*time to pull out the grinder cut out a piece, weld some nut and make a cover to bolt back on* *drop the tank* *did that on my '66 Vette when i was a young'n 40 yrs ago*
That was when i sold my '01 Forester. When the tank started leaking at the seam. Not the kind of project i wanted to tackle in my home garage by myself and without a lift.
I would replace everything on that tank while i have access to it. I know a lot of shops will do just what you ask them to do and nothing more, but when this much labor is involved its better to be safe then sorry.
It's illegal to do work the customer didn't authorize in most states. The best you can do is recommend and advise the customer that it would be best to do it while the tank is out because if another component around that spot fails again it will cost 3 times as much because they only have to pay for the labor for the fuel tank drop once instead of twice.
Chronic error code when I had a 2007 forester. Started at about 20k miles and would inevitably come back after clearing the code. Dealer said they couldn’t find what was wrong. They said I could do a smoke test of the gas tank but on my dime. I just lived with clearing the code every few months.
I also have a 2006 Forester and dealing with this exact same P0442 code. Replaced the gas cap and purge solenoid and still got the code. Will be doing a smoke test soon and I pray the leak isn't coming from the same location. I've seen two other videos on YT with the leak coming from the exact same spot as this one which isn't easily accessible. Seems to be common.
I'm sure you know to check the fuel filler neck. I've had three or four that get small rust holes where the attaching mount is welded onto the pipe. When you smoke the car, the smoke blows right across the top of the top of the tank and it makes it look like the tank is leaking. A filler neck is not a bad job to do compared to dropping the tank, and yes, I've done both.
Up north Subaru had a recall on the rear brake lines because of rust. To replace the driver side rear line the tank has to come out. I was told the book time for that repair was 45 minutes 🤪
I have an 06 Forester same code after a new purge valve then a new gas cap then a new charcoal canister. Shop kept guessing. I took to dealership mechanic said it's something on top of gas tank he pulled tank . It was the cut valve . Problem solved after many dollars spent
Good thing that the EVAp system is tied to the cruise control working. So you have to spend a fortune. To get it fixed so your cruise control can work, right.
It's a common thing in modern cars now to shut off convenience features when there's an emissions issue to nudge people into repairing them. I admit it can be annoying but there's a LOT of people out there who so incompetent when it comes to maintenance that they won't do anything until their car won't run anymore. So companies turn off air conditioning, or cruise control, or disable active safety features and hit them in a more visible, upfront way.
Sadly im going through this problem right now on my 07 fxt and I was hoping this video would show the process on how to drop the tank and replace those vents . Would you be able to make another video showing the work needed to replace the vents?
And this is exactly the reason that older cars with low miles are not always a good deal. Surprised also with this one, that for it driving such short distances or sitting so long, that the head gaskets havent gone yet too.
I have the same thing going on. Fuel pump and seal has been replaced already due to pump failure. I would hate to drop the tank right now but I may have to at some point (Cruise Control disables on my 06 Impreza because of the P0442 code) . Would be nice to see a tutorial, I mean if you maybe want to do a video of a tank drop/removal. A smoke test has been done and smoke definitely is leaking from the top somewhere.
I ran my smoke machine today in my evap system on my 2007 subaru Forester. Unfortunately, the smoke is coming from my rear sub frame out of the holes. It looks like my source of the leak will be a pain in the ass to get to. I hate the evap system, lol.
I have a question. I hope you can answer. What is test id#95 for evap test on a 2007 subaru forester? I ran an evap test with my ancel ad530 scanner, and test id#95 failed. Ancel said that the test id is specific to the subaruForester, so they don't know what it is specifically.
I took an angle grinder to the junkyard and attempted this on a Forester. Once you get an access hole cut in the body, things come to an abrupt halt because the rear differential subframe is blocking access to the tank. In other words that sounds good in theory, but that theory does not work this time!
My thought too. I’ve had static discharges from particles being sucked in and essentially being rubbed across the plastic in the nozzle, but that is in a dry climate and I’m sure where he is the humidity is much higher which prevents that kind of thing.
@mrsubaru1387 Please keep doing what you're doing! Your video PRODUCTION quality is leagues ahead of other TH-cam mechanics, and I live in my 03 fozi and your videos have given me priceless info before, now, and probably in the future about my vehicle. Should I ever need it, or even suggest it, would you take any requests for my generation of Subaru? For example, when the original 5mt in my car lost all gears, I replaced it with a ty757 I think. It came out of a 2005 Legacy GT. My dash/ECU in my 2003 needs a VSS signal from the trans for Speedo/trip/odo to function. Here-in-lies the problem: 2005 is when Subaru stopped using VSS for speed signal and started using the CANBUS (of which my 03 doesn't have) to gather ABS data and calculate vehicle speed then send that to the dash and ECU. Therefore, they removed the speed ring on 3rd gear for my trans, and my VSS sensor is useless in it. What do I do? Fork out $300 for an iWire VSSpro? Make one? Simulate the VSS signal somehow using the driveshaft and another sensor? Or do I explore new territory and crack the tcase open to mate a speed ring to 3rd gear? The gear IS still cut to accept the speed ring if I bought one of those which are cheap. Any input appreciated greatly I haven't had a working speedometer in 2 years.
@@mrphiscal it's so fucking expensive though. If I can figure out how they do the abs/VSS conversion, I'm great with electronics and my dad's an electrical engineer for Raytheon; I'm sure we could design one. But I've heard concerning issues about the iWire that it tends to NOT register 0mph, i.e it's always sending a pulse to the dash.
@MrSubaru1387 What would cause fuel smell inside the car only after filling up? Does not matter if i put 5 gallons or fill it all the way. I already replaced the fuel filler neck and fuel cap. Any advice will be great! Also, no CEL and only happens when i put gas into the car. Thanks.
Mine was a fuel pump gasket someone had replace the pump filter and didn’t crisscross the nuts down so it would only smell after you pump gas drove me crazy
Mr subaru, i have an 06 just like this, it throws this code as well which is why im here but its also (more serious issue) binding in sharp low speed turns. I put the fuse is to switch to 2wd to diagnose, and while it did help it still binds, and sometimes its just as bad as normal awd. Any help? Research has told me about the transfer clutch solenoid but theres no videos on changing it that i can find, and it seems like a helluva job
Yep gonna bet fuel cut valves on top the rank, break at the nipples, like my forester per comment on the first vid. :D . Hopefully not too rusty or dirty for you to get there.
My friend bought an '02 forester with around 102K in great condition. He keeps hearing a clunk in the front right when turning or going over bumps. I looked at both wheels and all the ball joints and bushings look good. There's a little play if I turn the wheel back and forth. Any suggestions?
Hi MrSubaru. I have a question/situation which I think youll end up being the only one able to help me or maybe a subscriber.. So I have a 2010 Outback 6speed. I have 187 000 miles and need to change my driveshaft. I need to change it because my rear U joint is getting bad.. However, it is almost impossible to find a Ujoint for a 2010 Outback.. found some for the front on ebay but nobody answers back if it fits rear or not. So, 3rd and 4th gen dont seem to share the same driveshaft to my knowledge so even though I find a ton of Ujoints for a 2009 and under outback, 2010 and up shows nothing.. So MrSubaru, what exactly do you do concerning Ujoints on a 4th gen and up Subaru Outbacks? Do you just replace the whole driveshaft? Subaru wants 1200$/cad for on and to my knowledge, aftermarkets are either good or bad and their still 850$/cad.. Id like to do only Ujoints because its so dumb to change a part for a simple 70$/cad (more or less) part.. I know its staked Ujoints but its totally replaceable anyways if you can get the parts... Thanks for any help.
Unfortunately on the newer ones a new or reman propshaft is needed. Haven’t rebuild a propshaft in the 2010+ vehicles. Have a video on replacing u-joints on older models here on TH-cam.
If that was my car I would get out the 90 degree highspeed and a whizz wheel and make a new access port to get at that tank. I know you can't, but if it was my car you could. It's not like you are going to take that car to the moon, it will be fine.
Love watching' your videos but........... You need to add a disclaimer or take this video down for using what sounds like an electric vacuum near a gas tank. Some DIY don't know how dangerous this practice is.
*time to pull out the grinder cut out a piece, weld some nut and make a cover to bolt back on*
*drop the tank* *did that on my '66 Vette when i was a young'n 40 yrs ago*
I've had this code for like 15 years on my Subaru.
That was when i sold my '01 Forester. When the tank started leaking at the seam. Not the kind of project i wanted to tackle in my home garage by myself and without a lift.
I would replace everything on that tank while i have access to it. I know a lot of shops will do just what you ask them to do and nothing more, but when this much labor is involved its better to be safe then sorry.
It's illegal to do work the customer didn't authorize in most states. The best you can do is recommend and advise the customer that it would be best to do it while the tank is out because if another component around that spot fails again it will cost 3 times as much because they only have to pay for the labor for the fuel tank drop once instead of twice.
Glad i am not the only one who struggles with evap codes
lol love how you have a specific set of pliers for the specific task
Pulling the fuel tank was my fear on my Outback during EVAP smoke check. Luckily I didn't need to.
Chronic error code when I had a 2007 forester. Started at about 20k miles and would inevitably come back after clearing the code. Dealer said they couldn’t find what was wrong. They said I could do a smoke test of the gas tank but on my dime. I just lived with clearing the code every few months.
I also have a 2006 Forester and dealing with this exact same P0442 code. Replaced the gas cap and purge solenoid and still got the code. Will be doing a smoke test soon and I pray the leak isn't coming from the same location. I've seen two other videos on YT with the leak coming from the exact same spot as this one which isn't easily accessible. Seems to be common.
I'm sure you know to check the fuel filler neck. I've had three or four that get small rust holes where the attaching mount is welded onto the pipe. When you smoke the car, the smoke blows right across the top of the top of the tank and it makes it look like the tank is leaking. A filler neck is not a bad job to do compared to dropping the tank, and yes, I've done both.
Up north Subaru had a recall on the rear brake lines because of rust. To replace the driver side rear line the tank has to come out. I was told the book time for that repair was 45 minutes 🤪
What I’ve always been told, book time is figured on a new car that’s never on the road.
I have an 06 Forester same code after a new purge valve then a new gas cap then a new charcoal canister. Shop kept guessing. I took to dealership mechanic said it's something on top of gas tank he pulled tank . It was the cut valve . Problem solved after many dollars spent
Difference between a technician and a parts swapper!
Good thing that the EVAp system is tied to the cruise control working. So you have to spend a fortune. To get it fixed so your cruise control can work, right.
Like 6hrs R&R on the fuel tank plus the parts involved.
It's a common thing in modern cars now to shut off convenience features when there's an emissions issue to nudge people into repairing them. I admit it can be annoying but there's a LOT of people out there who so incompetent when it comes to maintenance that they won't do anything until their car won't run anymore. So companies turn off air conditioning, or cruise control, or disable active safety features and hit them in a more visible, upfront way.
Sadly im going through this problem right now on my 07 fxt and I was hoping this video would show the process on how to drop the tank and replace those vents . Would you be able to make another video showing the work needed to replace the vents?
And this is exactly the reason that older cars with low miles are not always a good deal. Surprised also with this one, that for it driving such short distances or sitting so long, that the head gaskets havent gone yet too.
Luckily they're holding strong.
I have the same thing going on. Fuel pump and seal has been replaced already due to pump failure. I would hate to drop the tank right now but I may have to at some point (Cruise Control disables on my 06 Impreza because of the P0442 code) . Would be nice to see a tutorial, I mean if you maybe want to do a video of a tank drop/removal. A smoke test has been done and smoke definitely is leaking from the top somewhere.
The newer Forester fuel pump access hatch has been much improved. The orange rubber gasket is very expensive though. $150!
It is very possible that it was also leaking around the old gasket as well which you had eliminated 👍😎
I ran my smoke machine today in my evap system on my 2007 subaru Forester. Unfortunately, the smoke is coming from my rear sub frame out of the holes. It looks like my source of the leak will be a pain in the ass to get to. I hate the evap system, lol.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I have a question. I hope you can answer. What is test id#95 for evap test on a 2007 subaru forester? I ran an evap test with my ancel ad530 scanner, and test id#95 failed. Ancel said that the test id is specific to the subaruForester, so they don't know what it is specifically.
Has any cut access panels out there? Seems like it would be quicker than getting the tank loose
There's another YT channel with a video where he does that. I don't know how I feel about cutting metal so close to the gas tank.
I took an angle grinder to the junkyard and attempted this on a Forester. Once you get an access hole cut in the body, things come to an abrupt halt because the rear differential subframe is blocking access to the tank. In other words that sounds good in theory, but that theory does not work this time!
Was that an explosion proof vacuum cleaner for use in hazardous locations? Boom
Wondering the same thing! Dangerous situation!
My thought too. I’ve had static discharges from particles being sucked in and essentially being rubbed across the plastic in the nozzle, but that is in a dry climate and I’m sure where he is the humidity is much higher which prevents that kind of thing.
The electrical motor for the vacuum cleaner is the danger along with static discharge danger @@berenv
I've always hated diagnosing vehicles with a Leak Dection pump instead of a vent valve as it makes it way more complicated to diagnose.
yikes! have fun with that one!
@mrsubaru1387 Please keep doing what you're doing! Your video PRODUCTION quality is leagues ahead of other TH-cam mechanics, and I live in my 03 fozi and your videos have given me priceless info before, now, and probably in the future about my vehicle. Should I ever need it, or even suggest it, would you take any requests for my generation of Subaru? For example, when the original 5mt in my car lost all gears, I replaced it with a ty757 I think. It came out of a 2005 Legacy GT. My dash/ECU in my 2003 needs a VSS signal from the trans for Speedo/trip/odo to function. Here-in-lies the problem: 2005 is when Subaru stopped using VSS for speed signal and started using the CANBUS (of which my 03 doesn't have) to gather ABS data and calculate vehicle speed then send that to the dash and ECU. Therefore, they removed the speed ring on 3rd gear for my trans, and my VSS sensor is useless in it.
What do I do? Fork out $300 for an iWire VSSpro? Make one? Simulate the VSS signal somehow using the driveshaft and another sensor?
Or do I explore new territory and crack the tcase open to mate a speed ring to 3rd gear? The gear IS still cut to accept the speed ring if I bought one of those which are cheap.
Any input appreciated greatly I haven't had a working speedometer in 2 years.
I say go with iwire not need to reinvent the wheel.
@@mrphiscal it's so fucking expensive though. If I can figure out how they do the abs/VSS conversion, I'm great with electronics and my dad's an electrical engineer for Raytheon; I'm sure we could design one. But I've heard concerning issues about the iWire that it tends to NOT register 0mph, i.e it's always sending a pulse to the dash.
@MrSubaru1387 What would cause fuel smell inside the car only after filling up? Does not matter if i put 5 gallons or fill it all the way. I already replaced the fuel filler neck and fuel cap. Any advice will be great! Also, no CEL and only happens when i put gas into the car. Thanks.
Could be a number of gaskets and or lines leaking.
Mine was a fuel pump gasket someone had replace the pump filter and didn’t crisscross the nuts down so it would only smell after you pump gas drove me crazy
@@bobbyj1917 ok, great i will do exactly what MrSubaru1387 did in this video then!
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks!
Mr subaru, i have an 06 just like this, it throws this code as well which is why im here but its also (more serious issue) binding in sharp low speed turns. I put the fuse is to switch to 2wd to diagnose, and while it did help it still binds, and sometimes its just as bad as normal awd. Any help? Research has told me about the transfer clutch solenoid but theres no videos on changing it that i can find, and it seems like a helluva job
Yep gonna bet fuel cut valves on top the rank, break at the nipples, like my forester per comment on the first vid. :D . Hopefully not too rusty or dirty for you to get there.
Is this an exspensive repair?
Have you ever installed an HHO kit? If heard of ppl getting up to 37% better mpg and clean valves/pistons etc.
My friend bought an '02 forester with around 102K in great condition. He keeps hearing a clunk in the front right when turning or going over bumps. I looked at both wheels and all the ball joints and bushings look good. There's a little play if I turn the wheel back and forth. Any suggestions?
CV joint
Inner or outer tie rods?
@@berenv Both tight. I'm thinking strut mount...
Please !!! Now is NOT THE TIME to light up a Mc Happy Smoke!!!🤑
If only the opening was a wee bit larger😮
Yeah. I'd be making a custom service access at that point.
Hi MrSubaru. I have a question/situation which I think youll end up being the only one able to help me or maybe a subscriber..
So I have a 2010 Outback 6speed. I have 187 000 miles and need to change my driveshaft. I need to change it because my rear U joint is getting bad.. However, it is almost impossible to find a Ujoint for a 2010 Outback.. found some for the front on ebay but nobody answers back if it fits rear or not. So, 3rd and 4th gen dont seem to share the same driveshaft to my knowledge so even though I find a ton of Ujoints for a 2009 and under outback, 2010 and up shows nothing.. So MrSubaru, what exactly do you do concerning Ujoints on a 4th gen and up Subaru Outbacks? Do you just replace the whole driveshaft? Subaru wants 1200$/cad for on and to my knowledge, aftermarkets are either good or bad and their still 850$/cad..
Id like to do only Ujoints because its so dumb to change a part for a simple 70$/cad (more or less) part.. I know its staked Ujoints but its totally replaceable anyways if you can get the parts... Thanks for any help.
Having sent in a question or 2 myself. It would be nice to get an answer to them. Still waiting. Hope you have better luck than I do!
Unfortunately on the newer ones a new or reman propshaft is needed. Haven’t rebuild a propshaft in the 2010+ vehicles. Have a video on replacing u-joints on older models here on TH-cam.
Sorry about that. The comments get overwhelming sometimes and things slip through the cracks.
@@MrSubaru1387 Well that sucks that you cant repair the U joint like on older models.. Thank you for responding back though.
damn … rear subframe … liked everything so accessible for the engine bay … but the rear subframe…😢😢😢
If that was my car I would get out the 90 degree highspeed and a whizz wheel and make a new access port to get at that tank. I know you can't, but if it was my car you could.
It's not like you are going to take that car to the moon, it will be fine.
Typical engineering. No access to the components and barely enough access to the fuel pump. Way to go engineers.
Lucky Subaru has a panel to access the pump, a lot of cars do not & you have to cut the body...
Grrrrrrrrr don't get me started on 🤬 automotive engineers,
Love watching' your videos but........... You need to add a disclaimer or take this video down for using what sounds like an electric vacuum near a gas tank. Some DIY don't know how dangerous this practice is.
estoy buscando un motor para Subaru forester 2009, gracias
RIP
Running a vacuum... Really?
The car only has 33k on it....