Order the CORRECT steel wool from Amazon at the link(s) below. Homax Super Fine Grade 0000 Steel Wool (16 count) : amzn.to/3rbespY Rhodes Super Fine Grade 0000 Steel Wool (24 count): amzn.to/3cBY0Lc Original Bike Spirits, the best cleaner/polish I've ever found is here: amzn.to/3pLbw39 Amazon sells K-Cup coffee (Starbucks/Peets/Dunkin) for 50% LESS $$$!: amzn.to/2OcOcwY (I may receive a small commission from your purchase and I appreciate you helping support the channel. Thanks much! )
Thanks for video, you Need to wear gloves, steel wool hard on skin. When I worked in auto body collision repair shops we used 000 & 0000 to remove paint overspray from windshields and chrome parts!!! Thanks for trying to help educate people on using the proper tools when doing a specific job. The end results are a lot better.
I worked in a resto shop. We used the steel wool and dipped it in chrome polish while scrubbing it in. That would clean the rust and polish at the same time. Follow up with a soft cloth and you're ready to go.
I worked in hard-chrome-plating FOR YEARS, and unless you understand what is going on with chrome, what it is, how thick it is, what the base metal and pre-plating is...you don't understand what is happening WITH the chrome to 'fix it'. First, chrome (hexavalent chrome, especially) is HARD! I mean HARD...as in diamond-hard. As a result of it's hardness, and beauty, it was selected as a 'oxidation preventative' years ago...but NOT without 35-45 years of 'trial-and-failure' (by big manufacturers). As I said, it is hard...and most things that hard do one thing specifically...THEY DON'T BEND...THEY SHATTER! Secondly, just like paint...it can be plated 'too thick' or 'too thin'...as can be seen in 'cheap parts' that are 'chrome' but still rust overnight...versus a 1968 Buick bumper...that can survive DECADES without a single blemish. The general rule, the 'more-solid' the part, the thinner the plating can be...say, down to 0.0006" (six ten-thousandths)...like a sphere or a cube of steel. HOWEVER, a bumper, a handlebar set, etc., they CAN flex...but chrome is not only hard, but it is STRONG and resists bend...to a point. On old bumpers, some of that chrome was 4x thicker (0.002 or better thick)...as with 'good' handlebars. Think of chrome as 'a sheet of glass'...only it's a metal...in how it behaves. I'll skip the actual plating process, as it varies on what you are plating, what behavior properties you are trying to achieve, etc. and explain that WHEN CHROME RUSTS, it is indicative of it failing. Think of it as seeing an old 80's car, where the clearcoat finish on the hood gave up...and is flaking off. Only chrome can fail in a FEW WAYS. First, it starts with oxygen getting INTO THE PORES of the coating! Yes, just like 'human skin', chrome has pores...and is one thing you are trying to address when you control the coating thickness. Too thick for the application, wrong solution temperature during the process, and it will slough off just like skin off a water blister! Too thin...and, well, oxygen doesn't have a lot of trouble getting through that coating down to the base metal. NOW, you've got iron oxide (rust) cooking BENEATH your chrome! That 'rust ON your chrome' is actually RUST UNDER YOUR CHROME that is metastasizing THROUGH THE PORES OF THE CHROME, to the surface! Picture it, in its gory close-up detail...rusty steel BELOW your chrome, and the only place the oxidation can 'grow' to (oxidation grows as it gains more oxygen, to saturation, or when water allows for acids to form...as Hydrogen forms acids, once the oxygen is locked away in oxides). When you 'polish that chrome with fine steel wool' you are actually doing nothing but knocking that rust off at surface level, opening up a TON of previously-unopened pores in the chrome, and creating an environment where you've got more openings than before to let rust begin! YOU'RE MAKING THE PROBLEM WORSE! (and is why in 'the days of chrome', most were warned not to knock it down with steel wool, as it will 'only make it come back worse'). Now...what is the PROPER way to fix 'oxidizing chrome' (which isn't really the chrome oxidizing, but the base metal)? Either A: Have the part stripped and replated (PRICEY, but worth it, early on, if the part is valuable or rare...don't chase rust, REPLATE IT!)...secondly, if it is simply trying to beautify a $100 set of handlebars or a riser or a backrest frame...CONVERT THE RUST to a NON-OXIDIZING COMPOUND! How do you do this? About as simple, but completely different goal: First, clean the part in soapy water...Dawn dishwashing liquid works best (FYI: rust cannot happen in environments above a pH of 8.5, or below 6...not enough free, available oxygen...you can pack parts in grease, cosmoline, etc to keep oxygen out...but if you pack them in pure concentrated Liquid Ivory Soap (or other mild alkaline soap), they will NEVER rust)...use one of those 'scrubby blue sponges' (like for cleaning teflon pots-and-pans in your kitchen...they should say 'will not scratch your non-stick surfaces). These will clean surface rust, and remove A LITTLE of the oxidation between the pores at the microscopic level IN the chrome (again...picture rust as a dye poured onto a plate of broken glass...IT'S IN THE CRACKS AND PORES, as well as below it)... Now...if at all possible...take the part off and have a bin ready to COMPLETELY SUBMERGE the part...you're going to need some DISTILLED WATER and a simple chemical (often available at your hardware store, or you can order it online), called Phosphoric Acid (often found in pure form in a hardware store as 'Stump Dissolver'...check the label, purity is important). Mix outside in plenty of air, and don't breathe the fumes. You will mix 4-parts DISTILLED water (the 'distilled' is also VERY important...unless you want bad reactions or colored chrome when done) with 1-part Phosphoric acid...or 4-gallons water to 1-gallon Phosophoric Acid. ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER, not the other way around. Mix slowly, gently stir. Now...place the part into the room-temperature solution...and let it sit for 30-45 minutes. Use gloves (this isn't a really 'dangerous solution' to work with, but guard your eyes...safety is important, safety-wise, treat it like you would battery acid), and remove the part. All that 'red rust' should now be 'black'. That 'black' is no longer 'Iron Oxide', it is 'Iron Phosphate'...oxygen gone, Iron Phosphate is a kind of 'industrial primer' and prevents future rust! Now, simply rinse in clean water (hosepipe is fine) and use a soft cotton rag (or equivalent)...make sure 'hollow parts' are rinsed on the inside, as well...no need for coat-hangers pushing rags through, or anything...again, you've just turned your rust into primer! NOW...SEAL THE SURFACE OF THE PART! If you can, the best sealer you can use is what industrial operations use...some type of paint or enamel clear-coat (works well on engine parts). In the case of handlebars...you're just stuck with 'Mother's wax' or equivalent. DO NOT USE ABRASIVES on the part again...because with chrome, over time, the pores have somewhat sealed...and if you look at it under a microscope, there are 'rounded blisters' there now...abrasives KNOCK THEM OFF and open those pores! If you were going to do this, you SHOULD HAVE 'fine wool'd the part' before you started the phosphate bath process!!! After you are done, you have the 'cleanest, rust-free part' you are ever going to get (short of replating'...more 'fine wool' is going to cause you headaches and a failed process...it is NOT going to help you at this point! Hope this helps those needing 'real chrome repair answers'...feel free to copy it down...few know, or want to explain this information....and in today's world, where there are only 4-6 hard-platers left in the U.S., chances of you finding another 'old guy who used to know it and work it' to tell you...are about as slim as finding a home for $8,000, new (my first home I had built in 1975 for $17,000...a BRICK 3-bedroom ranch-style)...god, I'm old!
Does this method actually return the chrome to its original looking shiny chrome finish or do the rust spots remain but are just better preventing bigger rust issues in the future? Sorry if it's a dumb question, I'm new to the game.
I live in the land of rust. While 0000 is very fine, it will scratch or dull your chrome depending on the quality of the chrome and how hard you buff. Chrome polish or metal polish used with the steel wool works great and delays rust from returning. The chrome isn't rusting, it's the metal under the chrome.
Indeed. When chrome parts starts to rust, it means the chrome is pitted, and the rust WILL return. at this point you might as well paint the part, or just replace it.
Use aluminum foil and water, if it feels gritty change foil. Dip in water often. Aluminum can’t scratch chrome, but grit you feel can. Keep wax on it frequently after to stop new rust coming back.
Been doing this for decades . Now if you want that brand new car windscreen and wiper feeling, go at the windscreen with 0000 wool and dish washing liquid. I often do inside as well. It takes all the shit off that sometimes you cant see and restores the perfect wiper action as well as a visibly cleaner screen. Absolutely will not scratch or damage the glass and leaves it literally like glass
When I was a kid in the 50's I watched the local hot rod guys use 4 ott steel wool with Turtle Wax Chrome polish. It works great, the polish acts as a lube so the steel wool doesn't scratch the chrome so much and the rust remover in the polish kills the rust. Try it, you might like it.
Great tip! 0000 Steel wool does scratch thinner metal chrome-finished parts like fenders and chain guards. The chrome polish and steel wool combo work great in my experience as well!
@@Samuelfish2k Hey genius....yes it does, get a magnifing glass and you will see it. It does a good job but it does scratch it. Use dishsoap and water to speed up the process.
If you are working with a high quality chrome, steel wool (which is actually made of iron, not steel) will not scratch it. Cheaper quality chrome, yes.
Wow ! I must be really old, back in the day (70's) steel wool soap pads, then Turtle Wax ( to stop the rust coming back straight away) was the standard and all we had. Here l was thinking it would be a great new process. If rusty small parts, drop them in a tub of vinegar for a day or two, then watch the rust fall off with steel wool - works great on rusted hand tools ( old dudes tip).
Great method. I used to used steel wool on bicycle chrome when I was at school. Never dry always with a light oil rather than water. Works really well.
I soak in vinegar (treating any bad rust spots first with Hammerite), then use 0000 wool wet, then Brasso to rid metal contamination, a drill polisher with a pea sized amount of Mothers, degreaser on a rag to remove polish residue and then dry buff. Comes up so clear you can shave in it. =D
As for 0000 so far so good but the real improvement comes when you add a few drops of liquid soap to the wool and foam it up with some water, - the foam will act as a cushion, dissolving, cleaning and polishing all in 1.. No charge for this tip.
Looks like a great improvement, the problem is that the plating is compromised that’s why it rusted in the first place. You will probably find that the rust will reappear fairly quickly.
All chrome is somewhat porous. I tinker with old bikes. It’s amazing how rusty chromed steel can get hanging in a garage. The steel gets cold at night, then the humid air condenses on the surface, repeat thousands of times over the years. I think some people call them rust blooms. Mild acids works to remove rust too, but can also dissolve the chrome…….
Well it still looks better than a pile of rust, left untouched. I have done this more times than I can remember. It works. Of course sanding and re-chroming is better, but prob a hundred times cheaper to use steel wool.
It does help Guy, but it won’t necessarily be rusted again by tomorrow. Those handlebars I used in the video are untreated and have zero rust on them as of yesterday. (I was sorting through some junk and ran across them).
Great presentation and a very useful tip for those who just knew. 👌 Just one more tip- remember the steel wool can rust too, so always keep it safe and insulated for the next time you use it.
I keep my steel wool in Uranus. Dark, smelly and moist- is not how you want your steelwool to be. So I stuff mine in a Uranus plush toy with silicate crystals.
Cleaning rust off chrome plated steel like this only gives you temporary results. The rust returns within a few weeks. The reason: the chrome plating has become porous with tiny almost invisible holes. These let water through onto the underlying steel which rusts. This in turn flows through the holes onto the outer surface of the chrome plating. There is no simple solution to this problem. You can only slow the corrosion down a bit by covering the chrome plate with a thin layer of grease.
I was shopping online for a product to remove rust from the headlight rings on a 79 MGB when I came across this video. I had some OOOO pads on hand from a wood refinishing project. I went out in the rain and worked the chrome rings with the pads. The job was done in 5 minutes. Just remarkable. I spent days pondering how to deal with them. Thank you.
kbudrow1 Glad I could be of some help! Make sure you dry those rims well and put a bit of wax/polish on them for protection. Thanks for your comment, I hope you subscribe! -Tripp
I've always used 0000 steel wool and white polishing compound for the quickest and best results, learned this from my dad in the 1960s and he learned from his dad in the 1940s! 0000 steel wool dry is the absolute best to clean the outside of your car windows but if your windows have tint applied don't do this on the interior! Also the best product for cleaning oily residues (cigarette smoke, off gasses from vinyl/plastic, etc) off the interior of car windows is to use Magic Eraser then wipe dry with microfiber cloth then window cleaner with a final wipe with microfiber!
@@trippontwowheels Excellent video. Thanks boss u certainly saved my money. Need your advise bro. So after my bike handles are clean can I use a sliver spray. Will it elevate the looks even more?
A friend of mine did his rusty Cragars in high school with steel wool and liquid car polish. Got the rust off and really shined em up at the same time. About 1974.
This saved my day, I wanted already to throw away the chrome bicycle rims because there was some nasty rust on it. This worked nicely. At first I thought the rust had removed the chrome but the chrome was still there underneath the rust.
I've tried everything out there and bottom line is that you have to work at it. The steel wool trick soaked with WD40 or your favorite penetrating oil works great.
The finish will las a long time if you use water and dry it completely ( hair dryer or sun works) then follow it with wax or rattle can clear coat .. been doing this for years.. WD or other water displacing oils work but require more maintenance coats down the road if you ride in the rain.. especially on exhausts. Good video.
@@phredocassera2939 air dryer, good idea, keeping the rust at bay is the big trick, will follow some of your ideas + 0000 steel wool, brasso, WD40, all sound good
This works great. My dad taught me this back in the 70’s. He would dip the steel wool in car wax and when he was done cleaning, let it dry, wipe it off with a towel, then it was already waxed.
Very cool. My Dad taught me the exact same thing back in the 70’s! Our wax of choice back then was Turtle Wax. Thanks for your comment Jeff, I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
i use carnuba wax with 0000 steel wool. been doing it for 25-30 years. if chrome is real bad i do a quick acid chrome cleaner to knock off the heavy stuff so it doesnt add scratches or car wash soap with 0000. keep it wet, then rinse, dry and add carnuba wax to resist moisture.
@@trippontwowheels there's bronze wool available, supposed to be specially for glass, often to be found in janitorial supplies for that purpose. It's even more gentle than 0000, will take the rust off blued steel without removing the bluing.
Unfortunately, the FACT is that is DOES scratch glass and the chrome! Please cease conveying it doesn't; it does. Pure and simple. It's micronic in its etching, but it does. Try cleaning a spot of glass on your car - in the sun so you can see the window very clearly (at an angle) and use a glass spot remover. Most products are too gentle to do much damage but then try a different spot with the 0000 steel wool and LOOK again at an angle, you WILL see it scratches the surface ever so lightly and will create a circular style etching that the sun will pick up and you can see. The steel wool causes this so yes, it is invasive to the surface because duh, it's steel wool! The surface level is damaged and this is WHY you need to go behind 0000 steel wool and if on chrome, use a chrome polisher/cleaner and on glass, use a polisher or sealer. Any detail professional will tell you this is fact.
i used steel wool on my bicycle when I was eight years old, I'm 67 now. Wadding polish works well on light rust on handlebars,fork tubes, aircleaner covers, exhaust, etc.
I've used S.O.S pads for this since I was a kid. I used to fix up all the bikes I found abandoned or would buy them at yard sales for a few bucks. Clean, shine, and repaired them then sale them at the flea market. The s.o.s pads powdered soap acts like a polish and really makes crome look new again. A bit of wax keeps them from rusting again. I live where it is very humid and bare steel rust over night so I use wax or a coat of wd40.
The chrome is not as shiny after using the steel wool. You are putting a brushed finish on the handle bars. Doesn't have the mirror shin that it had before the steel wool. The bars do look good, but not as shiny as before. Use some WD 40 helps also.
You can first polish it with with compound and wipe clean. Then seal it with polyurethane clear coat gloss to also keep it from rusting. Works on plastic headlights too after wet sanding them
Every Idea that is on this site will work the constant item is 0000 steel wool. I have used everything with steel wool from Coca-Cola to chrome polish they all work! I restore Older Motorcycle's and have a constant supply of 0000 steel wool on hand as it works on Chrome, steel, Aluminium and can smooth out some paints as well. I can't live without it!
Most people believe Chrome does not "rust" (oxidation) but SURPRISE! - it does. Chrome oxidation (chrome oxide) is almost invisible because it's a very thin, almost transparent film or "network" that covers the entire surface of the chrome layer (similar process to what happens over time if you do not brush your teeth). It is easiest to see when you are using a Chrome Cleaner with a clean cloth, the oxidation is that foggy slightly tacky film you "polish" off to get that very nice smooth finish. Pay close attention next time you polish your bike. Next time you wash your bike and dry it, use just a damp cloth to "polish" (without chrome cleaner) the chrome, you will see the oxide film because the damp cloth will glaze the oxide layer slightly because it is trapping moisture from the cloth. It is this oxidation that, if left unchecked, will eventually perforate the chrome and finally, reach the steel below which will give you the classic "rust" (iron oxide) which is red (copper oxide for example is teal or green). Using 4X Steel wool will hurry-up the perforation process by giving the "Chrome Oxide" a larges surface area to work on and cut into the chrome layer to the steel. The end result will be MORE RUST! So, ask a high school science teacher, they will tell you this is fact.
@@JamesCouch777 absolutely because it will protect your finish but, that does not eliminate the need to clean and "polish" your chrome bits. But, it's clearly better that nothing at all.
brilliant. just bought my first bike and it needs some TLC. the exhaust and headlight housing have a fair bit of rust on them. ive confirmed theyre chrome because theyre magnetic. i will definitely be using this method on both item to clean the bike up. may use some chrome polish afterwards for that extra shine but will start with this. thanks for the quick easy video!!
If you want better results with less work, soak the part in a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water overnight. Rinse thoroughly, while wiping off the rust with a wet rag. Then rub the 0000 steel wool on it. The vinegar actually eats all the rust out of the pores and also the inside of the handle bars.
MGTOW SWORD Sounds like a good idea. Usually I just have light surface rust on larger chrome parts, too large to easily take off and soak in vinegar however. Thanks for your comment MGTOW! Hope you subscribe. -Tripp
@@trippontwowheels ......I found a solution for large parts that need rust work too. Say your cars roof is rusty. You lay a towel on the rusty area that you dunked in the 5050 solution. Then have a spray bottle with the 5050 in it, and just keep the towel wet. Overnight, you cover the wet towel in plastic so it doesn't dry out, then the next day, you can wipe off the rust.
Great job. Very clear. I did the same test on a 1970 moped I’m helping a buddy with! You are so correct a bit of water works a bit better! Again thank you
Great video, gonna give this a try on my old 1998 GT performer BMX, hopefully if dry stored the rust will stay away 🤞🏼 Big thank you from Portugal 🇵🇹 😊
As said before, best to use stainless steel wool or clean the surface very thoroughly. The particles of the steel wool will make it rust again really quickly!
Very cool. My grandma said use aluminium (aluminum for USA!) scrunched up. It was very common for 1950's furniture to rust (chrome was liberally applied badly then as a cheaper method than even painting steel- simply because economies of scale- nickel & chrome platers golden era)- and the cleaners of the time 1950s were a bit strong for the chrome. Also mylanta and things like that.
Thanks so much for this video. It's just what I needed to know, and for once in my life, I already have the "ingredients" here to shine up the slight rust on the bar stool legs I've been wanting to fix up. I liked and subscribed.
A friend of mine showed me some auto parts that he soaked in a mixture of molasses and water . Let the parts sit for a few days , turning them everyday in the container etc . I could not believe what i was looking at when he pulled them out and washed them off . They honest to God looked like NEW !!
great video. I use polish or Marvel oil on the steel wool. But the easier and faster way is to use plain old aluminum foil that you find in the kitchen. You can use WD40, marvel oil, polish, car wax. On it. Or use it dry to remove the heavy rust. Will not scratch the chrome.
What using fine steel wool near your starter relay, that stuff ignites really easy. On the other hand, if you get bored light that wool up, it looks cool on fire. I use 0000 and mothers polish.
No Body Yes! I use steel wool and a 9 volt battery to start camp fires often. I have Blue Magic polish and will try that with the 0000 soon. Thanks for your comment No Body, I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
Brillo or SOS pad with lots of water works as good or better. Dry and apply several coats of Turtle wax (or similar) after to prevent the rust coming back. learned that as a kid in the late 60's. Restored many a rusty bike and car using that on the chrome. The pad is nothing more than steel wool and the soap and water acts as both a lubricant and cleaner. Go on.... give it a go. :)
Thanks for the advice! Do you think this will be a problem if done too often? Would the steel wool rub off the layer of chrome and expose bare metal underneath over time?
Years ago a friend suggested WD40 and steel wool on pretty much any steel surface, chrome or bare steel. He builds some outrageous custom bicycles and many of which he doesn't paint or have plated but just preforms the "brushed" finish with steel wool and WD40, then every few months wipes the tubing down with WD40. Occasionally he uses Flood Penetrol to lock in the patina. If you are preparing a bare metal surface that you won't paint for up to a year, Penetrol will protect the surface from further rusting.
Problem with steel wool is that it leaves very small pieces of steel in the material. If not taken care of, you will have more steel come back. I used it on some stainless steel and later found rust coming out. Yup, due to microscopic pieces embedding in the SSL and causing rust. Once started, as will rust. So I went to copper wool or scrubbers. Is rust is bad, use super fine sandpaper. The grit does not rust. Yeah, I retired my steel wool.
Nice vid! Additional tip: Use water only with steel wool - If you are going to put a coat of paint after. Do not use WD40 or oil, else the paint will not stick well.
I have used Aluminum Foil from the Kitchen as well. Usually I will wet the rust with Simple Green as well, beware this can sometimes scratch the chrome but then you can buff the scratches out later.
top notch, works for me , make sure it NOT the rough stuff, finest steel wool is like magic, use it dry , like the tutorial man - suggests My 1956 Raleigh runabout and old VESPA exhaust pipes look perfect and a bit of polish or we 40 to keep it looking lovely. hats off to Larry
It all depends on the depth and severity of the rust really. But you are probably right concerning the muffler though. I didn't get a chance to touch it! I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
This is really helpful. My friend just bought her first motorcycle. 2004 883 Sportster and the chrome needs some TLC. Will be using this method. Thanks!
I've never seen this before but I had some steel wool and on my bicycle had some rust on the forks done what you suggested and absolutely amazed at the results, rust has gone fantastic tip thank you so much. Yes I would definitely recommend this tip 👍
When the rust has gone, I only ever clean and polish with CRC Long Life Spray on a little pad so as to use as little as possible. It not only protects but actually helps remove any initial rust. That way my heavily chromed motorcycle has never needed de-rusting again and looks fantastic still after 10 years use. Without that spray it would be a rust bucket by now. It is not cheap, but with a small pad you can avoid using very much of it, and once it dries it is not so oily as other alternatives.
Tripp On Two Wheels THANKS SO MUCH! My 2012 Yamaha Raider is starting to rust because we have almost 99% humidity everyday here in south Louisiana so even under my covered carport with a cover on it the fog rolls in every morning and gets to my bike so I have a ton of small patches of rust to work on getting off all over the bike so I will definitely try 0000 steel wool with WD-40 THANKS!
I use fine steel wool with chrome polish at the same time, wipe with Terry cloth towel will clean chrome and leaves a high luster and provides protection at the same time.
I am currently working on a small project on the side. My wife’s grandfather had bought a 1974 Honda XL 70 motorcycle. I am currently putting new tires, chain and using Red Kote in the Gastank. The rims are chrome they have a Lot of surface rust very lightly and I will try this wet SteelWool will check and see if it works. I will keep you posted thank you very much for the very nice simple video if you get a chance check out some of mine they pertain to heating and air-conditioning.
@@trippontwowheels I liked your video and definitely subscribed I will check out more of them when I get a chance I also post videos oh it takes time to edit as well I’ll let you know the outcome after using your technique thank you very much for getting back to me also have a great day. - Tony
@@trippontwowheels Great tip! I'll be sure to do that. It's a Yamaha XSR700, I bought it just before Christmas last year and have been loving riding it.
You can get scotch pads with the same grades as steel wool and they hold the polish better and you don’t have lots of little pieces of wire floating around the workshop ready to get into an engine or something like that
In the Marine Corps used to use Emery cloth and a little kerosene buff and coat Oil . We also use 0000 Steal Wool if we had some. Breech-block howitzers
Roland Lowhorn Sounds like that probably did the trick. If it’s good enough for howitzers it should be good enough for a bike, right? Thanks for your comment Roland, I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
![FASTEST and EASIEST way to (REMOVE RUST) from CHROME Bumpers on CLASSIC CARS [VW Beetle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/b5Z7SGOY2u8/mqdefault.jpg)
Order the CORRECT steel wool from Amazon at the link(s) below.
Homax Super Fine Grade 0000 Steel Wool (16 count) : amzn.to/3rbespY
Rhodes Super Fine Grade 0000 Steel Wool (24 count): amzn.to/3cBY0Lc
Original Bike Spirits, the best cleaner/polish I've ever found is here: amzn.to/3pLbw39
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(I may receive a small commission from your purchase and I appreciate you helping support the channel. Thanks much! )
junge ,,,,
das weiss doch jeder das lernt man doch schon als kind für seine fahrrad felgen
Thanks for video, you Need to wear gloves, steel wool hard on skin. When I worked in auto body collision repair shops we used 000 & 0000 to remove paint overspray from windshields and chrome parts!!! Thanks for trying to help educate people on using the proper tools when doing a specific job. The end results are a lot better.
Aluminum foil works great, when I was young chrome bikes were the thing, and mom always had aluminum foil around. Try it if you don’t believe me
@@gamebredduramax71 You are correct GameBred, tinfoil and water will even take brake dust off your car and rims.
What about knurled chrome handles...?
I worked in a resto shop. We used the steel wool and dipped it in chrome polish while scrubbing it in. That would clean the rust and polish at the same time. Follow up with a soft cloth and you're ready to go.
Good deal!
I worked in hard-chrome-plating FOR YEARS, and unless you understand what is going on with chrome, what it is, how thick it is, what the base metal and pre-plating is...you don't understand what is happening WITH the chrome to 'fix it'.
First, chrome (hexavalent chrome, especially) is HARD! I mean HARD...as in diamond-hard. As a result of it's hardness, and beauty, it was selected as a 'oxidation preventative' years ago...but NOT without 35-45 years of 'trial-and-failure' (by big manufacturers). As I said, it is hard...and most things that hard do one thing specifically...THEY DON'T BEND...THEY SHATTER! Secondly, just like paint...it can be plated 'too thick' or 'too thin'...as can be seen in 'cheap parts' that are 'chrome' but still rust overnight...versus a 1968 Buick bumper...that can survive DECADES without a single blemish. The general rule, the 'more-solid' the part, the thinner the plating can be...say, down to 0.0006" (six ten-thousandths)...like a sphere or a cube of steel. HOWEVER, a bumper, a handlebar set, etc., they CAN flex...but chrome is not only hard, but it is STRONG and resists bend...to a point. On old bumpers, some of that chrome was 4x thicker (0.002 or better thick)...as with 'good' handlebars. Think of chrome as 'a sheet of glass'...only it's a metal...in how it behaves.
I'll skip the actual plating process, as it varies on what you are plating, what behavior properties you are trying to achieve, etc. and explain that WHEN CHROME RUSTS, it is indicative of it failing. Think of it as seeing an old 80's car, where the clearcoat finish on the hood gave up...and is flaking off. Only chrome can fail in a FEW WAYS. First, it starts with oxygen getting INTO THE PORES of the coating! Yes, just like 'human skin', chrome has pores...and is one thing you are trying to address when you control the coating thickness. Too thick for the application, wrong solution temperature during the process, and it will slough off just like skin off a water blister! Too thin...and, well, oxygen doesn't have a lot of trouble getting through that coating down to the base metal. NOW, you've got iron oxide (rust) cooking BENEATH your chrome! That 'rust ON your chrome' is actually RUST UNDER YOUR CHROME that is metastasizing THROUGH THE PORES OF THE CHROME, to the surface! Picture it, in its gory close-up detail...rusty steel BELOW your chrome, and the only place the oxidation can 'grow' to (oxidation grows as it gains more oxygen, to saturation, or when water allows for acids to form...as Hydrogen forms acids, once the oxygen is locked away in oxides). When you 'polish that chrome with fine steel wool' you are actually doing nothing but knocking that rust off at surface level, opening up a TON of previously-unopened pores in the chrome, and creating an environment where you've got more openings than before to let rust begin! YOU'RE MAKING THE PROBLEM WORSE! (and is why in 'the days of chrome', most were warned not to knock it down with steel wool, as it will 'only make it come back worse').
Now...what is the PROPER way to fix 'oxidizing chrome' (which isn't really the chrome oxidizing, but the base metal)? Either A: Have the part stripped and replated (PRICEY, but worth it, early on, if the part is valuable or rare...don't chase rust, REPLATE IT!)...secondly, if it is simply trying to beautify a $100 set of handlebars or a riser or a backrest frame...CONVERT THE RUST to a NON-OXIDIZING COMPOUND! How do you do this? About as simple, but completely different goal:
First, clean the part in soapy water...Dawn dishwashing liquid works best (FYI: rust cannot happen in environments above a pH of 8.5, or below 6...not enough free, available oxygen...you can pack parts in grease, cosmoline, etc to keep oxygen out...but if you pack them in pure concentrated Liquid Ivory Soap (or other mild alkaline soap), they will NEVER rust)...use one of those 'scrubby blue sponges' (like for cleaning teflon pots-and-pans in your kitchen...they should say 'will not scratch your non-stick surfaces). These will clean surface rust, and remove A LITTLE of the oxidation between the pores at the microscopic level IN the chrome (again...picture rust as a dye poured onto a plate of broken glass...IT'S IN THE CRACKS AND PORES, as well as below it)...
Now...if at all possible...take the part off and have a bin ready to COMPLETELY SUBMERGE the part...you're going to need some DISTILLED WATER and a simple chemical (often available at your hardware store, or you can order it online), called Phosphoric Acid (often found in pure form in a hardware store as 'Stump Dissolver'...check the label, purity is important). Mix outside in plenty of air, and don't breathe the fumes. You will mix 4-parts DISTILLED water (the 'distilled' is also VERY important...unless you want bad reactions or colored chrome when done) with 1-part Phosphoric acid...or 4-gallons water to 1-gallon Phosophoric Acid. ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER, not the other way around. Mix slowly, gently stir. Now...place the part into the room-temperature solution...and let it sit for 30-45 minutes. Use gloves (this isn't a really 'dangerous solution' to work with, but guard your eyes...safety is important, safety-wise, treat it like you would battery acid), and remove the part. All that 'red rust' should now be 'black'. That 'black' is no longer 'Iron Oxide', it is 'Iron Phosphate'...oxygen gone, Iron Phosphate is a kind of 'industrial primer' and prevents future rust! Now, simply rinse in clean water (hosepipe is fine) and use a soft cotton rag (or equivalent)...make sure 'hollow parts' are rinsed on the inside, as well...no need for coat-hangers pushing rags through, or anything...again, you've just turned your rust into primer!
NOW...SEAL THE SURFACE OF THE PART! If you can, the best sealer you can use is what industrial operations use...some type of paint or enamel clear-coat (works well on engine parts). In the case of handlebars...you're just stuck with 'Mother's wax' or equivalent. DO NOT USE ABRASIVES on the part again...because with chrome, over time, the pores have somewhat sealed...and if you look at it under a microscope, there are 'rounded blisters' there now...abrasives KNOCK THEM OFF and open those pores! If you were going to do this, you SHOULD HAVE 'fine wool'd the part' before you started the phosphate bath process!!! After you are done, you have the 'cleanest, rust-free part' you are ever going to get (short of replating'...more 'fine wool' is going to cause you headaches and a failed process...it is NOT going to help you at this point!
Hope this helps those needing 'real chrome repair answers'...feel free to copy it down...few know, or want to explain this information....and in today's world, where there are only 4-6 hard-platers left in the U.S., chances of you finding another 'old guy who used to know it and work it' to tell you...are about as slim as finding a home for $8,000, new (my first home I had built in 1975 for $17,000...a BRICK 3-bedroom ranch-style)...god, I'm old!
Very true.
😂 very true 😂
I can't believe I read it all. 👍👍👍
Does this method actually return the chrome to its original looking shiny chrome finish or do the rust spots remain but are just better preventing bigger rust issues in the future? Sorry if it's a dumb question, I'm new to the game.
I really appreciate the time you took to respond. Thanks. 👍👍
I live in the land of rust. While 0000 is very fine, it will scratch or dull your chrome depending on the quality of the chrome and how hard you buff. Chrome polish or metal polish used with the steel wool works great and delays rust from returning. The chrome isn't rusting, it's the metal under the chrome.
Indeed. When chrome parts starts to rust, it means the chrome is pitted, and the rust WILL return. at this point you might as well paint the part, or just replace it.
How can I get small scratches out made by 0000 steel wool? Do you always want to use polish with the wool? Will that stop the scratching.
Use aluminum foil and water, if it feels gritty change foil. Dip in water often. Aluminum can’t scratch chrome, but grit you feel can. Keep wax on it frequently after to stop new rust coming back.
Been doing this for decades .
Now if you want that brand new car windscreen and wiper feeling, go at the windscreen with 0000 wool and dish washing liquid.
I often do inside as well.
It takes all the shit off that sometimes you cant see and restores the perfect wiper action as well as a visibly cleaner screen.
Absolutely will not scratch or damage the glass and leaves it literally like glass
going to do this on my bmw now lol!
Good to know thank you
When I was a kid in the 50's I watched the local hot rod guys use 4 ott steel wool with Turtle Wax Chrome polish. It works great, the polish acts as a lube so the steel wool doesn't scratch the chrome so much and the rust remover in the polish kills the rust. Try it, you might like it.
The steel wool doesn’t scratch chrome, genius.
Great tip! 0000 Steel wool does scratch thinner metal chrome-finished parts like fenders and chain guards. The chrome polish and steel wool combo work great in my experience as well!
@@Samuelfish2k Hey genius....yes it does, get a magnifing glass and you will see it. It does a good job but it does scratch it. Use dishsoap and water to speed up the process.
If you are working with a high quality chrome, steel wool (which is actually made of iron, not steel) will not scratch it. Cheaper quality chrome, yes.
Gah Lee ,, Dats ah Ancient Boomer 🤭😁🤣
Steel wool leaves... steel wool fibers which rusts like crazy. I use bronze wool on the T top on my boat. 👍👍👍
What difference would the bronze make ?
@@sean.g4516
Any fiber thats left after using it wont rust and so it doesn't leave a wiggly rust marks.
@@LordDarthBaiter should it b fine or medium wool
@@sean.g4516
I use medium with a some Flitz polish.
Wow ! I must be really old, back in the day (70's) steel wool soap pads, then Turtle Wax ( to stop the rust coming back straight away) was the standard and all we had. Here l was thinking it would be a great new process. If rusty small parts, drop them in a tub of vinegar for a day or two, then watch the rust fall off with steel wool - works great on rusted hand tools ( old dudes tip).
Luke Wise Thanks Luke! I’m probably not too far behind you age wise. Hope you subscribe my friend! -Tripp
What about bolts and hardware ?
What kind of vinegar
Thanks for your valuable advise sir. We youngsters need it...
Apple cider vinegar works best
Great method. I used to used steel wool on bicycle chrome when I was at school. Never dry always with a light oil rather than water. Works really well.
Ya, I use WD40 or some other penetrating oil.
same here. Usually WD40.
I soak in vinegar (treating any bad rust spots first with Hammerite), then use 0000 wool wet, then Brasso to rid metal contamination, a drill polisher with a pea sized amount of Mothers, degreaser on a rag to remove polish residue and then dry buff. Comes up so clear you can shave in it. =D
As for 0000 so far so good but the real improvement comes when you add a few drops of liquid soap to the wool and foam it up with some water, - the foam will act as a cushion, dissolving, cleaning and polishing all in 1..
No charge for this tip.
Mr. Wint Sounds like another good idea. Thanks for your comment Mr. Wint, I hope you subscribe! -Tripp
Essentially a brill-O pad ?? Or however its spelled
Some steel wool pads come pre-soaped.
Looks like a great improvement, the problem is that the plating is compromised that’s why it rusted in the first place. You will probably find that the rust will reappear fairly quickly.
Good point and that is why applying wax to your chrome is a good idea esp once it has shown some pitting.
Yup! Steel particles are now embedded in the pits in the chrome... rust magnet!
All chrome is somewhat porous. I tinker with old bikes. It’s amazing how rusty chromed steel can get hanging in a garage. The steel gets cold at night, then the humid air condenses on the surface, repeat thousands of times over the years. I think some people call them rust blooms.
Mild acids works to remove rust too, but can also dissolve the chrome…….
@@mplsmark222 Vinegar and salt
Well it still looks better than a pile of rust, left untouched. I have done this more times than I can remember. It works. Of course sanding and re-chroming is better, but prob a hundred times cheaper to use steel wool.
It works , but you need to mention that some type of preservative, wax or sealant now needs to be applied or else it will be rusted again by tomorrow.
It does help Guy, but it won’t necessarily be rusted again by tomorrow. Those handlebars I used in the video are untreated and have zero rust on them as of yesterday. (I was sorting through some junk and ran across them).
Yeah, for sure have to seal it
May be not tomorrow but not long. Fish oil would probably work.
Great presentation and a very useful tip for those who just knew. 👌
Just one more tip- remember the steel wool can rust too, so always keep it safe and insulated for the next time you use it.
Thanks! Very true and good tip.
just keep it dry, and I will not rust, in a plastic bag.
I keep my steel wool in Uranus. Dark, smelly and moist- is not how you want your steelwool to be. So I stuff mine in a Uranus plush toy with silicate crystals.
I just purchased a motorcycle from someone who lives right near the beach, so I'm glad I found this video 👍
Vvvreally
Cleaning rust off chrome plated steel like this only gives you temporary results. The rust returns within a few weeks. The reason: the chrome plating has become porous with tiny almost invisible holes. These let water through onto the underlying steel which rusts. This in turn flows through the holes onto the outer surface of the chrome plating. There is no simple solution to this problem. You can only slow the corrosion down a bit by covering the chrome plate with a thin layer of grease.
The simple solution is simply, ceramic coating once every 5 years
@@EazyDuz18 What's a "ceramic coating"? This is the first I've heard of this. What brands offer this stuff? I'd be much obliged.
@@mikethespike7579 Just go on any detailing website and have a look. Plenty of brands around. I Use SiRamik Lustrous Plus.
I was shopping online for a product to remove rust from the headlight rings on a 79 MGB when I came across this video. I had some OOOO pads on hand from a wood refinishing project. I went out in the rain and worked the chrome rings with the pads. The job was done in 5 minutes. Just remarkable. I spent days pondering how to deal with them. Thank you.
kbudrow1 Glad I could be of some help! Make sure you dry those rims well and put a bit of wax/polish on them for protection. Thanks for your comment, I hope you subscribe! -Tripp
I like to use WD-40 with the OOOO steel wool
same here , for years too ;-)
WD40 plus super fine metal sand paper
It's a none secret, thanks for bringing it back. For many years I've used windex and fine grade steelwool.
I've always used 0000 steel wool and white polishing compound for the quickest and best results, learned this from my dad in the 1960s and he learned from his dad in the 1940s! 0000 steel wool dry is the absolute best to clean the outside of your car windows but if your windows have tint applied don't do this on the interior! Also the best product for cleaning oily residues (cigarette smoke, off gasses from vinyl/plastic, etc) off the interior of car windows is to use Magic Eraser then wipe dry with microfiber cloth then window cleaner with a final wipe with microfiber!
Steel Wool #0000 - Got it, thanks so much!
It really does work well. Been using it for years along with little chrome polish.
BRONZE WOOL!!!!! Try it!!
@@trippontwowheels Excellent video. Thanks boss u certainly saved my money. Need your advise bro.
So after my bike handles are clean can I use a sliver spray. Will it elevate the looks even more?
@@MultiJoe11111 no. Don't spray. It will give it a dull look.
@@MultiJoe11111 use wax, leaves protective coating reduce rust from coming back
Steel wool & WD40 👍🏻
A friend of mine did his rusty Cragars in high school with steel wool and liquid car polish. Got the rust off and really shined em up at the same time. About 1974.
This saved my day, I wanted already to throw away the chrome bicycle rims because there was some nasty rust on it. This worked nicely. At first I thought the rust had removed the chrome but the chrome was still there underneath the rust.
You are not kidding me, mate. 📛
I've tried everything out there and bottom line is that you have to work at it. The steel wool trick soaked with WD40 or your favorite penetrating oil works great.
I add WD40 as well. Works great.
The finish will las a long time if you use water and dry it completely ( hair dryer or sun works) then follow it with wax or rattle can clear coat .. been doing this for years.. WD or other water displacing oils work but require more maintenance coats down the road if you ride in the rain.. especially on exhausts.
Good video.
Phredo Cassera Great idea Phredo! Thanks for your comment, hope you subscribe. -Tripp
@@phredocassera2939 air dryer, good idea, keeping the rust at bay is the big trick, will follow some of your ideas + 0000 steel wool, brasso, WD40, all sound good
@@phredocassera2939 is wax over clear coat considered overkill?
This works great. My dad taught me this back in the 70’s. He would dip the steel wool in car wax and when he was done cleaning, let it dry, wipe it off with a towel, then it was already waxed.
Very cool. My Dad taught me the exact same thing back in the 70’s! Our wax of choice back then was Turtle Wax. Thanks for your comment Jeff, I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
I use a similar process but I use tinfoil instead of steel wool.
For everyone: Try aluminum foil. You will surprized!
Alimunum foil and a can of COKE. You’re welcome.✌🏼
Might be a useful trick if you don't have anything better laying around, but it certainly isn't as effective as steel wool or a steel sponge.
This is what I've used, and it works great. Plus it doesn't scratch up the chrome like steel wool will.
i use carnuba wax with 0000 steel wool. been doing it for 25-30 years. if chrome is real bad i do a quick acid chrome cleaner to knock off the heavy stuff so it doesnt add scratches or car wash soap with 0000. keep it wet, then rinse, dry and add carnuba wax to resist moisture.
new sub here. Dan from Gears & Gadgets sent me!
Thanks much and welcome! Be sure to thank Dan for me when you get the chance. -Tripp
Ichiban! When you gonna make some more videos? I got my badass motorcycle only half done cause you quit making vids!
I would have to agree with the
WD-40 suggestion .
As would I. Thanks for your comment Richard!
You can clean your car’s windshield with it to to get rid of tar, insect stuff, grime etc, and it doesn’t scratch the glass.
Great tip. I’d heard of that before but never tried it. Thanx Anthony, hope you subscribe. -Tripp
@@trippontwowheels there's bronze wool available, supposed to be specially for glass, often to be found in janitorial supplies for that purpose. It's even more gentle than 0000, will take the rust off blued steel without removing the bluing.
Unfortunately, the FACT is that is DOES scratch glass and the chrome! Please cease conveying it doesn't; it does. Pure and simple. It's micronic in its etching, but it does. Try cleaning a spot of glass on your car - in the sun so you can see the window very clearly (at an angle) and use a glass spot remover. Most products are too gentle to do much damage but then try a different spot with the 0000 steel wool and LOOK again at an angle, you WILL see it scratches the surface ever so lightly and will create a circular style etching that the sun will pick up and you can see. The steel wool causes this so yes, it is invasive to the surface because duh, it's steel wool! The surface level is damaged and this is WHY you need to go behind 0000 steel wool and if on chrome, use a chrome polisher/cleaner and on glass, use a polisher or sealer. Any detail professional will tell you this is fact.
@@Dave-bu6bc Duly noted. Thank You!
i used steel wool on my bicycle when I was eight years old, I'm 67 now. Wadding polish works well on light rust on handlebars,fork tubes, aircleaner covers, exhaust, etc.
Can’t believe how simple this is!
Try he simplest! How’ve you been Sam?
Thank you for hearing my prayer & making this video!! You're absolutely the Rust Whisperer🤘😎
Thanks much WormHole!
Vinegar and a ball of aluminum foil... learned that back in the 70s.
Interesting combination. Sounds like it should work well. Thanks Diogenes! -Tripp
Janet Jackson Yes! Very correct Janet. Thanks for your comment, I hope you subscribe! -Tripp
Yes, it is magic!
Hi Richard! Hope you subscribe. -Tripp
Vinegar and solvol make your blue pipes turn bronze.
I've used S.O.S pads for this since I was a kid. I used to fix up all the bikes I found abandoned or would buy them at yard sales for a few bucks. Clean, shine, and repaired them then sale them at the flea market. The s.o.s pads powdered soap acts like a polish and really makes crome look new again. A bit of wax keeps them from rusting again. I live where it is very humid and bare steel rust over night so I use wax or a coat of wd40.
Steel wool and WD40, which helps stop the rust returning. Really helps in damp climates.
Tried the #0000 on my motorbike. The result was fantastic, not only on chrome but also on aluminium . Thanks for the tip.
The chrome is not as shiny after using the steel wool. You are putting a brushed finish on the handle bars. Doesn't have the mirror shin that it had before the steel wool. The bars do look good, but not as shiny as before. Use some WD 40 helps also.
Agreed leave a bush like finish
Then buff with compound to restore gloss
Yeah, just for over them with a Chrome Polish creme!..
You can first polish it with with compound and wipe clean. Then seal it with polyurethane clear coat gloss to also keep it from rusting. Works on plastic headlights too after wet sanding them
I love how you really dumbed this down. even a fool like me can follow your simplistic directions, thank you
You’re welcome…. I think. 🙂
no yeah, seriously thank you!!
Good to see old technology brought back. I still use the blue magic afterwards because it gives even more shine plus leaves a protective layer.
You do exactly what I do Wooley! Sometimes old technology isn’t so bad. Thanks for commenting. I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
Every Idea that is on this site will work the constant item is 0000 steel wool. I have used everything with steel wool from Coca-Cola to chrome polish they all work! I restore Older Motorcycle's and have a constant supply of 0000 steel wool on hand as it works on Chrome, steel, Aluminium and can smooth out some paints as well. I can't live without it!
Most people believe Chrome does not "rust" (oxidation) but SURPRISE! - it does. Chrome oxidation (chrome oxide) is almost invisible because it's a very thin, almost transparent film or "network" that covers the entire surface of the chrome layer (similar process to what happens over time if you do not brush your teeth). It is easiest to see when you are using a Chrome Cleaner with a clean cloth, the oxidation is that foggy slightly tacky film you "polish" off to get that very nice smooth finish. Pay close attention next time you polish your bike. Next time you wash your bike and dry it, use just a damp cloth to "polish" (without chrome cleaner) the chrome, you will see the oxide film because the damp cloth will glaze the oxide layer slightly because it is trapping moisture from the cloth. It is this oxidation that, if left unchecked, will eventually perforate the chrome and finally, reach the steel below which will give you the classic "rust" (iron oxide) which is red (copper oxide for example is teal or green). Using 4X Steel wool will hurry-up the perforation process by giving the "Chrome Oxide" a larges surface area to work on and cut into the chrome layer to the steel. The end result will be MORE RUST! So, ask a high school science teacher, they will tell you this is fact.
Gee Whizz Great explanation Gee Whiz! Thanks for your comment, hope you subscribe. -Tripp
You can use a ceramic sealer when you are done, like F11
@@JamesCouch777 absolutely because it will protect your finish but, that does not eliminate the need to clean and "polish" your chrome bits. But, it's clearly better that nothing at all.
Do not use it on your headers - polishes and oils residue are the "contaminates" that cause heat discolour
brilliant. just bought my first bike and it needs some TLC. the exhaust and headlight housing have a fair bit of rust on them. ive confirmed theyre chrome because theyre magnetic. i will definitely be using this method on both item to clean the bike up. may use some chrome polish afterwards for that extra shine but will start with this. thanks for the quick easy video!!
If you want better results with less work, soak the part in a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water overnight. Rinse thoroughly, while wiping off the rust with a wet rag. Then rub the 0000 steel wool on it. The vinegar actually eats all the rust out of the pores and also the inside of the handle bars.
MGTOW SWORD Sounds like a good idea. Usually I just have light surface rust on larger chrome parts, too large to easily take off and soak in vinegar however. Thanks for your comment MGTOW! Hope you subscribe. -Tripp
@@trippontwowheels ......I found a solution for large parts that need rust work too.
Say your cars roof is rusty. You lay a towel on the rusty area that you dunked in the 5050 solution. Then have a spray bottle with the 5050 in it, and just keep the towel wet.
Overnight, you cover the wet towel in plastic so it doesn't dry out, then the next day, you can wipe off the rust.
Great job. Very clear. I did the same test on a 1970 moped I’m helping a buddy with! You are so correct a bit of water works a bit better! Again thank you
Great video, gonna give this a try on my old 1998 GT performer BMX, hopefully if dry stored the rust will stay away 🤞🏼
Big thank you from Portugal 🇵🇹 😊
This works great! As a second step, on a bumper, I’ve used carnauba wax and steel wool. Then wipe off with damp a rag. Looked like new.
Thanks I just got some chrome wheels that have a little surface rust. I’ll be doing this tomorrow!
Hit them with a little polish when you’re done. Thanks for your comment, hope you subscribe. -Tripp
That's amazing, and you didn't fake anything. Thank you for sharing. 😊
You’re welcome Kaizo! Thanks for your comment.
As said before, best to use stainless steel wool or clean the surface very thoroughly. The particles of the steel wool will make it rust again really quickly!
Thanks a lot, i find a Honda in a garage from the years 1970, abadoned forr 15 years a lot of rust, trye the steelwoll tomorrow
And how long does it take for the rust to come back? If the chrome layer is damaged, the only thing that really helps is re-chrome plating.
Spray a coat of clear lacquer after scrubbing.
If stored outside,. You Will need going over IT pretty often, ..inside Storage, you'll be fine..
00000 fine steal wool and rubbing compound. Works great. Coats to prevent more rust. Works on pits too. Then wax. Done
We always used SOS pads. They work amazing (they are steel wool too)
It never hurts to throw a little soap in on the deal (SOS)! Thanks Pastor Rick, I hope you subscribe! -Tripp
No scratch?
@@tristanchamp5617 nope
Awesome tip. I use raw cow’s tong peel to polish chrome. It works amazingly. But it has to be old cow’s tong.
Very cool. My grandma said use aluminium (aluminum for USA!) scrunched up. It was very common for 1950's furniture to rust (chrome was liberally applied badly then as a cheaper method than even painting steel- simply because economies of scale- nickel & chrome platers golden era)- and the cleaners of the time 1950s were a bit strong for the chrome.
Also mylanta and things like that.
Thanks so much for this video. It's just what I needed to know, and for once in my life, I already have the "ingredients" here to shine up the slight rust on the bar stool legs I've been wanting to fix up. I liked and subscribed.
Thanks Toaster! Much appreciated.
@@trippontwowheels You bet!
Amazing difference. I'll definitely try that with water. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Here in Lower Alabama, we call 0000, 4-aught steel wool :) :) :) Great video Tripp.
We call it the same thing here in South Texas. Thanks for your kind words Chris; hope you subscribe! -Tripp
Same here in PA.
A friend of mine showed me some auto parts that he soaked in a mixture of molasses and water . Let the parts sit for a few days , turning them everyday in the container etc . I could not believe what i was looking at when he pulled them out and washed them off . They honest to God looked like NEW !!
You can tell that after rubbing it became more blurry though. Any suggestions in order to avoid blurring the metal?
Wipe metal down with wd-40 then use the steel wool. Then wipe/buff dry.
great video. I use polish or Marvel oil on the steel wool. But the easier and faster way is to use plain old aluminum foil that you find in the kitchen. You can use WD40, marvel oil, polish, car wax. On it. Or use it dry to remove the heavy rust. Will not scratch the chrome.
What using fine steel wool near your starter relay, that stuff ignites really easy.
On the other hand, if you get bored light that wool up, it looks cool on fire.
I use 0000 and mothers polish.
No Body Yes! I use steel wool and a 9 volt battery to start camp fires often. I have Blue Magic polish and will try that with the 0000 soon. Thanks for your comment No Body, I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
Thank you for this idea. I tried this on a rusted bathroom fixture I was going to throw out. Worked like a charm. Looks brand new now.
Glad I could be of help! Good luck and hope you subscribe. -Tripp
Brillo or SOS pad with lots of water works as good or better. Dry and apply several coats of Turtle wax (or similar) after to prevent the rust coming back. learned that as a kid in the late 60's. Restored many a rusty bike and car using that on the chrome. The pad is nothing more than steel wool and the soap and water acts as both a lubricant and cleaner. Go on.... give it a go. :)
Thanks for the advice!
Do you think this will be a problem if done too often? Would the steel wool rub off the layer of chrome and expose bare metal underneath over time?
No. The 0000 will not scratch or wear away good quality chrome.
@@trippontwowheels thank you! :)
Years ago a friend suggested WD40 and steel wool on pretty much any steel surface, chrome or bare steel. He builds some outrageous custom bicycles and many of which he doesn't paint or have plated but just preforms the "brushed" finish with steel wool and WD40, then every few months wipes the tubing down with WD40. Occasionally he uses Flood Penetrol to lock in the patina. If you are preparing a bare metal surface that you won't paint for up to a year, Penetrol will protect the surface from further rusting.
That's the first I've heard of Penetrol Travis, thanks for letting me knwo about it. Glad to get your comment and I hope you subscribe! -Tripp
Problem with steel wool is that it leaves very small pieces of steel in the material. If not taken care of, you will have more steel come back. I used it on some stainless steel and later found rust coming out. Yup, due to microscopic pieces embedding in the SSL and causing rust. Once started, as will rust. So I went to copper wool or scrubbers. Is rust is bad, use super fine sandpaper. The grit does not rust. Yeah, I retired my steel wool.
That seems to make good sense. Will look into that. Thanks for your comment George, I hope you and your 10,000 closest friends subscribe! -Tripp
Nice vid!
Additional tip: Use water only with steel wool - If you are going to put a coat of paint after. Do not use WD40 or oil, else the paint will not stick well.
Makes good sense to me! Thanks!
@@trippontwowheels You're welcome sir.
Very helpful, thanks. If using coarser grades of steel wool it's advisable to wear gloves. Best regards from Englandd
Thanks for the info! Where in England are you from Geoff? Hope you subscribe. -Tripp
TIP - wear gloves! Steel wool in the skin is no fun.
Good tip. And you’re right, it ain’t no fun!
I have used Aluminum Foil from the Kitchen as well. Usually I will wet the rust with Simple Green as well, beware this can sometimes scratch the chrome but then you can buff the scratches out later.
That wasn't even rusted. Try that on pitted chrome
Nothing works on pitted chrome if it’s pitted to the metal. Nothing will except new chrome. All rust removers only take off surface rust.
thank you so much for this! bought a bag of steel wool immediately after watching the video!
Use coke a cola with it... Less rubbing... Comes up a treat.
You’re absolutely right noname! Thanks for your comment, hope you subscribe. -Tripp
top notch, works for me , make sure it NOT the rough stuff, finest steel wool is like magic, use it dry , like the tutorial man - suggests
My 1956 Raleigh runabout and old VESPA exhaust pipes look perfect and a bit of polish or we 40 to keep it looking lovely. hats off to Larry
There is no way that is going to take off some of the rust he showed in his lead in.
It all depends on the depth and severity of the rust really. But you are probably right concerning the muffler though. I didn't get a chance to touch it! I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
Thanks!
Steel wool scratches. Try brass wool.
Thanks for the demonstration. This will save me some time and money on my winter restoration project.
Glad I could help!
Amazing tip, just saved me hours and allowed me to restore something that will save me a lot of money, thank you!
You’re welcome Scott!
This is really helpful. My friend just bought her first motorcycle. 2004 883 Sportster and the chrome needs some TLC. Will be using this method. Thanks!
I've never seen this before but I had some steel wool and on my bicycle had some rust on the forks done what you suggested and absolutely amazed at the results, rust has gone fantastic tip thank you so much. Yes I would definitely recommend this tip 👍
Thanks Hugh!
When the rust has gone, I only ever clean and polish with CRC Long Life Spray on a little pad so as to use as little as possible. It not only protects but actually helps remove any initial rust. That way my heavily chromed motorcycle has never needed de-rusting again and looks fantastic still after 10 years use. Without that spray it would be a rust bucket by now. It is not cheap, but with a small pad you can avoid using very much of it, and once it dries it is not so oily as other alternatives.
Tripp On Two Wheels THANKS SO MUCH! My 2012 Yamaha Raider is starting to rust because we have almost 99% humidity everyday here in south Louisiana so even under my covered carport with a cover on it the fog rolls in every morning and gets to my bike so I have a ton of small patches of rust to work on getting off all over the bike so I will definitely try 0000 steel wool with WD-40 THANKS!
thanks.. i bought brillo pads today and they worked just fine on my wheels on my truck,,
Be careful, you really need gauge 0000. Brillo pads are more course than that. You really need to avoid anything greater than 0000.
I use fine steel wool with chrome polish at the same time, wipe with Terry cloth towel will clean chrome and leaves a high luster and provides protection at the same time.
Sounds like a great method. I usually do the same. Thanks for your comment wraithsrath! Hope you subscribe. -Tripp
Worked excellent on my old 1957 bicycle! Thanks!
Glad to hear the video was of help! Thanks for letting me know. Hope you subscribe Cowtownbaldie. -Tripp
I am currently working on a small project on the side. My wife’s grandfather had bought a 1974 Honda XL 70 motorcycle. I am currently putting new tires, chain and using Red Kote in the Gastank. The rims are chrome they have a Lot of surface rust very lightly and I will try this wet SteelWool will check and see if it works. I will keep you posted thank you very much for the very nice simple video if you get a chance check out some of mine they pertain to heating and air-conditioning.
Thanks HVAC! Ride safe and hope you subscribe. -Tripp
@@trippontwowheels I liked your video and definitely subscribed I will check out more of them when I get a chance I also post videos oh it takes time to edit as well I’ll let you know the outcome after using your technique thank you very much for getting back to me also have a great day. - Tony
Great video!! My motorbike looks so nice and shiny now, there was rust on the forks and header pipes. Your method fixed it right up 👌🏻✨
Glad to know it worked for you. Be sure to throw a little polish on it to keep it in good shape. What kind of bike do you have?
@@trippontwowheels Great tip! I'll be sure to do that. It's a Yamaha XSR700, I bought it just before Christmas last year and have been loving riding it.
You just saved me from buying those fancy chrome polish products. Awesome job, thanks for sharing this 👍👍👍
You should still polish the chrome after you’re finished. Helps protect it against future rusting.
great video and very good presenting style, nothing complicated just nice and easy.
Thanks Ian!
Heck yeah! I'm adding it to my shopping list.
I’ve always used the steel wool along with a polish. Blue magic is what I use stuff works miracles.
You can get scotch pads with the same grades as steel wool and they hold the polish better and you don’t have lots of little pieces of wire floating around the workshop ready to get into an engine or something like that
Gr8 video. I've always use aluminium foil, but Ur way looks a lot easier cheers
Thank you friend. All the way from the UK. :-)
In the Marine Corps used to use Emery cloth and a little kerosene buff and coat Oil . We also use 0000 Steal Wool if we had some. Breech-block howitzers
Roland Lowhorn Sounds like that probably did the trick. If it’s good enough for howitzers it should be good enough for a bike, right? Thanks for your comment Roland, I hope you subscribe. -Tripp
I used the steel wool with Fast Orange hand cleaner works good too