I'm a DIY, I fix only my own cars and sometimes help out friends, so I don't claim to be an expert. In my humble opinion symptoms mentioned in in this video are misleading. You are discussing symptoms that come form other bad parts that potentially can be damaged because of CV joint grease, but those parts can go bad because of different reasons. And if you don't remove CV boot completely as in the video that grease will not be thrown around as shown in video, dirt will be local around the CV boot, not in wheel well. CV grease might get into wheel bearing, but should not get to brake pads. Suspension components can get wet and dirty from bad shock absorbers or if brake fluid is leaking - it also can lead to lubricated brakes or bad wheel bearing. During visual inspection of the CV boot, it is obvious - grease comes CV boot or something else. I disagree with the statement at 1:16 "If your vehicle is experiencing any of these symptoms, you might be having problem with one of your CV axles, in witch case you should go online and order new CV axle". You should do proper diagnosis, before ordering or changing any parts. Assuming you have a loud wheel bearing that is heating up because of CV grease destroyed it - changing CV-axle will not fix wheel bearing, and it will keep being loud and heating up. It is much cheaper and safer to bring car to a shop, then diagnosing by yourself using "parts change" method - changing parts until all parts have been changed including the damaged part. 1:13 smoke coming from the brakes - inspect the brakes, don't order new CV axle. If there is burning smell, it will come from something else(brakes or wheel bearing). Bad wheel bearing is louder in high speeds. Sticky brakes produce more heat than bad bearing, sometimes brakes can heat up until brake discs are glowing red. Axle grease can damage breaks or bearing, but bad CV axle itself produces very little excess heat, no matter how bad it is. Sticky steering - usually it is something else in suspension or steering system. Car pulls to one side while braking - also something else. Flat tire, problem in brake system (might be greasy brake discs, worn out pads, damaged brake caliper, damaged brake lines e.t.c.), steering system or wheel alignment. Bad CV axle will not pull car to one side while braking nor will it while driving. In my experience best way to tell if CV axle needs replacement is a distinct clicking sound (klik, klik, klik) in low speeds and sharp turns, the worse CV joint the louder sound(Diagnose in a parking lot). Sometimes it clicks only while driving in reverse, but in all cases when diagnosing car need to be fully turned to one side. How often it clicks is directly related to speed, there might be constant 5 to 10 clicks during the time when affected wheel makes full 360 degree turn, the faster you go the faster it clicks. You can tell which side is bad by how often it clicks, because outer wheel turns faster then inner. And of course visual inspection of the boot. When driving straight usually bad CV joint has no symptoms, if axle clicks when driving straight - the car will stop soon. Engine and gear box will work normally, but car will not move, if in gear - broken axle inner part will turn but the axle outer part and wheel will not.
this is really random but my boot on the drivers side of my honda was ripped for several months and last month it snapped in half along with the lower ball joint. I got it replaced then exactly 2 weeks later the exact same thing happened on the other side. I wish the shop would of told me that I would of been better off replacing both at same time instead of having to waste all this money on towing and what not.
I learned pretty quickly that boot spins on all wheels drive cars. The clamp hit my turbo oil pressure hose and rip it causing some serious oil leak. As a result of that the boot clamp got loose and grease splashed everywhere. This incident happened 100 miles away from my city so I had to get my car towed. It was a sort of ok day. Not my favorite.
Replaced my Subaru Crosstrek xv CV axle and not long after the replacement I hear sounds what sounds like a fly wheel. Then I have issues that mimic brake issues. Brake pedal is soft in park and clicks the clutch. I take it to the Goodyear several times asking to check the brakes a couple of times. They don't say anything about the brakes the last two times. This time they say it's not the brakes even though one is at 50% even though one has been replaced recently. This time I take it in today and they say it's the transmission. Really tired of cars . Tired of the impossible maintenance on them
I hear nightmares with aftermarket components especially for Toyota 4 runners. Help me understand how yours deal with that attitude out here. Thank you.
I've had nothing but bad luck with aftermarket cv axles in a 325xi e46, boots rip prematurely (within months). Went through 3 pairs (1 set a year basically). I've tried from several companies, and seems oem is the only way to go with this vehicle.
My Honda CRV's front left wheel shakes somewhat at higher speeds. When you let off the accelerator, it stops. Could this also be because of a bad CV joint?
+64samsky We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
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I'm a DIY, I fix only my own cars and sometimes help out friends, so I don't claim to be an expert. In my humble opinion symptoms mentioned in in this video are misleading.
You are discussing symptoms that come form other bad parts that potentially can be damaged because of CV joint grease, but those parts can go bad because of different reasons. And if you don't remove CV boot completely as in the video that grease will not be thrown around as shown in video, dirt will be local around the CV boot, not in wheel well. CV grease might get into wheel bearing, but should not get to brake pads. Suspension components can get wet and dirty from bad shock absorbers or if brake fluid is leaking - it also can lead to lubricated brakes or bad wheel bearing. During visual inspection of the CV boot, it is obvious - grease comes CV boot or something else.
I disagree with the statement at 1:16 "If your vehicle is experiencing any of these symptoms, you might be having problem with one of your CV axles, in witch case you should go online and order new CV axle". You should do proper diagnosis, before ordering or changing any parts.
Assuming you have a loud wheel bearing that is heating up because of CV grease destroyed it - changing CV-axle will not fix wheel bearing, and it will keep being loud and heating up.
It is much cheaper and safer to bring car to a shop, then diagnosing by yourself using "parts change" method - changing parts until all parts have been changed including the damaged part.
1:13 smoke coming from the brakes - inspect the brakes, don't order new CV axle. If there is burning smell, it will come from something else(brakes or wheel bearing). Bad wheel bearing is louder in high speeds. Sticky brakes produce more heat than bad bearing, sometimes brakes can heat up until brake discs are glowing red. Axle grease can damage breaks or bearing, but bad CV axle itself produces very little excess heat, no matter how bad it is.
Sticky steering - usually it is something else in suspension or steering system.
Car pulls to one side while braking - also something else. Flat tire, problem in brake system (might be greasy brake discs, worn out pads, damaged brake caliper, damaged brake lines e.t.c.), steering system or wheel alignment. Bad CV axle will not pull car to one side while braking nor will it while driving.
In my experience best way to tell if CV axle needs replacement is a distinct clicking sound (klik, klik, klik) in low speeds and sharp turns, the worse CV joint the louder sound(Diagnose in a parking lot). Sometimes it clicks only while driving in reverse, but in all cases when diagnosing car need to be fully turned to one side. How often it clicks is directly related to speed, there might be constant 5 to 10 clicks during the time when affected wheel makes full 360 degree turn, the faster you go the faster it clicks. You can tell which side is bad by how often it clicks, because outer wheel turns faster then inner. And of course visual inspection of the boot.
When driving straight usually bad CV joint has no symptoms, if axle clicks when driving straight - the car will stop soon. Engine and gear box will work normally, but car will not move, if in gear - broken axle inner part will turn but the axle outer part and wheel will not.
this is really random but my boot on the drivers side of my honda was ripped for several months and last month it snapped in half along with the lower ball joint. I got it replaced then exactly 2 weeks later the exact same thing happened on the other side. I wish the shop would of told me that I would of been better off replacing both at same time instead of having to waste all this money on towing and what not.
Oops! I’ve been driving for like two years with a split boot! Ok I’m ordering one today from 1A
I learned pretty quickly that boot spins on all wheels drive cars. The clamp hit my turbo oil pressure hose and rip it causing some serious oil leak. As a result of that the boot clamp got loose and grease splashed everywhere. This incident happened 100 miles away from my city so I had to get my car towed.
It was a sort of ok day. Not my favorite.
I believe i cooked my abs sensor from CV area getting hot or something. I believe its related.
Great video
Replaced my Subaru Crosstrek xv CV axle and not long after the replacement I hear sounds what sounds like a fly wheel. Then I have issues that mimic brake issues. Brake pedal is soft in park and clicks the clutch. I take it to the Goodyear several times asking to check the brakes a couple of times. They don't say anything about the brakes the last two times. This time they say it's not the brakes even though one is at 50% even though one has been replaced recently. This time I take it in today and they say it's the transmission. Really tired of cars . Tired of the impossible maintenance on them
I hear nightmares with aftermarket components especially for Toyota 4 runners. Help me understand how yours deal with that attitude out here. Thank you.
Thanks for all your videos .
I've had nothing but bad luck with aftermarket cv axles in a 325xi e46, boots rip prematurely (within months). Went through 3 pairs (1 set a year basically). I've tried from several companies, and seems oem is the only way to go with this vehicle.
if the CV boot is ripped, can it simple be replaced or does the full axle have to be replaced?
The profile camera angle is offends me. What went into that decision? Cool. 2 cameras.
The Italians have a boot repair kit ,you should carry that..
My Honda CRV's front left wheel shakes somewhat at higher speeds. When you let off the accelerator, it stops. Could this also be because of a bad CV joint?
+64samsky We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Nice video 👍🏽
Please could anyone be able to tell me where the purge valve solenoid is located on a Peugeot 307cc petrol 1.6 thanks
Great video!
The problem is most aftermarket axles, including the ones sold by 1A auto, are absolute junk. Horrid China surprise with poor quality neoprene boots.
Another perfect example why CarID is not to be trusted
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