Long LIVE... your water heater! How to extend it's life

Mongo pick up a water heater from good buddy. He say it old and probably junk.
Mongo don't think so!
Couple things to do to keep your water heater running a long time.
NOTES: Before doing this, on an electric unit, make sure it is turned OFF (make sure the breaker is off).
STEP 1. Make sure the water supply valve to the water heater is OFF.
STEP 2. DOUBLE check that power and water flow is OFF.
STEP 3. Connect a garden hose to the bottom drain valve on the water heater tank.
- IF your tank is in the basement - The hose should direct water to a sump pump or into a large container with a pump inside it, to pump the water up and out of the house.
- IF your tank is on the ground level or higher - the hose should direct water out of the house at least 15feet.
STEP 4. Open a hot water faucet in the house, the tub is best. This releases any pressure in the system and allows a place for air to flow out of during the refiling process.
STEP 5. Open the drain valve on the bottom of the tank. Let the water completely drain from the tank.
- May need an adjustable wrench to open the valve - like in this case
- IF you did not shut off the water supply valve the tank will never drain. Fresh water will continue to refill the tank.
- IF you did not turn the breaker for the water heater off. The tank will automatically turn on the heating elements, with no water inside to heat this could damage the heating elements and cause steam when the water is turned back on.
STEP 6. As the water drains look at the condition of the water. What color is it? Is there any sediment?
- NOTE: As sediment builds up at the base of the tank with will cause advanced corrosion. This is why it is important to drain the tank every few years.
STEP 7. When the tank is fully drained. Turn the supply water back on for 1 Minute, then shut the valve back off. This is plenty of time to flush out any remaining sediment at the bottom of the tank.
- NOTE: Monitor what comes out the end of the hose. DEPENDING on your water you may need to do this for more than 1 minute. (usually until the water coming out is clean/clear)
STEP 8. Inspect the sacrificial ROD. Sometimes called a corrosion rod, Anode rode, Anode etc... These are about 4ft long (solid or linked rod) pick your favorite.
- NOTE: The life of this rod is dependent on your water and how much you use hot water. It is designed to corrode instead of your tank corroding. If your water is very hard (lost of minerals in it) this rod will corrode faster and need to be replaced more often. Which means these maintenance steps will need to be done more often. Once removed, it will be up to you and how often you will inspect it, to determine if it will need replacing or not. In this case the rod is either GONE or broke off and in the bottom of the tank. This one needs replaced.
- TOOLS: you will need a BIG impact gun or large ratchet with a long handle. A 1 and 1/16 inch socket and maybe a large strap wrench. This is usually VERY tight.
- To reassemble, apply some pipe thread sealant to the rod threads and tighten the rod as tight as you can.
STEP 9. Close the drain valve and open the supply valve to refill the tank.
- Monitor the tub faucet for steady water coming out, this indicates the tank is full.
- Monitor the drain valve for leaks and the rod threads for leaks. SOMETIMES, the drain valve may leak after this. (due to sediment blocking or failed valve) In which case drain the tank again. Operate the valve to remove any stuck sediment or replace the valve.
STEP 10. Once the tank is full and no leaks. Turn the tub faucet off and turn the breaker back on for the tank. Now it is safe to reheat water.
Hopefully this video help you if you ever need to maintain or inspect your water heater.
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MONGO THANK YOU!!!

[@jimprior5700]

I noticed how he turned the adjustable wrench, it didn't make me feel confident in his ability

[@mongofix]

what if it was twisted?