Ford 6.0 powerstroke vibration. Runs rough???
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2024
- We installed a used engine for a friend that we did not know the history. It went in a modified lifted Excursion and had a terrible vibration even while cranking. After much trial and error and pulling our hair out. I had a epiphany on my commute home. Nothing is bent but the balance is off. Had to find out what. Called him up and said let me tear it down again. Trust me. We got it this time. This is our case study and a confirmed fix.
You just saved my life! Was about to tear into my 04 for the exact same issue. Grabbed a coffee, sat down.... stumbled onto your vid, made the same repair. Your on my Christmas list now. Thank you..
You’re a good mechanic, I enjoy seeing fellow mechanics using the proper terminology for even the most basic things. Truly sets the good techs apart from the mediocre ones. 👨🏻🔧👌🏾
Hi Ron, your video has helped me today, thanks for being awesome, may 6.0s be with you.
Thank you. I have felt those type of solid or grounded out vibrations. This one was rotational and shook the vehicle from the weight being off. It's fixed now. But I bet your input is more common and will probably be more helpful overall to people. Also missing front turbo bolts cause that type and they are more likely around 16-1800 Rpms
For the 6.0 no start question. Your first test was valid. No icp with 85% ipr. Do you have base oil pressure? Check your oil filter. I show this in other videos. Air leak test it. H-pops on 05 and up are rare but possible. The two I've had that were bad leaked oil through the turbo supply Line when I pressure tested the system. That may have been a coincidence or a kinda valid find.
DieselTechRon hello
I have a 03 6.0 f350. Ipr is showing 38%, never exceeding 60% under normal driving. Truck is running rough, loss of power
Great job Ron, just the another day in the life of a diesel tech!
Ron was such a incredible diesel tech!
Ron, I've always considered your Powerstroke knowledge as up there with anyone out there. I remember when the 6.0 first came out they said never to remove the hub from the crank as its balanced from the factory and can never go back on exactly how it should be. I remember seeing that the crank must be replaced if it is ever removed. Besides something like this, have you ever seen an issue with R&R'ing the hub? They seemed pretty adamant about not removing it regardless of getting it indexed back on the way it was. As you know, not being allowed to remove the hub turns a camshaft replacement (say if a bad lifter wiped it out) into removing the engine, flipping it over, and removing the crank so you can get the cam out.
Banshee365 all of us remove that hub. Also, Ford has updated that procedure. They now "give us permission" to remove the hub, and even provide torque specs. The torque spec is 74 ft/lbs
Good job. This is one job I will let the shop do
Mostly because of the size and weight of of the transmission. I am up for any job good second or third year apprentice can do. It's good to know your limitations. I don't mind the Petty labor intensive re&re type jobs. My next job is to replace the blend door actuator it seems the air conditioning works when this inexpensive yet labor intensive part is not seized. Any good videos on this. The job will be in an 08 6.4 F350. Looks like the passenger airbag has to be removed 🎉😢
wow I wish I was half the tech you are ron. great find!
The reason they tell you not to remove that adapter is because it is Machined as an assembly with the crankshaft preventing runout.
plenty of people remove them and re-attach with no issues whatsoever. I did to remove the gear on the crank (it was destroyed)
RIP dieseltechRON
Yeah it was really sad seeing his son talk about what happened to him.
I saw that warning in oasis too... after I removed it lol, I've do the same thing but I also check runout with a dial indicator when gunning them down I've done it a few times because when i do lower end/piston repairs it doesn't fit on my stand properly without removing it, and haven't had a problem
I had my 07 6.0 crank no start. 7 Icp and 84.7 ipr when cranking.I unplugged the icp sensor and cranked it and had 1510 icp and 66 ipr, but same result no start. I have it apart thinking the stc went out ut to my surprise it was already replaced with the new one. The ipr screen was clean. How do I check to see if the oil pump is working? Any other suggestions
awesome thanks man! keep doing your thing i watch ur videos
That's why ford would not allow tecs to touch the inner bolts, to the point of replacing cranks if you needed to. Caution tourk to yeald bolts also do not re use.
Diesel tech Ron, shouldn't the rear main seal get some sort of oil or assembly grease to make sure the seal doesn't leak? All the rear mains I've installed I always used oil or grease and the ones that I didn't do this to they leaked right away
Appreciate your efforts
What is the part called that you removed at 3:30? I'm trying to get my rear cover off to install new lifters and that part on the end of the crankshaft WILL NOT come off. Looks like the one in this video is just easily pulled off with a pry tool.
Ron, I have an '06 F-350 w/ 6.0, engine starts fine, runs fine at normal acceleration. But when its under a load or quick acceleraton it skips and misses terriable, but no smoke from the exhaust. I changed the injectors and dummy plugs approx. 6 months ago and its been great up until now. Whats your thoughts ?
Didn’t the crank flange come off and go back on the in the exact same position or is it just me? I noticed the hole in the flange came off and went back on at the 3:00 position.
ron, i was wondering if this video of the 6.0 vibration from the flywheel adapter being installed improperly will pertain to a 2008 6.4 powerstroke also, i just installed a rebuilt engine and it has the same vibration and we know that the flywheeel adaper was removed from the crankshaft,thanks
I wonder why the adapter was in the wrong position? There really is no reason to remove it unless some machine shop took it off for an overhaul.
It is the adapter on back f crank it’s not timed right need to find number one and put the mark at 10:00
61 ft lbs. everything has a torque valve but 5 ugga duggas will be good lol
You can tell just by the sound, it was fixed at the end.
Hey Ron I dont know if it helps i own a 6.0L and had alot of work done also. but anyway. The exhaust i have is straight pipe and believe it or not.. it made my rig Vibrate too i was all worried and rolled under my truck and could not figure it out. then one day i jumped on the back of the bed of my rig and the noise would go and come.. fixed the pipe from the turbo down all the way out the side rear wheel. :} hope im helpful for useful ideas!
You might have just save me a whole lot of stress I will have mine tore back down and let you know if this is what is up with it. Same symptoms new motor shakes between 800 to 1200 rpm thanks for posting
James Green That is just the driver alert feature on Lariat models. 😆
ron i have a 2003 6.0. that will not start. ficmv 12.5 ficmmv 48.0 cranking. ficm sync yes, IPR 85 cranking, icp desired 1663 icp actual 331 at best. did an air leak test and heard gurgling sound until i forced ipr closed then no noise at all. cranked with icp unplugged and ipr went to 57 but still no start. has a new hpop within the last three months. any suggestions would be awesome. is there any way to test hpop to see if its good or bad.
Any idea if a 6.4 has the same potential issues? I put in a rebuild and it shakes just like this.
Did you see the flexplate wobble?
I had this happen to me 2 years ago with a customer from another shop. We did everystep he did until the end. After 3 weeks we ran out of time with the customer. I wish I still had is phone number.
🙏🙏🙏
Does anyone know if you can interchange a different adopter with a different crank ? I have one that has a slight grove in it from someone trying to to take it off with air hammer ???
Yes u can but u have to time it right
Put it
On number one and dot on 10:00
It don't come easy.
My 04 6.0 vibrates only between 55 and 65mph right after overdrive engages . Driving at 70mph runs fine. Any idea?
Mines doing the same did u find out what it was
@@XxXJaMaIcAnXxX it was an injector .
@@vanagolandjua8913 thanks for the reply, it cleared up for a couple seconds on mine and then started doing it again I pulled codes and got injector #3 circuit low . Now I need to find a good injector