the "easier way" to remove the center snap ring is to just push between the grooved posts against the snap ring edge with a suitable punch or screw driver, each in turn (12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 o'clock or what ever order works for the open end of your ring), push in, lever up, move on to the next opening. you may need to use a second tool to keep the whole ring from rotating in the grooves by holding the still restrained in the groove end. far less likely to chip or break off the grooved post compared to trying to twist/pull it out with pliers.
I first tried doing both ends of the spring clip and then gave up and just worked on one end with a screwdriver working it around and it came out perfectly... when I put it back together I did the same in reverse.
Thank you, thank you, Thank you. with out this walk through I would have been screwed. this is the first clutch replacement I have ever done and could not have done it with out this\
Those spring plates are the death of primaries!! I'm glad I replaced mine as well. I believe I went with Belt Drives company tho. A customer at our shop tried using the Barnett and his shit sounded super squeaky and grindy. We redid the clutch hun assembly with the belt drive and everything was smoothe as butter.
My bikes so loud I can only hear the pipes, I think I do hear a squeak sometimes if I ride along a brick wall but then I also got a pinging sound that I will have to try fix someday hopefully it only costs a penny
Only tip I've got, is get two 4"long 1/4×20 bolts cut heads off insert top &bottom, helps hold gasket & alignment of p- cover as you push it on& lift chain up on to tension shoe! Good job,did you get any noise from transmission?
Forget that Barnett clutch! I just fixed my old HD 2006 Sportster clutch and spring plate problem and my bike runs better and shifts better than ever. How did I do it? I removed the pack of plates, found the exploded spring plate took it apart and kept the two steel rings. I then lined the two up as perfect as possible. I offset the original holes for the brass fasteners leaving no see-through holes. I took my MIG welder and tacked the smaller of the holes on both sides with about 4-second bursts tacking the two steel plates together. I then took my angle grinder and dressed them. I filed the ears so that the plate would mount like the single steel plates nice and smooth. I filed the inside of the basket where the damage was left by the original plate making sure no plates would hang up on any of the damaged areas. I then installed new fibers with the old steels making sure that the welded pressure plate would be "past" the damaged area when installed. I then put it all back together and took it for a ride. WOW! It shifted smoother quieter and grabbed very well. It was a trial thing and am I glad I did it. The only size difference is the thin springs that were between the two steel rings are gone and it had no effect... except a GREAT shifting clutch now!
May Joe, I explained it as thoroughly as I possibly could so anyone could do it. I don't know how to do a video, sorry! Maybe someone will read this and make one!
I have changed clutches on my bike several times for one reason or another I was attempting to put in the heavy duty Barnett diaphragm , it was so hard to tighten down I was worried I was going to break the pressure plate so I stopped any ideas
@@joshnorwich8761 , hey man , I had the Barnett heavy duty spring in mine with the stock clutch hub and where the snap ring grove is, it snapped the outer edge off. So of course the spring pops out and your screwed, I went with the carbon fiber clutches and the medium duty spring. The motor is the Hammer performance 1275, probably over 100 horse. But if you mess with hammer per. Contact me first. I have some things to share about them.... Replace the backing plate and hub with after market performance parts, and I went with the high dollar clutch cable ,over 150.$ with the nylon internal. Man it's so easy, unreal. Well good luck
love the video.have a question got the Barnett extra plate clutch,half of the steel plates have dimples in them and other half are plain what goes in first plain or dimpledafter you put friction plate in first
try calling the seller and ask. They could send you completely wrong parts. One of the clutch plates that said it would fit my bike was so big it wouldn't even fit in the thing at all. I was lucky it was way different because if it was almost the same and would of fit I'd be running that setup for a while haha the plates I got just all had a sloped edge on one side of them. looked all over online and best I could find is have them all pointing out or all pointing in but all pointing in the same direction. Not sure if its true or even matters but thats what I've been riding this year
Not a worry. Wharped steel plates are ran thru a press dimpling and now not wharped. If any are thicker install first thicker . They disperse heat better.
It's not reused because the brass rivets can shear off inside of the primary and chew up the basket where the clutch plates sit. Basically, it'll break everything in there when the spring plate fails.
If that's your video Valley Rider obviously you can do it and doing it smart like I watched the other video and what a joke have a great day thanks for the reply peace
@ 5:10 You completely F@#$ed this clutch install bye mistakenly slipping a stock fiber friction plate back into your clutch basket? And it looks like you went with a Barnett Kevlar friction kit! Congratulations You get the "BONER AWARD"
@@valleyrider8620 I will make a video the next time I swap a XL clutch out and I'll introduce a genius product. It's called a "wire tie" that way do it yourselfers can be commentated to tie all of the old parts together before installing any of the new parts. Then they don't make the same mistake that you made in your install.
Wade N., Sounds like your bike had a Barnett Extra-Plate kit. That kit comes with a “damper seat” and a “damper spring” that are installed in the clutch basket before any friction plates or steel plates are installed. My understanding is that the damper seat and spring provide smoother engagement like the OEM spring plate, but without the spring plate’s risk of self-destruction.
Joel Zink pretty sure i didnt order the xtra plate kit. What i did do thks time was....one friction, flat steel, concave ring then steel. Rides lime normal until u give it gas and then she slips badly. Barnett tech guys gave me two difft answers. One says take em out, the other says use them. I think what ill do is do like u said and put those in first, reassemble n see what happens. Thnx 4 the tips. Much appreciated
That read funny. Let me back up. One Barnett guy saus to not use either, one guys says to use them. However, i had to repeatedly tell him that i am NOT using a grenade ring on my bike. It had been removed before i bought it. Way it is now is....friction, flat steel, then concave, the steel, friction, steel friction etc....operates, but slips when power is rolled on. Im either going to do what u said (start with the flat n dampner, THEN START MY FRICTION STEEL STACK. I'LL ADVISE. THNX AGAIN
I’m confused. Some youtube videos about installing Barnett Extra Plate kits in Sportsters talk about installing the damper seat, the concave damper spring, and the “B fiber plate.” I asked Barnett and their response is that none of their Extra Plate kits use a “judder spring or seat.”
DO NOT use this video as a guide for replacing your clutch. It starts well into the procedure, and omits several steps. This makes it worthless for both those who have never done it before and don't know how, and for those who have done it before and do know how.
Step by step, good lighting, good camera with good angles. Thanks.
Oh boy does this make a refreshing change. Slow enough to see the details with good annotation and without endless repetitive yap. Thanks
One of the best videos to how change the clutch rings, you deserve 1000000 of views ,unfortunately not everyone have a sportster!
its the same clutch on big twins too
Dire Wolf was a nice touch. Jerry and the boys make every project video better. Great video BTW. Thanks
the "easier way" to remove the center snap ring is to just push between the grooved posts against the snap ring edge with a suitable punch or screw driver, each in turn (12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 o'clock or what ever order works for the open end of your ring), push in, lever up, move on to the next opening. you may need to use a second tool to keep the whole ring from rotating in the grooves by holding the still restrained in the groove end. far less likely to chip or break off the grooved post compared to trying to twist/pull it out with pliers.
I first tried doing both ends of the spring clip and then gave up and just worked on one end with a screwdriver working it around and it came out perfectly... when I put it back together I did the same in reverse.
Thank you, thank you, Thank you. with out this walk through I would have been screwed. this is the first clutch replacement I have ever done and could not have done it with out this\
Way easier way to get that retainer out. Push the retaining ring into the clutch and pull it off. I do it with my fingers.
I'll give it a shot in 20 years when this one breaks
Thanks for actually showing how the clutch cable hooks up to the ramp And the adjustment there after
Those spring plates are the death of primaries!! I'm glad I replaced mine as well. I believe I went with Belt Drives company tho. A customer at our shop tried using the Barnett and his shit sounded super squeaky and grindy. We redid the clutch hun assembly with the belt drive and everything was smoothe as butter.
My bikes so loud I can only hear the pipes, I think I do hear a squeak sometimes if I ride along a brick wall but then I also got a pinging sound that I will have to try fix someday hopefully it only costs a penny
Thank you for sharing - great video...very helpful!
The one and only reason I watched this was to find out how to get that snap ring out without bending it . 😂
Big snap ring pliers helped me get the circlip
Only tip I've got, is get two 4"long 1/4×20 bolts cut heads off insert top &bottom, helps hold gasket & alignment of p- cover as you push it on& lift chain up on to tension shoe! Good job,did you get any noise from transmission?
Forget that Barnett clutch!
I just fixed my old HD 2006 Sportster clutch and spring plate problem and my bike runs better and shifts better than ever. How did I do it? I removed the pack of plates, found the exploded spring plate took it apart and kept the two steel rings. I then lined the two up as perfect as possible. I offset the original holes for the brass fasteners leaving no see-through holes. I took my MIG welder and tacked the smaller of the holes on both sides with about 4-second bursts tacking the two steel plates together. I then took my angle grinder and dressed them. I filed the ears so that the plate would mount like the single steel plates nice and smooth. I filed the inside of the basket where the damage was left by the original plate making sure no plates would hang up on any of the damaged areas. I then installed new fibers with the old steels making sure that the welded pressure plate would be "past" the damaged area when installed. I then put it all back together and took it for a ride. WOW! It shifted smoother quieter and grabbed very well. It was a trial thing and am I glad I did it. The only size difference is the thin springs that were between the two steel rings are gone and it had no effect... except a GREAT shifting clutch now!
Barry Wind
Would have loved to see a video of that.
May Joe, I explained it as thoroughly as I possibly could so anyone could do it. I don't know how to do a video, sorry! Maybe someone will read this and make one!
Barry Wind
You did explain it in great detail. That's true. I'm just a visual kind of guy. That's all. Cheers.
Texas Holden...Thanks, I'm enjoying the change and the next clutch will only require fiber plates.
Perfect video. Thanks.
Are you from the valley & if so , which valley ???🏍️
I'm from the lower Naugatuck
Valley on CT.
Perfect. Thanks.
Nice work 👍 brother
Is it possible to remove grenade ring & use harley friction&plates to refill clutch components? My bike has less than 500m. If so 1 of each?
Dire wolf!
shhhh! Jerrys gonna haunt me now for copyrights
I have changed clutches on my bike several times for one reason or another I was attempting to put in the heavy duty Barnett diaphragm , it was so hard to tighten down I was worried I was going to break the pressure plate so I stopped any ideas
I’m trying to take mine out.. you ever find a solution?
@@joshnorwich8761 , hey man , I had the Barnett heavy duty spring in mine with the stock clutch hub and where the snap ring grove is, it snapped the outer edge off. So of course the spring pops out and your screwed, I went with the carbon fiber clutches and the medium duty spring. The motor is the Hammer performance 1275, probably over 100 horse. But if you mess with hammer per. Contact me first. I have some things to share about them.... Replace the backing plate and hub with after market performance parts, and I went with the high dollar clutch cable ,over 150.$ with the nylon internal. Man it's so easy, unreal. Well good luck
@@joshnorwich8761 , PS. It does get super tight to get it out, be sure to get the after market parts, what year is your motor
@@jamesderbaum9678was thinking of getting a hammer 1275; what should I watch out for ?
love the video.have a question got the Barnett extra plate clutch,half of the steel plates have dimples in them and other half are plain what goes in first plain or dimpledafter you put friction plate in first
try calling the seller and ask. They could send you completely wrong parts. One of the clutch plates that said it would fit my bike was so big it wouldn't even fit in the thing at all. I was lucky it was way different because if it was almost the same and would of fit I'd be running that setup for a while haha
the plates I got just all had a sloped edge on one side of them. looked all over online and best I could find is have them all pointing out or all pointing in but all pointing in the same direction. Not sure if its true or even matters but thats what I've been riding this year
Not a worry. Wharped steel plates are ran thru a press dimpling and now not wharped. If any are thicker install first thicker . They disperse heat better.
Thanks for the video. What year and model sporty was this done on?
04' xlc
👍👏👍👍
Pardon my ignorance but why the spring plate is not-reused? What's the function of it? Thank you.
It's not reused because the brass rivets can shear off inside of the primary and chew up the basket where the clutch plates sit. Basically, it'll break everything in there when the spring plate fails.
If that's your video Valley Rider obviously you can do it and doing it smart like I watched the other video and what a joke have a great day thanks for the reply peace
@ 5:10 You completely F@#$ed this clutch install bye mistakenly slipping a stock fiber friction plate back into your clutch basket? And it looks like you went with a Barnett Kevlar friction kit! Congratulations You get the "BONER AWARD"
seems fine to me, its my daily driver 20k miles since this video and runs better than ever. Lets see your clutch video "bone polisher"
@@valleyrider8620 I will make a video the next time I swap a XL clutch out and I'll introduce a genius product. It's called a "wire tie" that way do it yourselfers can be commentated to tie all of the old parts together before installing any of the new parts. Then they don't make the same mistake that you made in your install.
On my 08 there was also a flat ring n concave ring towards the bottom (or at bottom) of the clutch basket. I didnt see u remove these.
This was an 04 XLC, not sure if they are different.
Wade N., Sounds like your bike had a Barnett Extra-Plate kit. That kit comes with a “damper seat” and a “damper spring” that are installed in the clutch basket before any friction plates or steel plates are installed. My understanding is that the damper seat and spring provide smoother engagement like the OEM spring plate, but without the spring plate’s risk of self-destruction.
Joel Zink pretty sure i didnt order the xtra plate kit. What i did do thks time was....one friction, flat steel, concave ring then steel. Rides lime normal until u give it gas and then she slips badly. Barnett tech guys gave me two difft answers. One says take em out, the other says use them. I think what ill do is do like u said and put those in first, reassemble n see what happens. Thnx 4 the tips. Much appreciated
That read funny. Let me back up. One Barnett guy saus to not use either, one guys says to use them. However, i had to repeatedly tell him that i am NOT using a grenade ring on my bike. It had been removed before i bought it. Way it is now is....friction, flat steel, then concave, the steel, friction, steel friction etc....operates, but slips when power is rolled on. Im either going to do what u said (start with the flat n dampner, THEN START MY FRICTION STEEL STACK. I'LL ADVISE. THNX AGAIN
I’m confused. Some youtube videos about installing Barnett Extra Plate kits in Sportsters talk about installing the damper seat, the concave damper spring, and the “B fiber plate.” I asked Barnett and their response is that none of their Extra Plate kits use a “judder spring or seat.”
Quite obvious set you have no idea how to do a clutch properly on a Dyna
I could do it
Пиздец оч сложно
DO NOT use this video as a guide for replacing your clutch. It starts well into the procedure, and omits several steps. This makes it worthless for both those who have never done it before and don't know how, and for those who have done it before and do know how.