I've used it on my r1, my gsxr 1000, z1000, basically all my bikes. No issues. Changed every 6k km and all my bikes have had 75k or more and still ran great with stock engine parts before sold.
I use t6 in my Kawasaki concours 14. Did a 3150 mile cross-country trip from California back to the East Coast running 12 hours a day through deserts through sandstorms, in the rain.Everything you could possibly put a motorcycle through set an oil analysis to Blackstone and it came back better than average. So you can say anything you want about t6, but it is better than anywhere else I’ve ever used. I also use it in my 2003 BMW X5 with excellent results.
Wish more people would run an oil analysis to prove that their favourite oil really does perform as well as they think? What was the wear in your bike with T6? What was it before you used T6? How much did it reduce wear? The lubricant that results in the lowest wear wins? 🙂
Oils like Motul 300v and Amsoil are 100% synthetic. Oils that say full synthetic are petroleum based with all synthetic additives. 100% synthetic means that the base oil is also synthetic. It is the highest in quality and double the price. If you want the best and don't mind spending, then that's what you'll get. Will it make any difference in real use? Probably not, and btw I'm using Rotella T6 in my bikes, no issues. Just thought I'd clarify because this is something I learned somewhat recently.
With more than 20+ years experience with Shell Rotella, starting with my 2000 Kawasaki 700 LTD, then onto both my 2007 Ninja 250R and 2008 ZZR600, all of your points regarding Shell Rotella are truly spot on. Moreover, there is just no way I can justify spending $68 plus dollars more for an oil that makes less than 1% difference overall in normal riding, which is *easily defeated * by simply changing the Engine Oil / Filter at no more than the 75% point of OEM Recommendations. Example - If the OEM recommends changing the Engine Oil / Filter at 6,000 Miles (9,656 KM), than change both at 4,500 Miles (7,242 KM).
No matter what people think the facts are the facts. Rotella T6 meets the minimum requirements set out by JASO for their MA designation certification. It matters diddly squat what the oil was designed for; it matters what the test results are by the governing/testing body. Anyone who'd pay more for "specifically designed" motorcycle oil (who's bikes require JASO MA) are pissing money away just so they can brag about their "specifically designed" motorcycle oil. I've been running T6 in everything since it first came on the market. I run it in my Triton powered F150, and if anyone knows just how finicky these engines are they know that it's all about the oil for that engine, and i'm way over 300,000 km on the factory engine. I also run it in my Ecoboost F150, VW TDI, Kawasaki Versys, Massey Ferguson Tractor, Husqvarna Snow Blower, tractor lawn mower, outboard motors, and so on.... you folks get the point. I'm a Red Seal Licensed Technician and I know my shizzle when it comes to oil. I've done the math and have sent oil samples away for testing to determined reduction in anti-shear properties especially in small engines and motorcycles and this shit exceeds any motor manufacturers minimum specs that i've been able to obtain to date. As for length of time between changes it's all up to you, but I've been running approx. 7500km between changes on the Triton, 10,000km to 14,000km on the Ecoboost and close to 10,000km on my Versys. I trust these intervals because of the feedback i've received from oil sample analysis' that have been conducted on these units. The triton is a bit more frequent just because of the simple fact the Triton Engine Platform has such a checkered past in regards to plugged oil passages, deteriorated timing component seals, cam phaser & VCT solenoid failures and burnt up engines that were actually decently maintained. I buy my T6 in the USA and get it in bulk because the Canuckistan prices for this oil is down right retarded..... when I'm getting low I make a weekend of it and rip down state side and stock up on goodies. Thanks for posting the review and getting the info out there for people and getting people to discuss and think about alternatives and maybe switching over to a "can do all" motor oil like I've decided to do.
Wow, thank you for the deep discussion points here I completely agree and respect your knowledge in this matter ! Great to hear T6 has worked amazing in all your applications, and trust me, I KNOW THOSE TRITON ENGINES TOO !!
Thanks! Yup the Triton is the Ferrari engine of the domestic truck world in respect for tolerances and excessive preventive maintenance. My plan for this winter is to remove the triton and shoe horn in a 3.5L ecoboost. I have started usingvthe T6 in my friends new 1330 Rotax powered Can-Am Spyders also and there has been no issues as of yet. Very little mileage on the T6 in them but I shall be grabbing oil samples soon to be sent away for analysis.
+gmctech, but what you listed isn't considered super high-performance If people who use super high-performance at extreme limits use T6 oil it could mean the difference between wear and no wear vs the higher-end brands like Motul 300V. High-performance as in constant race oil temps and RPMs over 11k sustained for an hour. Also if you use oil in a wet clutch motorcycle system the clutch will slip after a while according to feedback of motorcycle riders.
My dad has been driving big rigs for 30 years. Engines from caterpillar, Cummins and Detroit diesel. Not one engine failure, I also have gallons of bulk of it. I run the Rotella T syn in my triumph speed triple that I ride every day. And run regular rotella in my mazda 3. I've ran Motul in all of my KTM and Aprilia motorcycles with no noticeable benefits. Save the money run rotella.... I think that should be their new slogan. It's got a nice ring to it
I ran Mobile 1 one time for my car for track day, because people were saying it's the best oil. My motor spun a bearing 2nd session of the day. I then switched to Rotella T6 and never had any issue. Drove the car to the track, drove it 10/10 on the track and on the weekends. Always did put fresh oil in before every track day.
The Rotella oils exceed all the Jaso specs by a wide margin. There is no definitive testing that shows one oil is better...it's all anecdotal. After exhaustively researching everything available with regard to motor oils, I've found nothing to convince me that motorcycle specific oils have superior properties in any parameter required by the engine or transmission. Some people like to pay more.
The argument of "you spend $15000 on a Ducati and put in Rotella" really dissolves when you consider a Peterbilt, Kenworth, Volvo etc lory that can cost 10 times that and work under loads never experienced on any motorcycle yet Rotella is commonly trusted by all who use it. I use it, it's good ust put it in a BMW F800R 12:1 compression. Snob appeal oil fascists will differ.
All I can say is I've tried 5 different oils and Motul 300V. Well as you say there is just nothing better. After 3000 miles it still flow like water, shifting is smooth as a baby skin. Engine is very clean, noise is great, little aggressive, power is at the top. At least every one should try once.
I've always used the HP4 on my 2 cbr600rr. And today I bought the rottella to give it a try. It seems to be ok. Like you said. Therea no reported failures of any kind with rottella T6
Rotella is fine for the most part but some bikes may not like it. I used it forever in my FZ1 but was unable to get it for an oil change so went with Mobil 1 and wow, what a difference. Bike shifted way smoother, clutch felt better too. Very noticeable. Went back to Rotella and the same problem with notchy shifting came back. So I eventually went with Royal Purple Max Cycle and incredible difference. Buttery smooth shifts, the engine got so quiet and it runs much cooler. I have a temp gauge and I'm 8 to 10 degrees lower. I'll never use anything but RP now in this bike. I've since heard from other riders having shifting issues with Rotella. But if it works for you, go for it. My bike obviously wasn't happy with it, although I'm sure it provided great protection. I just prefer my smoother shifts and quieter valvetrain since switched.
Rotella is $21 at Walmart and believe it or not 300V is $29.15 on amazon right now. gotta scroll down the list a bit but its there as of today!!!!! bought 2 gallons
From real world experience I love the T6. I ran in my Ducati 999 BP with 0 issues. Last year I purchased a 96 Cherokee with the 4.0 in it. Jeep had about 240K on the clock and made the usual 4.0 clatter. I ran seafoam through the oil system a couple times and have used T6 in it since I got the thing. It’s currently at 256,000 miles and it no longer clatters like it’s about to die, no leaks, no weird noises this oil works great for any engine that produces a lot of heat. And those of us that have Ducati’s, Aprillia’s, any V twin sport or super bike know they produce a lot of heat. I will also add that I am a diesel tech by trade and I run Rotella in my own Cummins ram along with many of my customers and non have had any premature wear or issues from any Rotella product wether it’s the T6 5W40 or the T4 15W40. So don’t be scared, run the T6 and enjoy, it won’t let you down. I will also add that the mineral package in the T6 works excellent for engines with flat tappet camshafts.
Joseph Latarte thanks for your input Joseph glad to hear that T6 worked great for you as well :) I ain't so worried anymore. For the most part all these top oils are within margin of difference from one another
Bro you can run Rotella T4 15W-40 in your bike and it will run fine. I been running it in my 09 FZ6R with out any issues. Don't listen to these so called wanna be oil scientist.
Only problem in the zx10r it's too heavy and engine took a long time to spool normally with the 5100 motul it was so much better performance but of curse not longevity like the t6. Half of the life maybe even less.
.2 cents from me, got a 200 thousand mile original engine turbo Subaru, rotella t6 is all I have ever run. For a Subie making over 300HP, a stock 200k motor speaks for itself.
Have a 2008 CBR 1000RR with 62,000 km on it (38,000 miles+) ... done track days, street rding etc... I don't remember when the last time I didn't use Rotella T6...I used to buy the Honda oil filters but now buy the Mobil 1 108 or whatever it is... I tend to change it out often (every 3000-4000 km...) and have had no problems whatsoever. I swear by this oil. At 62,000 km... even if my engine blows up, I'm not too worried... something like Motul 300V is just too expensive for the amount of riding I do ($90 for 4 L haha). Should I need a new engine, I'm not too worried... the bike has done me well.
+Canadian Rider It didn't for a while... til like 20k km I wanna say... then It sipped it a bit.. like 250 ml per oil change.. nothing drastic like the 1L per 1000km some CBR 1000 owners were experiencing with 2008 bikes. I don't baby my bike by any means (I got it for 10grand during the recession in Buffalo so its paid for long time ago and doesn't owe me anything)
+QuecksilberCBR That is very low consumption anyway. Glad to hear another satisfied T6 customer. Really feel this oil is the best bang for the buck a person can get !
+Canadian Rider Low consumption given the fact the riding conditions are kinda stressed... You should take the 959 on track :) I've been riding 12+ years and I wish I had done it earlier... honestly. Can't wait until June when my premium comes due.. will be an interesting month. 5+ track days vs going to Tim Hortons on a Superbike... haha... decisions decisions.
+Canadian Rider saw 2 different UOA's from Blackstone on Ford 6.4 diesels... both had ridiculously low wear rates shown...it really does seem to be the best bang for the buck oil on he market!
In 2006 I used Rotella T6 on my 2003 ZX7R. I had never heard of it, but a buddy of mine who was studying to be a mechanical engineer said, “it’s the same thing!” I changed the oil the day before going to a track day using the Rotella. After that, I put about 300 street miles. I changed the oil and it came out like WATER!! I put some Repsol 4T and WOW, what a difference! The engine was smooth and quieter. Since then, I frown and shake my head when I hear about people using Rotella. This is my “own” experience. Granted, my engine didn’t “blow up,” but I don’t feel it’s better than motorcycle specific oil.
I've been a huge T6 fan for years. I seriously doubt it has a Group IV base. More likely, Group 3. Group 4 base stock is VERY EXPENSIVE (think Amsoil). The most amazing quality of T6 is its low price.
I did the math. LiquiMoly 15W50 motorcycle oil (4 liter jug) costs me $15 per annual oil change and the Rotella T6 (purchasing three 1 gallon jugs) costs me $8. At the very least, my G310GS is still under factory warranty, I do all of my own maintenance, and I don't want BMW voiding the warranty because I saved $7 by using diesel truck oil for the annual oil change.
Rotella T6 is great oil. I've used it the past 30k Miles on my 2.0t FSI engine as well as in my Turbo Honda F12x Aquatrax and Sea Doo RXT 215. The oil is great. Just go look at the statistical findings for it.
I have never heard of Rotella but Motul I am using quite often, but the 300v is more for track day use as you should change it quite often, I would go with the 7100 for modern superbike for street use/track day from time to time.
Pillokun even for track days 7100 is better than 300v unless you’re racing and changing every weekend like a loony. 10-40w 7100 all day in my 1299s and I beat the shit out of it. Redlining and hitting 180+mph almost every time I’m out. I have an extra gallon of T6 in the garage and thinking of throwing it in next time. I know it’s good enough. I ran 15-50 in my 1199 and it ran smoother but I could feel a little loss in HP. 5-40 felt a little more vibration and HP but settled on the 10-40w 7100. I just don’t think t6 will do any harm so I’m gonna run it for 5k miles on my 1299 🍻
The Rotella sucks after a season of riding. Personally experienced clutch grabbing and overheating issues on an aircooled 1400cc vtwin engine with Rotella. Switched to Motul 7100 and its been a champ and bangs thru gears like a monster. Also use the Motul 7100 on my inline 4 z900 and haven't had any of the shifting issues I had with the stock Kawasaki oil. I dont work for motul. Just saying its just a damn good oil!!
Get this! Since my V TWIN uses 5 quarts of oil I buy 1 4L of motul 7100 and add 1.25 quarts of Rotella T6. Lol!! Works awesome and 5000 miles before oil changes with a K&N filter. I save a couple dollars this way and I have had zero issues and smooth shifts. I may even mix both at 50/50 next time
I have used most oils in my cars but I recommend you take two flat knives like butter knives and put an oil to the test with less and less oil of your choice and rub the oil between your fingers. As you reduce the film you will see for yourself. Metal is metal. Also you can test viscosity with syringes but again it's not a measured lb ft but it may add to your knowledge. In my machine I used Motul 8100 because it increases mileage, sounds quieter. Why would you want more friction unless it's a clutch pack?
Well, Canadian rider, the Blackstone UOA is a great way to check wear rates...Rotella will work fine for low stress Motorcycle motors... but for my money.. the gRP 5 esters have the most film strength and extreme stress protection... polyol ester is the best of the best.... in terms of bases.... additives can bridge the gap somewhat...but with POE'S, that stuff starts with 4 times more film strength than petroleum.... that big of difference can not be made up.... motor rebuilds are expensive...most all synthetics have more shear resistance.... which offsets some of the price difference...they do last longer...
+mike schlup Hi Mike thanks for the comment! I have looked at some Blackstone UOA for them and checked out the wear rates and yes definitely the esters have much better film strength then the traditional synthetic
+Canadian Rider . I have a friend and have been a customer of his since 1991... he had the patent on veggie oils...and is a real life tribologist... have grilled him for hours...the best oils on the market.. no matter who is on the label have POE'S as part of the base oil...all of the base oils have strengths and weaknesses... which is why you are finding PAO and POE in the better syn oils...if your motor is tight.. redline oil will keep it running longer...I like it the best.. have tried them ALL!!!.. could go on for days...thanks for the opportunity to educate... it is a fascinating subject!
I agree on Rotella T6. I run it in every engine I have: Harley Softail, SBC 355, Duramax, Kubota, standby gens, Mahindra, just to name a few. Interestingly enough, I used to run Valvoline syn in my SBC but developed small seal leaks before changing over to Rotella.
Big trucks and industrial engine generators etc. cost more than a Ducati. I work in the industrial emergency engine generators, these E/Gs come with many different engines; Detroit Diesel 2-stroke turbo-supercharged, down to 10hp gasoline. All these engines manufacturer specs including my R1200GS air/oil cooled motorcycle agree the Schell T6 15w-40 or 50 is a great oil. My BMW has the dry clutch so I don't worry about that. But people will always chime in on what they think are the best tires, oil, oil filters etc. it is just what people do.
2009 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1700 V-Twin. I live and ride mostly in South-Eastern USA. Hot, humid summers, unpredictable winters. Rotella T6 did well during winter. Valve lifters were noisy in summer. Lifters making that much noise are exploding themselves to pieces. Transmission noisy and shifting clunky. I switched back to Mobil 1 motorcycle specific. Motor and transmission became smooth, powerful again.
Don’t believe it! I have ran Suzuki factory oil, then Lucas oil and last but not least Rottella T6 is the best oil! The last to oil changes Rottella T6 definitely the best gear changes, gas mileage and last but not least price! My bike 2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000 bought from dealer in 2017 still under 5 year Suzuki Warranty great bike.
never tried the t6 rotella yet.. but 300v is fantastic even put in my 125cc little rocket cagiva mito 7speed and vtwin GEN2 RSV1000RR.. still afraid to put in the rotella T6 (5-40 spec) since the vtwin needs 15-50 oil spec for its min requirement.. and i'm living in asia on daylight the temperature almost hit 41-42celcius.. at night around 30-33'c.. because of this matter i'm still thinking to use any '40' oil spec grade
In my SRT4 I run T6 with the silver can of "Engine Restorer" which I lroved thru a controlled test to have significant benefits in terms of compression being improved to maintained. So I get best of the best by using both. Now im going to be outting the same mixture into my R1, I expect nothing less than grattness. I daily 80 miles on the R1 and will see what happens over a year.
@@anthonyrodriguez5316 well the update is my buddy go on it 3 months ago and rode like an asshole and fucked my bike up. Never got to check the results. :( But I get it back this week and will find out.
Have you torn your engine down and had it inspected. I used to think this until I found out from engineers the truth. But hey run dyno oil from 1953 if that floats your boat.
I hit 16k RPMs nearly all the time when I ride.. 16k RPM is pretty crazy so it needs the best. Now, sticking 300V into say a Prius would be dumb. No doubt Rotella would be better but sticking Rotella T6 that isn't ester into a 16k RPM bike is just going to make the bike wear faster and make compression less taking away the whole point of having a high-performance motorcycle. Sure it can cut the power down a bit after it gets damaged and save a high-side due to less power but it's wrong. :(
The biggest difference between automotive and motorcycle oil is sheer factor, most motorcycle transmissions are lubricated by the engine oil as the transmission is in the crankcase. Automotive oil does not have sheer additives because they don't have that type of gear train to lubricate, whereas diesel engines do. So I can see where the oil could work and be a cost effective alternative to engine specific oil. Personally I have used Castrol lubricants since I started driving, however I'm not sure what my motorcycle requires as I just got it and haven't got the factory service manual yet and it's my first Harley. I believe it actually takes 3 different oils, engine, primary drive and transmission. So it is quite different than most other bikes, it also has a dry sump system, where the oil doesn't remain in the engine it is pumped back to the oil tank. Most likely I will use the proper Castrol lubricant for each application and probably go with a K&N filter.
Automotive engines do have gears and/or chains, plus the cam lifters and often turbos. Car oils are very robust, too, but some of them don't play well with a wet clutch.
Me personally i have never been happy with the shift quality of shell rottella in any bikes i have owned. my 2017 vstrom absolutly hates infact. nothing but 7100 20w50 for it for the last 50'000 km, and I will run it the whole season, or around 10'000km with little if any shift degridation.
A few years ago a French motorcycle mag (Motoconso) published a comparison of motor oils used in motorcycles. Their tests were performed in the lab and in the real world. Without exception, the "motorcycle" oils fared less well (sometimes cponsiderably less well) than all the "car" oils. Some of those motorcycle oils actually failed pretty miserably. The very best oil in their tests was Carefour 5w50, which is the home brand of a large department store chain. That's like discovering that Motomaster 5w50 outperforms everything else. Any oil that is not energy saving will work in our bikes regardless of what manufacturers of expensive motorcycle oils would have us believe. Rotella is a great oil, but so is Motomaster (also made by Shell, btw). Motul is an utter waste of good money. It probably won't harm your engine as long as you avoid long change intervals, but it also won't provide any benefits.
I used to run T6 in my FJR1300 with no issue. But when I ran it in my Versys about 3 years ago I had clutch slippage. I changed to Castrol Power 1 and the clutch was fine. So next change I thought I'd try T6 again, and the clutch was slipping again under high RPMs. So I changed back to the Castrol and it was fine. I know a lot of people have been running T6 without issue for years, but I've also been reading a lot lately about something changing in the formula, because it seems more people are experiencing slipping clutches. I'm going to stick with the Castrol Power 1, my bike shifts are super smooth with it.
@@tridip.chakraborty In the US, it's just labeled as Castrol Power 1. And I looked up the ultimate version and it looks like it's not available in the US.
The guy I purchased my CBR 600 RR recommended using T6. I just did an oil change yesterday with T6. I am an Amsoil fan and am thinking about using their motorcycle oil next and see if there is a difference.
After research I found this, both Rotellas don't live long in motorcycle engine, after two thousand k they loose 37% of initial viscosity compare with motul 300v only 7%. The transmission in your bike crush it. Motul oil has different oil base.
My dealer charges $88 for a Motul 300v oil change for my GSX-R 750. I've used Rotella on all my other bikes with no issue's but I guess my GSX-R is my baby and she does see high rpm's & heat (I live in Florida) often so I spend the extra money, gear changes seem smoother I will say with Motul.
i do want to say, the superquadro motor require 50 weight oil. There is so much pressure in that engine. If you are riding on the street only, I think 5w-40 is ok, but track and race. I definitely stay with 10w-50 or 15w-50.
definitely for track use I would stick with the 50 weight.Oil weight has a lot to do with your geography as well. I have seen lots of people run the 5w40 stuff on the Panigale for street use just fine. Do you have any experience with either of these oils ?
+Canadian Rider Yes, I've used T6 on my 2010 R1 for 28k miles. Great oil for sure. All my Subaru friends run T6 and love it. I own a 2014 Panigale R but haven't put T6 inside due to the fact the engine tolerance is super strict. I live in New England, so it doesn't affect me as much as far as weight of the oil goes, its more of a personal preference. That's why I run Castrol 4RS 10w-50 on the R. Great oil that cost less than Motul. My Ducati dealership here in NH recommend Motul but I can't justify the cost per oil change. Therefore I'm sticking to Castrol for now. Though, I wouldn't mind using T6 if my bike isn't used on the track half the time. How do you like T6 on your 899? Do you notice any difference? Have you ran track with T6 yet?
+Chris Chen Great to hear about your results on T6. I have not run T6 on the 899 yet, but I have run it on my Ninja 250 and cars all without a problem. I will be using Motul 300v on the Panigale on the first oil change, getting an analysis done then next change with T6 and will compare both oil analysis results from Blackstone Labs
I use T6 in my kawi zx9R and have no problem at all my bike even shifts better with the T6 than the belray and it's less money for more oil 40 bucks for 5 litres or 80 bucks for 4 litres .the duck will love the t6 for the price you can change it more often .note T6 is a full synthetic oil with a certified label on the jug.
I found the lab test for t6 and t4 in Russia for motorcycle engines. Both oils lost 37% of initial viscosity at the 4000k compare to Motul 300 only 7%. I got problems with clutch in both of my motorcycles within 2000km range.
FYI Ester is gonna give you good gunk means you use it for 700miles to 1000 if ridden hard. T6 commuting pushing here and there for any bike. Some run it 5k I ran it for 3k but in my ZX10 the T6 wasn't smooth transmission. Used Motul 5100 semi in the 10r at 140f track temp it surprised the Hell out of me with how the tranny was so spring crisp. The 10r destroys oil. So I ran it 3k and always good just the trans wasn't as smooth. In the 335i bmw Castrol was destroyed after 5k. Mobil one the same. T6 was 5k could push 7k. Only Liquid molly was true 10k. Overall T6 for anything unless you feel transmission isn't crisp.
T6 its science! Give it a break people, Brands have to compete, T6 is what you need - Bonus - Get engine break in additive to up the Zinc! T6 in my 87 supra turbo and 2002 Aprilia Caponord - flawless
Yep! Shell had to redo the chemistry with it for the new diesels and lower the saps. The T4 is not longer JASO MA approved from what I seen. I use the Rotella in just about every motorcycle I own.
Interesting what you said about synthetics foaming as today I changed out the Mobil 1 4t 10-40 racing oil out of my ninja 1k and noticed it was really foamy/soapy. Can you tell me more about this?
Yes basically the oil begins to foam at high working temperature and thus losing its ability to protect the engine from heat and wear. you need to ensure you get a oil that has properties to resist this. This is mainly a problem for track bikes pushed to the limits
Honestly the only difference you will see between these oils is in track use. 300v is actually made for track use specifically. If you are just riding on the street I would go with another oil, like Motul 7100 or Shell.
So you are smarter than the engineers that developed your motorcycle? That's what you are telling me? Show me on your owners manual were they recommend diesel oil in your Ducati.
t6 is great oil--but another shell product is better, in my book--pennzoil platinum plus is made from natural gas and is more uniform in size and seems to last longer than t6--also i always add a little gear lube to my oil change, in my bikes, to do a better job of coating surfaces and help the gearbox work better. gear lube is loaded with numerous additives and anti foaming agents too.
Use a motorcycle oil that has the right oil classifications and viscosity that the manufacture calls for. You wouldn't put motorcycle oil in your diesel engine then why would diesels oil in your motorcycle?
Would you recommend 5W40 Rotella T6 for a 1997 3000GT VR4(110K miles), would it be safe for the engine with this oil year round in Alberta climate? Thanks!
That's all I've ever used is 300v and I've never ever had one of my race bikes have any kind of problems that is the best bike oil and I ride my bikes but take very great care of them zx10r change oil every 1000 miles Husqvarna fc 350 race bike change every hr and my bikes run forever and run amazing 👏
Depends on the engine you are using it in, some require a 'racing ' oil even if your not racing as hi performance engines differ from other engined such as twin cylinder 500cc Honda compared to a V4 1000cc engine from Aprilia.
Me and my brother have been using it for years and never any issues, i even had a chunk of road debris bust my oil pan at about 120+ mph dumped all my oil on the HW and took about 1/2 mile to get stopped cause it ripped my brakes out also so I engine braked to a stop and after rebuilding put another 9k on it with rotella, combined we have easy 35k between 4 bikes on rotella
Just don't use T6 in something with old school flat tappet cams. Not enough ZDDP in T6. The ester tech film properties Motul could make up for low ZDDP levels. I doubt any current bike manufactures still use flat tappets. I've used Motul in bkes for years and now on my wife's FR-S. Royal Purp High Performance Street (over 1200 ppm ZDDP) in my straight 6 Jeep TJL.It never hurts to look for a better mousetrap.
I used Motul once and it is good, but I like to feel my clutch engage. Motul you don't even feel it which some prefer, but not me. Plus its expensive and I ride a lot.
My Dad knew the guys who invented T6 in the 80's at the Paulsboro NJ plant. They literally invented synthetic oil. Nothing but good things to say about this oil.
@@JunkCCCP Yes it was a joke they say they invented synthetic...they did however invent the T6 formula and I use it in about everything from my street bike, 700xx, to my lawnmower and pressure washer. My dad however with a Cummins diesel uses Mobil 1, go figure.
looking at a powertoy, it specifies SG or higher, JASO MA. I don't see the SG ratings and can't find it on the shell site. I see lots of C... ratings, must be specific to diesel?
Your right, one just has to look in your owners manual for high performance gasoline motors where Jaso MA or MA2 is spec. T6 doesn’t have it and is specifically designed for Diesel engines. Will T6 work, sure but why risk it, oil is cheap compared to a motor.
omg you dont know anything. you shouldnt be giving advise on oil you know nothing about. motul V300 is a DI-ester it is a GROUP 5 synthetic. group 4 is PAO or poly alpha olefin group5 are extra sticky. (why did you say that) its main benefit is resistance to SHEAR. and HIGHER HEAT. you can say sorry now
For a start the viscosity is different, and that's probably the biggest downside to the Rosella. It's the wrong viscosity for most European motorcycles, so if you think you know better than the factory that design and build the bike go right ahead and use it
The diesel trucks on the road delivering all the merchandise you & I buy, work harder than any vehicles on the roadways! MILLIONS of miles! "IF YOU GOT IT, A TRUCK BROUGHT IT!" and someone is really gunna argue if a diesel oil is better or not? I run Schaefer in my 2020 Tacoma & would in my bike if it was JASO approved but its not so Rotella it is.
Just made the switch to motul 300v from rotella t6 on my 2016 zx14... the new t6 is different, I've been using t6 for a really long time on my cbr1000rr with no problems, now it's causing my clutch to slip
Ian Oconer that is so odd. I'm going to assume you're going to switch back to motul 300 then in your case? Can you please report back and see if the problem has stopped?
dude im confused... why some rottella bottles says engine diesel .. and some just heavy duty .... i dont understand ... my bike is not diease why should i use a diesel oil ???
It is rated for diesel engine use, and is also rated for motorcycle engine use JASO MA and M2. This pil is rated for many different applications, but they market it for diesel use
Oil for diesel engines need to handle high temperature, with bikes, high reving, ripping on the cannon, will be hot very fast. Heat resident is one of the key why the t6 a good oil for motorcycle
Ok, here is results for Rotella T-4 15w-40 on Honda Magna v45 and Yamaha vmax. After 2000k I replaced a starter clutch on vmax due to excessive wear and clutch on the Magna started to make distinctive clink on the first gear. After oil replacement with motul brand the clunk miraculously disappeared.
I've used it on my r1, my gsxr 1000, z1000, basically all my bikes. No issues. Changed every 6k km and all my bikes have had 75k or more and still ran great with stock engine parts before sold.
I use t6 in my Kawasaki concours 14. Did a 3150 mile cross-country trip from California back to the East Coast running 12 hours a day through deserts through sandstorms, in the rain.Everything you could possibly put a motorcycle through set an oil analysis to Blackstone and it came back better than average. So you can say anything you want about t6, but it is better than anywhere else I’ve ever used. I also use it in my 2003 BMW X5 with excellent results.
Wish more people would run an oil analysis to prove that their favourite oil really does perform as well as they think?
What was the wear in your bike with T6?
What was it before you used T6?
How much did it reduce wear?
The lubricant that results in the lowest wear wins?
🙂
Oils like Motul 300v and Amsoil are 100% synthetic. Oils that say full synthetic are petroleum based with all synthetic additives. 100% synthetic means that the base oil is also synthetic. It is the highest in quality and double the price. If you want the best and don't mind spending, then that's what you'll get. Will it make any difference in real use? Probably not, and btw I'm using Rotella T6 in my bikes, no issues. Just thought I'd clarify because this is something I learned somewhat recently.
I have been using Rotella T6 FOR YEARS IN MY 1986 GSXR 750 AND NOW AT 89,000 and still running strong !!!
Another beautiful example from another user. Thanks for sharing your story brother and welcome to the channel
With more than 20+ years experience with Shell Rotella, starting with my 2000 Kawasaki 700 LTD, then onto both my 2007 Ninja 250R and 2008 ZZR600, all of your points regarding Shell Rotella are truly spot on. Moreover, there is just no way I can justify spending $68 plus dollars more for an oil that makes less than 1% difference overall in normal riding, which is *easily defeated * by simply changing the Engine Oil / Filter at no more than the 75% point of OEM Recommendations. Example - If the OEM recommends changing the Engine Oil / Filter at 6,000 Miles (9,656 KM), than change both at 4,500 Miles (7,242 KM).
Obviously two great oils; I don't think there is a single case where either of these caused engine failure in any application.
No matter what people think the facts are the facts. Rotella T6 meets the minimum requirements set out by JASO for their MA designation certification. It matters diddly squat what the oil was designed for; it matters what the test results are by the governing/testing body. Anyone who'd pay more for "specifically designed" motorcycle oil (who's bikes require JASO MA) are pissing money away just so they can brag about their "specifically designed" motorcycle oil.
I've been running T6 in everything since it first came on the market. I run it in my Triton powered F150, and if anyone knows just how finicky these engines are they know that it's all about the oil for that engine, and i'm way over 300,000 km on the factory engine. I also run it in my Ecoboost F150, VW TDI, Kawasaki Versys, Massey Ferguson Tractor, Husqvarna Snow Blower, tractor lawn mower, outboard motors, and so on.... you folks get the point.
I'm a Red Seal Licensed Technician and I know my shizzle when it comes to oil. I've done the math and have sent oil samples away for testing to determined reduction in anti-shear properties especially in small engines and motorcycles and this shit exceeds any motor manufacturers minimum specs that i've been able to obtain to date.
As for length of time between changes it's all up to you, but I've been running approx. 7500km between changes on the Triton, 10,000km to 14,000km on the Ecoboost and close to 10,000km on my Versys. I trust these intervals because of the feedback i've received from oil sample analysis' that have been conducted on these units. The triton is a bit more frequent just because of the simple fact the Triton Engine Platform has such a checkered past in regards to plugged oil passages, deteriorated timing component seals, cam phaser & VCT solenoid failures and burnt up engines that were actually decently maintained. I buy my T6 in the USA and get it in bulk because the Canuckistan prices for this oil is down right retarded..... when I'm getting low I make a weekend of it and rip down state side and stock up on goodies.
Thanks for posting the review and getting the info out there for people and getting people to discuss and think about alternatives and maybe switching over to a "can do all" motor oil like I've decided to do.
Wow, thank you for the deep discussion points here I completely agree and respect your knowledge in this matter ! Great to hear T6 has worked amazing in all your applications, and trust me, I KNOW THOSE TRITON ENGINES TOO !!
Thanks! Yup the Triton is the Ferrari engine of the domestic truck world in respect for tolerances and excessive preventive maintenance. My plan for this winter is to remove the triton and shoe horn in a 3.5L ecoboost. I have started usingvthe T6 in my friends new 1330 Rotax powered Can-Am Spyders also and there has been no issues as of yet. Very little mileage on the T6 in them but I shall be grabbing oil samples soon to be sent away for analysis.
gmctech oh wow your getting the ecoboost in there! That's gonna be a crazy transplant
Canadian Rider
+gmctech, but what you listed isn't considered super high-performance
If people who use super high-performance at extreme limits use T6 oil it could mean the difference between wear and no wear vs the higher-end brands like Motul 300V. High-performance as in constant race oil temps and RPMs over 11k sustained for an hour. Also if you use oil in a wet clutch motorcycle system the clutch will slip after a while according to feedback of motorcycle riders.
My dad has been driving big rigs for 30 years. Engines from caterpillar, Cummins and Detroit diesel. Not one engine failure, I also have gallons of bulk of it. I run the Rotella T syn in my triumph speed triple that I ride every day. And run regular rotella in my mazda 3. I've ran Motul in all of my KTM and Aprilia motorcycles with no noticeable benefits. Save the money run rotella.... I think that should be their new slogan. It's got a nice ring to it
you should contact sales marketing department hahaha
JTS eedtriple works well with big cam? getting nervous changing the oil in my civic with a new cam.
TheBikemaster94 I personally run Rotella in my machines. I couldn't imagine swapping cams would change anything. I would run it
I ran Mobile 1 one time for my car for track day, because people were saying it's the best oil. My motor spun a bearing 2nd session of the day. I then switched to Rotella T6 and never had any issue. Drove the car to the track, drove it 10/10 on the track and on the weekends. Always did put fresh oil in before every track day.
Damn that's crazy sorry to hear what car do you have running on the track?
@@carswithsonduren GC8 Impreza with a JDM 2.0L swap, our GC8 in America are naturally aspirated
I'm full on Rotella gang. I've been running it in my cars for probably like 5 years and I've been running it in my triumph Daytona for like 2 years.
The Rotella oils exceed all the Jaso specs by a wide margin.
There is no definitive testing that shows one oil is better...it's all anecdotal. After exhaustively researching everything available with regard to motor oils, I've found nothing to convince me that motorcycle specific oils have superior properties in any parameter required by the engine or transmission.
Some people like to pay more.
The argument of "you spend $15000 on a Ducati and put in Rotella" really dissolves when you consider a Peterbilt, Kenworth, Volvo etc lory that can cost 10 times that and work under loads never experienced on any motorcycle yet Rotella is commonly trusted by all who use it. I use it, it's good ust put it in a BMW F800R 12:1 compression. Snob appeal oil fascists will differ.
Well, Ducati tends to have a dry clutch, so you don't even need JASO-MA here
All I can say is I've tried 5 different oils and Motul 300V. Well as you say there is just nothing better. After 3000 miles it still flow like water, shifting is smooth as a baby skin. Engine is very clean, noise is great, little aggressive, power is at the top. At least every one should try once.
+steeveneleven and that is why I always keep 300v now in my Ducati :-)
@@LA_Commander I didn't check. For sure it isn't bad, but I can't say if it give any improvement.
Yes
I've always used the HP4 on my 2 cbr600rr. And today I bought the rottella to give it a try. It seems to be ok. Like you said. Therea no reported failures of any kind with rottella T6
Rotella is fine for the most part but some bikes may not like it. I used it forever in my FZ1 but was unable to get it for an oil change so went with Mobil 1 and wow, what a difference. Bike shifted way smoother, clutch felt better too. Very noticeable. Went back to Rotella and the same problem with notchy shifting came back. So I eventually went with Royal Purple Max Cycle and incredible difference. Buttery smooth shifts, the engine got so quiet and it runs much cooler. I have a temp gauge and I'm 8 to 10 degrees lower. I'll never use anything but RP now in this bike. I've since heard from other riders having shifting issues with Rotella. But if it works for you, go for it. My bike obviously wasn't happy with it, although I'm sure it provided great protection. I just prefer my smoother shifts and quieter valvetrain since switched.
Rotella is $21 at Walmart and believe it or not 300V is $29.15 on amazon right now. gotta scroll down the list a bit but its there as of today!!!!! bought 2 gallons
Thanks for the update Damon :)
It's 52 for a gallon of 300v on Amazon
From real world experience I love the T6. I ran in my Ducati 999 BP with 0 issues. Last year I purchased a 96 Cherokee with the 4.0 in it. Jeep had about 240K on the clock and made the usual 4.0 clatter. I ran seafoam through the oil system a couple times and have used T6 in it since I got the thing. It’s currently at 256,000 miles and it no longer clatters like it’s about to die, no leaks, no weird noises this oil works great for any engine that produces a lot of heat. And those of us that have Ducati’s, Aprillia’s, any V twin sport or super bike know they produce a lot of heat. I will also add that I am a diesel tech by trade and I run Rotella in my own Cummins ram along with many of my customers and non have had any premature wear or issues from any Rotella product wether it’s the T6 5W40 or the T4 15W40. So don’t be scared, run the T6 and enjoy, it won’t let you down. I will also add that the mineral package in the T6 works excellent for engines with flat tappet camshafts.
Joseph Latarte thanks for your input Joseph glad to hear that T6 worked great for you as well :) I ain't so worried anymore. For the most part all these top oils are within margin of difference from one another
Mlm
the motul 7100 and 300v are actually grp v base oils (ester)
I was more surprised that T6 for its price is a group 4
HERPY DERPEDY it isnt. T6 is a group 3.
Mobil 1 have been using this for my Harley and Corvette for years and never had a problem
Mobil 1 as a whole is really great Oil I have to agree :)
Been runing rotella t6 on my bikes for a long time no problems!!!
Cant beat $22 per gallon!!!
Bro you can run Rotella T4 15W-40 in your bike and it will run fine. I been running it in my 09 FZ6R with out any issues. Don't listen to these so called wanna be oil scientist.
Yessirrrrr💪🏾💪🏾
Well said sir!
Only problem in the zx10r it's too heavy and engine took a long time to spool normally with the 5100 motul it was so much better performance but of curse not longevity like the t6. Half of the life maybe even less.
@@mmm4638 T6 shreds to quickly in reviews.
.2 cents from me, got a 200 thousand mile original engine turbo Subaru, rotella t6 is all I have ever run. For a Subie making over 300HP, a stock 200k motor speaks for itself.
Have a 2008 CBR 1000RR with 62,000 km on it (38,000 miles+) ... done track days, street rding etc... I don't remember when the last time I didn't use Rotella T6...I used to buy the Honda oil filters but now buy the Mobil 1 108 or whatever it is... I tend to change it out often (every 3000-4000 km...) and have had no problems whatsoever. I swear by this oil. At 62,000 km... even if my engine blows up, I'm not too worried... something like Motul 300V is just too expensive for the amount of riding I do ($90 for 4 L haha). Should I need a new engine, I'm not too worried... the bike has done me well.
+QuecksilberCBR Have you ever noticed any oil burn at all? Supposedly some T6 haters state this is a problem?
+Canadian Rider It didn't for a while... til like 20k km I wanna say... then It sipped it a bit.. like 250 ml per oil change.. nothing drastic like the 1L per 1000km some CBR 1000 owners were experiencing with 2008 bikes. I don't baby my bike by any means (I got it for 10grand during the recession in Buffalo so its paid for long time ago and doesn't owe me anything)
+QuecksilberCBR That is very low consumption anyway. Glad to hear another satisfied T6 customer. Really feel this oil is the best bang for the buck a person can get !
+Canadian Rider Low consumption given the fact the riding conditions are kinda stressed... You should take the 959 on track :) I've been riding 12+ years and I wish I had done it earlier... honestly. Can't wait until June when my premium comes due.. will be an interesting month. 5+ track days vs going to Tim Hortons on a Superbike... haha... decisions decisions.
+Canadian Rider saw 2 different UOA's from Blackstone on Ford 6.4 diesels... both had ridiculously low wear rates shown...it really does seem to be the best bang for the buck oil on he market!
In 2006 I used Rotella T6 on my 2003 ZX7R. I had never heard of it, but a buddy of mine who was studying to be a mechanical engineer said, “it’s the same thing!”
I changed the oil the day before going to a track day using the Rotella. After that, I put about 300 street miles. I changed the oil and it came out like WATER!! I put some Repsol 4T and WOW, what a difference! The engine was smooth and quieter. Since then, I frown and shake my head when I hear about people using Rotella. This is my “own” experience. Granted, my engine didn’t “blow up,” but I don’t feel it’s better than motorcycle specific oil.
I've been a huge T6 fan for years. I seriously doubt it has a Group IV base. More likely, Group 3. Group 4 base stock is VERY EXPENSIVE (think Amsoil). The most amazing quality of T6 is its low price.
I did the math. LiquiMoly 15W50 motorcycle oil (4 liter jug) costs me $15 per annual oil change and the Rotella T6 (purchasing three 1 gallon jugs) costs me $8. At the very least, my G310GS is still under factory warranty, I do all of my own maintenance, and I don't want BMW voiding the warranty because I saved $7 by using diesel truck oil for the annual oil change.
Rotella T6 is great oil. I've used it the past 30k Miles on my 2.0t FSI engine as well as in my Turbo Honda F12x Aquatrax and Sea Doo RXT 215. The oil is great. Just go look at the statistical findings for it.
I have never heard of Rotella but Motul I am using quite often, but the 300v is more for track day use as you should change it quite often, I would go with the 7100 for modern superbike for street use/track day from time to time.
yup, too many noobies go gaga over 300v for ignorant reasons
Pillokun even for track days 7100 is better than 300v unless you’re racing and changing every weekend like a loony. 10-40w 7100 all day in my 1299s and I beat the shit out of it. Redlining and hitting 180+mph almost every time I’m out. I have an extra gallon of T6 in the garage and thinking of throwing it in next time. I know it’s good enough. I ran 15-50 in my 1199 and it ran smoother but I could feel a little loss in HP. 5-40 felt a little more vibration and HP but settled on the 10-40w 7100. I just don’t think t6 will do any harm so I’m gonna run it for 5k miles on my 1299 🍻
What are the effects of ZDDP on the motorcycles catalytic converter?
The Rotella sucks after a season of riding. Personally experienced clutch grabbing and overheating issues on an aircooled 1400cc vtwin engine with Rotella. Switched to Motul 7100 and its been a champ and bangs thru gears like a monster. Also use the Motul 7100 on my inline 4 z900 and haven't had any of the shifting issues I had with the stock Kawasaki oil. I dont work for motul. Just saying its just a damn good oil!!
I use T6 in my 1995 Mercedes Benz E320. Absolutely no blow by or oil consumption. High zinc levels are perfect for older engines.
Get this! Since my V TWIN uses 5 quarts of oil I buy 1 4L of motul 7100 and add 1.25 quarts of Rotella T6. Lol!! Works awesome and 5000 miles before oil changes with a K&N filter. I save a couple dollars this way and I have had zero issues and smooth shifts. I may even mix both at 50/50 next time
I have used most oils in my cars but I recommend you take two flat knives like butter knives and put an oil to the test with less and less oil of your choice and rub the oil between your fingers. As you reduce the film you will see for yourself. Metal is metal. Also you can test viscosity with syringes but again it's not a measured lb ft but it may add to your knowledge. In my machine I used Motul 8100 because it increases mileage, sounds quieter. Why would you want more friction unless it's a clutch pack?
Both will do well but Motul wins when it comes slickness and smoothness feel of shifting. Hands down. And I change gears whole LOT........
Rotella T6 is not GRP 4 oil! its a grp 3 (fake synthetic / Hydrocrakced Dino oil) and MOTUL 300V is a GRP 5 Oil (100% Ester Oil)
Well, Canadian rider, the Blackstone UOA is a great way to check wear rates...Rotella will work fine for low stress Motorcycle motors... but for my money.. the gRP 5 esters have the most film strength and extreme stress protection... polyol ester is the best of the best.... in terms of bases.... additives can bridge the gap somewhat...but with POE'S, that stuff starts with 4 times more film strength than petroleum.... that big of difference can not be made up.... motor rebuilds are expensive...most all synthetics have more shear resistance.... which offsets some of the price difference...they do last longer...
+mike schlup Hi Mike thanks for the comment! I have looked at some Blackstone UOA for them and checked out the wear rates and yes definitely the esters have much better film strength then the traditional synthetic
+Canadian Rider . I have a friend and have been a customer of his since 1991... he had the patent on veggie oils...and is a real life tribologist... have grilled him for hours...the best oils on the market.. no matter who is on the label have POE'S as part of the base oil...all of the base oils have strengths and weaknesses... which is why you are finding PAO and POE in the better syn oils...if your motor is tight.. redline oil will keep it running longer...I like it the best.. have tried them ALL!!!.. could go on for days...thanks for the opportunity to educate... it is a fascinating subject!
I agree on Rotella T6. I run it in every engine I have: Harley Softail, SBC 355, Duramax, Kubota, standby gens, Mahindra, just to name a few. Interestingly enough, I used to run Valvoline syn in my SBC but developed small seal leaks before changing over to Rotella.
Big trucks and industrial engine generators etc. cost more than a Ducati. I work in the industrial emergency engine generators, these E/Gs come with many different engines; Detroit Diesel 2-stroke turbo-supercharged, down to 10hp gasoline. All these engines manufacturer specs including my R1200GS air/oil cooled motorcycle agree the Schell T6 15w-40 or 50 is a great oil.
My BMW has the dry clutch so I don't worry about that.
But people will always chime in on what they think are the best tires, oil, oil filters etc. it is just what people do.
2009 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1700 V-Twin. I live and ride mostly in South-Eastern USA. Hot, humid summers, unpredictable winters. Rotella T6 did well during winter. Valve lifters were noisy in summer. Lifters making that much noise are exploding themselves to pieces. Transmission noisy and shifting clunky. I switched back to Mobil 1 motorcycle specific. Motor and transmission became smooth, powerful again.
I would like to see a video of that. I find it hard to believe it's THAT bad, just asking for some proof.
Agreed
Agreed
Don’t believe it! I have ran Suzuki factory oil, then Lucas oil and last but not least Rottella T6 is the best oil! The last to oil changes Rottella T6 definitely the best gear changes, gas mileage and last but not least price! My bike 2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000 bought from dealer in 2017 still under 5 year Suzuki Warranty great bike.
never tried the t6 rotella yet.. but 300v is fantastic even put in my 125cc little rocket cagiva mito 7speed and vtwin GEN2 RSV1000RR.. still afraid to put in the rotella T6 (5-40 spec) since the vtwin needs 15-50 oil spec for its min requirement.. and i'm living in asia on daylight the temperature almost hit 41-42celcius.. at night around 30-33'c.. because of this matter i'm still thinking to use any '40' oil spec grade
In my SRT4 I run T6 with the silver can of "Engine Restorer" which I lroved thru a controlled test to have significant benefits in terms of compression being improved to maintained. So I get best of the best by using both. Now im going to be outting the same mixture into my R1, I expect nothing less than grattness. I daily 80 miles on the R1 and will see what happens over a year.
Update?
@@anthonyrodriguez5316 well the update is my buddy go on it 3 months ago and rode like an asshole and fucked my bike up. Never got to check the results. :( But I get it back this week and will find out.
I run Rotella t6 with half a quart of Lucas ,and love it
300v all around greatness
I use Shell Rotella 15W-40 in my 09 FZ6R. Runs great and shows no wear.
+JayzBeerz The right weight as well, the 15w-40 on the T6 seems to be the sweet spot with the best shear protection
Have you torn your engine down and had it inspected. I used to think this until I found out from engineers the truth. But hey run dyno oil from 1953 if that floats your boat.
2013 Ninja 300- 15k miles, 3-5k oil changes
2013 Ninja 636- 15k miles, 3-5k oil changes
2012 Daytona 675R- 37k miles, 3-5k oil changes
2016 CBR 1000RR- 18k miles, 3-5k oil changes
2010 VW GTI- 113k miles, 5-10k oil changes
All Rotella T4 miles with no issues. All vehicles except for Ninja 300 and GTI were street and track day bikes.
I noticed in my vtwin Rotella was great , but didn't last the entire length of the OIC before the shifting felt notchy
+Chris Free I also experienced the same shorter drain intervals
I hit 16k RPMs nearly all the time when I ride.. 16k RPM is pretty crazy so it needs the best. Now, sticking 300V into say a Prius would be dumb. No doubt Rotella would be better but sticking Rotella T6 that isn't ester into a 16k RPM bike is just going to make the bike wear faster and make compression less taking away the whole point of having a high-performance motorcycle. Sure it can cut the power down a bit after it gets damaged and save a high-side due to less power but it's wrong. :(
The biggest difference between automotive and motorcycle oil is sheer factor, most motorcycle transmissions are lubricated by the engine oil as the transmission is in the crankcase. Automotive oil does not have sheer additives because they don't have that type of gear train to lubricate, whereas diesel engines do. So I can see where the oil could work and be a cost effective alternative to engine specific oil. Personally I have used Castrol lubricants since I started driving, however I'm not sure what my motorcycle requires as I just got it and haven't got the factory service manual yet and it's my first Harley. I believe it actually takes 3 different oils, engine, primary drive and transmission. So it is quite different than most other bikes, it also has a dry sump system, where the oil doesn't remain in the engine it is pumped back to the oil tank. Most likely I will use the proper Castrol lubricant for each application and probably go with a K&N filter.
Automotive engines do have gears and/or chains, plus the cam lifters and often turbos. Car oils are very robust, too, but some of them don't play well with a wet clutch.
Me personally i have never been happy with the shift quality of shell rottella in any bikes i have owned. my 2017 vstrom absolutly hates infact. nothing but 7100 20w50 for it for the last 50'000 km, and I will run it the whole season, or around 10'000km with little if any shift degridation.
A few years ago a French motorcycle mag (Motoconso) published a comparison of motor oils used in motorcycles. Their tests were performed in the lab and in the real world. Without exception, the "motorcycle" oils fared less well (sometimes cponsiderably less well) than all the "car" oils. Some of those motorcycle oils actually failed pretty miserably. The very best oil in their tests was Carefour 5w50, which is the home brand of a large department store chain. That's like discovering that Motomaster 5w50 outperforms everything else. Any oil that is not energy saving will work in our bikes regardless of what manufacturers of expensive motorcycle oils would have us believe. Rotella is a great oil, but so is Motomaster (also made by Shell, btw). Motul is an utter waste of good money. It probably won't harm your engine as long as you avoid long change intervals, but it also won't provide any benefits.
Correction, it was Moto Magazine.
The 300V is designed for frequent OCIs because it is a racing oil. The designated for street use full synthetic from Motul is the 7100 series.
Exactly.
Kinda late, but damn. When I saw the "Carrefour 5w50" I lost it.
I had no idea Carrefour offered oil haha.
I used to run T6 in my FJR1300 with no issue. But when I ran it in my Versys about 3 years ago I had clutch slippage. I changed to Castrol Power 1 and the clutch was fine. So next change I thought I'd try T6 again, and the clutch was slipping again under high RPMs. So I changed back to the Castrol and it was fine. I know a lot of people have been running T6 without issue for years, but I've also been reading a lot lately about something changing in the formula, because it seems more people are experiencing slipping clutches. I'm going to stick with the Castrol Power 1, my bike shifts are super smooth with it.
Castrol Power 1 Racing? They launched a new product Castrol Power 1 Ultimate.
@@tridip.chakraborty In the US, it's just labeled as Castrol Power 1. And I looked up the ultimate version and it looks like it's not available in the US.
@@jhooton75 ohh. Actually it was launched few months back last MotoGP season with LCR Honda Team Cal 35
The guy I purchased my CBR 600 RR recommended using T6. I just did an oil change yesterday with T6. I am an Amsoil fan and am thinking about using their motorcycle oil next and see if there is a difference.
Let me know what you find, but I think T6 is an all around great performer.
I think so too, some others on some CBR forums mentioned Amsoil made their engine smoother so I was thinking about trying it.
After research I found this, both Rotellas don't live long in motorcycle engine, after two thousand k they loose 37% of initial viscosity compare with motul 300v only 7%. The transmission in your bike crush it. Motul oil has different oil base.
That's crazy. 37% lost?!
People have no clue what they talking about.
th-cam.com/video/4lcXZj6TmpU/w-d-xo.html try this link, chart is shown at 9.16
My dealer charges $88 for a Motul 300v oil change for my GSX-R 750.
I've used Rotella on all my other bikes with no issue's but I guess my GSX-R is my baby and she does see high rpm's & heat (I live in Florida) often so I spend the extra money, gear changes seem smoother I will say with Motul.
+Christopher James makes sense that is an amazing price for motul 300 with the service
i do want to say, the superquadro motor require 50 weight oil. There is so much pressure in that engine. If you are riding on the street only, I think 5w-40 is ok, but track and race. I definitely stay with 10w-50 or 15w-50.
definitely for track use I would stick with the 50 weight.Oil weight has a lot to do with your geography as well. I have seen lots of people run the 5w40 stuff on the Panigale for street use just fine. Do you have any experience with either of these oils ?
+Canadian Rider Yes, I've used T6 on my 2010 R1 for 28k miles. Great oil for sure. All my Subaru friends run T6 and love it. I own a 2014 Panigale R but haven't put T6 inside due to the fact the engine tolerance is super strict. I live in New England, so it doesn't affect me as much as far as weight of the oil goes, its more of a personal preference. That's why I run Castrol 4RS 10w-50 on the R. Great oil that cost less than Motul. My Ducati dealership here in NH recommend Motul but I can't justify the cost per oil change. Therefore I'm sticking to Castrol for now. Though, I wouldn't mind using T6 if my bike isn't used on the track half the time.
How do you like T6 on your 899? Do you notice any difference? Have you ran track with T6 yet?
+Chris Chen Great to hear about your results on T6. I have not run T6 on the 899 yet, but I have run it on my Ninja 250 and cars all without a problem. I will be using Motul 300v on the Panigale on the first oil change, getting an analysis done then next change with T6 and will compare both oil analysis results from Blackstone Labs
Canadian Rider any update?
Analysis sent to blackstone with the T6. Waiting on results
Rotella T6 in my GSX-R 750
I use T6 in my kawi zx9R and have no problem at all my bike even shifts better with the T6 than the belray and it's less money for more oil 40 bucks for 5 litres or 80 bucks for 4 litres .the duck will love the t6 for the price you can change it more often .note T6 is a full synthetic oil with a certified label on the jug.
👍Rottela T6 & T5 are #1 w/ All my Diesels & Now using it on my Gas SYV & MiniVan
Plz Post any Noticeable differences w/MotuL
T6 is cheaper and MOTUL is grear, but yours is just cheap talking. I have used both from race bikes to BIG generators. We need lab test, not talking
I found the lab test for t6 and t4 in Russia for motorcycle engines. Both oils lost 37% of initial viscosity at the 4000k compare to Motul 300 only 7%. I got problems with clutch in both of my motorcycles within 2000km range.
@@trimor234sholder7 Link to the results?
@@marcs2652 here is the chart for T-6 motorcycle oil test.
th-cam.com/video/4lcXZj6TmpU/w-d-xo.html
Check 9.17min of the video.
FYI Ester is gonna give you good gunk means you use it for 700miles to 1000 if ridden hard. T6 commuting pushing here and there for any bike. Some run it 5k I ran it for 3k but in my ZX10 the T6 wasn't smooth transmission. Used Motul 5100 semi in the 10r at 140f track temp it surprised the Hell out of me with how the tranny was so spring crisp. The 10r destroys oil. So I ran it 3k and always good just the trans wasn't as smooth. In the 335i bmw Castrol was destroyed after 5k. Mobil one the same. T6 was 5k could push 7k. Only Liquid molly was true 10k. Overall T6 for anything unless you feel transmission isn't crisp.
T6 its science! Give it a break people, Brands have to compete, T6 is what you need - Bonus - Get engine break in additive to up the Zinc! T6 in my 87 supra turbo and 2002 Aprilia Caponord - flawless
Another T6 fan :)
Terrence LP
Too much Zinc has been proven to attack iron grain structures...there is a balance
Hey did rotella change the bottle cause I can't find the 5w40 anywhere
Rotella T6 now comes with the MA2 certification as well. It's all I use in my Ducati.
Yep! Shell had to redo the chemistry with it for the new diesels and lower the saps. The T4 is not longer JASO MA approved from what I seen. I use the Rotella in just about every motorcycle I own.
Interesting what you said about synthetics foaming as today I changed out the Mobil 1 4t 10-40 racing oil out of my ninja 1k and noticed it was really foamy/soapy. Can you tell me more about this?
Yes basically the oil begins to foam at high working temperature and thus losing its ability to protect the engine from heat and wear. you need to ensure you get a oil that has properties to resist this. This is mainly a problem for track bikes pushed to the limits
Had to switch back to 300v on my zx14r. I had clutch slippage with t6.
@Kaven Gilbert update! It wasn't the t6 oil. It was the cheap aftermarket clutch lever keeping the clutch ingaged ever so slightly:(
@@daverae7544 so did you go back to the t6? please update us.
@@agentofenhanced2428 haven't switched back until my next oil change.
what you think about using Amsoil ?
I use castrol power 1 4T synthetic , use anything that is made for motorcycles and ride...screw everything else
Did you see a difference from switching the Ducati recommended Shell oil to the Motul 300v oil? Which do you think is better?
Honestly the only difference you will see between these oils is in track use. 300v is actually made for track use specifically. If you are just riding on the street I would go with another oil, like Motul 7100 or Shell.
at least you took the time to make the video
So you are smarter than the engineers that developed your motorcycle? That's what you are telling me? Show me on your owners manual were they recommend diesel oil in your Ducati.
t6 is great oil--but another shell product is better, in my book--pennzoil platinum plus is made from natural gas and is more uniform in size and seems to last longer than t6--also i always add a little gear lube to my oil change, in my bikes, to do a better job of coating surfaces and help the gearbox work better. gear lube is loaded with numerous additives and anti foaming agents too.
That is a brilliant idea! GL-4 or GL-5? Do bikes have brass synchronizers or is it a concern?
Use a motorcycle oil that has the right oil classifications and viscosity that the manufacture calls for. You wouldn't put motorcycle oil in your diesel engine then why would diesels oil in your motorcycle?
For most motorcycles t6 rotella is good option some engines like bmw bikes require no moly oils which there is few. Bmw oil and castrol power 1 4t.
Would you recommend 5W40 Rotella T6 for a 1997 3000GT VR4(110K miles), would it be safe for the engine with this oil year round in Alberta climate?
Thanks!
You can use it if you are going to change it every thousand kilometers, Rotella t6 viscosity lost is 37% in motorcycle engines
Manuel castellon
Yes,
It’s running good with no issues!
You spent $90 (I'm assuming CAD) on Motul 300v? You can get it on Amazon for around $65 CAD.
looks like I paid a little more than I had to, thanks for the update looks like a good price for 300 V
$69.99 at 613 motorsports in Ottawa Canada.
That's all I've ever used is 300v and I've never ever had one of my race bikes have any kind of problems that is the best bike oil and I ride my bikes but take very great care of them zx10r change oil every 1000 miles Husqvarna fc 350 race bike change every hr and my bikes run forever and run amazing 👏
Depends on the engine you are using it in, some require a 'racing ' oil even if your not racing as hi performance engines differ from other engined such as twin cylinder 500cc Honda compared to a V4 1000cc engine from Aprilia.
Funny, that is my question, should I run T6 in my Honda Pioneer 500 UTV? My mechanic buddy swears by factory oils or Motul. Thx
@@feeshermann726 I run rotella in my teryx 800 and everything else never any problems
I have several motorcycles, I been used over 15 years, t6 is great oil!
Completely agree
Me and my brother have been using it for years and never any issues, i even had a chunk of road debris bust my oil pan at about 120+ mph dumped all my oil on the HW and took about 1/2 mile to get stopped cause it ripped my brakes out also so I engine braked to a stop and after rebuilding put another 9k on it with rotella, combined we have easy 35k between 4 bikes on rotella
Glad to hear you have had the same success Cody! Welcome to the channel and thanks for sharing this for others
Just don't use T6 in something with old school flat tappet cams. Not enough ZDDP in T6. The ester tech film properties Motul could make up for low ZDDP levels. I doubt any current bike manufactures still use flat tappets. I've used Motul in bkes for years and now on my wife's FR-S. Royal Purp High Performance Street (over 1200 ppm ZDDP) in my straight 6 Jeep TJL.It never hurts to look for a better mousetrap.
I used Motul once and it is good, but I like to feel my clutch engage. Motul you don't even feel it which some prefer, but not me. Plus its expensive and I ride a lot.
If you got the money then go with motul but otherwise Rotella T6 is a fan favorite
How do you have a 5 liter jug of the Rotella T6? I've only seen 1 Gallon (3.78 liters) Are you in the states? I am unable to find that anywhere...?
Well I am from Canada so maybe they have the 5 liter jug here
My Dad knew the guys who invented T6 in the 80's at the Paulsboro NJ plant. They literally invented synthetic oil. Nothing but good things to say about this oil.
Synthetic oil was invented way before the 80's. The Germans were using it in WW2.
@@JunkCCCP Yes it was a joke they say they invented synthetic...they did however invent the T6 formula and I use it in about everything from my street bike, 700xx, to my lawnmower and pressure washer. My dad however with a Cummins diesel uses Mobil 1, go figure.
looking at a powertoy, it specifies SG or higher, JASO MA. I don't see the SG ratings and can't find it on the shell site. I see lots of C... ratings, must be specific to diesel?
Your right, one just has to look in your owners manual for high performance gasoline motors where Jaso MA or MA2 is spec. T6 doesn’t have it and is specifically designed for Diesel engines. Will T6 work, sure but why risk it, oil is cheap compared to a motor.
@@TheIrongutz yes... I've been running Castro 4t in the wheelers and bikes it indeed carries the jaso rating
I got starter clutch replaced after 2k using T4 Rotella on Vmax, and first gear clutch slippage on v45 Magna, its could be just a coincidence.
Using rotella t6 messes un the catalytic converter. That what I read, dunno if true.
omg you dont know anything. you shouldnt be giving advise on oil you know nothing about. motul V300 is a DI-ester it is a GROUP 5 synthetic. group 4 is PAO or poly alpha olefin
group5 are extra sticky. (why did you say that) its main benefit is resistance to SHEAR. and HIGHER HEAT.
you can say sorry now
For a start the viscosity is different, and that's probably the biggest downside to the Rosella.
It's the wrong viscosity for most European motorcycles, so if you think you know better than the factory that design and build the bike go right ahead and use it
Motul is ester based, so it's group five.
The diesel trucks on the road delivering all the merchandise you & I buy, work harder than any vehicles on the roadways! MILLIONS of miles!
"IF YOU GOT IT, A TRUCK BROUGHT IT!"
and someone is really gunna argue if a diesel oil is better or not? I run Schaefer in my 2020 Tacoma & would in my bike if it was JASO approved but its not so Rotella it is.
Just made the switch to motul 300v from rotella t6 on my 2016 zx14... the new t6 is different, I've been using t6 for a really long time on my cbr1000rr with no problems, now it's causing my clutch to slip
+Ian Oconer really. What weight ?!
Canadian Rider if I'm not mistaken 15-40
+Ian Oconer so was that the same weight as the motul 300v using?
Canadian Rider yep same weight, bike has 4K miles... find it hard too believe something is wrong with the clutch
Ian Oconer that is so odd. I'm going to assume you're going to switch back to motul 300 then in your case? Can you please report back and see if the problem has stopped?
dude im confused... why some rottella bottles says engine diesel .. and some just heavy duty .... i dont understand ... my bike is not diease why should i use a diesel oil ???
It is rated for diesel engine use, and is also rated for motorcycle engine use JASO MA and M2. This pil is rated for many different applications, but they market it for diesel use
Oil for diesel engines need to handle high temperature, with bikes, high reving, ripping on the cannon, will be hot very fast. Heat resident is one of the key why the t6 a good oil for motorcycle
How about Supertech motorcycle oil guys?
I'll have to double check the specification but it needs to meet certain motorcycle oil specifications
How about petrocanada duron e - synthetic 10-40 ..
I run it in everything and never had any problems
Same here Ron. Still great 👍
Ok, here is results for Rotella T-4 15w-40 on Honda Magna v45 and Yamaha vmax. After 2000k I replaced a starter clutch on vmax due to excessive wear and clutch on the Magna started to make distinctive clink on the first gear. After oil replacement with motul brand the clunk miraculously disappeared.
Rotella in all my bikes without any problems at all
my $50K Ducati V4 Speciale and my $25K BMW S10000RR only get Motul 300V in their crank case, and changed every 3000miles!
If I did that, I would only do one oil change every 6 years.
300v only for my bike.. Ill pay extra for neon green peace of mind
Do you use the shell rotella on your Ducati ?
no I use the motul 300v for my first oil change