First I was wondering how much power can a 50cc give, but now I am just curious how much patience can a man have? Battle of the machine versus human. Good luck human!
Lmao well I'm not Alex but iv been on my compound turbo 155cc for 12+yrs doing the same type of thing over and over again. I'd say the first 4 single turbo setups got scrapped Early on and I probably went back and forth between Fi and blow through carb for 6yrs. By year 6 the bike made 78whp... 6yrs and an extra turbo later were around my 100whp goal.. this last year has been making a bike that works with the powerplant to actually get the bike out of the hole lol no mentions small engines with lots of boost don't make hardly any power once they fall out of boost lol. Alex is a wiser smarter and better tooled than me so I'd say he has more patients too but I understand his pain. I love that he shows this r&d work no one does and I suck at filming lol.
@@mrsnezbit2219 sound about right but mine is my car. 1994 w202 220c manual i adopted after it had sat on friends yard for 5years without use. He was selling that house so i gave him 300€ for it. Engine runs insanly good for 350tkm and doesnt eat any oil. I mean it doesnt drop in a year at all. If it does there is a leak lol. (One it had was crank rear seal. I got to change gear box front seal too) now its only paint and new as they come. Everthing has been done. Breaks,springs,dampers,bottom rusts,intake seals,engine wirings, clutch stuff from breakfluid tank to gearbox, fuel lines. Its a great car and i have spent around 600-700€ Max for everthing including rent for warm garage with lifts. I enjoy doing stuff for this one.
Even though there is lots of trouble shooting, I must say the engine itself really are holding up well now. I would recommend mounting temp sensors in the exhaust and inside the crankcase, maybe it could help monitor unburnt fuel. As well as monitor temp of intake, 1 bar of pressure also is starting to add temp on the intake side.
Literally just thought the same thing and came here to say it. The amount of s*** tunes, poor operating temps and whatever else our boy throws at it and she just keeps on ticking. Anybody know what rod, piston and crank he's using in this setup? It's crazy to think how much horsepower they were getting out of 50cc two strokes back in the 60s and 70s. I heard stories of Honda getting insane numbers double what our buddy here has put out so far. This is still quite an impressive setup for a garage LOL. We need to start a GoFundMe to get this dude some safety glass
Give it to a 16 year old in a moped & see how long it lasts....it's really only been tickled on the dyno & not properly loaded...compared with previous attempts it's more robust though..but all relative.
Dude you've got a 2stroke ,all your port are open a the same time so the mixture is going in you exhauste, logic, you need to get exhauste valve or a pipe with big big big effect to counter the pressure You're pipe is disigned to work at atmospheric pressure in the pipe and out. You need to designe a pipe for your case With bigger boost you got even mor mixture in your pipe and not in your engine So bigger flamethrower and less pipe effect , you forgot the essential of a 2stroke!!!!
Friday was before I fell in love with this channel. It's Stuffingday now. The videography, music choice and ambience are just second to you, your projects and the flair the entire thing has overall. Love your work and thank you so much for bringing it to us for free
I really appreciate your direct handling of Established Titles. Your assessment is right on with what I read on their site. The problem is that the approved language from Established Titles didn't specifically call out "this is a souvenir, it does not confer any legal land ownership".
Add to that that the old custom is referring to land owners as a laird/lord/lady. As established, you don't actually own the land in any legal sense so their language doesn't make sense
I also liked his take.. I mean when it came out as a "scam".. I was thinking.. Obviously you aren't actually getting any land and it's just a fun gag. But I guess a lot of people really thought they could send some random company 50$(which realistically buys a wheel barrel of potting soil anywhere else) and get a piece of land in scotland..
@@vincentguttmann2231 Even if you did own a small part of land, it only relates to an entire registered estate and the single title associated with that estate, not small chunks of the same estate. This scam has been running for decades, previously as the "Laird of Camster". Lord Lyon Court - the legal authority on titles in Scotland - has repeatedly warned people not to get drawn into these scams, there is no lawful title.
I think after a certain rpm the 'seal' from the back pulse from the exhaust is overwhelmed by the blower and now the combustable mixture is passing strait through the combustion chamber which is ignited in the pipe causing the flame thrower so the trick is to balance the back pressure pulse from the exhaust and blower. The pain and hard work will be worth it! Great video again!
That's a good suggestion, I wonder if redesigning the resonation frequency in the exhaust pipe (give a steeper angle on the reflector of the pipe) and maybe a smaller tip could help increase the back pressure.
exactly..... I just don't know how you can balance the back pressure of unburnt fuel. I think the easiest answer is fuel injection, more particularly direct injection.
@@chadcoady9025 direct injection would be pretty game changing but right now doesnt his setup still use the fuel to oil the rotating assembly? If he tried to use direct injection he would lose all the lubrication
Just a thought have you got a pyrometer that you can put just out of the exhaust port and a port for crankcase pressure ? Exhaust temperature tells a big story. I don’t know how much your fuel cools things but if you have the engine at evaporation point or above that should help with atomism. What is the design temperature for your motor if it does not have enough heat the clearance will be all over the place . Just the musings of a retired mechanic, love what you are doing keep it up you will eventually get there . Cheers from Australia
I know it sounds like the opposite of what most people do with their (already developed) engines, but could you pre heat the incoming fuel and/ or air to help it vaporize and increase volatility. When you spill glow fuel on your hand, it's amazing how cold it becomes as it evaporates. It's almost painful when it's cold out 😅. The acetone could help in this regard. It's a common trick to add acetone to glow fuel in cold climates to help for starting, although it's not something I've ever done. Also, the amount of oil in that fuel is probably about 18-20% by volume (not sure about your specific fuel). That's about 5:1. I know it's safe, but it's probably quite excessive. Ignition and vaporisation might improve with reduced oil quantity. I don't know if you'll read this, but your doing an awesome job with this engine. With perseverance like this, I'm sure you'll set your record👍.
Before the carb you've got an 90 degree, which at low RPM (low airflow, low airspeed) gives you a uniform flow. At high RPM (high airflow, high air speed), most of the airflow will be concentrated outside the bend. You might have a simple mechanical fluid problem on top of any other problem. (In ventilation system, we recommend at least 2.5 x (the duct size) of straight pipe before a fan so that we don't starve it. Try the same for your carb. Give it a uniform flow accross the RPM range by puting a straight section of pipe in front of the carb.
I love watching you slowly chip away at getting this engine to where u want it. The iterative process your going thru on this channel is real engineering at its finest. Your content is gold Alex!!! I'll be right here, waiting for your next video to drop.
Our boy literally just got on a plane to go by pulleys. Haha love it. That's the best part about this channel. S*** that would take other people weeks and they would make multiple videos about this guy gets done in one week. It's awesome when you're halfway through and he's throwing out troubleshooting ideas and you know he's going to get to him before the end of the vid
It is normally 1 or 2 days for packages to come from Iceland to Norway then 3weeks for the packages to arrive to my house the post service in Norway is a joke.
this might be the only channel on youtube that doesnt get any hate in the comments, and theres a good reason for it, theres nothing to hate on, this is amazing! keep it up man, youll get it!!
I have to say out of all Channels I subscribe to I look forward to your video uploads the most and am completely blown away by how much abuse that little engine can take! Keep pushing forward you’re going to get this thing dialed in I am very confident of that.
A couple of years ago i did a lot of reading about turbocharging snowmobiles, the best explanation i found by some who have had success was to fool the engine that it was not!! Normal pressure in pipe as NA 0,3-0,4 give or take. Supercharged pipe pressure= boost+normal pipe pressure. I hope that makes sense... Kämpa på från Sverige!!!!!!
Now that you are super-charged, and have good fuel flow and ignition... you should make a telescopic section of the exhaust pipe between the flange and the start of the expansion chamber. Adding or removing length between the head and the chamber will drastically change the fluid dynamics of the charged air pulse as well as the exhaust scavenging effects. I would guess (judging by the fireballs) that you would want to start your expansion chamber closer to the head, and perhaps (due to volumetric efficiencies) increase it's size to that of an 80-100cc (maybe 150cc) engine's tuning requirements.
I agree, when this pipe was run on this engine it achieved 18,300 rpm pulling the retarder using the roots blower and speedway carb. I feel the problems experienced are down to lack of correct fuel atomisation, the finer the droplets quicker the burn. Alex has a collection of expansion chambers, it just takes time to do it, As Alex has stated he'll do it his way as he likes sorting problems. The question is, why does the Roots/speedway carb work and not the Rotrex/Lectron.
The pipe should be longer at lower rpm, and shorter at higher rpm. This is because the time between events is shorter or high rpm, so the distance the wave travels should be shorter.
Agree. And it needs a actuator moving it at different rpm. Coool:) Mounting the carb on suction side of turbo would help vaporizing fuel and lot less complexity, also it will work as intended? Fuel will also act like intercooler.
I love cars, I love motorcycles, I love computers and tech even more...but this channel completely changed my mind in my view of everything. In hardest of times, I grab a meal and a drink, I sit and watch a two stroke scream for mercy. This is way better then any mental help you can get! Cheers mate!
I'm so happy to hear your take on the Established Title drama. I thought the exact same thing as you. Frankly, I wouldn't think twice about running more ads with a nudge and a wink and the word novelty inserted. Might as well take their money, I say!
Maybe try other pipes and see if the rpm at which it goes haywire changes in order to rule out pipe tuning. Also, I agree with several others here that you should add a resistor for ignition pickup. Super stoked about the build, keep it up! Cheers from Sweden
You can get a thermocouple that goes under the spark plug like an o ring to get a better idea of cylinder/head temp. Search for “spark plug thermocouple”. Good luck tuning!
As someone here in Scotland, I think if you want to help reforest our country there are plenty of charities dedicated to this that are not based on the other side of the globe and put a lot more of the donated cash into the reforestation 'cause'. As for wanting to be "The Laird" - I guess it takes all sorts to make a World!
Thanks for all the hard work and effort you've put in! When running the Roots blower you found the best pressure to be 1.1 bars with the stinger attached.
@@malcrandall1309 Piston is fighting boost pressure on the downwood stroke Direct the boost straight into the transfer ports and have a vaccume in the crankcase Free horsepower
The problem is that you'd want it in reverse compared to a normal cvt You want a taller gear at low rpm and a shorter one at the redline to even the boost curve
I think we need a restriction at the exhaust port, for three reasons: 1-To assist the pressure wave coming back up the pipe in sealing the chamber. The only answer to stopping the pulsejet is to hold the fuel where you want it burning. We're running the PIP cylinder at the moment, right? So perhaps the closest we could get is choking the inlet to the pipe itself, creating a pressure differential to trap the mixture. 2-Increasing dynamic boost pressure heats the mixture more, as well as spending longer in the warm crankcase. The stinger/pipe being the system restriction concentrates the highest energy differential there, and ignition is coming from upstream. Moving that point upstream to the edge of the head may help decrease the volume that the supercharger "feels like" it is filling, lifting those boost numbers that have always been a little low. 3-It's really easy to test!
3 very good points IMO Dan! the 3rd one especiallyI Things simply can't be pipe dreams they have to be practical to allow installation and testing. If I may first say this engine/expansion chamber with correct stinger fed by the Roots blower/ speedway carb achieved 18300 RPM with 15 degrees of timing pulling the retarder and climbing in rpm before backing the throttle off. I feel we need to remember this. Whats changed? the S/C and carb that's all! The roots blower ran pull through from the speedway carb which had lots of testing time under it's belt. It also ran the engine upto 1.1 bars of boost while the Rotrex/ Lectron runs blow through! What's the difference? well there's no fuel/Air mixing from the supercharger for one. The Roots used to smash the fuel droplets to a fine mist. The finer the mist the quicker the burn. Secondly. The Roots produced 1.1 bars of boost pressure, what does the Rotrex produce under load. Thirdly, the lectron has a reducer in the back passage. I feel this is not helping fuel atomisation! My conclusion as I have stated many times in these comments is this. The fuel droplets are simply to large to burn sufficiently in such a short time. The fuel/air mixture needs to be finer to burn quicker. Finally the piston only travels approximately 1 inch down the bore under pressure before the exhaust port opens ending the power stroke. The fuel needs burning completely in this time. At 19k, the resonant frequency of this pipe there are 316 power strokes per second, thats a lot! That's it from me Dan my finger hurt's. I'll say it again, you made good points.
@@malcrandall1309 I'm all the way there with you regarding a previous setup running to 18300, I think that was an electronically imposed limit as well. I have a feeling that was on gas, but I could be wrong. I'm also sure that the ignition system has changed dramatically, and that the drag from the supercharger isn't applied in the same manner as a roots blower would be. My understanding is that drag on a centrifugal supercharger is a function of oil viscosity, air density and then rolling resistance. In fact I'm positive the roots setup was petrol, I remember Alex saying something about changing to blow through for the sake of running nitro safely. Leading to the next interesting point I found that ties in with yours, the flame front speed of nitro is about 0.5m/s. The piston travels 79cm in a second at 19k, and only "half" of that makes power. I'm not positive we're at the ignition limit of the fuel, but it is getting worrying if the nitro mix is high. I agree that atomization is important, but short of reducing crankcase volume or heating the charge air (neither of which are conducive to more power) I don't see another good option. I'm not convinced that the carb reducer is hurting, it should increase the flow through the venturi tube by increasing the speed of the air across the venturi. You may be right that this is the cause of improper atomisation though, I'm not really a carby guy.
@@maccadan90I have gone back and rewatched it twice and can see no evidence of the roots and speedway carb using petrol. I know the fuel system is flushed out with petrol at the end of the day but run on RC fuel! Petrol has being used while using the Rotrex on a couple of test runs with the Lectron. As far as the ignition goes it was running the single channel system. I have read in the comments that Alex is going to give Petrol a proper try this coming week but retain the Lectron. The only reason the Roots blower was ditched was he'd lost confidece with it binding and the resonant pulses it produced This Rotrex saps a lot of power fom such a tiny 50cc engine as we know. Alex also mentioned in the comments he'd found the reason why the Rotrex was serging as it was and a bit miffed that he missed it.
@@malcrandall1309 It's true, I could be misremembering things re fuel used with the roots blower. Agreed that the final nail in its coffin was the binding though. Also agreed that a centrifugal supercharger cannot form those destructive interference pulses. I agree that the Rotrex is draining power, but I'm positive that as long as boost is generated while torque is high enough to support it, there shouldn't be a problem. I'm going to have to dig out all the old mass air flow equations I've got buried on this PC and run Alex's bore dimensions through them, see what flow and target speed I arrive at. I'm almost positive there's a drive pulley solution to match the result. Even with all this extra thought in the background, I'm still a strong advocate for choking the exhaust port at the side of the head. The old backpressure=power myth might finally prove true in this unique application.
@@maccadan90 What we must remember this engine has done 18k in a previous configuration, this cannot be overlooked! This exhaust duct is a bit radical with it's shape. If the fuel/air was completely burnt by the time the exhaust port opens there would be no chance of internal burning in the expansion chamber. There have being several of us who suggested going back to basics using N/A and petrol, this was forcably ruled out by Alex so appears he may have changed his mind! There are still quite a few problems to resolve with the retarder/dyno equipement. We musn't forget these crackcases have a massive volume of 390cc and made to run with a 90mm con rod which lowers the primary compression ratio. Back in the early 70's when I used to race 125 twin cylinder Yamaha's tuners of the time wasn't concerned with primary compression. This did not sit right with me especially when I was paying them to do a job! I fully plugged the flywheels which was common practice and along with epoxy putty a noticable performance increased was gained. I feel the massive capacity of Alex's crankcases is detrimental to performance no matter what induction is used. When I suggested reducing the crankcase volume with epoxy putty Alex had a public go at me saying he will do what he chooses and who can fault him. Things have being smothed over thankfully, I have only wished good fortune on Alex. Let's wait and see what tomorrow afternoon brings. I just hope he remembers to drill a couple of lubrication holes in the piston face over the exhaust bridge.
You ask the right questions. Your comparison of 2 stroke port timing to 4 stroke overlap is spot on. You are going to have to change the exhaust port timing. There is the obvious way to do that, but there are probably ways that I have not considered. You cannot make cylinder pressure with that much overlap. Damn, you are really quite a smart guy. I will be very interested to see your solutions. Peace and best wishes.
Every fuel has a flame front speed. As you increase revs you need to increase the timing advancement to give the fuel more time to burn, In this video you proved the point when you set the advance timing back to 30 Degress at the higher revs
It's a bit different with 2 strokes because their scavenging efficiency changes so much with rpm. Often at low speeds the scavenging is poor and the charge heavily diluted with exhaust, this leads to slow combustion so they need more advanced timing at low to mid speeds. At full throttle and high speed scavenging is good and mixture turbulence is high, so they may need less advance than you expect. Also you can't advance too much or the spark will fire before the exhaust port closes.
Hi Alex, outstanding, looks like you got the carb pretty much under control, good job. Was just thinking about what was going on with the pipe spitting flames at various times. My personal opinion is that the pipe is coming on as the charge velocity comes up in the higher rpm range. Methanol has a long burn time as you know, and the time the engine has to compress and ignite and burn the mixture at high rpm has to be minute. The same thing would happen to us when we were racing 100cc two strokes, but it would burn the top edge of the piston and scorch the exhaust port. All we did if our timing was correct for what we wanted was, lengthen the distance between the piston and the first cone of the pipe, it changed the timing of the pipe/resonance of exhaust slug verses port timing. I’m sure you already know that. You are on the right track, with adding some acetone, ignites the charge faster. If it were me, lengthen the pipe, piston to first cone and begin adding small amount of acetone at a time. I still think there are gains to be made in the carb, my opinion, throttle response seems to be lacking, more of Venturi/ restriction for better pressure differential. Just wondering if your two stroke software will calculate the time available for the power cycle to take place? I’m really wondering how your engine would act on fast igniting gasoline with different carb, just a thought. Keep at it! Great job! Can’t wait for next week!
I still say you should baseline without the supercharger first, then once you're happy the way it runs and you know what power it makes add the rotrex and go from there. The other thing I'm thinking (and might have missed it in your series), maybe have a good known engine hooked up to the dyno and verify it is working properly.
Without the supercharger you would have little to no scavenging and would have to redesign the entire engine. Like running a Detroit diesel without a blower
I watched this video again and observed the following: 1) The maximum cylinder head temperature for all the runs was about 70 deg. C (some were much lower)-in my opinion this is much to cold for the nitrated fuel that you're using. 2) The maximum ignition advance for all of the runs was 30 degrees (some less)-not nearly enough advance for the nitrated fuel being used-less than most would use with a similar gasoline-fueled 2-stroke engine. 3) When the "pulse-jet" action began from the tuned pipe, the instrument measuring BARs began an irregular fluctuation between about 0.8 and 1.4. In my opinion, this probably indicated that the air-fuel charge from the crankcase was short-circuiting wildly from the cylinder's transfer ports... and out through the exhaust port (again, in my opinion, this is due to poorly atomized, non-vaporized, slow burning fuel, which has way too much lubrication percentage that is not contributing to the burning process). 4) Your stated intent to use an accelerant with this nitrated fuel should be performed with extreme caution. As with propylene oxide and hydrazine (unobtainium) before it, acetone can and will produce melted pistons, plugs, etc. (even if the A/F approaches the stoichiometric-chemically correct). Suggestion: As mentioned a few days ago, the best way that I know to heat the boosted (blow-through) air and fuel mixture in the crankcase and turn it into a vapor is to use one or two 12 volt electric surface heaters (1/2 inch diameter, or less) and pre-heat the case to about 100 deg. C. After start-up, when the engine's head temperature stabilizes at roughly 130 deg. C, turn off the crankcase heat; It won't be needed because the combusting nitrated fuel will maintain the head temp... providing the engine's compression ratio is close to being correct-an easy fix nonetheless 5) Remove the tuned pipe; it's doing nothing but confusing the real issues of this engine. Last but not least: you NEED to install A/F instrumentation. All of the needless guesswork is prolonging what should be a straight-forward determination of... is the fuel mixture too rich or too lean? If you provide the glow fuel's ingredients, I'm certain there are followers of this Channel who can do the relatively simple calculations for both the stoichiometric and peak-power A/F. Actually, it doesn't matter if you use any of the suggestions from me or those from others ... it's still fun to watch your trials and tribulations. Best of luck!
Thanks for the input! No time to form a proper reply atm, sorry. I'm going back to basics in the upcoming vid, tackle any "conventional" issues, then add in the unknowns one by one. Also, while digitizing the compressor map for simulations I realized the compressor has probably been surging pretty much the whole time, changing drive ratio did not help... Never paid much attention to the surge line, stupid.
Can I make a suggestion. Test to failure. Pistons are cheap. Advance the ignition timing to 40 degrees and do one run before extreme heat does damage. It will be easier for combustion to start as the cylinder pressure will be lower and spark plug performance less likely to be variable. Also do not persevere with a well used plug. Use new plugs say every 5 runs or similar.
I ran a 250cc 2 stroke micro sprint on 100% alchohol with a smaller radiator than your using on a 50cc. My engine didnt make any power untill it got near 200 degrees (f)
Without an exhaust valve or exhaust restriction your boost goes out the exhaust pipe(flames}. The engine will act rich but actually be lean {poor BSFC} and boost pressure will be lower. Power will be not much better than NA without it. The exhaust port is still open when the transfers close so boost bleeds out the exhaust. love the channel and your ideas!
@@g.g4816 Really? I mention this to him because I did this experiment 30 years ago. You can not increase cylinder filling from boost pressure if the exhaust port is still open after the transfers close with out a mechanical or pressure device to hold the charge in. Pipe dynamics will get you 3-4 psi is all.
much respect for addressing the established title ordeal. Gimme the gps location/address of the land if you can and ill go visit it and take photos for you if it does exists, im always traveling round Scotland delivering motorbikes and i would personally like to see it for myself as well in case i am wrong. Loving your build! Have you thought about playing around with an exhaust power valve system instead of an intake valve like the rotax 122/123 engines have? Your system reminds me of aprilias Rave 2 power valve system. (the solenoid version) I cant help but think if an intake based valve was better all the manufacturers would of gone that route. Surly you want to control the flow out of the engine instead of into the engine? the carburetor already moderates the intake so your intake valve seems a little counter intuitive. Its like putting a carburetor in front of a carburetor that isnt adding fuel. On that note, i wonder how 2x stacked blow though carburetors would behave :P
Once you get it dialed I'd love to run that in my YSR50! Love your channel, as a gearhead myself its awesome to see the entire process you are going through!
Normal/optimal coolant temperatures for internal combustion engines is between 75 - 105 celsius, so it seems that you are still very low.... also does the inverted cylinder design not promote hotter crankcase temperatures...?
I think Nitro RC car engines like about 100 Celsius. This is mabe more like an rc nitro engine than a gas 2-stroke that way? Tho it has piston rings, so mabe not. Don’t know. Would try even more heat in the cooling system. To about 90c and just see what happens. Might just have to be sure the ring gaps can handle the heat expansion. I don’t know. Love this channel!! My favorite in fact! Looking forward to The next vid!! 😁🏁🤟🏼
on older two stroke (diesel) compressor engines they have a spoiler on top of the piston to redirect the flow from the intake ports up toward the roof of the cilinder instead of straight across the piston and out the exhaust , i suspect this is happening at higher tpms , either that of the exhaust pipe is collecting excess fuel and at a certan rpm the gasses that arent burned fully yet shoot out the exhaust igniting the gasses in the pipe think the best thing to do is to introduce the fuel directly intoo the chamber after the ports are closed same as with a diesel but with a spark ignition (has been done with modern cars , its called direct injection and uses pretty high pressures) , might stilll allow the engine to rev faster than the flamefront is able to move but at least there whont be unburned gas collected in the pipe might need to get a bigger stroke smaller bore engine to allow the gasses more time to burn before the ports are opened
Nathan L was wondering if I was trolling or just being a smarty.I love this channel and the work that goes on. I have nothing but pure admiration for this man.
I follow Cleatus chanel on youtube, I might have missed something but when they run drag races on ethanol they don't have radiators at all because the fuel cools so much. Short races but then they also drive back to the pit. Even if it's short distances they should overheat on the short distances but they don't. Great videos!
Love the videos and the problem solving involved, I probably get far too caught up in trying to diagnose you’re issues but I love a challenge. Here’s what I’m thinking . . . The pipe stinger is probably too large to work over the entire rev range at low boost. If the stinger is too large, the exhaust won’t counter the boost pressure with the exhaust and transfer overlap (so you’ll never really get ‘on the pipe’). I reckon a variable diameter stinger controller by a servo could produce the pressure in the pipe needed to create the ‘stuffing’ action over the entire rev range. It could just be a tapered piece of solid round that pulls out of the stinger like a needle jet in a carb. Maybe set by rpm or boost pressure, also a cheap egt wouldn’t hurt for fine tuning the jetting.
How does the piston look? Have you had it apart since you started this? Seems crazy the abuse it has been through- maybe the rings are shot and cylinder pressure is low. It was way hard to turn it over in the past, seems to spin up really easy now.
It's always worth doing compression check. Now the exhaust port is fitted with a central bridge and a standard piston used I feel the innards should be OK with all that fuel sloshing about inside It may just be getting run in? Test runs have being very short and on the rich side of safe. Alex never used to run any engine parts in or warm up the engine prior to testing.
AA/FD setup in 1990's. Undersized roots blower running at excessive rpm resulting in high intake temps. Phrase is "beating up" the air/nitro mix to put some energy into it. Engine is fueled to near hydraulic lock. Injectors are above blower. Churning of rotors whips the fuel/air mix into hot foam. Engine does not breath cool air. Fuel is vaporizing because it is already hot in the intake port and open cylinder.
@@rubikmonat6589 If it's anything like a turbo, it's far from clean. I wouldn't trust that it is personally. A mechanical gauge without a snubber valve would tell the story.
Try the pipe with no expansion chamber. Seems like the pressure is too high from mixture igniting in the pipe and overcoming the fresh air/fuel charge pressure
Have you thought about a car engine heater/coolant heater? There is kinda universal inline heaters also. I'm sure you have those in Norway too. Would be quick and easy to heat the coolant. Defa is the most popular brand here in Finland.
@@2STROKESTUFFINGAlex, Having just rewatched some " Brute force " video's again it was much happier around 14k. PiP with the Roots blower and speedway carb achieved 18k plus pulling the rearder and climbing, this should prove the fuel burning rate is fast enough when fully atomised in such a short stroke engine. I also feel adding a accelerant to the fuel will make matters better. Are you feeling the beneficial effects of the vitamin D yet.
As for established titles.....were we expecting servants and fanfare. No. It's just for fun and we knew it. You can't protect us from ourselves. Also love the content
Loving it all, thinking that adding more heat is good but could you try experimenting with stinger again. Reducing size to give a little more pressure to combat the blow off effect. Also more volume in the exhaust expansion chamber and length. That pipe would work well on my 2 stroke engines but your engine is doing allot more work . I think it needs making bigger/ massive in fact. So look forward to ...see you next time. .. vespa Rob.
Scottish law prevents small plots of land being sold for this very purpose. To prevent scams. Also owning land in Scotland does not make you a Lord or Lady. Half of Scotlands population would have titles then. You're paying for a piece of paper you could print out at home. Both have the same value. You didn't know and I love your channel regardless.
if u ever want a hand with any software stuff let me know im a young 2 stroke guy that grew up calculating pipes by hand no calculator i have moved onto tuning peoples turbo efi cars so i can help give u better sensor data to allow better reading also do cnc and cad work so can assist with manufacturing knowledge aswell as always your awesome and i cant wait to see this project you have single handedly made me get back into the 2 stroke world this is gonna be on insane machine when done
Eventually he will have an entire garage full of supporting equipment for an engine that is essentially a large sip out of a soda hahaha. Love the videos man! Chill music, Problem solving, innovation... keep up the good work!
first off - your doing amazing I remember when each week you destroyed a component! second holy mother of god was that the fuel dumping out the exhaust? at 13k+? no wonder you cant get enough heat question if the fuel is stealing all the engine heat could you pre heat the fuel?????? so it can't steal as much heat?
NOT ENOUGH EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE!!!! Expansion Chamber calculations are based on NA not boosted, this means to bring the expansion chamber return pulse waves back into time you need to adjust the exhaust back pressure to cancel out the boost pressure. (or redesign a new expansion chamber ) If not then you blow the cylinder charge out the exhaust making a flame thrower in the process not making power. Easy test, weld a washer on the end of the exhaust reducing the exit diameter. Three main reasons you make a flame thrower, ignition timing, return pulse timing and port timing. You have proved the timing, I work on the basis that your port timing is correct, that leaves your expansion chamber return pressure wave timing. With the increase of boost, you have increased the velocity of the intake charge, but your expansion chamber is not timed corectly to account for a 50% increase in volume and speed of the charge, this would mean air fuel going out the exhaust. If the exhaust back pressure is increased it will bring the pipe and port calculations back into spec. 5 minute test, weld that washer on the end of the pipe, you tried making the stinger larger and it got worse, follow the data and make it smaller and see what happens. Bet you it will rev a load better and you will find that lost power that.
From what I have seen about Established titles is that they show you a plot off the side of a dirt road in a 2000 square foot patch of woods. Also that you aren’t actually becoming a lord legally. How many other people get the same pin when they purchase? I could sell paper in a frame saying you are a lord for a lot cheaper if you want.
I think it would be a good idea to go back to the idea with rotary valves. To me it looks like most of the fuel and pressure just blows through on high rpms, like the pulses from the exhaust doesn't so anything. That's at least consistent with the fact that it got worse with more boost. Mind I don't know anything 😆
😁I have a secret plan that involves a rotary exhaust valve, transfer reeds, and the pipe. Just want to see how well it can do without all that first.(not very well atm...)
Thanks for all the great work so far , love watching every episode. Now for temperature, the blower will be increasing that air temp and would be interesting to know how much, maybe touch the air inlet or place a sensor just before carb, all EFI set ups monitor temperature and some do air pressure as well. Which might become a issue with the thin air at Bonneville be at seven thousand feet above the sea.
As an engineer, I would put the carburetor ahead of the supercharger, because through the supercharger the fuel can mix much better with the air, and you can get much cleaner combustion. Currently, I am working on a similar supercharged 2-stroke that has this order, and with this 1-liter engine we were able to produce 115 hp with 90 octane petrol, and 2.4 bar pressure. Don't get me wrong, your engine is absolutely fantastic, but I have a strong feeling that this can be a solution: carburetor-> supercharger-> engine. Keep up the great work!
I honestly wondered if you were getting post ignition (pulse jet effect) while watching you last video. This is a fascinating experiment to watch. A must for those that really want to understand how the combustion system works. Always looking forward to you next videos each week. Sorry you got caught up in all the scam talk nonsense.
I like your videos very much, i think that the blower makes to much pressure and is just pushing a part of the gas through the burning chamber when the exhaust aud intake ports are both oben, then ignite from the hot air in the pipe. Thats why it makes a pulsejet. Good luck
Your videos are fascinating to watch for engine design, i feel your pain to achieving your goal. As a fellow engineer it's great to see the process of your thoughts, inspiring even. I have had this idea a for 2 stroke petrol with oil sump and oil control ring, that closely relates that of Detroit Diesel. To start engine it would need electric turbo, then a switch to standard one once running (with air and exhaust storage either side to 'soften' pulses). Mass airflow meter, map sensor, ecu with possible map switching and pressurised destratified direct injection to eliminate fuel waste and misfire. I feel full computer control could be solution for more efficient engine vs a 4 stroke even. The rotary exhaust timing control being the best idea yet of yours. Could this work?
Not without a blower unfortunately, even the turbo Detroits are twin charged rather than straight turbo. You could certainly have a clutched pulley to relieve the engine of blower drag once you're in an adequate boost condition though. If that was the only thing stopping you, start drawing it up! We need more mad scientist engineering on YT!
@@simonhare7369 How are you going to push air into the cylinder at idle? or Under any condition except high boost? Especially with an exhaust storage chamber as you call it, you're losing all of the effective power to drive a turbo, much less drive one at idle. You will require a positive displacement pump, not a centrifugal one like a turbo. You must force air into the cylinder under all conditions.
There is the hope that once started via the electric turbo, then switched over to the exhaust driven turbo (both functions could be combined into one special design) there will be enough expansion of exhaust gases to sufficiently rotate/boost the intake side of the turbo without a displacement pump, i.e. use of the crankcase.
@@simonhare7369 Unfortunately my friend, the hope is misguided. You don't need to use the crankcase, but you will need a blower. Otherwise there's nothing moving air. Since engines are primarily air pumps, you simply won't achieve a very useful engine if it runs at all. There's no load applied to produce the pressure wave you need to drive the turbo, and you're talking about further reducing that capacity with a high volume exhaust jacket. Since a turbo is a centrifugal pump in principal, it's simply incorrect to assume it can handle engine airflow requirements until it is flowing in a useful region of its compressor map. Keep researching! You can do this, don't skip the details
I just had a thought about when your engine goes into "Pulse Jet Mode". Would increasing the length of the Exhaust Stinger help generate more heat inside the Expansion Chamber, and prevent efficiency loss due to the cooling effect? Since then the Exhaust would then be generating it's own heat source from burning unburnt fuel and not taking heat from the engine. With the volume of mixture and air though the engine. I would be expecting to start seeing the exhaust glowing hot.
I remember a story Don Garlits (Top Fuel pioneer) once told in a video: He was running the 392ci Hemi engine by Dodge and doing well, then Dodge came out with the new 426ci Hemi. He tried it but consistently ran slower than with his 392, so he went back to his 392. He was sponsored by Dodge and the boss called him and said: You must run the 426 hemi. After endless trying he could not run quicker that the 392 and he was so sick of it he just turned the distributor to max timing, if it blows it blows. He ran the fastest time he even ran. Engine was happy, no broken parts. Turned out the larger combustion chamber of the 426 needed WAY more timing advance than he thought was safe, because nitro burns slowly. Moral of the story, don't be afraid of timing advance with nitro, especially later when you go for higher nitro mixtures. I have no experience with nitro myself, but I'm fascinated with it and thought I would share the story :) Love this channel!
Exclusively Nordic engine problems: not running hot enough. I thought my motorcycle temperature gauge was broken until one really hot summer day riding stop and go traffic in a city I saw the needle move a bit. Oh, and love the radiator support chair.
I think an engine with less radical port timing but still having high flow (challenging I know) would benefit more from the blower than port timing designed for using exhaust pressure/pulses. Higher boost pressures (on this engine) may just flood the exhaust with unburned fuel. P.S. You handled the Lord/Lady thing better than any of the other channels I have seen. Time will tell the truth.
Alex did handle the Lord/Lady thing really well didn't he! Just as a bit of info, this engine has achieved 18300 RPM using the Roots blower and speedway carb with 15deg of timing.
I know guys who have run methanol in their derby cars without a radiator. Just looped the hoses from the output of the engine to the input of the water pump. Never overheats. Sometimes have frost on the intake manifold after the derby. Most Monster trucks do not run cooling systems. They just add more methanol to cool the engine down.
I think you did a great job explaining the Established Titles situation and how it affects you. You didn't throw them under the bus, but you showed your willingness to support or not support them based on future evidence. You are right in saying that it is not your job to defend the company. I think everything you said was reasonable. If I were Established Titles I would be worried and I would make an attempt to prove the legitimacy of my claims.
I wondered when you'd acknowledge the sponsor issue. I've heard you can't legally visit the plot you supposedly own. I would hope they are actually donating some of the money. If not I believe it is a scam and should be listed as a novelty gift only. I could respect that.
try running a 5k or 10k resistor inline with your ignition input from the engine to ignition control box, there are quite a few people with motorcycles and aftermarket ECU that have this issue of hitting a fake hard rev limit.
or try soldering a 5k resistor from the signal to return ( if a reluctor pickup ) or a 1k resistor from 5V to Signal ( if a hall effects sensor) and see if that gives nay improvement.
I think it's a scam because the marketing material they gave you and other creators is dishonest. "You can legally become a lord or lady." Which is absolutely a lie. Hence, dishonest and therefore a scam.
I just don't understand how established titles, or any of its advertisers can act like it's not a lie or false advertising. all the advertisers are pretending like it's not a problem. They knew it was lie but yet they keep perpetuating the lie and then wonder why people are mad. The lack of credibility is amazing through the whole scam. The fact of becoming of a lord is the entire motive to get people to pay for trees being planted, except you can't, even tho they are telling you that you can. Pretending everyone knew it wasn't possible to become a lord it's a true lack of responsibility. Why would anyone think that when their being told it is possible?? Like being told you won the lottery but you can't have the money..
Also, you don't legally own any land, or even have part ownership in any land, and there's no proof any money at all is going towards the promised trees being planted. What is known is that Established Titles are profitable, and (at least until a couple of weeks back) giving out a lot of money in social media sponsorship deals. Any percentage being given to plant trees is going to be minimal. I would't be surprised, now that the scam has been exposed, for them to simply fold up their tent and move on to selling another imaginary bridge.
I think the overlap is causing the pulsejet effect, by blowing some mixture straight through the engine without having a chance to combust where it's supposed to, the combustion chamber.
As you say the fuel MUST be fully combusted prior to the exhaust port opening otherwise the fresh mixture will ignite in the expansion chamber giving the pulse jet effect which people seem to like. This ruins resonance in the pipe turning it into a flame thrower nothing else.
First I was wondering how much power can a 50cc give, but now I am just curious how much patience can a man have? Battle of the machine versus human. Good luck human!
Lmao well I'm not Alex but iv been on my compound turbo 155cc for 12+yrs doing the same type of thing over and over again. I'd say the first 4 single turbo setups got scrapped Early on and I probably went back and forth between Fi and blow through carb for 6yrs. By year 6 the bike made 78whp... 6yrs and an extra turbo later were around my 100whp goal.. this last year has been making a bike that works with the powerplant to actually get the bike out of the hole lol no mentions small engines with lots of boost don't make hardly any power once they fall out of boost lol. Alex is a wiser smarter and better tooled than me so I'd say he has more patients too but I understand his pain. I love that he shows this r&d work no one does and I suck at filming lol.
The patience as a saint!
My "patience testing machine" is my 1965 Fiat.. Every time I repair something next problem is around the corner hahah I love that car
Three theories in one video!
@@mrsnezbit2219 sound about right but mine is my car. 1994 w202 220c manual i adopted after it had sat on friends yard for 5years without use. He was selling that house so i gave him 300€ for it. Engine runs insanly good for 350tkm and doesnt eat any oil. I mean it doesnt drop in a year at all. If it does there is a leak lol. (One it had was crank rear seal. I got to change gear box front seal too) now its only paint and new as they come. Everthing has been done. Breaks,springs,dampers,bottom rusts,intake seals,engine wirings, clutch stuff from breakfluid tank to gearbox, fuel lines. Its a great car and i have spent around 600-700€ Max for everthing including rent for warm garage with lifts.
I enjoy doing stuff for this one.
This is quickly becoming my favorite channel ever, it's insane.
This is pure porn just sad that they are only one Friday every week ! ...
Agreed 👍 look forward to it every week! 😀
Thanks man!
facts
I can relate to this hahaha
Even though there is lots of trouble shooting, I must say the engine itself really are holding up well now.
I would recommend mounting temp sensors in the exhaust and inside the crankcase, maybe it could help monitor unburnt fuel.
As well as monitor temp of intake, 1 bar of pressure also is starting to add temp on the intake side.
Literally just thought the same thing and came here to say it. The amount of s*** tunes, poor operating temps and whatever else our boy throws at it and she just keeps on ticking.
Anybody know what rod, piston and crank he's using in this setup? It's crazy to think how much horsepower they were getting out of 50cc two strokes back in the 60s and 70s. I heard stories of Honda getting insane numbers double what our buddy here has put out so far. This is still quite an impressive setup for a garage LOL. We need to start a GoFundMe to get this dude some safety glass
he has a allergy to sensors and efi and prefers to blindly guess at the problem I think, entertaining but not conducive to making power consistently
Give it to a 16 year old in a moped & see how long it lasts....it's really only been tickled on the dyno & not properly loaded...compared with previous attempts it's more robust though..but all relative.
@@SB-vb8ch 100% my am6 with no flywheel will rev past 16k, is it producing power? No
Dude you've got a 2stroke ,all your port are open a the same time so the mixture is going in you exhauste, logic, you need to get exhauste valve or a pipe with big big big effect to counter the pressure
You're pipe is disigned to work at atmospheric pressure in the pipe and out.
You need to designe a pipe for your case
With bigger boost you got even mor mixture in your pipe and not in your engine
So bigger flamethrower and less pipe effect , you forgot the essential of a 2stroke!!!!
Friday was before I fell in love with this channel. It's Stuffingday now. The videography, music choice and ambience are just second to you, your projects and the flair the entire thing has overall.
Love your work and thank you so much for bringing it to us for free
I really appreciate your direct handling of Established Titles. Your assessment is right on with what I read on their site. The problem is that the approved language from Established Titles didn't specifically call out "this is a souvenir, it does not confer any legal land ownership".
Nor they provided proof that they donated money for reforestation
Add to that that the old custom is referring to land owners as a laird/lord/lady. As established, you don't actually own the land in any legal sense so their language doesn't make sense
its incredibly obvious you dont own land if you dont receive a deed....
I also liked his take.. I mean when it came out as a "scam".. I was thinking.. Obviously you aren't actually getting any land and it's just a fun gag. But I guess a lot of people really thought they could send some random company 50$(which realistically buys a wheel barrel of potting soil anywhere else) and get a piece of land in scotland..
@@vincentguttmann2231 Even if you did own a small part of land, it only relates to an entire registered estate and the single title associated with that estate, not small chunks of the same estate. This scam has been running for decades, previously as the "Laird of Camster". Lord Lyon Court - the legal authority on titles in Scotland - has repeatedly warned people not to get drawn into these scams, there is no lawful title.
I think after a certain rpm the 'seal' from the back pulse from the exhaust is overwhelmed by the blower and now the combustable mixture is passing strait through the combustion chamber which is ignited in the pipe causing the flame thrower so the trick is to balance the back pressure pulse from the exhaust and blower. The pain and hard work will be worth it! Great video again!
Maybe calm down the port timing a bit. What do you think?
That's a good suggestion, I wonder if redesigning the resonation frequency in the exhaust pipe (give a steeper angle on the reflector of the pipe) and maybe a smaller tip could help increase the back pressure.
@@mact.26 you may be onto something there. In a previous episode he enlarged the stinger size and it made worse.
exactly..... I just don't know how you can balance the back pressure of unburnt fuel. I think the easiest answer is fuel injection, more particularly direct injection.
@@chadcoady9025 direct injection would be pretty game changing but right now doesnt his setup still use the fuel to oil the rotating assembly? If he tried to use direct injection he would lose all the lubrication
I purchased a plot using your code for my wife and got exactly what I paid for, a gift nothing more. Thank you.
Right, how many people buy a gift for someone that gets tossed in the bin 6 months later. Fun gift nothing more.
I find it weird how people are mad about this, no matter if they got a plot or not. What were they going to do, build a house there?
@@alebone_ a doll house maybe
Just a thought have you got a pyrometer that you can put just out of the exhaust port and a port for crankcase pressure ? Exhaust temperature tells a big story. I don’t know how much your fuel cools things but if you have the engine at evaporation point or above that should help with atomism. What is the design temperature for your motor if it does not have enough heat the clearance will be all over the place . Just the musings of a retired mechanic, love what you are doing keep it up you will eventually get there . Cheers from Australia
I know it sounds like the opposite of what most people do with their (already developed) engines, but could you pre heat the incoming fuel and/ or air to help it vaporize and increase volatility. When you spill glow fuel on your hand, it's amazing how cold it becomes as it evaporates. It's almost painful when it's cold out 😅.
The acetone could help in this regard. It's a common trick to add acetone to glow fuel in cold climates to help for starting, although it's not something I've ever done.
Also, the amount of oil in that fuel is probably about 18-20% by volume (not sure about your specific fuel). That's about 5:1. I know it's safe, but it's probably quite excessive. Ignition and vaporisation might improve with reduced oil quantity.
I don't know if you'll read this, but your doing an awesome job with this engine. With perseverance like this, I'm sure you'll set your record👍.
Usually you want to cool the air so more of it goes in. Intercooler thats called.
@@theCombinator
That's what I mean by doing the opposite of what most people do. In this case, heating it may be the way to fully ignite the fuel.
Double spark it?
Honestly the anticipation and excitement when I see a see u post a new video is like no other.
Before the carb you've got an 90 degree, which at low RPM (low airflow, low airspeed) gives you a uniform flow. At high RPM (high airflow, high air speed), most of the airflow will be concentrated outside the bend. You might have a simple mechanical fluid problem on top of any other problem. (In ventilation system, we recommend at least 2.5 x (the duct size) of straight pipe before a fan so that we don't starve it. Try the same for your carb. Give it a uniform flow accross the RPM range by puting a straight section of pipe in front of the carb.
I love watching you slowly chip away at getting this engine to where u want it. The iterative process your going thru on this channel is real engineering at its finest. Your content is gold Alex!!! I'll be right here, waiting for your next video to drop.
Our boy literally just got on a plane to go by pulleys. Haha love it. That's the best part about this channel. S*** that would take other people weeks and they would make multiple videos about this guy gets done in one week. It's awesome when you're halfway through and he's throwing out troubleshooting ideas and you know he's going to get to him before the end of the vid
It is normally 1 or 2 days for packages to come from Iceland to Norway then 3weeks for the packages to arrive to my house the post service in Norway is a joke.
this might be the only channel on youtube that doesnt get any hate in the comments, and theres a good reason for it, theres nothing to hate on, this is amazing! keep it up man, youll get it!!
I have to say out of all Channels I subscribe to I look forward to your video uploads the most and am completely blown away by how much abuse that little engine can take! Keep pushing forward you’re going to get this thing dialed in I am very confident of that.
to me the lord title was like buying a star, nothing but a novelty so i agree with you
and yes visiting the plot would be kinda cool
We love to see your progress. Love the process too.
A couple of years ago i did a lot of reading about turbocharging snowmobiles, the best explanation i found by some who have had success was to fool the engine that it was not!!
Normal pressure in pipe as NA 0,3-0,4 give or take.
Supercharged pipe pressure= boost+normal pipe pressure.
I hope that makes sense...
Kämpa på från Sverige!!!!!!
Now that you are super-charged, and have good fuel flow and ignition... you should make a telescopic section of the exhaust pipe between the flange and the start of the expansion chamber. Adding or removing length between the head and the chamber will drastically change the fluid dynamics of the charged air pulse as well as the exhaust scavenging effects. I would guess (judging by the fireballs) that you would want to start your expansion chamber closer to the head, and perhaps (due to volumetric efficiencies) increase it's size to that of an 80-100cc (maybe 150cc) engine's tuning requirements.
I agree, when this pipe was run on this engine it achieved 18,300 rpm pulling the retarder using the roots blower and speedway carb. I feel the problems experienced are down to lack of correct fuel atomisation, the finer the droplets quicker the burn.
Alex has a collection of expansion chambers, it just takes time to do it,
As Alex has stated he'll do it his way as he likes sorting problems.
The question is, why does the Roots/speedway carb work and not the Rotrex/Lectron.
The pipe should be longer at lower rpm, and shorter at higher rpm. This is because the time between events is shorter or high rpm, so the distance the wave travels should be shorter.
Agree. And it needs a actuator moving it at different rpm. Coool:)
Mounting the carb on suction side of turbo would help vaporizing fuel and lot less complexity, also it will work as intended? Fuel will also act like intercooler.
I love cars, I love motorcycles, I love computers and tech even more...but this channel completely changed my mind in my view of everything. In hardest of times, I grab a meal and a drink, I sit and watch a two stroke scream for mercy. This is way better then any mental help you can get! Cheers mate!
Love watching your videos and its great to see a man be so honest about his advertising. Great job ! God bless 🙏
I'm so happy to hear your take on the Established Title drama. I thought the exact same thing as you. Frankly, I wouldn't think twice about running more ads with a nudge and a wink and the word novelty inserted. Might as well take their money, I say!
Maybe try other pipes and see if the rpm at which it goes haywire changes in order to rule out pipe tuning. Also, I agree with several others here that you should add a resistor for ignition pickup. Super stoked about the build, keep it up! Cheers from Sweden
You can get a thermocouple that goes under the spark plug like an o ring to get a better idea of cylinder/head temp. Search for “spark plug thermocouple”. Good luck tuning!
That's what I'm running👍
As someone here in Scotland, I think if you want to help reforest our country there are plenty of charities dedicated to this that are not based on the other side of the globe and put a lot more of the donated cash into the reforestation 'cause'. As for wanting to be "The Laird" - I guess it takes all sorts to make a World!
Good on ya for acknowledging the issues surrounding Established Titles 👍🏼
Thanks for all the hard work and effort you've put in!
When running the Roots blower you found the best pressure to be 1.1 bars with the stinger attached.
Gotta take that boost out of the crankcase
@@reiddoig5158 My apologies, I don't understand your comment.
@@malcrandall1309 Piston is fighting boost pressure on the downwood stroke Direct the boost straight into the transfer ports and have a vaccume in the crankcase Free horsepower
@@reiddoig5158 Thanks very much for your clarification.
@@malcrandall1309 What are your thoughts on this I saw some drawings from 2stroke stuffing for this ideah but he never went on with it
Do a cvt pulley system on the supercharger to make variable pressure through the rpm range. I don't know if this solves anything but it sounds fun 🤣
I'm not sure overnighting the boost from the supercharger to the engine is conductive to achieving his goal, but the thought tickled my brain slightly
The problem is that you'd want it in reverse compared to a normal cvt
You want a taller gear at low rpm and a shorter one at the redline to even the boost curve
What can and cannot be overnighted is still a fairly under-explored area.
@@riccardo1796 I guess you probably could use a normal variator, but just have it on the driven side instead.
@@riccardo1796 So, drive it from the other side. I can't really think of a reason why that wouldn't work.
I think we need a restriction at the exhaust port, for three reasons:
1-To assist the pressure wave coming back up the pipe in sealing the chamber. The only answer to stopping the pulsejet is to hold the fuel where you want it burning. We're running the PIP cylinder at the moment, right? So perhaps the closest we could get is choking the inlet to the pipe itself, creating a pressure differential to trap the mixture.
2-Increasing dynamic boost pressure heats the mixture more, as well as spending longer in the warm crankcase. The stinger/pipe being the system restriction concentrates the highest energy differential there, and ignition is coming from upstream. Moving that point upstream to the edge of the head may help decrease the volume that the supercharger "feels like" it is filling, lifting those boost numbers that have always been a little low.
3-It's really easy to test!
3 very good points IMO Dan! the 3rd one especiallyI Things simply can't be pipe dreams they have to be practical to allow installation and testing.
If I may first say this engine/expansion chamber with correct stinger fed by the Roots blower/ speedway carb achieved 18300 RPM with 15 degrees of timing pulling the retarder and climbing in rpm before backing the throttle off. I feel we need to remember this.
Whats changed? the S/C and carb that's all!
The roots blower ran pull through from the speedway carb which had lots of testing time under it's belt. It also ran the engine upto 1.1 bars of boost while the Rotrex/ Lectron runs blow through!
What's the difference? well there's no fuel/Air mixing from the supercharger for one. The Roots used to smash the fuel droplets to a fine mist. The finer the mist the quicker the burn.
Secondly. The Roots produced 1.1 bars of boost pressure, what does the Rotrex produce under load.
Thirdly, the lectron has a reducer in the back passage. I feel this is not helping fuel atomisation!
My conclusion as I have stated many times in these comments is this. The fuel droplets are simply to large to burn sufficiently in such a short time. The fuel/air mixture needs to be finer to burn quicker.
Finally the piston only travels approximately 1 inch down the bore under pressure before the exhaust port opens ending the power stroke. The fuel needs burning completely in this time.
At 19k, the resonant frequency of this pipe there are 316 power strokes per second, thats a lot!
That's it from me Dan my finger hurt's.
I'll say it again, you made good points.
@@malcrandall1309 I'm all the way there with you regarding a previous setup running to 18300, I think that was an electronically imposed limit as well. I have a feeling that was on gas, but I could be wrong. I'm also sure that the ignition system has changed dramatically, and that the drag from the supercharger isn't applied in the same manner as a roots blower would be. My understanding is that drag on a centrifugal supercharger is a function of oil viscosity, air density and then rolling resistance.
In fact I'm positive the roots setup was petrol, I remember Alex saying something about changing to blow through for the sake of running nitro safely. Leading to the next interesting point I found that ties in with yours, the flame front speed of nitro is about 0.5m/s. The piston travels 79cm in a second at 19k, and only "half" of that makes power. I'm not positive we're at the ignition limit of the fuel, but it is getting worrying if the nitro mix is high. I agree that atomization is important, but short of reducing crankcase volume or heating the charge air (neither of which are conducive to more power) I don't see another good option. I'm not convinced that the carb reducer is hurting, it should increase the flow through the venturi tube by increasing the speed of the air across the venturi. You may be right that this is the cause of improper atomisation though, I'm not really a carby guy.
@@maccadan90I have gone back and rewatched it twice and can see no evidence of the roots and speedway carb using petrol. I know the fuel system is flushed out with petrol at the end of the day but run on RC fuel! Petrol has being used while using the Rotrex on a couple of test runs with the Lectron.
As far as the ignition goes it was running the single channel system.
I have read in the comments that Alex is going to give Petrol a proper try this coming week but retain the Lectron.
The only reason the Roots blower was ditched was he'd lost confidece with it binding and the resonant pulses it produced
This Rotrex saps a lot of power fom such a tiny 50cc engine as we know.
Alex also mentioned in the comments he'd found the reason why the Rotrex was serging as it was and a bit miffed that he missed it.
@@malcrandall1309 It's true, I could be misremembering things re fuel used with the roots blower. Agreed that the final nail in its coffin was the binding though. Also agreed that a centrifugal supercharger cannot form those destructive interference pulses.
I agree that the Rotrex is draining power, but I'm positive that as long as boost is generated while torque is high enough to support it, there shouldn't be a problem. I'm going to have to dig out all the old mass air flow equations I've got buried on this PC and run Alex's bore dimensions through them, see what flow and target speed I arrive at. I'm almost positive there's a drive pulley solution to match the result.
Even with all this extra thought in the background, I'm still a strong advocate for choking the exhaust port at the side of the head. The old backpressure=power myth might finally prove true in this unique application.
@@maccadan90 What we must remember this engine has done 18k in a previous configuration, this cannot be overlooked!
This exhaust duct is a bit radical with it's shape. If the fuel/air was completely burnt by the time the exhaust port opens there would be no chance of internal burning in the expansion chamber.
There have being several of us who suggested going back to basics using N/A and petrol, this was forcably ruled out by Alex so appears he may have changed his mind!
There are still quite a few problems to resolve with the retarder/dyno equipement.
We musn't forget these crackcases have a massive volume of 390cc and made to run with a 90mm con rod which lowers the primary compression ratio. Back in the early 70's when I used to race 125 twin cylinder Yamaha's tuners of the time wasn't concerned with primary compression. This did not sit right with me especially when I was paying them to do a job!
I fully plugged the flywheels which was common practice and along with epoxy putty a noticable performance increased was gained. I feel the massive capacity of Alex's crankcases is detrimental to performance no matter what induction is used. When I suggested reducing the crankcase volume with epoxy putty Alex had a public go at me saying he will do what he chooses and who can fault him. Things have being smothed over thankfully, I have only wished good fortune on Alex.
Let's wait and see what tomorrow afternoon brings. I just hope he remembers to drill a couple of lubrication holes in the piston face over the exhaust bridge.
Good series buddy. The evolution is great to follow. I'm sure your persistence will be rewarded. Methodical and scientific wins the day!
You ask the right questions. Your comparison of 2 stroke port timing to 4 stroke overlap is spot on. You are going to have to change the exhaust port timing. There is the obvious way to do that, but there are probably ways that I have not considered. You cannot make cylinder pressure with that much overlap.
Damn, you are really quite a smart guy. I will be very interested to see your solutions. Peace and best wishes.
Add the thrust into the power calculations? I am mostly joking. Afterburner?
Now even my neighbors are getting mad!
ah, the beautiful simplicity of 2 strokes
Every fuel has a flame front speed. As you increase revs you need to increase the timing advancement to give the fuel more time to burn, In this video you proved the point when you set the advance timing back to 30 Degress at the higher revs
It's a bit different with 2 strokes because their scavenging efficiency changes so much with rpm. Often at low speeds the scavenging is poor and the charge heavily diluted with exhaust, this leads to slow combustion so they need more advanced timing at low to mid speeds. At full throttle and high speed scavenging is good and mixture turbulence is high, so they may need less advance than you expect. Also you can't advance too much or the spark will fire before the exhaust port closes.
Hi Alex, outstanding, looks like you got the carb pretty much under control, good job. Was just thinking about what was going on with the pipe spitting flames at various times. My personal opinion is that the pipe is coming on as the charge velocity comes up in the higher rpm range. Methanol has a long burn time as you know, and the time the engine has to compress and ignite and burn the mixture at high rpm has to be minute. The same thing would happen to us when we were racing 100cc two strokes, but it would burn the top edge of the piston and scorch the exhaust port. All we did if our timing was correct for what we wanted was, lengthen the distance between the piston and the first cone of the pipe, it changed the timing of the pipe/resonance of exhaust slug verses port timing. I’m sure you already know that. You are on the right track, with adding some acetone, ignites the charge faster. If it were me, lengthen the pipe, piston to first cone and begin adding small amount of acetone at a time. I still think there are gains to be made in the carb, my opinion, throttle response seems to be lacking, more of Venturi/ restriction for better pressure differential. Just wondering if your two stroke software will calculate the time available for the power cycle to take place? I’m really wondering how your engine would act on fast igniting gasoline with different carb, just a thought. Keep at it! Great job! Can’t wait for next week!
I still say you should baseline without the supercharger first, then once you're happy the way it runs and you know what power it makes add the rotrex and go from there. The other thing I'm thinking (and might have missed it in your series), maybe have a good known engine hooked up to the dyno and verify it is working properly.
Didn't he get a reliable ~20 horsepower with the PiP engine before he supercharged it? I want to remember it being that much but I could be wrong.
Without the supercharger you would have little to no scavenging and would have to redesign the entire engine. Like running a Detroit diesel without a blower
@@labrikorn_3299 Alex has a lot of idea's running round in his head. It's hard to accept logic some times.
@@mikehotchkiss8975 the engine he's currently running was na at first
@@mantvydas8810 This engine has a very large crank case volume, 390cc with very low primary puping efficiency. Only wish it was smaller!
I watched this video again and observed the following: 1) The maximum cylinder head temperature for all the runs was about 70 deg. C (some were much lower)-in my opinion this is much to cold for the nitrated fuel that you're using. 2) The maximum ignition advance for all of the runs was 30 degrees (some less)-not nearly enough advance for the nitrated fuel being used-less than most would use with a similar gasoline-fueled 2-stroke engine. 3) When the "pulse-jet" action began from the tuned pipe, the instrument measuring BARs began an irregular fluctuation between about 0.8 and 1.4. In my opinion, this probably indicated that the air-fuel charge from the crankcase was short-circuiting wildly from the cylinder's transfer ports... and out through the exhaust port (again, in my opinion, this is due to poorly atomized, non-vaporized, slow burning fuel, which has way too much lubrication percentage that is not contributing to the burning process). 4) Your stated intent to use an accelerant with this nitrated fuel should be performed with extreme caution. As with propylene oxide and hydrazine (unobtainium) before it, acetone can and will produce melted pistons, plugs, etc. (even if the A/F approaches the stoichiometric-chemically correct). Suggestion: As mentioned a few days ago, the best way that I know to heat the boosted (blow-through) air and fuel mixture in the crankcase and turn it into a vapor is to use one or two 12 volt electric surface heaters (1/2 inch diameter, or less) and pre-heat the case to about 100 deg. C. After start-up, when the engine's head temperature stabilizes at roughly 130 deg. C, turn off the crankcase heat; It won't be needed because the combusting nitrated fuel will maintain the head temp... providing the engine's compression ratio is close to being correct-an easy fix nonetheless 5) Remove the tuned pipe; it's doing nothing but confusing the real issues of this engine. Last but not least: you NEED to install A/F instrumentation. All of the needless guesswork is prolonging what should be a straight-forward determination of... is the fuel mixture too rich or too lean? If you provide the glow fuel's ingredients, I'm certain there are followers of this Channel who can do the relatively simple calculations for both the stoichiometric and peak-power A/F. Actually, it doesn't matter if you use any of the suggestions from me or those from others ... it's still fun to watch your trials and tribulations. Best of luck!
Thanks for the input! No time to form a proper reply atm, sorry. I'm going back to basics in the upcoming vid, tackle any "conventional" issues, then add in the unknowns one by one. Also, while digitizing the compressor map for simulations I realized the compressor has probably been surging pretty much the whole time, changing drive ratio did not help... Never paid much attention to the surge line, stupid.
@@2STROKESTUFFING Looking forward to your Thursday/ Friday video coming out.
Make use of your pluse jet, put a spark plug in your expansion chamber and a turbo on ya bee stinger , exstract more energy from your unburnt fuel
Can I make a suggestion. Test to failure. Pistons are cheap. Advance the ignition timing to 40 degrees and do one run before extreme heat does damage.
It will be easier for combustion to start as the cylinder pressure will be lower and spark plug performance less likely to be variable. Also do not persevere with a well used plug. Use new plugs say every 5 runs or similar.
I ran a 250cc 2 stroke micro sprint on 100% alchohol with a smaller radiator than your using on a 50cc. My engine didnt make any power untill it got near 200 degrees (f)
Without an exhaust valve or exhaust restriction your boost goes out the exhaust pipe(flames}. The engine will act rich but actually be lean {poor BSFC} and boost pressure will be lower. Power will be not much better than NA without it. The exhaust port is still open when the transfers close so boost bleeds out the exhaust. love the channel and your ideas!
You are noob
@@g.g4816 Really? I mention this to him because I did this experiment 30 years ago. You can not increase cylinder filling from boost pressure if the exhaust port is still open after the transfers close with out a mechanical or pressure device to hold the charge in. Pipe dynamics will get you 3-4 psi is all.
@@allblowdup hahahahahahaha yust stop noo
much respect for addressing the established title ordeal. Gimme the gps location/address of the land if you can and ill go visit it and take photos for you if it does exists, im always traveling round Scotland delivering motorbikes and i would personally like to see it for myself as well in case i am wrong.
Loving your build!
Have you thought about playing around with an exhaust power valve system instead of an intake valve like the rotax 122/123 engines have?
Your system reminds me of aprilias Rave 2 power valve system. (the solenoid version)
I cant help but think if an intake based valve was better all the manufacturers would of gone that route.
Surly you want to control the flow out of the engine instead of into the engine? the carburetor already moderates the intake so your intake valve seems a little counter intuitive.
Its like putting a carburetor in front of a carburetor that isnt adding fuel.
On that note, i wonder how 2x stacked blow though carburetors would behave :P
Once you get it dialed I'd love to run that in my YSR50! Love your channel, as a gearhead myself its awesome to see the entire process you are going through!
Normal/optimal coolant temperatures for internal combustion engines is between 75 - 105 celsius, so it seems that you are still very low.... also does the inverted cylinder design not promote hotter crankcase temperatures...?
A highly tuned 2t on gas likes as cool as possible, not applicable in this situation obviously...
I think Nitro RC car engines like about 100 Celsius. This is mabe more like an rc nitro engine than a gas 2-stroke that way? Tho it has piston rings, so mabe not. Don’t know. Would try even more heat in the cooling system. To about 90c and just see what happens. Might just have to be sure the ring gaps can handle the heat expansion. I don’t know. Love this channel!! My favorite in fact! Looking forward to The next vid!! 😁🏁🤟🏼
on older two stroke (diesel) compressor engines they have a spoiler on top of the piston to redirect the flow from the intake ports up toward the roof of the cilinder instead of straight across the piston and out the exhaust , i suspect this is happening at higher tpms , either that of the exhaust pipe is collecting excess fuel and at a certan rpm the gasses that arent burned fully yet shoot out the exhaust igniting the gasses in the pipe
think the best thing to do is to introduce the fuel directly intoo the chamber after the ports are closed same as with a diesel but with a spark ignition (has been done with modern cars , its called direct injection and uses pretty high pressures) , might stilll allow the engine to rev faster than the flamefront is able to move but at least there whont be unburned gas collected in the pipe
might need to get a bigger stroke smaller bore engine to allow the gasses more time to burn before the ports are opened
I’m a Scottish Lord and I’m here to see the tapestries.
after so many years ..i still watching your incredible experiences! Congrats!
Just can't stop watching your show my man! Great stuff. Learning a lot about them 2 strokes. Thanks for taking the time to make the video!
Nathan L was wondering if I was trolling or just being a smarty.I love this channel and the work that goes on. I have nothing but pure admiration for this man.
The famous chair cooled engine.
🤣😂🤣👍✌️🇬🇧
I follow Cleatus chanel on youtube, I might have missed something but when they run drag races on ethanol they don't have radiators at all because the fuel cools so much. Short races but then they also drive back to the pit. Even if it's short distances they should overheat on the short distances but they don't. Great videos!
Am going to miss the "am a lord and everything is beneath me now" :v
Love the videos and the problem solving involved, I probably get far too caught up in trying to diagnose you’re issues but I love a challenge. Here’s what I’m thinking . . . The pipe stinger is probably too large to work over the entire rev range at low boost. If the stinger is too large, the exhaust won’t counter the boost pressure with the exhaust and transfer overlap (so you’ll never really get ‘on the pipe’).
I reckon a variable diameter stinger controller by a servo could produce the pressure in the pipe needed to create the ‘stuffing’ action over the entire rev range.
It could just be a tapered piece of solid round that pulls out of the stinger like a needle jet in a carb.
Maybe set by rpm or boost pressure, also a cheap egt wouldn’t hurt for fine tuning the jetting.
How does the piston look? Have you had it apart since you started this? Seems crazy the abuse it has been through- maybe the rings are shot and cylinder pressure is low. It was way hard to turn it over in the past, seems to spin up really easy now.
This. Along with adding an EGT to see what's happening there
It's always worth doing compression check.
Now the exhaust port is fitted with a central bridge and a standard piston used I feel the innards should be OK with all that fuel sloshing about inside
It may just be getting run in? Test runs have being very short and on the rich side of safe.
Alex never used to run any engine parts in or warm up the engine prior to testing.
AA/FD setup in 1990's.
Undersized roots blower running at excessive rpm resulting in high intake temps.
Phrase is "beating up" the air/nitro mix to put some energy into it.
Engine is fueled to near hydraulic lock. Injectors are above blower. Churning of rotors whips the fuel/air mix into hot foam.
Engine does not breath cool air. Fuel is vaporizing because it is already hot in the intake port and open cylinder.
Do you not want a plenum of a specific size pre carb? It's my understanding compressor flow is messy without some kind of buffer.
centrifugal is much smoother than a roots. doesn't really pulsate at all.
@@rubikmonat6589 If it's anything like a turbo, it's far from clean. I wouldn't trust that it is personally. A mechanical gauge without a snubber valve would tell the story.
Try the pipe with no expansion chamber. Seems like the pressure is too high from mixture igniting in the pipe and overcoming the fresh air/fuel charge pressure
Have you thought about a car engine heater/coolant heater? There is kinda universal inline heaters also. I'm sure you have those in Norway too.
Would be quick and easy to heat the coolant.
Defa is the most popular brand here in Finland.
We have those.
👍
@@2STROKESTUFFING I would be surpriced if they dont have them at biltema.
The pulse jet effect blew my mind. Amazing stuff!! Love these vids very much, thank you!
Would be fun to try this setup on the brute force engine, to see what happens.
you mean "to see how it behaves"
@@axllii - Potato Potahto
Plan is to pull more "brute force" into this engine, just want it to work like it is first.
@@2STROKESTUFFINGAlex, Having just rewatched some " Brute force " video's again it was much happier around 14k. PiP with the Roots blower and speedway carb achieved 18k plus pulling the rearder and climbing, this should prove the fuel burning rate is fast enough when fully atomised in such a short stroke engine.
I also feel adding a accelerant to the fuel will make matters better.
Are you feeling the beneficial effects of the vitamin D yet.
@@2STROKESTUFFING - Oppfattet ;-)
regardless how good it's runng it's running and it has to be one one of the meanest sounding 50cc 2 strokes i have ever heard
And the white flames are nice
As for established titles.....were we expecting servants and fanfare. No. It's just for fun and we knew it. You can't protect us from ourselves. Also love the content
I am sooooo looking forward to the episode where that dining chair gets fitted to the land speed record bike :D
that chair bracket and cardboard box ducking was brilliant. the state i live in calls that Hillbilly know how. lol
Loving it all, thinking that adding more heat is good but could you try experimenting with stinger again. Reducing size to give a little more pressure to combat the blow off effect. Also more volume in the exhaust expansion chamber and length. That pipe would work well on my 2 stroke engines but your engine is doing allot more work . I think it needs making bigger/ massive in fact. So look forward to ...see you next time. .. vespa Rob.
Scottish law prevents small plots of land being sold for this very purpose. To prevent scams. Also owning land in Scotland does not make you a Lord or Lady. Half of Scotlands population would have titles then. You're paying for a piece of paper you could print out at home. Both have the same value. You didn't know and I love your channel regardless.
if u ever want a hand with any software stuff let me know im a young 2 stroke guy that grew up calculating pipes by hand no calculator i have moved onto tuning peoples turbo efi cars so i can help give u better sensor data to allow better reading
also do cnc and cad work so can assist with manufacturing knowledge aswell
as always your awesome and i cant wait to see this project you have single handedly made me get back into the 2 stroke world
this is gonna be on insane machine when done
I didnt nick name him 2StrokeSuffering for no reason haha. Love the guy. Love his dedication. Im here all the way.
Your comment should have got more than 3 likes.
@@malcrandall1309 I agree haha
I'll admit, I was confused when I found your channel, and I'm completely lost now. Keep it coming, I can't wait for the next iteration of madness.
Eventually he will have an entire garage full of supporting equipment for an engine that is essentially a large sip out of a soda hahaha.
Love the videos man! Chill music, Problem solving, innovation... keep up the good work!
Seriously, this is my favorite channel now. I love what you do!
first off - your doing amazing I remember when each week you destroyed a component!
second holy mother of god was that the fuel dumping out the exhaust? at 13k+?
no wonder you cant get enough heat
question if the fuel is stealing all the engine heat
could you pre heat the fuel?????? so it can't steal as much heat?
Did you ever consider a power valve system to lower the exhaust port timing to create more cilinder pressure at lower rpm's?
NOT ENOUGH EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE!!!!
Expansion Chamber calculations are based on NA not boosted, this means to bring the expansion chamber return pulse waves back into time you need to adjust the exhaust back pressure to cancel out the boost pressure. (or redesign a new expansion chamber ) If not then you blow the cylinder charge out the exhaust making a flame thrower in the process not making power.
Easy test, weld a washer on the end of the exhaust reducing the exit diameter.
Three main reasons you make a flame thrower, ignition timing, return pulse timing and port timing. You have proved the timing, I work on the basis that your port timing is correct, that leaves your expansion chamber return pressure wave timing.
With the increase of boost, you have increased the velocity of the intake charge, but your expansion chamber is not timed corectly to account for a 50% increase in volume and speed of the charge, this would mean air fuel going out the exhaust.
If the exhaust back pressure is increased it will bring the pipe and port calculations back into spec.
5 minute test, weld that washer on the end of the pipe, you tried making the stinger larger and it got worse, follow the data and make it smaller and see what happens. Bet you it will rev a load better and you will find that lost power that.
This is the reason Turbos work on two strokes as they naturally produce exhasut back pressure
From what I have seen about Established titles is that they show you a plot off the side of a dirt road in a 2000 square foot patch of woods. Also that you aren’t actually becoming a lord legally. How many other people get the same pin when they purchase? I could sell paper in a frame saying you are a lord for a lot cheaper if you want.
I think it would be a good idea to go back to the idea with rotary valves. To me it looks like most of the fuel and pressure just blows through on high rpms, like the pulses from the exhaust doesn't so anything. That's at least consistent with the fact that it got worse with more boost.
Mind I don't know anything 😆
😁I have a secret plan that involves a rotary exhaust valve, transfer reeds, and the pipe. Just want to see how well it can do without all that first.(not very well atm...)
@@2STROKESTUFFING 🤫🫢😆
Thanks for all the great work so far , love watching every episode. Now for temperature, the blower will be increasing that air temp and would be interesting to know how much, maybe touch the air inlet or place a sensor just before carb, all EFI set ups monitor temperature and some do air pressure as well. Which might become a issue with the thin air at Bonneville be at seven thousand feet above the sea.
This is quickly becoming my favorite channel! But about the becoming al lord en efrything do you get it on your plane tickets and stuff?
As an engineer, I would put the carburetor ahead of the supercharger, because through the supercharger the fuel can mix much better with the air, and you can get much cleaner combustion. Currently, I am working on a similar supercharged 2-stroke that has this order, and with this 1-liter engine we were able to produce 115 hp with 90 octane petrol, and 2.4 bar pressure.
Don't get me wrong, your engine is absolutely fantastic, but I have a strong feeling that this can be a solution: carburetor-> supercharger-> engine.
Keep up the great work!
I honestly wondered if you were getting post ignition (pulse jet effect) while watching you last video. This is a fascinating experiment to watch. A must for those that really want to understand how the combustion system works. Always looking forward to you next videos each week. Sorry you got caught up in all the scam talk nonsense.
I like your videos very much, i think that the blower makes to much pressure and is just pushing a part of the gas through the burning chamber when the exhaust aud intake ports are both oben, then ignite from the hot air in the pipe. Thats why it makes a pulsejet. Good luck
Your videos are fascinating to watch for engine design, i feel your pain to achieving your goal. As a fellow engineer it's great to see the process of your thoughts, inspiring even. I have had this idea a for 2 stroke petrol with oil sump and oil control ring, that closely relates that of Detroit Diesel. To start engine it would need electric turbo, then a switch to standard one once running (with air and exhaust storage either side to 'soften' pulses). Mass airflow meter, map sensor, ecu with possible map switching and pressurised destratified direct injection to eliminate fuel waste and misfire. I feel full computer control could be solution for more efficient engine vs a 4 stroke even. The rotary exhaust timing control being the best idea yet of yours. Could this work?
Not without a blower unfortunately, even the turbo Detroits are twin charged rather than straight turbo. You could certainly have a clutched pulley to relieve the engine of blower drag once you're in an adequate boost condition though. If that was the only thing stopping you, start drawing it up! We need more mad scientist engineering on YT!
@@maccadan90 The electric turbo is for starting only.
@@simonhare7369 How are you going to push air into the cylinder at idle? or Under any condition except high boost? Especially with an exhaust storage chamber as you call it, you're losing all of the effective power to drive a turbo, much less drive one at idle. You will require a positive displacement pump, not a centrifugal one like a turbo. You must force air into the cylinder under all conditions.
There is the hope that once started via the electric turbo, then switched over to the exhaust driven turbo (both functions could be combined into one special design) there will be enough expansion of exhaust gases to sufficiently rotate/boost the intake side of the turbo without a displacement pump, i.e. use of the crankcase.
@@simonhare7369 Unfortunately my friend, the hope is misguided. You don't need to use the crankcase, but you will need a blower. Otherwise there's nothing moving air. Since engines are primarily air pumps, you simply won't achieve a very useful engine if it runs at all. There's no load applied to produce the pressure wave you need to drive the turbo, and you're talking about further reducing that capacity with a high volume exhaust jacket. Since a turbo is a centrifugal pump in principal, it's simply incorrect to assume it can handle engine airflow requirements until it is flowing in a useful region of its compressor map. Keep researching! You can do this, don't skip the details
I just had a thought about when your engine goes into "Pulse Jet Mode".
Would increasing the length of the Exhaust Stinger help generate more heat inside the Expansion Chamber, and prevent efficiency loss due to the cooling effect?
Since then the Exhaust would then be generating it's own heat source from burning unburnt fuel and not taking heat from the engine.
With the volume of mixture and air though the engine. I would be expecting to start seeing the exhaust glowing hot.
Next week's sponsor. Kimikoto knives 😁
🤣 I've learned my lesson.
I remember a story Don Garlits (Top Fuel pioneer) once told in a video: He was running the 392ci Hemi engine by Dodge and doing well, then Dodge came out with the new 426ci Hemi. He tried it but consistently ran slower than with his 392, so he went back to his 392.
He was sponsored by Dodge and the boss called him and said: You must run the 426 hemi.
After endless trying he could not run quicker that the 392 and he was so sick of it he just turned the distributor to max timing, if it blows it blows.
He ran the fastest time he even ran. Engine was happy, no broken parts.
Turned out the larger combustion chamber of the 426 needed WAY more timing advance than he thought was safe, because nitro burns slowly.
Moral of the story, don't be afraid of timing advance with nitro, especially later when you go for higher nitro mixtures.
I have no experience with nitro myself, but I'm fascinated with it and thought I would share the story :)
Love this channel!
Let's go I love this engine!!
Exclusively Nordic engine problems: not running hot enough.
I thought my motorcycle temperature gauge was broken until one really hot summer day riding stop and go traffic in a city I saw the needle move a bit.
Oh, and love the radiator support chair.
I think an engine with less radical port timing but still having high flow (challenging I know) would benefit more from the blower than port timing designed for using exhaust pressure/pulses. Higher boost pressures (on this engine) may just flood the exhaust with unburned fuel.
P.S. You handled the Lord/Lady thing better than any of the other channels I have seen.
Time will tell the truth.
Alex did handle the Lord/Lady thing really well didn't he!
Just as a bit of info, this engine has achieved 18300 RPM using the Roots blower and speedway carb with 15deg of timing.
I know guys who have run methanol in their derby cars without a radiator. Just looped the hoses from the output of the engine to the input of the water pump. Never overheats. Sometimes have frost on the intake manifold after the derby.
Most Monster trucks do not run cooling systems. They just add more methanol to cool the engine down.
This series is hyping me soooo much
I think you did a great job explaining the Established Titles situation and how it affects you. You didn't throw them under the bus, but you showed your willingness to support or not support them based on future evidence. You are right in saying that it is not your job to defend the company. I think everything you said was reasonable. If I were Established Titles I would be worried and I would make an attempt to prove the legitimacy of my claims.
I wondered when you'd acknowledge the sponsor issue. I've heard you can't legally visit the plot you supposedly own. I would hope they are actually donating some of the money. If not I believe it is a scam and should be listed as a novelty gift only. I could respect that.
If you can't visit your dedicated plot, scam.
Perfect start to a Saturday morning here in New Zealand
WTF was that spill 🤷♂️ and it was all sounding so sweet 👍✌️🇬🇧
Oil from bursted exhaust extraction tubing.
@@2STROKESTUFFING I thought it very strange you didn't really comment on where the oil came from!
@@malcrandall1309 I did, but was cut out of the edit by accident...
try running a 5k or 10k resistor inline with your ignition input from the engine to ignition control box, there are quite a few people with motorcycles and aftermarket ECU that have this issue of hitting a fake hard rev limit.
or try soldering a 5k resistor from the signal to return ( if a reluctor pickup ) or a 1k resistor from 5V to Signal ( if a hall effects sensor) and see if that gives nay improvement.
I think it's a scam because the marketing material they gave you and other creators is dishonest. "You can legally become a lord or lady."
Which is absolutely a lie. Hence, dishonest and therefore a scam.
You could burn straight alcohol and monitor afr. Adding in nitro after having a working engine is straight forward.
I just don't understand how established titles, or any of its advertisers can act like it's not a lie or false advertising. all the advertisers are pretending like it's not a problem. They knew it was lie but yet they keep perpetuating the lie and then wonder why people are mad. The lack of credibility is amazing through the whole scam. The fact of becoming of a lord is the entire motive to get people to pay for trees being planted, except you can't, even tho they are telling you that you can. Pretending everyone knew it wasn't possible to become a lord it's a true lack of responsibility. Why would anyone think that when their being told it is possible?? Like being told you won the lottery but you can't have the money..
Also, you don't legally own any land, or even have part ownership in any land, and there's no proof any money at all is going towards the promised trees being planted.
What is known is that Established Titles are profitable, and (at least until a couple of weeks back) giving out a lot of money in social media sponsorship deals. Any percentage being given to plant trees is going to be minimal. I would't be surprised, now that the scam has been exposed, for them to simply fold up their tent and move on to selling another imaginary bridge.
I think the overlap is causing the pulsejet effect, by blowing some mixture straight through the engine without having a chance to combust where it's supposed to, the combustion chamber.
That is exactly what I was wondering. It’s seems there is the possibility that the inlet and exhaust ports are wide open for a good period of time.
As you say the fuel MUST be fully combusted prior to the exhaust port opening otherwise the fresh mixture will ignite in the expansion chamber giving the pulse jet effect which people seem to like. This ruins resonance in the pipe turning it into a flame thrower nothing else.
Man I’m addicted to watching these videos, I hope you get this issue figured out. I want to see your engine break some records