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Glow plug conversion ? A model methanol engine uses a glow plug, and a combination of heat and the methanol reacting with the platinum wire in the plug keeps it running. Make an adapter to fit a model glow plug into the spark plug hole and see what happens. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Yeah thats what i was about to writte you last time .. I was thinking about heating coolant faster , but why ? Normal 50 cc engine only contains 1 or 1,2 liter coolant ... Ow yeah you could put it in a microwave for pre heating it. Ignition is also what i thought the last few video's , haha. Verry inspiring
I’ve been more invested in the precise engineering of this little 2 stroke than any wacky car build youtubers have come up with. The pursuit of perfection over shock value is refreshing
Your definitely on the right path. Be aware though that running that CDI with four parallel outputs is essentially quadrupling the capacitance it dumps into the primary of the coil. So basically you spark time length is quadrupled. At high revs this will be like a continuous spark. I know it sounds counter intuitive but try just two channels and then three etc. Also and this is more important than you would think. Lead length from the CDI to the coil and the return ground both have inductance. Try making the wiring from the CDI to the coil as short as possible and if you can twisting the heavy current carrying ground and primary wires to reduce ground loop size. This will reduce the inductance a bit more if you can't get them physically really close. Loving the videos👊👊
hear this: If the spark is more or less continues like you mentioned at high revs. This would bake the ignition advance sett more or less make not difference. Which could explain why setting such high ignition seams to even work. And it might actually be why cutting the stinger off to reduce the spent gasses in the cylinder makes it run worse! Remember, the spark is more or less continues and with a properly fresh mixture now (with the singer cut off) it is able to ignite the mixture earlier, to early.
About the heat theory: It’s a totally different engine size but I like to run old COX Rc-nitro engines. These are really small, like 0.8cc and rev up to 25‘000 rpm. They need an insane amount of oil, like 20-25%. One thing i discovered while running them in the winter is that the cylinder and the head need to be really hot. Otherwise, they will not rev up properly. The same goes for bigger RC-plane nitro engines. Some guys cover the cooling fins for winter flying so that the engines get up to temperature.
Yeah I used to have an old line control Cox I had to heat the head with a small torch to start the engine in the winter time I think heat is definitely one of his issues with the amount of methanol he’s running the intake air temp is probably getting way colder than it needs to be
thinking the same that PIP engine needs to be more like a 50cc nitro engine with air cooling and smaller cooling finns. remember as a kid that i needed to use a heatgun to prewarm my engine in the rc car to start it during winter (kyosho gs11 engine)
@@youtubeurevil can agree we are not experts on these engines so to come up with ideas and discuss them is how i see it a acceptable and fun way t learn from each other.
Have you thought about using 2 coils in parallel? Your coil might not be able to charge fully (dwell time) at 15k rpm. You could split the output of the ignition unit to 2 coils firing 360 degrees appart so the coils have twice the time to fully charge if you catch my drift!
My old Mopar has two Sera of points to increase the dwell time but in an inductive environment. Than along came cci with its multi strike approach to increase pulse length (aka:pulse train).
Firing one coil into another seems like a recipe for disaster. A proper high energy coil and driver designed for this kind of application would be the way to go, though finding something compact enough for a bike application might be tricky.
It’s evident that you have this project on your mind almost always, sitting with problems and coming up with theories about why and how to solve them. Super interesting to follow your journey! Thank you 🙏
This was a very exciting episode! Also lets point out how impressive it is that the engine has happily held together just fine for hours of beating on it on the Dyno while testing. If you aren't able to get enough heat into the combustion chamber, a very high pressure fuel injector (like in Direct Injected cars) probably would vaporize the fuel and oil mix enough. I know you have talked about EFI many times however you are starting to push the boundaries of the properties of fuel in a carburetor.
Should just run ignition timing numbers for nitro not petrol. Fuel delivery is fuel delivery. Injector or jet same shit he just needs to see what his air fuel ratios actually are.
Atomization and "Vaporizing" the fuel is a load of crap. Marketing words for injectors. Stuff that never mattered. Fuel wants to become homogenous when air runs over it no matter what. Have you ever seen a nitro engines need for volume of fuel ? The mixture is almost a solid when at top dead center with how much fuel is in the cylinder at a time. th-cam.com/video/xGTbQuhhluY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=KrisKelso
@@MrJermbob agree.. nitro ignition timing require much more advance than normal gasoline... Even e85 require about 15% more ignition advance than normal gasoline... Nitro/alcohol/methanol probably around 30-40% ignition advance than gasoline... As well as high energy spark (high voltage) Hence we often see top fuel dragster runs super big coil distributor for their big blower engine application...
@@AmirPomen I've seen some place (I think Rob Wendland) talking about this. Aside from the ridiculous voltage and amperage used on the top fuel cars, they also run a relatively long duration spark to ensure full ignition.
You can see it keeps getting better and better each video, 32hp and still pushing for more. From my experience with 4cyl boosted engines, Spark plug gap becomes more critical in higher boost levels. Not sure you are having that issue yet, but the rush of charge air can blow out the spark if your gap is too large. I was sure the stinger was causing a restriction issue and was surprised making the diameter larger made it worse. Keep up the great work. Love this video series
32hp is a clickbait. Look at how much the power number is oscillating (the lower middle one on his screen). It swings from 2hp to over 20 in an instant.. 😀 Average power seems to be around 5-7hp when the reading is stable, which is nothing from a nitro engine even this size
@@ASoftaaja yes the dyno is oscillating between 5 and 30hp between individual samples so I wouldn't trust any readings until the engine and the dyno can maintain consistent and stable values. even then it would need to be calibrated properly. for reference a stock bidalot wr50rf makes more than 20hp at the wheel , 23hp at the crank on real dynos with transmission and standard gas and it's not only making lot of peak power but also a relatively wide powerband and did set a lot of world records on the flat salts (hence the WR name)
@@ASoftaaja What geemy said. Having problems with choking, backfire and ignition issues is why it oscillates so much. We'll just have to wait and see what she puts down when it's fleshed out.
Ill have you know, this is my favorite "take the carb off channel" and my favorite "drill holes in stuff channel" and my favorite "manufacture parts that may or may not work channel" and ... Well you get the idea.
Since you cut the stinger off, trim the pipe back until you can weld on another stinger of larger diameter and play with the length of it. To me it seemed the stinger length warmed up the air on the pulses just enough and removing the stinger the pipe was sucking straight cold air on the pulses cold air being denser having more pop that was the pops you saw out the exhaust on the pulses
My ordinary condition when following UT thingi-danglers is to see how they got thingies fixed. Your channel drives me the opposite way. I´m thrilled to follow all the obstacles and miscalculations, thinkings and failing experimental settings. Your obsession to grow your experience by failing and overcome to the next step is absolute stunning for me. Your mental calm to counterattattck each every lack of knowledge while constantly growing knowledge against all odds is impressive. By the way: thx for the music of choice. Fits perfect. Thx a lot for your approach fixing this thingie not straight forward by some rulebook.
I used to help a vintage grass bike racer build his bikes & engines (Rudge Ulster 500cc), which ran on methanol. The cylinders had to have all but the top 3 fins removed, otherwise the engines would not run very well. This is because methanol enters the cylinder as a liquid spray and sucks all the heat away. The main jets, on Rudge 500cc grass bike engines, are massive. The engines were Rudge 500cc with Rudge patented Radial Four Valve phosphor bronze cylinder heads running methanol through AMAL & Jikov methanol carbs.
In our nitro harley we can't burn as much fuel at higher rpm due to loss of load. I know with your 2 stroke we are talking apples and oranges, but that should not change that charateristic of fuel. Load will play a large part in your tuning. For us we load it up at the hit. Then as we go down track we take fuel away. In our carburated were not allowed to take timing in or out. The injected guys are so they do both. This will increase as your percentage increases. And your ability to use AFR readings will cease at some point. As percentage increases your hydrocarbon fuel decreases and you wont have enough 02 to read. Goodbye carbon dioxide hello nitric acid. I enjoy your adventure. Best of luck with it.
The lack of heat is perplexing. You may be on to something there. You have a large amount of engine metal for such a small engine. I doubt any manufactured engine ever built could withstand what you have put this PIP through! That is a victory in itself, sir.
Nitro at the volume he uses is cooling the engine from the inside out. That is the point of running alcohol or nitro fuels. Lots of manufactured engines take much more abuse and run stronger for longer.
Maybe you need an auto adjusting exhaust like the one I had on my nitro car. Theres a plunger inside that pushes back and opens a second exhaust exit when pressure gets higher
Remember, the ignition advance is the time from spark to max pressure - the angle translates as a time. The smaller the advance the more efficient your combustion. Perhaps a knock sensor would give you a measurement of cylinder pressure to match you advance with fuel mix. You need better instrumentation, you can't 'just try' , you are far beyond that. How that motor sticks together is something else. Have you had any siezures? Other than when you buy more fuel for the project?
I don't know if it is in anyway related but back in the day when our 50cc 2 strokes bikes where cold they also kinda chocked in higher RPM, after warming the engine up with a few stuttering pulls they would suddenly come alive. This was especially so for the higher modificated engines. So from my very very limited knowledge and view, your theory sounds very plausible :)
The reason why they are hard to start is because the petrol condenses against the cylinder wall (because its cold) and won't start. That's what the choke is for, to compensate for the condensation.
In regards to the title, I remember hearing about top fuel cars and how they use 2x40amp (if remembered correctly) magnetos for spark so that the spark had some time to dwell because theres so much nitromethane in the cylinder. That and horrendous amounts of timing. Anyway keep at it, absolutely brilliant to watch and an inspiration for anyone who has ever hit a wall and gave up on something they worked so hard to accomplish. .
Something I learned from Marc Salvisberg is that it takes a long time for engine temperatures to stabilize. To begin, he would put the bike on the dyno with a light load at 3k RPM for 20 minutes. Then check engine casting temps around the crank with a non-contact IR thermometer until the numbers stabilized. This usually took around 45 minutes! He didn't pay much attention to bulk coolant temperature, so long as it was in a normal range. I hope this helps and good luck with your development project!
@@Frank-Thoresen It only needs to be done once to establish a baseline. Doing this at the end of a long dyno session minimizes additional run time. Once the target crankcase temp has been established, a number of methods can be employed to achieve it. A very cheap and easy way to do this is by directing two heat lamps at the crankcase and covering the works with a blanket until the target temp is reached. More sophisticated systems employing a thermostat have many advantages, especially if ambient temp is low and/or you're taking long breaks through the session. When doing root cause analysis, it's very important to minimize the number of variables. So I'd be inclined to fab a thermostatically controlled system on a project such as this.
Instead of heating the entire tank of water he can bleed input flow out or mix some of the heat back in and that way reduce the headache of stabilise the entire tank. I guess i am describing the function of an termostat that is adjustable.
Isn't this engine using a more conventional piston design? As opposed to the one for the 100% port engine. You're right though, it's definitely reliable if I can't remember the last time I saw it out XD
Actually, I don't think it was often a problem with the piston, more the cylinder and the rings interfacing with the ports. It's been more reliable since he reduced the size of the ports.
@@chrishartley1210 yeah that was the issue he was having the way the ports was done and the sleeve but since he sorted it the piston has been running strong even with boost alcohol and normal fuel changes and the engine going under different pressures and fuel ratios with all testing I am impressed it’s amazing how fair the engine has come
When you eventually go efi route, what about a efi system similar to the old “single point injection” on late 80s/early 90s cars. Computer control replicant of the carburettor, no port or crankcase injection. Easier to get reliable quick changes to fuel supply. Also could use the 4x coil supplies onto one plug to ensure the coils can saturate well enough between each ignition?
The only problem with that is rpm. Those cannot really supply enough fuel at high rpm with boost. A constant injection would be probably needed. I think KTM used this method on their newer 2 strokes.
@@Frank-Thoresen you can inject fuel-oil mixture without a problem. The only problem is that none of the injectors on the market can supply this amount of fuel at that rpm.
He discussed why port injection doesn't work well on two strokes in a previous video. The fuel needs to be injected into the transfer port(s) at a specific time during scavenging to get a consistent mixture in the cylinder.
Maybe limiting the boost pressure with a wastegate could help you figure out what's happening at different pressure levels. In my humble opinion it would have an impact with all that.
Even on established forced air induction systems spark plug gap can make or break a tune. It's crazy how close you are to fine tuning all this from the ground up. All these different parts not made to work together working in harmony in such a small window to work well. just mind blowing!
Cooling to much as you said is probably right. I'm also thinking that maybe some more time area on the exhaust port. Not extra duration but extra area. With the higher pressure now, maybe it needs a larger port? 🤔
Correct me if in wrong. On a 2 stroke without writing an essay the exhaust is shaped the way it is to allow the engine to have a "virtual valve" using the backpressure wave, I always thought this was to keep a hotter richer mix ready for combustion, with a turbo there you don't want that same back pressure as you're effectively "saturating" the chamber with new fuel rich gas. So don't have the need for the wave of pressure the exhaust creates. In other simpler words I think you're onto something with the extra byproduct of burning nitro fuel. Chop off the exhaust at the widest part. Nitro car fuel is notoriously dirty, I used to race the cars. The residue is enormous from unburnt oil. There's poss not enough time for the exhaust port to get rid of all the spent fuel/oil
Have you looked at running a resistor in line with the ignition input to help filter out some of the electrical noise? Its pretty common on aftermarket ecu etc when it comes to high reving engines. The higher the engine speed the more noise is generated and its like they hit a rev limiter like yours is doing. Superfast Matt had the same issue with high reving engines in his latest TH-cam video.
As much as I’m loving this forced induction concept I’d like to see you go back to your original pip design, no blower, and use the second intake at high rpm. Be much better option to run on the salt flat Keep up the good work Alex 👍
You're getting there! Glad that a few suggestions were helpful. E.g., Advancing the timing due to nitro and methanol's relatively slow burn rate (compared to gasoline and methanol). Increase the spark energy exponentially to fire-off the difficult to burn nitromethane. Reduce the oil content to between 2 and 4% (the engine's anti-friction bearings don't require any more than that... with a good synthetic (e.g., polyol esters) . Note that higher percentages of nitro require greater and greater ignition advance. Buy the way, forget about trying to vaporize nitro. The very high flow rates (even at stoichiometric A/F-1.7/1), minimize the chances of adding anywhere the amount of heat to initiate vaporization (258 btu/lb); methanol is worse at 472 btu/lb; gasoline is only 135 btu/lb; A high degree of atomization is about the best you can hope for... but the unburned (liquid) nitro helps to cool the cylinder-another irony! Your radio-controlled car required relatively high percentages (14-16%) of lube in the fuel because the connecting rod was fitted with bushings-not anti friction bearings, as is yours. As far as being able to attain a clean throttle-response throughout the rpm-range with 30-40% nitro R/C engines fitted with carburetors... that was almost impossible to achieve without the oil-content cooling off the engine's glow plug element. We were able to reduce that problem by incorporating electronic fuel injection, which incorporated a mapping procedure (time-consuming). You really need to measure the actual A/F of the meth-nitro mix that you're using. Have fun! I HAVE A BOOK FOR YOU. HOW CAN I CONTACT YOU (NOT BY SOCIAL MEDIA)?
Alex.. had this issue on my rc gas boat engines when heavily modified. It seemed when I ported past a certain exh timing it would do it. The fix according to all my testing on the engine dyno was a larger pipe and stinger. Still hit at the same rpm but did not fall off and hit the misfire window I had battled on water testing in the boat for 2 years. The engine dyno I built and you have seen was allowing me to test much quicker without risking the expensive boats. Food for thought. This was my exact problem. When I built a larger stinger alone it made zero difference. It needed the larger volume pipe!! Can't wait to see what your cure is. Great work so far bud!!
@@2STROKESTUFFING Maybe reduce the coolant flow a bit (like a thermostat does) and let the engine heat up more itself. Or keep the same flow rate and tape up the radiator so it doesn't sink so much heat out of the coolant. (As I say that, i wonder does it have a radiator, I forgot) Re the stinger, remember smaller stinger is higher CC temp, so increasing diameter as you have will make the CC cooler and is it worsens the lack of revving condition that may also point to it being a heat issue, or lack of.
@@2STROKESTUFFING My methanol cans are black... the day I left one out in the sun at the race track it got plenty warm... then I filled the bike's tank with warm methanol... The engine took WAY less time to get up to operating temp. There's definitely something to the fuel heating theory.
@@2STROKESTUFFING Sorry to say, you'll never generate enough heat to vaporize nitromethane at fuel rates approaching its stoichiometric A/F (1.7/1). Atomization (breaking up the liquid) is as good as it gets, noting that the unburned fuel cools the combustion chamber.
@@AuMechanic When Alex used to test his engines at winter room temperature, I said the engine needs warming up first but got slated in the comments from viewers. How things have changed!
It is the exhaust mixing with the intake. change the bore design to have the exhaust port exit right above the intake to prevent them mixing or the boost chase exhaust out. also add fins inside the exhaust pipe like a torque converter to assist in exhaust gasses only exited out one way. Thanks Ant's
I wondered about this as well. In this case though it is a very small (50cc) piston so the flame path is much shorter than a top fuel car. My 85mm bore methanol race engine ran better with 2 plugs though.
Header lenght from piston to pipe is very important. Set up a removable pipe in-between header and pipe, cut differant sizes & try. A Slippy Pipe would tell you what you need to make, as you already know.
@@nathanbutler8240 that would be the best tool but a belt sander would work fine too most metering rods that I have seen are brass he could easily make a lectron rod with what he has
@@Skaadi89 yeah you can do it with a belt sander, I mean I could do it with a chisel and hammer lol but something like a metering rod that measures the taper in the thousandths shouldn't be done on a belt sander by hand
Hey man - the inconsistency of the revving (almost) whenever you keep the throttle in one place (ex. 85% throttle), in relation to the fact the it varies very little in behavior no matter how much you play around with mixture, gives me strong associations towards my old very tuned Kreidler moped that acted all funny no matter what we did to it - until we realized it that the aluminum carb manifold had cracked and therefore the mixture kept changing all the time as the carb moved slightly around. I don’t think your engine gets ‘false air’ but to me it surely acts like the mixture isn’t consistent to what you set it to. I really think you should do what ever you can to make sure that it only gets fuel from safe sources in the carb, and fully lock out all alternate fuel channels (as in hoses that aren’t clamped well enough) 😅 And my belief in this theory is strengthened by how compliant your engine is - that cylinder is eating what ever you throw at it, and I amazed I score the plating yet. But the compliance despite your large adjustments, really makes me think you have a false fueling source somewhere that doesn’t deliver consistently. Try to narrow the fuel sources down to as few as possible, and make sure they are fully shut. And then make sure another time around so they are actually shut 😅 Love your proces - hey hey Fra Danmark og bliv med at prøve!
I do like the shots of the flame coming out of the exhaust. The internals of the engine seem to be holding up pretty well to the dyno abuse. The piston, cylinder, and rod don't seem to have any issue at all.
The reason you're able to run so much timing is because you don't have high enough compression in that engine and you're having to compensate by adding timing to make more cylinder pressure. You can almost put out a match in high octane nitro like the top fuel dragsters use but you smack it with a hammer it goes boom. Clay Millican has a video on it
Hi Nathan. One hundred percent (neat) Nitromethane has an effective octane rating of 40 at its stoichiometric A/F (1.7/1). Therefore, nitro is very prone to detonation (knock) in the engine's combustion chamber. This is why compression ratios are deliberately reduced as the nitro content (%) is increased-an inverse relationship. Also, nitromethane's A/F must be kept on the rich side of stoichiometric to help with cylinder cooling; a lean run is almost always catastrophic to the engine....
Hi! 1.Preheat the fuel at 80oC(you can use heating resistence from the refrigeration system ...or put an cooper pipe for the fuel and circle around the exhaust pipe !) 2.put spark plug(iridium tip) without resistance and replace wire from the sparkplug with cooper multifilar wire
I’ve been watching this because at some point I was working on a DKW two stroke car and saw your first engine project. I believe that you won’t gonna be able to rev it much past the 15k mark you’re at because it just can’t. The compressor requires power to rev and the engine just simply can’t get enough fuel inside to generate it. I think that doesn’t matter how much fuel and air you shove into it it will escape directly to the exhaust, which would explain the explosions on the exhaust. You might be near the limit on this project. On a NA engine you would be able to rev easily past that because it wouldn’t lose power to the supercharger. Compressors also have a ideal work range, in terms of pressure and rpm. Maybe you need to change it to rev. Keep on trying I’ll keep watching
In your typical RC car motor they are using a glow plug that acts like a catalytic converter once heated electrically, producing the heat you need to keep firing the nitromethane and continue running the engine. too many times I have had those break while the engine was already running and as soon as the engine stops, its done for, but up until that point it stays hot, even if the wire inside was broken due to the catalytic conversion, I'm not sure what the plugs are made with inside but guessing platinum or rhodium?
Wouldent work the amount of oil in that rc mix would just destroy the o2 sensor in matter of minutes, and the exhaust gasses i think are to low temp for the o2 sensor
Iridium spark plugs were created for engines with high dynamic compression in the first place. Iridium is radioactive and is making the gases in the immediate vicinity easier to ionize. That means a spark doesn't have to be as high voltage to jump the gap. In high pressure situations the ion channel of the spark needs much more voltage to ignite and iridium just like thorium in thoriated tungsten electrodes make this much easier because of the ionizing radiation.
It's 3.30 AM and just finished reading most of the 1109 comments posted, and still buzzing. PiP has a lot to answer for! Not long to wait now hopefully for the next installment of Alex's 2STROKESTUFFING. Warm the water up Alex!
The Nord 'infomercial' was v. funny actually. Considering the context of the presenter and his channel I feel they'd be rather happy with that effort LOL.
Why cold starts require more fuel is because the cold cylinder walls condensing the fuel. Gasoline burns the hottest with different temperature sparkplugs. While diesel and alcohol burn cooler. Nitro RC cars use a glow plug like a diesel and top fuel dragster don't even use coolant for a 4 second run before rebuilding the engine and go again. I'm absolutely not an expert in all this heat management but I think it's the right track to try with a hotter engine coolant loop.
Find a MSD 6AL ignition box, that'll amp up the sparke quite a bit and its simple to hook up to anything with a single ignition coil. Or a Boost-a-spark. Both should work
I'm not an expert, but in my opinion the expansion chamber is to long (the header to be specific). So the rolling back pressure wave collides with the following one from the next exhaust 'stroke'. and having the engine on boost makes for some strong exhaustpulses which disturb the exhaust flow even harder. it basically chokes on it's own expansion pulses being not synced with the engine at the higher rpm's.
I really appreciate your approach. I am learning sooo much. I used to play at tuning 2 stroke Model aircraft engines and the heat of the glow plug was a key aspect when increasing RPM and fuel volumes. Keep going so I can keep learning... Thank you
When I raced 125 rotax karts, I had an engine that only ran between 58 to 60c. Any lower, and it would feel like it's "4stroking". It would sound deep and like it's overfueling. Leaning the main jet helped this, which in turn heated the engine up. Running a less oil in fuel also had the same effect. On cold days, you would just tape up the radiator. When you had days where the engine was running hot, sometimes putting a larger main jet in actually made things worse. If you were running hot with a high main jet, we would have to change the plug and adjust the air mixture screw by 2 or 3 turns. Sometimes it was only open 1/2 turn on really hot days. On cold wet days it could be open 3 1/2 turns.
23:36 It's not the oil. That's just normal for methanol. I often see condensation on the intake manifolds of my 4-cycle nitro RC engines when running them on the test stand because of that. Easy way to counter that is to run less coolant flow, or even put it on a thermostat where it doesn't flow coolant at all until it reaches a certain minimum temp.
I think the problem may be the temperature in the combustion chamber. Warmer air ionizes more easily, which is conducive to creating a spark at the spark plug. Leaning the fuel mixture increases the combustion temperature, which affects the ease of igniting the mixture. Another thing that comes to my mind is the problem with the proper charging of the coil at high revs. increasing the ignition advance angle gives it more time to charge, but the ignition may occur much later than you assume. My professor in college mentioned such a parameter as ignition delay caused by the coil charging time. By reducing the distance between the electrodes of the spark plug, the coil must produce less energy to spark. For tuning two-stroke engines, I use wideband lambda sensors from diesel engines (bosch lsu 4.9). I buy them used on scrap so even though they don't work for too long, it's not too expensive and you can check the composition of the mixture.
Rc engines have insane ignition timing, the glow plug advances the timing the higher you push the engine, as the cooldown time is less. It’s not the oil, we had no trouble hitting 17k with the methanol 250cc formula two stroke. It loved fuel, seriously loved it. We just poured more fuel and more timing and the happier it got.
22:00 If it likes 30 degrees it likes 30 degrees. Makes sense to me on the standpoint of fuel burning at a fixed rate and thus needing to be ignited sooner to give peak pressure when the piston is most able to extract power from that pressure.
This is so very fascinating, tuning in every week intently following all of his hard-won developments, every up and down.. and up! From the time seeing this 37,000 thousand people have watched this video too. Was wondering if all of them found it as interesting and entertaining as I have. Okay keep up the good work👏
Hey, Keith... you are on the right track! I believe that Alex's crankcase needs to be heated (electrically) until the cylinder temperature comes up to optimum (about 275-300 deg. F, with various percentages of nitromethane/methanol fuel)-then the heater can be turned off or its temperature decreased (to be determined by experiment). However, I have found that if full crankcase-heat is run continuously, the engine's power will drop by 20% or more.
@David Gierke Yeah that's why there's a percentage of crankcase size to engine cc. The blower is cooling things as well. The cases could have a coolant chamber around it as well. This would keep it at a consistent temp. But I really believe that if the volume was brought jack to a more normal size, it would behave better & be more consistent.
It might be worth it to pick up or borrow a (relatively) cheap oscilloscope with ignition monitoring probes for some more data on your spark voltage waveforms.
interheater, heat the air charge, possibly using coolant (if you have any), as an alternative to running an electric intake heater. If you're running super rich, then you can lean it off a fair bit by heating the air charge, AND bring up the intake enough for stochastic benefits. Intake heating is normal in aviation and ultra high compression diesel. The purpose here would be a bit different, the 2cycle is running at way too high RPM + rich to heat due to how much fuel evap is happening, rich cools engines, so you need to encourage heat at all times, ESPECIALLY during high RPM, unlike aviation or automotive where you need the warmer air to get a stronger start.
I started writing about the advance in timing being needed because of the engine speed being too fast to get enough out of the expansion of igniting vapors but the end of your video kinda summed up my thoughts better than I had them.
Loopdeloop the coolant to test, you could also wrap a heat mat around the fuel jug. And you should look into what some here comments. Split the spark in two, to make sure they fire at full power at the desired rpm
in the past when i build a lot of kart engines like the fr125 rotax max i always tune the cooling system to around 67gr and even run them very lean to get max performance without problems .........................you will get there .
I've seen turbo banshees that make the beans, and they do not use chambers, just 2 straight exhaust primaries to the turbo, no longer relying on typical 2stroke/chamber intake/exhaust pulse/flow behaviors. I would assume this is to address intake and exhaust overlap characteristics under boost.
i am so invested in this engine and you making this thing a true marvel of engineering, dont get me wrong it is a marvel now but to see this power something preferably down a dragstrip would be just insane. I eagerly await the next video my friend
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What does the torque curve look like coming up to the 15k wall?
Quality and quantity of content lacking compared to the shilling of nordvpn unsubscribbed.
Glow plug conversion ?
A model methanol engine uses a glow plug, and a combination of heat and the methanol reacting with the platinum wire in the plug keeps it running.
Make an adapter to fit a model glow plug into the spark plug hole and see what happens.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
U can do an injection fuel delivery system, with basic Arduino. 😊
Yeah thats what i was about to writte you last time .. I was thinking about heating coolant faster , but why ? Normal 50 cc engine only contains 1 or 1,2 liter coolant ... Ow yeah you could put it in a microwave for pre heating it. Ignition is also what i thought the last few video's , haha. Verry inspiring
You should put “Well that seems dangerous, lets try it” on a shirt 😂
I'd buy one 👍
@@nickwalker7837 me too
🤩
So would I!
Just heard this as I read the comment😂
I’ve been more invested in the precise engineering of this little 2 stroke than any wacky car build youtubers have come up with. The pursuit of perfection over shock value is refreshing
Every time i see these videos i want to mess with the measuring setup. Rubber inserts for the pressure sensor to reduce the Oscillation etc.
Absolutely not precise engineering. Absolutely not! Its still impressive and interesting.
@@MerlinTheMagic12 depends on what precise engineering means to you
2strokestuffing and Taylor Rays c6 drift build for me XD
The dumbfaced thumbnails ruin everything for me
Your definitely on the right path. Be aware though that running that CDI with four parallel outputs is essentially quadrupling the capacitance it dumps into the primary of the coil. So basically you spark time length is quadrupled. At high revs this will be like a continuous spark. I know it sounds counter intuitive but try just two channels and then three etc. Also and this is more important than you would think. Lead length from the CDI to the coil and the return ground both have inductance. Try making the wiring from the CDI to the coil as short as possible and if you can twisting the heavy current carrying ground and primary wires to reduce ground loop size. This will reduce the inductance a bit more if you can't get them physically really close. Loving the videos👊👊
hear this: If the spark is more or less continues like you mentioned at high revs. This would bake the ignition advance sett more or less make not difference. Which could explain why setting such high ignition seams to even work. And it might actually be why cutting the stinger off to reduce the spent gasses in the cylinder makes it run worse! Remember, the spark is more or less continues and with a properly fresh mixture now (with the singer cut off) it is able to ignite the mixture earlier, to early.
More smaller caps, fill and empty faster?
@@jeffbrinkerhoff5121 CDI is very rarely limited
About the heat theory: It’s a totally different engine size but I like to run old COX Rc-nitro engines. These are really small, like 0.8cc and rev up to 25‘000 rpm. They need an insane amount of oil, like 20-25%.
One thing i discovered while running them in the winter is that the cylinder and the head need to be really hot. Otherwise, they will not rev up properly. The same goes for bigger RC-plane nitro engines. Some guys cover the cooling fins for winter flying so that the engines get up to temperature.
Yeah I used to have an old line control Cox I had to heat the head with a small torch to start the engine in the winter time I think heat is definitely one of his issues with the amount of methanol he’s running the intake air temp is probably getting way colder than it needs to be
I have a cox 0.49 rc stick little plane and it is a headache to get it to run correctly
thinking the same that PIP engine needs to be more like a 50cc nitro engine with air cooling and smaller cooling finns.
remember as a kid that i needed to use a heatgun to prewarm my engine in the rc car to start it during winter (kyosho gs11 engine)
But these run with glow plug not the same as an ignition with spark plug... (just a guess i dont pretend to be an expert )
@@youtubeurevil can agree we are not experts on these engines so to come up with ideas and discuss them is how i see it a acceptable and fun way t learn from each other.
Have you thought about using 2 coils in parallel? Your coil might not be able to charge fully (dwell time) at 15k rpm. You could split the output of the ignition unit to 2 coils firing 360 degrees appart so the coils have twice the time to fully charge if you catch my drift!
My old Mopar has two Sera of points to increase the dwell time but in an inductive environment. Than along came cci with its multi strike approach to increase pulse length (aka:pulse train).
And maybe drop a little more voltage + amperage across it
Firing one coil into another seems like a recipe for disaster. A proper high energy coil and driver designed for this kind of application would be the way to go, though finding something compact enough for a bike application might be tricky.
I was thinking an MSD ignition.
@@TheCustomFHD that would do absolutely nothing
It’s evident that you have this project on your mind almost always, sitting with problems and coming up with theories about why and how to solve them.
Super interesting to follow your journey!
Thank you 🙏
This was a very exciting episode! Also lets point out how impressive it is that the engine has happily held together just fine for hours of beating on it on the Dyno while testing. If you aren't able to get enough heat into the combustion chamber, a very high pressure fuel injector (like in Direct Injected cars) probably would vaporize the fuel and oil mix enough. I know you have talked about EFI many times however you are starting to push the boundaries of the properties of fuel in a carburetor.
Should just run ignition timing numbers for nitro not petrol. Fuel delivery is fuel delivery. Injector or jet same shit he just needs to see what his air fuel ratios actually are.
Atomization and "Vaporizing" the fuel is a load of crap. Marketing words for injectors. Stuff that never mattered. Fuel wants to become homogenous when air runs over it no matter what. Have you ever seen a nitro engines need for volume of fuel ? The mixture is almost a solid when at top dead center with how much fuel is in the cylinder at a time. th-cam.com/video/xGTbQuhhluY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=KrisKelso
@@MrJermbob agree.. nitro ignition timing require much more advance than normal gasoline... Even e85 require about 15% more ignition advance than normal gasoline... Nitro/alcohol/methanol probably around 30-40% ignition advance than gasoline...
As well as high energy spark (high voltage)
Hence we often see top fuel dragster runs super big coil distributor for their big blower engine application...
@@AmirPomen I've seen some place (I think Rob Wendland) talking about this. Aside from the ridiculous voltage and amperage used on the top fuel cars, they also run a relatively long duration spark to ensure full ignition.
@@AmirPomen Magneto ignition for the win.
You can see it keeps getting better and better each video, 32hp and still pushing for more. From my experience with 4cyl boosted engines, Spark plug gap becomes more critical in higher boost levels. Not sure you are having that issue yet, but the rush of charge air can blow out the spark if your gap is too large. I was sure the stinger was causing a restriction issue and was surprised making the diameter larger made it worse. Keep up the great work. Love this video series
32hp is a clickbait. Look at how much the power number is oscillating (the lower middle one on his screen). It swings from 2hp to over 20 in an instant.. 😀 Average power seems to be around 5-7hp when the reading is stable, which is nothing from a nitro engine even this size
@@ASoftaaja yes the dyno is oscillating between 5 and 30hp between individual samples so I wouldn't trust any readings until the engine and the dyno can maintain consistent and stable values. even then it would need to be calibrated properly.
for reference a stock bidalot wr50rf makes more than 20hp at the wheel , 23hp at the crank on real dynos with transmission and standard gas and it's not only making lot of peak power but also a relatively wide powerband and did set a lot of world records on the flat salts (hence the WR name)
also a proper Dyno would help development and tuning a lot
@@ASoftaaja What geemy said. Having problems with choking, backfire and ignition issues is why it oscillates so much. We'll just have to wait and see what she puts down when it's fleshed out.
It never made 32hp. Consider all those readings as a grain of salt at this point.
Ill have you know, this is my favorite "take the carb off channel" and my favorite "drill holes in stuff channel" and my favorite "manufacture parts that may or may not work channel" and ... Well you get the idea.
Bro the flames coming out of the expansion chamber when you let off looks sick af like a blow torch with white flames 🔥
And it is a real white flame. Burn nitromethane in a dish (look for nilered white flame) and it is an eerie, pure white flame
😂 “Taking a carb off an engine channel” I love it! Lol
Since you cut the stinger off, trim the pipe back until you can weld on another stinger of larger diameter and play with the length of it. To me it seemed the stinger length warmed up the air on the pulses just enough and removing the stinger the pipe was sucking straight cold air on the pulses cold air being denser having more pop that was the pops you saw out the exhaust on the pulses
Nope.
My ordinary condition when following UT thingi-danglers is to see how they got thingies fixed.
Your channel drives me the opposite way. I´m thrilled to follow all the obstacles and miscalculations, thinkings and failing experimental settings. Your obsession to grow your experience by failing and overcome to the next step is absolute stunning for me. Your mental calm to counterattattck each every lack of knowledge while constantly growing knowledge against all odds is impressive.
By the way: thx for the music of choice. Fits perfect. Thx a lot for your approach fixing this thingie not straight forward by some rulebook.
I used to help a vintage grass bike racer build his bikes & engines (Rudge Ulster 500cc), which ran on methanol. The cylinders had to have all but the top 3 fins removed, otherwise the engines would not run very well. This is because methanol enters the cylinder as a liquid spray and sucks all the heat away. The main jets, on Rudge 500cc grass bike engines, are massive.
The engines were Rudge 500cc with Rudge patented Radial Four Valve phosphor bronze cylinder heads running methanol through AMAL & Jikov methanol carbs.
In our nitro harley we can't burn as much fuel at higher rpm due to loss of load. I know with your 2 stroke we are talking apples and oranges, but that should not change that charateristic of fuel. Load will play a large part in your tuning. For us we load it up at the hit. Then as we go down track we take fuel away. In our carburated were not allowed to take timing in or out. The injected guys are so they do both. This will increase as your percentage increases. And your ability to use AFR readings will cease at some point. As percentage increases your hydrocarbon fuel decreases and you wont have enough 02 to read. Goodbye carbon dioxide hello nitric acid. I enjoy your adventure. Best of luck with it.
The lack of heat is perplexing. You may be on to something there. You have a large amount of engine metal for such a small engine. I doubt any manufactured engine ever built could withstand what you have put this PIP through! That is a victory in itself, sir.
Nitro at the volume he uses is cooling the engine from the inside out. That is the point of running alcohol or nitro fuels. Lots of manufactured engines take much more abuse and run stronger for longer.
Lack of heat is not all that perplexing when running on methanol.
I believe these recent runs have all been gasoline.
@@upsidedowndog1256 The last video shows him buying alot of nitro and pouring it into the tank before running it.....
@@upsidedowndog1256 Nope.
This man is gonna set a speed record that will never be broken ever again
7:18 This cut right here says it all. The engine starts every time now, no need for footage of trying to get it started. It's a foregone conclusion.
Maybe you need an auto adjusting exhaust like the one I had on my nitro car. Theres a plunger inside that pushes back and opens a second exhaust exit when pressure gets higher
Remember, the ignition advance is the time from spark to max pressure - the angle translates as a time. The smaller the advance the more efficient your combustion. Perhaps a knock sensor would give you a measurement of cylinder pressure to match you advance with fuel mix. You need better instrumentation, you can't 'just try' , you are far beyond that.
How that motor sticks together is something else. Have you had any siezures? Other than when you buy more fuel for the project?
I don't know if it is in anyway related but back in the day when our 50cc 2 strokes bikes where cold they also kinda chocked in higher RPM, after warming the engine up with a few stuttering pulls they would suddenly come alive. This was especially so for the higher modificated engines. So from my very very limited knowledge and view, your theory sounds very plausible :)
Same goes for tuned 4strokes, ime 😁
The reason why they are hard to start is because the petrol condenses against the cylinder wall (because its cold) and won't start. That's what the choke is for, to compensate for the condensation.
On my Husqvarna 250 CR the race engine liked to have the plug heated with a blowtorch before starting.
In regards to the title, I remember hearing about top fuel cars and how they use 2x40amp (if remembered correctly) magnetos for spark so that the spark had some time to dwell because theres so much nitromethane in the cylinder. That and horrendous amounts of timing. Anyway keep at it, absolutely brilliant to watch and an inspiration for anyone who has ever hit a wall and gave up on something they worked so hard to accomplish. .
Something I learned from Marc Salvisberg is that it takes a long time for engine temperatures to stabilize. To begin, he would put the bike on the dyno with a light load at 3k RPM for 20 minutes. Then check engine casting temps around the crank with a non-contact IR thermometer until the numbers stabilized. This usually took around 45 minutes! He didn't pay much attention to bulk coolant temperature, so long as it was in a normal range. I hope this helps and good luck with your development project!
I am not sure that amount of run time is healthy for this super tuned 50cc.
@@Frank-Thoresen It only needs to be done once to establish a baseline. Doing this at the end of a long dyno session minimizes additional run time. Once the target crankcase temp has been established, a number of methods can be employed to achieve it. A very cheap and easy way to do this is by directing two heat lamps at the crankcase and covering the works with a blanket until the target temp is reached. More sophisticated systems employing a thermostat have many advantages, especially if ambient temp is low and/or you're taking long breaks through the session. When doing root cause analysis, it's very important to minimize the number of variables. So I'd be inclined to fab a thermostatically controlled system on a project such as this.
Instead of heating the entire tank of water he can bleed input flow out or mix some of the heat back in and that way reduce the headache of stabilise the entire tank. I guess i am describing the function of an termostat that is adjustable.
Is there a thermostat on this engine at all? That could be a/the heat problem right there.
Let’s all just take a moment on how good he has the piston now as it has had loads of runs and power cycles and still letting the horses lose
Shhhh, don't tempt fate.
Isn't this engine using a more conventional piston design? As opposed to the one for the 100% port engine. You're right though, it's definitely reliable if I can't remember the last time I saw it out XD
Actually, I don't think it was often a problem with the piston, more the cylinder and the rings interfacing with the ports. It's been more reliable since he reduced the size of the ports.
@@chrishartley1210 yeah that was the issue he was having the way the ports was done and the sleeve but since he sorted it the piston has been running strong even with boost alcohol and normal fuel changes and the engine going under different pressures and fuel ratios with all testing I am impressed it’s amazing how fair the engine has come
@@samrowland2816 The piston is a standard OEM part.
When you eventually go efi route, what about a efi system similar to the old “single point injection” on late 80s/early 90s cars. Computer control replicant of the carburettor, no port or crankcase injection. Easier to get reliable quick changes to fuel supply. Also could use the 4x coil supplies onto one plug to ensure the coils can saturate well enough between each ignition?
The only problem with that is rpm. Those cannot really supply enough fuel at high rpm with boost. A constant injection would be probably needed. I think KTM used this method on their newer 2 strokes.
Then the crank need to be lubricated separately
@@Frank-Thoresen you can get a larger supply injector to supply a premix fuel with oil fine im sure
@@Frank-Thoresen you can inject fuel-oil mixture without a problem. The only problem is that none of the injectors on the market can supply this amount of fuel at that rpm.
He discussed why port injection doesn't work well on two strokes in a previous video. The fuel needs to be injected into the transfer port(s) at a specific time during scavenging to get a consistent mixture in the cylinder.
"its not running like It should be". 30hp+ from a 50cc at less than 14000rpm. 30fkn horsepower. Thats insane, ridiculous. Really love the channel.
Maybe limiting the boost pressure with a wastegate could help you figure out what's happening at different pressure levels. In my humble opinion it would have an impact with all that.
Even on established forced air induction systems spark plug gap can make or break a tune. It's crazy how close you are to fine tuning all this from the ground up. All these different parts not made to work together working in harmony in such a small window to work well. just mind blowing!
Cooling to much as you said is probably right. I'm also thinking that maybe some more time area on the exhaust port. Not extra duration but extra area. With the higher pressure now, maybe it needs a larger port? 🤔
Correct me if in wrong. On a 2 stroke without writing an essay the exhaust is shaped the way it is to allow the engine to have a "virtual valve" using the backpressure wave, I always thought this was to keep a hotter richer mix ready for combustion, with a turbo there you don't want that same back pressure as you're effectively "saturating" the chamber with new fuel rich gas. So don't have the need for the wave of pressure the exhaust creates. In other simpler words I think you're onto something with the extra byproduct of burning nitro fuel. Chop off the exhaust at the widest part. Nitro car fuel is notoriously dirty, I used to race the cars. The residue is enormous from unburnt oil. There's poss not enough time for the exhaust port to get rid of all the spent fuel/oil
Hell yeah! Exactly what i needed right now!
I have watched you build this motor and it is already Iconic. I will drive to Bonneville to take see you succeed next year!
Have you looked at running a resistor in line with the ignition input to help filter out some of the electrical noise? Its pretty common on aftermarket ecu etc when it comes to high reving engines. The higher the engine speed the more noise is generated and its like they hit a rev limiter like yours is doing. Superfast Matt had the same issue with high reving engines in his latest TH-cam video.
We've all been there with those 1/2 arsed bits of tube ideas. glad to see you pulled up in time ;)
As much as I’m loving this forced induction concept I’d like to see you go back to your original pip design, no blower, and use the second intake at high rpm. Be much better option to run on the salt flat
Keep up the good work Alex 👍
You're getting there! Glad that a few suggestions were helpful. E.g., Advancing the timing due to nitro and methanol's relatively slow burn rate (compared to gasoline and methanol). Increase the spark energy exponentially to fire-off the difficult to burn nitromethane. Reduce the oil content to between 2 and 4% (the engine's anti-friction bearings don't require any more than that... with a good synthetic (e.g., polyol esters) . Note that higher percentages of nitro require greater and greater ignition advance. Buy the way, forget about trying to vaporize nitro. The very high flow rates (even at stoichiometric A/F-1.7/1), minimize the chances of adding anywhere the amount of heat to initiate vaporization (258 btu/lb); methanol is worse at 472 btu/lb; gasoline is only 135 btu/lb; A high degree of atomization is about the best you can hope for... but the unburned (liquid) nitro helps to cool the cylinder-another irony! Your radio-controlled car required relatively high percentages (14-16%) of lube in the fuel because the connecting rod was fitted with bushings-not anti friction bearings, as is yours. As far as being able to attain a clean throttle-response throughout the rpm-range with 30-40% nitro R/C engines fitted with carburetors... that was almost impossible to achieve without the oil-content cooling off the engine's glow plug element. We were able to reduce that problem by incorporating electronic fuel injection, which incorporated a mapping procedure (time-consuming). You really need to measure the actual A/F of the meth-nitro mix that you're using. Have fun! I HAVE A BOOK FOR YOU. HOW CAN I CONTACT YOU (NOT BY SOCIAL MEDIA)?
What a fantastic video Alex, that was progressive testing. I'm well chuffed for you!
Alex.. had this issue on my rc gas boat engines when heavily modified. It seemed when I ported past a certain exh timing it would do it. The fix according to all my testing on the engine dyno was a larger pipe and stinger. Still hit at the same rpm but did not fall off and hit the misfire window I had battled on water testing in the boat for 2 years. The engine dyno I built and you have seen was allowing me to test much quicker without risking the expensive boats. Food for thought. This was my exact problem. When I built a larger stinger alone it made zero difference. It needed the larger volume pipe!!
Can't wait to see what your cure is. Great work so far bud!!
Interesting thought about the temperature, would pre-heating the fuel be an option to increase vaporization, and would it be safe?
Definitely an option if warmer coolant isn't enough.
@@2STROKESTUFFING
Maybe reduce the coolant flow a bit (like a thermostat does) and let the engine heat up more itself.
Or keep the same flow rate and tape up the radiator so it doesn't sink so much heat out of the coolant. (As I say that, i wonder does it have a radiator, I forgot)
Re the stinger, remember smaller stinger is higher CC temp, so increasing diameter as you have will make the CC cooler and is it worsens the lack of revving condition that may also point to it being a heat issue, or lack of.
@@2STROKESTUFFING My methanol cans are black... the day I left one out in the sun at the race track it got plenty warm... then I filled the bike's tank with warm methanol... The engine took WAY less time to get up to operating temp. There's definitely something to the fuel heating theory.
@@2STROKESTUFFING Sorry to say, you'll never generate enough heat to vaporize nitromethane at fuel rates approaching its stoichiometric A/F (1.7/1). Atomization (breaking up the liquid) is as good as it gets, noting that the unburned fuel cools the combustion chamber.
@@AuMechanic When Alex used to test his engines at winter room temperature, I said the engine needs warming up first but got slated in the comments from viewers. How things have changed!
The fact that there are flames coming out of a tuned expansion chamber are an indicator that the pipe is not doing what it is supposed to do.
That's me not getting back to my jobs for a while... 🤣
It is the exhaust mixing with the intake. change the bore design to have the exhaust port exit right above the intake to prevent them mixing or the boost chase exhaust out. also add fins inside the exhaust pipe like a torque converter to assist in exhaust gasses only exited out one way.
Thanks Ant's
In nitro top fuel engines they use 2 spark plugs per cylinder. I know they are 4 stroke but it might be something to think about.
the thing is a 4 stroke still has more time to combust the mixture, more corectly to build pressure. an arc welder is a good idea tbh
I wondered about this as well. In this case though it is a very small (50cc) piston so the flame path is much shorter than a top fuel car. My 85mm bore methanol race engine ran better with 2 plugs though.
Im sooo exited to see this in a bike in the future! It is so awesome seeing the improvements every episode. Hälsningar från Sverige!
I already know this is gonna be a awesome video
Add a larger stinger and thread a bolt into it to make it an adjustable restriction.
Header lenght from piston to pipe is very important. Set up a removable pipe in-between header and pipe, cut differant sizes & try. A Slippy Pipe would tell you what you need to make, as you already know.
It seems you have all the necessary machines there have you thought about making your own metering rods?
Really need a surface grinder for that
@@nathanbutler8240 that would be the best tool but a belt sander would work fine too most metering rods that I have seen are brass he could easily make a lectron rod with what he has
@@Skaadi89 yeah you can do it with a belt sander, I mean I could do it with a chisel and hammer lol but something like a metering rod that measures the taper in the thousandths shouldn't be done on a belt sander by hand
@@nathanbutler8240 that is very true lol
At these RPMs I would have had my engine seized a 1000 times. Your work is very good. Keep it up!
Woho perfect timing! thank you for the great content :D
"Half arsed" Cant beat honest talk. Loving the show.
Hey man - the inconsistency of the revving (almost) whenever you keep the throttle in one place (ex. 85% throttle), in relation to the fact the it varies very little in behavior no matter how much you play around with mixture, gives me strong associations towards my old very tuned Kreidler moped that acted all funny no matter what we did to it - until we realized it that the aluminum carb manifold had cracked and therefore the mixture kept changing all the time as the carb moved slightly around. I don’t think your engine gets ‘false air’ but to me it surely acts like the mixture isn’t consistent to what you set it to. I really think you should do what ever you can to make sure that it only gets fuel from safe sources in the carb, and fully lock out all alternate fuel channels (as in hoses that aren’t clamped well enough) 😅
And my belief in this theory is strengthened by how compliant your engine is - that cylinder is eating what ever you throw at it, and I amazed I score the plating yet. But the compliance despite your large adjustments, really makes me think you have a false fueling source somewhere that doesn’t deliver consistently. Try to narrow the fuel sources down to as few as possible, and make sure they are fully shut. And then make sure another time around so they are actually shut 😅
Love your proces - hey hey Fra Danmark og bliv med at prøve!
I would love him to brake the engine at different fixed speeds. Would be really helpfull to double check things.
@@MatsNorway You have it Mats! At static rpm you could also verify the A/F with simple instrumentation (old school, but accurate).
I do like the shots of the flame coming out of the exhaust. The internals of the engine seem to be holding up pretty well to the dyno abuse. The piston, cylinder, and rod don't seem to have any issue at all.
The reason you're able to run so much timing is because you don't have high enough compression in that engine and you're having to compensate by adding timing to make more cylinder pressure. You can almost put out a match in high octane nitro like the top fuel dragsters use but you smack it with a hammer it goes boom. Clay Millican has a video on it
Smaller Pulley!! yeah baby!
Hi Nathan. One hundred percent (neat) Nitromethane has an effective octane rating of 40 at its stoichiometric A/F (1.7/1). Therefore, nitro is very prone to detonation (knock) in the engine's combustion chamber. This is why compression ratios are deliberately reduced as the nitro content (%) is increased-an inverse relationship. Also, nitromethane's A/F must be kept on the rich side of stoichiometric to help with cylinder cooling; a lean run is almost always catastrophic to the engine....
Hi!
1.Preheat the fuel at 80oC(you can use heating resistence from the refrigeration system ...or put an cooper pipe for the fuel and circle around the exhaust pipe !)
2.put spark plug(iridium tip) without resistance and replace wire from the sparkplug with cooper multifilar wire
I’ve been watching this because at some point I was working on a DKW two stroke car and saw your first engine project.
I believe that you won’t gonna be able to rev it much past the 15k mark you’re at because it just can’t.
The compressor requires power to rev and the engine just simply can’t get enough fuel inside to generate it.
I think that doesn’t matter how much fuel and air you shove into it it will escape directly to the exhaust, which would explain the explosions on the exhaust.
You might be near the limit on this project.
On a NA engine you would be able to rev easily past that because it wouldn’t lose power to the supercharger.
Compressors also have a ideal work range, in terms of pressure and rpm.
Maybe you need to change it to rev.
Keep on trying I’ll keep watching
In your typical RC car motor they are using a glow plug that acts like a catalytic converter once heated electrically, producing the heat you need to keep firing the nitromethane and continue running the engine.
too many times I have had those break while the engine was already running and as soon as the engine stops, its done for, but up until that point it stays hot, even if the wire inside was broken due to the catalytic conversion, I'm not sure what the plugs are made with inside but guessing platinum or rhodium?
maybe an o2 sensor could help you see what kind of exhaust mix you get and how far off you are from stoichiometric ratio?
Wouldent work the amount of oil in that rc mix would just destroy the o2 sensor in matter of minutes, and the exhaust gasses i think are to low temp for the o2 sensor
@@alexrodensjo348 One chap further up in the comments suggested a diesel Lambda, worth thing about.
twin spark plugs will light the fuel. One thing to remember is the elevation of Bonneville.4000ft above seawater
Iridium spark plugs were created for engines with high dynamic compression in the first place. Iridium is radioactive and is making the gases in the immediate vicinity easier to ionize. That means a spark doesn't have to be as high voltage to jump the gap. In high pressure situations the ion channel of the spark needs much more voltage to ignite and iridium just like thorium in thoriated tungsten electrodes make this much easier because of the ionizing radiation.
It's 3.30 AM and just finished reading most of the 1109 comments posted, and still buzzing. PiP has a lot to answer for!
Not long to wait now hopefully for the next installment of Alex's 2STROKESTUFFING. Warm the water up Alex!
Great video. Keep pushing the envelope bro. You are a true visionary. Boldly going where No one dares to go. Much love from Canada 🇨🇦
I think you need more spark(output power), timing due to the nitro fuel and get them temps up in the engine and you'll be mint!
The Nord 'infomercial' was v. funny actually. Considering the context of the presenter and his channel I feel they'd be rather happy with that effort LOL.
you can try to index the plug so it is not facing the intake .its blowing the spark out
Awsome progress in the last Weeks!
Thank you so much for your dedication!
Really nice cinematography, you are really multi talented.
Why cold starts require more fuel is because the cold cylinder walls condensing the fuel. Gasoline burns the hottest with different temperature sparkplugs. While diesel and alcohol burn cooler. Nitro RC cars use a glow plug like a diesel and top fuel dragster don't even use coolant for a 4 second run before rebuilding the engine and go again. I'm absolutely not an expert in all this heat management but I think it's the right track to try with a hotter engine coolant loop.
Find a MSD 6AL ignition box, that'll amp up the sparke quite a bit and its simple to hook up to anything with a single ignition coil. Or a Boost-a-spark. Both should work
One thing for sure is that if/when this thing lets go it's going to be spectacular.!!
I'm not an expert, but in my opinion the expansion chamber is to long (the header to be specific). So the rolling back pressure wave collides with the following one from the next exhaust 'stroke'.
and having the engine on boost makes for some strong exhaustpulses which disturb the exhaust flow even harder.
it basically chokes on it's own expansion pulses being not synced with the engine at the higher rpm's.
I really appreciate your approach. I am learning sooo much. I used to play at tuning 2 stroke Model aircraft engines and the heat of the glow plug was a key aspect when increasing RPM and fuel volumes. Keep going so I can keep learning... Thank you
I just bought a shirt! You're welcome! Keep on the perseverance my friend!
When I raced 125 rotax karts, I had an engine that only ran between 58 to 60c. Any lower, and it would feel like it's "4stroking". It would sound deep and like it's overfueling. Leaning the main jet helped this, which in turn heated the engine up. Running a less oil in fuel also had the same effect. On cold days, you would just tape up the radiator. When you had days where the engine was running hot, sometimes putting a larger main jet in actually made things worse. If you were running hot with a high main jet, we would have to change the plug and adjust the air mixture screw by 2 or 3 turns. Sometimes it was only open 1/2 turn on really hot days. On cold wet days it could be open 3 1/2 turns.
I had the same thing back in the 70's with my race bikes. Below 60c they were slugs and that was using petrol.
23:36 It's not the oil. That's just normal for methanol. I often see condensation on the intake manifolds of my 4-cycle nitro RC engines when running them on the test stand because of that. Easy way to counter that is to run less coolant flow, or even put it on a thermostat where it doesn't flow coolant at all until it reaches a certain minimum temp.
I think the problem may be the temperature in the combustion chamber. Warmer air ionizes more easily, which is conducive to creating a spark at the spark plug. Leaning the fuel mixture increases the combustion temperature, which affects the ease of igniting the mixture. Another thing that comes to my mind is the problem with the proper charging of the coil at high revs. increasing the ignition advance angle gives it more time to charge, but the ignition may occur much later than you assume. My professor in college mentioned such a parameter as ignition delay caused by the coil charging time. By reducing the distance between the electrodes of the spark plug, the coil must produce less energy to spark. For tuning two-stroke engines, I use wideband lambda sensors from diesel engines (bosch lsu 4.9). I buy them used on scrap so even though they don't work for too long, it's not too expensive and you can check the composition of the mixture.
Good idea re the diesel lambda.
Love the ads that play on your channel. No idea what they are saying. Perfect
Yes I think your right. It very well could be lack of heat. Part of you adjusting plug proves part of this also. Give it the heat!!!!
Rc engines have insane ignition timing, the glow plug advances the timing the higher you push the engine, as the cooldown time is less. It’s not the oil, we had no trouble hitting 17k with the methanol 250cc formula two stroke. It loved fuel, seriously loved it. We just poured more fuel and more timing and the happier it got.
22:00 If it likes 30 degrees it likes 30 degrees. Makes sense to me on the standpoint of fuel burning at a fixed rate and thus needing to be ignited sooner to give peak pressure when the piston is most able to extract power from that pressure.
Your intros to your commercials are the best. Make me laugh every time.
This is so very fascinating, tuning in every week intently following all of his hard-won developments, every up and down.. and up! From the time seeing this 37,000 thousand people have watched this video too. Was wondering if all of them found it as interesting and entertaining as I have. Okay keep up the good work👏
Soooo much progress here….finally stepping away from the Carb is a fresh idea too! Nice work on the main jet mod :)
Fully agree about the heat , it cannot be efficient at that temperature
The phase change of fuel happens in the cases. I think the big volume is causing you a couple problems or at a minimum making things less optimum.
Hey, Keith... you are on the right track! I believe that Alex's crankcase needs to be heated (electrically) until the cylinder temperature comes up to optimum (about 275-300 deg. F, with various percentages of nitromethane/methanol fuel)-then the heater can be turned off or its temperature decreased (to be determined by experiment). However, I have found that if full crankcase-heat is run continuously, the engine's power will drop by 20% or more.
@David Gierke
Yeah that's why there's a percentage of crankcase size to engine cc. The blower is cooling things as well.
The cases could have a coolant chamber around it as well. This would keep it at a consistent temp. But I really believe that if the volume was brought jack to a more normal size, it would behave better & be more consistent.
Just a quick idea an automotive oscilloscope such as the hantek could be used for the diagnosis of your ignition system.
It might be worth it to pick up or borrow a (relatively) cheap oscilloscope with ignition monitoring probes for some more data on your spark voltage waveforms.
interheater, heat the air charge, possibly using coolant (if you have any), as an alternative to running an electric intake heater. If you're running super rich, then you can lean it off a fair bit by heating the air charge, AND bring up the intake enough for stochastic benefits. Intake heating is normal in aviation and ultra high compression diesel. The purpose here would be a bit different, the 2cycle is running at way too high RPM + rich to heat due to how much fuel evap is happening, rich cools engines, so you need to encourage heat at all times, ESPECIALLY during high RPM, unlike aviation or automotive where you need the warmer air to get a stronger start.
I started writing about the advance in timing being needed because of the engine speed being too fast to get enough out of the expansion of igniting vapors but the end of your video kinda summed up my thoughts better than I had them.
The flame out the exhaust was cool
"Taking a carb off an engine" Excellent name for the channel! I understand and your passion, but i'm really curious to see this devil running on EFI.
Loopdeloop the coolant to test, you could also wrap a heat mat around the fuel jug.
And you should look into what some here comments. Split the spark in two, to make sure they fire at full power at the desired rpm
Would really like to hear Kevin Cameron thoughts on all this. I grew up reading his words about two strokes and engine theory.
This better than anything on TV. Love it!
Could you maybe do a workshop tour someday? I would realy like to see more of where the magic happens.
in the past when i build a lot of kart engines like the fr125 rotax max i always tune the cooling system to around 67gr and even run them very lean to get max performance without problems .........................you will get there .
I've seen turbo banshees that make the beans, and they do not use chambers, just 2 straight exhaust primaries to the turbo, no longer relying on typical 2stroke/chamber intake/exhaust pulse/flow behaviors. I would assume this is to address intake and exhaust overlap characteristics under boost.
Always waiting for this "series" to release; top info, top entertainment
i am so invested in this engine and you making this thing a true marvel of engineering, dont get me wrong it is a marvel now but to see this power something preferably down a dragstrip would be just insane. I eagerly await the next video my friend