These videos are amazing. Your matter-of-fact style in these videos is so refreshing and no wonder your business is booming! If you happen to install an Apex Pro Max, it would be great if you could upload that video as well.
If you tighten the long screws first, those two hard to get short screws won't be a problem. Really wish the bracket that holds the legs together was designed for the Pro so that the outer long screws could be used as well instead of reusing the Apex bracket. Also wish the control box was small enough or the frame was wide enough to fit the control box in the middle with all 4 extension rails in place. The control box should've been designed with two motor jacks on the other end of the box to accommodate the other two legs without the cables needing to wrap around, and to have adequate cable length so that extensions are not required if placed in the middle. The length of the switch cable is too long while the motor cables are way too short; some considerations to perfect future models. I will be looking for an alternative motor box, but the cables however are unfortunately not detachable from the motors in order to replace with longer ones so the extensions are necessary but again way too long- stretching passed the other end of the frame at it's longest length (where can I buy shorter extensions Putz, what are these extensions called?) I'm thinking to give more than 2" from legs to side edge of the desktop, in an attempt to lessen the side to side wobble since the frame will be shorter.
@@DestinRugers.S No mods. I put a 6ft by 30inch top, leaving enough room at the back to screw the control box up into the back-right corner behind the frame. I placed it to the back-right bc my power supply bar would be at the back-left, with its cord running down the back of the frame leg, since the outlet and modems are on the left. Modems and main power bar are neatly screwed onto the wall, off the ground and away from sight. Placing the control box and desktop power bar across from each other at the back and screwing the motor touch pad under the front-left of the desktop allowed maximum run of these long cables, so that the cables can be neatly tied as it ran tightly along the frame under the desktop. ..The power bar under my desktop seems not powerful enough for the motors; need to find another. I made my own top with sealed liquor labels on the surface.
Perhaps you've mentioned it here and there, but I would very much appreciate thorough video on the tops (material, longevity, stability?, maintenance) Deskhaus offers.
Why no one makes predrilled holes with threaded inserts in tabletops? After we disassemble it once, the table is (almost) unusable if there are no threaded inserts. Does it cost that much to add those? Inserts for this table are like $5, and you drill the hole anyway.
You can go into particle board several times without any issue. Putting in inserts fixes your contact point. What if you want 6” overhang on your left for a PC mount? Should you wear out the hole you can just extend/collapse the frame .25” and you are good to go
@@Deskhaus which kind of board do you recommend if I move frequently? I almost move to a new address once per year so I guess I'll have to dissemble the board from the base a lot, so I'm a bit worries that holes on a board become unusable after several times of assemble and disassemble
These videos are amazing. Your matter-of-fact style in these videos is so refreshing and no wonder your business is booming! If you happen to install an Apex Pro Max, it would be great if you could upload that video as well.
Where'd you find that flexible drill-bit holder?
If you tighten the long screws first, those two hard to get short screws won't be a problem. Really wish the bracket that holds the legs together was designed for the Pro so that the outer long screws could be used as well instead of reusing the Apex bracket. Also wish the control box was small enough or the frame was wide enough to fit the control box in the middle with all 4 extension rails in place. The control box should've been designed with two motor jacks on the other end of the box to accommodate the other two legs without the cables needing to wrap around, and to have adequate cable length so that extensions are not required if placed in the middle. The length of the switch cable is too long while the motor cables are way too short; some considerations to perfect future models. I will be looking for an alternative motor box, but the cables however are unfortunately not detachable from the motors in order to replace with longer ones so the extensions are necessary but again way too long- stretching passed the other end of the frame at it's longest length (where can I buy shorter extensions Putz, what are these extensions called?) I'm thinking to give more than 2" from legs to side edge of the desktop, in an attempt to lessen the side to side wobble since the frame will be shorter.
Is there any update on your modifications? I'm curious about doing something similar myself!
@@DestinRugers.S No mods. I put a 6ft by 30inch top, leaving enough room at the back to screw the control box up into the back-right corner behind the frame. I placed it to the back-right bc my power supply bar would be at the back-left, with its cord running down the back of the frame leg, since the outlet and modems are on the left. Modems and main power bar are neatly screwed onto the wall, off the ground and away from sight. Placing the control box and desktop power bar across from each other at the back and screwing the motor touch pad under the front-left of the desktop allowed maximum run of these long cables, so that the cables can be neatly tied as it ran tightly along the frame under the desktop. ..The power bar under my desktop seems not powerful enough for the motors; need to find another. I made my own top with sealed liquor labels on the surface.
Does anyone know what size bit was used for the pilot screw?
31:15 - Control box placement
Where are ST5 16 screws are used? There are 4 of them.
I like the salmon-colored boxers... more like that, please!! :)
Perhaps you've mentioned it here and there, but I would very much appreciate thorough video on the tops (material, longevity, stability?, maintenance) Deskhaus offers.
Why no one makes predrilled holes with threaded inserts in tabletops? After we disassemble it once, the table is (almost) unusable if there are no threaded inserts. Does it cost that much to add those? Inserts for this table are like $5, and you drill the hole anyway.
You can go into particle board several times without any issue.
Putting in inserts fixes your contact point. What if you want 6” overhang on your left for a PC mount?
Should you wear out the hole you can just extend/collapse the frame .25” and you are good to go
@@Deskhaus which kind of board do you recommend if I move frequently? I almost move to a new address once per year so I guess I'll have to dissemble the board from the base a lot, so I'm a bit worries that holes on a board become unusable after several times of assemble and disassemble
Damn I got the wrong controller huh
How this desk perform on casters?