I had this trigger and reduced tension hammer spring installed by Coastal Gunworks (Virginia Beach) on my P938. HUGE improvement!!! Short takeup, smooth and crisp release, short reset, and trigger pull reduced by about half. Plus, it looks cool. I'm shooting much tighter groups than before. Thanks for making this great product!
Holy crap! I've been looking for this. My 938 has become my goto EDC carry. Your trigger will finally make it what it should have been and wants to be. A true mini 1911. Thank you. Will be ordering.
Thanks for the help man!! I finally got mine in after watching your video. If you watch any of my gun videos, beware I’m (obviously) a newb, but I wanted to share to help others. Thanks again👍🏼
Put flat triggers on both P938 and P238 and like the results. Much more comfortable than the factory trigger with shorter take-up and reset. Installation was fairly easy. Saw something on another thread that worked to remove the trigger pin - put 1/32" nail punch into chuck on drill press, pulled down on lever, and pin came out easily. Used same approach to reinstall the pin. Also, used a file to take off a little from the end of the trigger bar which attaches to the trigger so it would rotate while holding the return spring in place. Made it much easier to line up the holes in the trigger and trigger bar and insert the pin.
The Crusader Trigger will now come with a replacement factory slip pin. It will replace the roll pin that is in most Sig Sauer P938/P238 pistols. Easier to install that the roll pin it slides right in and is held in by the frame when the trigger is installed.
Do realize this is older video. You might not see it. I saw your podcast with Clover,a day after live ,but saw it & got me thinking about some things. I appreciate you. I got all the stuff from y’all for the LCP II a while back.Will be in touch soon now that I have a better understanding of what y’all are all about over there. I don’t own the pistol in this video but I’m looking. Hate it for y’all about the SAR changes & them copying your homework ect ,but it happens. Take care & if you happen to see this, I wouldn’t mind a heads up if you happen to anticipate a slowdown around the shop. Would guess that might be a good while with the record breaking sales since last election/c19/2023 Vegas trip coming up,but going to get some things boxed up that I’d like you to take a look at. They will be ready when you are. Podcast gave me some ideas. Nothing urgent or anything like that. Just a few little things. Take care & god bless to you and yours. L8r. W.B.Wills II ,CARTHAGE NC
Bought this trigger and had it installed by a gunsmith. Did not just drop in as this says and took modification to install. They even had to call Galloway to work out the problem. $75.00 total because of the extra work.
hold the hammer with your thumb, pull the trigger and try to feel the sear rubbing on the halfcock notch. If you feel that, you need to back off of the trigger screw another 1/4 turn. If the trigger moves too far forward, you can drill the stirrup, put in a pin that limits how far forward the trigger can move.
So I don't love the stiffness of my P938 trigger. I wonder if this option of yours will help me speed up my shots/shorten the pull a bit. Any feedback from you guys would be appreciated. Hoping this is the solution for me!
From his description and from what was shown one could just mod the stock trigger for an over travel screw adjustment. Polymer is lightweight and low friction on contact surfaces a metallic component isn’t always an upgrade.
Our P938 / P238 flat faced short stroke aluminum trigger weighs less than a tenth of an ounce and is precision milled smooth with a slick hard anodized finish, so weight and friction will not be a concern. Please forward to 12:50 in the video if you'd like to see the end result. This is not simply an over travel screw addition. We've improved the staging as well as providing a super short crisp break, short reset, and flat face design. A true upgrade. Check it out.
Good video , like how everything is kept in frame. Question, Have you ever liked drills a hole through the old original trigger, what are they made off , metal ? I have a we the people which I was told its all metal even the grips but now some say the trigger is polymer or composite. Just wondering. Thanks.
Correct me if I am wrong I think you have to use a 1.5 metric allen wrench. Would be nice to include that with the trigger because very few people have one.
The mention of a ten ton press scares me. I do have a press, but the ram doesn't have a guide for a punch. Crushing the aluminum frame would kind of suck. Also, I'm an expert at breaking 1/16th inch punches. I'm seriously good at that. I also noticed that sprung parts can fly into wormholes in space-time and never found again. Finally, you didn't use the press when replacing the trigger pin. Did Sig just go overboard here? I have a Sig P238 on order. If it works out, the trigger is a part I would love to upgrade from polymer. If I wanted polymer, I would buy an LCP. The particular Sig I have on order is the one with the Ti rainbow finish slide (I like it, OK?). Do you have other color options? Aluminum can be colored all sorts of ways when it is anodized. Also, do you have plans for a skeleton style trigger? That would look sweet. Finally, do you provide detailed instructions beyond this video?
This video are the only instructions we provide. Honestly most people send their pistols in for the install due to the need of a press. We are toying with a few new design options with some skeletonizing. Unfortunately the only colors we have are red, black, and silver. However we can Cerakote the trigger any color you want for an up charge. You definitely need a 12 ton shop press as the trigger pin is pressed in at the factory. Sometimes you'll come across one that doesn't need to be pressed out but 99.9% of the time it has to be pressed out. We made a fixture to hold the pin punch.
Thanks for the reply. I just picked up my P238 and put 100 rounds through it. The feel of the trigger is fine in terms of pull weight, slack, etc. But you can definitely tell that it is a plastic part. A curved, smooth radiused trigger in aluminum would be nice. I don't have a holster yet or a spare magazine. I think a bonded gunsmith is the way to go because I am so good at breaking things. Thanks again.
Wow thanks for the video! You really do have to use a press. My local gun shop tried punching the trigger pin out of my P938 and scratched it. Pisses me off. I took it to my buddies motorcycle shop to use his press and it came right out. Thanks Can you tell my what the disconnect does on this gun? It's the little bar with the three holes in it. From what I can tell it stops the slide from moving forward on the frame? Is that correct?
Hey, GP I should be receiving my crusader trigger in the mail today and hope to install it myself. I've watched two separate videos on this process. Both are different in the sense that the trigger pin pushes out on different sides. Is there something I can look for as far as differences to know which "model" I have? After looking closely I noticed one side of the pin is flat and the other side is a bit more round. Thanks in advance!
Look at which hole is bigger on the different sides of the frame, that's the biggest indicator as to which side it will come out. 99.9% of them come out the way we show in the video.
I ended up taking my 938 to my local gunsmith. He was using a press but he told me the punch slipped and caused a minor scratch on the frame. I wasnt happy about that at all but I went upstairs and fired a box through her with the new crusader trigger and forgot all about it haha. Couldn't be more happier with your product GP. The only thing I have to get used to is the reset after each shot. Seems I have to focus more on actually removing my finger to ensure the trigger resets. Will be getting another crusader for my 238 in the near future! Rock on boys
With your statement of the trigger pull feeling about half of the stock 7.5 pounds, do you feel most people need the hammer spring replaced? Would it be approaching too light for safety?
Technically it stays the same. Now with the change in the geometry of the swing and the adjustability of the over travel it will feel like a 2 to 3lb trigger pull.
In the video I thought I heard you say you were going to trim a coil from the spring in the trigger. What purpose does this serve? Also does the trigger come with install instructions? The video is great!
The only reason you would need to cut a coil from the firing pin return spring, which is what he's referencing, is to help prevent light strikes. The trigger itself doesn't come with installation instructions, we just have the video.
At 7:35 or so he says something about cutting a coil off, but I believe he is referencing the trigger return spring (don't know why you mentioned the firing pin return spring).
Rick McNelly he doesn't say cut a coil off, he says it's a coil off. Meaning the trigger bar went in between coils. I mention the firing pin spring because he refers to it later
@@GallowayPrecision Thats what l ended up doing,, my 938 was particularly tight and we destroyed several Starrett 1/16" punches, and put a few marks on the frame. we turned down a punch to around .075" and it still put up a good fight but we won.
+GallowayPrecision Thanks for replying. I know flat faces are kind of popular right now, but they just don't do it for me. Glad to hear you are working on another option. Thanks again.
this is BS I ordered this and tried to install it... you will need a press for sure. That factory pin in on there really good. and mine didn't come with a replacement slip pin... Thanks Galloway
All you had to do was email tech@gallowayprecision.com and I could have sent you the pin. As for pressing the pin out, that's why we say it in the video, 99.9% of the time it has to be pressed out.
yeah tried to press it and the 1/16th punch shattered... nicked the body also... what a nightmare. I have worked on rifles and guns before but never like this... not really on you guys I guess it's sig's fault, however you might want to clarify how hard this is... and don't worry about the pin I am not using this trigger, looking for alternative
Alot of overkill young man I am a Gunsmith for forty years and have drivin 100's of trigger set pins on the Sig p-938 with a bench block hammer and a1/16 punch but then again I don't have to show case my Arbor press without a scratch on it to the viewers but I guess you are entitled to your opinion on that and the method you use just remember that I was a Apprentice under my grandfather who was also a working Gunsmith for over fifty years thanks for the video
Let's start with the fact that you don't know a 12 ton shop press from an arbor press. Next we'll move on to the fact you feel the need to "impress" me with your "vast knowledge" of over 40 years. Generally speaking when people have to impress me, the guy that does this every single day and works hand in hand with Sig armorers and gunsmiths all the time, tend to be overblowing their actual capabilities and end up sending pistols they are working on in to us to fix. I stop counting P938/238 pistols I worked on after I hit the 1,000 mark. These frame holes are oversized on one side and smaller in diameter on the other side, this swedges it in place(otherwise known as a friction fit). That's straight from the armorers class by the way. So we'll keep doing it the way we've always done it, the right way.
Whom ever designed the shape of that trigger needs to rethink this design. Look at all the space lost because of no contour to the trigger. Looks like a very unfriendly feel to the finger.
We've patterned the flat face closely to that of a standard 1911 flat faced trigger. Makes for a much more comfortable trigger pull. We are also working a recessed face design for people with smaller hands, or larger fingers.
I have long fingers, and this trigger helps the ergonomics with such a small pistol, and if you've done the research it's better to get your finger as high up on the trigger as you can on these pistols for better accuracy. with the flat edge you can pull anywhere you want on the trigger. this trigger is hands down the best designed for these sigs. installing one on my p938 I was just looking for a better looking trigger that would let me get higher on it. i did not expect all the advantages that came alonh with it. will not find a better one.
A plastic trigger is not good for smooth trigger pull, mine was so gritty it was affecting sight alignment at the shot break. Some people don’t know the difference.
PS. YES …title “Gunsmith”is thrown around like confetti at a kids birthday party..I can tell you 1 thing .i AM NOT a gunsmith! I tinker and am learning.go slow & trying not to tear up anything..
I had this trigger and reduced tension hammer spring installed by Coastal Gunworks (Virginia Beach) on my P938. HUGE improvement!!! Short takeup, smooth and crisp release, short reset, and trigger pull reduced by about half. Plus, it looks cool. I'm shooting much tighter groups than before. Thanks for making this great product!
I've used Coastal Gunworks as the FFL for shipped items before, great folks! What did they charge for the install?
I had this trigger job done today along with the hammer spring. Wow, what a difference! Feels like a 1911 trigger. Thanks guys. Great meeting you.
Holy crap! I've been looking for this. My 938 has become my goto EDC carry. Your trigger will finally make it what it should have been and wants to be. A true mini 1911. Thank you. Will be ordering.
Just installed mine. Easy job and really makes a difference.
Thanks for the help man!! I finally got mine in after watching your video. If you watch any of my gun videos, beware I’m (obviously) a newb, but I wanted to share to help others. Thanks again👍🏼
Put flat triggers on both P938 and P238 and like the results. Much more comfortable than the factory trigger with shorter take-up and reset. Installation was fairly easy. Saw something on another thread that worked to remove the trigger pin - put 1/32" nail punch into chuck on drill press, pulled down on lever, and pin came out easily. Used same approach to reinstall the pin. Also, used a file to take off a little from the end of the trigger bar which attaches to the trigger so it would rotate while holding the return spring in place. Made it much easier to line up the holes in the trigger and trigger bar and insert the pin.
Nice trigger. I used a 1/32 nail punch. The pin moved out just fine no marks, but I am no gunsmith do what you feel is comfortable.
The Crusader Trigger will now come with a replacement factory slip pin. It will replace the roll pin that is in most Sig Sauer P938/P238 pistols. Easier to install that the roll pin it slides right in and is held in by the frame when the trigger is installed.
Do you guys do any trigger mods for striker fired pistols?
GallowayPrecisio
Do realize this is older video. You might not see it. I saw your podcast with Clover,a day after live ,but saw it & got me thinking about some things. I appreciate you. I got all the stuff from y’all for the LCP II a while back.Will be in touch soon now that I have a better understanding of what y’all are all about over there. I don’t own the pistol in this video but I’m looking. Hate it for y’all about the SAR changes & them copying your homework ect ,but it happens. Take care & if you happen to see this, I wouldn’t mind a heads up if you happen to anticipate a slowdown around the shop. Would guess that might be a good while with the record breaking sales since last election/c19/2023 Vegas trip coming up,but going to get some things boxed up that I’d like you to take a look at. They will be ready when you are. Podcast gave me some ideas. Nothing urgent or anything like that. Just a few little things. Take care & god bless to you and yours.
L8r.
W.B.Wills II ,CARTHAGE NC
Thanks, glad to help if you want to send slides or pistols in for work. Glad you liked the podcast!
Just ordered mine dude! I'm excited to lose my temper trying to get it in :)
Just put my order in. $52 shipped. Not bat at all. As a small mom and pop shop you have my support. Thanks.
Bought this trigger and had it installed by a gunsmith. Did not just drop in as this says and took modification to install. They even had to call Galloway to work out the problem. $75.00 total because of the extra work.
Nothing on the trigger has to be adjusted, it's a tolerance issue with your particular trigger bar.
Just ordered one. Can't wait to give it a try!
Ok fine you've convinced me. Lol just bought one. Thanks for the tutorial!
Darren Brook how do you like it? Is it worth it?
hold the hammer with your thumb, pull the trigger and try to feel the sear rubbing on the halfcock notch. If you feel that, you need to back off of the trigger screw another 1/4 turn. If the trigger moves too far forward, you can drill the stirrup, put in a pin that limits how far forward the trigger can move.
So I don't love the stiffness of my P938 trigger. I wonder if this option of yours will help me speed up my shots/shorten the pull a bit. Any feedback from you guys would be appreciated. Hoping this is the solution for me!
The Crusader will definitely make it short and faster once the over travel screw is adjusted.
From his description and from what was shown one could just mod the stock trigger for an over travel screw adjustment. Polymer is lightweight and low friction on contact surfaces a metallic component isn’t always an upgrade.
Our P938 / P238 flat faced short stroke aluminum trigger weighs less than a tenth of an ounce and is precision milled smooth with a slick hard anodized finish, so weight and friction will not be a concern. Please forward to 12:50 in the video if you'd like to see the end result. This is not simply an over travel screw addition. We've improved the staging as well as providing a super short crisp break, short reset, and flat face design. A true upgrade. Check it out.
Thank you. It is a great piece to shoot.
Good video , like how everything is kept in frame. Question, Have you ever liked drills a hole through the old original trigger, what are they made off , metal ? I have a we the people which I was told its all metal even the grips but now some say the trigger is polymer or composite. Just wondering. Thanks.
They are a polymer trigger stock.
Any chance you would make a scrutinized trigger?
Correct me if I am wrong I think you have to use a 1.5 metric allen wrench. Would be nice to include that with the trigger because very few people have one.
RodThaBod it's a .50 SAE Allen wrench and we sell them on our website in our trigger installation kit, and also in our basic tool kit.
The mention of a ten ton press scares me. I do have a press, but the ram doesn't have a guide for a punch. Crushing the aluminum frame would kind of suck. Also, I'm an expert at breaking 1/16th inch punches. I'm seriously good at that. I also noticed that sprung parts can fly into wormholes in space-time and never found again. Finally, you didn't use the press when replacing the trigger pin. Did Sig just go overboard here? I have a Sig P238 on order. If it works out, the trigger is a part I would love to upgrade from polymer. If I wanted polymer, I would buy an LCP. The particular Sig I have on order is the one with the Ti rainbow finish slide (I like it, OK?). Do you have other color options? Aluminum can be colored all sorts of ways when it is anodized. Also, do you have plans for a skeleton style trigger? That would look sweet. Finally, do you provide detailed instructions beyond this video?
This video are the only instructions we provide. Honestly most people send their pistols in for the install due to the need of a press.
We are toying with a few new design options with some skeletonizing.
Unfortunately the only colors we have are red, black, and silver. However we can Cerakote the trigger any color you want for an up charge.
You definitely need a 12 ton shop press as the trigger pin is pressed in at the factory. Sometimes you'll come across one that doesn't need to be pressed out but 99.9% of the time it has to be pressed out. We made a fixture to hold the pin punch.
Thanks for the reply. I just picked up my P238 and put 100 rounds through it. The feel of the trigger is fine in terms of pull weight, slack, etc. But you can definitely tell that it is a plastic part. A curved, smooth radiused trigger in aluminum would be nice. I don't have a holster yet or a spare magazine. I think a bonded gunsmith is the way to go because I am so good at breaking things. Thanks again.
Wow thanks for the video! You really do have to use a press. My local gun shop tried punching the trigger pin out of my P938 and scratched it. Pisses me off. I took it to my buddies motorcycle shop to use his press and it came right out. Thanks Can you tell my what the disconnect does on this gun? It's the little bar with the three holes in it. From what I can tell it stops the slide from moving forward on the frame? Is that correct?
It already has the best trigger on market
Mike Ogden no, it isn’t. Its plastic and the cheapest part on the gun.
please for us home gunsmith, go a little slower and show what your doing a little closer.
Hope you guys come up with a new trigger for the SA XDe
Ow! (4:34) that must have hurt, but you did a good job of working thru the pain.
will you do a video on the LCP trigger please.
Hey, GP I should be receiving my crusader trigger in the mail today and hope to install it myself. I've watched two separate videos on this process. Both are different in the sense that the trigger pin pushes out on different sides. Is there something I can look for as far as differences to know which "model" I have? After looking closely I noticed one side of the pin is flat and the other side is a bit more round. Thanks in advance!
Look at which hole is bigger on the different sides of the frame, that's the biggest indicator as to which side it will come out. 99.9% of them come out the way we show in the video.
I ended up taking my 938 to my local gunsmith. He was using a press but he told me the punch slipped and caused a minor scratch on the frame. I wasnt happy about that at all but I went upstairs and fired a box through her with the new crusader trigger and forgot all about it haha. Couldn't be more happier with your product GP. The only thing I have to get used to is the reset after each shot. Seems I have to focus more on actually removing my finger to ensure the trigger resets. Will be getting another crusader for my 238 in the near future! Rock on boys
Does the magazine release need to come out? The screw holding it in on mine is so tight Im afraid to try and turn it any harder.
Yes it has to come out, otherwise you can't remove the trigger.
With your statement of the trigger pull feeling about half of the stock 7.5 pounds, do you feel most people need the hammer spring replaced? Would it be approaching too light for safety?
No it won't be to light for carry.
Can you tell me if the stock trigger is made of poly? I want to buy his gun an and someone told me it was a poly trigger.
Yes the stock trigger is polymer.
@@GallowayPrecision The "Legion" model has an aluminum trigger.
What you need to make is a one piece guide rod for the 938, that is the fatal flaw. The current one sometimes just files out and the gun is useless.
put red loctite on it , that is what I did , never have another worry.
What effect does this have on the trigger pull weight? Any reduction?
Technically it stays the same. Now with the change in the geometry of the swing and the adjustability of the over travel it will feel like a 2 to 3lb trigger pull.
In the video I thought I heard you say you were going to trim a coil from the spring in the trigger. What purpose does this serve? Also does the trigger come with install instructions? The video is great!
The only reason you would need to cut a coil from the firing pin return spring, which is what he's referencing, is to help prevent light strikes. The trigger itself doesn't come with installation instructions, we just have the video.
At 7:35 or so he says something about cutting a coil off, but I believe he is referencing the trigger return spring (don't know why you mentioned the firing pin return spring).
Rick McNelly he doesn't say cut a coil off, he says it's a coil off. Meaning the trigger bar went in between coils. I mention the firing pin spring because he refers to it later
Hey. I live in Waynesville, NC and would like to contact you. Any way that could be accomplished?
Dennis De Grasse email tech@gallowayprecision.com
nice video! what size punch did you use on the press to get the pin out? thanks
It's a 1/16ths inch punch.
GallowayPrecision the punch in the press doesn't look to be a standard 1/16 punch, is it a cup punch or a nail set?
It's a punch that we put in the lathe and turned down to the size that we needed.
GallowayPrecision That's not very helpful
@@GallowayPrecision Thats what l ended up doing,, my 938 was particularly tight and we destroyed several Starrett 1/16" punches, and put a few marks on the frame. we turned down a punch to around .075" and it still put up a good fight but we won.
Do you make this in a curved face model?
+JunkfoodZombie We are working on a design with more curve to the face as well.
+GallowayPrecision Thanks for replying. I know flat faces are kind of popular right now, but they just don't do it for me. Glad to hear you are working on another option. Thanks again.
JunkfoodZombie Why would you want curved? It pulls back straighter with a flat trigger
this is BS I ordered this and tried to install it... you will need a press for sure. That factory pin in on there really good. and mine didn't come with a replacement slip pin... Thanks Galloway
All you had to do was email tech@gallowayprecision.com and I could have sent you the pin. As for pressing the pin out, that's why we say it in the video, 99.9% of the time it has to be pressed out.
yeah tried to press it and the 1/16th punch shattered... nicked the body also... what a nightmare. I have worked on rifles and guns before but never like this... not really on you guys I guess it's sig's fault, however you might want to clarify how hard this is... and don't worry about the pin I am not using this trigger, looking for alternative
Why did you remove the safety?
So that the frame lays flat for pressing out the trigger pin.
The black glock mat background sure makes it hard to see but great video.
will it work in my kimber micro 9?
No it will not work with the Kimber Micro 9.
Thank you for the quick feed back.
This kit will fit a 911 380
Yes.
Alot of overkill young man I am a Gunsmith for forty years and have drivin 100's of trigger set pins on the Sig p-938 with a bench block hammer and a1/16 punch but then again I don't have to show case my Arbor press without a scratch on it to the viewers but I guess you are entitled to your opinion on that and the method you use just remember that I was a Apprentice under my grandfather who was also a working Gunsmith for over fifty years thanks for the video
Let's start with the fact that you don't know a 12 ton shop press from an arbor press. Next we'll move on to the fact you feel the need to "impress" me with your "vast knowledge" of over 40 years. Generally speaking when people have to impress me, the guy that does this every single day and works hand in hand with Sig armorers and gunsmiths all the time, tend to be overblowing their actual capabilities and end up sending pistols they are working on in to us to fix. I stop counting P938/238 pistols I worked on after I hit the 1,000 mark. These frame holes are oversized on one side and smaller in diameter on the other side, this swedges it in place(otherwise known as a friction fit). That's straight from the armorers class by the way. So we'll keep doing it the way we've always done it, the right way.
Whom ever designed the shape of that trigger needs to rethink this design.
Look at all the space lost because of no contour to the trigger. Looks like a very unfriendly feel to the finger.
We've patterned the flat face closely to that of a standard 1911 flat faced trigger. Makes for a much more comfortable trigger pull. We are also working a recessed face design for people with smaller hands, or larger fingers.
I have long fingers, and this trigger helps the ergonomics with such a small pistol, and if you've done the research it's better to get your finger as high up on the trigger as you can on these pistols for better accuracy. with the flat edge you can pull anywhere you want on the trigger. this trigger is hands down the best designed for these sigs. installing one on my p938 I was just looking for a better looking trigger that would let me get higher on it. i did not expect all the advantages that came alonh with it. will not find a better one.
Why change out the trigger? The original works just fine.
Because a lot of people want a performance trigger, if you don't that's fine also.
A plastic trigger is not good for smooth trigger pull, mine was so gritty it was affecting sight alignment at the shot break. Some people don’t know the difference.
PS. YES …title “Gunsmith”is thrown around like confetti at a kids birthday party..I can tell you 1 thing .i AM NOT a gunsmith! I tinker and am learning.go slow & trying not to tear up anything..
Working on a black frame on top of a black mat is a joke. It makes me question if you know anything about making a video or working on a weapon.
Where are all your top end high speed install videos then?
Terrible camera and filming skills