the "lip" inside the cylinders isn't from the factory...its from the wear the rings cause after thousands of miles. Since the rings don't go all the way to the top the wear doesn't reach the top of the sleeve hence the lip.
some tips for everyone watching this, always use a straight edge with a feeler gauge on top of the block to check for war-page. reason being if your block is warped your head wont seal properly and could lead to future issues such as oil and combustion leaks. if you do find war-page on your block send it to a machine shop to be re-decked and make sure to always send your head to the machine shop to be resurfaced and always use a new head gasket and head studs. make sure you always use the berry bush to re cross hatch the cylinders regardless what this video says. it will promote oil flow into the piston oil rings. other wise pretty spot on justin. i love your vids man
Finally someone that knows how to talk/write... I'm a car enthusiast, and yes I do own and Honda Civic, but it's mine and I like it, it's fast enough to drive on streets and I know it can handle that speeds, and I can do tons of miles/kms without the engine "blowing in my face", because that's also why Hondas are good, they can run tons of miles without creating a million problems.
just a little info, even though you had to check the main bearings you don't have to take out the center girdle to remove the pistons, that's what the slots in the middle of the girdle are for, you can fit a socket in there easily
How much in labor cost would this be? I would love to take my engine apart like that but I don't trust myself, I know I'll have some random bolts when I'm done.
If you have the desire, you can figure it out. Do some research and when it comes time to take it apart, take pictures and document the deconstruction.
Good machine shops will assemble a short block for $400-$500. I am going to pay reid at kiazanspeed to assemble my 1,000hp short block but the expensive part is when they have to take it apart and do extra crap
Sweet setup bro. I love underdog turbo setups. I ran a 4G63t engine in a 92 Dodge Colt (Mitsu Mirage) with a 20g turbo, 660cc injectors, Evo 8 pistons, 1G rods, ACL Teflon coated bearings, Evo 3 cams, OBX adj cam gears, 3" turbo back exhaust, Apex'i AFC, F5m33 trans with AWD 5th gear and LSD, and more, and made 308HP to the wheels at 12 psi. The car weighed in at 2175 lbs and would spin both front wheels well into 4th gear and bark them going into 5th. Fun, fun car. Lit up a 2012 Corvette GS.
Nice job.. This video was pretty well put together.. Touched on some good points.. My only Criticism is on the filming.. Should have had someone else do the filming for you.. Oh. The lip you feel at the top of the cylinder wall. Is generally carbon build up.. It's not there when the engine is first assembled.. It Build's up over the life of the engine.. It can be found on any engine that run a full cycle.. Just ask the 4.3l v6 I'm building..
The default boost will be whatever lbs your wastegate spring is. If you have a 10psi spring, your boost will be 10psi until you increase it. The turbo itself can produce more boost than you need, so the better question would be ho much can you hold on that size turbo.
The piping from the intake manifold is the Cold side. It goes down to the left into the intercooler and the right side of the intercooler piping is the hotside going to the turbo compressor. In the picture he didn't have a filter on his intake side yet (on the turbo).
This guy makes it look so easy while I’m over here searching how to do it and need to know how to weld and all sorts of knowledge that needs to be learned
there is a guy bragging about how much something costs.. cost does not equal value. Some people just really don't understand that money doesn't always equal better.... just means you have money...
look in my channel its been almost two years since this video was made. the car has made 100s of passes down the 1/4 mile. tens of thousands of street miles and its still running 10.7s in the 1/4 and runs and sounds perfect. stop touching motors? never in fact since this video i have helped more people build perfect performing motors this exact way. just street tuned a buddies tonight and it goes to the dyno wed. built exactly like in this video. and yes i meant PCV i corrected it at the end.
i wish people would understand this engine has bin done properly to an extent, yes this will work if the engine was never over heated or other issues, so no machine work is needed. In my knowlage with engines(im a licenced tech working in a GM dealership) i would suggest with his set up ever year mabey 2 years depending how hard you drive it and how often she see's 6-8 grand to just straight up slip and slide new rod and main bearings in. i have a few friends that do that once a year and it really does work at keeping the oil pressure up and the bottem end good
Great video! Just thought I would bring up something about pulling the rods and pistons out to all the viewers . Make sure you don't scratch your crank when pulling the uncapped rods out, the studs can scratch your crank up if you aren't cautions. They make Connecting Rod Bolt Protectors, although not necessary, they can come in handy in certain situations.
thorough job. so many people dont realize the little things like the oil line and beefier rods have to be done in order for the car to run correctly for years and years. people always bad mouth civics, but for their class civics are the top dog. just watch rally racing and touring races. in the civics are top dog most of the time.
This video should be renamed and made into a series... "How to throw a rod in your Honda over the weekend" and then the following video will be "How to rebuild your motor after turbocharging it" the next weekend...
Hey man, if you're tuning it yourself I'd recommend looking into "Ectune". It's for personal, home-tuners to use on the street. I would however still suggest trying to find a tuner in a different city that could use Neptune/Hondata S300 to properly tune your turbo so you get the full gains. Good luck, take your time and do it right!
One thing not mentioned os the OEM MAP sensor, located (on B-Series) on top of the throttle body needs to be changed, since it doesnt read boost. Most of the time a GM 3 or 4 Bar MAP is used instead.
still going strong, bearings dont wear from power they never actually touch anything there job is to keep a thin film of oil between the moving parts, when bearings wear its from lack of oil and they was allowed to touch and wear. but yeah the car is still going like a champ and is ran hard every day. also a little trick to monitor your bearing health is to cut apart the oil filter at every oil change , when bearings start to go you will find large flakes of them in the filter.
I hate to camplain about your awesome work but, the way you honed your cylinders will cause premature/uneven wear on the cylinder walls and/or pistons. The way you started is correct, but to finish it off, you do a down stroke at slow speed, then reverse the drill and pull out at the same speed. The idea is to make a screw like pattern on the cylinder walls. This allows a good even break/wear in.
Great video man. This is something I have been looking for for a long time. Really well put together. My B16A2 in my EK has now done 170,000 miles and I'm a little concerned it's probably not a good idea to boost it, although I have looked after the motor well and it doesn't use any oil or water. I wish more people in the UK knew series like this
The cylinders in the cylinder block are non removeable, so you take the cylinder head off, drop the oil pan and insert the the piston/rod assembly through the top. Truckers have been doing this with diesel engines for decades ( we call it an inframe, since the engine block stays in the frame )
2 years ago and its still goin strong. and his buddy built a lsvtec turbo, also making roughly the same and hes beat on it non stop for 2 years as well and its still golden. Im not a honda fan boy but it is possible.
The title should read: "How to Obtain a 1:1 Car-Value Depreciation Ratio (Floor-Limited)...." Meaning: For ever thousand $$ you put into that car, you'll decrease the value by the same amount....until it decreases to a certain value (i.e. floor). Then you might see some return... But, I have to say, this was one interesting - and very informative video!! I enjoyed it, dude!!
saw this video a few years when I first got into hondas. still watch it today, and one day hope to do the same when I get a project civic. thanks again for making this video
If you open the hood, on most honda motors there is an engraved portion of the block (or head?) on the bottom left. Look at the left side of your engine, there should be an engraved code.
the lip isn't from the factory, its from the piston rings wearing the cylinder. the rings at TDC sit a few mm below the top of the cylinder, therefore creating the lip. its just the unworn part of the cylinder wall.
eagle rods have ARP 2000 7/16th bolts and are good to around 800 whp. i have never personally had them that high but i have had several set ups that made around 650 whp or 700+ crank with these same eagles and never a issue even shifting at over 9 grand all day lonh
Nice job. Would you tell us how did you do with the brake system? I mean, how do you feed vacuum to the brake booster after raising the pressure in the intake manifold
im doin a d16y8 vitara eagle setup and i was explainin to my dad that well probably want to get a oil catch can for it (he knows old american cars, not hondas lol) he was tellin me that if we only vent the valve cover but pressurize the crankcase it would be easier on the engine under boost since the psi in the intake and combustion chambers would be the same psi as the crankcase, hes idea was less blow by from the pistons cause i also told him how the vitaras fit a little loose. i told him all the turbo builds ive seen ran oil catch cans or like what you did, capped of the output on the IM and put a filter on the black box.
You were talking about blowing the engine because its turbocharged. But just because its got a turbo doesn't mean its a powerful one. It could be a little one pushing only 5psi. Keep the pressure low and you'll be fine.
also if you running stock injectors that car is gonna run lean big time. hope you got a air and fuel ratio gauge to see where its running at. then there is the timing a computer tuning work if not set right that motor will blow up. happen to someone i know. did the same type of build.
HE CLEARLY SAID THIS WAS FOR MORE ADVANCED USERS.. I THINK HE JUST WANTED TO SHOW IT COULD BE DONE IF YOU STOP LOOKING AT YOUR CAR AND GET IT DONE!!! GOOD JOB
With lower powered cars I think a turbo is only really necessary for when you want a big power boost from a single part....that and they sound really nice. I think if your tuning a car to be more balance than full out strait line speed a turbo in a civic is not needed.
PVC is poly vinyl chloride which is type of pipe. PCV is positive crankcase ventilation. I'm somewhat dyslexic also, so don't worry. Just had to clear that up.
you dont need to weld the oil drain connector to the oil pen, you can drill a hole and youse a tool to make a scre in it and just screw the connector to the pen with some sylicon substance applied.
that little lip at the top of the cylinder you said from the factory is actually the wear of the cylinder wall because the rings on the piston only come up so far. great job but with an oversize rebuild you would make probably 10 or 20 more horsepower by sustaining compression and it wouldnt burn oil
Great video. What's the advantage of not swapping the piston sleeves? I guess my next question would be what the advantage of swapping the piston sleeves would be, too. Doesn't honing the existing sleeves lower compression? Also, would going with forged pistons and titanium rods give you any significant performance advantage over the parts you chose with this build?
What turbo kit did you buy, you said fuel pump warburg 255, pistons and eagal rods. I'm pretty confident in my ability to do this project but less confident choosing the parts
oh and yes it can handle 500 hp, my turbo topped out at 450 whp , dyno is in my channel, but as u saw me say that was my goal. 500 is only a turbo upgrade away. but 10.7s at 130+ mph is plenty for me. again proof is in the pudding and the pudding is on my side and in my videos :)
and for your oil return. you could use a step drill{or xmas tree bit} w.e you want to call it and tap the hole you drill out and use a connector to mount it. no welding needed
I am confused as to why there is no intake going into the cold side of the turbo at the end of the vid. It looks like it just has a cold air intake on it and is not even using the turbo. am I mistaken? the bov is mounted on the intake, but it doesnt attatch to the turbo at all making the whole setup useless.
Great video man, pretty nice looking civic:) just two questions: 1. How much did it all cost, in terms of money? 2. Did you only upgrade engine parts, or did you also change transmission, clutch, etc.? Hope you reply, Peace!
In fairness the only specialised tools you need is a piston ring compressor for installing the pistons. and a welder for installing the oil return after that its fairly straight forward. if your know your way around a car at all.
im sorry but you dont know what your talking about, machine work would not help or hurt this set ups potential , due to the fact it was a b18c block the limiting factor is the sleeves and machine work does not help with that, only after market sleeves would. the turbo i went with with this set up is a borgwarner s256 which is only going to make mid to low 400s on pump gas with this motor, this set up ended up making 450 whp before the turbo was maxed out. my current project is at 510 whp :)
I hope not to many people do this, with out making sure your bores are "true" your motor might not last long. Not only that the fact that you decide to run stock injectors with your turbo setup is crazy and the install a 255 on a stock FPR.......should really have installed a fuellab or aeromotive FPR. Plus picking up a set of 450cc dsm injectors would have been another good idea even if it was just a temp thing. Other then that cool stuff.
Cheaper building them yourself if you have the proper tools and the know how and can put together a well planned out motor so I don't doubt that you could. I know my friend has scored really well at swap meets for really nice AFR heads before. He built 355 that cranked out 513rwhp on his camaro. All he bought new was a Dart block, complete Eagle bottom end kit and the cam, the rest he got at a swap meet and fine tuned it. Think he said he only had around $3,000 maybe a couple bucks more.
High mileage engines usually oval bore the sleeves slightly and the piston rings, putting new pistons in usually means there is a slight gap (thousands of an inch) around the ring between the cylinder wall, do you think that is much a problem on Honda's?
always been wondering what is the engine longetivity if let say you daily a 400hp b series? how lang will it last if you boosting drive on the highway mostly??
Nice build Man. How many miles the OEM main bearings got? Used overbore .5mm pistons or standard ones? Any tips about Vitaras rings? Any special break in oil? After watching I'm considering boosting at home and save the shop cost.
You can build it over a weekend but cant get it tuned till Monday(:
Good one xD
Ridelow James truuuuu lol
Unless you know a guy
LOL epic
Havent seen this in a decade..you were a pioneer on here bro.. you should be proud ... i went boost because of you
the "lip" inside the cylinders isn't from the factory...its from the wear the rings cause after thousands of miles. Since the rings don't go all the way to the top the wear doesn't reach the top of the sleeve hence the lip.
Ridge mor commonly called
some tips for everyone watching this, always use a straight edge with a feeler gauge on top of the block to check for war-page. reason being if your block is warped your head wont seal properly and could lead to future issues such as oil and combustion leaks. if you do find war-page on your block send it to a machine shop to be re-decked and make sure to always send your head to the machine shop to be resurfaced and always use a new head gasket and head studs. make sure you always use the berry bush to re cross hatch the cylinders regardless what this video says. it will promote oil flow into the piston oil rings. other wise pretty spot on justin. i love your vids man
did u just slap in ur rods and pistons and bearings? no measurements done to ur bearings?
Finally someone that knows how to talk/write... I'm a car enthusiast, and yes I do own and Honda Civic, but it's mine and I like it, it's fast enough to drive on streets and I know it can handle that speeds, and I can do tons of miles/kms without the engine "blowing in my face", because that's also why Hondas are good, they can run tons of miles without creating a million problems.
What size pistons and rings? did you order standard size rings and piston and did you measure ring gap? Great video!
Stock bore 81mm
just a little info, even though you had to check the main bearings you don't have to take out the center girdle to remove the pistons, that's what the slots in the middle of the girdle are for, you can fit a socket in there easily
How much in labor cost would this be? I would love to take my engine apart like that but I don't trust myself, I know I'll have some random bolts when I'm done.
At the rate mechanics charge... thousands and thousands. Better off buying a new car.
If you have the desire, you can figure it out. Do some research and when it comes time to take it apart, take pictures and document the deconstruction.
just watch a couple of videos and read about it. Honda dohc engines are very easy to work on
jony1495 but they take time
Good machine shops will assemble a short block for $400-$500. I am going to pay reid at kiazanspeed to assemble my 1,000hp short block but the expensive part is when they have to take it apart and do extra crap
Sweet setup bro. I love underdog turbo setups. I ran a 4G63t engine in a 92 Dodge Colt (Mitsu Mirage) with a 20g turbo, 660cc injectors, Evo 8 pistons, 1G rods, ACL Teflon coated bearings, Evo 3 cams, OBX adj cam gears, 3" turbo back exhaust, Apex'i AFC, F5m33 trans with AWD 5th gear and LSD, and more, and made 308HP to the wheels at 12 psi. The car weighed in at 2175 lbs and would spin both front wheels well into 4th gear and bark them going into 5th. Fun, fun car. Lit up a 2012 Corvette GS.
You should do a video on how your clean up the head and block and prep for new headgasket
not nessesary,its too easy
will it work if you turbo it during the week days?
no, because saturdays are for the boys
No stock sleeves don't like weekday builds
dude awesome video .....wtf no one wanted to help hold the camera you really needed ur hands free...you sir are a master thanks again
i know this is an old video but did you gap the piston rings its very important to gap or at least check the gap especially with a turbo application
Nice job.. This video was pretty well put together.. Touched on some good points.. My only
Criticism is on the filming.. Should have had someone else do the filming for you.. Oh. The lip you feel at the top of the cylinder wall. Is generally carbon build up.. It's not there when the engine is first assembled.. It Build's up over the life of the engine.. It can be found on any engine that run a full cycle.. Just ask the 4.3l v6 I'm building..
The default boost will be whatever lbs your wastegate spring is. If you have a 10psi spring, your boost will be 10psi until you increase it. The turbo itself can produce more boost than you need, so the better question would be ho much can you hold on that size turbo.
overnight parts from japan
That's pretty funny lol
D E A D
The piping from the intake manifold is the Cold side. It goes down to the left into the intercooler and the right side of the intercooler piping is the hotside going to the turbo compressor. In the picture he didn't have a filter on his intake side yet (on the turbo).
what about the ecu
This guy makes it look so easy while I’m over here searching how to do it and need to know how to weld and all sorts of knowledge that needs to be learned
there is a guy bragging about how much something costs.. cost does not equal value. Some people just really don't understand that money doesn't always equal better.... just means you have money...
Well you see with cars you get what you pay for, so you can buy your ebay turbo kit and get a piece of shit.
What do you mean $550 for kswap motor mounts arent awesome cuz theyr really a rip of iver priced pieces of metal ? Lol greed
look in my channel its been almost two years since this video was made. the car has made 100s of passes down the 1/4 mile. tens of thousands of street miles and its still running 10.7s in the 1/4 and runs and sounds perfect. stop touching motors? never in fact since this video i have helped more people build perfect performing motors this exact way. just street tuned a buddies tonight and it goes to the dyno wed. built exactly like in this video. and yes i meant PCV i corrected it at the end.
500 horses in a Civic, would you like a civic to go with that horsepower lol, haha
Don't forget that's to the wheels so the car would have to make at least 600hp
JamandTheHolograms FWD cars only lose 15% so its more like about 585BHP
If a civic loses 15% of 600hp it would would rate around 510hp. 600x.15=90 600-90=510
Infamo95Infamo95 good math yo.
Infamo95Infamo95 It doesnt loose 15% from 600hp, 500 they are only 85% of crank power so 100% is 585
i wish people would understand this engine has bin done properly to an extent, yes this will work if the engine was never over heated or other issues, so no machine work is needed.
In my knowlage with engines(im a licenced tech working in a GM dealership) i would suggest with his set up ever year mabey 2 years depending how hard you drive it and how often she see's 6-8 grand to just straight up slip and slide new rod and main bearings in.
i have a few friends that do that once a year and it really does work at keeping the oil pressure up and the bottem end good
A turbo? Who needs that when you've got VTEC YO!!!!
why not put 3 cherries on top of a sundae instead of just 1? sometimes it's better to have more kW output even if it's not by that much
Randall Laureano
Clearly your sarcasm sense is a little low. It was a joooookkkeeee.
Have both yo yo
Great video! Just thought I would bring up something about pulling the rods and pistons out to all the viewers . Make sure you don't scratch your crank when pulling the uncapped rods out, the studs can scratch your crank up if you aren't cautions. They make Connecting Rod Bolt Protectors, although not necessary, they can come in handy in certain situations.
a piece of rubber fuel line works well for that...
If you said it won't last you clearly don't know Hondas lol
thorough job. so many people dont realize the little things like the oil line and beefier rods have to be done in order for the car to run correctly for years and years. people always bad mouth civics, but for their class civics are the top dog. just watch rally racing and touring races. in the civics are top dog most of the time.
This video should be renamed and made into a series... "How to throw a rod in your Honda over the weekend" and then the following video will be "How to rebuild your motor after turbocharging it" the next weekend...
you're a dumbass, he has ran this setup for over a year now with consistent abuse.
Let's all resort to name calling.
Lol
Which is why he tuned the car. And didn't drive in boost until the tune....wait why did you watch this video again???
Considering this video is 2 years old, and the car is STILL going strong, your post is irrelevant.
Hey man, if you're tuning it yourself I'd recommend looking into "Ectune". It's for personal, home-tuners to use on the street. I would however still suggest trying to find a tuner in a different city that could use Neptune/Hondata S300 to properly tune your turbo so you get the full gains.
Good luck, take your time and do it right!
These comments lol facepalm.
so did you just slap the pistons, rings, and rod bearings in without verifying clearances ? I sure hope not.....
One thing not mentioned os the OEM MAP sensor, located (on B-Series) on top of the throttle body needs to be changed, since it doesnt read boost. Most of the time a GM 3 or 4 Bar MAP is used instead.
still going strong, bearings dont wear from power they never actually touch anything there job is to keep a thin film of oil between the moving parts, when bearings wear its from lack of oil and they was allowed to touch and wear. but yeah the car is still going like a champ and is ran hard every day. also a little trick to monitor your bearing health is to cut apart the oil filter at every oil change , when bearings start to go you will find large flakes of them in the filter.
I hate to camplain about your awesome work but, the way you honed your cylinders will cause premature/uneven wear on the cylinder walls and/or pistons. The way you started is correct, but to finish it off, you do a down stroke at slow speed, then reverse the drill and pull out at the same speed. The idea is to make a screw like pattern on the cylinder walls. This allows a good even break/wear in.
Great video man. This is something I have been looking for for a long time. Really well put together. My B16A2 in my EK has now done 170,000 miles and I'm a little concerned it's probably not a good idea to boost it, although I have looked after the motor well and it doesn't use any oil or water. I wish more people in the UK knew series like this
The cylinders in the cylinder block are non removeable, so you take the cylinder head off, drop the oil pan and insert the the piston/rod assembly through the top. Truckers have been doing this with diesel engines for decades ( we call it an inframe, since the engine block stays in the frame )
2 years ago and its still goin strong. and his buddy built a lsvtec turbo, also making roughly the same and hes beat on it non stop for 2 years as well and its still golden. Im not a honda fan boy but it is possible.
The title should read:
"How to Obtain a 1:1 Car-Value Depreciation Ratio (Floor-Limited)...."
Meaning:
For ever thousand $$ you put into that car, you'll decrease the value by the same amount....until it decreases to a certain value (i.e. floor). Then you might see some return...
But, I have to say, this was one interesting - and very informative video!! I enjoyed it, dude!!
Mass produced cars make horrible investments. If you are doing this you are not looking to make money, you are looking to have fun.
Joe11Blue only reason to turbo, fast acceleration=fun. :p
What’s the price build for turbo kid, rods pistons, injectors, tuning software and dyno tune???
saw this video a few years when I first got into hondas. still watch it today, and one day hope to do the same when I get a project civic. thanks again for making this video
If you open the hood, on most honda motors there is an engraved portion of the block (or head?) on the bottom left. Look at the left side of your engine, there should be an engraved code.
the lip isn't from the factory, its from the piston rings wearing the cylinder. the rings at TDC sit a few mm below the top of the cylinder, therefore creating the lip. its just the unworn part of the cylinder wall.
How much money did you spend on this? And the turbo kit....what brand is it? Where did you buy it from?. Im planning to turbo charge my 2007 eclipse.
yeah my current set up is around 510 at the wheels , this set up was only intended to go to around 450 thats why i used the borgwarner s256 turbo
eagle rods have ARP 2000 7/16th bolts and are good to around 800 whp. i have never personally had them that high but i have had several set ups that made around 650 whp or 700+ crank with these same eagles and never a issue even shifting at over 9 grand all day lonh
you forgot to mention to the ones learning that when removing and installing take care not to scratch the walls with the rod bolts.Good vid man!
How exactly did you miss out? B series "vitaras" are available all over, YCP, RSmachines, nippon, etc.
Nice job. Would you tell us how did you do with the brake system? I mean, how do you feed vacuum to the brake booster after raising the pressure in the intake manifold
Beautiful video.. Love how you can tell how late it was getting from the noise of the bugs.. How many of these have you done?
im doin a d16y8 vitara eagle setup and i was explainin to my dad that well probably want to get a oil catch can for it (he knows old american cars, not hondas lol) he was tellin me that if we only vent the valve cover but pressurize the crankcase it would be easier on the engine under boost since the psi in the intake and combustion chambers would be the same psi as the crankcase, hes idea was less blow by from the pistons cause i also told him how the vitaras fit a little loose. i told him all the turbo builds ive seen ran oil catch cans or like what you did, capped of the output on the IM and put a filter on the black box.
oil catch because the system still needs that vacuum and the ECU has counted that air so it must go back in
You were talking about blowing the engine because its turbocharged. But just because its got a turbo doesn't mean its a powerful one. It could be a little one pushing only 5psi. Keep the pressure low and you'll be fine.
also if you running stock injectors that car is gonna run lean big time. hope you got a air and fuel ratio gauge to see where its running at. then there is the timing a computer tuning work if not set right that motor will blow up. happen to someone i know. did the same type of build.
HE CLEARLY SAID THIS WAS FOR MORE ADVANCED USERS.. I THINK HE JUST WANTED TO SHOW IT COULD BE DONE IF YOU STOP LOOKING AT YOUR CAR AND GET IT DONE!!! GOOD JOB
With lower powered cars I think a turbo is only really necessary for when you want a big power boost from a single part....that and they sound really nice. I think if your tuning a car to be more balance than full out strait line speed a turbo in a civic is not needed.
PVC is poly vinyl chloride which is type of pipe. PCV is positive crankcase ventilation. I'm somewhat dyslexic also, so don't worry. Just had to clear that up.
you dont need to weld the oil drain connector to the oil pen, you can drill a hole and youse a tool to make a scre in it and just screw the connector to the pen with some sylicon substance applied.
just started using both videos. I have everything out. going to measure top of block for warping and the cylinder walls before I buy anything
that little lip at the top of the cylinder you said from the factory is actually the wear of the cylinder wall because the rings on the piston only come up so far. great job but with an oversize rebuild you would make probably 10 or 20 more horsepower by sustaining compression and it wouldnt burn oil
do you have a video of everything you cut out? Taking pistons out, assembling new pistons and rings etc...
Cool vid over all, but why not check the piston to clyinder clearance?
Would using a ball hone not be better? To get your cross-hatching marks back...
Great video. What's the advantage of not swapping the piston sleeves? I guess my next question would be what the advantage of swapping the piston sleeves would be, too. Doesn't honing the existing sleeves lower compression? Also, would going with forged pistons and titanium rods give you any significant performance advantage over the parts you chose with this build?
What turbo kit did you buy, you said fuel pump warburg 255, pistons and eagal rods. I'm pretty confident in my ability to do this project but less confident choosing the parts
Really awesome video. I don't even own a honda, but I got sucked into watching it. What's it like to drive a FWD car with that kind of power?
i know this late to ask, but do have to balance the crankshaft with new piston and new rod ?
oh and yes it can handle 500 hp, my turbo topped out at 450 whp , dyno is in my channel, but as u saw me say that was my goal. 500 is only a turbo upgrade away. but 10.7s at 130+ mph is plenty for me. again proof is in the pudding and the pudding is on my side and in my videos :)
but how about ECU and injectors, maybe fuel pump. does those parts need to be replaced?
and for your oil return. you could use a step drill{or xmas tree bit} w.e you want to call it and tap the hole you drill out and use a connector to mount it. no welding needed
I am confused as to why there is no intake going into the cold side of the turbo at the end of the vid. It looks like it just has a cold air intake on it and is not even using the turbo. am I mistaken? the bov is mounted on the intake, but it doesnt attatch to the turbo at all making the whole setup useless.
Great video man, pretty nice looking civic:) just two questions:
1. How much did it all cost, in terms of money?
2. Did you only upgrade engine parts, or did you also change transmission, clutch, etc.?
Hope you reply, Peace!
hey nice video, can u let me know the name brand of the piston and wher i can getem thanks
so this is a b18c engine? I suppose it would be the same procedure for a d16z6 for example?
How much did you spend on the turbo? I going to put turbo on my ls vtec. Let me know thanks.
What year civic is this and what motor does it have in it? There is so much space in the engine bay!
Wouldnt you want to break in the the new pistons/rings to seat before you rip it on the dyno?
In fairness the only specialised tools you need is a piston ring compressor for installing the pistons. and a welder for installing the oil return after that its fairly straight forward. if your know your way around a car at all.
how much boost will the stock ecu/injectors compensate for?
Great video what site did you get your Pistons from and the rods to.
im sorry but you dont know what your talking about, machine work would not help or hurt this set ups potential , due to the fact it was a b18c block the limiting factor is the sleeves and machine work does not help with that, only after market sleeves would. the turbo i went with with this set up is a borgwarner s256 which is only going to make mid to low 400s on pump gas with this motor, this set up ended up making 450 whp before the turbo was maxed out. my current project is at 510 whp :)
could you put the parts and prices in description? like what kind of a turbo kit and ext. thanks
hmm, you never mentioned touching anything to do with your ecu, i thought you had to get a fuel ignition controller?
Would this be the extent of the work required to do this to the f22a in a 92 accord?
Hi nice video appreciate bro but I have 2010 Honda Accord exl 2.4L is it possible to install turbo kit let me know thank you so much
is you jack stand maxed out? it looks like its sidways!!!! look at 6:50
isnt it a must to micro polish ur crank if u put on new rods with new bearings?
remember you could do some work on the head while doing this like new valves and springs and maybe even port match the inlet and outlet!
I hope not to many people do this, with out making sure your bores are "true" your motor might not last long. Not only that the fact that you decide to run stock injectors with your turbo setup is crazy and the install a 255 on a stock FPR.......should really have installed a fuellab or aeromotive FPR. Plus picking up a set of 450cc dsm injectors would have been another good idea even if it was just a temp thing.
Other then that cool stuff.
MechRider89 all these years later and its still running perfect and like a champ
What about balancing the crankshaft? there's no way the piston and rod setup is the same as the stock one...
we are interesting to instal turbo on a b16a1 how much you spend to this turbo kit including every piece of it!
Good job;)!!!!!!
What you recomend for my 2000 honda accord f23.... And where did u get
The turbo???
Cheaper building them yourself if you have the proper tools and the know how and can put together a well planned out motor so I don't doubt that you could. I know my friend has scored really well at swap meets for really nice AFR heads before. He built 355 that cranked out 513rwhp on his camaro. All he bought new was a Dart block, complete Eagle bottom end kit and the cam, the rest he got at a swap meet and fine tuned it. Think he said he only had around $3,000 maybe a couple bucks more.
High mileage engines usually oval bore the sleeves slightly and the piston rings, putting new pistons in usually means there is a slight gap (thousands of an inch) around the ring between the cylinder wall, do you think that is much a problem on Honda's?
always been wondering what is the engine longetivity if let say you daily a 400hp b series? how lang will it last if you boosting drive on the highway mostly??
Nice build Man. How many miles the OEM main bearings got? Used overbore .5mm pistons or standard ones? Any tips about Vitaras rings? Any special break in oil? After watching I'm considering boosting at home and save the shop cost.
Looks like it starts to make power around 5200. Do your shift points work well enough to keep you in the power band? And how much torque did you make?
This was good enough that I watched it a second time, but sat on my couch with a beer instead of mousing over another vid. Nice job!
so, no changes to ECU? pump upgrade was all that needed?
when you do the sleeves is a stroke considered up and down or just one way
Did you do any bearing measurements? I'm a little confused.