This was a very interesting video for me. I bought a Volvo T6 2015.5 model brand new. I think it has the same basic engine plus a supercharger in addition to the turbo. That way it gets more torque and about 300 HP. This is what happened to me. Before the second oil change, the oil quantity light came on due to high oil consumption, i.e. low oil level. I was very surprised when I was told by the Volvo dealer that that was expected. I insisted that a new car should not need extra oil after driving about 1,500 miles. After additional complaining the dealership told me that my car needed a software update. After that update the oil light came on after about 2,000 miles. I think the update was to turn on the light at a lower oil level than the initial default level. After about 30,000 miles, not counting oil changes, I had added about 18 gallons of oil to the car. Eventually the car ran out of warranty. At that point the dealer came to us and told us that they recommend some major engine repairs to correct excessive oil consumption. This was very upsetting. The problem had been documented since the car was new, and then, when the warranty expired, a nearly $10,000 repair was necessary. I complained to Volvo in Sweden and they got Volvo USA involved. Going back and forth for about two weeks, exchanging details about the maintenance history, Volvo agreed to repair the engine, without charge to me, as if it was still under warranty. After the repairs, the oil consumption went away, and I have not had any other major issues with the engine since. However, it was unpleasant for me to deal with the local dealership and their stance. My situation could have been very different. Had they done the repair early on, I would have been a customer for life. Instead they managed to convert me to one time buyer.
Unfortunately, Congress gave dealers too much autonomy from manufacturers at the beginning of the 1970’s. Please don’t vote for any dealer for any elected seat for any party, state or federal. Thank You.
You’re indeed have good ending experience eventhough need to went thru bad CX experience first. I’m a loyal Volvo owner, own XC60 T6 2016 & V40 T4 2015. Now, my XC60 fully maintained by Volvo Service Center since day 1. Current mileage is 80k miles only. Yet, I’ve experienced the same engine oil consumption since Dec 2023. I’d written officialy to the Volvo Sweden but they refused to take responsibility simply because my XC60 out of warranty. Volvo today is no longer value loyal customer & happy to loose customer. Volvo no longer for life.
This is going far back, and it relates to a much earlier Volvo model. I bought a brand new 740 Turbo Sedan, and while the car was still under warranty, I started to have trouble with the sunroof. It would slide back to a point, and go tilted sideways before getting stuck. The dealership service department "greased the rails", N/C. There was no change to the sunroof performance. I brought the car back for another appointment (I was working full time in the city, over 30 miles away) and this time, they "adjusted the cables" on the sunroof, N/C. Once the car went out of warranty, the dealership service department gave me the bad news: "You need a whole new sunroof assembly". Three thousand dollars, plus labor costs.
This is a known issue cause by a bad design of the pistone oil control ring. Volvo has an official repair protocol for that issue, in which engine head is removed as well as bottom end. And pistons are replaced with a new design ones. Very big job. I'm having the same issue, and still trying to avoid it. I'm on 80,000 miles +
My 2006 XC90 had over 285,000 miles on the 2.5 , 5 cyl ran beautiful. No problems . Someone ran Head on into it , saved my wife’s life but the car was totaled . Sadly wanted to reach 500,000 miles on it.
I have an xc90 v8, such a massively underrated vehicle. Everything works on it!. Every switch, every feature!. Fantastic vehicle, i got it for 300 bucks cos he filled it with diesel!. One fuel pump, tank drain. And she is good as gold! 195k miles, burns no oil.
As soon as i read the title I guessed what caused the failure. 2015 and early 2016 were notorious for burning oil due to those inadequate little oil rings. Sometime in 2016 they switched back to a more standard ring and no longer seem to have this problem. I have a 2018 S60 with 90,000+ miles and so far I haven't had to add oil between changes. Also I have heard that Volvo accepted responsibility and replaced the rings on some of the 2015-16 model cars at a discounted rate. Finally I love the content you provide. Keep up the good work!
Do you think they did it on purpose to give the dealers some work to do? Or do you think this happened by accident due to changes (cost reduction) in corporate engineering during the saga of Volvo ownership wandering from Sweden to Detroit to China? Personally I have a hard time trusting them with anything now. It's not the company it used to be. They used to be (for fifty years) a truly unique company. Aren't any more as far as I know.
@@irtnyc This was in no way a cost reduction - it was easily 20% more expensive to change the ring size. It was done by numerous car companies all at the same time to meet more stringent emissions and fuel economy controls in Europe and America. Toyota is the ones to blame for this more than anyone since they designed it, but Honda, Audi, BMW, and Volvo all went to this new design and suffered from the same problems. The companies ultimately extended warranties and covered all of the costs for those experiencing oil consumption issues, but I don't think any issued a full recall for it since some engines didn't have the consumption issue (engines with oil squirters, such as Volvo's Drive-e platform, had the biggest issues... splash oiling engines had much less of an issue).
I’m not a mechanic, but being poor when I was a teenager, I worked on engines continuously because I only had junkers. I still don’t know what causes bearings to spin! Is a lubrication thing, overheat, or something else? I’m now near eighty years old, and I eagerly await each of your videos! Thank you for making them.
No oil. Babbitt is a great non-roller bearing material (when oiled) because it is soft and easily allows oil pockets to form (two smooth surfaces don't allow oil to remain under pressure, paradoxically). But being soft, with no oil supply, they quickly turn sticky, hence the tendency to chunk out and spin when starved.
Oil is lubricating the bearing keeping them suspended in the oil so technically in ideal scenario there should be never contact between crankshaft and rods/block. Also oil makes very important part in heat transfer in engine. So there could be many scenarios actually: 1- oil stop flowing/too low flow/pressure, there will be some oil in bearing but it will quickly run out of it, later with increased friction more and more heat getting produced and it starts to melt together, clearances are way out and it spun/destroys. Can happen because of oil pump failure, not enough oil, wrong clerances on bearing (like worn out already or freshly put in too tight), some blockage in oil passage, dirt coming there, wrong oil, water in oil, just failure of lubrication system. 2- engine is overheated first up to this point that oil is way to thin to maitain oil pressure (probably way over 300F) and lubrication in general, then bearing increase friction, generate heat and goes same story as above. Or just oil gets too hot from ex. racing on track. 3- pushed engine too hard like adding way too much boost so the oil can''t hold bearing above crankshaft (surface too small, to thin oil etc.) and it start to touch, then generate more friction, heat and goes the same.
After watching this, I feel incredible happy over my vintage Volvo (B5244S2 with real oil rings )😝24 years and 620 000 km, still perfect compression and emission levels. The plan is to keep it running for 1.000.000 km, what could posibly go wrong 🤪
Some bureaucrat could tell you that an oil change or some other regular maintenance is prohibited because your car is "too old" and force you to scrap it. Sounds just as absurd to me as it does to you. Sounds like it belongs in The Onion or The Babylon Bee. Also sounds like upcoming EU policy 😮💨
@@233kostaThey figure out a way to force you off the road with those older cars. I see many, but many, cars which were manufactured within the last ten years on the road, with bad exhaust systems and even clogged catalytic converters, which are impossible to miss because of loud compressing sound they make as they pull away from the traffic lights. I bet those are polluting far more than a 25-30 year old, carburetor car in proper tuning.
I'm on day 34 of quitting smoking/tobacco, this channel and 'Curious Cars' channel(highly recommend!) have been on autoplay for basically the entire month and I really think it helps as therapy! the videos are low-stress and funny. Eric, your channel is great and I really have no criticisms. You are entertaining, informative but not over the top with obnoxious click bait strategies (mouth agape thumbnails, movie reference cut-scenes, etc) . This channel actually makes me want to buy an old blown engine (probably a Ford 300) and disassemble it in the garage. Thanks!
Congratulations on day 34 of your goal to stop smoking. It can be rough, but it is worth it. Especially if you were a heavy smoker like I was. My wife & I are now almost to year 34, coming up in July! I still miss it at times, but luckily she doesn't. Chew a lot of gum! Sugar free that is.
Kudos for quitting. I'm on year 52 after quitting, way back in 1972. I tried it as a pre-teen, almost choked to death, threw up like crazy and knew this wasn't for me. Instead of insisting (you'll get used to it, buddies said) I just stopped and never looked back.
The T5 on the car does NOT stand for the number of cylinders or engine size. The T rating is indicating how much horsepower the vehicle has at a minimum. T1 - >100 hp T2 - >125 hp T3 - >150 hp T4 - >175 hp Here we make a jump into 50 unit increments. T5 - >225 hp T6 - >275 hp T8 - >325 hp Note how they skipped the T7. I am sure there's a reason but i don't know it. Generally, anything less than T4 is not marked on the vehicle as it's usually a budget model and nobody cares that you run a T3 or less. As for the engine model. B/D (Bensin / Diesel) (Gasoline / Diesel) 3/4/5/6/8 - Number of cylinders xx - Engine displacement in deciliters (tenths of a liter) rounded down. 19 would be marketed as a 2 liter but is actually "only" 1,998 cubic centimeters or something. 2/4/6/8 - Valves per cylinder T - If given, indicates turbo charging. xx - Engine variant / generation So your B4204T11 is Bensin (Gasoline) 4 cylinders 20 deciliters (2 liters) 4 valves per cylinder Turbo Variant 11 or 11th generation. T5 is given as it has more than 225 hp but less than 275 hp, sitting comfortably in the middle with 242 hp.
had ours for 10+years 170k+ only replaced belts, plugs wires, change the oil... still has original exhaust, pvc, coolant (yeah I know) even had the original 14year old battery until 3 years ago. Its about to be retired to the dog-mobile. wife insists on another Volvo but have to be really picky on the year. Told her they don't make the like they use to and Ford owned them and we know about the shitty Ford quality but she don't care it's 100% emotional decision, she love volvo
Volvo very recently increased the time available for the warranty for oil consumption issues. The 2012-2016 T5s had a new ring design that lead to severe cloggage and thus oil consumption. I just had my pistons & rings replaced on my vehicle at 95k miles on the dime of Volvo. She was drinking 1.2 quarts per 600 miles.
@@dogoonubs997 Great point! I've heard of some people getting "good will" from Volvo if they are close to the 100k and had their car dealer serviced for the time frame up to 100k.
Got a 2015 S60 with this same engine with 125k and it runs great. Changing the oil every 3k miles with the best oil you can get is a game changer for these early 4 cyl motors. Changing oil a lot with synthetic oil is the best thing you can do to reduce carbon deposits. Oh, and use the highest octane gas you can get is recommended as well😀
lots of people here in Europe change their oil only every 20 - 25k km's (13 - 15 k miles) and in combination of this oilburning engine because of emissions related tiny little oilrings makes this happen.
I've got the 2015 XC60 with ~120k on it. I change the oil every 3k +/- with synthetic. The engine sounds great. It lives outside year round in Chicago, and the only issue was the damn ever present roof rail drain clog issue. It ended up soaking my driver's side foot well. Meh, it's a glorified/posh German Shepherd and tool carrier. I just make sure the engine is clean on the inside and keep the filters clean. And, yes, I use the 93 octane as well.
As a retired mechanical engineer this is by far the best engineered engine I've seen torn down. Simple and reliable and except for the cams easy to service. I think this engine would last forever with good maintenance. Details of machining are very nice. I should probably buy one of these used with lot's of miles just to see how long I could make it last. The only inherent problems are the direct injection and the low tension oil rings. The oil rings can be solved with oil changes at no more than 5K. Companies are now marketing PFI add ons between the throttle body and the intake with the software to manage it. Could try that or clean intake ports every 30K.
Did you read my mind/search history?? I literally just searched for Volvo teardowns the day before and found none (was thinking of buying one and wanted to have a look at the internals). Well... Now there is a Volvo teardown. Keep up the great work!
What year were you looking at? If it's 2017 or earlier make sure those piston rings have been replaced. Their early 2.0s on the SPA chassis had horrible oil consumption problems.
Define irony: engines created for efficiency, under the guise that they are better for the environment, can easily end up burning oil and spew out the byproduct. These low tension low friction rings were a problem for so many in this era. Subaru Toyota Volvo, who else?
Basically everyone really. The early four banger Duratecs also drank oil like crazy. Wasn’t uncommon to see one chew through a quart every 500 miles because the oil control rings had become completely ineffective and oil was just going right by the rings. Audi increased their tolerances for “acceptable oil consumption” on the TFSI engines as people kept coming in with insane oil consumption and they didn’t want to fix it. Just changed the spec and told people “working as intended”. A quart every 600 miles was their new spec.
Volvo was one of the very first to the "4 cylinder all the things" party and they did a pretty good job. Granted, being boost-nuts since the early 80s gave them a lot of experience.
@@I_Do_Cars I enjoyed many 5 cylinders through the years and just picked up a T6 manifold and turbo because I suspected it was a near bolt-up to an M52. Appears I'm right (engine mount, not withstanding).
@@I_Do_Cars agreed. I'm still driving a '99V70 5 pot 2.4 N/A with 421,500 original kms here in Canada, and I also have a 2.3 T5 S70 with a manual trans. Love my 5 pot engines and was disappointed when all Volvos got 4 cylinder engines. I won't buy a modern 4-cyl Volvo but I will keep the old P80 platforms running as long as I possibly can.
@@NicholasPellow I also had a 960 with the B6304, which I did earlier cams on. I then realized why Volvo switched to milder cams for moar torque-- but I was young and dumb and 7000 RPM inline 6 sounds were appealing.
@@corystansbury I love the 7/900 series to this day. My Dad had 2 760s in the 80s and 90s, but both were 2.3 redblocks w/ turbo+ intercoolers, I never got to experience the very reliable B6304
I leased for 3 years, a 2015 V60 4 cyl turbo for my wife. It blew grey/black smoke out the exhaust when she drove up the hill when the car was new. No dipstick to read the oil level. I was adding 1 qt of oil every 1000-1500 miles when the add oil light came on. When I took the car to the dealer for every service, I complained that there was a oil burning/usage problem. They documented my complaint, but they did nothing. I didn't care, as the car was leased, and I was turning in the car at the end of the lease. Nice performing engine, but an oil burner/user from beginning to end of lease.
Those rings were updated after the first model year(s) of the VEA engine. They had decided to use the same design as the previous 5cyl, turns out they weren’t so good. They also had an issue in the first years with spark plugs, the manufacture was faulty and the ceramic fell off. I am close to a Volvo dealer, to echo the words of the master tech, they are incredibly reliable engines.
I've seen stacked rod bearings a time or three. I even had one set cause a legitimate intermittent rod knock. The rod bearing spins and one half lodges under the other, then becomes free again randomly. Definitely a show & tell moment in the shop that day!
Thank you for posting this video of a Volvo xc60 T5 with a 2.0. I own a 2017 xc60 T6 AWD purchased new and now have 102,554 miles. It’s in the Volvo shop for regular maintenance-ie new plugs, new coils, new water pump and thermostat, new catalytic converter, new engine mounts, oil change, new turbo, new supercharger gaskets and I believe new coolant hoses totaling $7,884.32. Runs like a charm and I change the oil every 3,500 miles and use CERATEC for Volvo engines. Granted service is expensive but overall reliability is flawless and the xc60 is like an adult go kart. I love it. Thank you again. I was very curious how this motor was built! A++++
I think the big issue with this is multiple things adding up. This year, the oil control rings were a faulty design that clogged usually around 70,000 miles and wouldn't properly scrape oil off the cylinder wall and cause excessive oil consumption. As others have mentioned, there was an extended warranty offered for these issues to replace the pistons with rings. I had that done on my 2015 S60 just a few weeks ago. With no dipstick, there is no easy way to check the oil reliably. Plus, to be honest, most people these days don't check the oil, don't know how, and wouldn't know what they are looking at anyway. 2nd issue is extended oil change intervals. It's 10,000 miles on these engines, which is too much to begin with, but when they start consuming oil, it makes it that much worse. Next is the oil spec these need. For a 0W-20 energy saving oil, it has to have a specific VCCRBS0-2AE/SAE spec oil that isn't easily available in the US. They recommend the Castrol Edge Professional, but you can't buy that off the shelf and it's not sold online. There is a Liquid Moly you can get that meets that cert. They also have a 5W-30 recommendation if you can't get the OW-20, but it has to meet an ACEA A5/B5 cert. Not many US oils meet that spec. You have to get the Penzoil Platinum, or Castrol Edge full synthetics. If you are like most people and just go to an oil change place, 99% positive most of those do not meet that spec, so you're going to have issues even worse with oil consumption. The engines after these 3 years or so had the new piston and oil ring design and weren't so prone to this issue. All in all though, Volvo makes some good engines and they are pretty darn reliable.
Good stuff. I would add that the ACEA A3B4 spec is actually superior to the A5/B5 except for gas mileage, and you can find it fairly easily, in the 5W30....in case you get desperate. I order the RB spec Liquid Moly myself.
I recommend buying oil from FCP Euro. Lifetime warranty and free brakes, free oil after 2nd times! FCP Euro will take your used oil and collection info from your used oil so you will see all information as metal shaving/coolant/gas containment.
Informative video. I have a '95 850T. 296K miles,runs like a scalded cat,as they say. Unopened engine,original:turbo,transmisson,catalytic converter. Uses a quart of synthetic oil every 1500 miles. My own maintenance. NO rust anywhere. Maryland.
Have just rebuilt a D4204T5 engine from a UK XC60 2014. 2L, 97k, 4cylinder, diesel, with a crack between 2 + 3 , bought a replacement engine, cracked liner!, relined and rebuilt, very nice engine and car. Biggest problem is burning oil due to a poor design on the oil control ring that has been addressed in 2016 onwards revisions. Love the channel, great to watch the tear downs and the patter!
Given the age of the car, I was expecting broken piston rings since this a major problem on the Volvo 4 bangers.years 2014 - 16. I totally agree that this was a case of neglect - insufficient oil quantity, cheap or improper oil. THIS IS WHY I HATE ELECTRONIC OIL QUANTITY DETECTION SYSTEMS, YOU NEED A PROPER OIL DIPSTICK!
I'm still hoping for some truly ancient engines. Flathead Ford V8 comes to mind. Model T engine. A Willys Go-Devil would be fascinating, especially if it was the F-head!
My dad told me that during WWII, because no new cars were being built, nor new parts made, him and his friends used to replace worn rod bearings with strips of leather from old boots (or belts). They could nurse a few more miles out of old engines that way. Pans were easy to remove back in those days because they were designed for owners to work on, unlike now.
yep i have heard of people being able to use leather to take up some clearance and you could also use brass shim sheet too to take up some wear as dad used to use shim sheets to build up worn bearings, he also used to use a big branch of a mango tree as a crane to hoist the engine out
@@the_cazador7011 During WWII, most all metals were hard to come by. They were building B29s, Tanks, and P51s by the thousands, so any metal was scarce. Bullets have brass casings too. In 1943 all pennies but a few were made from steel because of the copper shortage.
In the Eastern Bloc countries in times of supply shortages of communism era, wooden pistons made of hard wood like oak or walnut wood were used instead of normal ones. They were used mostly in motorcycle engines. Of course, their durability was short, but they allowed to drive a hundred or two hundreds of kilometers. Not a bad solution when the alternative was not to drive at all 😆 and replacing the piston in a relatively simple two-stroke engine was easy, cheap and quick.
My good friend just had one of these t5 in his shop and it was turbo / supercharged for a total of 324 hp. S90 2019 As he lowered the car his jack broke and smashed that oil pan you see . Replacement one factory kit was like 700$. Belt kit required 100 to 120 k .
As a huge fan of the Volvo 100, 200, 700, 900 series and P80 (800, V,S,XC/70) platforms, I am thrilled to see you tear down ANY Volvo engine, frankly. Thanks for getting one in finally, I've been looking forward to this video for over 2 years. Growing up my Mom had a 144 & a 244, my Dad owned a P1800 (which I learned to drive manual on as a 16 yr old), a 242GLT, and two 760 turbos over the years (LOTS of RedBlocks over the years, would love to see you tear one of those down someday). I've owned an 850 turbo, a V70 T5, and now currently a 99 V70 N/A, a 98 S70 T5M, and an '86 244DL that I'm planning a V8 swap into. Love the Volvos, they have saved my life at least 3 times through their solid handling in potential accident situations, and their amazing front and side impact protections going back to the 70s. Seats so comfortable you can drive all day in and still get out feeling refreshed at your destination. In an age where most cars have the design sensibility and form that looks like it was squeezed out of the back end of a dog, I'll take a boxy Volvo any day.
I share your enthusiasm for Volvo. Truly, a carmaker that came from logic and value and pride in engineering, more than fads or gimmicks. Rock solid, at least until the company reorganized.
@user-zh9zz5ru6r Yeah, they're something of a cult car-- mostly I mean the older ones-- but there's a subculture of Volvo fanatics. And for good reason.
@@bretfisher7286 my Mom's 244 was more of a 'get my high school buddies and me to the Rush concerts on the worst day of winter' kind of car, but I experienced real joy and felt lucky to cruise about in my Dad's 242, and his P1800 manual and later a euro-spec 760 turbo with a manual transmission. I would love to have a collection of just those three cars today...
@user-zh9zz5ru6r The P-1800 is such a fascinating and beautiful bit of work. Mom had a 242 GT that I helped maintain for her. I don't know why they termed it a GT. It was slow! But very fun.. and a beautiful car.
Have a 98 V70 122k 5spd manual with the non tutbo 5 cyl .. previous 95 850 wagon hit 280k at least since i kept in touch with owner. All time favorite volvo engine
Reminds me of something Groucho Marx is alleged to have said: "From the moment I picked up your book to the moment I put it down I was convulsed with laughter. Some day I intend to read it."
20:55 It was originaly intended to be a oil dip stick but it wasn't possible to fit for various reasons but service required to get a pipe for sucking out oil. Some markets seemed started to get more serious requirments on how to handle the oil such as no spill and sucking out the oil was a proposal to solve that. Turned out it was too difficult/slow to use so in the long run the service guys developed another method using classic oil plug.
EDIT- I guess I called it! I bet this failure is due to the infamous oil consumption issue. The problem is due to the oil control rings due to simply being too thin, and thus not having enough force pushing out on the cylinder walls to properly scrape off the oil. The engine then burns oil, carbon builds up on the piston and more importantly the rings from that, and the problem snowballs. The only real fix is new, updated pistons and rings. Yes there is a TSB and even an extended warranty for this issue, but only up to 100k. Source- My dad has an s60 with the same engine, and we have been dealing with the same issue. An engine flush every oil change helps clean off the carbon on the oil ring and staves off the oil consumption for a while. P.S- Eric, the belt interval is 150k. My dad's aforementioned s60 is just about to come up on it.
The oil rings 20:54 stick in ring land then don't keep cyl wall film minimized. The other rings stick too. Low tension rings and long oil intervals have been bad news across the industry. DI is a factor as it is more sooty and that impacts oil via ring wipe down. The port + DI cleans intake valves but the DI soot problem is another reason several added back port injection.
150k seems insane. Sounds like they are trying to compete with timing chains. That and not many will keep these cars past a certain mileage point anyway. I just did the 2nd timing belt on our Acura 3.5L V6. 178kmiles and the engine still runs like new.
@@jimmyaber5920 Yep. The thin low tension rings help with fuel economy, but then you get issues like this. Not worth it in my opinion- that's why I drive an old truck.
Belt change for my 2.5T engine - 2005 XC70 - is 120km (75k miles). I've had the vehicle 14 years and, with 350k km on the clock, it continues to run like a well-oiled sowing machine with no oil top ups between 10k km services - I do check. Plenty of other high cost items, though; Volvo air conditioning compressors off scrappers do not come cheap, nor tailgate glass! However, previous I had a 2.4L V40 whose belt let go @
I would certainly like to see that as well. So, is it 3,2 i6 engine crap? Does this particular engine have bad super thin oil control rings? Or is it okay? What can be done to prevent this, or at least prolong the life of this engine? Generally speaking, I think the long life oils are some of the culprit of many otherwise good engines breaking down. I've seen many Audi and VW engines inside, also the more expensive ones, broken, due to way too long oil intervals and long life oil making sludge all over the internals, for example blocking oil galleries and other parts, for example turbos. Personally, I always change engine oil every 5000 km, no matter what, and always the oil filter as well. Never had an engine that burns oil. In fact never had an engine break down. Knock on wood. Cheers.
@@monzarace I have 2 Volvo P3s with this 3.0L straight 6 turbo, and they consume very little oil....1 L / 6000 miles. I have magnetic oil pan plugs, and I'll find < 5 tiny sparkles. Even with conscientious maintenance, I think the life of the engine depends on how hard you drive it. Race car engines need rebuilding every 30-50K for a reason.
I had a 2016 Volvo V60 T5, there was an issue with the T5 engines in 2015 and 2016, they had defective rings in them. It caused huge amounts of oil burn, in the range of around 2 quarts every 1,000 miles for mine. One of the rings eventually failed on cylinder 3, after finding out how much a replacement engine cost we ended up just scrapping the car. I miss that car, it drove so good!
I have a S60 T5 with an inline 5 and it is a massive oil burner. Talking 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles, sometimes even after 700. Now that I’ve seen the rings on this engine, I can confidently say this is the culprit. If you own a P3 gen S60, XC60, XC70, or anything with an I4, I5, or I6, you have to check the oil. Weekly. They will absolutely go catastrophic very quickly. Thank you for the video!! If you can find one, I’d really like to see a 2012-17 inline 5 teardown!
Dan that's too bad. I own old Audi 5 cylinder engines and fortunately they don't burn (unless I'm over 90 MPH for a long time) or leak any oil. But that was before these narrow tolerances were a thing.
I have a 2018 V90 T5 with a 2.0L direct injection Model B4204T23. Don’t have a lot of millage but changed the oil frequently more than what OEM recommends. Zero oil burn. The only complain i have it does not have oil level stick all electronic on the dash. I head this stick is optional to be installed at the dealer
So cool to see my 2015 engine tear down. I change my oil every 3k +/- a couple hunnert. I wasn't aware of the oil burning issue. I'll check it more often to see what's what. Good to know. Thanks.
I do 150k a year to drive from europe to Russia so i have the old 5 cillinder 2.4d (D5) and have tuned up to 300hp but love more the diesel torque! Sadly now i broke my auxiliary belt and destroy the timing belt. Luckily i was in Belgium and could do all the repairs myself!
I bet, what was causing it, was the owner being just _too cheap for a regular workshop-assisted _*_oil-change_*_ in combination with _*_constant manual re-fuelling_*_ of oil_ .. Hence the clogging. Likely even a regular towing-vehicle for heavy loads (horse box-trailers, boats, caravans) or other trailers. Since this clocking is typical for such vehicle-usable (cold-start heavy-duty) from the first revolution, always driving with heavy load while also most often driving with low revs for the engine to have enough torque (Diesel). Each of the aforementioned conditions alone are getting serious over time and eventually causing lasting harm, while Volvo-engines are pretty stubborn about assisted dying and are usually notoriously forgiving when running even any longer p[r]etty non-lubricated anyway, but _both together _*_in combination_*_ is always and without exception a recipe for disaster_ and a clean kill for virtually every make of engine. Eventually it hits Volvos too .. Such a shame! Though even in the past, most engines died by the hands of their owners anyway (fundamental and wilful neglect, indifference, lack of interest et cetera), and *not* of mechanical failures or because of nefariously engineering by ill-fated managerial-driven cheapo-politics (which is the No #1 cause of engine-deaths theses days). It's a shame though. I'd argue in favour of mandatory tech-courses of minimal mechanical courses.
I’m a loyal Volvo owner, own XC60 T6 2016 & V40 T4 2015. My XC60 fully maintained by Volvo Service Center since day 1. Current mileage is 80k miles only. Now, I’ve experienced the same engine oil consumption problem since Dec 2023. I’d written officialy to the Volvo Sweden but they refused to take responsibility simply because my XC60 out of warranty. Volvo today is no longer value loyal customer & happy to loose customer. Volvo no longer for life. Buy at Your Own Risk !
T5 never really stood for 5cyl turbo, it was the engine designation for the 5th iteration of the 2.3 Turbocharged engine that Volvo put in the T-5R (B5234T5) and subsequent “sport” models were called T5s. There are plenty of other models with a 5cyl turbo setup but they shouldn’t be confused with the T5
The T5 existed before the T5-R. Back then it was initially the "5 cylinder turbo", the T4 was a 4 cylinder and the T6 was a 6 cylinder. After the P2 generation of cars the T designation went to signify the amount of power the engine produced and that it was a gasoline engine. The Diesels had a Dx numbering.
@@Google_Is_Evilno it didn’t, it was simply called 850 Turbo, and had a B5234T engine. The 96 T-5R was the first to denote T5 in the model and had a B5234T5, and the later 97 Rs had the B5234T4. The ending T always designated a turbo engine and the following was the iteration of the engine. The success of the T-5R later lead to the T5 designation as it became popular.
Oil rings were indeed a common problem on these engines in the first generation. A facelift made the rings a lot bigger. Belt interval in the netherlands is every 120.000km (75.000 miles)
That engine was rode hard and put away wet, total lack of maintenance by the owner. My sister had a Volvo, her husband stayed on top of the maintenance, they never had an issue until it was hit hard in the rear. Had around 250,000 miles on it and insurance totaled it.
I've owned a T5 S90 since new in 2018. Nothing but 91 or better octane and 3-4k full synthetic Castrol edge oil changes. I drive the car not pamper it either, tires on the front are every year along with pads. That one has 96k city miles (Philly traffic) . I got another 2018 model year last year at the auction with only 27k on it now! Love the car!
I think Volvo Germany is just one of their branch...anyway do you ever heard of the Volvo B8444S engine ? This 4.4 L V8 Volvo engine (over 640hp) was built by Yamaha in Japan under Volvo design and specifications and was mated to a six speed Aisin Seiki AWTF80-SC...one of my dream engine.
1:39 better half had a Volvo 960 wagon ages ago that overheated once and apparently lifted the head off the deck over the middle cylinder. Had good compression on the ends, awful compression on the next inboard, and the middle cylinder wouldn't even move the needle on the gauge.
Finally, thanks Eric!! We as a family have had several Volvos, mostly the older gen engines in 5 or 6 cyl trim, but now have two of the 2.0L current gen, with DE and the turbo (XC40), or the turbo/super (XC90). This engine called for the ACEA A5/B5 spec oil originally, but Volvo then took it to another level with their own "RB" spec, which is HARD to find! Castrol Edge "Professional" OW20 meets it but often is only found at the Volvo dealer; I managed to find a new Liquid Moly product also meeting the requirement. This oil is also supposed to help with the DE issue. Thanks, I will watch this one many times, and feel free to do one on the older Volvo engines as well, they are bulletproof, impossible to wear out with good maintenance performed.
Volvo used to be such well made machines! One of my first cars was an 82’ sedan. What a tank. Sold it when it was 20 years old and almost 300k. Ran like a clock
@@volvo24091 i saw an article a decade ago by jeremy clarkson saying that volvo had went bankrupt and were merely a name on a collection of other manufacturers parts. he loved his xc90 though. perhaps there's a manufacturer in germany putting a volvo stamp on the custom parts by request.
@@volvo24091 Hella/Bosch/Continental in Germany manufacture lots of parts for all cars and stamped in the part there's usually car make and country the part is manufactured in.
Had Volvo since 1970 just three of them. Treat them well and they'll run for ever. The last one had 333000 miles on it and wen on for another five years.... Never had the block down only thing changed was the distributer, and alternator. It did need a new frel pump every 100000 miles.... Did 34 to the gallon when I got it was still doing that when Isold it. At the end it was using all of a mug full of oil between changes at 5000 miles. Always amused by the engine number which had a load of zeros with. 007 at the end. They are a bit expensive to buy and you will put a little more fuel on them but visits to the repair shop are few and far between.
Interestingly, ALL the current Volvo engines (with the exception of a few 3 cyl 1.5L) are 2.0L 4 cylinder, both diesel and gasoline. The different states of tune (T3, T4 etc) are set by the degree of additional features. So the top end "T8" is touted as being a replacement for a V8, having turbocharger, supercharger AND external electric boost, providing 455hp in total.
Have to say this was a very well made and *interesting* video. It moves on quickly enough for those who (like me) have a relatively short attention span and still retains the interest level without falling into the trap of dumbing everything down too much. All clearly shown and explained - clear, well-lit camera angles. Well done - I'll doubtless be dropping in again some time soon.
Yes! Volvo!! I have two real T5s, and they have been a great engine series for a long time; but when you first started the video, I knew exactly where this was going. Like a number of manufacturers in the early teens, Volvo put those crappy oil control rings on the pistons. My hundred thousand mile 2015 V60 is, about to get new pistons and rings because of exactly this. Volvo was supposed to fix all these for us, but local dealers can make it extremely difficult. Great video, though; thank you so much, Eric!
When did your engine start burning oil? I have 50k miles on my 2016 s60 but haven’t had the issue prop up yet… I doubt I will qualify for the warranty when it pops up as I’m over 8 years now, but sadly no where close to 100k miles :(
As a Volvo tech, I would love to see you disassemble one of the 5-cylinder diesel engines. These are great engines that mechanically almost never fail, unless you get one of the early 2011-2012 2.0L 5-cylinders, which can suffer from cylinder sleeve cracks. But aside from that, they are flawless engines.
@@dgdave2673 theyre so bad they sell with a lifetime OWNER TRANSFERRABLE warranty. the maker has that little confidence in it, they actually say 'i promise we'll fix it'
The first few years of these engine with the low resistance rings had issues cause of the small holes in the scrapper rings. They will clog up at some point and cause oil consumption which will lead to burnt valves or something like this. normal servicing wont save it. Volvo switch to a upgraded pistons and rings that were more traditional i guess you would say. I wouldn't buy one of the first 3 years unless volvo did the upgrade or a smoking deal on the car.
My father drove subsequently Volvo's : 244, 264, Bertone, and finally the 764 diesel. All of them did around 450-500.000kms when traded in. That'sor experience with Volvo.
As iconic as their 5 and 6-cylinder powerplants are, I think Volvo made the right long term move by switching to all 4-cylinder powerplants. Sharing the same or very similar motor between all models simplifies manufacturing and reduces cost. Ideally, with just one powerplant to worry about, you'd think it'd be a decent motor as they could devote a lot of R&D budget to a single engine, rather than spreading it between 2 or 3 different engines.
Aurobay actually makes two different engines for Volvo Cars. A three cylinder and a four cylinder, similarly to how their previous architecture (the Volvo Modular Engine) had 4, 5 and 6 cylinder variants. Before that they used the Redblock, which only came as a four cylinder (They also used the PRV V6 and a VW diesel known as the D24, but those were not manufactured by Volvo).
Eric, you asked at 15:35 how the base circle of the cam lobes could have oil varnish, wouldn't the lifter bucket wipe that off? The lifter buckets are solid, no hydraulics in this valve train, so there has to be clearance between the cam base circle and bucket when the valve is closed. My Triumph motorcycle has shims under the buckets to adjust this clearance. I guess there must be a maintenance task in this engine to check the clearances, remove camshafts and exchange buckets to adjust them.
There isn't. Effectively the wear is nil since valves are small and springs weak. Weak springs used with good valves and seats results in no need for adjustment. Solid buckets have been around 25 yrs on Volvo and longer on others and adjustment never became an issue. The dirty base circle is due to oil occlusion sticking tappet to valve stem. If that doesn't happen on bucket tappet system you have a lot more rattle and some valve tip wear from cam lobe profile rise slapping tappet into valve tip. Old Volvo 4 cyl Red motors had a rubber mushroom seal on top of valve to assure tappet sticks to valve. When that ages and cracks you could change valve shim and tighten them to 1/4 of spec lash and still have rattle. Replace mushrooms all is good again with .016-.018 inch lash
@@jimmyaber5920 I assume that the advent of lead free fuel and the necessity to use hardened valve seats is what made it possible to build engines with no means to adjust the valve gaps after manufacture. I read about one engine (Mitsubishi I think) that had 57 varieties of buckets to enable correct setting of valve gaps during manufacture.
Do ya think there's a VOLVO factory engine builder thinking "You animal. I gave you a fine engine that could have lasted a long time and you burn it up in only 100k miles."
Obviously the physical fitting of the VV timing solenoids will only go back on 1 way... but isn't it funny the the green plated one goes on the silver side and the silver plated one goes on the green side! My hat's off to you for all your expertise. No doubt gained by hundreds of hours of engine tear down and rebuilts. For me this kind of video is better than Netflix. :) :) thanks!
I have the same engine in my P3 V60, the serial number is 0005350 so one of the very very first ones. The previous owner had the pistons updated early, probably before 50k. Engine has 202k on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Really good, simple, robust engine. I will probably do a basic carbon cleaning when the weather warms up. I wonder how hard it would be to make an aftermarket dipstick for it.
The reason why this one went bad is because people don't do there freaking oil change on time. Should be every 4K with any Modern turbo engine. The T5 is a great engine they go well over 200K of you take care of them. I never own one but my friend has a 2020 Xc 60 for a few years now over 100k runs perfectly. My Hyundai sonata 2.0T has 180k but new engine from Hyundai at 150K. So yeah guys just do your oil changes on time. I do everything myself so I know all my cars are well taking care of.
Yeah, the Volvo I4, I5 and I6 cam carrier cover you loosen about 2 turns in the approximate order you do and then crack it loose. If you rotate the cams slightly out of time they’ll find a spot where there’s the least amount of residual tension from the springs/ buckets on the lobes. The timing belt tensioner had that Allen keyhole in it for adjusting preload tension. as you tighten it. Simply loosen that and the belt goes slack for removal. Cam gears come off after timing components and just before cam carrier cover comes off.
Modern Volvos don't have dipsticks any more, at least my 2016 V60 doesn't. It just has a sensor that lights up the dash monitor saying "oil low add x amount". Frustrating, especially since in true Volvo fashion it likes to burn oil. EDIT: Hah, I knew when the video started this engine would have an oil-related issue.
Thanks for the video Eric. I have rebuilt the block and heads on dozens of volvo 5 cyl and 6 cyl engines. I own a xc60 2015.5 with this engine. It burns oil excessively. no dip stick. I am glad this volvo tells me when its a quart low or it would have run dry. The dealer would fix it if it had under 100k but we had 112k when the recall hit. It has over 125k now. I plan on tearing into it soon. This video helped me know what to expect being a little different than the 5 cyl. Also loved your Jaguar 5.0 SC video. Done that job as well.
The XC60 has never seen Swedish shores. They are built in Belgium. The only Swedish built Volvo in the US is the XC90. The rest is from Belgium and the Netherlands.
I am really glad I watched this video. I have a 2019 S60 T6 and I am pretty stringent on the oil changes, and this is exactly why!! I am also definitely going to be looking for the hidden oil tube. I can't stand not being able to check the oil the old way. The sensor is good for oil level I guess but I want to see and smell the oil. Also I will definitely have to plan to have the intake valves cleaned at some point, those looked real crusty at 101k miles (probably worse due to the oil consumption but still). I am sure the supercharger will make that an even bigger expense and/or pain in the ass.
I own a 2011 C70 D4 5cyl 2ltr 177bhp and a 2017 XC60 D5 2.4ltr 5 pot 220bhp. Both cars from new. Looks to me like either water ingress or more likely the oil has not been changed or topped up as per service schedule. Very rare for Volvo engines to fail here in the UK, where we have bought more diesels.
I have a Volve V40 2l Turbo, from 2004, 320.000 km's, just had the first minor repairs (headgasket replacement), but with a little maintenance it still runs like a top...
The 2.0 liter was new/next gen in 2015 and you nailed it on the problem; Volvo fixed that issue almost immediately, probably over engineering the solution. I have that engine in a 2019 and it uses not even a drop of oil. I do miss the dipstick! It is a great engine now. They also have their own oil spec now for that engine, somewhat hard to find but the dealer has it: Castrol Edge PROFESSIONAL 0W20, meeting the "rb" spec, and you can also find Liquid Moly and Motul that meet that RB Volvo spec as well.
Shouldn't have any problems with my 2006 volvo D5, i check the oil regularly (and its always full) Not the smoothest engine but sounds great for a diesel and its quite powerful too!
'03 Forester was using 1 qt/1000 miles or less. Pulled the pistons. Rings looked very similar to what you have here. Oil feed holes behind the oil control rings were plugged full with brown carbon! Drill and a little bit to clean them out! Haven't driven it far enough to tell if my ring job was successful. Can't see that'll hurt anything!
So I have a 2015 xc70 with this engine. Great information. I would like to buy one of those pistons to put on my desk to remind me to keep after the oil😢
This was a very interesting video for me. I bought a Volvo T6 2015.5 model brand new. I think it has the same basic engine plus a supercharger in addition to the turbo. That way it gets more torque and about 300 HP.
This is what happened to me. Before the second oil change, the oil quantity light came on due to high oil consumption, i.e. low oil level. I was very surprised when I was told by the Volvo dealer that that was expected. I insisted that a new car should not need extra oil after driving about 1,500 miles. After additional complaining the dealership told me that my car needed a software update. After that update the oil light came on after about 2,000 miles. I think the update was to turn on the light at a lower oil level than the initial default level.
After about 30,000 miles, not counting oil changes, I had added about 18 gallons of oil to the car. Eventually the car ran out of warranty. At that point the dealer came to us and told us that they recommend some major engine repairs to correct excessive oil consumption. This was very upsetting. The problem had been documented since the car was new, and then, when the warranty expired, a nearly $10,000 repair was necessary.
I complained to Volvo in Sweden and they got Volvo USA involved. Going back and forth for about two weeks, exchanging details about the maintenance history, Volvo agreed to repair the engine, without charge to me, as if it was still under warranty.
After the repairs, the oil consumption went away, and I have not had any other major issues with the engine since. However, it was unpleasant for me to deal with the local dealership and their stance. My situation could have been very different. Had they done the repair early on, I would have been a customer for life. Instead they managed to convert me to one time buyer.
Unfortunately, Congress gave dealers too much autonomy from manufacturers at the beginning of the 1970’s. Please don’t vote for any dealer for any elected seat for any party, state or federal. Thank You.
You’re indeed have good ending experience eventhough need to went thru bad CX experience first. I’m a loyal Volvo owner, own XC60 T6 2016 & V40 T4 2015. Now, my XC60 fully maintained by Volvo Service Center since day 1. Current mileage is 80k miles only. Yet, I’ve experienced the same engine oil consumption since Dec 2023. I’d written officialy to the Volvo Sweden but they refused to take responsibility simply because my XC60 out of warranty. Volvo today is no longer value loyal customer & happy to loose customer. Volvo no longer for life.
This is going far back, and it relates to a much earlier Volvo model. I bought a brand new 740 Turbo Sedan, and while the car was still under warranty, I started to have trouble with the sunroof. It would slide back to a point, and go tilted sideways before getting stuck. The dealership service department "greased the rails", N/C. There was no change to the sunroof performance. I brought the car back for another appointment (I was working full time in the city, over 30 miles away) and this time, they "adjusted the cables" on the sunroof, N/C. Once the car went out of warranty, the dealership service department gave me the bad news: "You need a whole new sunroof assembly". Three thousand dollars, plus labor costs.
This is a known issue cause by a bad design of the pistone oil control ring. Volvo has an official repair protocol for that issue, in which engine head is removed as well as bottom end. And pistons are replaced with a new design ones. Very big job. I'm having the same issue, and still trying to avoid it. I'm on 80,000 miles +
Was this dealership in Asheville?
T- belts due @150k, 15 yr Volvo tech here love the content!
Just replace the engine at 100K
That's an impressive interval but why not chain?
As a master tech for Volvo, what caused this engine to fail at only 100k on the ticker?
@@catinthehat5140 not sure, they did chains on the inline 6 cylinder but all other engines for Volvo have been belts.
@@deplorablelibertarian most likely the known oil consumption, ran too low on oil for to long got hot and spun bearings?
I have gotten pretty proficient at disassembling motors thanks to this channel. Now I need him to show me how to reassemble them all!
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
@@KarlHamiltonJust with less screws 😂
@@ekukojs3783and weight reduction 😅
🤣Wanna see reassembly? Watch the video in reverse (rewind)! 🤭
My 2006 XC90 had over 285,000 miles on the 2.5 , 5 cyl ran beautiful. No problems . Someone ran Head on into it , saved my wife’s life but the car was totaled . Sadly wanted to reach 500,000 miles on it.
2)^voʻĺvoʻ
I have an xc90 v8, such a massively underrated vehicle. Everything works on it!. Every switch, every feature!. Fantastic vehicle, i got it for 300 bucks cos he filled it with diesel!. One fuel pump, tank drain. And she is good as gold! 195k miles, burns no oil.
Those suv are like a tank 😂... Be careful with... Those Yamaha engine cost alot to fix 🫨🥴🥴
you stole it 👍
As soon as i read the title I guessed what caused the failure. 2015 and early 2016 were notorious for burning oil due to those inadequate little oil rings. Sometime in 2016 they switched back to a more standard ring and no longer seem to have this problem. I have a 2018 S60 with 90,000+ miles and so far I haven't had to add oil between changes. Also I have heard that Volvo accepted responsibility and replaced the rings on some of the 2015-16 model cars at a discounted rate.
Finally I love the content you provide. Keep up the good work!
My 2019 XC90 T8 also doesn't burn oil at all. 126,000 miles on her now... going in for a suspected ERAD transmission issue tomorrow 😕
Do you think they did it on purpose to give the dealers some work to do? Or do you think this happened by accident due to changes (cost reduction) in corporate engineering during the saga of Volvo ownership wandering from Sweden to Detroit to China?
Personally I have a hard time trusting them with anything now. It's not the company it used to be. They used to be (for fifty years) a truly unique company. Aren't any more as far as I know.
@@irtnyc This was in no way a cost reduction - it was easily 20% more expensive to change the ring size. It was done by numerous car companies all at the same time to meet more stringent emissions and fuel economy controls in Europe and America.
Toyota is the ones to blame for this more than anyone since they designed it, but Honda, Audi, BMW, and Volvo all went to this new design and suffered from the same problems.
The companies ultimately extended warranties and covered all of the costs for those experiencing oil consumption issues, but I don't think any issued a full recall for it since some engines didn't have the consumption issue (engines with oil squirters, such as Volvo's Drive-e platform, had the biggest issues... splash oiling engines had much less of an issue).
I’m not a mechanic, but being poor when I was a teenager, I worked on engines continuously because I only had junkers. I still don’t know what causes bearings to spin! Is a lubrication thing, overheat, or something else? I’m now near eighty years old, and I eagerly await each of your videos! Thank you for making them.
bearing is to reduce friction, when there's a lack of oil it heats up and gains friction, eventually one side grabs on and gets spun around the other.
No oil. Babbitt is a great non-roller bearing material (when oiled) because it is soft and easily allows oil pockets to form (two smooth surfaces don't allow oil to remain under pressure, paradoxically). But being soft, with no oil supply, they quickly turn sticky, hence the tendency to chunk out and spin when starved.
@@ratdude747 Good info
Oil is lubricating the bearing keeping them suspended in the oil so technically in ideal scenario there should be never contact between crankshaft and rods/block. Also oil makes very important part in heat transfer in engine. So there could be many scenarios actually:
1- oil stop flowing/too low flow/pressure, there will be some oil in bearing but it will quickly run out of it, later with increased friction more and more heat getting produced and it starts to melt together, clearances are way out and it spun/destroys. Can happen because of oil pump failure, not enough oil, wrong clerances on bearing (like worn out already or freshly put in too tight), some blockage in oil passage, dirt coming there, wrong oil, water in oil, just failure of lubrication system.
2- engine is overheated first up to this point that oil is way to thin to maitain oil pressure (probably way over 300F) and lubrication in general, then bearing increase friction, generate heat and goes same story as above. Or just oil gets too hot from ex. racing on track.
3- pushed engine too hard like adding way too much boost so the oil can''t hold bearing above crankshaft (surface too small, to thin oil etc.) and it start to touch, then generate more friction, heat and goes the same.
@@oluskloc thank you, after all these years and rebuilding many (junker) engines, it’s nice to know the several things that can do it!
After watching this, I feel incredible happy over my vintage Volvo (B5244S2 with real oil rings )😝24 years and 620 000 km, still perfect compression and emission levels. The plan is to keep it running for 1.000.000 km, what could posibly go wrong 🤪
Some bureaucrat could tell you that an oil change or some other regular maintenance is prohibited because your car is "too old" and force you to scrap it.
Sounds just as absurd to me as it does to you. Sounds like it belongs in The Onion or The Babylon Bee. Also sounds like upcoming EU policy 😮💨
Yes, Volvo for life!
@@233kostaThey figure out a way to force you off the road with those older cars. I see many, but many, cars which were manufactured within the last ten years on the road, with bad exhaust systems and even clogged catalytic converters, which are impossible to miss because of loud compressing sound they make as they pull away from the traffic lights. I bet those are polluting far more than a 25-30 year old, carburetor car in proper tuning.
You might be dead before your engine reaches 1,000,000 hahahaha
I have same engine 220.000 km Volvo s60 2001 so what go wrong wih me??? hahaha
@@rob-s6x 640 000 km and still going fine
I'm on day 34 of quitting smoking/tobacco, this channel and 'Curious Cars' channel(highly recommend!) have been on autoplay for basically the entire month and I really think it helps as therapy! the videos are low-stress and funny.
Eric, your channel is great and I really have no criticisms. You are entertaining, informative but not over the top with obnoxious click bait strategies (mouth agape thumbnails, movie reference cut-scenes, etc) . This channel actually makes me want to buy an old blown engine (probably a Ford 300) and disassemble it in the garage.
Thanks!
good on you for quitting smoking! keep going and don't give up! :)
Congratulations on day 34 of your goal to stop smoking. It can be rough, but it is worth it. Especially if you were a heavy smoker like I was. My wife & I are now almost to year 34, coming up in July! I still miss it at times, but luckily she doesn't. Chew a lot of gum! Sugar free that is.
If you can stop for a day - you can STOP forever. Well done. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA
Good work..I quit…get info from cancer society many tools can help
Kudos for quitting.
I'm on year 52 after quitting, way back in 1972. I tried it as a pre-teen, almost choked to death, threw up like crazy and knew this wasn't for me. Instead of insisting (you'll get used to it, buddies said) I just stopped and never looked back.
The T5 on the car does NOT stand for the number of cylinders or engine size.
The T rating is indicating how much horsepower the vehicle has at a minimum.
T1 - >100 hp
T2 - >125 hp
T3 - >150 hp
T4 - >175 hp
Here we make a jump into 50 unit increments.
T5 - >225 hp
T6 - >275 hp
T8 - >325 hp
Note how they skipped the T7. I am sure there's a reason but i don't know it.
Generally, anything less than T4 is not marked on the vehicle as it's usually a budget model and nobody cares that you run a T3 or less.
As for the engine model.
B/D (Bensin / Diesel) (Gasoline / Diesel)
3/4/5/6/8 - Number of cylinders
xx - Engine displacement in deciliters (tenths of a liter) rounded down. 19 would be marketed as a 2 liter but is actually "only" 1,998 cubic centimeters or something.
2/4/6/8 - Valves per cylinder
T - If given, indicates turbo charging.
xx - Engine variant / generation
So your B4204T11 is
Bensin (Gasoline)
4 cylinders
20 deciliters (2 liters)
4 valves per cylinder
Turbo
Variant 11 or 11th generation.
T5 is given as it has more than 225 hp but less than 275 hp, sitting comfortably in the middle with 242 hp.
If you ever want to do another Volvo engine teardown I’d love to see one of the 2.5L 5 cylinder turbos
had on in the 850r... in the 90's that was awesome.
I ve one. Big reliable motor to me.
I have one, 2009.
300.000 km now, still feels like new honestly. Turbo, and everything is still original.
had ours for 10+years 170k+ only replaced belts, plugs wires, change the oil... still has original exhaust, pvc, coolant (yeah I know) even had the original 14year old battery until 3 years ago. Its about to be retired to the dog-mobile. wife insists on another Volvo but have to be really picky on the year. Told her they don't make the like they use to and Ford owned them and we know about the shitty Ford quality but she don't care it's 100% emotional decision, she love volvo
Volvo very recently increased the time available for the warranty for oil consumption issues. The 2012-2016 T5s had a new ring design that lead to severe cloggage and thus oil consumption.
I just had my pistons & rings replaced on my vehicle at 95k miles on the dime of Volvo. She was drinking 1.2 quarts per 600 miles.
Unfortunately the warranty is only extended to 100K- conveniently just before this engine failed.
@@dogoonubs997 Great point! I've heard of some people getting "good will" from Volvo if they are close to the 100k and had their car dealer serviced for the time frame up to 100k.
I sure hope this poor person got some goodwill coverage- an engine failure like this just out of warranty really does suck.
@@scottbauer2814
Volvo take a page out a Toyota's 2AZ book?
Was your engine as smooth afterwards? I just had this done also and it seems so much more "buzzy" now.
Got a 2015 S60 with this same engine with 125k and it runs great. Changing the oil every 3k miles with the best oil you can get is a game changer for these early 4 cyl motors. Changing oil a lot with synthetic oil is the best thing you can do to reduce carbon deposits. Oh, and use the highest octane gas you can get is recommended as well😀
lots of people here in Europe change their oil only every 20 - 25k km's (13 - 15 k miles) and in combination of this oilburning engine because of emissions related tiny little oilrings makes this happen.
@mipmipmipmipmip lol
I've got the 2015 XC60 with ~120k on it. I change the oil every 3k +/- with synthetic. The engine sounds great. It lives outside year round in Chicago, and the only issue was the damn ever present roof rail drain clog issue. It ended up soaking my driver's side foot well. Meh, it's a glorified/posh German Shepherd and tool carrier.
I just make sure the engine is clean on the inside and keep the filters clean. And, yes, I use the 93 octane as well.
As a retired mechanical engineer this is by far the best engineered engine I've seen torn down. Simple and reliable and except for the cams easy to service. I think this engine would last forever with good maintenance. Details of machining are very nice. I should probably buy one of these used with lot's of miles just to see how long I could make it last. The only inherent problems are the direct injection and the low tension oil rings. The oil rings can be solved with oil changes at no more than 5K. Companies are now marketing PFI add ons between the throttle body and the intake with the software to manage it. Could try that or clean intake ports every 30K.
I'm a mechanical engineer also. I don't share your optimism. Want to buy my wife's '16 XC60 T6?
Engine may last forever but Volvo interiors are horrible. The upholstery cracks, tears and falls apart and plastic parts deteriorate from UV exposure.
@@Dave-uu6ol I'd take it free to help with my experiment!.
When do you see this starting?
The interior on my 2008 v60 is in great shape and feels pretty solid.
Did you read my mind/search history??
I literally just searched for Volvo teardowns the day before and found none (was thinking of buying one and wanted to have a look at the internals).
Well... Now there is a Volvo teardown. Keep up the great work!
What year were you looking at? If it's 2017 or earlier make sure those piston rings have been replaced. Their early 2.0s on the SPA chassis had horrible oil consumption problems.
Define irony: engines created for efficiency, under the guise that they are better for the environment, can easily end up burning oil and spew out the byproduct. These low tension low friction rings were a problem for so many in this era. Subaru Toyota Volvo, who else?
Basically everyone really. The early four banger Duratecs also drank oil like crazy. Wasn’t uncommon to see one chew through a quart every 500 miles because the oil control rings had become completely ineffective and oil was just going right by the rings. Audi increased their tolerances for “acceptable oil consumption” on the TFSI engines as people kept coming in with insane oil consumption and they didn’t want to fix it. Just changed the spec and told people “working as intended”. A quart every 600 miles was their new spec.
GM ecotec 2.4 is another big oil consumer.
@@TPowell12and the 2.2
Audi
@@trainslife5638 all VAGs
Volvo was one of the very first to the "4 cylinder all the things" party and they did a pretty good job. Granted, being boost-nuts since the early 80s gave them a lot of experience.
Pretty unfortunate to me. The 3.2 was so reliable, and the old v8 was excellent too. I’d consider a v90 r design if it didn’t have a 4cyl
@@I_Do_Cars I enjoyed many 5 cylinders through the years and just picked up a T6 manifold and turbo because I suspected it was a near bolt-up to an M52. Appears I'm right (engine mount, not withstanding).
@@I_Do_Cars agreed. I'm still driving a '99V70 5 pot 2.4 N/A with 421,500 original kms here in Canada, and I also have a 2.3 T5 S70 with a manual trans. Love my 5 pot engines and was disappointed when all Volvos got 4 cylinder engines. I won't buy a modern 4-cyl Volvo but I will keep the old P80 platforms running as long as I possibly can.
@@NicholasPellow I also had a 960 with the B6304, which I did earlier cams on. I then realized why Volvo switched to milder cams for moar torque-- but I was young and dumb and 7000 RPM inline 6 sounds were appealing.
@@corystansbury I love the 7/900 series to this day. My Dad had 2 760s in the 80s and 90s, but both were 2.3 redblocks w/ turbo+ intercoolers, I never got to experience the very reliable B6304
I leased for 3 years, a 2015 V60 4 cyl turbo for my wife. It blew grey/black smoke out the exhaust when she drove up the hill when the car was new. No dipstick to read the oil level. I was adding 1 qt of oil every 1000-1500 miles when the add oil light came on. When I took the car to the dealer for every service, I complained that there was a oil burning/usage problem. They documented my complaint, but they did nothing. I didn't care, as the car was leased, and I was turning in the car at the end of the lease. Nice performing engine, but an oil burner/user from beginning to end of lease.
Those rings were updated after the first model year(s) of the VEA engine. They had decided to use the same design as the previous 5cyl, turns out they weren’t so good. They also had an issue in the first years with spark plugs, the manufacture was faulty and the ceramic fell off.
I am close to a Volvo dealer, to echo the words of the master tech, they are incredibly reliable engines.
No worries Eric, the valve/cam cover removal step was basically flawless... Surprised it wasn't glued to the head to require assistance from "Blue" 😅
Lol I knew it he was talking to you 😂
I still remember that glued cover
What?? No water pump?? I feel robbed! Lol
Water pump is electric, like new BMWs.
Figured as much.... Still thought he'd throw something in the bin to compensate for lack of water pumpage 🤷
@@Dimoncenzo Purging the cooling system on these with electric pump is quite tedious job
@@Dimoncenzo If it's electric then it could be destroyed by putting "just a little too much" current through its wiring
@@StaticVapour590 nope. Vacuum bleed it, always bleeds with no problems
I've seen stacked rod bearings a time or three. I even had one set cause a legitimate intermittent rod knock. The rod bearing spins and one half lodges under the other, then becomes free again randomly. Definitely a show & tell moment in the shop that day!
Thank you for posting this video of a Volvo xc60 T5 with a 2.0. I own a 2017 xc60 T6 AWD purchased new and now have 102,554 miles. It’s in the Volvo shop for regular maintenance-ie new plugs, new coils, new water pump and thermostat, new catalytic converter, new engine mounts, oil change, new turbo, new supercharger gaskets and I believe new coolant hoses totaling $7,884.32. Runs like a charm and I change the oil every 3,500 miles and use CERATEC for Volvo engines. Granted service is expensive but overall reliability is flawless and the xc60 is like an adult go kart. I love it. Thank you again. I was very curious how this motor was built! A++++
Sounds like a pos
I think the big issue with this is multiple things adding up. This year, the oil control rings were a faulty design that clogged usually around 70,000 miles and wouldn't properly scrape oil off the cylinder wall and cause excessive oil consumption. As others have mentioned, there was an extended warranty offered for these issues to replace the pistons with rings. I had that done on my 2015 S60 just a few weeks ago. With no dipstick, there is no easy way to check the oil reliably. Plus, to be honest, most people these days don't check the oil, don't know how, and wouldn't know what they are looking at anyway. 2nd issue is extended oil change intervals. It's 10,000 miles on these engines, which is too much to begin with, but when they start consuming oil, it makes it that much worse. Next is the oil spec these need. For a 0W-20 energy saving oil, it has to have a specific VCCRBS0-2AE/SAE spec oil that isn't easily available in the US. They recommend the Castrol Edge Professional, but you can't buy that off the shelf and it's not sold online. There is a Liquid Moly you can get that meets that cert. They also have a 5W-30 recommendation if you can't get the OW-20, but it has to meet an ACEA A5/B5 cert. Not many US oils meet that spec. You have to get the Penzoil Platinum, or Castrol Edge full synthetics. If you are like most people and just go to an oil change place, 99% positive most of those do not meet that spec, so you're going to have issues even worse with oil consumption. The engines after these 3 years or so had the new piston and oil ring design and weren't so prone to this issue. All in all though, Volvo makes some good engines and they are pretty darn reliable.
Good stuff. I would add that the ACEA A3B4 spec is actually superior to the A5/B5 except for gas mileage, and you can find it fairly easily, in the 5W30....in case you get desperate. I order the RB spec Liquid Moly myself.
Volvo wouldn't cover this under warranty in the UK.
How much was the piston rings change? And do you live in the US? I think in Europe they dont change this under warranty unfortunately :(
@marcellkondor3414 yes I'm in the US and it was completely covered under an extended warranty
I recommend buying oil from FCP Euro. Lifetime warranty and free brakes, free oil after 2nd times!
FCP Euro will take your used oil and collection info from your used oil so you will see all information as metal shaving/coolant/gas containment.
My first and only Volvo was a 92 440 in England. Shifting with the left hand is awesome
The last time I was this early, my wife got pregnant!!
😂😂😂
Time to go get the morning after pill, it start decorating the baby room.... 😂😂😂😂
Was she your wife at the time?
@@blakehintz3207 yes!
Lmfao
Informative video.
I have a '95 850T. 296K miles,runs like a scalded cat,as they say.
Unopened engine,original:turbo,transmisson,catalytic converter.
Uses a quart of synthetic oil every 1500 miles.
My own maintenance.
NO rust anywhere. Maryland.
Thank you Eric! 👍 my friends dad worked at Volvo engine factory Skövde in Sweden for many years untill his retairment day (30 years)
Have just rebuilt a D4204T5 engine from a UK XC60 2014. 2L, 97k, 4cylinder, diesel, with a crack between 2 + 3 , bought a replacement engine, cracked liner!, relined and rebuilt, very nice engine and car. Biggest problem is burning oil due to a poor design on the oil control ring that has been addressed in 2016 onwards revisions. Love the channel, great to watch the tear downs and the patter!
Given the age of the car, I was expecting broken piston rings since this a major problem on the Volvo 4 bangers.years 2014 - 16. I totally agree that this was a case of neglect - insufficient oil quantity, cheap or improper oil. THIS IS WHY I HATE ELECTRONIC OIL QUANTITY DETECTION SYSTEMS, YOU NEED A PROPER OIL DIPSTICK!
Yes ! It's tear down time. I don't think you have done a KIA 2.0T yet. WHEN mine seizes I'll send it to you.
I'm still hoping for some truly ancient engines. Flathead Ford V8 comes to mind. Model T engine. A Willys Go-Devil would be fascinating, especially if it was the F-head!
Motorcycle engines would be cool too
@@sobrr13 Yep. I'd love to see a Lycoming or Continental flat four across his desk, too.
@@sobrr13he does cars. Not motorcycles.
My dad told me that during WWII, because no new cars were being built, nor new parts made, him and his friends used to replace worn rod bearings with strips of leather from old boots (or belts). They could nurse a few more miles out of old engines that way. Pans were easy to remove back in those days because they were designed for owners to work on, unlike now.
yep i have heard of people being able to use leather to take up some clearance and you could also use brass shim sheet too to take up some wear as dad used to use shim sheets to build up worn bearings, he also used to use a big branch of a mango tree as a crane to hoist the engine out
@@the_cazador7011 During WWII, most all metals were hard to come by. They were building B29s, Tanks, and P51s by the thousands, so any metal was scarce. Bullets have brass casings too. In 1943 all pennies but a few were made from steel because of the copper shortage.
Impressive
In the Eastern Bloc countries in times of supply shortages of communism era, wooden pistons made of hard wood like oak or walnut wood were used instead of normal ones. They were used mostly in motorcycle engines. Of course, their durability was short, but they allowed to drive a hundred or two hundreds of kilometers. Not a bad solution when the alternative was not to drive at all 😆 and replacing the piston in a relatively simple two-stroke engine was easy, cheap and quick.
2009 V70 2.4D Euro 5 no swirl flaps,172,000 miles and runs like it's just run in🙏
My good friend just had one of these t5 in his shop and it was turbo / supercharged for a total of 324 hp.
S90 2019
As he lowered the car his jack broke and smashed that oil pan you see . Replacement one factory kit was like 700$.
Belt kit required 100 to 120 k .
As a huge fan of the Volvo 100, 200, 700, 900 series and P80 (800, V,S,XC/70) platforms, I am thrilled to see you tear down ANY Volvo engine, frankly. Thanks for getting one in finally, I've been looking forward to this video for over 2 years. Growing up my Mom had a 144 & a 244, my Dad owned a P1800 (which I learned to drive manual on as a 16 yr old), a 242GLT, and two 760 turbos over the years (LOTS of RedBlocks over the years, would love to see you tear one of those down someday). I've owned an 850 turbo, a V70 T5, and now currently a 99 V70 N/A, a 98 S70 T5M, and an '86 244DL that I'm planning a V8 swap into. Love the Volvos, they have saved my life at least 3 times through their solid handling in potential accident situations, and their amazing front and side impact protections going back to the 70s. Seats so comfortable you can drive all day in and still get out feeling refreshed at your destination. In an age where most cars have the design sensibility and form that looks like it was squeezed out of the back end of a dog, I'll take a boxy Volvo any day.
I share your enthusiasm for Volvo.
Truly, a carmaker that came from logic and value and pride in engineering, more than fads or gimmicks. Rock solid, at least until the company reorganized.
@@bretfisher7286 agreed! I am sometimes surprised that a 25 yr old Volvo can still put a smile on my face when daily driving
@user-zh9zz5ru6r Yeah, they're something of a cult car-- mostly I mean the older ones-- but there's a subculture of Volvo fanatics. And for good reason.
@@bretfisher7286 my Mom's 244 was more of a 'get my high school buddies and me to the Rush concerts on the worst day of winter' kind of car, but I experienced real joy and felt lucky to cruise about in my Dad's 242, and his P1800 manual and later a euro-spec 760 turbo with a manual transmission. I would love to have a collection of just those three cars today...
@user-zh9zz5ru6r The P-1800 is such a fascinating and beautiful bit of work.
Mom had a 242 GT that I helped maintain for her.
I don't know why they termed it a GT. It was slow! But very fun.. and a beautiful car.
Have a 98 V70 122k 5spd manual with the non tutbo 5 cyl .. previous 95 850 wagon hit 280k at least since i kept in touch with owner. All time favorite volvo engine
Excellent video, Eric! Now I'm going to watch it . . . .
Reminds me of something Groucho Marx is alleged to have said:
"From the moment I picked up your book to the moment I put it down I was convulsed with laughter. Some day I intend to read it."
😂
20:55 It was originaly intended to be a oil dip stick but it wasn't possible to fit for various reasons but service required to get a pipe for sucking out oil. Some markets seemed started to get more serious requirments on how to handle the oil such as no spill and sucking out the oil was a proposal to solve that. Turned out it was too difficult/slow to use so in the long run the service guys developed another method using classic oil plug.
EDIT- I guess I called it!
I bet this failure is due to the infamous oil consumption issue. The problem is due to the oil control rings due to simply being too thin, and thus not having enough force pushing out on the cylinder walls to properly scrape off the oil. The engine then burns oil, carbon builds up on the piston and more importantly the rings from that, and the problem snowballs.
The only real fix is new, updated pistons and rings. Yes there is a TSB and even an extended warranty for this issue, but only up to 100k.
Source- My dad has an s60 with the same engine, and we have been dealing with the same issue. An engine flush every oil change helps clean off the carbon on the oil ring and staves off the oil consumption for a while.
P.S- Eric, the belt interval is 150k. My dad's aforementioned s60 is just about to come up on it.
buying tier 1 gas (shell/exxon and similar) is proven to make a huge difference in how clean an engine is, that'd help the problem
My family always does- probably why the oil consumption has never gotten as bad as others have experienced.@@bradhaines3142
The oil rings 20:54 stick in ring land then don't keep cyl wall film minimized. The other rings stick too. Low tension rings and long oil intervals have been bad news across the industry. DI is a factor as it is more sooty and that impacts oil via ring wipe down. The port + DI cleans intake valves but the DI soot problem is another reason several added back port injection.
150k seems insane. Sounds like they are trying to compete with timing chains. That and not many will keep these cars past a certain mileage point anyway. I just did the 2nd timing belt on our Acura 3.5L V6. 178kmiles and the engine still runs like new.
@@jimmyaber5920 Yep. The thin low tension rings help with fuel economy, but then you get issues like this. Not worth it in my opinion- that's why I drive an old truck.
Belt change for my 2.5T engine - 2005 XC70 - is 120km (75k miles). I've had the vehicle 14 years and, with 350k km on the clock, it continues to run like a well-oiled sowing machine with no oil top ups between 10k km services - I do check. Plenty of other high cost items, though; Volvo air conditioning compressors off scrappers do not come cheap, nor tailgate glass!
However, previous I had a 2.4L V40 whose belt let go @
Also a Volvo tech of 5 years here, i'd love to see a teardown of the 3.0/3.2 Si6 engine, the Ford/Volvo lovechild engine
I would certainly like to see that as well.
So, is it 3,2 i6 engine crap?
Does this particular engine have bad super thin oil control rings? Or is it okay?
What can be done to prevent this, or at least prolong the life of this engine?
Generally speaking, I think the long life oils are some of the culprit of many otherwise good engines breaking down. I've seen many Audi and VW engines inside, also the more expensive ones, broken, due to way too long oil intervals and long life oil making sludge all over the internals, for example blocking oil galleries and other parts, for example turbos.
Personally, I always change engine oil every 5000 km, no matter what, and always the oil filter as well.
Never had an engine that burns oil. In fact never had an engine break down. Knock on wood.
Cheers.
@@monzarace I have 2 Volvo P3s with this 3.0L straight 6 turbo, and they consume very little oil....1 L / 6000 miles. I have magnetic oil pan plugs, and I'll find < 5 tiny sparkles. Even with conscientious maintenance, I think the life of the engine depends on how hard you drive it. Race car engines need rebuilding every 30-50K for a reason.
I had a 2016 Volvo V60 T5, there was an issue with the T5 engines in 2015 and 2016, they had defective rings in them. It caused huge amounts of oil burn, in the range of around 2 quarts every 1,000 miles for mine. One of the rings eventually failed on cylinder 3, after finding out how much a replacement engine cost we ended up just scrapping the car. I miss that car, it drove so good!
I have a S60 T5 with an inline 5 and it is a massive oil burner. Talking 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles, sometimes even after 700. Now that I’ve seen the rings on this engine, I can confidently say this is the culprit.
If you own a P3 gen S60, XC60, XC70, or anything with an I4, I5, or I6, you have to check the oil. Weekly. They will absolutely go catastrophic very quickly.
Thank you for the video!! If you can find one, I’d really like to see a 2012-17 inline 5 teardown!
I would argue anyone who owns ANY engine should check the oil level at every gas fill up.
VAG says: 1 litre every 1.000 km's is within specifications
Dan that's too bad. I own old Audi 5 cylinder engines and fortunately they don't burn (unless I'm over 90 MPH for a long time) or leak any oil. But that was before these narrow tolerances were a thing.
I have a 2018 V90 T5 with a 2.0L direct injection Model B4204T23. Don’t have a lot of millage but changed the oil frequently more than what OEM recommends. Zero oil burn. The only complain i have it does not have oil level stick all electronic on the dash. I head this stick is optional to be installed at the dealer
My wife has a 2015 xc60 r design polestar. It's has the 6 cylinder turbo. It runs great.
Oh my goodness! My dreams have come true...I've been asking for this for over a year I think. Thank you, thank you!
Love seeing the teardown on engines I will never own. Some of these are engineering marvels? Thanks for the Saturday Evening videos!
So cool to see my 2015 engine tear down. I change my oil every 3k +/- a couple hunnert. I wasn't aware of the oil burning issue. I'll check it more often to see what's what. Good to know. Thanks.
Always cool to see some engines that are common in europe.
I think it would be fun to see you putting an engine together for april 1st.
An engine build on the 1st would be great (inb4 it's a teardown in reverse LUL)
Great videos. When he tore down my Honda engine and stated he didn’t see many of them. It made my year!
Ive grown to appreciate older volvo and saab engines
I do 150k a year to drive from europe to Russia so i have the old 5 cillinder 2.4d (D5) and have tuned up to 300hp but love more the diesel torque!
Sadly now i broke my auxiliary belt and destroy the timing belt. Luckily i was in Belgium and could do all the repairs myself!
Simple, well designed engine. Just an issue with the oil control rings and the owner didn't do maintenance.
I bet, what was causing it, was the owner being just _too cheap for a regular workshop-assisted _*_oil-change_*_ in combination with _*_constant manual re-fuelling_*_ of oil_ .. Hence the clogging.
Likely even a regular towing-vehicle for heavy loads (horse box-trailers, boats, caravans) or other trailers. Since this clocking is typical for such vehicle-usable (cold-start heavy-duty) from the first revolution, always driving with heavy load while also most often driving with low revs for the engine to have enough torque (Diesel).
Each of the aforementioned conditions alone are getting serious over time and eventually causing lasting harm, while Volvo-engines are pretty stubborn about assisted dying and are usually notoriously forgiving when running even any longer p[r]etty non-lubricated anyway, but _both together _*_in combination_*_ is always and without exception a recipe for disaster_ and a clean kill for virtually every make of engine. Eventually it hits Volvos too .. Such a shame!
Though even in the past, most engines died by the hands of their owners anyway (fundamental and wilful neglect, indifference, lack of interest et cetera), and *not* of mechanical failures or because of nefariously engineering by ill-fated managerial-driven cheapo-politics (which is the No #1 cause of engine-deaths theses days). It's a shame though.
I'd argue in favour of mandatory tech-courses of minimal mechanical courses.
I’m a loyal Volvo owner, own XC60 T6 2016 & V40 T4 2015. My XC60 fully maintained by Volvo Service Center since day 1. Current mileage is 80k miles only. Now, I’ve experienced the same engine oil consumption problem since Dec 2023. I’d written officialy to the Volvo Sweden but they refused to take responsibility simply because my XC60 out of warranty. Volvo today is no longer value loyal customer & happy to loose customer. Volvo no longer for life. Buy at Your Own Risk !
@@wanasmav The car itself mostly is, it's the owner of Volvo, the Chinese Geely Group.
Please keep it rolling with the Volvos, the v8 Volvo engine is very unique and the 5 cylinder is cool to see.
Oooh! The XC60 Carbon Edition!
I literally laughed out loud at that one!
21:20 same thing on my mercedes om611. no dipstick but a tube for a "dealer dipstick" and for sucking the oil out
T5 never really stood for 5cyl turbo, it was the engine designation for the 5th iteration of the 2.3 Turbocharged engine that Volvo put in the T-5R (B5234T5) and subsequent “sport” models were called T5s. There are plenty of other models with a 5cyl turbo setup but they shouldn’t be confused with the T5
The T5 existed before the T5-R. Back then it was initially the "5 cylinder turbo", the T4 was a 4 cylinder and the T6 was a 6 cylinder. After the P2 generation of cars the T designation went to signify the amount of power the engine produced and that it was a gasoline engine. The Diesels had a Dx numbering.
@@Google_Is_Evilno it didn’t, it was simply called 850 Turbo, and had a B5234T engine. The 96 T-5R was the first to denote T5 in the model and had a B5234T5, and the later 97 Rs had the B5234T4.
The ending T always designated a turbo engine and the following was the iteration of the engine. The success of the T-5R later lead to the T5 designation as it became popular.
Oil rings were indeed a common problem on these engines in the first generation. A facelift made the rings a lot bigger. Belt interval in the netherlands is every 120.000km (75.000 miles)
That engine was rode hard and put away wet, total lack of maintenance by the owner. My sister had a Volvo, her husband stayed on top of the maintenance, they never had an issue until it was hit hard in the rear. Had around 250,000 miles on it and insurance totaled it.
I've owned a T5 S90 since new in 2018. Nothing but 91 or better octane and 3-4k full synthetic Castrol edge oil changes. I drive the car not pamper it either, tires on the front are every year along with pads. That one has 96k city miles (Philly traffic) . I got another 2018 model year last year at the auction with only 27k on it now! Love the car!
I think Volvo Germany is just one of their branch...anyway do you ever heard of the Volvo B8444S engine ? This 4.4 L V8 Volvo engine (over 640hp) was built by Yamaha in Japan under Volvo design and specifications and was mated to a six speed Aisin Seiki AWTF80-SC...one of my dream engine.
The V8 only put out about 320 hp when it was put in Volvo cars - XC90 and S80. Except for the 2005 model year, it was a good engine.
1:39 better half had a Volvo 960 wagon ages ago that overheated once and apparently lifted the head off the deck over the middle cylinder. Had good compression on the ends, awful compression on the next inboard, and the middle cylinder wouldn't even move the needle on the gauge.
Finally, thanks Eric!! We as a family have had several Volvos, mostly the older gen engines in 5 or 6 cyl trim, but now have two of the 2.0L current gen, with DE and the turbo (XC40), or the turbo/super (XC90). This engine called for the ACEA A5/B5 spec oil originally, but Volvo then took it to another level with their own "RB" spec, which is HARD to find! Castrol Edge "Professional" OW20 meets it but often is only found at the Volvo dealer; I managed to find a new Liquid Moly product also meeting the requirement. This oil is also supposed to help with the DE issue. Thanks, I will watch this one many times, and feel free to do one on the older Volvo engines as well, they are bulletproof, impossible to wear out with good maintenance performed.
Volvo used to be such well made machines! One of my first cars was an 82’ sedan. What a tank. Sold it when it was 20 years old and almost 300k. Ran like a clock
Volvo means "I roll" in Latin. Thought you guys wanna know. At least you know that Sweden and Switzerland are separate countries ;)
But Volvo Germany surely??
@@volvo24091Volvo is only a brand name used by the Chinese car company Geely now. Nothing Swedish left.
@@volvo24091 i saw an article a decade ago by jeremy clarkson saying that volvo had went bankrupt and were merely a name on a collection of other manufacturers parts. he loved his xc90 though. perhaps there's a manufacturer in germany putting a volvo stamp on the custom parts by request.
I'm politically neutral, just like Sweden. 😁
@@volvo24091 Hella/Bosch/Continental in Germany manufacture lots of parts for all cars and stamped in the part there's usually car make and country the part is manufactured in.
Had Volvo since 1970 just three of them. Treat them well and they'll run for ever.
The last one had 333000 miles on it and wen on for another five years....
Never had the block down only thing changed was the distributer, and alternator.
It did need a new frel pump every 100000 miles....
Did 34 to the gallon when I got it was still doing that when Isold it. At the end it was using all of a mug full of oil between changes at 5000 miles.
Always amused by the engine number which had a load of zeros with. 007 at the end.
They are a bit expensive to buy and you will put a little more fuel on them but visits to the repair shop are few and far between.
Interestingly, ALL the current Volvo engines (with the exception of a few 3 cyl 1.5L) are 2.0L 4 cylinder, both diesel and gasoline. The different states of tune (T3, T4 etc) are set by the degree of additional features. So the top end "T8" is touted as being a replacement for a V8, having turbocharger, supercharger AND external electric boost, providing 455hp in total.
455bhp is on the recharge models, the earlier T8 have a slightly less powerful electric motor on the rear (89bhp vs 143bhp)
I have a 2020 T8. Volvo is sandbagging those numbers. Routine 0 to 60 is under 4 seconds.
@@phukfone8428Interesting I also have a MY2020 T8 V90 but I've not actually timed it 0-60
Have to say this was a very well made and *interesting* video. It moves on quickly enough for those who (like me) have a relatively short attention span and still retains the interest level without falling into the trap of dumbing everything down too much. All clearly shown and explained - clear, well-lit camera angles. Well done - I'll doubtless be dropping in again some time soon.
...I got my 2022 XC60 from West County Volvo N Manchester... : ^ ) HATE that it doesn't have a dipstick! Overall, a good ride.
Yes! Volvo!! I have two real T5s, and they have been a great engine series for a long time; but when you first started the video, I knew exactly where this was going. Like a number of manufacturers in the early teens, Volvo put those crappy oil control rings on the pistons. My hundred thousand mile 2015 V60 is, about to get new pistons and rings because of exactly this. Volvo was supposed to fix all these for us, but local dealers can make it extremely difficult. Great video, though; thank you so much, Eric!
Man I miss real 5 cylinders. Volvo essentially copied the Audi 5 cylinder, but it's unfortunate Volvo stopped making it.
When did your engine start burning oil? I have 50k miles on my 2016 s60 but haven’t had the issue prop up yet… I doubt I will qualify for the warranty when it pops up as I’m over 8 years now, but sadly no where close to 100k miles :(
@@mediocreman2 Elaborate how they "copied" it? Only 2.5TDI (D5252T) is Audi/VW engine.
About 5 hours away from home at my daughter’s volleyball tournament. Was still looking forward to this notification
As a Volvo tech, I would love to see you disassemble one of the 5-cylinder diesel engines. These are great engines that mechanically almost never fail, unless you get one of the early 2011-2012 2.0L 5-cylinders, which can suffer from cylinder sleeve cracks. But aside from that, they are flawless engines.
Lovely thick bearing surfaces on these Volvo engines.
Compare that to the tiny ones on the Hyundai/Kia engines.
yet these are actually LESS reliable than korean cars
@@bradhaines3142😂lol absolutely not
@@dgdave2673 theyre so bad they sell with a lifetime OWNER TRANSFERRABLE warranty. the maker has that little confidence in it, they actually say 'i promise we'll fix it'
The first few years of these engine with the low resistance rings had issues cause of the small holes in the scrapper rings. They will clog up at some point and cause oil consumption which will lead to burnt valves or something like this. normal servicing wont save it. Volvo switch to a upgraded pistons and rings that were more traditional i guess you would say. I wouldn't buy one of the first 3 years unless volvo did the upgrade or a smoking deal on the car.
My father drove subsequently Volvo's : 244, 264, Bertone, and finally the 764 diesel. All of them did around 450-500.000kms when traded in. That'sor experience with Volvo.
As iconic as their 5 and 6-cylinder powerplants are, I think Volvo made the right long term move by switching to all 4-cylinder powerplants. Sharing the same or very similar motor between all models simplifies manufacturing and reduces cost. Ideally, with just one powerplant to worry about, you'd think it'd be a decent motor as they could devote a lot of R&D budget to a single engine, rather than spreading it between 2 or 3 different engines.
Aurobay actually makes two different engines for Volvo Cars. A three cylinder and a four cylinder, similarly to how their previous architecture (the Volvo Modular Engine) had 4, 5 and 6 cylinder variants. Before that they used the Redblock, which only came as a four cylinder (They also used the PRV V6 and a VW diesel known as the D24, but those were not manufactured by Volvo).
Hasn't helped their reliability or interest in the brand, that is sales.
Eric, you asked at 15:35 how the base circle of the cam lobes could have oil varnish, wouldn't the lifter bucket wipe that off? The lifter buckets are solid, no hydraulics in this valve train, so there has to be clearance between the cam base circle and bucket when the valve is closed. My Triumph motorcycle has shims under the buckets to adjust this clearance. I guess there must be a maintenance task in this engine to check the clearances, remove camshafts and exchange buckets to adjust them.
There isn't. Effectively the wear is nil since valves are small and springs weak. Weak springs used with good valves and seats results in no need for adjustment. Solid buckets have been around 25 yrs on Volvo and longer on others and adjustment never became an issue. The dirty base circle is due to oil occlusion sticking tappet to valve stem. If that doesn't happen on bucket tappet system you have a lot more rattle and some valve tip wear from cam lobe profile rise slapping tappet into valve tip. Old Volvo 4 cyl Red motors had a rubber mushroom seal on top of valve to assure tappet sticks to valve. When that ages and cracks you could change valve shim and tighten them to 1/4 of spec lash and still have rattle. Replace mushrooms all is good again with .016-.018 inch lash
@@jimmyaber5920 I assume that the advent of lead free fuel and the necessity to use hardened valve seats is what made it possible to build engines with no means to adjust the valve gaps after manufacture. I read about one engine (Mitsubishi I think) that had 57 varieties of buckets to enable correct setting of valve gaps during manufacture.
Do ya think there's a VOLVO factory engine builder thinking "You animal. I gave you a fine engine that could have lasted a long time and you burn it up in only 100k miles."
Once. It’s hard to be outraged a second time
Nope, more likely “I’m glad it made it out of warranty.”
As long as you buy a new Volvo, they're sound as a pound.
Obviously the physical fitting of the VV timing solenoids will only go back on 1 way... but isn't it funny the the green plated one goes on the silver side and the silver plated one goes on the green side! My hat's off to you for all your expertise. No doubt gained by hundreds of hours of engine tear down and rebuilts. For me this kind of video is better than Netflix. :) :) thanks!
Are the snack packs in the background representative of the oil you find in some of these engines?😂😂
I have the same engine in my P3 V60, the serial number is 0005350 so one of the very very first ones. The previous owner had the pistons updated early, probably before 50k. Engine has 202k on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Really good, simple, robust engine. I will probably do a basic carbon cleaning when the weather warms up. I wonder how hard it would be to make an aftermarket dipstick for it.
As a mature gentleman, mid-70's, I have a hard time wrapping my mind around 2 hp//cu. inch in a daily driver..
The reason why this one went bad is because people don't do there freaking oil change on time. Should be every 4K with any Modern turbo engine. The T5 is a great engine they go well over 200K of you take care of them. I never own one but my friend has a 2020 Xc 60 for a few years now over 100k runs perfectly. My Hyundai sonata 2.0T has 180k but new engine from Hyundai at 150K. So yeah guys just do your oil changes on time. I do everything myself so I know all my cars are well taking care of.
2 minutes after upload here. Best part of the week
Yeah, the Volvo I4, I5 and I6 cam carrier cover you loosen about 2 turns in the approximate order you do and then crack it loose. If you rotate the cams slightly out of time they’ll find a spot where there’s the least amount of residual tension from the springs/ buckets on the lobes. The timing belt tensioner had that Allen keyhole in it for adjusting preload tension. as you tighten it. Simply loosen that and the belt goes slack for removal. Cam gears come off after timing components and just before cam carrier cover comes off.
Modern Volvos don't have dipsticks any more, at least my 2016 V60 doesn't. It just has a sensor that lights up the dash monitor saying "oil low add x amount". Frustrating, especially since in true Volvo fashion it likes to burn oil.
EDIT: Hah, I knew when the video started this engine would have an oil-related issue.
Thanks for the video Eric. I have rebuilt the block and heads on dozens of volvo 5 cyl and 6 cyl engines. I own a xc60 2015.5 with this engine. It burns oil excessively. no dip stick. I am glad this volvo tells me when its a quart low or it would have run dry. The dealer would fix it if it had under 100k but we had 112k when the recall hit. It has over 125k now. I plan on tearing into it soon. This video helped me know what to expect being a little different than the 5 cyl. Also loved your Jaguar 5.0 SC video. Done that job as well.
Try doing an oil flush before your oil changes, I have heard that can clean up the clogged rings and reduce oil burn. Some have had good luck.
The XC60 has never seen Swedish shores. They are built in Belgium. The only Swedish built Volvo in the US is the XC90. The rest is from Belgium and the Netherlands.
I am really glad I watched this video. I have a 2019 S60 T6 and I am pretty stringent on the oil changes, and this is exactly why!! I am also definitely going to be looking for the hidden oil tube. I can't stand not being able to check the oil the old way. The sensor is good for oil level I guess but I want to see and smell the oil. Also I will definitely have to plan to have the intake valves cleaned at some point, those looked real crusty at 101k miles (probably worse due to the oil consumption but still). I am sure the supercharger will make that an even bigger expense and/or pain in the ass.
Do you like pudding? I keep seeing the boxes in the background .
I own a 2011 C70 D4 5cyl 2ltr 177bhp and a 2017 XC60 D5 2.4ltr 5 pot 220bhp. Both cars from new. Looks to me like either water ingress or more likely the oil has not been changed or topped up as per service schedule. Very rare for Volvo engines to fail here in the UK, where we have bought more diesels.
Time to break down those snack packs
I have a Volve V40 2l Turbo, from 2004, 320.000 km's, just had the first minor repairs (headgasket replacement), but with a little maintenance it still runs like a top...
WTF? It's missing a whole damn cylinder!
The 2.0 liter was new/next gen in 2015 and you nailed it on the problem; Volvo fixed that issue almost immediately, probably over engineering the solution. I have that engine in a 2019 and it uses not even a drop of oil. I do miss the dipstick! It is a great engine now. They also have their own oil spec now for that engine, somewhat hard to find but the dealer has it: Castrol Edge PROFESSIONAL 0W20, meeting the "rb" spec, and you can also find Liquid Moly and Motul that meet that RB Volvo spec as well.
How about a video explaining all of the different bolt head types you find during a teardown. Love your running commentary!
Shouldn't have any problems with my 2006 volvo D5, i check the oil regularly (and its always full)
Not the smoothest engine but sounds great for a diesel and its quite powerful too!
'03 Forester was using 1 qt/1000 miles or less. Pulled the pistons. Rings looked very similar to what you have here. Oil feed holes behind the oil control rings were plugged full with brown carbon! Drill and a little bit to clean them out!
Haven't driven it far enough to tell if my ring job was successful. Can't see that'll hurt anything!
So I have a 2015 xc70 with this engine. Great information. I would like to buy one of those pistons to put on my desk to remind me to keep after the oil😢
engine nicely built, seems that volvo engineers had mechanics in mind ,seems a very serviceable engine