Agreed! I had suggested it several videos ago, and quickly saw I was sent alone…. MANY people were saying it. I still believe it would definitely help, keeping the elements at bay as much as possible certainly won’t hurt.
Part of the problem is that you are storing your resin in a hot container box, that's an assumption on my part. When you start with hot resin and mix it with catalyst, you're going to get a very quick exothermic reaction. You should consider putting the resin you're going to use for the day into your air-conditioned area the night before to let it cool down. Alternatively, you could set your resin mixing pots into containers of ice to keep it cool.
What worked for me to laminate over wood was to apply a saturation coat to the wood and allow it to cure to make a air seal to the interior of the wood. Then you can apply laminate cloth as usual
Just a couple of suggestions. As someone else said try to keep your resin stored cool. Also mix it in wider shallower containers so more surface area. Also what catalyst ratio are you using? You can go down to 1%. Wet out the Balsa first too and let it gel a wee bit before you start to glass it. You guys are doing an amazing job.
Look into using a fresh air respirator. I believe I saw MJ Sailing using one a while back. That should improve your visibility issues and I think you'll find that it is much more comfortable as you wear the canisters around your waste and don't have that added weight on your neck.
You’re learning all the fun things that happen when you try to laminate. And what you’re doing we were doing in the early 1990s. After that we all went to vacuum infusion. set up as slow, but you could actually infuse in the middle of the night when it’s the coolest. Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
Open front cover on your indoor a/c unit and check the air screens, perhaps even daily. They can really get clogged on a work site. Thanks for the video.
The AC unit certainly cost more than night shift work but you guys get to keep your day schedules:) Great work impregnating the air pockets. Jim Rodgers
Can’t work at night or on Sundays. So AC was the only way. Also, even if we could work at night. It would mean sleeping sitting the day? When it’s 40C outside and sunny. With no AC? No thanks.
On the AC head in the boat. With the box on it I can’t tell what air flow can get in the top. But it doesn’t look like there is much room for air to come in the top of the head (evaporator head). It needs free flowing airflow. Otherwise the coils will freeze up and it will cause the fan motor to burn up. You need to make sure air can get into the unit as unencumbered as possible.
Hi Dan & Kika: The wood will indeed suck the resin out of the cloth. You should lightly wet the core to keep the weight down. When the resin starts to gel no more will be drawn in to the wood. Then it's time to roll another coat of resin over it to get the chemical bond and then glass per normal. I'm 395 steps into your journey, and always click on your videos when I see them. I am extremely interested in what you are going to build out, because I'm doing something similar in my C&C 36 this summer. Cheers!
Be mindful of blocking air intake on the top of your indoor unit when sanding if running during that time. Cleaning the filter often will help reduce restricting air flow through the cooling coil. Exciting project with creative solutions.
All you needed was a vacuum pump (available at many tool rental places) to evacuate the split system. The compressor is precharged with refrigerant. Splits are da bomb!
And even if pre-charged it may not have enough refrigerant. And the install should be checked for leaks before releasing the hounds. Note that many, if not most, DIY installs are not checked for leaks beyond watching the vacuum gauge if you happen to have one for an hour or so. Its a gamble yet most DIY installers succeed just fine.
Kika, your new full face mask is a great investment. Who knew that watching two people fibreglassing a boat would be interesting viewing! Nice title, I wonder how long it took you to come up with that!
Agreed. The correct PPE is critical to any work project. We only have one life, and we need to look after ourselves. Having PEE that fits your personal requirements is really important.
One thing that you really need is to put some kind of awning over Uma. While she has white topsides and deck which will reflect some heating you really need to not have direct sunlight on her. This will not only reduce the heating, it will also make the AC more effective. If nothing else, get some of those reflective survival blankets stretched out over the deck, and rig a tarp over the outside unit on your AC so it will not have to work as hard.
We did something similar in a boat renovation and solved some of the deck flex by putting in a compression post in a convenient point around the middle. Ours holds up one end of the saloon table. Also provides a large grab point in bumpy conditions. Been fine for 10 years. Yours is looking good
If you have a water source hose down the deck, before or as your working inside. The evaporation of the water from the deck surface will cool the interior. Alternatively, put up a tarp over the deck to break the sun on the deck surface. White color is better.
The injection repairs are a good way to fix those voids. Even though your laminate is vinylester I would use a low viscosity slow epoxy for that it is a much better adhesive and has lower shrinkage than the VE resin.
Oh one more thing. Try wetting the glass out on some plastic sheet or cardboard then lifting it in place when doing vertical areas. Sounds tricky but you will get the hang of it and you can wet the glass out quicker.
Good balsa work! I really think a matrix of foam cored ribs would add a very significant degree of strength to the cabin top. Also the loss of the raised hatch frames has removed an element of the strength. Once you know where the hatches and deck fittings go you can choose locations for the ribs. Too much flexing will in time result in crazing of the gelocat and weakened fibres. With the hugely strengthened hull, a reinforced deck structure will avoid issues with the hull to deck joint.
For the celing, if you roll te glass up on a funoodle I will allow you to match the shape of the ceiling as you place it on a wetted out surface. Less mess, less stress, more productive days.
Every time I watch your videos, it's like watching a TV show. There's also a short video MV every week. It's awesome. If vertical balsa or PVC foam doesn't have delamination and bubbles, it's better to vacuum infuse resin. Of course, your method is strong enough, and there is no weight requirement like a racing boat. Pay more attention to rest when the weather is hot, and drink more water containing electrolytes. In addition, I look forward to your visit to the boat owners around. It would be best if you have different RIGs, such as junk rigs, Gaff rigs, and Lateen rigs, which are suitable for single-person driving and suitable for cross-ocean sailing like you.
Very interesting as I am in the process of installing a similar AC system in my workshop here in North Central Florida. One difference is that my system came pre-charged with coolant. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
The boat is super strong now. I think you should just call in the crain and flip the whole thing over to fiberglass the ceiling. Make it a lot easier for you. 😂
I think you need to keep some free space on the top of the spliter, since it just sucks air in from the top and blows it out colder on the front. If you box it in, it may not do it's job properly or at max efficiency. Just a thoug.
Yeah that's a definite concern. He will probably just build a cover which draws air from the bottom and use a pleated HEPA air filter to catch the dust.
Yeah that's a definite concern. He will probably just build a cover which draws air from the bottom and use a pleated HEPA air filter to catch the dust.
Kika, I'm not sure if you wear glasses, but if you do, put them on before the whole head gear and doing that might keep that top bit away from your eyes enough for you to see better and still give you a good seal.
Slow hardener. when I was using epoxy there were 3 levels of hardener, fast, normal and slow. The point about keeping the containers cool is also important, but once the cool thin layer of resin coats the job it will warm up very quickly, slow hardener is your friend! You could also work at night when it's cooler. Best wishes
Hiya, we use 3m battery powered hoods at work. It's a belt pack you wear on your back that has a battery with fan and filter, it forces filtered air through a hose an into the hood giving you cooling and positive air pressure which stops misting meaning you don't need a mask or anything touching the skin on your face. They are a little on the pricey side though 🫤
I seem to remember that the professionals did saturate the mats with resin, folded them up and then wetted the hull with a roller and put the drenched mats on. You just rolled the balsa, put the dry mats on and then put resin on with a roller. That might be the cause for the bubbles?
@@boooshes I meant the professionals that did their hull, the ribs and the glassing in of the bulkheads some steps before. I just did not have the time yet to go back and check.
I switched over to a full face respirator too -- Currently grinding down the deck head on SV Rumour in prep for some non-structural glass work. Couple things I found useful: 1) I have a beard and some gaps in the outside seal of my mask. I use a little bit of Vaseline to help seal those up. 2) The replaceable plastic shields for the full face respirator will help keep the lens clean and unscratched. The work you're both doing looks great! Keep having fun ;)
Dan, I thought of a possible problem. Once the resin is cured fully you get the anime blush on the epoxy that will need to be washed off with water. I'm not fully sure if that will form between the layers but I think it's certainly possible. That would mean the new resin won't stick properly.
You could probably lay the boat on it’s side with how strong you made that hull. First boat I owned I learned to beach it, and it did fine on its side, wasn’t nearly as strong as you made yours. Might make glassing that cabin top a little easier? It’s a weird sensation tho, having your boat lay sideways. Whew. Air fed respirators are key for chemicals.
I know from making a cedar kayak your better off glassing when the temperature is cooling. As tempuature increases the wood off gases and makes bubbles.
You should build an intake plenum for your air return and go through the mast hole. Won't economize well but it will create positive pressure and exhaust some dust!
Aircon should help with ambient heat, but using a few separated layers of shade-sail/tarp should help with suns direct radiant heat.... just my two bobs!
Building wooden SUPs, I found that it was necessary to apply a thin "cheater" coat to the wood before starting with the glass. This sealed the wood and ensured that there would not be any soaking up from the laminating layers.
I’ve been in a similar situation where, if I just had a space with a controlled environment, if I just had a large dust collection system, if I just had a lift. You get the idea.
Put your resin and if possible glass in the fridge. Use a pre accelerated resin and reduce accelerator volume! Prime the balsa first with plenty of resin. Pre-wet your glass
Surprised you're not wearing a head sock. Most fiberglass and paint supply places have them. About $3 a piece. You don't want to have any open flesh or hair at all. With regard to the headliner... Even though they may appear loose in many areas without contact or Bond, It's a large laminate that has strengths and is bonded in quite a few areas and thru- bolted in many areas for deck hardware- this acts to undergird the deck in a way that make a rigid structure. I'm rooting for you two to get this beautiful Pearson back in the water sailing. But your videos are showing what not to do, unless time and expense is not a concern.
A Canadian who doesn't like it hot. Who would think that would be a thing? LOL. Looks like you are well sorted now, though. I assume the AC unit will also pump out any moisture in the air, so that must also be good I guess.
A tarp over the deck would probably make the interior a lot cooler. If the hull is exposed to the sun, it will still absorb quite a lot of heat, even with the AC on.
If you continue having issues with your dust mask. You may need to use a remote air supply mask. Then the pump and filter will be outside the work area. There would be lest bulk and weight on your head. Yes, you would have the filtered air supply hose to deal with. But have fewer issues with rubber on your face and better visibility. Less fogging of the face shield.
good to see your quick response air con crew were up to the job .. watching the lengths you folk are going to to achieve your dream accomodation for hopefully the foreseeable adventures . With technology moving ahead at alarming speed . I have every confidence in your ability to choose and install quality equipment and products incorporated into UMA,S refit ./ renovate .
Uma will be like my 350yr old axe, In it's life all it needed was 5 new handles and 3 new heads ... But well worth it!! Do you have an approximate splash date in mind? .... Stay Safe & Fair Winds!! ☘
If you need more cooking than the AC cab provide I’ve had a lot of success w sprinklers on the roof of shipping containers for cooling. Drainage obviously an issue but works amazingly well
Again as you guys were wetting out the doe you didn’t have enough resin with the light you could see dry spots much better then the other side but still the balsa is going to suck out the resin from the glass
@SailingUma Air bubbles caused because you are glassing in the morning. Air in the balsa is warming and expanding through the day after you seal the surface with resin. If you glassed in the evening when the air in the wood is already warm but then cools, it will suck the resin into the wood.
Nah. We've been in the UK in the winter. Never again!!!! Besides Sardinia is beautiful! At least we can venture off on the weekends and enjoy the sunshine ;)
The split units that I have purchased come pre-charged, I am surprised that this unit was not. Once fired up, you should be able to hang meat in there.
I installed a pre-charged unit from “Mr. Cool” in my shed last fall. Quick and easy. Now I have climate-controlled storage for all the cordless yard tools and electric bikes.
@@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017No. they’re quick-connect fittings (with threaded locking rings) with valves on either side of the connections. Once you’ve put them together, you open the valves and you’re ready to go.
This is most likely an EU thing. I've installed two mini split units similar to the one they put in the boat, and both came charged with freon. I live in the United States.
... if you already have the mini split... maybe you could hack it into having a seawater heat exchanger instead of an air cooled coil. I always want to see what sort of hyperspecific applications a cheap mini split could be configured into. I feel like there's so much potential for them.
14:40 3M sells their respirator mask in different sizes but it can be problematic to find those different sizes in-stock locally. If the mask is riding up and blocking your vision then that means its not getting a good seal around your nose and is too large. 3M color codes their mask sizes and the mask in the vid is a Medium which would probably fit Dan just fine(3M claims that size fits 80% of all people) but you need to look for the same mask in a light grey color(the part that seals around the face) which is the small size. Another option is to go a Powered Air Respirator System, which seals against the neck.
Hey you might have a 3m rep in your area 3m are really good for small sizes if you reach out to them. they can't offer certain things so widely as 95% of customers are in a narrow size range, but me and my big head got a mask from them during covid and I bet they might be keen to for you to advertise their size support.
We only ever laminated later in the day with falling temperatures. You nearly always get air bubbles when the temps are rising...I don´t know the exact science but falling temp lamination always worked...or air-con!
Kind of dumb thinking here but does it make sense to put a tarp-tent over the deck to keep direct sun off and lower the temp so the AC works less hard.
One word; Shade.
Direct sunlight is making the interior of Uma hot. You need to rig up a tent over the deck/side of Ima that is exposed to the sun.
Yup, Mylar deck sheets.
Agreed! I had suggested it several videos ago, and quickly saw I was sent alone…. MANY people were saying it. I still believe it would definitely help, keeping the elements at bay as much as possible certainly won’t hurt.
Get a cheap pvc structure over the boat and throw some cheap white canvas over the boat. Old sail perhaps use what you got.
Great idea, even just a tarp over would help
The must move to Canada. It‘s always cold n Canada.
We finally own our ocean-crossing boat. After so many years of watching multiple channels of TH-camrs doing it, it is unreal to finally get here.
Congrats! Enjoy it safely 🎉 cheers from Spain
Way to go! happy sailings!
Get up ya!
🎉Congrats! Wishing you successful boat projects and safe journeys.
Bon voyage !
Part of the problem is that you are storing your resin in a hot container box, that's an assumption on my part. When you start with hot resin and mix it with catalyst, you're going to get a very quick exothermic reaction. You should consider putting the resin you're going to use for the day into your air-conditioned area the night before to let it cool down. Alternatively, you could set your resin mixing pots into containers of ice to keep it cool.
I wonder if working nights rather than daytime might help too.
They can’t, the yard doesn’t allow it.
@MikeShepherd-Royal awesome I was wondering if that was the case it's a shame as it would help
this is the correct answer
Perhaps keeping it in a portable fridge...
You guys gonna be so proud once this is done. Hang in there!
Cleaning the topfilter every day, very very important. Take it off and clean it with water. Very efficient and quick
What worked for me to laminate over wood was to apply a saturation coat to the wood and allow it to cure to make a air seal to the interior of the wood. Then you can apply laminate cloth as usual
adding a bit of aerosil to the resin before applying to the balsa core will close the pores faster, reducing the amount or resin too
Nice to see that side two came out much better than side one. What a PITA drilling all those holes.
Just a couple of suggestions. As someone else said try to keep your resin stored cool. Also mix it in wider shallower containers so more surface area.
Also what catalyst ratio are you using? You can go down to 1%.
Wet out the Balsa first too and let it gel a wee bit before you start to glass it.
You guys are doing an amazing job.
Look into using a fresh air respirator. I believe I saw MJ Sailing using one a while back. That should improve your visibility issues and I think you'll find that it is much more comfortable as you wear the canisters around your waste and don't have that added weight on your neck.
Removing the Peel Ply looks like the BEST and MOST ENJOYABLE part of doing fiberglass work! 😀
It really is. Also hitting it after and hearing how super solid it is compared to before.
If your ac isn’t working as well as you would like, a simple umbrella to shade it in the heat of the day will make a huge difference.
You’re learning all the fun things that happen when you try to laminate. And what you’re doing we were doing in the early 1990s. After that we all went to vacuum infusion. set up as slow, but you could actually infuse in the middle of the night when it’s the coolest.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
Yup, reminds me of modding and repairing surfboards in the late 70's and trying all these different resins! 👍👨🦳
I think you should use balsa core on the cabin top and the deck. That reduces the condensation especially when in cooler temperatures.
The deck is already cored with balsa. That’s why we used it for the repairs.
Open front cover on your indoor a/c unit and check the air screens, perhaps even daily. They can really get clogged on a work site. Thanks for the video.
We installed a removable prefilter for dusty days.
The AC unit certainly cost more than night shift work but you guys get to keep your day schedules:) Great work impregnating the air pockets. Jim Rodgers
Can’t work at night or on Sundays. So AC was the only way. Also, even if we could work at night. It would mean sleeping sitting the day? When it’s 40C outside and sunny. With no AC? No thanks.
On the AC head in the boat. With the box on it I can’t tell what air flow can get in the top. But it doesn’t look like there is much room for air to come in the top of the head (evaporator head). It needs free flowing airflow. Otherwise the coils will freeze up and it will cause the fan motor to burn up.
You need to make sure air can get into the unit as unencumbered as possible.
Great to see the progress, boat building is not for the faint hearted or the impatient!
Uma is really coming along! The HVAC unit is going to make your life so much better this Summer! 😅
Hi Dan & Kika: The wood will indeed suck the resin out of the cloth. You should lightly wet the core to keep the weight down. When the resin starts to gel no more will be drawn in to the wood. Then it's time to roll another coat of resin over it to get the chemical bond and then glass per normal.
I'm 395 steps into your journey, and always click on your videos when I see them.
I am extremely interested in what you are going to build out, because I'm doing something similar in my C&C 36 this summer.
Cheers!
Be mindful of blocking air intake on the top of your indoor unit when sanding if running during that time. Cleaning the filter often will help reduce restricting air flow through the cooling coil.
Exciting project with creative solutions.
All you needed was a vacuum pump (available at many tool rental places) to evacuate the split system. The compressor is precharged with refrigerant. Splits are da bomb!
Not all are pre-charged
And even if pre-charged it may not have enough refrigerant. And the install should be checked for leaks before releasing the hounds. Note that many, if not most, DIY installs are not checked for leaks beyond watching the vacuum gauge if you happen to have one for an hour or so. Its a gamble yet most DIY installers succeed just fine.
Kika, your new full face mask is a great investment. Who knew that watching two people fibreglassing a boat would be interesting viewing! Nice title, I wonder how long it took you to come up with that!
Agreed. The correct PPE is critical to any work project. We only have one life, and we need to look after ourselves. Having PEE that fits your personal requirements is really important.
One thing that you really need is to put some kind of awning over Uma. While she has white topsides and deck which will reflect some heating you really need to not have direct sunlight on her. This will not only reduce the heating, it will also make the AC more effective. If nothing else, get some of those reflective survival blankets stretched out over the deck, and rig a tarp over the outside unit on your AC so it will not have to work as hard.
Glasswork is so tedious and messy. But it’s paying off. Well done!
We did something similar in a boat renovation and solved some of the deck flex by putting in a compression post in a convenient point around the middle. Ours holds up one end of the saloon table. Also provides a large grab point in bumpy conditions. Been fine for 10 years. Yours is looking good
11:31 This smile. So sweet.😊
Adding more stiffness and strength to the top deck sides. Learing by doing. Fixing the mistakes past and present.
A/C is a quality of life upgrade.
If you have a water source hose down the deck, before or as your working inside. The evaporation of the water from the deck surface will cool the interior. Alternatively, put up a tarp over the deck to break the sun on the deck surface. White color is better.
11:34 complete with the office smash zoom haha
That's what she said.
The injection repairs are a good way to fix those voids. Even though your laminate is vinylester I would use a low viscosity slow epoxy for that it is a much better adhesive and has lower shrinkage than the VE resin.
Oh one more thing.
Try wetting the glass out on some plastic sheet or cardboard then lifting it in place when doing vertical areas.
Sounds tricky but you will get the hang of it and you can wet the glass out quicker.
Oh Well Done! Air con for the win, good job Dan 👍🤗🤗
The best instructional videos Include the learning curve. Very helpful in so many ways. Thanks for choosing the DIY experience ; )
If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning anything.
@@SailingUma better even to learn from others mistakes
Good balsa work! I really think a matrix of foam cored ribs would add a very significant degree of strength to the cabin top. Also the loss of the raised hatch frames has removed an element of the strength. Once you know where the hatches and deck fittings go you can choose locations for the ribs. Too much flexing will in time result in crazing of the gelocat and weakened fibres.
With the hugely strengthened hull, a reinforced deck structure will avoid issues with the hull to deck joint.
Might be worth building a shade structure..? Makes a huge difference in the desert
For the celing, if you roll te glass up on a funoodle I will allow you to match the shape of the ceiling as you place it on a wetted out surface. Less mess, less stress, more productive days.
Yeah! Full-face masks! Definitely use them with the hooded Tyvek suits.
And yes, it appears to be one size too large for you.
Kika, there are also full face masks with a backpack pump on them. A bit pricy, but no fogging, and filtered pumped air in is real nice.
I have really been enjoying your boat work videos. It is great to watch people actually do hard things and overcome challenges one at a time.
Popping some popcorn watching them work. Enjoy it.
Every time I watch your videos, it's like watching a TV show. There's also a short video MV every week. It's awesome.
If vertical balsa or PVC foam doesn't have delamination and bubbles, it's better to vacuum infuse resin.
Of course, your method is strong enough, and there is no weight requirement like a racing boat.
Pay more attention to rest when the weather is hot, and drink more water containing electrolytes.
In addition, I look forward to your visit to the boat owners around. It would be best if you have different RIGs, such as junk rigs, Gaff rigs, and Lateen rigs, which are suitable for single-person driving and suitable for cross-ocean sailing like you.
Very interesting as I am in the process of installing a similar AC system in my workshop here in North Central Florida. One difference is that my system came pre-charged with coolant. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Some units is a mono block unit. It only requires electricity and a hole in the wall.
Tack cloth for cleaning up the fine dust after vacuuming. It's a sticky cloth in a bag... Really good to avoid fumes from acetone etc
The boat is super strong now. I think you should just call in the crain and flip the whole thing over to fiberglass the ceiling. Make it a lot easier for you. 😂
Ha!! We had a very similar discussion
I think you need to keep some free space on the top of the spliter, since it just sucks air in from the top and blows it out colder on the front. If you box it in, it may not do it's job properly or at max efficiency. Just a thoug.
Yeah that's a definite concern. He will probably just build a cover which draws air from the bottom and use a pleated HEPA air filter to catch the dust.
Yeah that's a definite concern. He will probably just build a cover which draws air from the bottom and use a pleated HEPA air filter to catch the dust.
Nice work using the mini split AC in the boatyard! Out of the box thinking.
Kika, I'm not sure if you wear glasses, but if you do, put them on before the whole head gear and doing that might keep that top bit away from your eyes enough for you to see better and still give you a good seal.
Slow hardener. when I was using epoxy there were 3 levels of hardener, fast, normal and slow. The point about keeping the containers cool is also important, but once the cool thin layer of resin coats the job it will warm up very quickly, slow hardener is your friend! You could also work at night when it's cooler. Best wishes
Hiya, we use 3m battery powered hoods at work. It's a belt pack you wear on your back that has a battery with fan and filter, it forces filtered air through a hose an into the hood giving you cooling and positive air pressure which stops misting meaning you don't need a mask or anything touching the skin on your face. They are a little on the pricey side though 🫤
I seem to remember that the professionals did saturate the mats with resin, folded them up and then wetted the hull with a roller and put the drenched mats on. You just rolled the balsa, put the dry mats on and then put resin on with a roller. That might be the cause for the bubbles?
Watch the Duracell Project. They are doing it better. In cool Washington.
They don't have time to do that with the vinyl-ester resin in this heat.
@@boooshes I meant the professionals that did their hull, the ribs and the glassing in of the bulkheads some steps before. I just did not have the time yet to go back and check.
@@berndheiden7630 oh yes, I now understand what you were referring to. Could have been cooler or could have used less catalyst , not sure
I switched over to a full face respirator too -- Currently grinding down the deck head on SV Rumour in prep for some non-structural glass work. Couple things I found useful: 1) I have a beard and some gaps in the outside seal of my mask. I use a little bit of Vaseline to help seal those up. 2) The replaceable plastic shields for the full face respirator will help keep the lens clean and unscratched.
The work you're both doing looks great! Keep having fun ;)
Dan, I thought of a possible problem. Once the resin is cured fully you get the anime blush on the epoxy that will need to be washed off with water. I'm not fully sure if that will form between the layers but I think it's certainly possible. That would mean the new resin won't stick properly.
Yes. Some epoxies have blush. Not all though. But we’re using a laminating vinylester resin. So blush isn’t a thing.
Blush is a reaction to moisture in the air. Shouldn't happen between laminations.
Yep, it's not epoxy.
I like it when it's blushes! 🤔😊
Well done guys, keep it up!! Hope my home country is treating you well!
You could probably lay the boat on it’s side with how strong you made that hull. First boat I owned I learned to beach it, and it did fine on its side, wasn’t nearly as strong as you made yours. Might make glassing that cabin top a little easier? It’s a weird sensation tho, having your boat lay sideways. Whew. Air fed respirators are key for chemicals.
Thank you, thank you.Dan and kika❤
I know from making a cedar kayak your better off glassing when the temperature is cooling. As tempuature increases the wood off gases and makes bubbles.
You should build an intake plenum for your air return and go through the mast hole. Won't economize well but it will create positive pressure and exhaust some dust!
Love you kids! Take care of yourselves. ❤
Aircon should help with ambient heat, but using a few separated layers of shade-sail/tarp should help with suns direct radiant heat.... just my two bobs!
Building wooden SUPs, I found that it was necessary to apply a thin "cheater" coat to the wood before starting with the glass. This sealed the wood and ensured that there would not be any soaking up from the laminating layers.
Yup. Same thing with boats. We did, but just didn't let it cure long enough/put enough on before glassing. We'll go over it all in our next video.
Yeah, get a tent to give Uma shade that may help.
I’ve been in a similar situation where, if I just had a space with a controlled environment, if I just had a large dust collection system, if I just had a lift. You get the idea.
I can't wait to see the final project and then watch where you sail to 😊😊😊
I’d recommend going and getting some extra filer cloth to put on the filer of the ac because it will fill up quickly in the dusty environment
Never thought of injecting the resin before!
I really enjoy seeing how you tackle the problems ie AC, Air voids. BRAVO Zulu 🎉
Put a tarp over the deck with a 6" air gap to keep the direct sunlight off and your AC won't have to work so hard!
Put your resin and if possible glass in the fridge. Use a pre accelerated resin and reduce accelerator volume! Prime the balsa first with plenty of resin. Pre-wet your glass
Super Kiki, when the uma will be under sail, best regards, with Gdansk
Dan, most of the A/C units are precharged from the factories. All you have to do is hook up the lines and vacuum.
As you inject resin at the bottom add some suction with your Shop-Vac at the top.
Surprised you're not wearing a head sock. Most fiberglass and paint supply places have them. About $3 a piece. You don't want to have any open flesh or hair at all.
With regard to the headliner... Even though they may appear loose in many areas without contact or Bond,
It's a large laminate that has strengths and is bonded in quite a few areas and thru- bolted in many areas for deck hardware- this acts to undergird the deck in a way that make a rigid structure.
I'm rooting for you two to get this beautiful Pearson back in the water sailing.
But your videos are showing what not to do, unless time and expense is not a concern.
A Canadian who doesn't like it hot. Who would think that would be a thing? LOL.
Looks like you are well sorted now, though. I assume the AC unit will also pump out any moisture in the air, so that must also be good I guess.
A tarp over the deck would probably make the interior a lot cooler. If the hull is exposed to the sun, it will still absorb quite a lot of heat, even with the AC on.
If you continue having issues with your dust mask.
You may need to use a remote air supply mask.
Then the pump and filter will be outside the work area. There would be lest bulk and weight on your head.
Yes, you would have the filtered air supply hose to deal with.
But have fewer issues with rubber on your face and better visibility. Less fogging of the face shield.
You both look a lot more comfortable with the ac. 👍
good to see your quick response air con crew were up to the job .. watching the lengths you folk are going to to achieve your dream accomodation for hopefully the foreseeable adventures . With technology moving ahead at alarming speed . I have every confidence in your ability to choose and install quality equipment and products incorporated into UMA,S refit ./ renovate .
Air charcoal filter panels you can cut and then tape might help
Uma will be like my 350yr old axe, In it's life all it needed was 5 new handles and 3 new heads ... But well worth it!! Do you have an approximate splash date in mind? .... Stay Safe & Fair Winds!! ☘
Really try a sunshade. It ‘s old school but it really works and makes sure the inner and outer parts of the boat are a more even temp.
It’s a Super expensive thing to do here. Because you can’t build your own and have to go with the shipyards contractor.
If you need more cooking than the AC cab provide I’ve had a lot of success w sprinklers on the roof of shipping containers for cooling. Drainage obviously an issue but works amazingly well
14:31 have you guys looked into the helmet respirators with the belt pack like Evan & Katelyn channel?
Suspend a tarp over the boat to keep the direct sunlight off of your hull. That should greatly help your A/C unit in keep the boat cool.
Again as you guys were wetting out the doe you didn’t have enough resin with the light you could see dry spots much better then the other side but still the balsa is going to suck out the resin from the glass
You should pre wet the fiberglass sheets before putting on, get less air bubbles
The air conditioning has already been pressure tested with refrigerant gas and you only have to open the tap on the unit.
Kika, they do make a smaller version of that mask specifically for women, you have a mens size mask, I have the same one.
@SailingUma Air bubbles caused because you are glassing in the morning. Air in the balsa is warming and expanding through the day after you seal the surface with resin. If you glassed in the evening when the air in the wood is already warm but then cools, it will suck the resin into the wood.
You should have done this refit in the UK - some of us still have our central heating kicking on at night!
Nah. We've been in the UK in the winter. Never again!!!! Besides Sardinia is beautiful! At least we can venture off on the weekends and enjoy the sunshine ;)
apologies if my sarcasm hasn't come across.
The split units that I have purchased come pre-charged, I am surprised that this unit was not. Once fired up, you should be able to hang meat in there.
Wouldn't that make installation a nightmare, or are there means to connect and disconnect the hoses without losing the charge?
I installed a pre-charged unit from “Mr. Cool” in my shed last fall. Quick and easy. Now I have climate-controlled storage for all the cordless yard tools and electric bikes.
@@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017No. they’re quick-connect fittings (with threaded locking rings) with valves on either side of the connections. Once you’ve put them together, you open the valves and you’re ready to go.
This is most likely an EU thing. I've installed two mini split units similar to the one they put in the boat, and both came charged with freon. I live in the United States.
Split systems here in Australia need to be purged and charged as well.
Great call on the new mask. May God bless both of you.
Wow. Dan can walk on water. Good episode.
... if you already have the mini split... maybe you could hack it into having a seawater heat exchanger instead of an air cooled coil. I always want to see what sort of hyperspecific applications a cheap mini split could be configured into. I feel like there's so much potential for them.
14:40 3M sells their respirator mask in different sizes but it can be problematic to find those different sizes in-stock locally. If the mask is riding up and blocking your vision then that means its not getting a good seal around your nose and is too large. 3M color codes their mask sizes and the mask in the vid is a Medium which would probably fit Dan just fine(3M claims that size fits 80% of all people) but you need to look for the same mask in a light grey color(the part that seals around the face) which is the small size.
Another option is to go a Powered Air Respirator System, which seals against the neck.
Hey you might have a 3m rep in your area 3m are really good for small sizes if you reach out to them. they can't offer certain things so widely as 95% of customers are in a narrow size range, but me and my big head got a mask from them during covid and I bet they might be keen to for you to advertise their size support.
Dan put your saftey glasses on!!!! oh i wish your episodes longer
that was satisfying, nice work problem solving
Flippin’ ek guys! Glasswork in an oven. KUDOS!
We only ever laminated later in the day with falling temperatures. You nearly always get air bubbles when the temps are rising...I don´t know the exact science
but falling temp lamination always worked...or air-con!
Kind of dumb thinking here but does it make sense to put a tarp-tent over the deck to keep direct sun off and lower the temp so the AC works less hard.