Comparing similar patterns: high neck, drop shoulder sweater
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ย. 2023
- With so many knitting patterns out there, how do you choose which one to purchase/follow? Which details/information should one look for?
This video features an informal step-by-step process and exercise in comparing similar knitting patterns. Three patterns have been selected to compare:
1. PetiteKnit Wednesday Sweater
2. Caidree Harlow Sweater
3. My Favourite Things Knitwear Sweater No 11 light
I'm wearing the Wednesday sweater knit up in Noro Silk Garden Solo in the colour 1-Omitama.
Instagram: stringthingsbymel
Ravelry: MelissaLu
Link to Ravelry bundle of 3 patterns referenced:
ravel.me/MelissaLu/dsc - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I enjoyed hanging out with you tonight! Also I tested the Harlow pattern and it does utilize short rows. It has also has a longer back hem than front hem ❤ 19:16
❤ Thanks so much for watching and sharing that info - much appreciated!
I like how you compared the sweaters. And I think it’s great that you point out both sides of size inclusivity.
Thank you- I really believe size inclusivity needs to be on both ends of the spectrum because as a very small person, I can tell you that I usually end up having to do kids sweaters so I’m not drowning in my clothes, but they don’t take into account the fact that I have a bust, etc of an adult. It’s so annoying!
I hear ya! In college I was purchasing sweaters from H&M kids section but the armhole and yoke depth would be off, but buying a women's size would be too big (when I didn't want an oversized look).
I do enjoy oversized fit but sometimes I want something fitted - I would love to be able to add more negative ease garments to my wardrobe too.
I like your comment about body inclusivity in patterns. I'm larger than the "normal" pattern ranges and seeing numbers that reflect my size validates that folks with my body size do exist! Same goes for size smaller than "normal". I don't think having numbers that represent someone's actual body measurement is encouraging people to lose weight.
Thank you! Yes, validation is how I felt after reading Craft Yarn Council's body size chart. Considering how global/international knitting is, body sizes everywhere should be considered.
Thank you so much for sharing your insights. I find it quite unfair when I come across videos that say a pattern is size inclusive but it’s tipping towards one side of the scale (usually larger sizes) and smaller sizes are left behind. Lovely video✨ Sending love from Kamloops, BC! 🩷
Thanks so much for watching! I have felt the same way. I think that gives me an idea for a future video 😉
Thank you for your work! So interesting and pointing out the details! 🙌
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching!
I like this type of content! I hope you do more of these
I finally heard someone speaking of size inclusivity on the smaller sizes! I am struggling with all of these patterns simply because they are way too large.
Also, you are right; there seems to be a gap in terms of sizes for teenagers. Most children patterns stop at age 10 or 12!
You have such great, informative, original video ideas! ❤
Thank you so much!
Love this. Thank you. Very informative.
regarding your comment on different ease for different size I personnaly like when the designer mentions this. If ease if calculated for bust size and one has a smaller body and hips measurement the same ease will proportionally look way to big
I agree that it should be mentioned by the designer if ease is calculated differently between sizes. And this ease, I mean DESIGN ease, not functional/wearing ease; the amount of ease which refers to the style, not fit. I was thinking it could be tricky to pick a size if you're in between the two design eases on sweater no. 11 for example. I understand ease/sizing is an important issue and it's something I won't be able to address properly in the comments 😅 (and probably not in a single video).
I appreciate everyone engaging and sharing their thoughts!
Thank you for this informative episode😊
Hey Mel, great video. Regarding size inclusivity measurements, they’re the same: the pattern must accommodate chest sizes 30-60 inches (80-150 cm, due to rounding during grading) after considering ease. So, for example, if the max ease in a pattern is 20 cm and the largest size finished garment size isn’t at least 170 cm, it’s technically not size inclusive.
I definitely agree that all sizes offered should reach both the minimum and maximum ease ranges. We all have fit preferences, and we should have the option to choose 🧡
Edit: Small addition-Don’t be afraid to reach out to designers to ask for extended sizes. As a man with a small chest circumference, I have to do this often, and you’d be surprised how many designers will say yes and grade the pattern for your size. Most only ask for feedback since they treat it as a test knit without a deadline 😊
Hello! Thanks so much for confirming the chest sizes.
I hadn't really thought to reach out to ask for a smaller size. Perhaps I didn't want to be told "No" but it wouldn't hurt to try right?!
Thanks so much for your thoughts!
For your US audience really appreciate how you give both centimeters and inches measurements
Thanks so much for your helpful comparison on the patterns--a knitters dilemma! I do think we forget that size inclusivity runs a spectrum and your point about the gap between young bodies/growing bodies/mature bodies is an important point in sizing. It remains such an issue, and adds to body dysmorphia if you don't feel represented (I know, going down a rabbit hole here). Thanks again!
You're welcome!
Rabbit holes can be good! They make us think, evaluate, etc. I was such a skinny girl when I was a teenager, always jealous of the fuller figured friends who could shop in the womens dept. I'm thankful now I don't have a terrible time finding clothes. I would have definitely appreciated more clothing options in my size back then. There still needs to be more acknowledgement that some teenagers, men and women have small bodies.
Thanks for watching!
Super informative, thank you for your research!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching.
Thanks Mel! I’m just about to start a drop shoulder sweater but haven’t chosen my pattern yet. This was very helpful. I’m going to stripe it colour block style so I thought a drop shoulder would suit the line of the stripes better. I’m looking at a pattern by Ozetta in dk but I will check out Sweater No 11 light too.
Thanks for watching! I agree, I think a drop shoulder would showcase stripes very nicely!
I’m neither a designer nor an experienced knitter, but I have heard in other podcasts that one reason for the difference in positive ease in the larger sizes has to do with where the drop shoulder hits on the upper arm. I don’t believe the designer is dictating anything about preference, but rather how the design should fit.
Thank you, I'll take a look into that!
Mel, I always enjoy your podcasts but I found this one to be very informative. I'm not really a detail person when it comes to clothing so other than the yarn, needles and buzz words regarding the construction I haven't given much thought into the 'deeper dive'. Thanks for sharing, it definitely will help me in the future. I'm thinking about a basic cardigan after my current sweater is complete, and plan on applying what I learned from watching your podcast in my pattern selection.
So glad to hear! Thanks so much for watching!
The Harlow sweater does have short rows in the shoulder construction and also the back ribbing is recommended to be knitted longer than the front but not by much ☺️ I have just finished one in the last month and highly recommend the pattern ❤️
Good to know! Thanks for sharing!
I'm super curious as to whether knitwear designers have thought of doing an amount of ease that's proportional to the size. Just thinking that 8" of positive ease on a 30" bust is a 26% increase in circumference but on a 60" bust would be 13%.
First, I love the yarn you used for your Wednesday sweater! So pretty! :D
I love comparing patterns! I love looking at the photos and finding all the little details that make them different. I also agree with your size inclusive comment, that sizes should also go further down. I am a small and if a pattern has a ton of ease there is rarely an option of being able to knit a smaller one for less ease. I am not a tiny person or at an unhealthy weight, I just have tiny boobs and don't want to swim in my clothing. lol
Thank you! Comparing patterns is a lot of fun!
I feel the exact same about fit. It's silly, but wearing a push up bra helps me fit some tops better because I also have tiny boobs 😂🙈 Would be nice to have some morr patterns made for smaller circumferences so I can wear a regular bra!
Great comparison. Of couse, size inclusivity has t go both ways. I've noticed it doesn't too because I tend to need to choose XS and I am hardly a really small person. Also, it's hard if you are on the lower end and it's a design with tons of ease. I'm not a fan of the whole oversized thing - at least not to excess. But if you are already having to knit the smallest one -- you have no options to, say, choose a size under your size, because you want less ease. Anyway, that's first. Second, the sweater you are wearing (your Wednesday) is just gorgeous. You do fine work and match yarn to projects (to you!) so well. And third, how about a comparison of wrap sweaters -- the Levitate, the one from My Favorite Things, and another? Your Levitate looks great on you, but I'm always a little put off when I look at the pattern because it's intended to have so much ease. I don't think yours does? Or does it? anyway, keep up the great content!
I agree with your first point! I am a skinny person, but at the same time not a small person because of my height.
I knit size XS of the Levitate Wrap and mine ended up having a circumference 7 cm smaller and length 2.5 cm shorter. I have ~20 cm positive ease at the bust, but it may not seem like that because of the wrap-closure. I ended up knitting tighter than my gauge swatch, but it worked out quite well for me.
I was also thrown off by the sample photos and after having finished mine, I wonder if the model is wearing one that is one or even 2 sizes larger than recommended?
Thanks so much for watching and the video idea!
Long time viewer, first time commenter here! I have a 30" bust, so I'm often at the bottom of the size range as well. A lot of Scandinavian designers (PetiteKnit and My Favourite Things) are both small busted and design patterns that only look good with lots of positive ease: drop shoulders or yoke sweaters with too little ease end up looking very bizarre in my experience. Their design vision doesn't fit people who want less ease, since they would wear the bottom of their own size range. Lily Kate France, Tori Yu, and Audrey Borrego all design sweaters that have less recommended ease but still look good.
Hello! Thanks so much for supporting my channel!
I agree, there are certain styles that look better with more ease. I feel like I have a like/dislike relationship with PetiteKnit and MFTK - I like their designs, but I want a little less ease. This is why I think I'm considering drafting patterns for myself next year.
I will definitely check out those designers you mentioned. Thank you!
@illusion1528 @@stringthingsbymel I think two things flow into their design: The Danish style, or the Nordic way of dressing. And they both have a small bust, but wide shoulders, or shoulders that allow the sweater to fall loosely.
It's quite difficult to design a sweater for every type. I think you probably have to look for a designer who suits your own type, because we designers design for ourselves and only secondarily for everyone. It's not like the fashion industry.
Thanks for the great podcast Mel, I've only just discovered you. Greetings from Hamburg / Germany Claudia
Just catching your video as I’m looking for videos like this. It’s hard to pick the perfect garment to make. You may want to watch the start of the grocery girls video (Jan 25) to catch up on the size inclusive discussion- which was very good.
Thanks, that was an excellent recommendation. I very much, felt the same as Jodi when she said "strikes a bit of a nerve". I too, didn't know anything about proportional ease when I made this video and didn't realize my remark could spark such feelings/opinions. I'm grateful for this community to help each other in their knitting journeys.
Sweater No.11 does have short rows in the sleeve caps after picking up the sleeves.
Ah good to know! I had not even considered short rows in the sleeve caps. Thanks so much for sharing!
This is amazing content, thank you so much! BTW a designer that does more tailored fit suitable for slim ladies is Hinterm Stein. Her designs look like they fit nicely at the xs /small end of the range
Thanks for the info! I will take a look at that designer.
Love this! So useful! Can I ask how skeins of the silk noro you used?
Thank you!
I used 10 skeins of Noro for my sweater.
Would love to see you compare the Mia Sweater (Cheryl Mokhtari), Mellow Mood Sweater (Julia Piro), and Sweater #9 (MFTK). I believe there is a 4th one that is similar but I cant think of it right now.
Great idea! I will definitely note these patterns for a future video.
Thanks!
I'm glad I followed Jingyi's recommendation ! This video is very interesting and helpful 🥰 ! Thank you very much ! Your sound is very good so it makes it more pleasant to listen to ! May I ask you what gear do you use for filming ?
So happy to hear you enjoyed this! I recently purchased a new microphone so the good sound is just in the last few videos. The brand is "ZealSound" and was purchased from Amazon. For video I use a Canon G7x ii.
Thanks so much for watching!
@@stringthingsbymel Thank you !
as a smaller person, there is no way I want the same amount of ease as an average sized person. Ease should vary depending on body size (in addition to taste).
I agree that one's taste will affect the amount of ease desired. However, I see it as a misconception to think all small bodies want less ease or vice versa.
A good design should result in the same fit regardless of size made. If ease is the same across sizes, then the increase from size to size is the same and it makes it easier to choose which one to make. This is made even easier when designers offer many sizes within a given range.
@@stringthingsbymel I understand what you are saying, however, I still disagree. The ease must be proportionate to the size. If every size has 5 inches of ease, it is not proportionate for all sizes. Grading is proportionate, therefore ease should be too.
How about inclusiveness in the other dimensions ...
How to change a tapered sleeve, while making it 5 cm longer. Or when you have a smaller bust compared to your upper arms than the pattern supposes.
Sizes actually need to be matrices instead of just linear in one dimension, we are pears, hourglasses, cylinders, apples, long arms, short arms, long bodies, short bodies, broad shoulders, narrow sholders ... there are so many degrees of freedom.
And socks? Why does anyone call sizes kids-ladies-gents, like all kids-women-men have the same size feet or hands?
Or hatsizes ...
Somehow it is all reduced to bust size?
I am not sure why pattern sizing seems to only be advertised in bust measurements, but I agree, we are more than that.
There are some designers who offer advice in their patterns for some adjustments (ie. Aimee Sher, Lydia Morrow, I'm sure there's more), however I can imagine this can get complicated to convey in a written pattern especially if the garment has lacework, colourwork, cables, etc - anything that has stitch repeats.
Have you tried any made-to-measure knitting patterns? I'm curious how many adjustments they allow one to make.
@@stringthingsbymel I have invented my own patterns a lot the last years, using gauge and Math, measuring my body, I like looking at things and try to get how they were made, or how I could make something similar, but right now I feel like relaxing with patterns while also learning new ways to shape shoulders and necklines, but no I have not used "designing descriptions", or real made to measure patterns.
I have used a sock pattern that handled width and length separately, once.
With store bought clothes I am a size M. But with knitting patterns I am a size 2XL 🥲 I don’t know where these huge differences come from, but maybe it is better not to use s, m, l etc, but rather the numbers. I dunno 🙈
I agree, size labels may not be the best and can make things confusing. Numbers or letters would be better.