Hey Matt, Not sure if you've already considered or thought of this, but if you insulate with the rigid foam, you're going to have massive amounts of squeaking against the metal and foam, maybe consider a Barrier between the two materials. Just a thought I drove semi for years, nothing more annoying than constant squeaking.
My grandparents had that exact Chinook. My Granddad was a WW II vet that loved his adventures. He loved the Chinook and I remember lots of amazing memories that the family shared in that little RV. He was a Machinist by trade and a tinkerer at heart and he would have loved this build. Thanks so much for sharing this with us!!!
Don't double vapor barrier the insulation you will trap moisture in that cavity. You need one side to remain cold and one side to remain heated. Therefore you will also want some strategic drain holes in your lowest guard layer to allow moisture to weep out with air pressure. Make sure to fill crevices of rigid with something. It will fit right but not perfect. Use foam rod
I've done two camper builds from scratch and my suggestion is to forget any type of vapor barriers. Moisture will always find a way in, and you want it to be able to escape. Same goes for walls, breathable is better. Composite is king and will always perform better then anything you can fabricate because of its unmatched thermal bridging properties. Aluminum will sweat under your floor, nothing you can do about it no matter how well insulated it is. Don't fight with physics, go with a composite floor if it's in your budget it will outperform everything and be easier to install.
I agree, I have done a glass, epoxy marine ply, glass sandwich with a cork floor. I don't think he gets why they used the materials in the Chinook in the first place or why 25mm box aluminium wasn't used in the 70's?
@@fraserwright9482 It's almost like the engineers knew what they were doing and it lasted as long as it did for a reason. Why not recreate EXACTLY what they did.
If you're keeping the stock axles, I'd recommend bracing the knuckles to the housing. A few kits are available but they're pretty easy to fab yourself. It's a cheaper, lighter way of strengthening the weakest part of the stock Toyota axles without fulling boxing them. Cheers folks, this is a great build!
Definitely do a composite floor, and even more so since the rest of the body is fiberglass. There are a lot of companies spread out across the US and Canada that can supply these panels, and they can custom make them for not much more so that the floor is all a single continuous piece. Some of these panels are good for an outrageous amount of weight, and come in under 2lbs/sqft. If you are worried about point loads, there are many products (including Sika 251) that can be used to bond aluminum plates underneath to spread the load of the body mounts. I redid the roof of my camper and really wish I made a custom roof from panels instead of reinsulating mine.
Wow you two made a heck of a mess😊 This is such a cool premise for a TH-cam channel, build go adventuring come back rebuild then go adventuring again!!!
Looking good! Talking about your grandfather and reasons/motivations definitely resonates with me. My grandfather was an engineer as well and there wasn’t much that he didn’t build or re engineer and build himself!
Started watching your channel b/c of the cool travels, but now totally hooked on the rebuild. I have an '81 popup camper that we're considering retrobuilding, and it's going to be a very similar job to what you're doing. Very cool - keep it up!
Just an idea for your floor. Layout your plywood subflloor on the ground. Place your Alum frame on top with a few 3/8 pins to raise it off the plywood. Then spray foam and skip the rigid. Will give both your vapour and your insulation, plus give you a thermal break between the frame and the floor
Matt, I built a rig from scratch. Had no idea what I was doing. But I have a small suggestion. After you build the aluminum box frame. Drill some holes and fill the tubes with Right Stuff spray foam to minimize thermal bridging. The aluminum frame will leave cold spots between the foam insulation. If that makes sense.
That was my concern as well. I'd add another inch or two of xps or something on top of that aluminum. I'd just make the roof pop up way higher if height is a concern... Or route the coolant through copper pipes in the floor and walls 😁🤙
Why have box frames at all? He has a fibreglass wall structure already there. It would be better to make a composite floor with pads glassed in outside of the body. Look at what the boat building industry does in this situation?
@fraserwright9482 I don't understand the last question, but I agree that the aluminum frame is unnecessary. The fiberglass bodies are supposed to twist and "give" as the chassis twists and tweaks. If the truck frame is twisting too much, maybe stiffen up the rear by welding in boxes steel connecting both frame rails with one another. Tinkerer's Adventure talks about this in his video about front and rear sway bars. If the truck frame is stiffened up, then the focus can shift to just sealing up and insulating that camper. If he really insists on making a new, stiffer floor, maybe mold a ribbed fiberglass cross-pattern into it or something.. I still vote for thick XPS on the floor, and spray foam the rest. Also, there are methods of making ultralight, rigid camper storage out of foam board Insulation, PVC vinyl mesh, and often a paper maché outer layer. If they constructed the entire interior this way, and built the storage and any partitions directly into the walls with foam board Insulation, I imagine it would seriously reinforce the whole camper body while staying as lightweight as possible AND insulating quite a bit. Checkout the NØMAD channel here on TH-cam. Dude built out his whole rig with foam and made it look legit AF th-cam.com/video/qWkTqKjxKNg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=priwd1j3-lOYlrLy
I was just pointing out that in a fibreglass boat you don't need an aluminium floor frame, you just glass over foam or a marine ply. He could also just make the pads that are on the chassis broader or more of them. The great Canadian hockey puck springs to mind 😂 as a way to act as a barrier between the camper and the frame. I agree the Nømad TH-camr illustrated it very well.
I'm so glad you're doing this build!!! Your my favourite adventure/overlanding channel and I'm in the process of planning a similar build. Things I'm planning on doing which may be beneficial, a Hydronic heating system that also ties into the engine coolant loop both for pre warming the engine in really cold weather and to use the excess heat in the engine to warm the living space and hot water while I drive to save a but of fuel and extend the range. Good solar setup with induction hobs for cooking, saves having to find gas in remote places and with addition of a dc to dc charge controller the batteries can be topped up from the engine when solar isn't sufficient. Small ac unit to keep it cool and help with humidity Just some things I'm including on the defender to make it next level. 😊 Keep up the good work guys!!!! Your channel and videos are awesome!!
Something to think about. The honeycomb material in the walls and floor may have been used to add structure and rigidity rather than insulation. I may be wrong about your camper but my dad worked in aerospace his whole career and he worked with honeycomb materials that were used in planes like the B2 bomber because its super strong and light.
Yes I get the feeling people follow a path with material choice with a bullish head. Metal fabricators make everything out of steel, wood workers are all for making solid wood everything. But there are other materials and the honeycomb cardboard to hold the large open panel structurally.
My American Road camper was built by StarCraft; the first aerodynamic camper, using Ford's aero tunnels, it was a very advanced technically built unit. Able to hold 28 men on the roof. Full fiberglass, with marine plywood. No honeycomb but they used something new for the day in 1971-73, spray foam.. and wood stringers.. camper weighs 2800 lbs empty. I love it but, it's not for the light at heart.. love your channel, think light, but strong, biggest challenge
Love to share our sub-floor on our Chinook build. Coming up with ideas and fabricating them just from your thoughts is a fun process. We did a steel subframe with rubber mounts and yes it is heavier but we can also hang slides for storage underneath is the our plan. Cheers to Chinook builds.
Greetings from the soggy south Okanagan. As mentioned below, my information could be dated, but some of the Canadian RV manufacturers would have a welded aluminum frame, then insert foam insulation into the areas between the framing and use a big press and polyurethane glue to laminate up the panels. It keeps it light and is very strong for the weight. Good luck on the build.
epic mission on the rebuild, nothing beats getting it done the way you actually want it though - kudos to Stacey for getting amongst it and helping out, ya got a top notch chicky babe brother.... in'lakech both of you'
I’m not a camper builder, but an aluminum boat owner. Lots of info out there rebuilding boats. Be careful of the type of wood. Some will react with aluminum. I would look at marine products for the build.
If your budget allows, marine plywood throughout would be a good choice. 5/16 and 3/8 are super light and ridged. You can also source MDO plywood, Super strong and durable but a little heavier.
1.5 - 2 foot frame extension !!!! i guess my 2.0 build by American Thanksgiving isn't that far off 😂.PS: talk to Jarrod#$%^%$#$%Tocci about anything Van build ( a TH-camr)
Lol you already know you have to take the 80 Hilux wheeling ;) Cant wait to see it. So stoked for build number 2 This thing is Going to be a legendary unit for decades to come!
Watch some fourwheelcamper videos or go look at one of their dealers to get floor and roof idea of sheets of aluminum and welding. Pretty similar to your wants. Good content keep it up 🤟🏽
One heck of an ambitious project, you have your work cut out for you. Demolition is the easy part. Thinking it would have been nice if you had a laser scanner and solid model software to design your dream camper, easier to iterate a design then with metal, wood and fibreglass. Have fun, great adventures await.
YEEEES Paul from FAB RATS!!!! Would of been awesome to have a 3D camera that you could of scanned when you had it empty so you could downloaded it and played with the program and build it on your computer before jumping into it
It's always interesting to take something apart that you thought you knew end-to-end. There are always so many discoveries. Once you get her back together, she'll have no secrets. You really do need to wheel the chassis, even if you have to put some cardboard in the back to stay warm.
In regard to sealing the new floor structure with a vapor barrier on both sides, beware! When you think things are sealed, moisture will find a way in but it won’t find a way out. Keeping it so it can breathe is a safer way of going. An option would be to build the structure and fully spray bedliner it (not just the rattle can type).
Invest in antiseize for the steel and aluminum contact to minimize aluminum corrosion by touch steel and if the two touching you can use duck tape with great results so if your gonna lay the aluminum to the frame and your floor frame tape it with gorilla tape this knowledge is coming from semi trailers
WOW Thats is a strange sight the chanook with out a box Maybe a tip for the floor I am working on my M.A.N KAT I built the box myself from Aluminum And for the floor I used insulad aluminum plates with 8 millimeter foam in between and glued my wooden plates on top of that which keep out the cold and the heat and save weight You mentioned you wanted to lower the Chanook a bit Would you consider building a hard top on the box Or are you going to rebuild it back to original condition Have FUN and be SAFE
You're only a little fiberglass work away from making that camper wider and covering the back tires. Move living space, less dirt. You got to re-do the canvas anyways. Could also make the pop top raise a little higher.
Dude you’re gonna need an LS!! Totally kidding I can’t wait to see what motor you guys pick. Check out The Everlanders they built a camper with some expensive but super cool and strong honeycomb material of some kind. You guys are fukkin awesome!! Good luck!
I'm also lowering the floor in my chinook! I'm building my metal frame, but im notching the mounting locations to "skirt" the frame mounts. So it won't have a 1" tube above the frame mount. It will only have .25" or one tubing wall thickness, if that makes any sense? Then, 3/4 marine ply on top of the grid frame.
No doubt that Landcuriser 2.0 is going to be interesting. Figure you you just give interior a makeover then get back on the road. Then again renavations take time.
loving the content, I have a sun raider i’m renovating right now! Quick question what camera do you use? I love the colors and aesthetic in your videos.
I would put accessible "plugs" in the wood top and then attach the body mounts through the aluminum/steel frame (the one under the plywood). That way you have accessibility to the body mounts and don't have to take the whole plywood floor out to get to the top nut/washer.
I would make the floor from fibreglass/foam or marine ply/fibreglass sandwich and bond pads into the fibreglass that have bolts sticking out. I would then have the frame mounts in multiple places instead of pressure points. This makes the floor sealed from water/dust and vibration. The aluminium will sweat in cold/humid conditions and because it's a different material.
I would avoid the aluminium box section, you get thermal issues (cold floor) as aluminium is thermally very low R rating plus its a waste of space. You will get a better result making a fibreglass and composite sandwich be that ply/foam and then fibreglass again as its how boats and RVs are made. I have an Avion truck camper and although I love the look of the alloy airstreamesq style. I am building a wood/foam core with fibreglass and bonding the cab over and floor into a sandwich. The outer alloy shell is just sitting on a XPS foam shell that has fibreglass layer. I have pvc piping inside the foam skeleton for electric, plumbing etc. The interior is 3mm walnut wood veneer steam bent that is tying the inside shell to the outer one. Floor is cork
For sure, the honeycomb center and glued outer panels keep the panels rigid. Newer RV's with the polyurethane glued panels onto aluminum frames are what's done now - or was in 2010 when I still had contacts in the Canadian RV manufacturing industry.
Offroading, and travelling the world, you might find steel more durable than aluminum for the frame of your camper. It bends and returns to shape. Aluminum just fatigues and fails. With enough of them on the road these days, I think we are gonna start seeing more of these aluminum frame offroad camper shells failing.
Composite is definitely a way to go. A suggestion for more head room is to just lower the floor where you stand inside the Chinook between the frame rails of the truck. Or raise the roof of the Chinook. A friend and I lowered the middle of the floor in his motorhome and gained 4inches of head room inside. Hopefully it makes sense what im saying.
I agree, I have an Avion truck camper and I made the floor/shell out of fibreglass ply and foam composite sandwich. It's water proof, dust proof and has a cork floor. I would also install the old Toyota plastic fender liners as well. Having mud/salt in places not a good idea.
я снова вас вижу, Спасибо Путину и Трампу. Точек крепления кузова кемпера к раме должно быть Три!!! и без вариантов только три . иначе при вывешивании колеса скручивание рамы шасси разрушит кемпер молодцы
Actually I get it, you lived in this thing for 1.5 years, it's not more crazy then someone upgrading their home. You find things that you don't like, or things that could be better, or just not very well designed. You guys do you, take that any way you like. 😂😂
FabRats does FabRats. Their quote however is not accurate. They may do it right because they do it twice than a month later they do it again and again and again. So hopefully if you want it pro than actually implement real engineering principles.
1KD-FTV because it it's easier to source, but for this rig, a 2GD-FTV would keep it honest! I do see a 1 or 2UZ on a pallet at the end of the video though!
The honeycomb carboard stuff isn't "insulation", it's for structure.
Hey Matt, Not sure if you've already considered or thought of this, but if you insulate with the rigid foam, you're going to have massive amounts of squeaking against the metal and foam, maybe consider a Barrier between the two materials. Just a thought I drove semi for years, nothing more annoying than constant squeaking.
My grandparents had that exact Chinook. My Granddad was a WW II vet that loved his adventures. He loved the Chinook and I remember lots of amazing memories that the family shared in that little RV. He was a Machinist by trade and a tinkerer at heart and he would have loved this build. Thanks so much for sharing this with us!!!
Don't double vapor barrier the insulation you will trap moisture in that cavity. You need one side to remain cold and one side to remain heated. Therefore you will also want some strategic drain holes in your lowest guard layer to allow moisture to weep out with air pressure.
Make sure to fill crevices of rigid with something. It will fit right but not perfect. Use foam rod
I've done two camper builds from scratch and my suggestion is to forget any type of vapor barriers. Moisture will always find a way in, and you want it to be able to escape. Same goes for walls, breathable is better. Composite is king and will always perform better then anything you can fabricate because of its unmatched thermal bridging properties. Aluminum will sweat under your floor, nothing you can do about it no matter how well insulated it is. Don't fight with physics, go with a composite floor if it's in your budget it will outperform everything and be easier to install.
Another thing I forgot to mention. The rigid foam will squeek like crazy against the aluminum subframe your thinking about making. Composite is quiet.
I agree, I have done a glass, epoxy marine ply, glass sandwich with a cork floor. I don't think he gets why they used the materials in the Chinook in the first place or why 25mm box aluminium wasn't used in the 70's?
@@fraserwright9482 It's almost like the engineers knew what they were doing and it lasted as long as it did for a reason.
Why not recreate EXACTLY what they did.
If you're keeping the stock axles, I'd recommend bracing the knuckles to the housing. A few kits are available but they're pretty easy to fab yourself. It's a cheaper, lighter way of strengthening the weakest part of the stock Toyota axles without fulling boxing them.
Cheers folks, this is a great build!
+1
couldn't agree more that this is a MUST!
I think the honey comb is not insulation it’s to make the structure solid but at the fraction of the weight.
I'm excited to see your truck project unfold. Be patient, don't cut corners and you'll be proud.
totallz here for that too, excited for the project.
Get a composite panel for the new floor, check out overland adventure truck in WA, Cascadia Composites, very strong and light, no wood to rot.
Definitely do a composite floor, and even more so since the rest of the body is fiberglass. There are a lot of companies spread out across the US and Canada that can supply these panels, and they can custom make them for not much more so that the floor is all a single continuous piece.
Some of these panels are good for an outrageous amount of weight, and come in under 2lbs/sqft. If you are worried about point loads, there are many products (including Sika 251) that can be used to bond aluminum plates underneath to spread the load of the body mounts.
I redid the roof of my camper and really wish I made a custom roof from panels instead of reinsulating mine.
When Sunday is done, she'll be an amazing rig.
Wow you two made a heck of a mess😊
This is such a cool premise for a TH-cam channel, build go adventuring come back rebuild then go adventuring again!!!
Looking good! Talking about your grandfather and reasons/motivations definitely resonates with me. My grandfather was an engineer as well and there wasn’t much that he didn’t build or re engineer and build himself!
Started watching your channel b/c of the cool travels, but now totally hooked on the rebuild. I have an '81 popup camper that we're considering retrobuilding, and it's going to be a very similar job to what you're doing. Very cool - keep it up!
Just an idea for your floor. Layout your plywood subflloor on the ground. Place your Alum frame on top with a few 3/8 pins to raise it off the plywood. Then spray foam and skip the rigid. Will give both your vapour and your insulation, plus give you a thermal break between the frame and the floor
Matt, I built a rig from scratch. Had no idea what I was doing. But I have a small suggestion. After you build the aluminum box frame. Drill some holes and fill the tubes with Right Stuff spray foam to minimize thermal bridging. The aluminum frame will leave cold spots between the foam insulation. If that makes sense.
That was my concern as well. I'd add another inch or two of xps or something on top of that aluminum. I'd just make the roof pop up way higher if height is a concern... Or route the coolant through copper pipes in the floor and walls 😁🤙
Why have box frames at all? He has a fibreglass wall structure already there. It would be better to make a composite floor with pads glassed in outside of the body. Look at what the boat building industry does in this situation?
@fraserwright9482 I don't understand the last question, but I agree that the aluminum frame is unnecessary. The fiberglass bodies are supposed to twist and "give" as the chassis twists and tweaks. If the truck frame is twisting too much, maybe stiffen up the rear by welding in boxes steel connecting both frame rails with one another. Tinkerer's Adventure talks about this in his video about front and rear sway bars. If the truck frame is stiffened up, then the focus can shift to just sealing up and insulating that camper. If he really insists on making a new, stiffer floor, maybe mold a ribbed fiberglass cross-pattern into it or something.. I still vote for thick XPS on the floor, and spray foam the rest.
Also, there are methods of making ultralight, rigid camper storage out of foam board Insulation, PVC vinyl mesh, and often a paper maché outer layer. If they constructed the entire interior this way, and built the storage and any partitions directly into the walls with foam board Insulation, I imagine it would seriously reinforce the whole camper body while staying as lightweight as possible AND insulating quite a bit. Checkout the NØMAD channel here on TH-cam. Dude built out his whole rig with foam and made it look legit AF
th-cam.com/video/qWkTqKjxKNg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=priwd1j3-lOYlrLy
I was just pointing out that in a fibreglass boat you don't need an aluminium floor frame, you just glass over foam or a marine ply. He could also just make the pads that are on the chassis broader or more of them. The great Canadian hockey puck springs to mind 😂 as a way to act as a barrier between the camper and the frame. I agree the Nømad TH-camr illustrated it very well.
@@fraserwright9482 perhaps if there were more points of contact, the flexion or torsion of the chassis would crack the fiberglass apart 🤷
I'm so glad you're doing this build!!! Your my favourite adventure/overlanding channel and I'm in the process of planning a similar build.
Things I'm planning on doing which may be beneficial, a Hydronic heating system that also ties into the engine coolant loop both for pre warming the engine in really cold weather and to use the excess heat in the engine to warm the living space and hot water while I drive to save a but of fuel and extend the range.
Good solar setup with induction hobs for cooking, saves having to find gas in remote places and with addition of a dc to dc charge controller the batteries can be topped up from the engine when solar isn't sufficient.
Small ac unit to keep it cool and help with humidity
Just some things I'm including on the defender to make it next level. 😊
Keep up the good work guys!!!! Your channel and videos are awesome!!
Thursday Night Drop Right On Time! - Much Love From New England! ❤
If you follow Paul and learn from him especially when it comes to suspension work because he absolutely nails it.
Super excited for this build series! Not sure if you did this on your last build but definitely don't forget about the fire extinguisher!
Excited for this rebuild series. Will be supporting the whole way through!
Something to think about. The honeycomb material in the walls and floor may have been used to add structure and rigidity rather than insulation. I may be wrong about your camper but my dad worked in aerospace his whole career and he worked with honeycomb materials that were used in planes like the B2 bomber because its super strong and light.
Yes I get the feeling people follow a path with material choice with a bullish head. Metal fabricators make everything out of steel, wood workers are all for making solid wood everything. But there are other materials and the honeycomb cardboard to hold the large open panel structurally.
My American Road camper was built by StarCraft; the first aerodynamic camper, using Ford's aero tunnels, it was a very advanced technically built unit. Able to hold 28 men on the roof. Full fiberglass, with marine plywood. No honeycomb but they used something new for the day in 1971-73, spray foam.. and wood stringers.. camper weighs 2800 lbs empty. I love it but, it's not for the light at heart.. love your channel, think light, but strong, biggest challenge
Love the shout out to Fab Rats!
Love to share our sub-floor on our Chinook build. Coming up with ideas and fabricating them just from your thoughts is a fun process. We did a steel subframe with rubber mounts and yes it is heavier but we can also hang slides for storage underneath is the our plan. Cheers to Chinook builds.
You guys rock! Can’t wait to see the project progress.
Keep up the good work guys
Just watching this gives me anxiety. That's a daunting amount of work!
You should consider using dibond for surfaces. It’s stronger and lighter than aluminum. And you can probably find surplus sheets for cheap.
Awesome guys can't wait to see
Wow! Just found you guys. 👏 👏 👏 Amazing! Subscribed!!!
This truck is my dream!
im so stoked!!!!
This new series is going to be great. Love this type of videos where you focus on the build then go out and test it on the road haha
Greetings from the soggy south Okanagan. As mentioned below, my information could be dated, but some of the Canadian RV manufacturers would have a welded aluminum frame, then insert foam insulation into the areas between the framing and use a big press and polyurethane glue to laminate up the panels. It keeps it light and is very strong for the weight. Good luck on the build.
Oh boy, I am going to enjoy watching this build!
Love watching the build. Definitely need some bulged fiberglass front fenders.
Holy moly that will be fun to watch.
A real testament to the original fiberglass that you can still use some of it...
Wicked! Stoked to tune into the new Build! 🙌
epic mission on the rebuild, nothing beats getting it done the way you actually want it though - kudos to Stacey for getting amongst it and helping out, ya got a top notch chicky babe brother.... in'lakech both of you'
I’m not a camper builder, but an aluminum boat owner. Lots of info out there rebuilding boats. Be careful of the type of wood. Some will react with aluminum. I would look at marine products for the build.
Would be time to make wheelbase longer, more stable, better departure angle?
❤greetings from soggy Maple Ridge, that honeycomb looks the same as 70/80 s hollow interior house doors
You don’t need a vapor barrier in your floor. Rigid insulation is a vapor barrier. You can fill in the gaps around the sides with spray foam
If your budget allows, marine plywood throughout would be a good choice. 5/16 and 3/8 are super light and ridged. You can also source MDO plywood, Super strong and durable but a little heavier.
1.5 - 2 foot frame extension !!!! i guess my 2.0 build by American Thanksgiving isn't that far off 😂.PS: talk to Jarrod#$%^%$#$%Tocci about anything Van build ( a TH-camr)
love this content, following the build, stoked to see where it goes! also GO WHEELING ALWAYS
Lol you already know you have to take the 80 Hilux wheeling ;) Cant wait to see it. So stoked for build number 2 This thing is Going to be a legendary unit for decades to come!
Watch some fourwheelcamper videos or go look at one of their dealers to get floor and roof idea of sheets of aluminum and welding. Pretty similar to your wants. Good content keep it up 🤟🏽
One heck of an ambitious project, you have your work cut out for you. Demolition is the easy part. Thinking it would have been nice if you had a laser scanner and solid model software to design your dream camper, easier to iterate a design then with metal, wood and fibreglass. Have fun, great adventures await.
You guys are crazy! But I love it! Dare to dream! 🤘🏻
I love the Skull Skates hoodie.❤
YEEEES Paul from FAB RATS!!!! Would of been awesome to have a 3D camera that you could of scanned when you had it empty so you could downloaded it and played with the program and build it on your computer before jumping into it
you want it light as possible for off roading, you do want shear resistance in the floor since frames are flexible!
i don't care who/whats "top" is coming off. i'm watching...🙂
It's always interesting to take something apart that you thought you knew end-to-end. There are always so many discoveries. Once you get her back together, she'll have no secrets. You really do need to wheel the chassis, even if you have to put some cardboard in the back to stay warm.
In regard to sealing the new floor structure with a vapor barrier on both sides, beware! When you think things are sealed, moisture will find a way in but it won’t find a way out. Keeping it so it can breathe is a safer way of going. An option would be to build the structure and fully spray bedliner it (not just the rattle can type).
Invest in antiseize for the steel and aluminum contact to minimize aluminum corrosion by touch steel and if the two touching you can use duck tape with great results so if your gonna lay the aluminum to the frame and your floor frame tape it with gorilla tape this knowledge is coming from semi trailers
Gostei bastante do projeto de vocês.
You most definitely have to take it on a lil wheel for sure 😂
you might consider starboard for the floor. Although expensive it will never rot.
WOW Thats is a strange sight the chanook with out a box
Maybe a tip for the floor
I am working on my M.A.N KAT
I built the box myself from Aluminum
And for the floor I used insulad aluminum plates with 8 millimeter foam in between
and glued my wooden plates on top of that
which keep out the cold and the heat and save weight
You mentioned you wanted to lower the Chanook a bit
Would you consider building a hard top on the box
Or are you going to rebuild it back to original condition
Have FUN and be SAFE
Best intro ever lol
Some neon color on the wheels
Thought it was going to be a total composites derived build. but this is gonna be great!!!
You're only a little fiberglass work away from making that camper wider and covering the back tires. Move living space, less dirt. You got to re-do the canvas anyways. Could also make the pop top raise a little higher.
Dude you’re gonna need an LS!! Totally kidding I can’t wait to see what motor you guys pick. Check out The Everlanders they built a camper with some expensive but super cool and strong honeycomb material of some kind. You guys are fukkin awesome!! Good luck!
I'm also lowering the floor in my chinook! I'm building my metal frame, but im notching the mounting locations to "skirt" the frame mounts. So it won't have a 1" tube above the frame mount. It will only have .25" or one tubing wall thickness, if that makes any sense? Then, 3/4 marine ply on top of the grid frame.
No doubt that Landcuriser 2.0 is going to be interesting. Figure you you just give interior a makeover then get back on the road. Then again renavations take time.
Finally got a flat!
loving the content, I have a sun raider i’m renovating right now! Quick question what camera do you use? I love the colors and aesthetic in your videos.
I would put accessible "plugs" in the wood top and then attach the body mounts through the aluminum/steel frame (the one under the plywood). That way you have accessibility to the body mounts and don't have to take the whole plywood floor out to get to the top nut/washer.
I would make the floor from fibreglass/foam or marine ply/fibreglass sandwich and bond pads into the fibreglass that have bolts sticking out. I would then have the frame mounts in multiple places instead of pressure points. This makes the floor sealed from water/dust and vibration. The aluminium will sweat in cold/humid conditions and because it's a different material.
I would avoid the aluminium box section, you get thermal issues (cold floor) as aluminium is thermally very low R rating plus its a waste of space. You will get a better result making a fibreglass and composite sandwich be that ply/foam and then fibreglass again as its how boats and RVs are made. I have an Avion truck camper and although I love the look of the alloy airstreamesq style. I am building a wood/foam core with fibreglass and bonding the cab over and floor into a sandwich. The outer alloy shell is just sitting on a XPS foam shell that has fibreglass layer. I have pvc piping inside the foam skeleton for electric, plumbing etc. The interior is 3mm walnut wood veneer steam bent that is tying the inside shell to the outer one. Floor is cork
I'm literally doing this to my Sunrader right now and trying to think out the aluminum reinforcement for the 4x4 conversion.
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Are you gonna try for an AC of some sort? My '77 had some aftermarket thing under the glove box but it never worked and I needed it not where I was.
Best to do an entire hard-shell if you can keep the height/weight to a minimum
Just fiberglass over coosa board like they do in boats.....strong and all composite so no water troubles
The honeycomb provides a lot of structure when it is fully glued to the inner and outer walls. You wouldn’t think it does much, but it does.
This is exactly what I was thinking as well. Air can also be an ok insulator when sandwiched between to pieces of wood like that too.
For sure, the honeycomb center and glued outer panels keep the panels rigid. Newer RV's with the polyurethane glued panels onto aluminum frames are what's done now - or was in 2010 when I still had contacts in the Canadian RV manufacturing industry.
Spray Foam is better
Should watch the "The Outfit" build. You might change your mind on the top. Or give you more ideas. Make it a six wheeler😅 Sema next year 2025?
We are just finishing our third van , your floor plan sounds good , but you really don't need the plastic just use Tuc tape .... eh
Fuck Yes!
Cummins 2.8 L motor would be a good swap
How is back clearance, kind of long rear overhang? let us know?
Offroading, and travelling the world, you might find steel more durable than aluminum for the frame of your camper. It bends and returns to shape. Aluminum just fatigues and fails.
With enough of them on the road these days, I think we are gonna start seeing more of these aluminum frame offroad camper shells failing.
Composite is definitely a way to go. A suggestion for more head room is to just lower the floor where you stand inside the Chinook between the frame rails of the truck. Or raise the roof of the Chinook. A friend and I lowered the middle of the floor in his motorhome and gained 4inches of head room inside. Hopefully it makes sense what im saying.
I agree, I have an Avion truck camper and I made the floor/shell out of fibreglass ply and foam composite sandwich. It's water proof, dust proof and has a cork floor. I would also install the old Toyota plastic fender liners as well. Having mud/salt in places not a good idea.
I've heard marine plywood doesn't react well with aluminum. Be better of tovseal regular plywood with oil based paint or epoxybit.
"we do it nice because we do it twice"
я снова вас вижу, Спасибо Путину и Трампу. Точек крепления кузова кемпера к раме должно быть Три!!! и без вариантов только три . иначе при вывешивании колеса скручивание рамы шасси разрушит кемпер молодцы
Another great video today Good information and content smash the like button you filthy animals
Actually I get it, you lived in this thing for 1.5 years, it's not more crazy then someone upgrading their home. You find things that you don't like, or things that could be better, or just not very well designed. You guys do you, take that any way you like. 😂😂
First!
Said uploaded 9 seconds ago!
FabRats does FabRats. Their quote however is not accurate. They may do it right because they do it twice than a month later they do it again and again and again. So hopefully if you want it pro than actually implement real engineering principles.
2 words...spray foam...just do it
You guys definitely need to take her wheeling without the cabin for science
1HD-FTE
1KD-FTV because it it's easier to source, but for this rig, a 2GD-FTV would keep it honest! I do see a 1 or 2UZ on a pallet at the end of the video though!
Hey guys, from Victoria. Sent ya a message on Instagram about some potential chinook building material!