I don't even fill the power bleeder. Just use air to push down on the brake/clutch reservoir. Just make sure you fill the reservoir and keep an eye on it during the bleeding process. Makes for a much easier, cleaner use of the bleeder.
these things look great im buying one someday or another. I have not yet done a brake fluid job but this seems like the way to go and well worth the money
For some master cylinders that don't have threads in the cap (like the 1986 Toyota Land Cruiser master cylinder), they make a universal adapter cap that uses 2 j-bolts and a chain to wrap under the master cylinder and clamp down to seal. Problem is, it's very tricky to get it to seal in a tight space like in the Land Cruiser master cyl application. In my case, it held air (very slowly leaked at a rate of 1 psi per 3-4 min) but it pissed brake fluid everywhere from the cap when I filled the bleeder and pumped up to bleed. I'll try to dry-bleed using only air, and do it multiple times while refilling the reservoir. Will update back later!
It’s been awhile since I’ve done this… but on a vehicle that has the same reservoir for brake/clutch when bleeding like this does it also replace fluid going to the brakes? Last time I did a brake bleed I had to go to each caliper and bleed them. Or is that still how it has to be done and bleeding from the clutch master cylinder only does the clutch?
Nice video, thanks ! I have one of these that I've used to bleed my brakes and it's worth every penny. Now I'm going to bleed my clutch after putting in a new slave cylinder. You did just bleed your clutch correct? It looks really simple. I've seen other videos where they hook up a vacuum pump to the bleed nipple and more or less "reverse" bleed. I think I would rather give my Motive bleeder a try.
The single deficiency of this otherwise essential tool is the method of connecting the pressure bottle to the different brake fluid reservoir adaptors. In order to screw the brass connectors together, you have to rotate either the pressure bottle or the brake fluid reservoir adaptor. The simple and inexpensive fix is to add an air line quick disconnect fitting from NAPA, Home Depot, or most any parts/hardware store. The added benefit is that the brake fluid (and pressure) is maintained in the pressure bottle when you disconnect from whichever brake fluid reservoir adaptor you are using.
If it leaks (air pressure drops from 10 psi) when you let it sit for a minute or two after connecting it, does that mean the slave/master cylinder is leaking?
+Matthew Mensch Could be or you could have a leak in one of the lines. I would do the procedure a few times just to make sure it's not air in the lines.
Do you have to hold the clutch pedal down to bleed? I got nothing coming out and looks like it's got too much air trapped in there. Mine is 2001 SLK320. Slave cylinder is inside the gearbox and would be a pita to diagnose or replace. Any thought?
Turned out I had to press both clutch and brake pedals to open the passage to the reservoir. Old fluid came out strong stream. Big difference after fix.
AlchemistLair it’s simple. Take out the pressure gauge and put a T-fitting in its place. Screw the pressure gauge in the other end of the T-fitting and hook up a hose to a compressor from the perpendicular outlet to the fitting and run the compressor with the regulator turned to 20psi. Bingo, you’re done.
@@Theknotman1964 so you’re a sad crybaby racist... and you’re too dumb to understand mankind’s ascension of the food chain is due to our ability to develop and manipulate tools.
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't even fill the power bleeder. Just use air to push down on the brake/clutch reservoir. Just make sure you fill the reservoir and keep an eye on it during the bleeding process. Makes for a much easier, cleaner use of the bleeder.
these things look great im buying one someday or another. I have not yet done a brake fluid job but this seems like the way to go and well worth the money
They are lifesavers!
For some master cylinders that don't have threads in the cap (like the 1986 Toyota Land Cruiser master cylinder), they make a universal adapter cap that uses 2 j-bolts and a chain to wrap under the master cylinder and clamp down to seal.
Problem is, it's very tricky to get it to seal in a tight space like in the Land Cruiser master cyl application. In my case, it held air (very slowly leaked at a rate of 1 psi per 3-4 min) but it pissed brake fluid everywhere from the cap when I filled the bleeder and pumped up to bleed.
I'll try to dry-bleed using only air, and do it multiple times while refilling the reservoir. Will update back later!
It’s been awhile since I’ve done this… but on a vehicle that has the same reservoir for brake/clutch when bleeding like this does it also replace fluid going to the brakes? Last time I did a brake bleed I had to go to each caliper and bleed them. Or is that still how it has to be done and bleeding from the clutch master cylinder only does the clutch?
Nice video, thanks ! I have one of these that I've used to bleed my brakes and it's worth every penny. Now I'm going to bleed my clutch after putting in a new slave cylinder. You did just bleed your clutch correct? It looks really simple. I've seen other videos where they hook up a vacuum pump to the bleed nipple and more or less "reverse" bleed. I think I would rather give my Motive bleeder a try.
The single deficiency of this otherwise essential tool is the method of connecting the pressure bottle to the different brake fluid reservoir adaptors. In order to screw the brass connectors together, you have to rotate either the pressure bottle or the brake fluid reservoir adaptor.
The simple and inexpensive fix is to add an air line quick disconnect fitting from NAPA, Home Depot, or most any parts/hardware store. The added benefit is that the brake fluid (and pressure) is maintained in the pressure bottle when you disconnect from whichever brake fluid reservoir adaptor you are using.
I will add one of those for sure. Great tip!
WHERE ARE THE YZ125 VIDEOS, I CANT WAIT ANY LONGER! ITS BEEN TOO LONG!
Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
also basically a need to flush and refill an old 325e that has been sitting out for over 10 years...how much fluid should I use? thanks !
how much teflon tape did you use? thanks man
If it leaks (air pressure drops from 10 psi) when you let it sit for a minute or two after connecting it, does that mean the slave/master cylinder is leaking?
+Matthew Mensch Could be or you could have a leak in one of the lines. I would do the procedure a few times just to make sure it's not air in the lines.
Like the vid but please do the yz 125
Do you have to hold the clutch pedal down to bleed? I got nothing coming out and looks like it's got too much air trapped in there. Mine is 2001 SLK320. Slave cylinder is inside the gearbox and would be a pita to diagnose or replace. Any thought?
Shouldn't need to, this bleeder takes all that type of work out of it. I'm not exactly sure on a Merc
Turned out I had to press both clutch and brake pedals to open the passage to the reservoir. Old fluid came out strong stream. Big difference after fix.
Lee Ken Ahh, good to hear!
Lee Ken would i need to hold the clutch and brake for my e46?
With the old fashion way you'd want to pump them but don't have to with this system.
It would be nice if you could hook up your compressor line to the bleeder tank to get the air pressure you want.
Are you really that lazzzzzzzzzy Fucking Americans anything physical & you always get someone else to do it, namely Mexicans
AlchemistLair it’s simple. Take out the pressure gauge and put a T-fitting in its place. Screw the pressure gauge in the other end of the T-fitting and hook up a hose to a compressor from the perpendicular outlet to the fitting and run the compressor with the regulator turned to 20psi. Bingo, you’re done.
@@Theknotman1964 so you’re a sad crybaby racist... and you’re too dumb to understand mankind’s ascension of the food chain is due to our ability to develop and manipulate tools.
Should you take all of the old fluid out first before putting the new fluid in?
I don't.
yeah bro flush the system
sample text
This comment is like an Easter egg. Bravo.
HA HA Did that with a 7.95$ vacuum pump from Harbour Freight...........Go figure?
Cool!
You sound just like Jason Sudeikis.
Thanks, I think. LOL
tefflon is necessary...i didn't use it, and the brake fluid leaked out!!!!
Yikes!
I almost bought an M3 last year... I want one so bad but I can't afford the maintenance/parts...