I really appreciate that Bill, thank you. The amount of pure truth I got out of this project was thoroughly rewarding, the help the community sent my way was essential to pulling it off. Now I just need some help with the bloody transmission😳 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
If you are tracking regularly this becomes a must have tool. I got the metal cap version for a better fit on the master cylinder. Cut a small hole in the center of the bottom of a trash bag and tape it over the opening of the master cylinder. This makes a nice little reservoir around it and saved me from a huge mess once when I had the cap too lose! For just a quick bleed between track days use the dry method to simplify clean up. Fill the master all the way with brake fluid and pressurize. Bleed the rear brakes and clutch then check the master to make sure you still have plenty of fluid. You may need to refill but this saves you from have to clean out the bleeder and waste another bottle $$$ of fluid. Just keep checking you haven't let the master run low! Trust me you don't want to pump air into the lines!
There’s actually an easier way, even if it doesn’t look as cool. Clear plastic tubing connected to a one way check valve that dumps into a bottle of your choice. Attach tubing to bleeder valve, open bleeder, and start pumping the pedal until you’re happy. Takes up a lot less space in the garage.
@@mc02fly28 can you not access that function on these cars via a scan tool or has Porsche made that function inaccessible without some proprietary tool?
@@michaelw6277 I’m not sure about the 911, but a scan tool will work on most, that’s what I meant by computer. I’ve just gone through it with my Mitsubishi truck, it needs pressure and ignition on to bleed the pump. But you are correct re bottle with fluid in it, I’ve been doing it that way for years till I bit the bullet and bought a pressure bleeder. It’s quicker to do with the pressure bleed I did my 911 full flush in less then 30 mins.
Hello Michael, thank you for taking the time to comment, this comment section has been an education for me. The pedal method is probably the one that comes to mind for most people, those who favor the pressure bleeder attest to the speed of the process. For many people, the neighborhood biennial brake bleeding beer fest need not be rushed, and I agree 🍻. The dude that "Repurposed" this device was bleeding his brakes multiple times per weekend trying to make the most of track time and by the time his girlfriend got bored of going, he was doing it by himself. In those circumstances, you can see the benefit of getting the job over with 😂🤣 . Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Silicon =/= silicone! You’d think a channel with such fine cheesecake on it would know the difference! I’ve gotta get me one of these, as brake fluid changes are a biennial trip to the dealer that clearly isn’t necessary. I just have to get over my aversion to icky fluids.
Hi Finn, I also use a similar tool to bleed brakes and clutch slave cylinder, but for the clutch slave cylinder it is not enough to just open the valve as for the brakes. To completely replace the clutch circuit fluid, the procedure indicated by Porsche is as follows: 1 - Open the bleeder valve 2 - Move pedal extremely slowly to the "Pedal fully depressed" position. When doing so, guide the pedal by hand so that it does not move forward abruptly 3 - Allow the brake fluid to rinse through for 30 seconds 4 - Afterwards, activate complete pedal travel manually very slowly for a further 60 seconds. After about 10 to 15 pedal strokes, leave the pedal in its normal position. Once this filling period has elapsed, check that no more bubbles appear at the bleeder valve. Then close the bleeder valve. You did a great job on this Porsche Maurizio
You are a rockstar for taking the time to share that, Thank you Maurizio 🙌 The procedure with the new device was a real leap of faith, it has been both humbling and educational to see just how many things I can screw up in my attempts to explain things. Hopefully, folks can unravel my fiasco with the help of your instructions👍 I know people reading these comments get as much learning out of them as I do. The company that makes the Brake Bleeder sent me a different model to try (they said mine took an excessive amount of pumps to get to pressure??😂🤣) If I can ever get the hang of this TH-cam thing, this subject can be revisited, these brakes can get bled properly AND I can thank you for your help. Did I mention that you ROCK! 🤘😎
Follow up Question: Wouldn't you want to suck out the old fluid out of the reservoir first, fill it with new fluid, then pump it through? how many containers of fluid did you use?
In this case, the fluid did not need to be replaced or bled as the brakes had recently been overhauled. While removing the old fluid before you start might make the job slightly quicker, it’s not required. Thank you for watching. 🤘😎
Howdy Sir 🤠 the one I bout was the most basic. amzn.to/3Bjde20 Motive has caps for everything under the sun, they can probably tell you definitely. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Loves me my Motive. Another good and cheap fluid that will do well if you change it frequently is ATE Typ 200 - cheaper than Motul and Castrol fancy fluids. I use it in my "light use" track cars and it lasts me a full season, with some periodic quick bleeds of the caliper, not a full flush. You can keep a bottle open for a few months. It lasts >2 years on road cars. One of the cool tools you showed there in the Motive pix is a fluid tester to tell you how much water is in the fluid - I love mine. I often find that the reservoir has higher water levels than the fluid coming out, BTW, so if you're flushing, best to empty the reservoir completely before adding new fluid. I guess the cap is also a leaky point. Fortunately that fluid doesn't have to squish! PS if you want to get into a fight on the internet, tell people to bleed the outer side first, then the inner. Or tell people to bleed the inner side first, then the outer. Nobody agrees on which is "better" 😆
Thank you Mike, people that read these comments will appreciate your insight. The coolant tester picture featured prominently in the video because I subliminally want one, your comment just confirmed by deepest desires 🙌 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Regarding the inner/outer bleeding order thing, would it make no difference as long as all the passages had fresh brake fluid?? Right ??🙃 is this crazy talk?
@@ManinaGarage The issue is how to ensure that you're getting ALL the old fluid out, but yes, if you flush it enough, the order doesn't really matter. I'm sure there are fluid dynamics experts who have weighed in about how the caliper chamber and bridge design of caliper X would influence flow / lead to pockets / whatever. Kind of like doing front vs rear, they're separate circuits anyways so order less relevant. And without cycling ABS module there's still old fluid in there too. You just can't win,😜at least not against the Internet!
@@ManinaGarage you might look at G2 paint on epoxy. I got stickers from a guy on eBay. Just ask to have them made as they can't advertise the brand name 😀 Very satisfying to see shiny calipers!
My experience with the motive power bleeder has not been positive. So far I have only tried the adapters for Ford and all have failed. The adapter fits tight but when pressure is applies the seal fails. Sometimes I can get it to work if I keep the pressure to 10 lbs.
It’s good to get feedback Terry, my only experience was the one you see in the video. Giving motive a call or email may well be worth your while, actual humans will answer 🥳. Best of luck with your projects, thank you for watching 🤘😎
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
Another great video!! Thanks Finn
Te agradezco que te tomes el tiempo de comentar Juan 🙌 Gracias por ver 🤘😎
A must-have tool. They also have adapters to fit other car manufacturers too. Solid build quality. Great seeing another video from you!
Howdy Ed!! It’s a fun device. I felt guilty for being finished so soon? Weird. More coming. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Thank you! 😊 need to do mine
I really appreciate that Bill, thank you. The amount of pure truth I got out of this project was thoroughly rewarding, the help the community sent my way was essential to pulling it off. Now I just need some help with the bloody transmission😳 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
I was just wondering how I was gonna do my brake job, and this pops up. Thanks Finn
Eres genial Juan 🤘 Gracias por mirar 🤓
If you are tracking regularly this becomes a must have tool. I got the metal cap version for a better fit on the master cylinder. Cut a small hole in the center of the bottom of a trash bag and tape it over the opening of the master cylinder. This makes a nice little reservoir around it and saved me from a huge mess once when I had the cap too lose! For just a quick bleed between track days use the dry method to simplify clean up. Fill the master all the way with brake fluid and pressurize. Bleed the rear brakes and clutch then check the master to make sure you still have plenty of fluid. You may need to refill but this saves you from have to clean out the bleeder and waste another bottle $$$ of fluid. Just keep checking you haven't let the master run low! Trust me you don't want to pump air into the lines!
That is some great insight Anthony, I know people will really benefit reading your comment. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
I have this bleeder, it works well. Super job on the video too by the way.
It was weird...the job was finished before it felt like I had even started?? Good Tool. Thank you for watching Clint 🤘😎
There’s actually an easier way, even if it doesn’t look as cool. Clear plastic tubing connected to a one way check valve that dumps into a bottle of your choice. Attach tubing to bleeder valve, open bleeder, and start pumping the pedal until you’re happy. Takes up a lot less space in the garage.
A pressure bleed is often required to purge the ABS system though.
Or a computer linked to the cars OBD port
@@mc02fly28 can you not access that function on these cars via a scan tool or has Porsche made that function inaccessible without some proprietary tool?
@@michaelw6277 I’m not sure about the 911, but a scan tool will work on most, that’s what I meant by computer. I’ve just gone through it with my Mitsubishi truck, it needs pressure and ignition on to bleed the pump. But you are correct re bottle with fluid in it, I’ve been doing it that way for years till I bit the bullet and bought a pressure bleeder. It’s quicker to do with the pressure bleed I did my 911 full flush in less then 30 mins.
Hello Michael, thank you for taking the time to comment, this comment section has been an education for me. The pedal method is probably the one that comes to mind for most people, those who favor the pressure bleeder attest to the speed of the process. For many people, the neighborhood biennial brake bleeding beer fest need not be rushed, and I agree 🍻. The dude that "Repurposed" this device was bleeding his brakes multiple times per weekend trying to make the most of track time and by the time his girlfriend got bored of going, he was doing it by himself. In those circumstances, you can see the benefit of getting the job over with 😂🤣 . Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Silicon =/= silicone! You’d think a channel with such fine cheesecake on it would know the difference! I’ve gotta get me one of these, as brake fluid changes are a biennial trip to the dealer that clearly isn’t necessary. I just have to get over my aversion to icky fluids.
Hi Finn, I also use a similar tool to bleed brakes and clutch slave cylinder, but for the clutch slave cylinder it is not enough to just open the valve as for the brakes.
To completely replace the clutch circuit fluid, the procedure indicated by Porsche is as follows:
1 - Open the bleeder valve
2 - Move pedal extremely slowly to the "Pedal fully depressed" position. When doing so, guide the pedal by hand so that it does not move forward
abruptly
3 - Allow the brake fluid to rinse through for 30 seconds
4 - Afterwards, activate complete pedal travel manually very slowly for a further 60 seconds. After about 10 to 15 pedal strokes, leave the pedal in its
normal position. Once this filling period has elapsed, check that no more bubbles appear at the bleeder valve. Then close the bleeder valve.
You did a great job on this Porsche
Maurizio
You are a rockstar for taking the time to share that, Thank you Maurizio 🙌 The procedure with the new device was a real leap of faith, it has been both humbling and educational to see just how many things I can screw up in my attempts to explain things. Hopefully, folks can unravel my fiasco with the help of your instructions👍 I know people reading these comments get as much learning out of them as I do. The company that makes the Brake Bleeder sent me a different model to try (they said mine took an excessive amount of pumps to get to pressure??😂🤣)
If I can ever get the hang of this TH-cam thing, this subject can be revisited, these brakes can get bled properly AND I can thank you for your help. Did I mention that you ROCK! 🤘😎
Follow up Question: Wouldn't you want to suck out the old fluid out of the reservoir first, fill it with new fluid, then pump it through? how many containers of fluid did you use?
In this case, the fluid did not need to be replaced or bled as the brakes had recently been overhauled. While removing the old fluid before you start might make the job slightly quicker, it’s not required. Thank you for watching. 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage Ahh yes. You did a lot of work. I need to do this in the spring. Still very cold here in Frostbite Falls, MN. thanks! Love the channel.
Good
Thank you SIR 🤘😎
Thanks for this! I need to do this on my '05 Boxster this spring. What cap did you use? Amazon sez this is not a fit for my Boxster.
Howdy Sir 🤠 the one I bout was the most basic. amzn.to/3Bjde20 Motive has caps for everything under the sun, they can probably tell you definitely. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage thank you. Got it
Loves me my Motive. Another good and cheap fluid that will do well if you change it frequently is ATE Typ 200 - cheaper than Motul and Castrol fancy fluids. I use it in my "light use" track cars and it lasts me a full season, with some periodic quick bleeds of the caliper, not a full flush. You can keep a bottle open for a few months. It lasts >2 years on road cars.
One of the cool tools you showed there in the Motive pix is a fluid tester to tell you how much water is in the fluid - I love mine. I often find that the reservoir has higher water levels than the fluid coming out, BTW, so if you're flushing, best to empty the reservoir completely before adding new fluid. I guess the cap is also a leaky point. Fortunately that fluid doesn't have to squish!
PS if you want to get into a fight on the internet, tell people to bleed the outer side first, then the inner. Or tell people to bleed the inner side first, then the outer. Nobody agrees on which is "better" 😆
Thank you Mike, people that read these comments will appreciate your insight. The coolant tester picture featured prominently in the video because I subliminally want one, your comment just confirmed by deepest desires 🙌 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Regarding the inner/outer bleeding order thing, would it make no difference as long as all the passages had fresh brake fluid?? Right ??🙃 is this crazy talk?
@@ManinaGarage The issue is how to ensure that you're getting ALL the old fluid out, but yes, if you flush it enough, the order doesn't really matter. I'm sure there are fluid dynamics experts who have weighed in about how the caliper chamber and bridge design of caliper X would influence flow / lead to pockets / whatever.
Kind of like doing front vs rear, they're separate circuits anyways so order less relevant. And without cycling ABS module there's still old fluid in there too.
You just can't win,😜at least not against the Internet!
@@miketdavies ain’t that the truth 🤣😂 🙌 my you tube experience has helped confirm my desire to never be a politician 😳
project idea: paint the calipers 😀
Painted calipers would be kick ass !
@@ManinaGarage you might look at G2 paint on epoxy. I got stickers from a guy on eBay. Just ask to have them made as they can't advertise the brand name 😀
Very satisfying to see shiny calipers!
@@erolfox thank you 🙏
👍👍👍
Thank you for watching Sally 🤘😎
hey mate, did you give us the total engine rebuild amount?
My experience with the motive power bleeder has not been positive. So far I have only tried the adapters for Ford and all have failed. The adapter fits tight but when pressure is applies the seal fails. Sometimes I can get it to work if I keep the pressure to 10 lbs.
It’s good to get feedback Terry, my only experience was the one you see in the video. Giving motive a call or email may well be worth your while, actual humans will answer 🥳. Best of luck with your projects, thank you for watching 🤘😎