One improvement you can make is to remove the middle wheels on the bed carriage. Having 6 wheels way over-constrains the way the carriage engages with the V-groove rail. In other words, the wheels will inevitably not align perfectly with each other, and consequently the bed will meander between good seating of one set of wheels and another set of wheels. In principle, the ideal number of wheels is three -- two wheels on one side and one on the other. There can be no contention between misaligned wheels with that arrangement. However, that puts a lot of load on the single wheel on one side. A fair compromise is two wheels on each side, and careful adjustment so that they are aligned with each other. I have used that arrangement for years, and it works well.
Did work on my own X1 a few days ago. Thankfully it now has a BLtouch and rubber spacers under the bed so no more manual bed leveling for me :D What I would recommend though: From time to time, clean the bed with dish soap water using the rough side of a sponge. IPA I use after every print but if your hands have fat/oil on them, the IPA in the paper towel will just spread it over the heatbed. After a thorough "soap clean" it now sticks sooooo much better. I printed a 30x30 cm box on it afterwards and it stuck everywhere on the bed which was a dream!
IPA can destroy the coating on Creality glass beds, they advise to only use soap and water in their forums to prevent permanent loss of adhesion.. Given many of these manufacturers are using essentially the same components re-configured, it might be wise to avoid IPA/ alcohol, and especially any over 70%.. Just a heads up..
@@AkiraFurball The Sidewinder X1 has an ultrabase like coating and artillery says that it is fine with IPA :) On the PEI sheet on my Prusa mk3 I use IPA also and that sheet approaches 6000 print hours already
@@sintoxic Creality manuals also say to clean with IPA.. but lots of users have complained of them loosing adhesion and in a big thread on thier forums they have confirmed that alcohol damages the coating that is applied to the silicon carbide(carborundum) bed.. I am not absolutely sure, but I think "ultrabase" is the same thing, silica carbide bed with a special coating.. In the forum discussion there is some suggestion that 70%IPA or lower does not strip the coating, but its not confirmed, and Creality advise to only use soap and water to prevent permanent damage. of course you are free to use whatever you wish, I only mention it because if the coating is the same, and especially if you use over 70% IPA, then you run the risc of permanent damage, if you clean with soap and water it is actually more effective at removing oils/ grease and will never cause any damage.
Looks like mine 😁 I just received my hotend kit from banggood, was able to fix a couple other machines in the mean time! Out of box quality is worth the wait! I want to purchase pc wheels & a genuine volcano next!
Ich hab ein problem mit meinem sidewinder x1 v4 sodass jedes mal wenn man den levelt das printbett in der mitte eingesackt ist (ca.2mm mehr in der mitte als an den ecken) was dazu führ das selbst mit nem ofset er nicht drucken kann... hast du ne idee an was das liegen könnte? Und vorallem wie man das fixxen kann?
@@WF3D Da bin ich wieder! Könntest du mal ein Video oder so über deine Cura Settings für den Attilery Sidewinder machen? Wäre wirklich hilfreich, weil ich schon am verzweifeln bin die Einstellungen für gute Prints herauszufinden.
@@stachlee Hey ich habe leider diesen Drucker nicht mehr. Ich hatte ihn nur zur Reparatur, außerdem benutze ich für alle meine Drucker den PrusaSlicer und nicht Cura, da ich Cura persönlich nicht so mag.
Do you have a link to the video this follows up? I looked under your videos, I can't tell which one it was. I'm seriously looking at the Sidewinder X2, which has bed levelling and a much better heated bed cable.
If you buy a "cheap" printer that is usally the case, yes. However i never upgraded my Prusas
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Hi! thanks for this video. I'll be running the bed leveling test now. How well do these upgrades translate to the Sidewinder X2, I got one and I'm having all the issues, but harware is different; to start with, it comes with a BL touch.
Hey! I haven't got my hands on the Sidewinder yet unfortunately. From what I can see it is only just some updated version, so best is to simply try to adapt these changes but I cannot give you a specific advise unfortunately
3 ปีที่แล้ว
@@WF3D thanks. well, I started by changing the v-slot rollers and really really working on the leveling of the bed while hot. That has already made a big difference. Now I'm going to change the feed gear.
i have the same fan duct and Cable clamp :-D and on the bed also polycarbonat. When i´m going to change the heatbreak to a bimetall and the idler, i will also upgrade to poly rolls
One improvement you can make is to remove the middle wheels on the bed carriage. Having 6 wheels way over-constrains the way the carriage engages with the V-groove rail. In other words, the wheels will inevitably not align perfectly with each other, and consequently the bed will meander between good seating of one set of wheels and another set of wheels. In principle, the ideal number of wheels is three -- two wheels on one side and one on the other. There can be no contention between misaligned wheels with that arrangement. However, that puts a lot of load on the single wheel on one side. A fair compromise is two wheels on each side, and careful adjustment so that they are aligned with each other. I have used that arrangement for years, and it works well.
I have mine 4 years, use it every day, and have never replaced a part.
Thanks for tip foy my sidewire x1 👍👍🇳🇱
Greats from Holland
Did work on my own X1 a few days ago. Thankfully it now has a BLtouch and rubber spacers under the bed so no more manual bed leveling for me :D What I would recommend though: From time to time, clean the bed with dish soap water using the rough side of a sponge. IPA I use after every print but if your hands have fat/oil on them, the IPA in the paper towel will just spread it over the heatbed. After a thorough "soap clean" it now sticks sooooo much better. I printed a 30x30 cm box on it afterwards and it stuck everywhere on the bed which was a dream!
Thanks for the tip! :)
But something which I noticed, too that the "soap clean" method also works really great for the textured steel sheet for the Prusa!
IPA can destroy the coating on Creality glass beds, they advise to only use soap and water in their forums to prevent permanent loss of adhesion..
Given many of these manufacturers are using essentially the same components re-configured, it might be wise to avoid IPA/ alcohol, and especially any over 70%..
Just a heads up..
@@AkiraFurball The Sidewinder X1 has an ultrabase like coating and artillery says that it is fine with IPA :) On the PEI sheet on my Prusa mk3 I use IPA also and that sheet approaches 6000 print hours already
@@sintoxic Creality manuals also say to clean with IPA.. but lots of users have complained of them loosing adhesion and in a big thread on thier forums they have confirmed that alcohol damages the coating that is applied to the silicon carbide(carborundum) bed..
I am not absolutely sure, but I think "ultrabase" is the same thing, silica carbide bed with a special coating..
In the forum discussion there is some suggestion that 70%IPA or lower does not strip the coating, but its not confirmed, and Creality advise to only use soap and water to prevent permanent damage.
of course you are free to use whatever you wish, I only mention it because if the coating is the same, and especially if you use over 70% IPA, then you run the risc of permanent damage, if you clean with soap and water it is actually more effective at removing oils/ grease and will never cause any damage.
Nice video! Haven't seen every video in the series but you definitely know your stuff!
Thank you!
Looks like mine 😁 I just received my hotend kit from banggood, was able to fix a couple other machines in the mean time!
Out of box quality is worth the wait!
I want to purchase pc wheels & a genuine volcano next!
Sounds nice!
Ich hab ein problem mit meinem sidewinder x1 v4 sodass jedes mal wenn man den levelt das printbett in der mitte eingesackt ist (ca.2mm mehr in der mitte als an den ecken) was dazu führ das selbst mit nem ofset er nicht drucken kann... hast du ne idee an was das liegen könnte? Und vorallem wie man das fixxen kann?
Woher hast du die Schrauben für den Fan? Bzw wie findest du die Maße heraus?
Ich hab die Schrauben in allen erdenklichen Größen immer da. Hab einfach ausprobiert welche passen :)
@@WF3D Da bin ich wieder! Könntest du mal ein Video oder so über deine Cura Settings für den Attilery Sidewinder machen? Wäre wirklich hilfreich, weil ich schon am verzweifeln bin die Einstellungen für gute Prints herauszufinden.
@@stachlee Hey ich habe leider diesen Drucker nicht mehr. Ich hatte ihn nur zur Reparatur, außerdem benutze ich für alle meine Drucker den PrusaSlicer und nicht Cura, da ich Cura persönlich nicht so mag.
Do you have a link to the video this follows up? I looked under your videos, I can't tell which one it was. I'm seriously looking at the Sidewinder X2, which has bed levelling and a much better heated bed cable.
+1👍 i'm learning early already that upgrades and repairs are inevitable :P
If you buy a "cheap" printer that is usally the case, yes. However i never upgraded my Prusas
Hi! thanks for this video. I'll be running the bed leveling test now.
How well do these upgrades translate to the Sidewinder X2, I got one and I'm having all the issues, but harware is different; to start with, it comes with a BL touch.
Hey! I haven't got my hands on the Sidewinder yet unfortunately. From what I can see it is only just some updated version, so best is to simply try to adapt these changes but I cannot give you a specific advise unfortunately
@@WF3D thanks. well, I started by changing the v-slot rollers and really really working on the leveling of the bed while hot. That has already made a big difference. Now I'm going to change the feed gear.
i have the same fan duct and Cable clamp :-D and on the bed also polycarbonat. When i´m going to change the heatbreak to a bimetall and the idler, i will also upgrade to poly rolls
Yeah they work very good for me too. Still open how long they will, tho :)
Have any tips for bed level issue? Mine is warpped.
If your bed is warped I think you need to change it or add a leveling sensor for mesh bed leveling
Looks like mine. I just fixed the hotend only to have short now in the bed 😡
That's a bummer :(
"then it was time for some really classic bed levelling; I do not enjoy this part ..." :-))
Me neither :D