Why not use “T” nuts instead of the extra work drilling the Z beam? That would also allow extra higher up easy connection points. Just a bit of feed back, but nice solution ; ) 👌
I had not thought of T nuts, I suppose that would work well too, and simpler. Good Idea, I will have to mention that in the video. Its slow going but I am working on it. Thank you for your input.
This is one of the best videos on modding the X1 that I have seen. I have this 3d printer also. I decided to use some extra 20x20 and 20x40 extrusion pieces to do the same thing. Basically, I sort of boxed that area in by only using the four bottom bolts to secure the short 20x40 behind the stepper motors. It works but like you said it's not as aesthetic as yours. My wife won't let me some of that equipment. If 3d printed with thick enough walls I am sure this would work. I normally use PLA and I have printed some very strong pieces with that filament. Again, nice job. And I concur that this is one of the best 3d printers on the market.
Cool project but.... In order for the Y-axis motion to cause Z-wobble in the Y direction you have to somehow set the Z axis and mass in motion in the Y direction. Since there's no Y motion in the entire Z towers and X rail+gantry and filament roll, the only way you will get the Z axis moving in the Y direction is if the bed mass moving in the Y direction causes the entire printer to move in the Y direction. This will happen if the printer is sitting on an unsteady base, like a wobbly table, or a rolling cart. In that case, the Z axis assembly will get pushed fore and aft, and the momentum of the mass of the X rail and gantry, and especially the filament sitting on top, will attempt to resist that motion, causing the Z axis to flex, especially at the bottom, and ultimately spring fore and aft. Worse, there will be some resonance to that springy motion, and the frequency of resonance will tune differently depending on the height of the X rail, and that will interact resonantly or anti-resonantly with the printer's repetitive Y motion commands, for example as it prints repetitive fill patterns. If instead you place the printer on a solid non-movable surface, then the printer won't move in the Y direction, and won't suffer this problem.
@@EtherealProject3D Hmmm, so it would be interesting to know how it was generating Y motion in Z tower. Maybe the rubber feet were slipping or flexing. At any rate, improving the Z tower rigidity is, no doubt, satisfying 🙂
@@Graham_Wideman I think its just the resonance in the frame, the contact surface is not big at all where the uprights mount to the base and its very easy to move the gantry by hand. The wobble doesnt come from the extrusions bending, its the contact area of the attachment point. These braces just increase that contact area.
@@EtherealProject3D I certainly agree with your description of the action of the braces. You are persuading me that I should add braces to my X1 just on principle 🙂.
Hey, I just printed and installed the easy version. My bed was running into the part, so I used my soldering iron and some aluminum foil to protect it and squished the ledge further down (probably 2mm). I printed with the 45 degree angle down to maximize strength on that axis. It immediately fixed a creaking/metal clacking noise I've been having since the beginning (and all screws are super tight). Thanks a lot! I'll reply to this comment if it helps my z-banding.
Awesome, thank you. There have been a few people have some clearance issues with these brackets, thank you for letting me know. I will update the stl files asap.
I would also suggest you check that the upright is square to the base. 'Although your bracket may be perfectly square there are usually slots milled in the base. If these are not perfect you may still have a slight tilt in the gantry
Excellent Tutorial and idea - very well thought out, perfectly structured - and perfectly presented - was a pleasure to watch ur Tutorial - keep up the good work - u got a new fan :) - rgds, Mike
Ditto. I like this machine. It's my first and only 3D printer, but the bed sucks. I'm waiting on a replacement bed that I purchased. It's made here in Germany. Aluminium with integrated magnets and a Biqu sheet. I'm quite excited about it! Also I'd like to install Octoklipper on my raspi 4 😁
nice bit of work there but as an x1 owner since the late v1 i dont feel you will have fully supported the uprights rather just moved the flex of them slightly higher, my thoughts have always been that the uprights should have been 4040 to sort the flexing over the length especially with the speed this machine can run, another major flaw you mentioned is the combined wieght of that daft spool holder and a Kilo of filament mounted on the cross beam which once it starts to resonate ( poss wrong word ) amplifies the flexing along the uprights, i have a resin printer next to my sw1 and even though i have a top to bottom support structure both sides the printer i was still seeing vibrations in the uncured resin in that printers vat if i used both at the same time, what gave me a massive reduction was totally isolating the filament spool from the printer including that overweight spool holder, ie more mass you can remove from the top of the machine the less issues you will have, please dont think this is a derogatory post of what i see as a good upgrade in both design and machining, its not meant to be derogatory but i think over a months use you will find the improvements are minimal. Wish i had your workshop. mines just big enough for 5 printers plus a smallish lathe and a separate small mill/drill
From the testing that I have done with this I noticed that most of the flex or wobble is due to the small surface area of the mounting surface. My bracket gives the gantry many times more mounting surface area. The 2040 beams are plenty stiff enough to keep the wobble at bay when they are mounted with these brackets. Thank you for you input, any sugestions are always welcome.
While that sure is a pretty-lookin bracket... I would think that connecting to the TOP of the gantry would be the ideal way to go. A couple of corner brackets, with threaded rod... and that sucker ain't goin nowhere. All you've done is added to the problem area with an over-worked hunk of aluminum. However... I do applaud your design & milling skills. It's obvious you're no amateur. Thanks for the upload.
It works better than it looks like it does. I aggree connecting it from the top would make it stiffer, I wanted to do my own design. Thank you for your comment.
Such a great solution! I've thought about fixing some issues on my x1 using my workbee cnc's 1.5kw spindle which cuts aluminum great, but I've only got so much Z height to play with :\
@@EtherealProject3D Only if you want cleaner prints with less artifacts in the walls. The slicer tries its best to plug the holes, and it does, but it has its own limits. Cleaning up the model with something like Meshmixer helps the slicer and can produce better results.
Did I recall you saying you weren't going to mfg the aluminum ones? If that's the case what can I expect to pay a shop to take the CAD drawings and make them?
I would love to try this out! But on the easy version, does the original bracket that holds the motor onto the gantry fit inside? I don't see any holes where the screws will go.
Cool design fellow machinist. I don't think the 3D Printed version will provide the rigidity that your looking for. Mainly for the reason of the screws hold the gantry to the plastic part. 3D Printed threads are no strong enough. You will have to add a nut on the back side or emboss a brass thread insert. Each option both have issues. Guess I will have to turn on the Bridgeport. Haha.
Petg should work just fine. I did my prototypes in PLA and they were surprisingly stiff. I still have a PLA one on one side and its really good. Still finishing part 3 of the videos about it.
Great design, however after printing I realised I have a magnetic bed on top of the glass which means the side slots on the two braces are in the wrong place (too low on tge model to fit the bed in). Any ideas on how to avoid a redesign and reprint?
If the thickness of you build plate is thicker than the clearance gap then a redesign and reprint will be needed. I can easily change the design for you if you need it.
Good tutorial, but I don't have access to a milling machine to make these brackets out of aluminum. If I were to print the easy version what type of filament would you recommend? I'm assuming PLA isn't going to be strong enough.
Good to hear, in stock form is it very well built and with tweaking jerk and accel settings it can perform very well. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Hello. I have printed these parts and the one problem I am having is finding where to buy the screws. Can you tell me where to buy the M3 and M5 screws. Thanks so much.
I got them on amazon. I could onlu find them in bulk, sorry uxcell M3x35mm 10.9 Carbon Steel Countersunk Head Hex Socket Screw 40pcs www.amazon.com/dp/B01C3KUMSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8TDUFb6408DFE uxcell M4x20mm Button Head Hex Socket Cap Screw Bolt Black 50pcs www.amazon.com/dp/B01D4VH6NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9VDUFb108M3JE
Wow very nice... How do the brackets perform? I was going to make one of those triangulated supports but I really don't like their esthetics (or lack there of). I love the current clean, modern look of the X1 as is. How rigid are the Z axis gantry with your brackets? Would love your thoughts/observations. In my case I would print those parts as I don't have access to a CNC machine. Great video and thank you for your contribution!
Thank you. The gantry is very rigid with the supports. Im going to do a rigidity comparison between the stock machine and with my brackets. Thanks for the feedback :)
@@EtherealProject3D awesome! Looking forward to your video! Since you also printed it, it would also be very interesting to compare your printed version vs your CNC one. Of course the CNC one will be much stiffer but by how much?
@@EtherealProject3D consider comparing all three: stock, diagonal rod and your bracket. This is a very well made thing, but i highly doubt that it will have the same rigidity as a simple rod. Actually you are just shifting the pivot-point a bit higher.
Hi do you have a catia file of the model? i printed one out from you but it crash with my printer bed so i need to modify the model a little bit. Thanks
I didnt notice a difference between brackets printed in PLA and aluminum ones. The design increases the mounting surface area of the gantry legs and takes advantage of the stiffness of the frame parts. I did some test printing and the reduction in Z wobble is impressive. I tested it with the spool on top like in stock form and with the spool seperate and there was no noticeable difference. These brackets are not as stiff as a triangulating rod but they plenty stiff for this machine.
Hey sorry took so long to comment. It's the guy who helped you load your new desk. So we got our 3d printing station set up and I did another test run and it did better on the print quality but still some work needed to get it right. Help meeeeeee
Its all good man. The desk is awesome BTW. Cant wait to show it in new videos. I can absolutely help. Email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com and we can set up a time to come see what you got going on.
i'm having some clearance issues on the right bracket after printing, maybe my version (or my specific model isn't as symmetric as it seems. I'm printing a modified version of the non-easy one to shave off some material for better clearance and to let me install it without having to make any modifications on the machine itself. I'm not a mechanic engineer so idk if my mods will impact much on the strength of the piece, but if it works i'll put it on thingiverse (crediting you for the original, of course) :D thanks a lot for putting it out there!
@@EtherealProject3D the bed was catching slightly on the side of the right bracket, so i shaved a couple of mms and removed some material from the top. I'll do a test print later today and let you know how it went, i can also send you the .stl file with my modifications if you want :)
@@EtherealProject3D worked perfectly after shaving off the side. gantry looks solid and wobble is practically gone (under 50 micrometers while continuously moving the z axis vs a whole lot more before adding the supports)
@@EtherealProject3D here's the modified stl file drive.google.com/file/d/1ybIO5RUKcEKAU_ILf3QflglyuLuzVTDo/view?usp=sharing i enlarged a few holes and added some extra holes to eliminate the need to drill or modify the gantry. i reused the original screws and used t nuts on the top ones that connect to the gantry
I printed the "Easy" file and they came out great. I am learning how to use CAD and I just wanted to see if I could replicate your design in FreeCad. It took me three runs and I finally got a somewhat useable file not yet tested. Before I didn't have the confidence to try that. Thanks for the push. Can a machine shop use the PDF diagram that you provided to do this in CNC, or would they need a G-CODE or STEP file to product it? I am sure that the cost would be pretty substantial, but it would be something to look into. Thanks again for your video and the files.
A machine shop should be able to replicate it from the drawing. But the would probably charge more than the printer cost. Perhaps if your local high school or community college has a machine shop class they could do it as a project. Keep up the work in free cad. Its a good feeling being able to design and print your own ideas.
I reprinted the "Easy" brackets with the back area facing down. My first attempts - good, but not perfect due to the "Supports" I had to remove. The reprints came out smooth and clean. Much better than my first attempt when they were printed on the side. When doing my test fit with the "Easy" I found out that I don't have to disassemble anything. All I needed to do is remove my extrusion brace setup. I am going to do a test print and check how the "Z" movement looks on it. Just my first impression now it doesn't seem that the "Easy" will hold up in keeping the "Z" in check. The "Easy" is just attached to the base and the back two bolts of the stepper motor. I can see that the other bracket may be a better choice since it is directly attached to the 20x40 extrusion. I am going to print them after my test on the "Easy" and once I put my extrusion braces back on. This may seem like a lot of work and a lot of work for nothing. But, for me, it is an exercise of mind and thought to solve issues. Plus it is so much fun.
With the easy brackets you need to aquire 2 more screws to mount it to the stepper motor. They will be the same as the current screws on the stock mounting bracket.
I just completed my first test with the new Z brackets. But before printing, I had to manually trim about 2mm off the inside area of the top-right bracket. My bed would not clear moving on the Y-axis when I attempted to relevel it. The left bracket did not require any adjustment. My test was the 20x30mm X1 cube. There was no evidence of any wobble. Printing with a 0.6 nozzle, all of the layers were intact with no separation or irregular formations on the cube. I am very impressed with your design. I have another printer that is a custom build that I will be using X1 spare parts and I will incorporate your bracket design into it. Thanks again for sharing this item.
@@leeo.alexander2324 Im sorry you had to trim some material from one side, I did not have to do that. Im happy its working for you. Thank you for your feedback. Happy printing.
@@EtherealProject3D Its cool man I just didnt have the gear to machine one my self I ended up doing a liner rail mod to moine so well see what else i can do to it to make it work beter mine still dont have the best print quality
@@EtherealProject3D I'd gladly pay $100 for a pair of these brackets. Especially if they were black-oxidized, or anodized in teal to match the esthetics of the SWX1 :) But I think CNC-ing these parts is what will make them more expensive than that. Is it possible to produce a castable version of this model instead?
Can you/will you, make an aluminium bracket and sell it to me? How much? I appreciate your videos. Always complete. Always concise. Always understandable. I would like to open a line of e-mail conversation with you, -- how?
I have not made a guide for that but if thats something that people would like that can be done easily. Are you looking to use solidworks to do some designing?
@@EtherealProject3D I am , im new to 3D printing and already have some experience in solidworks so I thought it would be great if I could just stick with what I know and also practice with it
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Why not use “T” nuts instead of the extra work drilling the Z beam? That would also allow extra higher up easy connection points. Just a bit of feed back, but nice solution ; ) 👌
I had not thought of T nuts, I suppose that would work well too, and simpler. Good Idea, I will have to mention that in the video. Its slow going but I am working on it. Thank you for your input.
Clear, concise, informative AND free stuff!
Many thanks.
I miss my little milling machine :(
Your welcome. Thank you for the comment.
Ingenious! Having it made out of aluminum also doubles as a heatsink for the motors :-D
Too bad I dont have the ability..nor the SXW1 yet.
Thank you 😀 Well I guess its time for you to get a SWX1.
This is one of the best videos on modding the X1 that I have seen. I have this 3d printer also. I decided to use some extra 20x20 and 20x40 extrusion pieces to do the same thing. Basically, I sort of boxed that area in by only using the four bottom bolts to secure the short 20x40 behind the stepper motors. It works but like you said it's not as aesthetic as yours. My wife won't let me some of that equipment. If 3d printed with thick enough walls I am sure this would work. I normally use PLA and I have printed some very strong pieces with that filament. Again, nice job. And I concur that this is one of the best 3d printers on the market.
When I did the 3d printed prototypes I set up the slicer to do 5 layer walls. Worked really good. Thank you for watching.
This is fantastic! Would love to see some comparison prints :)
Thank you. I will be showing that in future videos.
Cool project but.... In order for the Y-axis motion to cause Z-wobble in the Y direction you have to somehow set the Z axis and mass in motion in the Y direction. Since there's no Y motion in the entire Z towers and X rail+gantry and filament roll, the only way you will get the Z axis moving in the Y direction is if the bed mass moving in the Y direction causes the entire printer to move in the Y direction. This will happen if the printer is sitting on an unsteady base, like a wobbly table, or a rolling cart. In that case, the Z axis assembly will get pushed fore and aft, and the momentum of the mass of the X rail and gantry, and especially the filament sitting on top, will attempt to resist that motion, causing the Z axis to flex, especially at the bottom, and ultimately spring fore and aft. Worse, there will be some resonance to that springy motion, and the frequency of resonance will tune differently depending on the height of the X rail, and that will interact resonantly or anti-resonantly with the printer's repetitive Y motion commands, for example as it prints repetitive fill patterns.
If instead you place the printer on a solid non-movable surface, then the printer won't move in the Y direction, and won't suffer this problem.
So i get what you are saying, but even with the printer on a concrete floor it still had wobble.
@@EtherealProject3D Hmmm, so it would be interesting to know how it was generating Y motion in Z tower. Maybe the rubber feet were slipping or flexing. At any rate, improving the Z tower rigidity is, no doubt, satisfying 🙂
@@Graham_Wideman I think its just the resonance in the frame, the contact surface is not big at all where the uprights mount to the base and its very easy to move the gantry by hand. The wobble doesnt come from the extrusions bending, its the contact area of the attachment point. These braces just increase that contact area.
@@EtherealProject3D I certainly agree with your description of the action of the braces. You are persuading me that I should add braces to my X1 just on principle 🙂.
@@Graham_Wideman DO it. Its good for you.
Hey, I just printed and installed the easy version. My bed was running into the part, so I used my soldering iron and some aluminum foil to protect it and squished the ledge further down (probably 2mm). I printed with the 45 degree angle down to maximize strength on that axis. It immediately fixed a creaking/metal clacking noise I've been having since the beginning (and all screws are super tight). Thanks a lot! I'll reply to this comment if it helps my z-banding.
Awesome, thank you. There have been a few people have some clearance issues with these brackets, thank you for letting me know. I will update the stl files asap.
I would also suggest you check that the upright is square to the base. 'Although your bracket may be perfectly square there are usually slots milled in the base. If these are not perfect you may still have a slight tilt in the gantry
They are square on my machine.
Excellent Tutorial and idea - very well thought out, perfectly structured - and perfectly presented - was a pleasure to watch ur Tutorial - keep up the good work - u got a new fan :) - rgds, Mike
Thank you for your kind comment. More great content coming soon.
Ditto. I like this machine. It's my first and only 3D printer, but the bed sucks. I'm waiting on a replacement bed that I purchased. It's made here in Germany. Aluminium with integrated magnets and a Biqu sheet. I'm quite excited about it! Also I'd like to install Octoklipper on my raspi 4 😁
Sweet, great choice for a first printer.
@@EtherealProject3D Cool :) Did you install octoprint? Would love to see a octoklipper install guide:)
I have not installed Octoprint sorry.
nice bit of work there but as an x1 owner since the late v1 i dont feel you will have fully supported the uprights rather just moved the flex of them slightly higher, my thoughts have always been that the uprights should have been 4040 to sort the flexing over the length especially with the speed this machine can run, another major flaw you mentioned is the combined wieght of that daft spool holder and a Kilo of filament mounted on the cross beam which once it starts to resonate ( poss wrong word ) amplifies the flexing along the uprights, i have a resin printer next to my sw1 and even though i have a top to bottom support structure both sides the printer i was still seeing vibrations in the uncured resin in that printers vat if i used both at the same time, what gave me a massive reduction was totally isolating the filament spool from the printer including that overweight spool holder, ie more mass you can remove from the top of the machine the less issues you will have, please dont think this is a derogatory post of what i see as a good upgrade in both design and machining, its not meant to be derogatory but i think over a months use you will find the improvements are minimal. Wish i had your workshop. mines just big enough for 5 printers plus a smallish lathe and a separate small mill/drill
From the testing that I have done with this I noticed that most of the flex or wobble is due to the small surface area of the mounting surface. My bracket gives the gantry many times more mounting surface area. The 2040 beams are plenty stiff enough to keep the wobble at bay when they are mounted with these brackets. Thank you for you input, any sugestions are always welcome.
Good solution
The bracket looks great too
Thank you.
While that sure is a pretty-lookin bracket... I would think that connecting to the TOP of the gantry would be the ideal way to go. A couple of corner brackets, with threaded rod... and that sucker ain't goin nowhere. All you've done is added to the problem area with an over-worked hunk of aluminum.
However... I do applaud your design & milling skills. It's obvious you're no amateur. Thanks for the upload.
It works better than it looks like it does. I aggree connecting it from the top would make it stiffer, I wanted to do my own design. Thank you for your comment.
thanks for the share STL file, it seem to be a good solution, i'll try the "easy" version. of course i liked the video
Your welcome, let me know how it works out for you..
My guy! This is exactly what I needed!
Awesome, Im happy I could help.
@@EtherealProject3D side note. You should pop these bad boys on thingivers.
@@Lv0_MagikarpTrue, I will have to do that.
Such a great solution! I've thought about fixing some issues on my x1 using my workbee cnc's 1.5kw spindle which cuts aluminum great, but I've only got so much Z height to play with :\
Thank you 😁. I would love to get a CNC some day, but having the full size milling machine doesnt suck.
Thanks for the STLs, I'll give it a try.
(btw, my mesh analyzer indicates the models have a few stray edges and unclosed surface borders)
Thank you. Interesting, i never jad a problem with it. Is there something i can fix on my end?
@@EtherealProject3D Only if you want cleaner prints with less artifacts in the walls. The slicer tries its best to plug the holes, and it does, but it has its own limits. Cleaning up the model with something like Meshmixer helps the slicer and can produce better results.
@@mururoa7024 I will look into that, ive never used meshmixer, I will give it a look. Thank you.
Just wow! Gonna use it!
Thank you 😃
Did I recall you saying you weren't going to mfg the aluminum ones? If that's the case what can I expect to pay a shop to take the CAD drawings and make them?
That I do not know, I would think the price would vary from shop to shop.
Very informative. Thanks for creating!
Thank you. 😀
thank you for sharing this idea, just got one SW X1 too )
Thank you. Your going to have fun with your new printer for sure.
Awesome video buddy!! Great job.
Thanks man :)
They give you just 2 BLACK wheels in the zipper bag , but their are at least 9 wheels on the machine.. what 2 wheels do they expect you to change ?
I think its just a couple of spares just incase.
I would love to try this out! But on the easy version, does the original bracket that holds the motor onto the gantry fit inside? I don't see any holes where the screws will go.
The original bracket stays with the easy version. All you need are 2 more screws to attach it to the back of the stepper motor.
@@EtherealProject3D Awesome you really did think of everything! Thank you
@@jacobconley420 You are very welcome, happy printing.
Cool design fellow machinist.
I don't think the 3D Printed version will provide the rigidity that your looking for. Mainly for the reason of the screws hold the gantry to the plastic part. 3D Printed threads are no strong enough. You will have to add a nut on the back side or emboss a brass thread insert. Each option both have issues. Guess I will have to turn on the Bridgeport. Haha.
I get what you are saying , but the 3d printed part is plenty stiff enough.
Thanks for the video.
Where can we buy these brackets?
There are stl files linked below if you would like to 3d print them. There is also a blueprint linked for those that want to make them.
@@EtherealProject3D thanks
I saw the files but do you think it is strong enough in PETG compare to aluminium?
Petg should work just fine. I did my prototypes in PLA and they were surprisingly stiff. I still have a PLA one on one side and its really good. Still finishing part 3 of the videos about it.
@@EtherealProject3D thanks a lot for your quick feedback
You are very welcome. If you end up trying them in PETG let me know how it works for you.
Great design, however after printing I realised I have a magnetic bed on top of the glass which means the side slots on the two braces are in the wrong place (too low on tge model to fit the bed in). Any ideas on how to avoid a redesign and reprint?
If the thickness of you build plate is thicker than the clearance gap then a redesign and reprint will be needed. I can easily change the design for you if you need it.
Good tutorial, but I don't have access to a milling machine to make these brackets out of aluminum. If I were to print the easy version what type of filament would you recommend? I'm assuming PLA isn't going to be strong enough.
I did my test pieces in PLA and they were surprisingly strong. But for better results PETG would be better.
@@EtherealProject3D How hot do the motors get - would it be a heat issue for PLA? Thanks for the Video - only just found it on the facebook group
Just a question this mod would work on a sidewinder X2??
Please let us know. I would love to make these for my X2 if they'd fit
@JDubya90 I have 3d printable ones for it, stl is on my website.
really nice, indeed this seems much cleaner, i wish you had show the difference in a print to see if it's worth the trouble
I will be making comparison videos as part of the project.
Can you show before and after prints ?
That is a video I plan on doing. Be sure to watch part 2. Part 3 coming soon.
Thanks mate, I must be lucky with my X1 I have never had any z wobble and if I did it hasn't affected my full height prints
Good to hear, in stock form is it very well built and with tweaking jerk and accel settings it can perform very well. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Hello. I have printed these parts and the one problem I am having is finding where to buy the screws. Can you tell me where to buy the M3 and M5 screws. Thanks so much.
I got them on amazon. I could onlu find them in bulk, sorry
uxcell M3x35mm 10.9 Carbon Steel Countersunk Head Hex Socket Screw 40pcs www.amazon.com/dp/B01C3KUMSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8TDUFb6408DFE
uxcell M4x20mm Button Head Hex Socket Cap Screw Bolt Black 50pcs www.amazon.com/dp/B01D4VH6NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9VDUFb108M3JE
ur legit bro...
Thank you.
Wow very nice... How do the brackets perform? I was going to make one of those triangulated supports but I really don't like their esthetics (or lack there of). I love the current clean, modern look of the X1 as is. How rigid are the Z axis gantry with your brackets? Would love your thoughts/observations. In my case I would print those parts as I don't have access to a CNC machine. Great video and thank you for your contribution!
Thank you. The gantry is very rigid with the supports. Im going to do a rigidity comparison between the stock machine and with my brackets. Thanks for the feedback :)
@@EtherealProject3D awesome! Looking forward to your video! Since you also printed it, it would also be very interesting to compare your printed version vs your CNC one. Of course the CNC one will be much stiffer but by how much?
@@EtherealProject3D consider comparing all three: stock, diagonal rod and your bracket. This is a very well made thing, but i highly doubt that it will have the same rigidity as a simple rod. Actually you are just shifting the pivot-point a bit higher.
Спасибо!
Your welcome!
Hi do you have a catia file of the model? i printed one out from you but it crash with my printer bed so i need to modify the model a little bit. Thanks
I have the step files, my part files got lost when I got a new laptop.
What’s the difference between 3D printed part and aluminum ? Does the 3D printed effectively remove Z wobble or not ?
I didnt notice a difference between brackets printed in PLA and aluminum ones. The design increases the mounting surface area of the gantry legs and takes advantage of the stiffness of the frame parts. I did some test printing and the reduction in Z wobble is impressive. I tested it with the spool on top like in stock form and with the spool seperate and there was no noticeable difference. These brackets are not as stiff as a triangulating rod but they plenty stiff for this machine.
Hey sorry took so long to comment. It's the guy who helped you load your new desk. So we got our 3d printing station set up and I did another test run and it did better on the print quality but still some work needed to get it right. Help meeeeeee
Its all good man. The desk is awesome BTW. Cant wait to show it in new videos. I can absolutely help. Email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com and we can set up a time to come see what you got going on.
@@EtherealProject3D good stuff man. Look forward to nerding out with ya again.
this is cool can u do any suggestions for prusa
I dont have a Prusa machine, but if you would like to donate one I would be happy to do something similar for it 😉
This is very nice. Thank you for uploading.
I will try to print it in ASA.
How much infill did you use for the PLA version?
Thank you. I used 20% infill and 4 shells.
Where did you get those stepper motor couplers? did you notice any improvement with using them?
I got them on amazon. Yes there is a pretty good improvement in print quality with them.
i'm having some clearance issues on the right bracket after printing, maybe my version (or my specific model isn't as symmetric as it seems. I'm printing a modified version of the non-easy one to shave off some material for better clearance and to let me install it without having to make any modifications on the machine itself.
I'm not a mechanic engineer so idk if my mods will impact much on the strength of the piece, but if it works i'll put it on thingiverse (crediting you for the original, of course) :D thanks a lot for putting it out there!
Where on the model did you not have enough clearance
@@EtherealProject3D the bed was catching slightly on the side of the right bracket, so i shaved a couple of mms and removed some material from the top. I'll do a test print later today and let you know how it went, i can also send you the .stl file with my modifications if you want :)
@@ririari Thank you, let me know how it works and I can update the model and stl files. I didnt run into this when I did mine.
@@EtherealProject3D worked perfectly after shaving off the side. gantry looks solid and wobble is practically gone (under 50 micrometers while continuously moving the z axis vs a whole lot more before adding the supports)
@@EtherealProject3D here's the modified stl file
drive.google.com/file/d/1ybIO5RUKcEKAU_ILf3QflglyuLuzVTDo/view?usp=sharing
i enlarged a few holes and added some extra holes to eliminate the need to drill or modify the gantry. i reused the original screws and used t nuts on the top ones that connect to the gantry
I printed the "Easy" file and they came out great. I am learning how to use CAD and I just wanted to see if I could replicate your design in FreeCad. It took me three runs and I finally got a somewhat useable file not yet tested. Before I didn't have the confidence to try that. Thanks for the push. Can a machine shop use the PDF diagram that you provided to do this in CNC, or would they need a G-CODE or STEP file to product it? I am sure that the cost would be pretty substantial, but it would be something to look into. Thanks again for your video and the files.
A machine shop should be able to replicate it from the drawing. But the would probably charge more than the printer cost. Perhaps if your local high school or community college has a machine shop class they could do it as a project. Keep up the work in free cad. Its a good feeling being able to design and print your own ideas.
I reprinted the "Easy" brackets with the back area facing down. My first attempts - good, but not perfect due to the "Supports" I had to remove. The reprints came out smooth and clean. Much better than my first attempt when they were printed on the side. When doing my test fit with the "Easy" I found out that I don't have to disassemble anything. All I needed to do is remove my extrusion brace setup. I am going to do a test print and check how the "Z" movement looks on it. Just my first impression now it doesn't seem that the "Easy" will hold up in keeping the "Z" in check. The "Easy" is just attached to the base and the back two bolts of the stepper motor. I can see that the other bracket may be a better choice since it is directly attached to the 20x40 extrusion. I am going to print them after my test on the "Easy" and once I put my extrusion braces back on. This may seem like a lot of work and a lot of work for nothing. But, for me, it is an exercise of mind and thought to solve issues. Plus it is so much fun.
With the easy brackets you need to aquire 2 more screws to mount it to the stepper motor. They will be the same as the current screws on the stock mounting bracket.
I just completed my first test with the new Z brackets. But before printing, I had to manually trim about 2mm off the inside area of the top-right bracket. My bed would not clear moving on the Y-axis when I attempted to relevel it. The left bracket did not require any adjustment. My test was the 20x30mm X1 cube. There was no evidence of any wobble. Printing with a 0.6 nozzle, all of the layers were intact with no separation or irregular formations on the cube. I am very impressed with your design. I have another printer that is a custom build that I will be using X1 spare parts and I will incorporate your bracket design into it. Thanks again for sharing this item.
@@leeo.alexander2324 Im sorry you had to trim some material from one side, I did not have to do that. Im happy its working for you. Thank you for your feedback. Happy printing.
Idk what brunch looks like in your family but if you’re bringing 3D printers I want an invite 😋
Great work, but to be honest, the printed part in blue looks better on this machine (cause of the blue accents).
Thank you. Yes I aggree the printed bracket looks really nice on the machine.
How much would you want for a set of them brackets?
For the amount of time it takes to machine one it would be unrealistic and to costly to sell them. I am sorry.
@@EtherealProject3D Its cool man I just didnt have the gear to machine one my self I ended up doing a liner rail mod to moine so well see what else i can do to it to make it work beter mine still dont have the best print quality
pleas make a metric cad drawing
I can do that for ya.
You should sell these
Ive thought about it. Depends on how much people would be willing to pay.
@@EtherealProject3D I'd gladly pay $100 for a pair of these brackets. Especially if they were black-oxidized, or anodized in teal to match the esthetics of the SWX1 :) But I think CNC-ing these parts is what will make them more expensive than that. Is it possible to produce a castable version of this model instead?
Anodizing them would be awesome. Maybe in the future I will look into it.
Hi, can I ask does it fit to Sidewinder x2?
It should
@@EtherealProject3D thank you sir…
You are welcome
hi did this work for you, im getting lines and tried everything
Can you/will you, make an aluminium bracket and sell it to me? How much?
I appreciate your videos. Always complete. Always concise. Always understandable.
I would like to open a line of e-mail conversation with you, -- how?
You can email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com
are you using solidworks to print with ?
I use solidworks to model with, save as STL and then open STL in CURA to slice and print.
@@EtherealProject3D oh that’s awesome , did you make a guide maybe on how to do that or there’s already one available?
I have not made a guide for that but if thats something that people would like that can be done easily. Are you looking to use solidworks to do some designing?
@@EtherealProject3D I am , im new to 3D printing and already have some experience in solidworks so I thought it would be great if I could just stick with what I know and also practice with it
I can make a quick guide today and upload it for ya, im sure others would like to know also.
sell these parts
I hve thought about making a few sets to sell and see how many people would want them.
@@EtherealProject3D if you go forward i would like ones for me
I will keep that in mind. Thank you for your interest.
this bracket doesnt do anything , and if it wobble you wanna secure the top since bottom already is
This bracket helps tremendously. The bottom is not as secure as it seems.