I repaired my heating coil today and felt like a hero! I did most of it while my baby was napping. Mostly, that's a testament to your super clear, in focus, easy to follow, well voiced over video. Thank you for posting not just good information, but digestible, clear information. I so appreciate your effort and channel!
Great video.. I replace the heating element (even though I don't see anything wrong with the old one), and it came with a new high limit switch. also replaced the thermistor. Still doesn't work correctly. So now I'm going to use your video to troubleshoot. Thanks for actually went through all the possible areas and how to test them. Most videos just show the common problems, and don't even show a way to verify that's what was faulty.
We thought we had a bad heating element and used your video to test all the components. In the end we found that the RL2 relay on the control board was loose, with 2 of its soldered prongs needing to be resoldered. Without your quality video instruction we would have just replaced the element and been out $75 and still had no heat. Thanks!
Exact same issue here, only I expected it to be the relay since I see it in automotive all the time. ;) Pretty much any relay soldered to a PCB with lead-free solder.
Saved me $700 bucks at least thanks for making this video. I had replaced the element which was burned but new element wouldn’t heat. Tested thermostats all fine. I was about to give up and saw this. The element had tripped the breaker but not completely so as to kill it totally I had 120 but not 220.
Well, I loved this video. But it also confirmed that I'm waiting for a service tech to call me back. I am not a plumber or electrician and truly appreciation both of those professions. Thanks Bill!
Very very Helpful n authentic video. Problem was with Heater relay. couldn't find where to buy. I went through comments and clicked....!!!! Replaced female connectors and done....Thank you Bill for saving me on big bucks.
I just wanted to say thank you. This is the second video of yours that has helped me troubleshoot a problem with an appliance that I was then able to fix myself. You helped me save a lot of time and money, as well as giving me more confidence. I'll definitely be pointing friends and family with appliance issues to your channel.
Thanks for this awesome video. I was going to replace my heating element and it turned out there was a bunch of lint in the belt motor connection. Would have never thought to check all the connections and I especially didn’t know about the switch on the motor. Everything works great now :)
Thank you for this video. Great description of circuit and logical flow of troubleshooting. As did another user below, we found that the relay on the ctrl board had come unsoldered. Was a very easy fix that we couldn't have done without your help. Thanks again!
I have this exact Frigidaire Dryer, Model number LEQ1452KS0. Turns on but no heat. After searching through numerous information videos I finally came across yours and what a relief. Not every Frigidaire dryer is the same and although I finally did get this one apart to check out the issue, finding the heating coil broken, it was trial and error as every video I say had different instruction on taking 'a Frigidaire dryer apart'. So far I know the heating coil needs replaced but I'm not sure about the control thermistor. Every other video says that is a fuse and if it reads Open with a multi-meter then it needs replaced. However, if it is actually a control thermistor then it wouldn't read Open at all.
Thank you Bill. This was a very informative video. I was tempted to just purchase a heater coil but by following your video the problem was quickly diagnosed as the heater relay. Thank you so much!
Bill excellent video. Opened my dryer up and found a broken heating coil. Performed the temp repair in your other video and the dryer is working great until my new heating element arrives. Much appreciated!
Thanks Bill! I busted out the multimeter and found no reading on my heating coil after running down your checklist. The unit I'm working on is a frigidaire stacked combo unit but I had little issue translating.
Thank you! Thank You! Thanks you! I was about to go out to purchase a new dryer for boxing day until I saw your video. It was the RELAY module that was not working properly and got it working again! ...and I scored a lot of brownie points with the wife :) Happy Holidays!
+Bill Newberry My reading on the heater relay and it didnt change says its open when I pressed start. I removed the control board and the connection to the ground cable looks fried. I assum I need a new board? Just had to be the most expensive part! Any thoughts?
wish I'd found this video before I spent hours working this all out myself (and realizing I need a better multimeter). Probably don't need the new board i ordered! Very nicely explained - except you didnt show testing the small thermal limiter on the top of the back wall near the power strip.
So I've been going around and around for days trying to figure out why my dryer is not heating. I read the thermistor was supposed to have a range of 5 to 20Kohms and when I tested it using my cheap multimeter at a 20K setting it showed as open. I replaced the thermistor, testing the new one before installation (it had a resistance between 15- 20Kohms), and then found that my thermal fuse was also bad. After bypassing the thermal fuse, the dryer still would not fire. I was totally stuck because I thought that the old thermistor was open and the new one was tested and correct. You stating that the resistance on the thermistor should be between 50 and 100Kohms saved me. I retested the old one using a range of 200Kohms and realized it was not open. I put the old one back and it fired. Maybe I'll buy an autoranging multimeter next time but your video saved me on this one. Thanks!
Thank you for this video! After following your trouble shooting steps I found that the relay was not working (step 2 in your trouble shooting) For fun I took the panel apart and found that one of the contacts on the board for the relay had cracked. A a quick solder and it was good as new!
Very helpful video! I thought I had a bad heating coil but no break in it and I think it was just restricted air flow (?) - possible? I put everything back together and it runs normally EXCEPT the temperatur eof the back of the dryer during operation is about 180 degrees F - seems really hot to me! I measured using a digital thermometer (industrial type) measuring the back dryer panel, from the outside, during operation. Seems really hot to me. I had it on medium heat; I can't imagine what it would have been on high heat. It's an old (17 years old?) Fridgidare electric dryer. Thanks in advance!
Excellent video! it's great how you showed where everything is and how to test each componet. It was a huge help for me but unfortunately my dryer still doesnt dry. I replaced or checked all of the parts you mentioned and still no heat, If I rock the dryer side to side the heating element will come on but after a few minutes I hear a click and no more heat. could this be the centrifugal switch on the motor getting stuck or requiring too much force to open/stay open ?? I can move it with my finger and is showing .1 ohm. is there anything else that would cause a click then shut off? relay?
Hey Bill, I tested all these components and all were good except for heater relay. I ran test with drum out of machine though. Would that affect test at all. Not sure how it could, but just making sure.
Hello Bill, great video and I appreciate your calm, coherent delivery and the methodical steps taken. Do you have a video covering this issue on a gas dryer? Or a different link on your channel? It's a 9 year old Frigidaire Affinity stack unit. Any help appreciated! Thanks again! Chas.
now no these new frigidaire dryers elec style i have found a dual element style should be 20 ohm to heat, i just worked on one that had only half of that 10 ohms and that was the problem replaced it with new element that had what the factory called for which was 20 ohms of resistance and now it is hard for the current to past by it and gets very hot from the correct 20 ohm resistance and heats up great now... so i guess on the new style DUAL ELEMENTS i will have to look for that,,, now this is the first one i have seen like this low resistances... i hope this will help out... now this unit here our friend bill which passed away 5 years ago would be happy to read this and learn from me...
Went through your whole checklist and everything worked as shown checking with the multimeter. Dryer still has no heat! Removed all of the lint from the exhaust as well. Still no heat. Any ideas? I literally went through the checklist twice making sure I did everything as you mentioned. Thanks!
Hi I replaced heating coil, the two round fuses u plug in by the top and the fuze by bottom blower. So all those are new. Thought maybe the fuses were bad so bought all new twice. Still nothing. So it's the relay from the control board or something on the motor. I don't have a meter. Can you please tell me how to change relay & the part on the motor & part numbers please? I've been trying so hard still coil won't heat.
+Bill Newberry My reading on the heater relay and it didnt change says its open when I pressed start. I removed the control board and the connection to the ground cable looks fried. I assum I need a new board? Just had to be the most expensive part! Any thoughts?
Bill (or anyone else), I was working through your checklist and finally got to the heating element and saw that the coil was busted. I decided to buy a new coil and restring it and when I got to working on that one of the ceramic clips crumbled on me and I need to replace it - probably best to just get a full new set of clips. Do you know what they are called or a part number where I can find them online or at a local big box store (probably should have just gone with the complete heating element assembly, but in for a penny in for a pound). Also, the unit is pretty old (Frigidaire FEX831FS2) and I had to use pliers and pull pretty hard to remove the terminals and one of the terminals broke off, and I figured I would just replace all four of those terminals that lead to or relate to the heating element since they looked a little worn. Is there a certain style or size for those terminals and is there a good video for replacing a wire terminal? Many thanks!
I have tested everything and everything seems to check out. However, I have noticed that when the heating element seems to be trying to start back up, the heater relay is clicking SEVERAL times. If I put pressure on the wires, it seems to stop clicking and the heating element starts heating up again. Do you think it's just the relay and can I just replace that individually?
My FFLE3900UW0 Fridgeaire washer/dryer, the dryer runs for 5 Seconds and quits, error code 53, I’ve replaced the motor and the dryer control board and the thermistor. Could the washer control board be an issue. The washer works fine.
Hey Bill great video and very helpful. I went through the entire thing like you showed everything is good but the relay switch isn't reading any ohms. I've ordered two control boards and still the same problem. Is there anything else I can try before I give up. I've gotten an e10 error on both of the new control boards. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
I have a front loading Fridgedare Affinity AEQ6000ES2 that is not drying. There is an error message E5b. I don't have an electrical ohm tester. Is there a way to figure out what needs to be replaced without the tester?
My dryer runs but does not heat. I've found a lot of dust in the exhaust , I cleaned it up and tried again but still no heat. Control thermistor has 42 K ohm. is it good or should I replace it ?
I have a frigidaire fflg3900w. when I start the dryer it stops after 2-3 seconds. Any ideal whats wrong I changed the board the error code is bad heat sensing unit
Good job! I have a front load Fridigaire bought in 1992 and I was taking the top off and when balancing it Ipulled some of the wires loose(no disconnect points) now I am over my head. I have the wire diagram but it's hard to follow. This machine has one dial that controls all settings but has a separate start button. I have 6 wires that are loose. On the back of the dial all wires are black and stayed in place. The loose ones are yellow,white,purple, red, orange,black. HELP! Thank you for your time and advice. Model number WDSCL-W-1; wiring diagram number 146964.
My dryer is making a very loud noise..the heat is coming to top of dryer but not into the tub.. You can't touch the top of the dryer,I it gets so hot..but not drying clothes..what can it be?
good afternoon, i need your help about my frigidaire dryer model: FARE4044MWL, appears error pause everytime when i turn it ON. Please, I need a prompt answer, thank youuuu...
Thanks , great instructive video..., though I Ma's dryer is a gas 06 fridgidaire with a hum... I replaced the st switch allowing drum run... yet no heat w/ periodic buzz/hum....hmmmm...😂
I plug my dryer in and it goes thru the start codes then nothing no dial lights no lights on display. push start button nothing happens. push start button and hold it downl about 20 secs it beeps 3 times, but still nothing. help me
Cool I registered for the give away. I thought the video was awesome. was wondering about the electronics over engineered crap but I do like an Electrolux machine.
Still no heat. Replaced everything. I have 240V coming in. Every thing has continuity. Motor centrifugal switch, all sensors replaced, thermal fuse (both) and thermistor, Board relay not closing. Not in test mode either, its the only thing not working, replaced relay, still not working. replaced board still not working. What's left? -I got it. Test mode showed the temperature at 174F. Therefor no heat required. I put the old sensor in and test mode shows 70F and heat is on. I must have received the wrong thermistor 20K vs 50K
Dude!!... Man thanks for posting this, I did the same thing and you saved me! Swapped out the thermistor just because it was cheap.. replaced with the old one and it works now! Went like a month with no dryer haha good to have it fixed
Great info but it stiil didn't get my dryer to heat. electro swith works and all the others check out on a contiunity test. inc element.still no heat . hmmmm lost
I repaired my heating coil today and felt like a hero! I did most of it while my baby was napping.
Mostly, that's a testament to your super clear, in focus, easy to follow, well voiced over video.
Thank you for posting not just good information, but digestible, clear information.
I so appreciate your effort and channel!
Thanks Bill! You saved this 72 year old, on social security, a lot of money! You are the best.
Great video.. I replace the heating element (even though I don't see anything wrong with the old one), and it came with a new high limit switch. also replaced the thermistor. Still doesn't work correctly. So now I'm going to use your video to troubleshoot. Thanks for actually went through all the possible areas and how to test them. Most videos just show the common problems, and don't even show a way to verify that's what was faulty.
We thought we had a bad heating element and used your video to test all the components. In the end we found that the RL2 relay on the control board was loose, with 2 of its soldered prongs needing to be resoldered. Without your quality video instruction we would have just replaced the element and been out $75 and still had no heat. Thanks!
Exact same issue here, only I expected it to be the relay since I see it in automotive all the time. ;) Pretty much any relay soldered to a PCB with lead-free solder.
Saved me $700 bucks at least thanks for making this video. I had replaced the element which was burned but new element wouldn’t heat. Tested thermostats all fine. I was about to give up and saw this. The element had tripped the breaker but not completely so as to kill it totally I had 120 but not 220.
Well, I loved this video. But it also confirmed that I'm waiting for a service tech to call me back. I am not a plumber or electrician and truly appreciation both of those professions. Thanks Bill!
This was the best appliance trouble shooting video I've ever come across on TH-cam. Really good job and thank you.
Thank you Mr. Bill fixed my dry for ten bucks the repair guy was charging 120. Your the man 👍
Very very Helpful n authentic video. Problem was with Heater relay. couldn't find where to buy. I went through comments and clicked....!!!! Replaced female connectors and done....Thank you Bill for saving me on big bucks.
I just wanted to say thank you. This is the second video of yours that has helped me troubleshoot a problem with an appliance that I was then able to fix myself. You helped me save a lot of time and money, as well as giving me more confidence. I'll definitely be pointing friends and family with appliance issues to your channel.
Thanks for this awesome video. I was going to replace my heating element and it turned out there was a bunch of lint in the belt motor connection. Would have never thought to check all the connections and I especially didn’t know about the switch on the motor. Everything works great now :)
Thank you for this video. Great description of circuit and logical flow of troubleshooting. As did another user below, we found that the relay on the ctrl board had come unsoldered. Was a very easy fix that we couldn't have done without your help. Thanks again!
I have this exact Frigidaire Dryer, Model number LEQ1452KS0. Turns on but no heat. After searching through numerous information videos I finally came across yours and what a relief. Not every Frigidaire dryer is the same and although I finally did get this one apart to check out the issue, finding the heating coil broken, it was trial and error as every video I say had different instruction on taking 'a Frigidaire dryer apart'. So far I know the heating coil needs replaced but I'm not sure about the control thermistor. Every other video says that is a fuse and if it reads Open with a multi-meter then it needs replaced. However, if it is actually a control thermistor then it wouldn't read Open at all.
Thank you Bill. This was a very informative video. I was tempted to just purchase a heater coil but by following your video the problem was quickly diagnosed as the heater relay. Thank you so much!
Darn! I fixed it!! Thanks to you Bill. I'm ready for a short career in appliance repair!!!
Appreciate your paced teaching, using the diagrams. I'm positive I can do this! Thanks much🎉
Bill excellent video. Opened my dryer up and found a broken heating coil. Performed the temp repair in your other video and the dryer is working great until my new heating element arrives. Much appreciated!
Thanks Bill! I busted out the multimeter and found no reading on my heating coil after running down your checklist. The unit I'm working on is a frigidaire stacked combo unit but I had little issue translating.
Thank you! Thank You! Thanks you!
I was about to go out to purchase a new dryer for boxing day until I saw your video.
It was the RELAY module that was not working properly and got it working again!
...and I scored a lot of brownie points with the wife :)
Happy Holidays!
+Richard Mctavish You are very welcome! Awesome Job!
+Bill Newberry
My reading on the heater relay and it didnt change says its open when I pressed start. I removed the control board and the connection to the ground cable looks fried. I assum I need a new board? Just had to be the most expensive part! Any thoughts?
@@eagle___empire3175 you can buy the relay for about 20 bucks. Buy a solder iron for cheap and replace it. Part number is printed on the relay
@@masternamer9399 6 years ago? lol Got a new dryer
@@eagle___empire3175 haha! I know, but maybe it'll help someone else who reads this
wish I'd found this video before I spent hours working this all out myself (and realizing I need a better multimeter). Probably don't need the new board i ordered! Very nicely explained - except you didnt show testing the small thermal limiter on the top of the back wall near the power strip.
So I've been going around and around for days trying to figure out why my dryer is not heating. I read the thermistor was supposed to have a range of 5 to 20Kohms and when I tested it using my cheap multimeter at a 20K setting it showed as open. I replaced the thermistor, testing the new one before installation (it had a resistance between 15- 20Kohms), and then found that my thermal fuse was also bad. After bypassing the thermal fuse, the dryer still would not fire. I was totally stuck because I thought that the old thermistor was open and the new one was tested and correct. You stating that the resistance on the thermistor should be between 50 and 100Kohms saved me. I retested the old one using a range of 200Kohms and realized it was not open. I put the old one back and it fired. Maybe I'll buy an autoranging multimeter next time but your video saved me on this one. Thanks!
This is the best video ever.
incredible explanation I am a technician here in Nigeria
I miss you Bill
Great video, but what ended up being the problem?
Thank you for this video! After following your trouble shooting steps I found that the relay was not working (step 2 in your trouble shooting) For fun I took the panel apart and found that one of the contacts on the board for the relay had cracked. A a quick solder and it was good as new!
It would be helpful to know when you are connected to power and when you should unplug.
Thanks Bill. Never thought about testing the heat coil to case for a short great video and love learning from you.
Well done video. Thanks for the excellent explanation.
Good clear information , I would do a durabilty video for your Milwaukee volt meter with uncensored commentary lol , Thanks
Very helpful video! I thought I had a bad heating coil but no break in it and I think it was just restricted air flow (?) - possible? I put everything back together and it runs normally EXCEPT the temperatur eof the back of the dryer during operation is about 180 degrees F - seems really hot to me! I measured using a digital thermometer (industrial type) measuring the back dryer panel, from the outside, during operation. Seems really hot to me. I had it on medium heat; I can't imagine what it would have been on high heat. It's an old (17 years old?) Fridgidare electric dryer. Thanks in advance!
Excellent video! it's great how you showed where everything is and how to test each componet. It was a huge help for me but unfortunately my dryer still doesnt dry. I replaced or checked all of the parts you mentioned and still no heat, If I rock the dryer side to side the heating element will come on but after a few minutes I hear a click and no more heat. could this be the centrifugal switch on the motor getting stuck or requiring too much force to open/stay open ?? I can move it with my finger and is showing .1 ohm. is there anything else that would cause a click then shut off? relay?
Do you have a video on how to replace the hearing element? Thx.
Wat do u think would cause the wires to the heat limit switch and the heat element to catch fire?
Hey Bill, I tested all these components and all were good except for heater relay. I ran test with drum out of machine though. Would that affect test at all. Not sure how it could, but just making sure.
Thanks for the informative video!
Hello Bill, great video and I appreciate your calm, coherent delivery and the methodical steps taken. Do you have a video covering this issue on a gas dryer? Or a different link on your channel? It's a 9 year old Frigidaire Affinity stack unit. Any help appreciated! Thanks again! Chas.
Please help I have stacked and I’m by myself what is the most common issue that could happened after replacing the start switch
now no these new frigidaire dryers elec style i have found a dual element style should be 20 ohm to heat, i just worked on one that had only half of that 10 ohms and that was the problem replaced it with new element that had what the factory called for which was 20 ohms of resistance and now it is hard for the current to past by it and gets very hot from the correct 20 ohm resistance and heats up great now... so i guess on the new style DUAL ELEMENTS i will have to look for that,,, now this is the first one i have seen like this low resistances... i hope this will help out... now this unit here our friend bill which passed away 5 years ago would be happy to read this and learn from me...
found heater relay bad solder joint on the control board. thank you
Went through your whole checklist and everything worked as shown checking with the multimeter. Dryer still has no heat! Removed all of the lint from the exhaust as well. Still no heat. Any ideas? I literally went through the checklist twice making sure I did everything as you mentioned.
Thanks!
You ever figure it out??
Do a continuity test on the thermal limiter/fuse www.appliance-repair-it.com/images/hilimitthermalfuse.jpg
Great video. Thanks.
Hi I replaced heating coil, the two round fuses u plug in by the top and the fuze by bottom blower. So all those are new. Thought maybe the fuses were bad so bought all new twice. Still nothing. So it's the relay from the control board or something on the motor. I don't have a meter. Can you please tell me how to change relay & the part on the motor & part numbers please? I've been trying so hard still coil won't heat.
+Bill Newberry
My reading on the heater relay and it didnt change says its open when I pressed start. I removed the control board and the connection to the ground cable looks fried. I assum I need a new board? Just had to be the most expensive part! Any thoughts?
Thanks for the video
Great video! Thanks a ton!
Bill (or anyone else), I was working through your checklist and finally got to the heating element and saw that the coil was busted. I decided to buy a new coil and restring it and when I got to working on that one of the ceramic clips crumbled on me and I need to replace it - probably best to just get a full new set of clips. Do you know what they are called or a part number where I can find them online or at a local big box store (probably should have just gone with the complete heating element assembly, but in for a penny in for a pound). Also, the unit is pretty old (Frigidaire FEX831FS2) and I had to use pliers and pull pretty hard to remove the terminals and one of the terminals broke off, and I figured I would just replace all four of those terminals that lead to or relate to the heating element since they looked a little worn. Is there a certain style or size for those terminals and is there a good video for replacing a wire terminal? Many thanks!
Thanks learned to test the fuses, relay, thermister.
We tested thre centrifugal switch and didn't get a .1 reading. Please let us know what part we'd need to order.
Thank you
I have tested everything and everything seems to check out. However, I have noticed that when the heating element seems to be trying to start back up, the heater relay is clicking SEVERAL times. If I put pressure on the wires, it seems to stop clicking and the heating element starts heating up again. Do you think it's just the relay and can I just replace that individually?
so what if your not getting proper voltage, what do you do then ?
So the issue was you weren't getting enough power from the cord? Since you weren't getting 240 from the red and white?
My FFLE3900UW0 Fridgeaire washer/dryer, the dryer runs for 5
Seconds and quits, error code 53, I’ve replaced the motor and the dryer control board and the thermistor. Could the washer control board be an issue. The washer works fine.
Hey Bill great video and very helpful. I went through the entire thing like you showed everything is good but the relay switch isn't reading any ohms. I've ordered two control boards and still the same problem. Is there anything else I can try before I give up. I've gotten an e10 error on both of the new control boards. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
Ever figure it out??
Nice video
Bill, very informative. Is there any way to safely bypass the heater relay? Is the heater relay included on the control board?
Great stuff Bill! But question. You say if R & W wire is 120v then dryer runs but no heat. You readings were the same as mine. Whats the fix? Thanks
I'm gon have to get a multimeter and try this. I changed thermistor and heating element and those 2 things on the heating element and still no heat
Everything on my dryer works except that part with the motor. But the dryer does spin so do I need to replace the motor to get the heat back?
I have a front loading Fridgedare Affinity AEQ6000ES2 that is not drying. There is an error message E5b. I don't have an
electrical ohm tester. Is there a way to figure out what needs to be replaced without the tester?
What do I do if I don’t get 240v from the red and black in the beginning? No popped breakers? Everything seems to be normal
Hi, I’m testing out the heater relay and it is 0.00. So that that mean it is bad and needs to be replaced?
No, it's bad if it says OL. Just replaced my heater unit using Bill's video.
Great video!!!
Is 77 good for the thermastat?
amazing video i m rly know how to fix by my self my dryer thx bill
My dryer runs but does not heat. I've found a lot of dust in the exhaust , I cleaned it up and tried again but still no heat. Control thermistor has 42 K ohm. is it good or should I replace it ?
I have a frigidaire fflg3900w. when I start the dryer it stops after 2-3 seconds. Any ideal whats wrong I changed the board the error code is bad heat sensing unit
Good job! I have a front load Fridigaire bought in 1992 and I was taking the top off and when balancing it Ipulled some of the wires loose(no disconnect points) now I am over my head. I have the wire diagram but it's hard to follow. This machine has one dial that controls all settings but has a separate start button. I have 6 wires that are loose. On the back of the dial all wires are black and stayed in place. The loose ones are yellow,white,purple, red, orange,black. HELP! Thank you for your time and advice. Model number WDSCL-W-1; wiring diagram number 146964.
I wish you would've showed how to get to that part. I can't find the screws to take it apart. Top or Bottom?
taake the top cover and after the front panel
My dryer is making a very loud noise..the heat is coming to top of dryer but not into the tub..
You can't touch the top of the dryer,I it gets so hot..but not drying clothes..what can it be?
hai bill, i know the dryer use 2 pole 240 volt circuit breaker , is it ok to use the one pole 240 volt , the difference circuit breaker,? thank you
good afternoon, i need your help about my frigidaire dryer model: FARE4044MWL, appears error pause everytime when i turn it ON. Please, I need a prompt answer, thank youuuu...
Здравствуйте. Вы бы посоветовали эту машинку к покупке? Спасибо.
Thanks , great instructive video..., though I Ma's dryer is a gas 06 fridgidaire with a hum... I replaced the st switch allowing drum run... yet no heat w/ periodic buzz/hum....hmmmm...😂
I plug my dryer in and it goes thru the start codes then nothing no dial lights no lights on display. push start button nothing happens. push start button and hold it downl about 20 secs it beeps 3 times, but still nothing. help me
Hi, How do you troubleshoot a gas dryer not working?
Can the heater relay be bypassed by the way you're awesome saved me a great deal of time
Cool I registered for the give away. I thought the video was awesome. was wondering about the electronics over engineered crap but I do like an Electrolux machine.
good stuff
Thanks for that info
Where can I find the part my Dryer tells me E 61 ??
Is this the same for the washer/dryer combo? ffle2022mw0
Thanks for sharing
the one and the only one
What if the heater relay is bad?
Ahhhh, ok... so what’s the number for the service guy again?
What if I have 120v gas dryers?
How are you going to skip the part where you took the drum out?
thank you so much
I replaced the start switch on the Frigidaire dryer and now it won’t heat
Still no heat. Replaced everything. I have 240V coming in. Every thing has continuity. Motor centrifugal switch, all sensors replaced, thermal fuse (both) and thermistor, Board relay not closing. Not in test mode either, its the only thing not working, replaced relay, still not working. replaced board still not working. What's left?
-I got it. Test mode showed the temperature at 174F. Therefor no heat required. I put the old sensor in and test mode shows 70F and heat is on. I must have received the wrong thermistor 20K vs 50K
Dude!!... Man thanks for posting this, I did the same thing and you saved me! Swapped out the thermistor just because it was cheap.. replaced with the old one and it works now! Went like a month with no dryer haha good to have it fixed
Great info but it stiil didn't get my dryer to heat. electro swith works and all the others check out on a contiunity test. inc element.still no heat . hmmmm lost
Did you ever figure it out??
Can't find high limit thermostat
screwed into the side of the heating element pan
How did you remove the rear door/panel? It seems to be welded to the machine.
sure it is welded, he removed the front panel and removed the drum
Luv your vids. Nice explanations. Even for an old turd ....:>}
Mine stops and all the lights are blinking
2:39 😂😂😂
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My dryer looks so wildly different this video hardly helps. My dryer is frigidaire. But every wire is a different color and a lot more wires...
Please help I have stacked and I’m by myself what is the most common issue that could happened after replacing the start switch