How To Tune A Barebow Step By Step | Barebow Bare Shaft Tuning with Olympic Medalist
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- So I finally nail down and take my time tuning my Gillo GT at 30 meters via bare shaft tuning. After adjusting my nocking points, my stiffness was way off and I needed to adjust there as well. Follow my barebow journey and learn how bare shaft tuning a barebow is more difficult then tuning a recurve.
Tuning for Performance book by Jake: www.jakekaminski.com
First Barebow Tuning Attempt: • Olympian Attempts to T...
Bare Shaft Tuning Video: • Bare Shaft Tuning a Re...
How To Tie Nocking Points: • How To Tie Nocking Poi...
Gillo Review: • Gillo GT 27" Riser Rev...
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That actually went quite well compared to what I usually go through. No cussing , no throwing the bow or threatening to quit shooting.... nice 👍
The rest point issue you had is why I switched to a Zniper rest, which has a wire that is perpendicular to the plunger and drops away at the shot. It has its own issues but I like it better. The ZT rest has an additional issue besides the height change: on high nocking point setups, the higher shaft angle creates an increased tendency to "wedge" itself in between the rest wire and the plunger.
Also, I believe the "stiffening" effect of raising nocking point comes from the fact that less direct energy is being sent to the arrow as it gets further up the string...not that it's shifting from vertical errors to horizontal.
I definitely like my Zniper rest. It was a bit finicky to get it set right initially, but it runs like a charm and got a fairly low nock height from it.
It was a blast watching you go through your bare shaft tuning. Very interesting you started at 30 yards with a crawl.....really interesting. Thanks for the hard work and having the heart of a teacher.
Very solid content as always. Without doubt the best archery channel available.
@11 minutes: For most stringwalkers it is actually the opposite in terms of spine reaction to different crawls, despite that you actually pull the arrow longer on long distance crawls. The reason is that there are two effects that have a thug of war.
1. The effective draw length. Works as you say and delivers more power into the arrow, therefore making the arrow act softer as you crawl less on the string.
2. The "dry fire part" of the string acceleration phase. The further down the string you crawl, the further from the string turn point the nock will be when you release. The string will always center around the nock and to get there, you have a mini dry fire basically from your fingers to the nock. This will cause an impact on the arrow and pre-bend it just at the start of the acceleration. Since the arrow is pre-bent it will also bend more in the normal flex pattern later in the shot. The arrow is a lot weaker as the string start to drive it forward in comparison to a straight arrow. This effect will, just as the effective draw length, vary on different crawls, however in the opposite direction in terms of spine behavior.
For most stringwalking archers, number 2 have a bigger impact on tune than number 1, meaning that the bareshaft will act stiffer on longer targets, also causing you to drift left (for a right hand archer) from about 40 meters and further.
This is incredible! Some people around me may spend months tweaking and cutting arrows when they go up in pondage or upgrade to better limbs. Will share this with them!
Jake, good to see that you've managed to get a barebow tuned. I use a Zniper rest to avoid the issues you had with the ZT. Your final set-up is very similar to what I have, with the exception that I use an even tiller. As with many here I also tune to 30m as a general rule. I did learn something new and that was to keep the set-up slightly stiff. I think that will be very handy when I shoot 3D.
I've just completed a new tune for the indoor season using Victory VXT V1's, 150gr point and 100mm XS Wings vanes.
You are doing big steps. Verry well. I like to se your BB journey.
Do not move nocking point only. If your bare shafts go high, change tiller too (make more negative) You should find some compromise between nocking point and tiller.
Good luck
Great progression in this vid. You definitely look like you are getting more comfortable with it! Glad that setup is capable of being tuned :)
Danke!
Hi Jake.
I cant thank you enough on this video journey you took us with. Most of little things were known already, lot were forgotten, but plenty got unveiled. Learning with you is pleasant experience.
I do have one request, if it is possible. can you make videos for tuning one piece bows that do not have options for addons? Im thinking a single video step by step with a playlist or pointers of previous videos with all necessary stuff you already covered- knock, arrows, self-diagnose... Im wondering if i missed something...
Olympian tunes the nuts off a barebow ! Awesome. And it's even got the Spigarelli rest from hell on it 🤣
I had to remove the bend (flatten it) and bend the whole rest wire forward to get the store resting in front of the button. To avoid the tab/ arrow angle change the arrow on button.
You difinetly know your stuff Jake 👍
Jake can you describe the negative tiller. My understanding that means your tiller measurement is 1/4” less the the bottom measurement which I’ve always been told was a no no. I’ve been running an even tiller at 50m because I’ve tuned for point on one serving strand under the nock. Thank you
Ray C thank you. My sentence should have read “ top tiller measurement is 1/4” less than the bottom measurement “. I’ve always been told either even (clarified by Jim Belcher) or slightly positive tiller.
Almost ready for Lancaster, aren´t you? ;)
I must have missed something. I'm somewhat familiar with adjusting the spine of the arrow. What is this about adjusting the "stiffness"?
Great video Jake! Very informative and easy to understand.
I had already followed your tuning series for recurve, but found that it didn't work so well for barebow. I thought it was just me not doing it right. As it turns out, I went through the same process as you laid out here. Probably more due to luck than good judgement.
In the UK and shooting NFAS barebow rules, we are not allowed string walking. One finger must be touching the nock at all times. I find that is a lot easier to tune because the hook and anchor are consistent at any distance. The hard part is judging the distance and deciding on where to put the arrow point.
I'm shooting a G2 riser, Uukha EVO2 limbs, Spigarelli ZT rest (with the hook still on) and Beiter button. So far, I love the setup and the only thing I may change is the rest. The problem is working out what to change it to. Any suggestions would be welcome as I'm finding it difficult to find something better than that rest. Would there be an advantage to cutting the hook off the ZT rest???
Thanks for the video. Tricky
I have a same riser with a uukha long limbs and my knock point height running about the same
What do you mean by ajustable nocking points ?
How do you set up a bow to have the point on be a specified distance?
Jake does this Barebow adjustment process also relate to standard recurve nocking point in any way?
I've been watching your channel now for a while and I have a question for you. Is it just me or are you having to fight a lot harder with this particular barebow model? I have the Gillo G1 and I don't remember having to work so hard on my setup. Anyway, just wondering if there is a compromise in having such a specialized limb pocket as the riser does. Plus it's an asymmetrical riser design to boot. Just wondering what your feeling about it in respect to the other bows you've tuned for barebow shooting...?
Yessssssss
ive asked this question before. Are you ever going to compete in babrebow?
Hi jake, its good to have u explaining the tuning process for barebow as i been searching for this for a while. Great information.
I already bought the AAE free flyte elite rest, can u make a review of it and its practicality to be used on barebow setup, thanks.
Sure I can do that. Its a simple rest to set-up and I have been using one for years.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery great! Looking forward to your next video!
Also i do like your beginner's barebow guide with your wife, keep up the good work, i'll root for u guys, from Malaysia!
Hi Jake, when you are tuning the stiffness, don't you add some tape in place of the vanes, to simulate the weight of the vanes ? According to your explainations about the nodes, it may be taken into account. At least in my own experience it is significant. I fixed my stiffness issues by using heavier nocks. (Besause i dont have a plunger ). Cheers
I only see about a 1" change in stiffness. I am using WAV vanes cut as a promax 2 shape. They are very light and don't affect the tune nearly at all. If I was using regular compound vanes I would consider doing so.
Hey Jake, quick question just looking for a general answer, then I can delve in. Shooting barebow recurve, I’m about 1” right of center at 20 yards, a little more at 27 yards, other than changing my sight picture of what I’m aiming at, can I do something to move it left. Right handed.
Add more plunger tension. Simple! Or you could be canting the bow excessively to the right.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery thank you
What nocks were you using?
Before you made all those changes you could have just raised your nocking point and then added tip weight That would have fixed not only your high arrows but also would weaken the arrow to bring it back to the right and then lastly would lower your point on. Could have fixed all of that with one simple twist on point weight.
I don’t shoot arrows with screw in points, yeah would have been easier, but not as accurate or ideal for over-all bow setup. For most it’s sufficient but for most doing string walking on barebow, we use break off points and you can’t glue them back on.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery I have used the break off points too and use hot glue stick low heat and I can remove them and replace them even with carbon arrows. You have to be careful not to heat them up too hot. I heat the tip up and place my fingers on the carbon arrow next to the point and heat it up until my fingers get hot then they will pull right out. Its actually pretty easy. You can also use twist on points on a couple arrows and then when you know what weight you need then make all your arrows with the break off ones. Your doing a great job- this is just another option
Have you tried traditional longbow? Not such much to tune except yourself ;). Would be interesting to see your thoughts of that.
Yeah, and it shows in the scores...
Traditional longbow love it.
Very interesting.
Have you tried testing a compound trigger for Olympic or barebow recurve?
👍👍👍🙏🎯🇮🇩
oh boy, these string walking rigs are loud...