A little tip for anyone wanting to do this, go to your local hardware store and just have them cut your key into the blank one that comes with the new fob. My local Ace Hardware charged me 5 bucks to do it and it saved me a lot of trouble.
@@schroeder7m78 they cut it for me for free. But it wouldn't start the car. Even though I had the computer piece right behind it like it was made to be. My case is cracked though.
I'm an automotive locksmith. FYI these types of flip keys mostly factory all end up breaking at the pin connection. They sell kits without the blade to swap everything. This guy did it a little different as he took a non flip blade and altered it. That's one way to do it. :) Most new cars now are push to start too. The fobs have an emergency blade in them. If you can think of any scenario of lost, broken in the ocean I have seen them all.
Yt algorithm is wild. I just did this to my 2008 Ford Fusion. I dont have any ford key blades on me right now so I had to improvise. I used an Xhorse Universal flip key, and sacraficed one of the spare keys. I even swapped over the little transponder chip.
Very cool but I don't think this is worth the trouble. If it was a something that could easily drop in, sure, but there's a lot of hardware needed to get things working, as well as cutting and modifying parts. Good video overall though; I really liked that you explained everything clearly and showed everything in detail.
its NOT a "metal magnetic piece"!. Its an RFID chip that works like those access cards you touch to open a door in a workplace or newer apartment, or the newer "tap&pay credit cards". What happens is that there is a coil in the ignition, that will modulate a "request code" and send to the key. A encryption key in that little piece, will encrypt the car's request and send back. The car will then encrypt his own "request code" with the same key, and they both should match for the car to start. The modulated signal also works like an transformer (like the transformer in a mobile charger) but it will power the chip over the air instead of via a metal core. This is what allows the car to start even if the key battery is flat, because the RFID chip is powered solely by the field of the reader (ignition cylinder coil).
Thanks for sharing the info about the RFID chip, I found out a lot more on this topic/this technology after making the video (more specifically ID cards for accessing buildings)
@@longsleevethong1457Try holding the little chip in your hand and hold it near the ignition cylinder while starting. It might just be that the position is a bit off so you may need to experiment a bit. Once you get the car going with the chip in hand, you have a general idea how it needs to be oriented inside key.
Also, just get the key blank cut and you’ll have an extra. Not saying this isn’t a good route to go. It’s just a little more involved than a lot of people would prefer.
I replaced my 07 Accords coin battery (CR1616) like 3 times and they all drained overnight, is the CR1620 battery better than the 1616 and will it last longer?
I think this one will work. I just ordered it and will try it out. Let you know in a few weeks. www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07FGD8B5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Received fob the next day. Slightly different than the one in the video but works perfectly. Do note, the pin that is shown on the video is tiny and I initially thought there wasn't one but there was. For the pin slot on the key I used a file edge instead of a drill bit as I didn't have a bit that small. Forced the pin back in with a bench vice (overkill but effective). Didn't have any 2 way tape for the strip so put a dab of caulking on it and set it in place. Works like a charm. Very happy with the results.
the two I bought didn't come with a Honda logo, I used the little metal Honda logo insert off the old key. I'd imagine these couldn't be purchased/sold with it because of counterfeit/copyright reasons.
I'm referring to the immobilizer chip when I say that (the small little black piece is a magnetized metal for RFID, the one i remove with a pin, it is the communication with your ignition switch/car computer) I'm not an electrical engineer so my terminology definitely isn't correct, but you need to put that part into the new key for it to work. (that small piece is the signal/data needed for the computer to start the engine).
also if you were referring to the blue pieces, I put into the housing because that essentially acted like a spacer to keep that key less entry portion and the RFID piece from moving around it doesn't do anything other than that. sorry just now made sense what you were asking about
@@gregr9186 the keyhole compartment on your car has a reader and it will read that small chip (transponder) inside the key, then it will allow the car to start. Purpose of this while system is to protect anyone from stealing your car even if they copy the physical key. Without the chip to match what's inside the keyhole=no start.
@@CCG0D 1: The immobilizer system is NOT inside the keyhole, then it would be easy for the thieves to bypass. Its in the ECU. The thing in the keyhole is just a coil of wire. It works like those readers outside some security buildings, where you tap a credit-card sized card to unlock the door. The thing at the door is just a reader, it does usually not do any decision about entry or not. The scanned card is simply send to a "controller" that is located on the secure side, that takes the decision of entry or not. (There exist systems where the decision is solely done in the reader, these are cheaper and usually used for low-security doors where you want the same cards as your high security doors to work, however, those systems are less secure as you only have to jimmy the reader off the wall and then short 2 cables to hotwire the lock, there also exist medium-security systems where there is a tamper switch in the reader, that will electronically disable the lock if you try jimmying off the reader from the wall to hotwire it) 2: The immobilizer system is NOT there to deter or prevent copied keys, even if it actually do it too. The immobilizer system is there to prevent someone from hotwiring the car, which means to break away the ignition cylinder and just short the wires that goes to the ignition. Or just use a large ass screwdriver and a plumbing wrench and just forrce the ignition lock to turn.
nope I've had that light on for more than a year at this point. It's not related (check engine light was on before I did this mod, still driving this car too with no issue), I've got an OBD II code reader and looked it up the check engine light had something to do with an oxygen/air sensor.
It doesn’t work for mind. Let me tell you why. When I transferred my old key to new key. The transponder chip was way back and when i start the car it cannot detect the ship. It won’t start.
@@donttrip8314 I found a really nice, clean 05 Acura TL. I'll be parting out the Accord. It sucks because I just finished installing a touch screen with two amps, a sub and all new speakers as well as always live USB charging ports for the rear passengers. I also had just purchased all the LEDs for interior and exterior. So goes life. But I'm alive and well so I'm thankful for that.
A warning to anyone wanting to do this. If you like the key/hand position you use to turn the factory key forward in the ignition cylinder, this replacement switch blade key fob turns that insertion position 90 degrees. I found it rather uncomfortable when using this new fob, because my hand/finger position felt awkward. It bothered me so much that I went back to the stock key fob.
@@ohreally4752 he means when you insert the key into the ignition the part of the key you turn with your fingers/hand when the key is in the ignition is turned 90 degrees, it's at a more awkward position than the original only when you go to turn on the car/turn the key to the ignition position in the keyhole. that might not bother most people though? its preference i suppose
I had this same awkward feeling also when I upgraded my key fob to flip style key such as the one in this video. On my 04 Lexus gs300 the ignition is on the dash forward facing, so the shape of the flip makes it feel clunky while turning on and off.
If you're cutting key copies of the accord, I'm assuming I just buy the CRV fob and skip the whole process? The Key Blade looks identical. Also thanks for the vid, was looking for just this mod and didn't know if it was even possible.
The size of the cut key is nearly the same/identical yeah, except for the small end portion where it's attached to the plastic housing of the fob. You should be able to just get a key fob cut if they will provide doing that, you still need the small metal magnetic piece though or the car wont start
A little tip for anyone wanting to do this, go to your local hardware store and just have them cut your key into the blank one that comes with the new fob. My local Ace Hardware charged me 5 bucks to do it and it saved me a lot of trouble.
Local ace said they just cut keys bought from them
@@wesfields9322 Hm. that’s weird. i actually went to ace as well and they cut it for me
@@schroeder7m78 they cut it for me for free. But it wouldn't start the car. Even though I had the computer piece right behind it like it was made to be. My case is cracked though.
My local ace said they don't do Lazer cut sadly
Yea my homedepot and ace cant make those cuts. Only regular style cuts. Honda dealer said they wont cut it because the metal is cheap
I'm an automotive locksmith. FYI these types of flip keys mostly factory all end up breaking at the pin connection. They sell kits without the blade to swap everything. This guy did it a little different as he took a non flip blade and altered it. That's one way to do it. :) Most new cars now are push to start too. The fobs have an emergency blade in them. If you can think of any scenario of lost, broken in the ocean I have seen them all.
This didn’t work on my 2003. Even with the rfid. It’s not working.
Yt algorithm is wild. I just did this to my 2008 Ford Fusion. I dont have any ford key blades on me right now so I had to improvise. I used an Xhorse Universal flip key, and sacraficed one of the spare keys. I even swapped over the little transponder chip.
Very cool but I don't think this is worth the trouble. If it was a something that could easily drop in, sure, but there's a lot of hardware needed to get things working, as well as cutting and modifying parts. Good video overall though; I really liked that you explained everything clearly and showed everything in detail.
Definitely worth it for a 7th gen reliable accord. Keyword: reliable as in ideal condition
its NOT a "metal magnetic piece"!. Its an RFID chip that works like those access cards you touch to open a door in a workplace or newer apartment, or the newer "tap&pay credit cards". What happens is that there is a coil in the ignition, that will modulate a "request code" and send to the key. A encryption key in that little piece, will encrypt the car's request and send back. The car will then encrypt his own "request code" with the same key, and they both should match for the car to start. The modulated signal also works like an transformer (like the transformer in a mobile charger) but it will power the chip over the air instead of via a metal core. This is what allows the car to start even if the key battery is flat, because the RFID chip is powered solely by the field of the reader (ignition cylinder coil).
Thanks for sharing the info about the RFID chip, I found out a lot more on this topic/this technology after making the video (more specifically ID cards for accessing buildings)
My new key doesn’t work and I put the rfid chip in the new key just like it was in the old. What’s the deal with that ya think?
@@longsleevethong1457Try holding the little chip in your hand and hold it near the ignition cylinder while starting. It might just be that the position is a bit off so you may need to experiment a bit.
Once you get the car going with the chip in hand, you have a general idea how it needs to be oriented inside key.
@@sebastiannielsen I’ve tried. I’ve tried holding the other keys up to the dash also
@@sebastiannielsen I’ve tried. I guess it’s in the wrong position since it’s about 90° out of rotation
Exactly what I was looking for my 06 civic
Also, just get the key blank cut and you’ll have an extra. Not saying this isn’t a good route to go. It’s just a little more involved than a lot of people would prefer.
Awesome job!, do you want to fix mine ? I’ve the same issue hahaha…
Where you buy the new case for key? I buy one but doesn't work
Could I get the new key cut and just take my old chip and buttons and just put it in the new one?
Yep, not sure what a locksmith or a dealership would charge but they would probably cut a new blank key.
What is the blue wrap being put on the immobilizer,foam?
Serves no purpose other than to keep it in place
does this start your car without being in the car ?
"hi5, namaste" cool video buddy:-*
Easiest and best way too do this, without any of the hassle, go and get a new key cut. It's that simple and cheap.
What if I send you my spare key could you do it for me ?
I replaced my 07 Accords coin battery (CR1616) like 3 times and they all drained overnight, is the CR1620 battery better than the 1616 and will it last longer?
Thanks for the vid. but unfortunately I couldn't find this crv remote
I think this one will work. I just ordered it and will try it out. Let you know in a few weeks. www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07FGD8B5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Received fob the next day. Slightly different than the one in the video but works perfectly. Do note, the pin that is shown on the video is tiny and I initially thought there wasn't one but there was. For the pin slot on the key I used a file edge instead of a drill bit as I didn't have a bit that small. Forced the pin back in with a bench vice (overkill but effective). Didn't have any 2 way tape for the strip so put a dab of caulking on it and set it in place. Works like a charm. Very happy with the results.
Link to where I can get it? I see some on eBay but I want to make sure it has the honda logo on the new upgrade
the two I bought didn't come with a Honda logo, I used the little metal Honda logo insert off the old key. I'd imagine these couldn't be purchased/sold with it because of counterfeit/copyright reasons.
@@caseykreicar great. Thank you!
@@caseykreicar what is the size of drill bit?
Please do not use sharp objects when removing the transponder chip.
I went to my local locksmith he had this key case with him..
I bought it completely for 70AED or $20
It also has the Honda logo as well..
Is it really worth it?
I can only find the cover with no buttons or key to remove if you post the link to where you got it I’ll subscribe to your channel. Thank you!!
Why do you need a metal magnetic part ?
Does it enhance the immobilizer signals ?
I'm referring to the immobilizer chip when I say that (the small little black piece is a magnetized metal for RFID, the one i remove with a pin, it is the communication with your ignition switch/car computer) I'm not an electrical engineer so my terminology definitely isn't correct, but you need to put that part into the new key for it to work. (that small piece is the signal/data needed for the computer to start the engine).
also if you were referring to the blue pieces, I put into the housing because that essentially acted like a spacer to keep that key less entry portion and the RFID piece from moving around it doesn't do anything other than that. sorry just now made sense what you were asking about
Why would you want to do this?
@@gregr9186 the keyhole compartment on your car has a reader and it will read that small chip (transponder) inside the key, then it will allow the car to start. Purpose of this while system is to protect anyone from stealing your car even if they copy the physical key. Without the chip to match what's inside the keyhole=no start.
@@CCG0D
1: The immobilizer system is NOT inside the keyhole, then it would be easy for the thieves to bypass. Its in the ECU. The thing in the keyhole is just a coil of wire. It works like those readers outside some security buildings, where you tap a credit-card sized card to unlock the door. The thing at the door is just a reader, it does usually not do any decision about entry or not. The scanned card is simply send to a "controller" that is located on the secure side, that takes the decision of entry or not.
(There exist systems where the decision is solely done in the reader, these are cheaper and usually used for low-security doors where you want the same cards as your high security doors to work, however, those systems are less secure as you only have to jimmy the reader off the wall and then short 2 cables to hotwire the lock, there also exist medium-security systems where there is a tamper switch in the reader, that will electronically disable the lock if you try jimmying off the reader from the wall to hotwire it)
2: The immobilizer system is NOT there to deter or prevent copied keys, even if it actually do it too. The immobilizer system is there to prevent someone from hotwiring the car, which means to break away the ignition cylinder and just short the wires that goes to the ignition. Or just use a large ass screwdriver and a plumbing wrench and just forrce the ignition lock to turn.
i see a check engine on dashboard. This is caused because of the keyfob modification?
nope I've had that light on for more than a year at this point. It's not related (check engine light was on before I did this mod, still driving this car too with no issue), I've got an OBD II code reader and looked it up the check engine light had something to do with an oxygen/air sensor.
It doesn’t work for mind. Let me tell you why. When I transferred my old key to new key. The transponder chip was way back and when i start the car it cannot detect the ship. It won’t start.
I have the same problem, did you find a fix ?
How to compare / connecting the remote system bro?
Link to fob?
bought 1 of these...why mines got no pin ...to take out...
What size tool/rod did you use to drive out the pin? I am having trouble getting the pin out.
Hope you got it fixed
@@donttrip8314 I totaled the car a few weeks ago, so it doesn't matter. For now. Thank you though. It is appreciated.
@@andrewcuthbertson3561 aww sucks it hear about that man ! Hope you get a another car
@@donttrip8314 I found a really nice, clean 05 Acura TL. I'll be parting out the Accord. It sucks because I just finished installing a touch screen with two amps, a sub and all new speakers as well as always live USB charging ports for the rear passengers. I also had just purchased all the LEDs for interior and exterior. So goes life. But I'm alive and well so I'm thankful for that.
I am missing the 5 speed stick. But the TL has the "manual" shift feature...
A warning to anyone wanting to do this. If you like the key/hand position you use to turn the factory key forward in the ignition cylinder, this replacement switch blade key fob turns that insertion position 90 degrees. I found it rather uncomfortable when using this new fob, because my hand/finger position felt awkward. It bothered me so much that I went back to the stock key fob.
elaborate please
@@ohreally4752 he means when you insert the key into the ignition the part of the key you turn with your fingers/hand when the key is in the ignition is turned 90 degrees, it's at a more awkward position than the original only when you go to turn on the car/turn the key to the ignition position in the keyhole. that might not bother most people though? its preference i suppose
I've had a 2008 VW, and like many European Cars of the time, had a switch blade fob. Works without issue.
I had this same awkward feeling also when I upgraded my key fob to flip style key such as the one in this video. On my 04 Lexus gs300 the ignition is on the dash forward facing, so the shape of the flip makes it feel clunky while turning on and off.
No pin on the fob I bought.
You can pay a locksmith $15 to cut that key so you don't have to mess around making it fit
Better done with the edge of the file than a drill bit.
If you're cutting key copies of the accord, I'm assuming I just buy the CRV fob and skip the whole process? The Key Blade looks identical. Also thanks for the vid, was looking for just this mod and didn't know if it was even possible.
The size of the cut key is nearly the same/identical yeah, except for the small end portion where it's attached to the plastic housing of the fob. You should be able to just get a key fob cut if they will provide doing that, you still need the small metal magnetic piece though or the car wont start
I ran across this video...my advice...don't fix something thats working completely ok.😂
Man my key didnt have a metal strip inside i have a 2008 accord
My 8th gen si didnt either,
Prolly in the main circuit board of the transponder in the fob
4 cylinder coupe lol, still nice
Great video!!! Gave me the confidence to do it myself. Worked for 3 of my keys and saved me a couple hundred $$$. Thanks for sharing!!!
Awwwwwe man why you break the plastic on the key, all you have to do is push the key up out the peg thats holding it
can i just pay you to do this for me lol
Its so bulky though
Not worth to modify at all.
better option is a Smartkey case, which has a longest lasting Usb rechargeable lithium battery inside.
Stock key is better though.
All this work for an inferior key design
basically went from a 2004 style key to a 2012 style key
Why????
FYI, The best and easiest way to "upgrade" your Honda key is to buy a better car.
Not worth it
It's definitely not for everyone to try
That's dumb. Flip keys are gay.
Mom's gotta 11 crv I believe and has the older shitty lookin key, would be cool to upgrade