I keep my 04 VTX 1300 like new and completely pampered. If taken care of, the engine on these bikes can easily achieve over 500K miles without even trying. All the subtle lines and jokes you come up with I easily recognize, we must be of the same vintage Bud. I'm in the greater Orlando area so my VTX is still in "like new" condition, I'm diggin' your shop, looks like a great place to spend time in.
Thanks. Drop me a line if you’re down my way near Bradenton, drop by and enjoy the heat. Summertime my days are considerably shorter out there even with mediocre AC and fans.
@@MotoRestoFL Will do! I slow down during the Summer too, not enough air movement with all the heat and humidity. Wish I had a nice air conditioned garage but I do have fans but by noon it just gets unbearable. Take care and thanks for writing back!
Love that first start after fixing some things and the result is perfect purring. A 210 jet from his FP kit in there will make it 100% I bet. Nice work, and keep the VTX's coming.
Jetting is such a huge part of this game, yes there are SO many other things that have to be in spec, but a carb with the wrong jets will never run right, when I bought one of my bikes it had the K&Ns as an upgrade but the bike had weak power, when I tore it apart the jetting was extremly off, when I found the right sizes for this bike it transformed the power to something totaly different, the bike ripped,,,,,nice videos they are enjoyable
Thanks. I may see this one again in the future for either tuning it for another type of performance intake or just to go back to stock. Customer wants to do that stock option but can’t find the used parts on eBay. I’ve looked too, they are elusive.
VTX indeed. I’d trade pulling my vf carbs for that one carb any day. Amazing how complicated carbs got in a short period of time because of emissions. Phew I’ll avoid these bikes thank you. Great video as ever, I always learn something from watching. Thanks.
OK, you got me there on the VF's. My point was, if the Mothership used 1" longer coolant lines to that carburetor heat gizmo, maybe even 1/2" longer, it'd be wicked easier to R/R that carb.
I was thinking about pulling the carbs on my '94 Magna once. Then I watched a how-to video. Then I had a drink and laid down until the thought went away. God bless Seafoam - I treat that bike like a chew toy and it always, always starts, (cold starts might need a touch of choke), and runs beautifully, and all I do is throw a glug in every other tank.
@@mbp2112 I did a set maybe two years ago down the road at my neighbor's Harley shop (he has a big setup) a regular customer begged him to take the V4 which he promptly called me in for. I snatched the carbs off quite easily. No worse than the earlier VF's. Had to use the strap method to coax the rack back in, but even that wasn't so bad.
You have definitely made me sure I want to go FI on my next bike. I have an 05 vtx 1300. My question is why didn't they make the 1300 FI like the 1800? Anyway stuck with a carb for now. and all I have here are a bunch of shade tree mechs. No shop will touch a bike over 10 yrs old here.
Well, there's two schools of thought with what you wrote. Yes, FI eliminates a whole bunch of maintenances and repair issues. But, the cost is, when they fail, they fail big. If you're on a long trip out of state and a carb starts leaking, you can fix that almost on the side of the road assuming it's something simple like say, some dirt in the float valve that snuck through. On the FI variant with computers, sensors, CAN bus and sensitive electronics, one little sensor goes out like a cam positioning sensor, the bike won't run, it'll just drop dead where it sits, at least the ones I am familiar with. Automobiles have "limp modes" where a strategy in the PCM defaults if it has a sensor loss, but I'm not sure that's the case with bikes. So, yea, they're better for not having fuel issues, but remember, even an FI bike has to have a throttle body or bodies. They need some care as well, there are rubber bits attached to, or they attach to the engine with carb holder type rubber parts, band clamps, etc. My Concours 14 would fire off a fuel injection error once in a while, it's a fairly common thing with the C14, come to find. Doesn't do anything, bike doesn't hiccup but it's symptomatic of something at least temporarily, going out of range. When I did the valve clearance adjustment (replaced shims) I also re-synchronized the throttle bodies -- yes you need to do that on multi-cylinder FI bikes -- assuming more than one body... and the code disappeared. So just like carb bikes, like in-line fours, there's still maintenance to be done. I did my Manga carbs 6 years ago. Run the thing nearly every day locally, grocery grabber, etc. Never had had to go back in there. If Carbs are used in the manner they were designed and not either fussed with by the inexperienced or, left to corrode with fuel in them, they are quite reliable.
Hello, I enjoyed this video. I have same intake on my 06 Vtx1300c, am running FP stage 3, 60 slow, 4th clip no washer, and about to drop down from 215 to 210 for main just to get a bit more range than 110 b4 reserve other than that it screams.. BTW am in SW Ohio 500ft above sea level.
Thanks. I do what dealers and other shops won't or can't because of volume. It's not always about time, it's about quality. Unfortunately, under the flat-rate system, quality will always suffer over profit. I do reference flat-rate when I can find it in the reference I subscribe to (doesn't cover everything) but only as a reference. Cheers.
I have a 1300R. I was servicing the bike and when i tried to change the breather filter I was having issues with the screws in the top. What size are those? thanks in advance for all of the information. Your video's are truly helpful.
my 05 vtx 1300 has this same setup... runs like crap too falls on its face barely idles backfires all sorts of junk... ive got a carb rebuild kit on the way... which way do you turn the idle adjustment to bring the idle up? also was the mixture screw good at two turns? and where can i get one of those easy adjustment adapters to adjust it with the carb on the bike?
Idle knob turns clockwise to raise the idle. Yea you can buy the pilot screw adaptors online but I’m not sure where. I have seen them. Just do a Google search.
@@MotoRestoFL awesome thanks for the info... is there a trick to reset idle screw like the pilot screw to a more typical setting? and i found a pilot screw tool a little pricey but idc at this point just want my bike running... Glensvtxgarage i think it was called... like 50$
@@MotoRestoFL what i mean is there a way to turn it if its too high or too low so that it will be more in a starting location... like the pilot screw turn it till it stops back it out 1 1/2 turns or 2 turns and that should get it in the neighborhood of correct adjust from there... can you do that with the idle screw as well? just incase it got messed with by someone who didnt know any better
@@angelusmortis3256 No. you adjust it to suit desired idle RPM. There’s no number of turns in on that adjustment. No difference than an idle speed screw on a lawn mower.
99% of the time, when you install an aftermarket exhaust and an aftermarket air cleaner, you need a richer main jet, a richer pilot jet, and you need to turn the pilot screw out a bit. It is also common to either replace the needle with a thinner one, or shim the stock needle with small washers. Most engines that new are already jetted way too lean even with the stock pipes and air cleaner Those coolant lines that connect to the carburetor are just there to supposedly warm up the carb float bowls faster. I've found a setup like that on a couple of bikes, I just removed the hoses from the carburetor, then plugged/capped the coolant connections at the cylinders. I try to remove every single piece of emissions crap from motorcycle engines. One thing I've never seen is a TPS on a carbureted bike. Why would a carbureted bike need a TPS? Those are for EFI, something I don't mess with. Maybe it has something to do with the ignition advance? That round thing with 2 screws on the side is called a coasting enricher. It is designed to provide more fuel to prevent a lean backfire on trailing throttle. Ethanol tends to melt those diaphragms. Ethanol also probably destroyed that air cleaner adaptor gasket. That extension for the pilot screw was a great idea. You can get aftermarket thumbscrew type pilot screws for most Mikuni carbs, but they are still right up close to the carb body. There are a lot more aftermarket parts for Mikuni carbs than Keihin carbs for some reason. That monstrosity makes the non CV Amal Concentric MK1 carb on my Royal Enfield Bullet look like a real beauty.
Many, many carbureted bikes/ATV's have TPS's. Couple of examples, Suzuki's DRZ400S, Bandits from the late 90's early 2000's, many others as well. It's purpose is to signal the spark unit or primitive ECU (whatever it has) to advance the timing. There is no mechanical or other type of advance mechanism. So lacking any other sensors commonly seen nowadays with EFI (such as cam, crank positioning and such) that's how they did that. Removing emissions equipment is not something I would officially sanction because it's illegal -- not that I disagree with you in the least. Thanks for watching and commenting.
![No more vacuum fuel pump problems! GY6 Won’t start: FIX! [PROBLD PULSER UNIT]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_k3jgNswCU/mqdefault.jpg)
I keep my 04 VTX 1300 like new and completely pampered. If taken care of, the engine on these bikes can easily achieve over 500K miles without even trying. All the subtle lines and jokes you come up with I easily recognize, we must be of the same vintage Bud. I'm in the greater Orlando area so my VTX is still in "like new" condition, I'm diggin' your shop, looks like a great place to spend time in.
Thanks. Drop me a line if you’re down my way near Bradenton, drop by and enjoy the heat. Summertime my days are considerably shorter out there even with mediocre AC and fans.
@@MotoRestoFL Will do! I slow down during the Summer too, not enough air movement with all the heat and humidity. Wish I had a nice air conditioned garage but I do have fans but by noon it just gets unbearable. Take care and thanks for writing back!
Love that first start after fixing some things and the result is perfect purring. A 210 jet from his FP kit in there will make it 100% I bet. Nice work, and keep the VTX's coming.
Jetting is such a huge part of this game, yes there are SO many other things that have to be in spec, but a carb with the wrong jets will never run right, when I bought one of my bikes it had the K&Ns as an upgrade but the bike had weak power, when I tore it apart the jetting was extremly off, when I found the right sizes for this bike it transformed the power to something totaly different, the bike ripped,,,,,nice videos they are enjoyable
Thanks. I may see this one again in the future for either tuning it for another type of performance intake or just to go back to stock. Customer wants to do that stock option but can’t find the used parts on eBay. I’ve looked too, they are elusive.
Man, that VTX has seen better days. I'm surprised the owner even brought it into the shop. It looks like it was parked outside since '05.
Said it's his beater bike. But I think it's his only bike. lol
Buen trabajo y muy bien esplicado lo felicito es bueno ver personas que esplican como es para poder resolverle al que busca ayuda
VTX indeed. I’d trade pulling my vf carbs for that one carb any day. Amazing how complicated carbs got in a short period of time because of emissions. Phew I’ll avoid these bikes thank you. Great video as ever, I always learn something from watching. Thanks.
OK, you got me there on the VF's. My point was, if the Mothership used 1" longer coolant lines to that carburetor heat gizmo, maybe even 1/2" longer, it'd be wicked easier to R/R that carb.
I was thinking about pulling the carbs on my '94 Magna once. Then I watched a how-to video. Then I had a drink and laid down until the thought went away.
God bless Seafoam - I treat that bike like a chew toy and it always, always starts, (cold starts might need a touch of choke), and runs beautifully, and all I do is throw a glug in every other tank.
@@mbp2112 I did a set maybe two years ago down the road at my neighbor's Harley shop (he has a big setup) a regular customer begged him to take the V4 which he promptly called me in for. I snatched the carbs off quite easily. No worse than the earlier VF's. Had to use the strap method to coax the rack back in, but even that wasn't so bad.
You have definitely made me sure I want to go FI on my next bike. I have an 05 vtx 1300. My question is why didn't they make the 1300 FI like the 1800? Anyway stuck with a carb for now. and all I have here are a bunch of shade tree mechs. No shop will touch a bike over 10 yrs old here.
Well, there's two schools of thought with what you wrote. Yes, FI eliminates a whole bunch of maintenances and repair issues. But, the cost is, when they fail, they fail big. If you're on a long trip out of state and a carb starts leaking, you can fix that almost on the side of the road assuming it's something simple like say, some dirt in the float valve that snuck through. On the FI variant with computers, sensors, CAN bus and sensitive electronics, one little sensor goes out like a cam positioning sensor, the bike won't run, it'll just drop dead where it sits, at least the ones I am familiar with. Automobiles have "limp modes" where a strategy in the PCM defaults if it has a sensor loss, but I'm not sure that's the case with bikes. So, yea, they're better for not having fuel issues, but remember, even an FI bike has to have a throttle body or bodies. They need some care as well, there are rubber bits attached to, or they attach to the engine with carb holder type rubber parts, band clamps, etc. My Concours 14 would fire off a fuel injection error once in a while, it's a fairly common thing with the C14, come to find. Doesn't do anything, bike doesn't hiccup but it's symptomatic of something at least temporarily, going out of range. When I did the valve clearance adjustment (replaced shims) I also re-synchronized the throttle bodies -- yes you need to do that on multi-cylinder FI bikes -- assuming more than one body... and the code disappeared. So just like carb bikes, like in-line fours, there's still maintenance to be done. I did my Manga carbs 6 years ago. Run the thing nearly every day locally, grocery grabber, etc. Never had had to go back in there. If Carbs are used in the manner they were designed and not either fussed with by the inexperienced or, left to corrode with fuel in them, they are quite reliable.
Hello, I enjoyed this video. I have same intake on my 06 Vtx1300c, am running FP stage 3, 60 slow, 4th clip no washer, and about to drop down from 215 to 210 for main just to get a bit more range than 110 b4 reserve other than that it screams.. BTW am in SW Ohio 500ft above sea level.
I've got a 2002 VTX 1800 with 23,000. Love it and I feel really bad for this one as it looks to be very poorly maintained.
Great video, new sub. You're very thorough!
Thanks. I do what dealers and other shops won't or can't because of volume. It's not always about time, it's about quality. Unfortunately, under the flat-rate system, quality will always suffer over profit. I do reference flat-rate when I can find it in the reference I subscribe to (doesn't cover everything) but only as a reference. Cheers.
Great Video, love the x,s
I have the opposite problem, My VTX is way over jetted so I make up for it with air/fuel mixture adjustments
I have a 1300R. I was servicing the bike and when i tried to change the breather filter I was having issues with the screws in the top. What size are those? thanks in advance for all of the information. Your video's are truly helpful.
I’m not sure I understand breather filter. You mean the air filter?
What solution did you use in ultrasonic to clean carb? That is night and day difference
About a 10-20% simple green to water mix.
Subbed. Great content!
Excellent channel..
my 05 vtx 1300 has this same setup... runs like crap too falls on its face barely idles backfires all sorts of junk... ive got a carb rebuild kit on the way... which way do you turn the idle adjustment to bring the idle up? also was the mixture screw good at two turns? and where can i get one of those easy adjustment adapters to adjust it with the carb on the bike?
Idle knob turns clockwise to raise the idle. Yea you can buy the pilot screw adaptors online but I’m not sure where. I have seen them. Just do a Google search.
@@MotoRestoFL awesome thanks for the info... is there a trick to reset idle screw like the pilot screw to a more typical setting? and i found a pilot screw tool a little pricey but idc at this point just want my bike running... Glensvtxgarage i think it was called... like 50$
@@angelusmortis3256 I’m not sure what you mean. The idle RPM screw is a knob you turn. Should be on the left side.
@@MotoRestoFL what i mean is there a way to turn it if its too high or too low so that it will be more in a starting location... like the pilot screw turn it till it stops back it out 1 1/2 turns or 2 turns and that should get it in the neighborhood of correct adjust from there... can you do that with the idle screw as well? just incase it got messed with by someone who didnt know any better
@@angelusmortis3256 No. you adjust it to suit desired idle RPM. There’s no number of turns in on that adjustment. No difference than an idle speed screw on a lawn mower.
Nice work !
Thanks. Cheers.
Great videos
Please more vtx videos whenever you can
99% of the time, when you install an aftermarket exhaust and an aftermarket air cleaner, you need a richer main jet, a richer pilot jet, and you need to turn the pilot screw out a bit. It is also common to either replace the needle with a thinner one, or shim the stock needle with small washers. Most engines that new are already jetted way too lean even with the stock pipes and air cleaner
Those coolant lines that connect to the carburetor are just there to supposedly warm up the carb float bowls faster. I've found a setup like that on a couple of bikes, I just removed the hoses from the carburetor, then plugged/capped the coolant connections at the cylinders. I try to remove every single piece of emissions crap from motorcycle engines.
One thing I've never seen is a TPS on a carbureted bike. Why would a carbureted bike need a TPS? Those are for EFI, something I don't mess with. Maybe it has something to do with the ignition advance? That round thing with 2 screws on the side is called a coasting enricher. It is designed to provide more fuel to prevent a lean backfire on trailing throttle. Ethanol tends to melt those diaphragms. Ethanol also probably destroyed that air cleaner adaptor gasket. That extension for the pilot screw was a great idea. You can get aftermarket thumbscrew type pilot screws for most Mikuni carbs, but they are still right up close to the carb body. There are a lot more aftermarket parts for Mikuni carbs than Keihin carbs for some reason. That monstrosity makes the non CV Amal Concentric MK1 carb on my Royal Enfield Bullet look like a real beauty.
Many, many carbureted bikes/ATV's have TPS's. Couple of examples, Suzuki's DRZ400S, Bandits from the late 90's early 2000's, many others as well. It's purpose is to signal the spark unit or primitive ECU (whatever it has) to advance the timing. There is no mechanical or other type of advance mechanism. So lacking any other sensors commonly seen nowadays with EFI (such as cam, crank positioning and such) that's how they did that.
Removing emissions equipment is not something I would officially sanction because it's illegal -- not that I disagree with you in the least. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have a vtx1300c 2004 hesitation on extreme acceleration any ideas
Accelerator pump. Maybe. Hard to say.
Part 2 sweet
Very troubling exercise 😂
Man that thing must have been left outside... every surface is pitted and rusted.
Mine is stressing me so bad. Im crying
A throttle position sensor on a carbed engine? Why?Coolant running through the carb?
Just Honda things, I guess.
one word: emissions.