The glove trick is ingenious. What a simple, practical idea. I would have never thought of this, I usually am looking for a convenient sized can in my recycling to make a cap.
lol I used a rubber latex glove around the intake, a hose through one of the fingers and ecig smoke through the hose. Worked like a charm and managed to trace 2 leaks - one around the back of the intake and another around the valve cover gasket bolt. Managed to repair both
Thank you for the explanation, much appreciated as always! This is an incredibly helpful tool to have for most car owners if not all as different components are deteriorating over time. Always a nice feeling to have a good running engine🏎️🏍️🚜
I know I have a leak on mine but I was looking at the SDT-206 on Amazon. It has safety and adjustments. Just a big price tag however my wife’s new Jeep but it is not cover under the extended ‘bumper to bumper warranty’ which is bs. They want $300 to test it. I don’t like my air compressor and the SDT-206 has a pump of it own and is less scary with built in timers. But $300 to the shop for on time or $300 for a tool I can use on all 5 of my rides and family’s cars too.
One downside of the one I’m using is I don’t think it can be used on fuel evap system safely. You need a special liquid vapor so as not to ignite anything- yikes. That being said the better $300 machine sounds better in the long run!
Augh I wish I ran across your video before I bought a similar smoke kit on eBay. It didn’t come assembled or even had the fluid included and it cost more too lol
Thanks for the content. Did you ever try sealing rubber joints with a clamp, or an o -ring or if split repair crack with RTV silicone sealer? I don’t usually throw parts at such a small leak.
You could put RTV on a crack to get you by in a pinch. But the rubber hardens over 10,20,30 years and cracks. Best practice is to replace the rubber boots all together.
So For people like me who are broke from trying to fix their Bimmer....You can go to a plumbing supply store and get a leak detection smoke bomb and skip the heating element and the mineral oil, just get a clean paint can and run some fittings. Caveat: Not sure the smoke bomb wont damage anything in the intake.
Interesting idea, I've heard others mention cigars etc. I think the aftermarket kits for $65 are quite affordable in the grand scheme of things, considering the pro machines shops use are $2000-$3000 for a Bosch smoke testing machine.
2004 bmw 325xi It was running lean both banks and misfire all cylinders, changed the coils and plugs wich fixed those codes, i smoke tested it and nothing came out. I changed the fuel filter today and then heard rattling. Changing disa and fuel pump in two days. Just wondering what it else it could be if its not those things :/
@@chrisavina1281 sorry to jump in… sounds familiar. Check high pressure fuel pump housing. It’s a one piece unit, so I shouldn’t call it a housing but the ears that the hold down bolts go through break. Pretty tough to get a visual on them from my experience. I found movement by poking with long extension from underneath, confirmed broken ear on the housing.
By putting the machine in the airflow meter will evap test also show if there's a leak in the gas tank or filler neck??? Or this is just a test for under the hood?
No that’s a different system. I’m not sure this is approved for the evap fuel system, due to it’s potential to contain flammable vapor. I believe a more professional level machine and fluid is required for the fuel evap system leak detection. You could reach out to the manufacture of the one in the video to get more info.
@@BIMMERZEITT thank you for your quick response. I won't be buying this tool soon. I been having code P0440 which comes and goes, but most of the time it stays on. I've replace the charcoal canister, like 3 gas caps and the filler neck. It goes away for a few days but then it comes back and stays on for a very long time. Thank you once again
Hey. Superb video. I have strange problem with short fuel trims. My engine is BMW M54B30. On bank 1 i got +25-28%, but on bank 2 it is ok 0 to 5%. I know that my oxygen sensor after cat on bank1 is dead. Is this can affect on fuel trims? MAF is working, I checked rubber hoses and there is no cracks. Help please. Thanks.
Hello Guys, I got this BMW X5 2012 xdriv35i E70 last year and I am trying to keep it for long term. I have been dealing with a code : 28A0 ( Air Mss System, plausibility: Calculated air masses in the air intake system not plausible) for long time. This is was has been done to the car related or not to the issue: Order: RELATED: DMLT VALVE replaced Purge valve replaced charge pipe replaced with FTP Valve cover and other parts replaced. OEM TMAP/MAP Sensor replaced (intake and charge pipe) MAF sensor cleaned and new gasket installed Superjet pump vacuum hose replaced Air filter box gasket replaced. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ NOT RELATED: Current Miles: 110.000 Oil filter and gaskets MANN, Oil 5w30 Liquid Moly , air filter MANN , drain plug and gasket - changed every 5k miles. PREMIUM 93-94 octane fuel (Delta, Shell, Sunoco) Brakes pads , rotors and sensor Parking brake actuator Spark Plugs and Coils Oil filter housing gasket and mickey mouse replaced, coolant flush Transfer case fluid changed Differentials fluid changed. Transmission fluid and filter changed. Heater control valve radiator cap steering wheel cap L/R Mirror glasses Right interior temperature sensor HVAC AUC Sensor Exterior and Interior HVAC Filters Parts supplier: FCP EURO (OE/OEM) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have been doing some smoke tests and this is what I found and Fixed. Charge pipe leaking: FIXED Maf sensor leaking: FIXED Map Sensor leaking: FIXED Superjet pump vacuum line leaking: FIXED Air box filter gasket leaking: FIXED Valve cover gasket leaking: FIXED Map Sensor leaking: FIXED besides that I can't find more vacuum leaks with my smoke teste, I don't see any smoke coming out anywhere. What else can I do ? Something also weird is that the EVAP Monitor never gets done. Car runs perfect , no issues , no bad idle, not knocking (just some times you can feel a small misfire but the RPM does not go crazy. The light and code triggers when the car is being drive at constantly low RPM (1000rpm-1500rpm) and around speed of 25-35mph. If avoid those situation I won't get the light but I will get the code sometimes as pending. I am tired of this code ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some Live data: Short trim fuel are usually at 0% Long term fuel are usually at -2,3% Short trim sensor 2 is usually at 99.2% O2 b1s1 is usually at : 1.4 - 1.5 O2 b1s2 is usually at : 0.7 Intake manifold pressure after throttle valve: 13.93 psi Intake pipe vacuum before throttle valve (charging pressure - setpoint value) : 14.65 psi Intake pipe vacuum before throttle valve: 14.63 psi Charge air temperature: 115.7 F ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Please let me know what else can I do to diagnostic and fix this code, It is the only code that the car has. Thank you so much!
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In this video I use an AutoPro smoke tester (amzn.to/33r29wk) to smoke the intake on the engine of my 1990 735iL. This car has the lean code 1222 which I found using the stomp test for retrieving diagnostic codes on OBDI BMW's (stomp test video: th-cam.com/video/C4T3QAnQAHs/w-d-xo.html). Other common codes on OBDII BMW's with intake leaks are the P0171 and P0174 lean condition codes common on the E36, E39, E46, E53, E60, E90 and other modern BMW cars.
The lean codes are usually a result of a crack in the crank case vent system, crack in valve cover, cracked rubber intake boots, cracked vacuum line hose, or other unmetered air entering the engine. The DISA is also a very common failure, along with intake manifold gaskets. The smoke tester will allow you to diagnose where the leaks are coming from in the most efficient way, without "throwing money" at the car in buying new parts to replace without a confirmation. I should have bought this tool long ago!
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The glove trick is ingenious. What a simple, practical idea. I would have never thought of this, I usually am looking for a convenient sized can in my recycling to make a cap.
lol I used a rubber latex glove around the intake, a hose through one of the fingers and ecig smoke through the hose. Worked like a charm and managed to trace 2 leaks - one around the back of the intake and another around the valve cover gasket bolt. Managed to repair both
nice work!
LMFAO! Dude you're genius. I'm going to call my vaping buddy over right now!
@@heavenlara5730you’re welcome. Just last week vac tested my brother’s CLK. good luck!
Another TH-camr from CT. Love to see it
yooooo
Looks like a small leak. It throws a code because of that?
I laughed so big when you said gutenmorgen😭
Thank you for the explanation, much appreciated as always! This is an incredibly helpful tool to have for most car owners if not all as different components are deteriorating over time. Always a nice feeling to have a good running engine🏎️🏍️🚜
Definitely a must have! I’ll get a lot of use out of it. Smoke testing at a shop locally begins at $150 per car.
Ah, you're already practicing German, good thing 😜
Greetings from Bavaria
Hi Rich,
As always, your on top of your game!
I know I have a leak on mine but I was looking at the SDT-206 on Amazon. It has safety and adjustments. Just a big price tag however my wife’s new Jeep but it is not cover under the extended ‘bumper to bumper warranty’ which is bs. They want $300 to test it. I don’t like my air compressor and the SDT-206 has a pump of it own and is less scary with built in timers. But $300 to the shop for on time or $300 for a tool I can use on all 5 of my rides and family’s cars too.
One downside of the one I’m using is I don’t think it can be used on fuel evap system safely. You need a special liquid vapor so as not to ignite anything- yikes. That being said the better $300 machine sounds better in the long run!
@@BIMMERZEITT I need to double check that about the fuel system safe... great point
@EDWIN MARCELO SEBASTIAN - RUIZ ..
Augh I wish I ran across your video before I bought a similar smoke kit on eBay. It didn’t come assembled or even had the fluid included and it cost more too lol
Why we do not just use some silicone gasket maker (sealer)? Why do we have to replace entire part?
Thanks for the content. Did you ever try sealing rubber joints with a clamp, or an o -ring or if split repair crack with RTV silicone sealer? I don’t usually throw parts at such a small leak.
You could put RTV on a crack to get you by in a pinch. But the rubber hardens over 10,20,30 years and cracks. Best practice is to replace the rubber boots all together.
So For people like me who are broke from trying to fix their Bimmer....You can go to a plumbing supply store and get a leak detection smoke bomb and skip the heating element and the mineral oil, just get a clean paint can and run some fittings. Caveat: Not sure the smoke bomb wont damage anything in the intake.
Interesting idea, I've heard others mention cigars etc. I think the aftermarket kits for $65 are quite affordable in the grand scheme of things, considering the pro machines shops use are $2000-$3000 for a Bosch smoke testing machine.
Can you fill the canister with vape juice? Have you tried it and did it work? I drive a subie and this would be sick if you got it to work.
Great content! Thanks! I have 3 BMWs and need one of these.
thanks Jon! Yep, I should have bought one a long time ago too.
A tin can with tube connections does the same thing. Use some charcoal and light it in the tin can.
What is that writing on your left arm on 5:45? It says 51/49 ...
Might be weight distribution? :D
Great video.
Can you please perform the N62 engine smoke test? I have BMW 2006 750LI and I don't know how to perform the smoke test? Thanks
you ever figure this out?
I smoke tested and no leaks but i have lean codes and it cuts off if i dont press on gas and rough idling
What model car? How old is fuel filter? Is the fuel pump making noise? Check fuel pressure with tester. Could be bad filter or failing fuel pump.
2004 bmw 325xi
It was running lean both banks and misfire all cylinders, changed the coils and plugs wich fixed those codes, i smoke tested it and nothing came out. I changed the fuel filter today and then heard rattling. Changing disa and fuel pump in two days. Just wondering what it else it could be if its not those things :/
@@chrisavina1281 sorry to jump in… sounds familiar. Check high pressure fuel pump housing. It’s a one piece unit, so I shouldn’t call it a housing but the ears that the hold down bolts go through break. Pretty tough to get a visual on them from my experience. I found movement by poking with long extension from underneath, confirmed broken ear on the housing.
By putting the machine in the airflow meter will evap test also show if there's a leak in the gas tank or filler neck??? Or this is just a test for under the hood?
No that’s a different system. I’m not sure this is approved for the evap fuel system, due to it’s potential to contain flammable vapor. I believe a more professional level machine and fluid is required for the fuel evap system leak detection. You could reach out to the manufacture of the one in the video to get more info.
@@BIMMERZEITT thank you for your quick response. I won't be buying this tool soon. I been having code P0440 which comes and goes, but most of the time it stays on. I've replace the charcoal canister, like 3 gas caps and the filler neck. It goes away for a few days but then it comes back and stays on for a very long time. Thank you once again
Hey. Superb video. I have strange problem with short fuel trims. My engine is BMW M54B30. On bank 1 i got +25-28%, but on bank 2 it is ok 0 to 5%. I know that my oxygen sensor after cat on bank1 is dead. Is this can affect on fuel trims?
MAF is working, I checked rubber hoses and there is no cracks.
Help please. Thanks.
needed an excuse to buy a vape, this is the one.
I use a fog machine 25 bucks at Walmart
AKA "Beamer Bong"
Hello Guys,
I got this BMW X5 2012 xdriv35i E70 last year and I am trying to keep it for long term.
I have been dealing with a code : 28A0 ( Air Mss System, plausibility: Calculated air masses in the air intake system not plausible) for long time.
This is was has been done to the car related or not to the issue:
Order:
RELATED:
DMLT VALVE replaced
Purge valve replaced
charge pipe replaced with FTP
Valve cover and other parts replaced. OEM
TMAP/MAP Sensor replaced (intake and charge pipe)
MAF sensor cleaned and new gasket installed
Superjet pump vacuum hose replaced
Air filter box gasket replaced.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOT RELATED:
Current Miles: 110.000
Oil filter and gaskets MANN, Oil 5w30 Liquid Moly , air filter MANN , drain plug and gasket - changed every 5k miles.
PREMIUM 93-94 octane fuel (Delta, Shell, Sunoco)
Brakes pads , rotors and sensor
Parking brake actuator
Spark Plugs and Coils
Oil filter housing gasket and mickey mouse replaced, coolant flush
Transfer case fluid changed
Differentials fluid changed.
Transmission fluid and filter changed.
Heater control valve
radiator cap
steering wheel cap
L/R Mirror glasses
Right interior temperature sensor HVAC
AUC Sensor
Exterior and Interior HVAC Filters
Parts supplier: FCP EURO (OE/OEM)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have been doing some smoke tests and this is what I found and Fixed.
Charge pipe leaking: FIXED
Maf sensor leaking: FIXED
Map Sensor leaking: FIXED
Superjet pump vacuum line leaking: FIXED
Air box filter gasket leaking: FIXED
Valve cover gasket leaking: FIXED
Map Sensor leaking: FIXED
besides that I can't find more vacuum leaks with my smoke teste, I don't see any smoke coming out anywhere.
What else can I do ?
Something also weird is that the EVAP Monitor never gets done.
Car runs perfect , no issues , no bad idle, not knocking (just some times you can feel a small misfire but the RPM does not go crazy.
The light and code triggers when the car is being drive at constantly low RPM (1000rpm-1500rpm) and around speed of 25-35mph.
If avoid those situation I won't get the light but I will get the code sometimes as pending.
I am tired of this code
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some Live data:
Short trim fuel are usually at 0%
Long term fuel are usually at -2,3%
Short trim sensor 2 is usually at 99.2%
O2 b1s1 is usually at : 1.4 - 1.5
O2 b1s2 is usually at : 0.7
Intake manifold pressure after throttle valve: 13.93 psi
Intake pipe vacuum before throttle valve (charging pressure - setpoint value) : 14.65 psi
Intake pipe vacuum before throttle valve: 14.63 psi
Charge air temperature: 115.7 F
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please let me know what else can I do to diagnostic and fix this code, It is the only code that the car has.
Thank you so much!