This is the first video about finding a vacuum, where THEY ACTUALLY FOUND A VACUUM LEAK! Very helpful to hear the engine difference, not just hear to squirt stuff all over, with no effect on the car's idle. Thanks !!
Eric, being a car guy and drag racer for over 50 years. One of the safer ways is to use a spray bottle with water. Instead of the engine speeding up when you find a leak, it will slow down, (and NOT catch on fire if it backfires) which they can do.
I just saw your post on 11/17/2018. Here is an OLD SCHOOL check for you. I saw many variations before computers were used in cars. We would put a piece of cardboard over the fan (they were all belt and pulley then) to limit the fan blowing air back on the engine. Then we would take a couple of long straws and tape them together. Then we would light a cigar (smart people did this away form flammable liquids and washed their hands first to get chemicals off). We would hold a puff from the cigar, and using a flashlight, we would blow a little smoke around gently and look to see if it got sucked in somewhere. I actually saw a rig that used a smoker from bee keeping used that way . It had a little hose coming off of it and the guy had a piece of coat hanger wire taped to the hose. You need to know we had vacuum manifolds in those days, engine vacuum advanced the distributor timing for the engine, and where there are wiring harnesses and sensors today, we had vacuum lines run every damned place. In the 70's and 80's we had both, and was that ever a pain. Some of the hoses looked like wires and were made of brittle plastic. Some of the wires looked like hoses, and sometimes the wires and the hoses were run together as a bundle under wire wraps or friction tape. Yes, I have a therapist.
Great video! Note to anyone thinking about using WD40 to detect a vacuum leak... DON'T DO IT, it will leave a total mess on your engine and be a pain in the butt for future repairs.
This is so amazing! I've been a shade tree mechanic since I was a kid. I basically just learn everything as I go. In fact, I'd even so far as estimate the 30-% +/- of the money I spend on every project is on oopsies and lesson learn. But for vacuum leaks I've always had to pay someone to smoke test it for me. Using your method I just found it in 5 minutes!
@tec68421 Interesting I've never heard of that. You can also use soapy water and pressurize the intake or use smoke to help you find leaks like this. Thanks for your comment.
Eric the madman I love it I'm battling a Volvo.... I can hardly wait for her to freak out when the whole thing goes up in flames and she gets to finally get a new non-premium burning econobox.... And I keep this awesome Volvo all to myself... You are a great American 👍🍁🥞🪓🇨🇦😎
Back in the day I was a fleet mechanic for a large logging COMPANY. Students from a well known trade school 6,week prior to completing the program they would spend a week in a actual shop with mechanics. I would get like 6 at a time. Anyway I was checking for a vacuum leak in a crew bus (Dodge van) I use water in a spray bottle. Spray the area you can see the water get sucked in at the leak the engine idle will also stumble when the leak is found . The students asked me why I didn't use carb cleaner . I explained the thing about fire but also as a kid my cousin was a firefighter told a story about a mechanic checking for a vacuum leak where somehow the can of carb cleaner exploded in the mechanics hand. He lost fingers from his burns. Their teacher taught them to use carb cleaner. Anyhow a couple years later one of those students came to visit me. He wore those gloves that burn Victims wear and a hood over his face. He told me when the can exploded in his hands he thought of our talk. I to used carb cleaner rarely. In the field if water wasn't available. But not since then. WATER IN A SPRAY BOTTLE. DOESN'T EXPLODE IT DOESN'T CAUSE FIRES ITS CHEAP AND SAFE
@EricTheCarGuy this entire month I've been trying to figure out my misfires; ive changed coil, sparks, even ignitor. everyone's been telling me to do a compression test and mechanics are trying to hella charge me a lot of money, this video helped me out ALOT you have no idea. Found the leak at the fuel injector at cylinder 1. THANK YOU for such detailed videos.
10 years old and still helping people out, guess it's time to fix my old 3800 shes starting to run like garbage. Thanks for the awesome video and video's you're still making man
Hi Eric, just wanted to say thanks for all the posts. Although I have been working on my own vehicles for over 25 years, I always learn some new diagnostic approach or easier way of removing or installing a part. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, its invaluable. Great vid and piece of info.
Hey Eric, I recommend using brake/parts cleaner instead of carb cleaner for a couple reasons. First and most importantly, brake cleaner doesn't dry and crack plastic and rubber parts as badly. And second, brake cleaner tends to evaporate quicker as it's not as oily as carb cleaner. I never really considered the risk of a fire, but will use caution from now on.
I’m actually about to test his method out, thanks for the tip. My engine is hiccuping and sluggish. I had 2 cracked intake tubes so I swapped them out for some aftermarket ones. It fixed the problem on top of a spark and boot change. I put some vp racing fuel additive and now my check engine light won’t go away. I going to check for leaks first to make sure that’s the issue and then most likely swap out my stock exhaust for a test pipe set up.
Another useful method is to take a pair of needle nose pliers and just go around and gently pinch off vacuum lines. If you hear a change in idle speed you know you just changed the fuel air ratio. I have found many vacuum leaks this way. This method works very well on older vehicles; I don't know if there would be any conflict on today's more sophisticated engines and systems.
That's how I found the leak in my 4.0l v6 ford ranger. I already had a suspicion of it being the one crusty hose. It was the vacuum hose with the pcv valve beside the egr pressure feedback hoses. One day I popped the hood to find that the hose pinched in on itself and had huge cracks fissures going through it. Took the hose off the engine and took my thumb off it causing it to instantly choke out. i then Replaced the one hose and drove it around some to make sure. Problem solved👌.
I have been having trouble with my 03 GMC Sonoma at time stalling and the worst time trying to figure out why, until I finally ran across this video, thank you, and thank you again!!
It's so simple for them. Wife or any female, she hands keys to a mechanic guy, straight to waiting room (of course iphone handy), when a job done, swipes a card and just leaves. By the way, most of them don't know how to open a hood.
That's why I don't do house work. She works in the house and I work on the house. She drives the car to the store and I work on it. She's never taken interest or the initiative to study how to fix things and I've never done the same with house work. I'm keeping my balls in my court.
If you have a distributor be careful not to spray near it's base, they typically aren't sealed well. The carb cleaner mist will enter the cap and ignite, the cap will explode like a bomb. I exploded one on my Ford Ranger, I was wearing safety glasses and sustained no serious shrapnel injuries.
I noticed my distributor cap was missing a seal and had a gap, maybe 1/32 inch wide in some places, so I decided to order a new gasket before proceeding with this test. I was concerned about the very issue you described.
@x4prilsF00Lx I wasn't following these instructions of the video, this was 30 years ago. You are a troll. Just a heads up you are what is wrong with comment section.
x4prilsF00Lx Why are you getting so worked up with the guy over an accident on his behalf? We learn by making mistakes, and I’m sure he learned from that mistake. You don’t need to practically call him a dumbass for doing it. don’t intentionally try to make people feel stupid, as that’s just not right.
Eric, I know this video is old so maybe you are no longer notified of comments. But I've recently discovered through other mechanics online an easy way to build a smoke machine for around $20 (I had to spend $50 due to PVC prices during COVID being sky high right now and a lack of other suitable containers.) But regardless, it was a very cheap and very simple investment for me to make. You may want to check those out and see if you'd be interested in trying a DIY smoke machine yourself to recommend it to your viewers or not. I watch a lot of mechanics online. But I initially broke the learning barrier by watching you, and to this day if I need to learn something, you're my first choice. If you don't have it, or it doesn't solve my needs, I'll look at a few others before doing a general search. But I feel this compliment is relevant in that, well, you don't have a video on a topic a lot of people probably have interest in: Are DIY smoke machines any good? My personal opinion: Yes. As good as something I'd spend $700 on for testing leaks in intake and exhaust. And a lot lighter and easier to lug around.
Nice work, bro! It's rare to find a mechanic who not only understands an issue and knows how to fix (or at least detect) it, but also knows how to explain that issue, which you have done.... Looks like I need to go buy some carb cleaner (and a fire extinguisher!) for my 2000 F-150 that not only idles rough, but also emits a high-pitched whistling noise while the engine is running. Thanks much for making and posting this video, which has earned you one new subscriber.
@KABOOOOOOM1 Well first only spray a little at a time in the suspected area, don't soak an area down. They actually make a spray to help find leaks that's nonflammable, I think STP makes it, if you were planning on soaking something down that's the way I would go but honestly you don't need much to help you find a leak.
@SporadicPoetry The first step with performance issues is always to check for codes first, if you don't have any check your tune up parts but as you suggest it's also a good idea to check for vacuum leaks.
If you answered, I would be very happy. I’m curious how the vacuum leaks hook up on my truck. I swapped the whole power train into an f250 xlt lariat. I did everything you showed. I changed 02 sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil, and distributor. Changed the fuel filter and I got my other map sensor from an 1991 f150 custom that’s the old sensor and cleaned it out. Everything is good, runs like crap. Can barely run on 500 rpm and will die. Used to run on 1.5rpm and would rough idle. Change the vacuum lines and it made it run on 500rpm. Have to give it gas to make it not die or it’ll just backfire. We took the smog pump and Emissions off and don’t know if I should hook some of the lines to vacuum lines so the Ecm knows it’s off and doesn’t read a false reading. The fuel pressure is really good, but it backfires still. I don’t know if I should change the vacuum lines for try to find vacuum leaks. The motor sat for 10 years and it sat out in the winter for a year before we got it into the other truck. Changed the water pump/oil pump. The intake valves could be rusted and stuck. I just don’t know. If anyone knows what it could be, I would be happy. Engine is a 1991 4.9l 300c i6 from a ford f-150 that is my grandpas old truck, I put it into a 1989 ford f-250 that had a 460 v8 in it. Your video makes me think it could be something simple, but very hard to figure out.
Bro, this video is going to help me fix a problem that my car has had forever! I went through 3 sensors already, then found out that my car (most cars) want BOTH 02 sensors replaced at the same time? My next "to do" items are 1) vacuum leak check 2) Replace older B1S1 sensor with an identical kwiksen one 3) If problem persists, new fuel filter 4) If problem persists but without codes, 6 new plugs 5) Fuel treatment 6) Oil change 7) Prayer! FWIW - I went from 02 codes, to misfire codes, to running lean code right now P0174. My car can't make up its mind as far as WTF is wrong! If only I would have gone the extra mile to look up all this fuel trim nonsense earlier... I'm subscribing and giving you thumbs up! :)
I have 6 thousand dollars worth of mods on my Mustang and I never once took it to a shop. I spent countless hours on my car but everything was done right, I didn’t have to pay anything for labor, and I know a great deal more about every inch of my car c:
When I got my mustang I got lazy and didnt want to figure out a wiring problem so I took it to a shop so they would find it I didnt have to deal with it they charged me 80 bucks to just check fuses and replace a part that wasnt broken then found out the switch (brake switch) wasnt getting any power so they told me come back tomorrow we'll finish it, so Im like ok and when I bring it the next day they wanted to charge me 80 bucks AGAIN to "find the problem" they are all scammers same when I wanted my power steering fixed different shops but still idiots kept replacing shit that wasnt broken NEVER AGAIN. That same day I told them fuck you went home and fixed the brake switch in like 15 min.
@Gmcsierra2500hd You might consider doing a compression or leak down test to determine if there is a mechanical issue with the engine. Make sure you pull and repair any check engine light codes first however. Lastly don't rule out a transmission issue if you find your engine is working properly.
I have a 94 f150 xlt 5.0 30, she has close to 200 thousand miles on her.. I am fixing what the previous owner did not want to put a few bucks out on. Also learning about vehicles in the process. I had a few error codes on it, did the blinking cel light , 311 and 332, and cleared it by tracing vacuum hoses and finding one that was broken.I put a quick fix on it for now,duct tape, until i find the correct od/id silicone hose to run all new lines. I did get rid of the check engine light and she runs alot better. I want to thank eric the car guy and all of the people here who have posted similar issues and giving me an idea of what to check. Too bad Ford doesnt make a kit for vacuum hose replacement, they could make a few bucks on all of the trucks still running up and down the road.
I found a white plastic vacuum line that was disconnected after noticing the transmissions shifting hard, and the smell of rich gasoline when cold. Where it was supposed to be connected was hard to find, it was feeling under a manifold where I found a short rubber hose connection sticking out of the manifold. Amazing how much better they run when the vacuum leaks are fixed.
Thanks Eric I changed my plugs and cleaned the throttle body - Both needed to be done anyway but they weren’t the problem - this was - really appreciate the help!!
My bro, I think you have saved me a lot of money and enabled me to learn a highly useful skil all the while. Hope to buy you a beer someday and say thank you.
Thanks Eric, I've used starting fluid a fair bit. The only thing I can add is that anywhere there is a vacuum line touching another component, is a potential for a hole to develop in that line.
Great video! I’m almost certain I have a vacuum leak in my 95 Cadillac Fleetwood with the LT1. It’s stalls at idle when the engine is warm, but starts right back up with no problems. I will be doing this test today.
smokenbudesq Thanks for trying to help. It actually was a vacuum line. I have a video on my channel titled “LT1 Stalling Problem? Starts then Dies?” where I explain what it was and how I fixed it for a few dollars.
Thanks, and great promo for the Fire Extinguisher! I almost lost my motor home the day I picked up, because I didn't have a big extinguisher with me, Rick
Nice! Glad to see someone that isn't afraid of taking a little risk to solve a problem. We used to use WD40, however I'm not sure it's still flammable. Keep up the good work Eric, and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip. Good to remember that carburetor cleaner can also ignite on a hot engine - so better on a cold engine, and it's also harmful to breath so spray away from you and not on a flat surface so it doesn't rebound back to you (some have powerful jets)
I have 1993 silverado with a 5.7 tbi. The truck has a choppy idle after it warms up. It runs smooth when you first start it but after it warms up and the rpms drop down to around 1000rpms it will bounce up to about 1200 rpms then down and up after about 3 sec in between for a few mins then it will drop down to around 500 rpms and bounce between 500 and 700 rpms. Other than the idle the truck seems to run good, good throttle response no missing above idle. It does smell as if it runs a little rich. I have another truck that use to be my uncles and doesn't run that has the same engine I borrowed the iac valve, map sensor and temp sensor and It didn't seem to change a thing. I have also not been able to find any vacume leaks nor do I have a service engine light on and I have had it scaned registered nothing. The engine was change by the last owner he said the engine had around 80 to 100k miles. I have noticed that I have an oil leak in the back of the engine not sure if it is coming from the distributor or the intake, I don't think it is the valve cover I had removed it and the gasket looked good, I have also replaced the oil postion swith so it's not that. I dont think i left anything out ,So I'm not sure what's wrong with it any help would be great. I also forgot to state that after it warmeds up and idling around 500 if I put it under a load say turning the steering wheel or turning the ac on where the compressor kicks on it will bog down some time stalling. This is a manual transmission truck if that helps considering it may act differently because I have to rev my engine unlike an auto
Great video EricTheCarGuy, I have a VW GTI 1.8t that has a hissing noise in the area of the intake near the diverter valve, I changed out a hose coming from the downpipe and coupled two autozone hoses together to connect to the diverter valve and since then have had boost issues and lack of torque. You will be the fifth mechanic buddy of mine to have explained to me how to use this method.
I got a 1999 ford windstar 3.8 &the heat is not blowing hot try everything it blow just not hot what do I need 2 do fix it got 4 kids & it cold need your help so I know what 2 do so we can have some heat I know it got 2 be something iam looking over because everything is new that I put on what do you think I need 2 do help if you think you know something I can do
My wife has an 03 Mitsubishi Outlander with the 2.4, it has a rough choppy, loping idle that almost sounds similar to a big aftermarket cam, gets horrible gas mileage for a 4 cylinder. I have looked everywhere for a vacuum leak, I’ve even done the old smoke test and can’t find one. Changed spark plugs, wires, and coil packs, ran fuel system cleaner through several tanks and nothing seems to fix it. So I guess I’m just sort of stumped and tired of fooling with it lately, if anyone reads this and has more advice on what else to check it would be greatly appreciated.. ps it seems to run fine at highway speeds, just idles erratically.
Sounds like a vaccuum leak since at higher speeds, engine vaccuum drops much closer to atmospheric pressure, which would make it run very close to as before the problem started. Not familiar with that car at all but if that ignition job didn't solve it then you should investigate vacuum and the fuel system for sure. I'm surprised there aren't any codes being triggered by that?? (I'm no pro mechanic, just somebody who has read a shit ton of forums.) I'd steer you that direction (to forums). I'm sure somebody on a mitsubishi forum has mentioned a similar issue of a vacuum leak at least once. The trick is finding a forum post with closure. good luck with it.
Could be gaskets on your intake manifold. Had similar issues with a 2000 nissan maxima, changed everything like you when in the end it was just gaskets.
Checked for the error codes? (if not get an OBD scanner ) Has it got a turbo? then Thoroughly check all the air intake rubber pipes... 1) Check all around INTERCOOLER PIPE TURBO / AIR HOSE 2) vacuum pipes 3) turo relates air intake pipes once mine had a small puncture in a small connector pipe that leads to turbo, could find only if you bend it & press it . so many mechanics failed to spot it! so s the case with intercooler hose of this 54 reg opel vectra
Does your car sputter before it dies? Does it start up right after it dies? or do you have to keep cranking it? Do you smell gas? I have the same problem and have come across MANY possibilities so maybe I can point you in the right direction
Would a vaccum leak cause the car to have hiccups? It seems my car has lik hiccups when letting off the gas and last I heard was a suction sound when the car was running and the sound came from underneath the motor/ car . My rp would jolt down and come back up at its steady rpm. Feels like a misfire but no codes. Unknown issue I just drive around with been through 4 different mechanics.
another good idea before trying this test is to view the motor running in the dark .. looking closely along the spark plug wires (if you car has them ) if old and cracked they can intermittently ark to the engine block (causes a misfire when this happens ) the ark will ignite any fuel source.. and is a great way to check plug wires . if u have misfires that come and go
A backup to the C02, while it might short a lot of things until it dries off, a garden hose is a fair substitute. Just make sure the fuse box and positive terminal are fairly covered. Great video. Appreciate that demonstration
So if u disconect maf sensor and block intake and car turns off there is no leak? Sorry for replying to an old ass coment just my 05 mustang has a rough idle and i was told i had an exhaust leak i tried what u said and my car turned off.
I would wear them if his logo wasn't so terrible. I love his videos and I get he's not a graphic designer but... the letters are all smushed together and its italicized, with a amateurish glow on it. Seriously, I'm pretty sure there's tons of fans who would be willing to redesign his logo for free.
I'm getting ready to go out and check for vacuum leaks in my wife's 04 Honda Pilot. I know it has a idle air control valve code. But I suspect there are more issues
Have fun cleaning all the baking soda off your engine bay lol. If you're doing something like this to your engine in your vehicle why would you cheap out with something that wasn't specifically made to put out a fire. Sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. I'd rather stand a good few feet away from the fire to put it out and hang over top and dump baking soda all over
Do NOT use an ABC fire extinguisher. It will make a terrible,horrible mess if you have to use it.Get a CO 2 one or Halon. You will thank me later. The propane method will still cause a fire. Stay away from the distributor,if you have one on your engine. Alternator,too. They both produce sparks. EGR is a common vacuum leak point.
RPMX4 Co2 will kill you as well if you use it Ina confined space silly boys. Halon is killer for the Nozone layer I mean earths ozone... Sorry, that's the Al Gore in me....or David Suzuki , yuck
Some of us Eric, are older or have damaged their hearing. I myself cannot hear the high frequency hiss from a vacuum leak. There are probably ways to "detect" a chronic lean condition, then use a tachometer to detect small jumps in idle speeds. Using instruments because we damaged ourselves a little bit. Thanks for the advice on propane. A lot of us use it. I am not sure if MAPP gas or acetylene would work too. Fire extinguishers are cheaper than burning your place out. Been there, done that. :)
I've always used this system to check for leaks and one time had a spark jump and the carb cleaner ignited. It is important to spray sparingly so even if it does ignite it won't burn long enough to cause damage. Fire extinguisher is not something you want to be looking for with a fire burning; keep it handy just in case.
Thank you for making these videos coz it helps a lot with newbie car diy guy like me! I recently discovered that in my 2004 Toyota Corolla Altis the PCV valve was intentionally blocked/closed with round plastic/rubber. I bought it 2nd-hand about 5 years and I'm not sure why they did that. That must explain the carbon buildup inside my engine and oil leaks from the breather hose. I cleaned the pcv valve and removed the plastic/rubber that is blocking it. It looks to be ok but now sometimes I get blue smoke on my tailpipe and when I check the pcv valve again I can see some little oil at the end of the pcv valve pipe. Is that what's causing the blue smoke sometime?
I have a 1997 expedition and have a vacuum leak causing all kinds of codes to be thrown. Fuel bank 1 and fuel bank 2 are lean. Now, off to buy some cigars
Had the same symptoms on my 2000 Chevy Silverado 4x4. It would intermittently die and start back up. On HP Tuner's VCM I could see my LTFT were pegged at 25 and Vauum was low. Confirmed Vacuum with a mechanical gauge and used this same method to find and fix my vacuum leak at the IM. Come inside and this is the first video on my feed! haha EDIT: As a side note, I do usually use water in a spray bottle but I was coming up with nothing on this one. Sometimes you need something a little volatile! And I was out of propane lol
Thanks Eric, Great video! Hope to try this on my son's car which is showing these symptoms and throws 'lean' codes. Will check filter and state of MAF as well as long term fuel trim first. Cheers!
You can get a low cost smoke machine on Ebay for under $100 and you can do the test with engine off so air from fan will not be a problem. You can use it to test all kinds of leaks beside vacuum leaks. Cheaper that having a shop ripe you off.
add on to last post. I also replaced alternator, icm, new key ignition on column, put in an led dome light and cover. I have plenty of other sensors to do, one at a time to see how or if it affects the truck. And I have plans on either a new radio or an OEM like the one it came with.
I had a car that used to stall for seemingly no reason, but start right back up. Turns out that it's distributor had an internal coil and controller chip. When the $5 chip starts to die, you have to replace the entire distributor assembly... Irritating, AND expensive... $300+
For a couple years now, I have been clearing my check engine light with my scanner tool while the engine is running. Is that bad? Do scanner tools reset the ECU when you clear the codes or should I unhook the battery for 15 minutes?
hello all of people with vacuum leaks. my question here: is there something not FLAMMABLE that we can use to diagnose and find the leak? like WD40 or maybe brake cleaner or something else? thank you all and wish U all steady idles!
Perhaps a dumb question but why would I have to cut off the end of my propane bottle in order to put the fuel hose or any type of hose on the torch stem. Thanks Randy
I keep seeing posts of people using brake cleaner for checking vacuum leaks as well. Is one more recommended than the other? Apart from using propane that is...
Excellent video...thank you for sharing. I've now replaced damaged hoses bit its still playing up...how long/miles etc could it take for the ecu to sort itself out?
Depending on the car, it may just need to cycle thru running conditions. A trip to the store, jump on the freeway, take it to 65 & get off the next exit. Other option is ask ur local Smog Tech what the specific procedure for ur vehicle is. The last option is go to library/internet look up reset procedure for ur specific car. You will need: yr, make, model, motor size & sometimes the vehicle identification number (visible thru front window on driver’s side dash board bottom of the window USUALLY). It will consist of numbers & letters. Normally the VIN isn’t needed but I’ve seen once or twice where CPU/ECU needed it to reset due to options offered on certain vehicles.
This is the first video about finding a vacuum, where THEY ACTUALLY FOUND A VACUUM LEAK! Very helpful to hear the engine difference, not just hear to squirt stuff all over, with no effect on the car's idle. Thanks !!
11 years later and this video is still helping people. I have a vacuum leak in my car that I cant find by ear so this helps tremendously
Right? I've been chasing an issue in my 96 silverado for weeks now, needed to come back and figure out what I was not doing.
Eric, being a car guy and drag racer for over 50 years. One of the safer ways is to use a spray bottle with water. Instead of the engine speeding up when you find a leak, it will slow down, (and NOT catch on fire if it backfires) which they can do.
Exactly what I was thinking of doing glad I saw this!!!!
Thanks for sharing!
Will be trying this
To his credit, he abundantly overstated the potential for fire 🔥
I would rather listen to a guy who has Drag raced for 50+ years and says to use something that is safe! Water what a concept! Duh.
I just saw your post on 11/17/2018. Here is an OLD SCHOOL check for you. I saw many variations before computers were used in cars. We would put a piece of cardboard over the fan (they were all belt and pulley then) to limit the fan blowing air back on the engine. Then we would take a couple of long straws and tape them together. Then we would light a cigar (smart people did this away form flammable liquids and washed their hands first to get chemicals off). We would hold a puff from the cigar, and using a flashlight, we would blow a little smoke around gently and look to see if it got sucked in somewhere. I actually saw a rig that used a smoker from bee keeping used that way . It had a little hose coming off of it and the guy had a piece of coat hanger wire taped to the hose. You need to know we had vacuum manifolds in those days, engine vacuum advanced the distributor timing for the engine, and where there are wiring harnesses and sensors today, we had vacuum lines run every damned place. In the 70's and 80's we had both, and was that ever a pain. Some of the hoses looked like wires and were made of brittle plastic. Some of the wires looked like hoses, and sometimes the wires and the hoses were run together as a bundle under wire wraps or friction tape. Yes, I have a therapist.
So basically block the fan use a vape to avoid risk of spark and flames and blow a cloud
@@private1712great idea
Nice detailed explanation. I can totally get a visual of what you are explaining. Thanks for the tips old timer!!
Great video! Note to anyone thinking about using WD40 to detect a vacuum leak...
DON'T DO IT, it will leave a total mess on your engine and be a pain in the butt for future repairs.
This is so amazing! I've been a shade tree mechanic since I was a kid. I basically just learn everything as I go. In fact, I'd even so far as estimate the 30-% +/- of the money I spend on every project is on oopsies and lesson learn. But for vacuum leaks I've always had to pay someone to smoke test it for me. Using your method I just found it in 5 minutes!
@tec68421 Interesting I've never heard of that. You can also use soapy water and pressurize the intake or use smoke to help you find leaks like this. Thanks for your comment.
Eric the madman I love it I'm battling a Volvo.... I can hardly wait for her to freak out when the whole thing goes up in flames and she gets to finally get a new non-premium burning econobox.... And I keep this awesome Volvo all to myself... You are a great American 👍🍁🥞🪓🇨🇦😎
Back in the day I was a fleet mechanic for a large logging COMPANY. Students from a well known trade school 6,week prior to completing the program they would spend a week in a actual shop with mechanics. I would get like 6 at a time. Anyway I was checking for a vacuum leak in a crew bus (Dodge van) I use water in a spray bottle. Spray the area you can see the water get sucked in at the leak the engine idle will also stumble when the leak is found . The students asked me why I didn't use carb cleaner . I explained the thing about fire but also as a kid my cousin was a firefighter told a story about a mechanic checking for a vacuum leak where somehow the can of carb cleaner exploded in the mechanics hand. He lost fingers from his burns. Their teacher taught them to use carb cleaner. Anyhow a couple years later one of those students came to visit me. He wore those gloves that burn Victims wear and a hood over his face. He told me when the can exploded in his hands he thought of our talk. I to used carb cleaner rarely. In the field if water wasn't available. But not since then. WATER IN A SPRAY BOTTLE. DOESN'T EXPLODE IT DOESN'T CAUSE FIRES ITS CHEAP AND SAFE
I have a Subaru. Can I use my vape? Serious question. Lolol
Lol I use febreze
what about soapy water?
Water into an engine... doesnt sound smart
@@TheSatan222 truth
This guy needs more subscribers and likes... he's the best at showing first hand and he's just an awesome mechanic thumbs up to eric
You think this guy made it yet?
He's absolutely the best
@EricTheCarGuy this entire month I've been trying to figure out my misfires; ive changed coil, sparks, even ignitor. everyone's been telling me to do a compression test and mechanics are trying to hella charge me a lot of money, this video helped me out ALOT you have no idea. Found the leak at the fuel injector at cylinder 1. THANK YOU for such detailed videos.
10 years old and still helping people out, guess it's time to fix my old 3800 shes starting to run like garbage. Thanks for the awesome video and video's you're still making man
Hi Eric, just wanted to say thanks for all the posts. Although I have been working on my own vehicles for over 25 years, I always learn some new diagnostic approach or easier way of removing or installing a part. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, its invaluable. Great vid and piece of info.
F150 intank vacuum hose hookup 4.2
Hey Eric, I recommend using brake/parts cleaner instead of carb cleaner for a couple reasons. First and most importantly, brake cleaner doesn't dry and crack plastic and rubber parts as badly. And second, brake cleaner tends to evaporate quicker as it's not as oily as carb cleaner. I never really considered the risk of a fire, but will use caution from now on.
I’m actually about to test his method out, thanks for the tip. My engine is hiccuping and sluggish. I had 2 cracked intake tubes so I swapped them out for some aftermarket ones. It fixed the problem on top of a spark and boot change. I put some vp racing fuel additive and now my check engine light won’t go away. I going to check for leaks first to make sure that’s the issue and then most likely swap out my stock exhaust for a test pipe set up.
They also have non-flammable brake cleaner as well.
I like how he talks clear, concise, and not in a rush. Very detailed and the why of each step. Jolly good.
Another useful method is to take a pair of needle nose pliers and just go around and gently pinch off vacuum lines. If you hear a change in idle speed you know you just changed the fuel air ratio. I have found many vacuum leaks this way. This method works very well on older vehicles; I don't know if there would be any conflict on today's more sophisticated engines and systems.
Where do u pinch the line exactly? at the very end where the boot is ? Thanks.
That's how I found the leak in my 4.0l v6 ford ranger. I already had a suspicion of it being the one crusty hose. It was the vacuum hose with the pcv valve beside the egr pressure feedback hoses. One day I popped the hood to find that the hose pinched in on itself and had huge cracks fissures going through it. Took the hose off the engine and took my thumb off it causing it to instantly choke out. i then Replaced the one hose and drove it around some to make sure. Problem solved👌.
I have been having trouble with my 03 GMC Sonoma at time stalling and the worst time trying to figure out why, until I finally ran across this video, thank you, and thank you again!!
All my wife heard was I get lots of questions about performance issues LOL We got a good laugh because she had no idea what I was watching! ha ha ha
Raw Roy. shows where her heads at
My wife walked in from the other room to comment on his "performance issues." What a pervert.
😂😂
It's so simple for them. Wife or any female, she hands keys to a mechanic guy, straight to waiting room (of course iphone handy), when a job done, swipes a card and just leaves. By the way, most of them don't know how to open a hood.
That's why I don't do house work.
She works in the house and I work on the house.
She drives the car to the store and I work on it.
She's never taken interest or the initiative to study how to fix things and I've never done the same with house work.
I'm keeping my balls in my court.
If you have a distributor be careful not to spray near it's base, they typically aren't sealed well. The carb cleaner mist will enter the cap and ignite, the cap will explode like a bomb. I exploded one on my Ford Ranger, I was wearing safety glasses and sustained no serious shrapnel injuries.
I noticed my distributor cap was missing a seal and had a gap, maybe 1/32 inch wide in some places, so I decided to order a new gasket before proceeding with this test. I was concerned about the very issue you described.
The vacuum advance slider was sticky. I'm not sure what the "dizzy" means. Obviously it was a mistake, no call to get all knowing about it.
@x4prilsF00Lx I wasn't following these instructions of the video, this was 30 years ago. You are a troll. Just a heads up you are what is wrong with comment section.
x4prilsF00Lx Why are you getting so worked up with the guy over an accident on his behalf? We learn by making mistakes, and I’m sure he learned from that mistake. You don’t need to practically call him a dumbass for doing it. don’t intentionally try to make people feel stupid, as that’s just not right.
@Cayde Is Clutch My dizzy has a vacuum line running to it...
Eric, I know this video is old so maybe you are no longer notified of comments. But I've recently discovered through other mechanics online an easy way to build a smoke machine for around $20 (I had to spend $50 due to PVC prices during COVID being sky high right now and a lack of other suitable containers.) But regardless, it was a very cheap and very simple investment for me to make. You may want to check those out and see if you'd be interested in trying a DIY smoke machine yourself to recommend it to your viewers or not.
I watch a lot of mechanics online. But I initially broke the learning barrier by watching you, and to this day if I need to learn something, you're my first choice. If you don't have it, or it doesn't solve my needs, I'll look at a few others before doing a general search. But I feel this compliment is relevant in that, well, you don't have a video on a topic a lot of people probably have interest in: Are DIY smoke machines any good?
My personal opinion: Yes. As good as something I'd spend $700 on for testing leaks in intake and exhaust. And a lot lighter and easier to lug around.
Nice work, bro! It's rare to find a mechanic who not only understands an issue and knows how to fix (or at least detect) it, but also knows how to explain that issue, which you have done.... Looks like I need to go buy some carb cleaner (and a fire extinguisher!) for my 2000 F-150 that not only idles rough, but also emits a high-pitched whistling noise while the engine is running. Thanks much for making and posting this video, which has earned you one new subscriber.
@KABOOOOOOM1 Well first only spray a little at a time in the suspected area, don't soak an area down. They actually make a spray to help find leaks that's nonflammable, I think STP makes it, if you were planning on soaking something down that's the way I would go but honestly you don't need much to help you find a leak.
@SporadicPoetry The first step with performance issues is always to check for codes first, if you don't have any check your tune up parts but as you suggest it's also a good idea to check for vacuum leaks.
Hi
10 years? This was the first vid I found of Eric's.
If you answered, I would be very happy. I’m curious how the vacuum leaks hook up on my truck. I swapped the whole power train into an f250 xlt lariat. I did everything you showed. I changed 02 sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil, and distributor. Changed the fuel filter and I got my other map sensor from an 1991 f150 custom that’s the old sensor and cleaned it out. Everything is good, runs like crap. Can barely run on 500 rpm and will die. Used to run on 1.5rpm and would rough idle. Change the vacuum lines and it made it run on 500rpm. Have to give it gas to make it not die or it’ll just backfire. We took the smog pump and Emissions off and don’t know if I should hook some of the lines to vacuum lines so the Ecm knows it’s off and doesn’t read a false reading. The fuel pressure is really good, but it backfires still. I don’t know if I should change the vacuum lines for try to find vacuum leaks. The motor sat for 10 years and it sat out in the winter for a year before we got it into the other truck. Changed the water pump/oil pump. The intake valves could be rusted and stuck. I just don’t know. If anyone knows what it could be, I would be happy. Engine is a 1991 4.9l 300c i6 from a ford f-150 that is my grandpas old truck, I put it into a 1989 ford f-250 that had a 460 v8 in it. Your video makes me think it could be something simple, but very hard to figure out.
Bro, this video is going to help me fix a problem that my car has had forever! I went through 3 sensors already, then found out that my car (most cars) want BOTH 02 sensors replaced at the same time? My next "to do" items are
1) vacuum leak check
2) Replace older B1S1 sensor with an identical kwiksen one
3) If problem persists, new fuel filter
4) If problem persists but without codes, 6 new plugs
5) Fuel treatment
6) Oil change
7) Prayer!
FWIW - I went from 02 codes, to misfire codes, to running lean code right now P0174. My car can't make up its mind as far as WTF is wrong! If only I would have gone the extra mile to look up all this fuel trim nonsense earlier... I'm subscribing and giving you thumbs up! :)
I brought my van into a shop once with a vacuum leak, and was told I had a blown head gasket...tip, shops are crooked, fix yourself at a 99% savings.
+Joshua Odom Damn right bro
Honestly, I'm afraid of handing my car over to shops.
I have 6 thousand dollars worth of mods on my Mustang and I never once took it to a shop. I spent countless hours on my car but everything was done right, I didn’t have to pay anything for labor, and I know a great deal more about every inch of my car c:
i got a pro charged street fox and will not take it any where for any thing unless I plan to stay with it
When I got my mustang I got lazy and didnt want to figure out a wiring problem so I took it to a shop so they would find it I didnt have to deal with it they charged me 80 bucks to just check fuses and replace a part that wasnt broken then found out the switch (brake switch) wasnt getting any power so they told me come back tomorrow we'll finish it, so Im like ok and when I bring it the next day they wanted to charge me 80 bucks AGAIN to "find the problem" they are all scammers same when I wanted my power steering fixed different shops but still idiots kept replacing shit that wasnt broken NEVER AGAIN. That same day I told them fuck you went home and fixed the brake switch in like 15 min.
@Gmcsierra2500hd You might consider doing a compression or leak down test to determine if there is a mechanical issue with the engine. Make sure you pull and repair any check engine light codes first however. Lastly don't rule out a transmission issue if you find your engine is working properly.
Eric, alot of respect to you, your style teaching and extreme knowledge I say THANK YOU SIR FOR FILMING THESE VIDEOS
I have a 94 f150 xlt 5.0 30, she has close to 200 thousand miles on her.. I am fixing what the previous owner did not want to put a few bucks out on. Also learning about vehicles in the process. I had a few error codes on it, did the blinking cel light , 311 and 332, and cleared it by tracing vacuum hoses and finding one that was broken.I put a quick fix on it for now,duct tape, until i find the correct od/id silicone hose to run all new lines. I did get rid of the check engine light and she runs alot better. I want to thank eric the car guy and all of the people here who have posted similar issues and giving me an idea of what to check. Too bad Ford doesnt make a kit for vacuum hose replacement, they could make a few bucks on all of the trucks still running up and down the road.
I found a white plastic vacuum line that was disconnected after noticing the transmissions shifting hard, and the smell of rich gasoline when cold. Where it was supposed to be connected was hard to find, it was feeling under a manifold where I found a short rubber hose connection sticking out of the manifold. Amazing how much better they run when the vacuum leaks are fixed.
Thank you for this... Guy at shop said I can use wd-40 for this.... do you agree? thanks!
"If you don't have a fire extinguisher, it's a bad day."
XD
You're a genius. I'm glad I found your videos.
what's the part that was leaking? Fuel Pressure Regulator? - Needs to be replaced and he just hisses? Please answer?
The intake manifold gasket was the issue in this video
Are you literate
@@tomchillen3039 very helpful comment
@@bigbitch420 9a
@@bigbitch420 thank you
Thanks Eric I changed my plugs and cleaned the throttle body - Both needed to be done anyway but they weren’t the problem - this was - really appreciate the help!!
My bro, I think you have saved me a lot of money and enabled me to learn a highly useful skil all the while. Hope to buy you a beer someday and say thank you.
thank you bro, I was about to dump my cj7 motor cuz I thought it was shit, but nope just 4 vacume leaks,
I have been watching your videos for years, thank you very much Eric for your fun, thorough, and professional videos!!
So why do you need a hose with the propane tank? I understand it makes it easier to direct the propane but is there any necessity to the hose?
joeman543 you're correct, just to direct the propane where you want it and still keep the valve under control
Bg2
Thanks Eric, I've used starting fluid a fair bit. The only thing I can add is that anywhere there is a vacuum line touching another component, is a potential for a hole to develop in that line.
Great video! I’m almost certain I have a vacuum leak in my 95 Cadillac Fleetwood with the LT1. It’s stalls at idle when the engine is warm, but starts right back up with no problems. I will be doing this test today.
sounds like harness to coil pac
smokenbudesq Thanks for trying to help. It actually was a vacuum line. I have a video on my channel titled “LT1 Stalling Problem? Starts then Dies?” where I explain what it was and how I fixed it for a few dollars.
Thanks, and great promo for the Fire Extinguisher! I almost lost my motor home the day I picked up, because I didn't have a big extinguisher with me, Rick
I'm diggin his Steve McQueen Bullit Mustang sound effect for the opening scene. Pretty distinct recording.
Great video eric! Thanks for being professional and not using profanity.
To reset the ECU, is it a matter of unplugging the battery for a few min, or were you referring to using a diagnostic tool?
Nice! Glad to see someone that isn't afraid of taking a little risk to solve a problem. We used to use WD40, however I'm not sure it's still flammable.
Keep up the good work Eric, and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip. Good to remember that carburetor cleaner can also ignite on a hot engine - so better on a cold engine, and it's also harmful to breath so spray away from you and not on a flat surface so it doesn't rebound back to you (some have powerful jets)
Yeah he said that
Eric I hope you know how valuable you are to dyi guys like me. You are awesome!
will spraying the rubber hoses with carb cleaner eat them away?
no. the residue evaporates
Yeah carb cleaner destroys rubber o rings in seconds
I have 1993 silverado with a 5.7 tbi. The truck has a choppy idle after it warms up. It runs smooth when you first start it but after it warms up and the rpms drop down to around 1000rpms it will bounce up to about 1200 rpms then down and up after about 3 sec in between for a few mins then it will drop down to around 500 rpms and bounce between 500 and 700 rpms. Other than the idle the truck seems to run good, good throttle response no missing above idle. It does smell as if it runs a little rich. I have another truck that use to be my uncles and doesn't run that has the same engine I borrowed the iac valve, map sensor and temp sensor and It didn't seem to change a thing. I have also not been able to find any vacume leaks nor do I have a service engine light on and I have had it scaned registered nothing. The engine was change by the last owner he said the engine had around 80 to 100k miles. I have noticed that I have an oil leak in the back of the engine not sure if it is coming from the distributor or the intake, I don't think it is the valve cover I had removed it and the gasket looked good, I have also replaced the oil postion swith so it's not that. I dont think i left anything out ,So I'm not sure what's wrong with it any help would be great. I also forgot to state that after it warmeds up and idling around 500 if I put it under a load say turning the steering wheel or turning the ac on where the compressor kicks on it will bog down some time stalling. This is a manual transmission truck if that helps considering it may act differently because I have to rev my engine unlike an auto
Great video EricTheCarGuy, I have a VW GTI 1.8t that has a hissing noise in the area of the intake near the diverter valve, I changed out a hose coming from the downpipe and coupled two autozone hoses together to connect to the diverter valve and since then have had boost issues and lack of torque. You will be the fifth mechanic buddy of mine to have explained to me how to use this method.
I got a 1999 ford windstar 3.8 &the heat is not blowing hot try everything it blow just not hot what do I need 2 do fix it got 4 kids & it cold need your help so I know what 2 do so we can have some heat I know it got 2 be something iam looking over because everything is new that I put on what do you think I need 2 do help if you think you know something I can do
This guy is the best there is.
Scotty Kilmer is good too !
scotty kilmer is just annoying
My wife has an 03 Mitsubishi Outlander with the 2.4, it has a rough choppy, loping idle that almost sounds similar to a big aftermarket cam, gets horrible gas mileage for a 4 cylinder. I have looked everywhere for a vacuum leak, I’ve even done the old smoke test and can’t find one. Changed spark plugs, wires, and coil packs, ran fuel system cleaner through several tanks and nothing seems to fix it. So I guess I’m just sort of stumped and tired of fooling with it lately, if anyone reads this and has more advice on what else to check it would be greatly appreciated.. ps it seems to run fine at highway speeds, just idles erratically.
Sounds like a vaccuum leak since at higher speeds, engine vaccuum drops much closer to atmospheric pressure, which would make it run very close to as before the problem started.
Not familiar with that car at all but if that ignition job didn't solve it then you should investigate vacuum and the fuel system for sure. I'm surprised there aren't any codes being triggered by that?? (I'm no pro mechanic, just somebody who has read a shit ton of forums.) I'd steer you that direction (to forums). I'm sure somebody on a mitsubishi forum has mentioned a similar issue of a vacuum leak at least once. The trick is finding a forum post with closure. good luck with it.
Could be gaskets on your intake manifold. Had similar issues with a 2000 nissan maxima, changed everything like you when in the end it was just gaskets.
Checked for the error codes? (if not get an OBD scanner )
Has it got a turbo? then Thoroughly check all the air intake rubber pipes...
1) Check all around INTERCOOLER PIPE TURBO / AIR HOSE
2) vacuum pipes
3) turo relates air intake pipes
once mine had a small puncture in a small connector pipe that leads to turbo, could find only if you bend it & press it . so many mechanics failed to spot it! so s the case with intercooler hose of this 54 reg opel vectra
Does your car sputter before it dies? Does it start up right after it dies? or do you have to keep cranking it? Do you smell gas?
I have the same problem and have come across MANY possibilities so maybe I can point you in the right direction
Would a vaccum leak cause the car to have hiccups? It seems my car has lik hiccups when letting off the gas and last I heard was a suction sound when the car was running and the sound came from underneath the motor/ car . My rp would jolt down and come back up at its steady rpm. Feels like a misfire but no codes. Unknown issue I just drive around with been through 4 different mechanics.
Can you use cigarette or cigar smoke and blow it into a vacuum line? Would this hurt anything?
Did you try it? Would also like to know
It won't hurt anything, but it is difficult because the spinning bits tend to make the area too windy unless your leak is severe.
Woah! You have a Reznor hardware. It's Trent Reznor's (NIN) dad stuff!
Thank you very much Eric, I'm having a vacuum leak on my 87 Corolla, and I can't find where the leak is. this was very helpful
another good idea before trying this test is to view the motor running in the dark .. looking closely along the spark plug wires (if you car has them ) if old and cracked they can intermittently ark to the engine block (causes a misfire when this happens ) the ark will ignite any fuel source.. and is a great way to check plug wires .
if u have misfires that come and go
A backup to the C02, while it might short a lot of things until it dries off, a garden hose is a fair substitute. Just make sure the fuse box and positive terminal are fairly covered.
Great video. Appreciate that demonstration
Disconnect MAF sensor, block intake, - if it doesnt stall there is a leak! And you can hear the noise too... Safer, easier...
not all cars have a MAF sensor
^^^^^ This! like my car i am working on at the moment
B Nagy I came here to learn about leaks and thanks to your comment I think I have got what I was looking for.
gamepro9505 map sensor or maf?
So if u disconect maf sensor and block intake and car turns off there is no leak? Sorry for replying to an old ass coment just my 05 mustang has a rough idle and i was told i had an exhaust leak i tried what u said and my car turned off.
Video starts at 3:30
Man you gotta start selling Eric the car guy t-shirts!!!!!!!!!!!
I would wear them if his logo wasn't so terrible. I love his videos and I get he's not a graphic designer but... the letters are all smushed together and its italicized, with a amateurish glow on it. Seriously, I'm pretty sure there's tons of fans who would be willing to redesign his logo for free.
Bobby John he did, I have one!
His shirts said "Eric The Car Guy teaches you how to set your car on fire!"
It’s been more than a decade of knowledge sharing. Thanks, Eric.
I'm getting ready to go out and check for vacuum leaks in my wife's 04 Honda Pilot. I know it has a idle air control valve code. But I suspect there are more issues
Dude, I want you to be my mechanic. Where are you. Seriously, thanks for all your videos. You be 'da man.
Me too..where are you
@@rosaliemarie4620 Raleigh, nc
@@newmanfertig886 it's beautiful out there, haven't been back since Florence hit Jacksonville.. I'm in California
1:33 decent fire extinguisher: $60
Large box of baking soda: $10
Smart man.
Have fun cleaning all the baking soda off your engine bay lol. If you're doing something like this to your engine in your vehicle why would you cheap out with something that wasn't specifically made to put out a fire. Sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. I'd rather stand a good few feet away from the fire to put it out and hang over top and dump baking soda all over
Do NOT use an ABC fire extinguisher. It will make a terrible,horrible mess if you have to use it.Get a CO 2 one or Halon. You will thank me later. The propane method will still cause a fire. Stay away from the distributor,if you have one on your engine. Alternator,too. They both produce sparks. EGR is a common vacuum leak point.
HALON???!! Never. In a confined space, it could kill you. Only CO2.
RPMX4 Co2 will kill you as well if you use it Ina confined space silly boys.
Halon is killer for the Nozone layer I mean earths ozone...
Sorry, that's the Al Gore in me....or David Suzuki , yuck
How do I go about resetting the eco? Do you have a video for this
Some of us Eric, are older or have damaged their hearing. I myself cannot hear the high frequency hiss from a vacuum leak. There are probably ways to "detect" a chronic lean condition, then use a tachometer to detect small jumps in idle speeds. Using instruments because we damaged ourselves a little bit.
Thanks for the advice on propane. A lot of us use it. I am not sure if MAPP gas or acetylene would work too.
Fire extinguishers are cheaper than burning your place out. Been there, done that. :)
You Sir are Epic!
2 issues solved from your vids now so I have subscribed!
Many thanks!
can you use wd 40 instead of that cleaner?
is still flammable
I've always used this system to check for leaks and one time had a spark jump and the carb cleaner ignited. It is important to spray sparingly so even if it does ignite it won't burn long enough to cause damage. Fire extinguisher is not something you want to be looking for with a fire burning; keep it handy just in case.
Thank you for short to the point and example video! This deserves million views
Thank you for making these videos coz it helps a lot with newbie car diy guy like me!
I recently discovered that in my 2004 Toyota Corolla Altis the PCV valve was intentionally blocked/closed with round plastic/rubber. I bought it 2nd-hand about 5 years and I'm not sure why they did that. That must explain the carbon buildup inside my engine and oil leaks from the breather hose. I cleaned the pcv valve and removed the plastic/rubber that is blocking it. It looks to be ok but now sometimes I get blue smoke on my tailpipe and when I check the pcv valve again I can see some little oil at the end of the pcv valve pipe. Is that what's causing the blue smoke sometime?
Thanks Eric. You always help me. I keep learning from you.
EricTheCarGuy is my idol lol. Love the vids man!
Vacuum leak will also cause a misfire for those who didn't know.
I have an Audi, so I know this to be true :-)
I have a 1997 expedition and have a vacuum leak causing all kinds of codes to be thrown. Fuel bank 1 and fuel bank 2 are lean. Now, off to buy some cigars
How ..??
Had the same symptoms on my 2000 Chevy Silverado 4x4. It would intermittently die and start back up. On HP Tuner's VCM I could see my LTFT were pegged at 25 and Vauum was low. Confirmed Vacuum with a mechanical gauge and used this same method to find and fix my vacuum leak at the IM. Come inside and this is the first video on my feed! haha
EDIT: As a side note, I do usually use water in a spray bottle but I was coming up with nothing on this one. Sometimes you need something a little volatile! And I was out of propane lol
Thanks Eric,
Great video!
Hope to try this on my son's car which is showing these symptoms and throws 'lean' codes. Will check filter and state of MAF as well as long term fuel trim first.
Cheers!
Don't spray around the coil and distributor!
`you can use water too ! just fill a squirt bottle up with water and spray around vacuum sources !
oh yeah and that would stall it. good idea, ill try that first. thanks!
water in the engine is no good
it won't hurt it using water ! all it will do is burn it out ! I used water several times and never hurt nothing !
Keepo Hdee you'd have to dump a huge amount into the engine for it to kill the engine.
Lloyd Dailey you're correct! I do it all the time! It's best to do it while the engine is warm/hot.
the correct way is to use smoke machine (vacuum leak detector)!
You can get a low cost smoke machine on Ebay for under $100 and you can do the test with engine off so air from fan will not be a problem. You can use it to test all kinds of leaks beside vacuum leaks. Cheaper that having a shop ripe you off.
@@georgeforsyth5741 or a cigar or incence stick
AlexD 2
@@georgeforsyth5741
mAB I cNt a4d a cigR or stinkN incNs stik, wat aboOt a regUlR smOk?
add on to last post. I also replaced alternator, icm, new key ignition on column, put in an led dome light and cover. I have plenty of other sensors to do, one at a time to see how or if it affects the truck. And I have plans on either a new radio or an OEM like the one it came with.
Short shots, vroom! There it is! Nice! My old plastic fitting shrank. New Standard metal fitting is tight!
I had a car that used to stall for seemingly no reason, but start right back up. Turns out that it's distributor had an internal coil and controller chip. When the $5 chip starts to die, you have to replace the entire distributor assembly... Irritating, AND expensive... $300+
"i get a lot of questions about performance issues" haha most guys do at some point.! 😱😆
Eric the car god, 2 million hits
Bill Dollarmovie 3 million now
For a couple years now, I have been clearing my check engine light with my scanner tool while the engine is running. Is that bad? Do scanner tools reset the ECU when you clear the codes or should I unhook the battery for 15 minutes?
Eric, whats wrong with using spraying bubbles on vacuum hoses and exhaust piping? Its safer and you don't have to worry about fires.
hello all of people with vacuum leaks. my question here: is there something not FLAMMABLE that we can use to diagnose and find the leak? like WD40 or maybe brake cleaner or something else? thank you all and wish U all steady idles!
you can just spray water as well and it will cause the rpms to flucutate
+nicholas elias too much water through the intake could destroy the engine..
True you just have to be smart about it. Just use a fine mist spray you should be fine. It takes quite a bit to hydro lock a car
dan428 oh bullshit. You have to dump a hell of alot of water to do damage. Brake cleaner is super flammable too
nicholas elias
Avoid power hoses
amazing video, i will do this. and i will be safe.
please change your picture, I have nightmares after seeing you lol I've seen that pic before on other channels and it creeps me out!!
@@MrFreeze79 what was in the picture?😳
Wow! I think Hector needs a hug or something.... (:
Did that on a chrysler conquest and went up like a ball of flames..had to replace about two miles of melted plastic vac line.
Perhaps a dumb question but why would I have to cut off the end of my propane bottle in order to put the fuel hose or any type of hose on the torch stem. Thanks Randy
THANK YOU! ! !
What about using butane to find the leak?
Also, can a vacuum cause high RPM, idle and driving? Please Reply.
Again, Thank You!
I keep seeing posts of people using brake cleaner for checking vacuum leaks as well. Is one more recommended than the other? Apart from using propane that is...
Excellent video...thank you for sharing.
I've now replaced damaged hoses bit its still playing up...how long/miles etc could it take for the ecu to sort itself out?
Depending on the car, it may just need to cycle thru running conditions. A trip to the store, jump on the freeway, take it to 65 & get off the next exit. Other option is ask ur local Smog Tech what the specific procedure for ur vehicle is. The last option is go to library/internet look up reset procedure for ur specific car. You will need: yr, make, model, motor size & sometimes the vehicle identification number (visible thru front window on driver’s side dash board bottom of the window USUALLY). It will consist of numbers & letters. Normally the VIN isn’t needed but I’ve seen once or twice where CPU/ECU needed it to reset due to options offered on certain vehicles.
Eric the Car Guy is really great, He explains things well.
You showed us the carb. cleaner on leaks, how would the gas have worked from the torch?