For steel, the corrosion product (rust) has a volume of approximately 6 times that of the steel. In a marine environment, overlapping steel plates should be 100% seal welded same as any other surfaces that cannot be accessed for blasting & coating. The Toyota frame rails have welds on the front, and for the body mounts, why couldn't the seal weld the double plates? Rivets cheaper? Truck would last too long??
The only good solution is make the frame thicker and eliminate the rivted secondary plates, it would probably cost less than the many pieces and riveting labor, and weigh less than 100lbs more
Place a anode block from a marine store in the areas you need protection. You can use a canister style sand blaster use mica and blast it clean then you can seal it or coat it with a waxy oil used trans fluid with parafin works. Put it into the sand blaster and blast the entire frame
Great video, very helpful hints about problem areas and etc. Just an FYI that N900 making a you a lil happy is actually your brain cells dying, take care of yourself please
I have a newer 4runner. Do you think if I cosmline the outside of frame I'd still be able to use fluid film on the inner frame or would it migrate out and degrade the cosmoline. Just wondering if you've ever had experience with this combo or similar combos.
My 2019 4runner spent its first 8 months in Michigan. I’m in Texas so no salt here. Some of The frame welds have a few light surface rust. What’s the best way to repair this? I’m also internally coating the frame with Eastwood internal Frame coat. Thanks
What I do is scrape or wire brush flaked paint or rust, then you can dissolve the rust with Krud Kutter Rust remover ("The must for rust") which is one of the better rust dissolvers, it also primes. A different product I have tried is Corroseal, works pretty well, this is more of a converter, but doesn't penetrate as well. Then you paint the area, and warm climates could stop at painting, but northern snowy climates I would definitely follow the video method of encasing with Fluid film or tar. *********On my hideous Tundra rear axle, I wire wheeled, doused in Krud kutter, let it dry, then coated with Corroseal, painted with Rust-O-leum, then coated with Fluid film, and that has worked well.
I doubt Toyota is selling them, you'd likely have to find a clean frame and drill rivets out, or make your own, or plate the outside of the frame. Those very channels were destroyed on a friends 2003 Tundra, I welded some patches on outside. Scary thing was the nickel-sized hole turned into about 2" diameter after hammering the rust through
@@shauncry1917 www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1595021-ten-year-of-using-cold-galvanizing-compound.html . I went for a while with Cold galvanizing. Now I use Cosmoline. You have to do a lot of googling to figure out what to do. Obviously you do not have idea how it work. Say paint over FF is non sense. Google for yourself.
I was wondering if I should treat it with deisel for a couple months on and off and then wash dry and paint. I also need a preferred paint if u have details bud
For steel, the corrosion product (rust) has a volume of approximately 6 times that of the steel.
In a marine environment, overlapping steel plates should be 100% seal welded same as any other surfaces that cannot be accessed for blasting & coating. The Toyota frame rails have welds on the front, and for the body mounts, why couldn't the seal weld the double plates? Rivets cheaper? Truck would last too long??
The only good solution is make the frame thicker and eliminate the rivted secondary plates, it would probably cost less than the many pieces and riveting labor, and weigh less than 100lbs more
Soker down with transmission oil turnes it to mud 3weeks 👍
Place a anode block from a marine store in the areas you need protection. You can use a canister style sand blaster use mica and blast it clean then you can seal it or coat it with a waxy oil used trans fluid with parafin works. Put it into the sand blaster and blast the entire frame
Great video, very helpful hints about problem areas and etc. Just an FYI that N900 making a you a lil happy is actually your brain cells dying, take care of yourself please
You deserve more follows
Thanks Shaun
I have a newer 4runner. Do you think if I cosmline the outside of frame I'd still be able to use fluid film on the inner frame or would it migrate out and degrade the cosmoline. Just wondering if you've ever had experience with this combo or similar combos.
Sounds like a great method to me, the Fluid Film is not a solvent, just a wax so it should be fine
The fluid film smells like stinky feet to me. Will the Noxudol wash off with a pressure washer?
Yeah, FF smells funky. I don't think Noxudol will pressure wash off if it is on a solid surface, over flaky rust it would come off
Spray the whole thing with fluid film problem solved. WD40 will wash off in a few weeks lol
My 2019 4runner spent its first 8 months in Michigan. I’m in Texas so no salt here. Some of The frame welds have a few light surface rust. What’s the best way to repair this? I’m also internally coating the frame with Eastwood internal Frame coat. Thanks
What I do is scrape or wire brush flaked paint or rust, then you can dissolve the rust with Krud Kutter Rust remover ("The must for rust") which is one of the better rust dissolvers, it also primes. A different product I have tried is Corroseal, works pretty well, this is more of a converter, but doesn't penetrate as well. Then you paint the area, and warm climates could stop at painting, but northern snowy climates I would definitely follow the video method of encasing with Fluid film or tar. *********On my hideous Tundra rear axle, I wire wheeled, doused in Krud kutter, let it dry, then coated with Corroseal, painted with Rust-O-leum, then coated with Fluid film, and that has worked well.
@@archivegarage7638 When you scrap all rust epoxy primer is best. With some rust on Fluid Film or Cosmoline.
ACF 50 WD is not a lube BTW love your products )
What is that inner riveted piece of the frame called by the leaf spring? Where would I find one?
I doubt Toyota is selling them, you'd likely have to find a clean frame and drill rivets out, or make your own, or plate the outside of the frame. Those very channels were destroyed on a friends 2003 Tundra, I welded some patches on outside. Scary thing was the nickel-sized hole turned into about 2" diameter after hammering the rust through
Archive Garage mine are rotted out. Which sucks cause I just bought the truck and the truck is mint minus that rust hole
@@CwiklaGarage I've learned anything can be fixed, if you need help, just gotta find the right person to do the work
Is the fluid film a rust inhibitor or is it just a water displacement? After using fluid film should I wash or just directly apply the paint on top.
If you wash it fluid film will go off. And you can not paint over ff of course.
So apply wash and paint
@@shauncry1917 www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1595021-ten-year-of-using-cold-galvanizing-compound.html . I went for a while with Cold galvanizing. Now I use Cosmoline. You have to do a lot of googling to figure out what to do. Obviously you do not have idea how it work. Say paint over FF is non sense. Google for yourself.
So cosmoline is what u think I should coat with?
I was wondering if I should treat it with deisel for a couple months on and off and then wash dry and paint. I also need a preferred paint if u have details bud