You could just ditch the wires from the switch side and start from the 4 wires. Tape off the ground, run a single wire from ignition to the first side of the switch, bundle up red and yellow together on the RR conector and connect dark green to FR.
I’m doing the same thing for my lockers. I also purchased the pump-up kit for my compressor, worst case scenario is the rear locker will be engaged while filling up a tire, no big deal. I wonder if the wiring pigtail is available somewhere for the back of the switch. I’m sure soldering wires to the pins was fun! Great job
Thanks! I’m sure that wiring plug is available. But I’ll be most folks solder it up. My gun that gets hot enough has a large end, my fine tip isn’t real hot. Otherwise it wouldn’t look so scorched! I figure ever so often the rear locker being actuated is good for it.
Yup will do, if your keen you should make a video wiring up the diffock lights on the dash so they come on as well. I've been putting it off for years, next time I have my dash apart ill give it a go.
looks great, those included switches with the lockers are trash! Did the same, but with Eaton e-lockers. Adding a tiny indicator light though, incase I forget to turn them off, and then they try to kill me at first corner!
Great stuff. Exactly what i want to do on my landcruiser. I know you need to switch on the rear just to activate the compressor but i was wondering would it not be better to have a seperate switch to activate the compressor only for the times you want to pump up stuff or if like me you have the onboard air tank ? Only because you rear locker will always be activated everytime you want to fill up the air tank or when using the pressure control for tire inflation. Just a thought but great work you done for sure
Thanks! Yes, I think having another switch to run the compressor separate from the locker would be worth installing. I just didn’t want to go through the extra effort, and this way keeps it all pretty clean and simple. On the point of running the rear locker whenever the pump is on, I theorize that that is a good thing for it. For one thing is just to get some actuation out of the sliding components inside the diff, and also to just run air into the system/seals within the diff. By actuating the locker on every occasion that I need compressed air, it just exercises the whole system and I hope prolongs it’s life or prevents some sort of binding from lack of use. Couple more points: It might be years and years between ever needing to or actuating the lockers. Probably not good for them to sit for that long. Also, I once mistakenly ran down the highway in Baja for probably over 100 miles, a few intersection turns also, with my rear locker on! It wasn’t until I had my windows down and was pulling off the highway onto dirt road that I realized the she was locked up. So, while not good for tire wear and general component life/strain, an operable locker isn’t probably going to harm much! My thoughts. Do as you wish! 🙌🏻
@CaptMaxADV I reckon the best might be to have a 2 way circuit. So you can switch the compressor on separately but it also switches on when the diff is activated as you have done in this video. Seems like the best of both worlds and that way you won't forget to turn on the compressor for the difflocks
Great Solution but I think it will be better/safer if you connect to Centre Diff Locker signal instead Ignition ON. This way it will disable the traction control. In some models you can also connect to dashboard front and rear locker bulb.
With this switch in the normal configuration (as I have it installed, unsure if it can be altered) yes, the rear comes on and stays on with the front activated.
Nice Job! Do you mind telling me what the overall dimensions of the switch? There might be a perfect spot in my old ford pickup to install one of these for a nice OEM look.
My 80, and most I've seen have a blank where this switch belongs. Left of the steering column on the mid dash. What exactly are you trying to mount in the engine compartment? I think the power source came from the power bank I wired in that the compressor and all my other current accessories route through.
quick question, when doing this, aside from the air pump activating, how do you know when the lockers are engaged (like how the 80 series has the dash lights letting you know the lockers are on) how would you know the lockers are functioning
I have a problem with ARB lockers. The twin washers inside the air line ring (seal housing) mounted onto the axle spline gear (bearing journal) is so low quality. They begin to leak after a year and start to pump your diff oil out to the air pump and now you have an oil leak from your air pump. And when the leak increases with more wear, your lockers stop locking. You have to dismantle the whole diff to change those washers. And guess what, those also wear and here we go again. They are constantly subjected to friction when the axles are moving. This is a big big design weakness. I prefer electrically operated lockers now.
Damn! I’ve heard of leakage up the air line before. But this is the first I’ve heard of it being a recurring problem. How many miles are you talking before this starts to occur? And reoccur?
@@CaptMaxADV This is a wear problem. It is a fundamental design problem. There is no getting around it. The air to the locker is supplied via this seal housing into the bearing journal. There are two o-rings sealing the air. And they are stationary. As long as the axle turns, they are subjected to friction. In time they wear down. I had those lockers both on the front and rear of my 2010 Hilux. Because the truck is mostly rear wheel driven, the front differential is rarely used. So I had this problem only at the rear. And more than once!
Crazy. I have numerous friends who have run them for decades without problems. Sorry for your experience. I’ll hope for the best! E lockers are saweet!
Where are you located? Here in Utah, if having Cruiser Outfitters do it for you, it’s probably upwards of $3K parts and labor. Give them a call and ask and tell them Jeremy at Adventure Teq sent ya!
My understanding is that ATRAC detects wheel spin/slip etc and that if you're locked there won't be any so it's best of both worlds. ATRAC when unlocked and no-ATRAC when locked since it won't sense a slip. Going triple locked soon on my 100, lockers here just need to install.
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You could just ditch the wires from the switch side and start from the 4 wires. Tape off the ground, run a single wire from ignition to the first side of the switch, bundle up red and yellow together on the RR conector and connect dark green to FR.
Love the OEM look and function !! I'm going to do this also with my '97 LC90 Prado
Nice! How’d it go?
I’m doing the same thing for my lockers. I also purchased the pump-up kit for my compressor, worst case scenario is the rear locker will be engaged while filling up a tire, no big deal. I wonder if the wiring pigtail is available somewhere for the back of the switch. I’m sure soldering wires to the pins was fun! Great job
Thanks! I’m sure that wiring plug is available. But I’ll be most folks solder it up. My gun that gets hot enough has a large end, my fine tip isn’t real hot. Otherwise it wouldn’t look so scorched!
I figure ever so often the rear locker being actuated is good for it.
Did you end up wiring the same way? I’m about to wire up mine and looks like turning on locker will be necessary to fire up compressor.
Perfectly clean install!
Good video mate! I'm gonna give it a go on my 80 series. That's for making the effort.
I need to do it on my 80 too! Check out the new channel I’ve set up for all my Toyota & Land Cruiser content! th-cam.com/video/DpWFe7kVQNo/w-d-xo.html
Yup will do, if your keen you should make a video wiring up the diffock lights on the dash so they come on as well. I've been putting it off for years, next time I have my dash apart ill give it a go.
looks great, those included switches with the lockers are trash! Did the same, but with Eaton e-lockers. Adding a tiny indicator light though, incase I forget to turn them off, and then they try to kill me at first corner!
Nice! I have run highway speeds for over 100 miles accidentally with the rear locker on. Hardly noticed until I got back off the highway!
Great stuff. Exactly what i want to do on my landcruiser. I know you need to switch on the rear just to activate the compressor but i was wondering would it not be better to have a seperate switch to activate the compressor only for the times you want to pump up stuff or if like me you have the onboard air tank ? Only because you rear locker will always be activated everytime you want to fill up the air tank or when using the pressure control for tire inflation. Just a thought but great work you done for sure
Thanks!
Yes, I think having another switch to run the compressor separate from the locker would be worth installing. I just didn’t want to go through the extra effort, and this way keeps it all pretty clean and simple.
On the point of running the rear locker whenever the pump is on, I theorize that that is a good thing for it. For one thing is just to get some actuation out of the sliding components inside the diff, and also to just run air into the system/seals within the diff.
By actuating the locker on every occasion that I need compressed air, it just exercises the whole system and I hope prolongs it’s life or prevents some sort of binding from lack of use.
Couple more points: It might be years and years between ever needing to or actuating the lockers. Probably not good for them to sit for that long. Also, I once mistakenly ran down the highway in Baja for probably over 100 miles, a few intersection turns also, with my rear locker on! It wasn’t until I had my windows down and was pulling off the highway onto dirt road that I realized the she was locked up. So, while not good for tire wear and general component life/strain, an operable locker isn’t probably going to harm much!
My thoughts. Do as you wish! 🙌🏻
@CaptMaxADV I reckon the best might be to have a 2 way circuit. So you can switch the compressor on separately but it also switches on when the diff is activated as you have done in this video. Seems like the best of both worlds and that way you won't forget to turn on the compressor for the difflocks
Nice. Very clean install.
Thanks. 👊🏻
Great Solution but I think it will be better/safer if you connect to Centre Diff Locker signal instead Ignition ON. This way it will disable the traction control. In some models you can also connect to dashboard front and rear locker bulb.
Not a bad way to do it. But I’d rather not need to have the center locked to engage front or rear independently.
That’s awesome. Can you run the front lock independently from the rear or does that switch make it so you have to have front and rear together?
With this switch in the normal configuration (as I have it installed, unsure if it can be altered) yes, the rear comes on and stays on with the front activated.
I dont think you can run the front without the back being on, even with the ARB switches@@CaptMaxADV
@skaboom64 you can bypass it while wirring on arb with a bit of rerouting
Used this on my gx470 and they make the pigtail and switch as of March of 2024
That’s awesome! 🙌🏻
Life saver ❤❤ Thanks mate!
You betcha!!
Nice Job!
Do you mind telling me what the overall dimensions of the switch? There might be a perfect spot in my old ford pickup to install one of these for a nice OEM look.
Sorry man, I have no idea. I mean the next time I’m in that truck and can think to remember I’ll measure the outer square with a ruler.
@@CaptMaxADV Outer square is all I would need. Thanks! I'm guessing its about 35mm square but hard to say for sure from the video.
Okay. I’ll check in the next couple of days when I get back to that truck. 👍🏻
That’s great. Did you ever do it on the 80? Im trying to see how to mount it in the 80 engine compartment. What power source did you use?
My 80, and most I've seen have a blank where this switch belongs. Left of the steering column on the mid dash. What exactly are you trying to mount in the engine compartment?
I think the power source came from the power bank I wired in that the compressor and all my other current accessories route through.
quick question, when doing this, aside from the air pump activating, how do you know when the lockers are engaged (like how the 80 series has the dash lights letting you know the lockers are on) how would you know the lockers are functioning
You just know… 😛
Lolz,
But you could take the time to wire in the lights in the dash. There’s probably threads on that on Ih8Mud.com forum.
Is there a write-up/diagram for this? I'm trying to do the same thing for my 3rd gen w/ an 80 series switch
I’ve never seen one, but probably. Can I help explain it better for ya?
I have a problem with ARB lockers. The twin washers inside the air line ring (seal housing) mounted onto the axle spline gear (bearing journal) is so low quality. They begin to leak after a year and start to pump your diff oil out to the air pump and now you have an oil leak from your air pump. And when the leak increases with more wear, your lockers stop locking. You have to dismantle the whole diff to change those washers. And guess what, those also wear and here we go again. They are constantly subjected to friction when the axles are moving. This is a big big design weakness. I prefer electrically operated lockers now.
Damn! I’ve heard of leakage up the air line before. But this is the first I’ve heard of it being a recurring problem.
How many miles are you talking before this starts to occur? And reoccur?
And also, perhaps they’ve revamped their design? How long ago was this problem you were experiencing?
@@CaptMaxADV This is a wear problem. It is a fundamental design problem. There is no getting around it. The air to the locker is supplied via this seal housing into the bearing journal. There are two o-rings sealing the air. And they are stationary. As long as the axle turns, they are subjected to friction. In time they wear down. I had those lockers both on the front and rear of my 2010 Hilux. Because the truck is mostly rear wheel driven, the front differential is rarely used. So I had this problem only at the rear. And more than once!
@@CaptMaxADV Only about 4 years ago I bought the lockers new. After about 3 years I got rid of them thankfully.
Crazy. I have numerous friends who have run them for decades without problems. Sorry for your experience. I’ll hope for the best! E lockers are saweet!
Any one know how much to install just the rear locker? Lexus lx470
Where are you located? Here in Utah, if having Cruiser Outfitters do it for you, it’s probably upwards of $3K parts and labor. Give them a call and ask and tell them Jeremy at Adventure Teq sent ya!
Does the compressor run continuously while the lockers are on or does it shut off once they’re engaged?
It shuts off pretty quick and will come on every so often if the pressure bleeds off to keep the lockers engaged.
Does the dash light for the lock come on?
I forgot that the light existed when I installed the switch, and I didn’t run a wire to the light. But it could be done easily I’m sure.
Bad ass😉
My LX470 has ATRAC. Do you have to disable ATRAC or does it interfere with the locked axles?
I really don’t know. Probably have to search on Ih8mud.com for someone who knows about that.
My understanding is that ATRAC detects wheel spin/slip etc and that if you're locked there won't be any so it's best of both worlds. ATRAC when unlocked and no-ATRAC when locked since it won't sense a slip. Going triple locked soon on my 100, lockers here just need to install.
What's the part # for the OEM switch?
Not sure. Call Cruiser Outfitters, they’ll hook you up.