3D Printing Nuts & Bolts & Screws using Fusion 360 and McMaster-Carr
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มี.ค. 2018
- I needed some 4x scale nuts and screws for my OpenRC F1 project. Rather than try and source the right size metal nuts and screws, could they be 3d printed? Using Autodesk Fusion 360 and the McMaster-Carr catalog, it's very much possible!
Link to Dave's article at Matterhackers:
www.matterhackers.com/article...
==== I use MatterHackers for everything 3D printing, and they even help support my channel - you can too by shopping the links below:
++ MH BUILD series filaments: 3d.pn/mhbuild
++ MH PRO series filaments: 3d.pn/mhpro
++ 3D Printers & Printer Kits: 3d.pn/mhprinters
++ Matterhackers Storefront: 3d.pn/matterhackers
==== Get yourself some Magigoo!
++ 3d.pn/magigoo
++ thought3d.com
==== Like what we DID? Buy me a coffee!
++ www.buymeacoffee.com/3dprinti...
++ www.ko-fi.com/joeltelling
==== LIke what we DO? Support the channel on Patreon
++ 3d.pn/patreon
==== Shop affiliates by using the links below!
++ Printed Solid: 3d.pn/printedsolid
==== Safety Joel and Joelbot Shirts IN STOCK!
++ Safety Joel / Joelbot Shirts: 3d.pn/shop
++ 3DPN Mug: 3d.pn/mug
++ 3DPN Logo Shirt: 3d.pn/shirt
==== Find Me Socially
++ Twitch: / joeltelling
++ Twitter: / joeltelling
++ Facebook: / 3dprintingnerd
++ Instagram: / joeltelling
==== Donate Crypto Coins to the Channel
++ Bitcoin: 1L4D7HZ198DHfYyfcKim11cPV1pSvkBzQA
++ Ethereum: 0x87a3f850c2Bf20D929303200f53aAb8d8d7E2279
++ Litecoin: LeMZvR4WUCngynZ4D8h2BDUQdqS1GdBwK2
==== Want to send me something?
attn: 3D Printing Nerd
509 NE 165th st
Shoreline, WA 98155
USA
Music provided by futurevega.sourceaudio.com
Royalty Free Music by www.audiomicro.com/royalty-fre... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![ช้างศึกสู้ต่อไป!! พาเปียโน ดูบอลไทยครั้งแรก ตกรอบแบบโคตรเสียดาย!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4WloIH645Lg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[FULL EP.13] เซียนหรั่ง พา ไททศมิตร ลงเรือฝึกสกิลหว่านแห | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EWFuf2Av0K0/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the more useful demos/tutorials I’ve seen relating to nuts and bolts.
Thanks for this.
Yay almost 10 minutes of watching Joel screwing around. LITERALLY!
comedy gold
Hey Joel, just wanted to add something about threads in Fusion 360. Fusion does have its own thread generator installed and its very easy to use. Just create a cylinder. Use the thread command, and then go to document settings and select Thread: Cosmetic and change it to modeled. This will create very accurate threads that do not need to be scaled before printing. This is very useful if you want to screw 2 3D printed parts together!
I tried that, I think Fusion still makes the threads with too little tolerance and not for 3D printing. At least my Prusa MK3s couldn't handle them without scaling.
I was going to say the same thing, I've got a two piece nut/bolt combo STL that I use to test new filaments, and it works perfectly on my Ender 3 sliced through Cura
@@simon7109100 If you check out knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/getting-started/caas/simplecontent/content/3d-printed-thread-tolerances.html you will find a file that allows you to created 3D printed screws and threads using the thread and hole tools in Fusion 360. On my Ultimaker this worked fine, except when I wanted dimensional accurate parts, for example when creating a hole that I wanted to put an actual M3 screw into. Horizontal expansion in Cura will work, but then my outer dimensions were not correct. So that I could have both (I still have to manually scale other inner holes in the design, but that's easy to do), I created another XML file with the horizontal expansion numbers and added (my horizontal expansion was negative, if it was positive you would subtract) to the each MajorDia, PitchDia and MinorDia values in the file in the link (I used Excel to import and export the xml - the poster of the link above had issues using Excel to export the XML, but I did not.). This has worked fine for me (Tested M2.5 to M6 parts) with the only caveat that every time Fusion 360 is updated, you have to copy the file back to the current working directory, which is a bit of a pain.
This just completely blows my mind! I never even looked at that feature before! I think it’s going to be my new favorite.
Awesome!
I'm creating my designs in F360 for a while now (even did a few tutorials) and I haven't even noticed that feature. It will come in handy with my egg painting design! Thank You Joel, you saved me a lot of work now!
Great content, keep it coming. Love the simple 'how to' for a specific solution to a problem.
I cannot stress how you were on thin ice because I was fed up of other videos, this helped me tremendously, excellent job.
High five Joel! Waiting for my printer to show up and binge watching your videos. I had no expectations of using this in the automotive field but you shown me the way! You would be surprised how much dealers want for plastic parts!
Creating nuts and bolts for mechanical animation in visualisation software (Max) takes me ages. This my friend is an absolutely golden find. Thank you!!!!
What a wonderful resource!
Thanks for bringing attention to this!
That's so cool. I would never thought of that. Thanks.
The little car horn noise that sounds after your phone vibrates is cool
Im so glad Im subscribed to you - this is exactly what I need to know...
I like this because it is useful. Update: used the instructions and it worked! Thanks!
do you have to print out a giant screwdriver as well?
That’s true, the slots in the screw head are now 4x larger than a normal screwdriver.
I was thinking the same thing
he has a giant flathead but idk about a philips
DJ Hannu but its 4x larger than a m3 so basically an m12 right
Actually 3,75x times
That's really awesome Joel!
This is very helpful. I am just getting my feet wet with Fusion 360, and this video answers one of my many questions.
Woo that's great!
Thanks. This is exactly what I was looking for. So many thanks to you.
Most useful video you ever made. Double thumbs up for you
That feature is awesome!!!
I did this to make my spool holder. Took a bolt from McMaster and added a large round grip to one end so I could twist it by hand. Then used a nut from McMaster to make the other half.
I knew about making your own screws but not about the screw catalog. Thank you :D
This is awesome! Thanks for the video!
MAKE SURE YOUR LAYER ADHESION IS REALLY GOOD IF PRINTING SCREWS VERTICAL, IF YOU ARE REALLY TIGHTENING THEM
Really this should be pinned. Quickest way to break a 3D printed part is to put it in tension along the z-axis, which bolts do as their primary use.
+KiaranScath can you explain what pinned mean? Thanks
They mean it should be stickied at the top of the comment thread.
Print each screw in half and horizontally to allow a little tension?
LOL, I was about to say the same exact thing. Two ways I know of how to help with this.
The first is to split the screw in half, and glue it together, this can be annoying for sure to make sure everything lines up great. Make sure you don't split it along the line of the phillips head or else it is likely to split when you try to screw it in.
The second thing that helps is to bake the part after the fact to really solidify the layers together. This works at different temps for different plastics of course. I got the idea here: th-cam.com/video/CZX8eHC7fws/w-d-xo.html and it really does work wonders. The layer lines are STILL probably the weakest axis, but they are at least much stronger than before. This will cause changes in the dimensions of the part, so you will have to take this into account when doing the scaling as shown in this video.
Great information- thank you
THIS IS GREAT INFORMATION!! Thank you!
Not sure Cura compensation and set it to let's say -0.2mm - this will keep the overall dimensions, but keep a "tolerance" distance on outside layers.
Nicely done!
In cura there is a setting called "horizontal expansion" that does the same thing as the setting in simplify3d(I believe "xy offset). I suggest you use this insteadof scaling in X and y.
That was great information Joel. Thanks!!
Very glad it helped!
I'd be *screwed* without this video, thanks!
Thanksssss so much helped me out big time !!!
Yup. That was helpful. Thanks
Ahhh, you ARE going to MRRF. Looking forward to seeing your car!
DIS IS SUM GOLD CONTENT YO
Joel, if you want to avoid the annoying task of trying to properly re-center the camera on the part in Cura, you can just turn on "Center camera when items is selected" under preferences --> Configure Cura
Or, if you find that too tedious (too much jumping around for me), you can right click a selected model and click "center".
Try middle mouse click
Thanks Joel. Great coverage of the feature. Even though I primarily use Tinkercad, I'll still be able to go the F360 route to get the base part then import. Cheers
Hey +noxxi knox thanks for the detail. What I was proposing is simply using F360 to import the McMaster-Carr part, export the stl, then go back to my safe space called Tinkercad. Yes, I am a total CAD noob. Cheers ;)
All good. Make sure you don't forget to put a specific 'part' in a vice :)
Great thanks.This is how I would have done it and found the link just now www.instructables.com/id/Import-McMaster-Carr-Components-Into-Tinkercad/ And here is a more efficient way ( untested ) twitter.com/tinkercad/status/931001126949765120 Cheers
Just tested downloading a STEP file directly from McM-Carr and uploading here www.3dtransform.com/ Worked like a charm
I love how exuberant you are. And I loved the unscrewing joke. :-)
I just got done experimenting with this. my formbot raptor is doing a great job with it.
Nice video, in Cura you may set 'horizontal expansion' to something between -0.1 and -0.2 to compensate the 'grow' of the piece.
WHat are you talking about? You can totally magically inflate steel! You just need to heat it up. Metal expands by about a thousandth of an inch per 2 degrees C or so. All you need to do is keep the steel from vaporizing and heat it to about 3,000,000 C :3
I love your comment
A bit weird commenting on a 2 year old comment, but its worth noting that not only would he have to heat it to 3,000,000c... He would have to keep it there so it did not contract again when cooled.
Great video!
That was awesome!!
McMaster is the Amazon for business. I love them!
Thanks for the video. My first printed bolt was a hex bolt, and I resized the bolt like you said, but because of the resizing, none of my allen keys fit the bolt.
So for my second attempt, I will be using a philips head instead.
As always a cool, fun and instructive video. Can you scale like that in simplify 3D?
Joel, you *can* embed the screw threads into the body of a plastic part (like tapping a plate for a screw), by subtracting the upscaled screw model in Fusion.
- Start by upscaling the screw step model in fusion, instead of the slicer, then
- position the screw model inside the selected 'tapped' body at the location where it would 'bottom-out'
- do a logical subtraction of the screw from from your selected body
Once subtracted, this will leave a screw-shaped hole. Use the same size offset for the farssner, and voila!
My guess is he already has a bunch of parts printed out. what might work for that situation is something like a timesert, just drill out a hole slightly larger with a 3d printed female thread and glue in.
Just don't forget the tolerances... You should probably overscale the screw a little before you intersect it with your model, unless you want a really tight fit when you put the screw in the printed thread. And don't forget that the pitch does not scale up the same way as the diameter with real screws, so if you want to use metal hardware, scale up your original model outside of the slicer and then use an unscaled screw to tap the hole in the model (again, maybe scale up the screw diameter just a tiny bit to give some tolerance).
Thanks for the tip ! One quick question, how do you scale up your part directly in F360 ? I only know how to do it with my slicer.
Very easy: If you are in the Model workspace, just go to Modify - Scale. It's pretty straight forward. If you need some more Info, goto help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID-D3F6F79B-1498-48B3-B98C-7D57B620005A
Great video really useful....
Wish I had seen this before I printed the Bolt and Nut pencil holder. Took several days of back and forth to wear the threads so the nut would spin.
.2-.5mm clearance usually works for me but I wouldn't print a bolt if I had a choice. The forces aren't spread across the surface of the spiral plane if it can just fail at one layer. I do use this feature in Fusion360 a lot though for design but usually just to carve out holes for real hardware.
I know the metric system is incredibly complicated but... couldn't you just have taken an M12? ;-)
Just my thought. If you 4x the pitch and diameter, then isn't that simpler and easier. Just may be a bit more expensive, but then also more durable.
Not really, since the pitch isn't the same.
M3 is 0,5mm pitch, x4 = 2mm pitch. M12 is 1,75mm pitch. :)
It would not fit.
If you take an M12 bolt of course you need an M12 nut...
there is no thread in the car parts, so the pitch difference would not matter.
But why does that matter if the threads are tapped either by a tap or as the bolts go in. I don't think this was threaded when it was printed, and I can't see a plastic bolt will cut into it to make a good thread. We will probably see in the next video
As for 3D printing screws that will need to thread into the plastic, you can tap the part, screw in the printed one and have the epoxy on it as you do. it will lock in and be super strong!
Would rollform taps improve strength of the tapped holes?
I was looking at something recently that seemed to suggest setting horizontal expansion to enabled and to -0.1mm would help fitted parts fit together. I haven't tried it yet though.
Think there are also SCAD nuts and bolts on Thingaverse that you can download and modify.
While being 2 years old, I'd just like to add that there is the "Horizontal expansion" setting in Cura, which allows you to expand/shrink all perimeters just a little bit to the inside or outside without actually scaling the part itself. This could be useful when this method of scaling the full model isn't something for you. :)
Hey joel loved the video but there is a tip that i found works well for tolerances...the tolerance of a printer, as angus test shows, is pretty fixed at something like .02 or whatever. So when including tolerances in your design instead of modifying the size % down to adjust you just add/subtract the tolerance of your printer to the dimensions. Example if you scaled something up 400% and the dimentions were 30.333mm instead of doing 375% you can instead set it to 30.313 . This way it doesn't matter if you are doing 400% or 400000% you will always adjust the size down by .02mm...
Nice work Jole, if your building your parts in fusion. You can add a thred in any hole with the thred tool. Make a hole, add a thred, (make sure you check that you want to modle it, else it only looks like its there) Supper eazy. I use it all the time. Even down to small fine thred parts. Keep in mind print orientation. God bless. ~Russ
You may not want to go this with countersunk screws. changing the X/Y is going to change the angle of the countersink. You may end up with screws that will tighten but the parts might be loose and wobbly. Should work fine for button head screws though.
yeah it's stretching the thread pitch out so they're going to be tight
I was using the built-in tools to make fasteners a year ago and everything meshed fine, now they are incompatible i can't get any of them to screw together
I've always used cura
Hi Joel, you may be able to use 3D printed bolts into the non threaded 3D printed holes if you run a tap into the hole first - providing you have say x3 shell layers on the part with the 3D printed hole in - some lube like silicone grease may help after you have tapped the hole to allow easy insertion of the 3D printed bolt - Dale, Kora 3D
Check out the Robertson heads (not common in the States), it would be an alternative to the Philips while maintaining the 90-degree angle. Given that is is a square head, it would be easy to build a bit when you are scaling to large sizes.
Nice, I wasn't aware of the McMaster-Carr implementation in Fusion 360. That'll be a real time saver! Just FYI I remember hearing that 3D printing parts from their site is explicitly against their Terms of Service... but at the same time you're printing a scaled up part that they don't even sell, so I'm not sure if anyone would care ;)
I've heard from a few peopoe that 3d printing parts from their catalog is against their TOS, but I imagine this is to guard against reselling? Like you said I am scaling a part up. Perhaps this is kosher?
Next video: 3d printing in jail how-to
3D Printing Nerd Well I'm pretty sure anyone could just make a screw and base it off of one of the McMaster-Carr screws then name it something else
Interesting your video. I have question. What is the smaller screw you have printed ?
Pro Tip: Cura now imports native SolidWorks files so you don't need to use Fusion as a intermediary.
SWEET!!
Funny that you put this video up now, as I just printed a 1.5" x 8tpi bolt for a lathe chuck, just to keep "stuff" out of the chuck threads when not in use. I had the same thread problem as you described, but I thought when cooled the plastic shrinkage would be enough. It sort of was, but not good enough. A scale downward would have been better, perhaps 5%. My thought after watching your video was once one found a percent that worked for a particular size would it be liner over other sizes? Guess that would have to be tested.
Have you ever tried silicon spray? Makes PLA slippery! Before changing X & Y.
What about Cura’s tolerance settings for inclusive and exclusive curves and gradients? Would that keep your scaling relative?
thanks for this, made a stl with some m4 screws i will need for a future project, if they are strong enough they will help mod my printer a bit. 😁
On cura, instead if playing with scale, you Can also change horizontal expansion. I think it s à better way.
Oh, Thank you, thank you. I saw that in my Fusion 360 menu today and passed right by it. *Facepalm*
Watching this in 2020 and the last bits of advice (to hug each other and to high five) are _sooo_ last decade! In the Age of COVID we'll have none of that gratuity contact with other humans.
With Fusion 360, on my Prusa 2, I find I can just create a standard thread (say M6), create a threaded hole, and expect them to print and screw together without any extra clearance. I.e. the default clearances work ok for me. If I do a custom thread, I have to add clearance manually.
If you need another video topic: What can you tell us about 3d printed casts for broken limbs? From the little I've seen they look hugely better and cheaper than standard casts.
would be good to see a resin version of this.
I have a few questions: As I understand it, the axis the printer prints the layers on, (in this case, it would be the "z-axis", or vertical axis), is usually the weakest point of a print. With printing a screw or bolt, vertically, wouldn't it leave said fastener extremely vulnerable to shearing or snapping off along these lines? Wouldn't the results be stronger if printed horizontally? ( Which in turn would possibly introduce the chances of the vertical shape being warped, I know, no easy solution.) Also, how would you handle printing the supports, whether printing the connectors vertically, or horizontally? Would printing diagonally solve any of this? How could you print it, and still maintain the needed strength & integrity?
You can’t change the X an Y on one or the other, sometimes the hole that you put the bolt through may need to stay the original size so it doesn’t slip around, so in those cases you’ll want to change the nut, but only if there is enough room for the nut to fit on the receiving end.
I think an easier way to do it is with the Cura Setting "Horizontal Expansion" (mine is set to -0.1mm for PETG, and -0.05 for PLA) That way the holes match their real world size. It mitigates the thermal change in size from the plastic.
Tap and die set? since you scaled these instead of using m12 screw your thread count will be extremely coarse, but you maybe able to find a m12 tap with that thread count. This may also help with your nuts and bolts not having the right tolerances and give a much cleaner fit than scaling.
Off topic question Joel : just finish watching your video on Mosaic Palette 2/3 pro 👏, my question is can you use the Palette 2/3 pro with let’s say a Ender 3 v2 with a BLTouch attached ?
I recently bought a new matter mod t. I am going to upgrade in a few months, and I was wondering if the cr-10 s5 was a good option.
I love your vids and have turned on notifications.
Joel please respond.
I just would like to know if the cr-10 s5 is a good option.
Doesnt Cura have Slice Tolerance options where you can choose inclusive for the nut and exclusive for the bolt?
Thanks man..
Another Fusion 360 trick is that you can edit the XML thread data library to include threads it doesn't have already. I've added soda bottle threads (yes, there is a standard) and garden hose threads to models this way so I can make 3D printed items with these type of female threads.
Are making bolts and screws on a 3D printer more efficient than making them on a plant? I work for Stanley and we make bolts and screws out of coil of wire. I’m thinking of the future and I want to know if 3D printing such objects will take those jobs. What do you think?
Super useful information Joel, thanks for sharing this! Excellent tips on scaling as well. #HIGHFIVE
Thanks, Mr. Nurd, that answered a question I had. An't 3d printing fun?
If you scaled up the whole car by 4 then the motor mounts will be scaled up to, so the motor mounts and anything else that require a measurement will not work with anything else?
Nice Joel! Quick question though and I pray you see this and can provide an answer.... Do bolts and screws like that require support material? The angles suggest that they do, but I can't find any videos that actually show the printing process, just a before and after. Thanks!
Depends on the layer height and if your printer can handle the overhang angle. Look at the preview in your slicer first layer by layer and make sure it looks good. I didn't use support at all on mine.
Ok, Thanks for the quick reply! Hi-Five! :-)
Thanks !
Clearly helped me work out my current challenge :-) √√
Hello, so you basically have to scale the x+y axis per 3,75% ? or was this just a successful random amount?
regarding the nut, is the same process used? x4 with a slight reduction?
For places where the screws are supposed to cut the threads into the plastic parts - just use a metal tap to put the threads into the plastic, then screw the plastic fastener in. Probably try it on a test-piece to make sure it works right, but a M12 tap might be the easy solution to your problem, and let you keep the final model as printed as possible.
Joel, FYI scaling an M3 screw to an M12 will only work if you're printing the nut as well due to the thread pitch not scaling by the same amount. An M3 screw has .5mm thread pitch while an M12 has 1.75mm pitch. Scaling by 400% gets you close to the major/minor diameters, but the pitch difference won't allow it to mate with a real nut of this size.
Use the correct thread pitch model, when it's available. You can always change the head recess or Frankenstein other head geometries from McMaster models.
Lol when I tried to make a mount for my DSLR I just googled the dimensions the screw needed to be and put it into the thread maker in Fusion... worked first time (and it's probably not agaisnt TOS).
That's the first 3d printed thing I ever held
Great tip... thanks.
What about using a tap and die set to thread the hold first ??
can you print springs this way with a DLP resin printer using tough resin?
i try to print M4 bolt and nut with 100% from the mcmaster carr, but it doesnt work, i can't twist it to the nut. any idea?
Joel i just wanted to say thank you, when it comes time to have "that talk" with my son, i think I'll just let him watch this video so he can figure out how male and female parts are different in life. 😁
If you still want to print the screws that need to "bite" into the plastic you still may be able to do so. You will need to find a "Tap" that will create the grooves in the plastic. At 4X you may still run into the problem of finding the correct size, however this is still a suitable option for creating threads on plastic.
Tap and die sets from craftsman:
www.craftsman.com/products/hand-tools/specialty-tools/tap-and-dies-and-sets
You could find a single tap if you know the exact size needed although the set will have several sizes and the correct tools required to move the tap in and out of the material.
For those who may not know the "Tap" is a threaded metal rod. Similar to a really sharp screw with relief channels for removing material without getting stuck. The "Die" is for creating threads on a rod. Its a bit more complicated then all that, as you need to oversize your rod and undersize your hole to come out with the correct threads but its an option none the less...
Good luck and, Enjoy... =]