I love this, and definitely plan to purchase your plans. Q: Will it fit a Bosch router table with the dimension of: 22.75 x 27 x 14.5 inches (LxWxH) I would put a DeWalt planer on the other side. Thanks in advance.
I really like this flip top. Also, you do a great job with your videos. Good dialog, plenty of instruction, and a sense of humor! I’ll be buying the plan for this. And, just a note here for others who watch this and have an attitude about buying plans; I’ve been building cabinets and furniture for 50 plus years. Yes, I could draw out plans of my own and build this. But, for a few bucks I can buy these plans, make any additions, subtractions, or changes of my own if I want to, and get on to actually building this faster and easier than starting with a blank sheet of paper myself. So, I have no qualms about building someone else’s idea if it makes my life easier. This is a well thought out flip top, and I’m looking forward to building it!
Hey Brad......We just bought a jointer and spindle sander .I'm thinking this would be the perfect way to go... If it works out for us, I'll be making another one for the planer and belt sander......... I'm glad this showed up in my feed. THANKS for the video.
Hello Brad! I ordered the plans earlier this year and finally got around to building the cart over the past week. It turned out great! Two things I want to mention though that may help others with the build. First, I just didn't feel comfortable with the lag screw mounting method for the tools, so I went with holes drilled through the top and machine bolts, washers and nuts to secure my planer and sander. Since the Dewalt 735 planer and my WEN sander have completely different mounting hole patterns, it wasn't a problem at all. And even though two of the sander bolt holes ended up directly under the planer, the Dewalt 735 has what amounts to a "hollow" raised base that sits almost 2" above the surface which allowed for the end of the bolts from the sander to protrude 1/2" with no issue. Secondly, and perhaps most importantly....if you are going to mount a Dewalt 735 planer and plan on centering it on the top, you will NOT be able to flip the top without removing the handle that raises and lowers the planer bed! Ask me how I know...lol. Yes, I was a bit bummed when I tried flipping the top for the first time, but that handle removed with only one hex bolt and the tool for it and other adjustments on the planer sits in its own slot right on top of the planer anyway. The only solution that I could imagine would be to mount the Dewalt 735 at 90 degrees away from what I would consider to be the "normal" way to mount it OR simply move it to the left far enough for that handle to clear the top of the right side piece of the cart. I'm sure those few inches wouldn't cause any issues with the balance of the cart. For me though, I'll be in the "remove the handle" crowd whenever I need to use the sander! 😅
@johnpelz ...I used the largest diameter bolts that fit through the holes in the base and the length was determined by the thickness of the shelf that flips.
Great plan, I did add one enhancement that might help with operations and longevity, I added a 3/4 id. and 1 3/8 OD bearing bored 1/2 into the inside of the side panels
Great video and info, thanks! I'm building this now but with a few changes. Rather than a 3/4" tube to hold the flip top, I'm using a 5/8" steel bar (cuz I had that available). I cut a 5/8 cove along the edges of the pieces that sandwich the bar so there's no wobble as it spins. The bar will rest into 5/8" flange bearings to allow easier flipping. Also, rather cutting the slots for the retaining eye bolts, I glued 2.5 x 2.5 x .25 piece of poplar at each corner of each piece of the flip top. I already had the 1/4" wood and it made things so much easier. This also allows adding ball catches rather than using magnets. Lastly, I added a hanging tool storage to the side for the lathe tools. I made mine 33" wide to fit my mini lathe.
Total rookie here but I finally bought the plans and made this yesterday f9e my new DeWalt 735w and Rigid Spindle Sander. Took me a day and the plans worked out great! I made a couple small alterations on the fly but otherwise worked awesome!
@@johnmclain6535 what are the benefits of having the planer flipped at eye level? Why not just leave it on the bottom shelf and just feed it the boards?
Your plans were fantastic. Built mine over the weekend. $9 was a steal! Quick tip for folks building their own. I used 3/4” conduit which has a .9” outside diameter. I made .1” deep dado 1” wide in each of the tops as the 3/4 backing pieces were only .7” thick.
Thanks for the tip. I used the exact rod he used but it was still too tall for a 1x2 (3/4" actual) and just came inside to try and find a solution. Going back out to the shop to cut dados
Thanks for the plans, Easy to follow (along with the video) and the end result looks great and works well! I note a few things; The plan calls for 3/4" pipe and to drill a 3/4" hole on each side. The 3/4" pipe has a 1" outside diameter. The plans should reflect this or at least the verify the proper size holes. Also, I added a 2X6 frame on the bottom of the cart to add a bit more wood and larger screws to attach the casters and give it a bit more weight given that I was attaching a thicknesser which is quite heavy, just a suggestion, thanks.
Does anyone else who has made this experience the sides separating from the top when you spin it? Every time I rotate the top, I have the bang both sides back on to the pipe. I'm not sure what is causing this at the moment but I'm thinking the pipe being captured on the outside of the side with something like a locking collar & thrust bearing would solve this issue...of course you'd loose the extra support block. We'll see! I just got mine finished yesterday and I'm excited to have the space saving opportunity from another FTBT idea. I added some little extras with a walnut drawer front and 3D printed accessory holders and cord wraps. I also need to come up with something to prevent my planer tables from falling during the rotation but overall a win for the shop! Thanks Brad.
Great video. I like the detail and explanations for your design elements. I made mine in almost the same way, but with 2 differences. First, I used 1/2" solid bar and bronze bushing instead of the metal tube. I found they were easier to source. Second, my bottom drawer floats on two thin hardwood pieces instead of a drawer slide. This lets me open it from either side with drawer pulls on both sides (two drawer fronts). Like you, I pull mine out and away from the wall about every time I use it. My floating drawer lets me store accessories for one tool in the front half of the drawer and accessories for the other tool in the other half of the drawer.
Hollow tube can let you run power through it to the tools so you don't have to plug them in every time you use them. Easier if you use 2 shorter pieces and a T-junction than trying to cut a hole for the interior access. Make sure you stop the flipping at 180° so it doesn't coil up the cord over time, and run power in through the tube to a power strip in the top that you plug both tools into.
I got the flip top tool stand done and its great. thanks for such great detail in the plans. last month I did the mobile miter saw stand .I got a lot of great comments on it. thanks again. my son thinks I built a shop just so I can build projects for the shop. and the french cleats are great also.... maybe the kids right.
Am planing to build a flip top myself. Will keep this design in mind. May stiffen the sides by adding 4” deep drawers to each side and maybe a little taller with taller drawer on bottom. Keep the dust rollin! Oh ya, new subscriber here.
Your explanations are so clear - fantastic build, thankyou. I’m thinking of changing my current mitre saw cart to one of these, so that when it flips, the other side is a flat work table, which can be an outfeed table for my table saw cart.
I made this a while ago. It's working great. Nice to have the plans since the tools you put on the original build were the same ones I had. Rare that I can just follow plans with no changes. I did the pocket holes for the bottom. in a slightly different order. I first attached the shelf, then the bottom. I didn't have to use the "funyuns in the vending machine" technique that way. Thanks for the good plans!
Just bought the plans!!!! I have to build the CNC Table and work bench first...but ya know...COVID!!! plenty of time lol I'm going to need a 42' TV in my shop to watch all your videos as I build!!
Great video! Watched a bunch of YT flip top stand videos and your's is the best. You've given me my next project for my disc sander and spindle sander.
Nice work! I've got the plans and most of the material already. But I'm in the middle of a major purge of my basement/shop. When done, I'll get going on this build. I have a Dewalt 735 with an upgraded Shelix head. I'll be picking up a Ridgid oscillating belt/spindle sander. This will be perfect. But I have a suggestion for your build. When assembling the box, t would be much easier to install the shelf/drawer top before the bottom. Much less hassle with installing the pocket screws. If you set t up carefully and use some bar clamps and temporary spacers, it will work just as well. Just my .02 worth.
Love your shop, videos and precision. If I might offer a suggestion on throwing away your Kregg driver bits? As a retired toolmaker/moldmaker who has sharpened my own drill bits and cutters for years……try using a pedestal grinder to remove the ‘rounded’ edge end. Use water to dip your bit into keeping it relatively cool, if your bit gets too hot and ‘blues up’ you’ve taken the temper (hardness) out it. You should add more life to that bit, saving you some money. MikeC
Awesome video Brad. I really appreciate you showing the learning process. It makes a huge difference during a build. Those little tips and tricks are so helpful.
The little magnets are just what it needs, more concentration on the flip, instead of trying to grab for the lock downs. Too Cool! Thanks for sharing :)
I bought these plans and glad I did. I’m not great at coming up with things and measurements in my head. I do better when I have instructions I can follow along with. My first attempt at building this was a success. So thank you.
Brad, really like your plans. Just finished the ultimate cordless drill deal but didn't need all the battery storage on a top shelf so I made 3" removable grooves and 1/4" ply inserts to keep my pneumatic nail guns corralled as well. It has been a terrific add to my shop. Looking forward to getting this one underway starting tomorrow!
It was a fun build! I was a hair off on the distance from the drawer to the side which has the drawer slides in a bit of a bind. I will need to install a shim to correct, You may want to final cut the drawer parts after the carcass is assembled to get the exact dimensions. Only thing that came up at the last moment is with the Rigid sander. I looked at it and thought "what is going to happen with all of these items stored in the base?" Good thing the drawer is deep enough to store the sanding belt attachment. Thanks again, my do the drill press stand next.
I have a *very* tight space to build a garage workshop that can still fit both cars when using it for its secondary usage as a place to park cars. My plan is to put a stationary bench with a miter saw on one end, a drawer/storage section in the middle and and a router table on the other end. This bench would be against the back wall. And then I plan on having two mobile stands, one for my thickness planer and the other for my jobsite table saw that would be rolled against the back wall when not being used, one on each side of the stationary bench. The table saw top would then also serve as material support for either the miter saw or the router table. But I was having trouble seeing how to make a stand for the planer that could also serve as an extension of the workcenter when the planer stand was not being used and the stand was stored on the other side of the workcenter. My first thought was to make the top of the planer stand flush with the workcenter top. The planer would then store inside the stand on a platform that slides out on heavy duty draw slides. When I need to use the planer, I roll it out into the middle of the garage floor, slide the platform out and simply pick up the planer and put it on the top surface of the stand. And then I saw your video and I think I have my solution. Instead of putting two tools on the platform, my thinking is that I could put the planer on one side and then extend the surface of the pivoting platform so that when the planer is facing downwards, the surface of the platform on the other side is flush with the sides of the stand. I understand that the pipe is held in place by the two cross pieces and the top and bottom surface of the platform and that I would have to put a cap piece of wood spanning the two cross pieces to provide the fourth surface need to hold the pipe in place. Is there anything that I am missing that would make this not work?
congratulations on your safe and efficient saw setup - exemplary! TH-cam should give blue-ribbon awards for safe shop operations (and warnings for a lot of these tool-heads.)
Hi Brad : Love your work! I've completed the flip top stand , but am worried that the lag bolts to mount the planer won't hold that heavy weight when it's upside down. It seems that's all you use on yours - but did you put the lag screws into anchors, or just straight into the plywood top and spacers. Appreciate your guidance here.
Hi Brad I bought your plans for the flip top cart, and I was wondering what you used to secure the Jet thicknesser to the cart, as you don't mention it? Thanks
Thanks Brad! Been looking for a nice flip-top plan, you hit a home run. Quick question, if I wanted to make the flip-top the same height as the side walls of the cart, that wouldn't be a problem, would it? I would just have to drill the holes for the pipe a little higher on the sidewalls.
Only concern would be that slot that holds the eye bolts would be very close to top and that top portion could break easier. But it doesn't take any weight so should be fine
Brad, Locked up in my garage workshop for a few weeks, I will be building a flip top stand for my Dewalt planer and Ridgid spindle sander. While preparing to purchase plans I stumbled upon the video you did in 2016. It calls for 5/16-18 eyebolt knobs. Your video done in August 2019 uses 1/4-20 knobs. I am assuming either will support the cart. May be dumb question, but I'm a simple man and confuse easily. I just want to get it right. Thanks, Jim
Nice build. I am currently starting with a rework of my 92 sqft shop and plan to buil 3 flip tops to mount all my bench top tools on them. I am planning on putting height adjustable wings on at least one of them to add support for the one my miter saw will be on.
Your build plans for this cart are excellent! Great detail and with the video nothing is left to guesswork. I wish all the plans I purchased were this good.
Are they perfectly level? Seems like using the hooks levels a few degrees, not sure if that effects the planers effectiveness or not since the infeed and outfeed tables are always stressed about being level.
Excellent video and build! Only problem is that if I buy the materials and tools to build this, it might be cheaper to buy the cheaper to buy the JET Universal Benchtop Machine Stand.
How important is it to 'balance' the load out, as in how close to the same weight do the tools have to be. I can see if one is way heavier when flipping the heavier tool down it getting away from you.
Good morning, I'm in the process of building this now. Its my 4th project from you for my garage shop and all have been great and I expect this to be as well. I just have one quick question. What do you use to secure the tools too the bench? I will be securing my Kreg pocket hole jig and my planer on the flip side. Are they just nuts with no bolts to secure them? I know its a total rookie question but I am what I am. Thank you in advance.
Brad and Sue Congratulations on your one million subscribers! I found your channel one night as I began looking for ideas to begin my 3 car garage workshop. I am a mobile base tool believer! This flip top design was a real space saver!
can you tell me how big of a tool I can install in this? or what are the inside dimensions of the lower area, before I buy your plans? love your videos, I have been wanting to build this for a while and I am ready, just need a few details.
This is the best looking/functioning example I’ve seen so far. Had been considering a flip top just to have a home for my scroll saw, but haven’t decided what to put on other side since I really don’t think it would fit my needs for the miter saw because of outfeed needs. Considered putting my 1” x 30”/5” sander on the opposite, but that’s a relatively tall tool.... only other idea is to build a router station while making it exactly workbench height so outfeed isn’t an issue when need it can be rolled over to the bench. Thoughts?
i built an original recipe version and it's been awesome in my shop. the upgrades are a great idea! this is the project that brought me to be a FTBT subscriber, and the content has just been getting better ever since. if you don't have one of these carts, build at least one!
Great project and video. I made a minor error on my build. The 3/4" baltic birch ply was a little shy of 3/4" thick, so my drawer width was a tad short. No problem, cut a new front and back to width and drill new pocket holes. The other recommendation I have is that the flip top should be cut 1/8" or so narrower than the bottom shelf to allow a small gap between the top and the sides so it can rotate freely. Again, its a relatively easy fix. Next up, the miter station!
I'm interested in your no-mar countersink bit. In your comment you state that it's the Amana 55227, but that one seems sized for #6 screws. Do you use #6 or #8 screws? Curious because the Amana 55229 appears to be better suited for #8 screws based on Amazon comments.
Brad this upgrade is awesome. Having build your original I agree 100% with your upgrades as they address some of the issues you pointed out. Now I just need those two new tools and I'll build myself a new one ;) Thanks for being such a great member of the woodworking community.
Hey mate, new to your channel, was looking for "cabinet how to" for my reno's. Your explanations, helpful tips and the length of your content is on on point. Will come come in very handy in the near future. And my shop is small so these space savers will be great. Thanks mate.
Hi. I purchased the plans. How should I alter the plans for a dewalt 735 planer, and ridgid EB4424 belt/spindle sander? In my head I just alter some measurements, but do you recommend I build it as the plan states? Or use different dimensions. Thanks! I’m a beginner woodworker with a tiny shop so this helps a lot
How do you know/measure how tall/large of gap you need, for each tool to rotate without bumping? I have a Ridgid R4331 bench top planer and a Delta Cruzer 10" miter saw that I would like to build this flip top cart for. Thanks!
Thanks Brad. I purchased the plans, but did not see the hardware list in the supplies, but might have missed it. Specifically looking for bolt sizes (eye bolts, thru bolts, etc..) that you used. Can you point me in the right direction?
Love the new improvements Brad....and the Macgyver references!! I will definitely have to implement those whenever the heck I get started on mine. I keep telling myself I need to work on it but I've given myself a deadline and it has to be finished before the holidays get here.
What are the dimensions of the open space within the cabinet for a tool? I want to put my planer and desktop joiner in this unit but need to know how I might need to add inches if the space as now designed to large enough for either tool. Love this unit and am eager to build..I'll see if from your pictures and build list if I can calculate it.
I actually just built this about a week ago. It is very useful so far. I did the same as you for the knobs and washers. I will definitely incorporate the magnet though.
A great explanation how you did it all. My compliments. But, on the Pinterest video ('fast forward', 3:27 time), what is the name of the tune you used? I really like it, great to work with). Thank you in advance, very much. Simon, Rohel (province of Friesland, The Netherlands).
Would this build work with a jointer and planer? Ive seen so many variations of this build but none with a jointer. Is there a reason why or is it just that nobody has made a video on it?
For the top, you mention a 3/4" wide gap for the steel pipe. Where do you find pipe that is 3/4" OD, or am I misunderstanding what you are doing? The 3/4" pipe I'm familiar with is about 1.05" OD. Thanks.
Hi Brad! Great project and design. I have all parts cut to size now, but I will add a power cord sandwiched in the top. I have one question only. Is there a reason why you haven't used glue in the frame? Thank you very much for sharing the assembly.
Hi Brad, I've got a Dewalt 735 planer and a Rikon belt/disc sander that I need on stands. The planer is 92#, the sander is 32#. Any concern about imbalance of weight? More of a worry for me is a 92# planer hanging upside down. Do I need to beef up the plans for the planer? Thanks so much for this great video. Just bought the plans!
I love this flip cart - I'd add my spindle sander and Planer - my spindle sander is 24" high - I see the plans are only for 21" high tools. . . do you recommend building the cart 3" taller or removing the drawer or something else? If I do either am I compromising the tipsy-ness of the cart? Thank you!
I bought your plans for this on Thursday, starting cutting out the pieces on Friday, built it on Saturday and was using it all day Sunday. Great, simple design and easy-to-read plans. Thanks a bunch! (I've got a Dewalt 735X on one side, my 20-year-old Ridgid oscillating sander on the other.)
I really do like this design & idea. So far, IMO the best use of space for a smaller shop (like mine!). I have this "portable" drill press that you add your cordless drill on the top and push it down to drill straight. Im going to use it to do that part @ 1:10.
In the plan page 3, upper left your instructions says: "Drill a 3/4 hole in de center of each side 2" down from the top of the edge..." I was wondering if you meant 3/8" hole since the locking slots are 3/8"wide? Thanks
1:36 "Don't double-stack your sides, because it's just gonna double any error that you have." This is so true, yet so often missed! I've seen experienced woodworkers stack, in a failed attempt to make perfectly-aligned holes through multiple layers (besides, of course, ahem, here....). 🙄🤣 The best way I've found (if the drill press is not possible) instead of drilling double thickness, is to drill half thickness, starting from marks on each surface, having the holes meet in the middle. A template is a good way to get the opposing marks on each surface aligned, but remember to flip it for the reverse surface of the workpiece, or you'll multiply any error in your template (i.e., if the mark is closer to one side than the other).
Get PLANS HERE: fixthisbuildthat.com/fliptopplans
HAY PLS SEND THE LINK FOR THE RIDGID DRILL URE USING ON THIS VIDEO THANK YOU SIR
I love this, and definitely plan to purchase your plans.
Q: Will it fit a Bosch router table with the dimension of:
22.75 x 27 x 14.5 inches (LxWxH)
I would put a DeWalt planer on the other side.
Thanks in advance.
I really like this flip top. Also, you do a great job with your videos. Good dialog, plenty of instruction, and a sense of humor! I’ll be buying the plan for this. And, just a note here for others who watch this and have an attitude about buying plans; I’ve been building cabinets and furniture for 50 plus years. Yes, I could draw out plans of my own and build this. But, for a few bucks I can buy these plans, make any additions, subtractions, or changes of my own if I want to, and get on to actually building this faster and easier than starting with a blank sheet of paper myself. So, I have no qualms about building someone else’s idea if it makes my life easier. This is a well thought out flip top, and I’m looking forward to building it!
just finished bulding mine today and mounting my 13" planer on one side and a sanding station on the other.
The drawer face attachment via hardware holes blew my mind.
Hey Brad......We just bought a jointer and spindle sander .I'm thinking this would be the perfect way to go... If it works out for us, I'll be making another one for the planer and belt sander.........
I'm glad this showed up in my feed. THANKS for the video.
Hello Brad! I ordered the plans earlier this year and finally got around to building the cart over the past week. It turned out great! Two things I want to mention though that may help others with the build. First, I just didn't feel comfortable with the lag screw mounting method for the tools, so I went with holes drilled through the top and machine bolts, washers and nuts to secure my planer and sander. Since the Dewalt 735 planer and my WEN sander have completely different mounting hole patterns, it wasn't a problem at all. And even though two of the sander bolt holes ended up directly under the planer, the Dewalt 735 has what amounts to a "hollow" raised base that sits almost 2" above the surface which allowed for the end of the bolts from the sander to protrude 1/2" with no issue. Secondly, and perhaps most importantly....if you are going to mount a Dewalt 735 planer and plan on centering it on the top, you will NOT be able to flip the top without removing the handle that raises and lowers the planer bed! Ask me how I know...lol. Yes, I was a bit bummed when I tried flipping the top for the first time, but that handle removed with only one hex bolt and the tool for it and other adjustments on the planer sits in its own slot right on top of the planer anyway. The only solution that I could imagine would be to mount the Dewalt 735 at 90 degrees away from what I would consider to be the "normal" way to mount it OR simply move it to the left far enough for that handle to clear the top of the right side piece of the cart. I'm sure those few inches wouldn't cause any issues with the balance of the cart. For me though, I'll be in the "remove the handle" crowd whenever I need to use the sander! 😅
Awesome to hear you finished it up and it's working well. And I can totally appreciate you not wanting to have the 735 off center, lol
Thank you for this information. I was wondering too. I am also building one right now and that was a concern to me. I will follow your advice.
What size bolts, etc did you use for the 735? Thanks!!
@johnpelz ...I used the largest diameter bolts that fit through the holes in the base and the length was determined by the thickness of the shelf that flips.
Or set your box /surface wide enough that it’ll flip with the arm on (26 inches should be wide enough). This is what I’m currently working on.
I'm watching this in 2023. Seeing Brad use Baltic Birch makes me want to cry in jealousy. I miss it so much! lol
Great plan, I did add one enhancement that might help with operations and longevity, I added a 3/4 id. and 1 3/8 OD bearing bored 1/2 into the inside of the side panels
What pipe did you use then? Box store steel pipe wouldn’t fit
Great video and info, thanks! I'm building this now but with a few changes.
Rather than a 3/4" tube to hold the flip top, I'm using a 5/8" steel bar (cuz I had that available). I cut a 5/8 cove along the edges of the pieces that sandwich the bar so there's no wobble as it spins. The bar will rest into 5/8" flange bearings to allow easier flipping.
Also, rather cutting the slots for the retaining eye bolts, I glued 2.5 x 2.5 x .25 piece of poplar at each corner of each piece of the flip top. I already had the 1/4" wood and it made things so much easier. This also allows adding ball catches rather than using magnets.
Lastly, I added a hanging tool storage to the side for the lathe tools.
I made mine 33" wide to fit my mini lathe.
That Jet is quite the upgrade from the old ridgid planer! The new dust cyclone in the back too, amazing!
Total rookie here but I finally bought the plans and made this yesterday f9e my new DeWalt 735w and Rigid Spindle Sander. Took me a day and the plans worked out great! I made a couple small alterations on the fly but otherwise worked awesome!
@@johnmclain6535 what are the benefits of having the planer flipped at eye level? Why not just leave it on the bottom shelf and just feed it the boards?
Your plans were fantastic. Built mine over the weekend. $9 was a steal!
Quick tip for folks building their own. I used 3/4” conduit which has a .9” outside diameter. I made .1” deep dado 1” wide in each of the tops as the 3/4 backing pieces were only .7” thick.
Thanks for the tip. I used the exact rod he used but it was still too tall for a 1x2 (3/4" actual) and just came inside to try and find a solution. Going back out to the shop to cut dados
Thanks for the plans, Easy to follow (along with the video) and the end result looks great and works well! I note a few things; The plan calls for 3/4" pipe and to drill a 3/4" hole on each side. The 3/4" pipe has a 1" outside diameter. The plans should reflect this or at least the verify the proper size holes. Also, I added a 2X6 frame on the bottom of the cart to add a bit more wood and larger screws to attach the casters and give it a bit more weight given that I was attaching a thicknesser which is quite heavy, just a suggestion, thanks.
Nice table, thanks for creating plans. Cam clamps might work as well as those knobs/eye bolts for securing top.
“Just a bit outside!” Classic!!
always a classic :)
Great Bob Uecker ref haha
Does anyone else who has made this experience the sides separating from the top when you spin it? Every time I rotate the top, I have the bang both sides back on to the pipe. I'm not sure what is causing this at the moment but I'm thinking the pipe being captured on the outside of the side with something like a locking collar & thrust bearing would solve this issue...of course you'd loose the extra support block. We'll see! I just got mine finished yesterday and I'm excited to have the space saving opportunity from another FTBT idea. I added some little extras with a walnut drawer front and 3D printed accessory holders and cord wraps. I also need to come up with something to prevent my planer tables from falling during the rotation but overall a win for the shop! Thanks Brad.
Great video. I like the detail and explanations for your design elements. I made mine in almost the same way, but with 2 differences. First, I used 1/2" solid bar and bronze bushing instead of the metal tube. I found they were easier to source. Second, my bottom drawer floats on two thin hardwood pieces instead of a drawer slide. This lets me open it from either side with drawer pulls on both sides (two drawer fronts). Like you, I pull mine out and away from the wall about every time I use it. My floating drawer lets me store accessories for one tool in the front half of the drawer and accessories for the other tool in the other half of the drawer.
Those are good design changes 👍
Hollow tube can let you run power through it to the tools so you don't have to plug them in every time you use them. Easier if you use 2 shorter pieces and a T-junction than trying to cut a hole for the interior access. Make sure you stop the flipping at 180° so it doesn't coil up the cord over time, and run power in through the tube to a power strip in the top that you plug both tools into.
Thanks for the idea in a RV I'm going to build getting idea now but this would be a cool counter top with stove and a conventional over on each side
DUDE, your ideas are genius. I'm loving your builds. You've got a new customer.
I got the flip top tool stand done and its great. thanks for such great detail in the plans. last month I did the mobile miter saw stand .I got a lot of great comments on it. thanks again. my son thinks I built a shop just so I can build projects for the shop. and the french cleats are great also.... maybe the kids right.
Am planing to build a flip top myself. Will keep this design in mind. May stiffen the sides by adding 4” deep drawers to each side and maybe a little taller with taller drawer on bottom. Keep the dust rollin! Oh ya, new subscriber here.
Your explanations are so clear - fantastic build, thankyou. I’m thinking of changing my current mitre saw cart to one of these, so that when it flips, the other side is a flat work table, which can be an outfeed table for my table saw cart.
I was wondering if this would make a good cart for a mitre saw; did yu follow through with this idea
I made this a while ago. It's working great. Nice to have the plans since the tools you put on the original build were the same ones I had. Rare that I can just follow plans with no changes. I did the pocket holes for the bottom. in a slightly different order. I first attached the shelf, then the bottom. I didn't have to use the "funyuns in the vending machine" technique that way. Thanks for the good plans!
Just bought the plans!!!! I have to build the CNC Table and work bench first...but ya know...COVID!!! plenty of time lol I'm going to need a 42' TV in my shop to watch all your videos as I build!!
I love how you can clearly see your drill press behind you when you drill that hole cooked...Been there
Great video! Watched a bunch of YT flip top stand videos and your's is the best. You've given me my next project for my disc sander and spindle sander.
Just ordered all the supplies I need to build this. Can’t wait to get started.
Did not find in the description which round-over bit you use on your trimmer. Thank you for all the great videos!
Didn't expect the plans to be so detailed - thought it would be a few drawings and dimensions. Great job with the plans and the video!
Nice work!
I've got the plans and most of the material already. But I'm in the middle of a major purge of my basement/shop. When done, I'll get going on this build. I have a Dewalt 735 with an upgraded Shelix head. I'll be picking up a Ridgid oscillating belt/spindle sander. This will be perfect. But I have a suggestion for your build. When assembling the box, t would be much easier to install the shelf/drawer top before the bottom. Much less hassle with installing the pocket screws. If you set t up carefully and use some bar clamps and temporary spacers, it will work just as well. Just my .02 worth.
Love your shop, videos and precision.
If I might offer a suggestion on throwing away your Kregg driver bits? As a retired toolmaker/moldmaker who has sharpened my own drill bits and cutters for years……try using a pedestal grinder to remove the ‘rounded’ edge end.
Use water to dip your bit into keeping it relatively cool, if your bit gets too hot and ‘blues up’ you’ve taken the temper (hardness) out it.
You should add more life to that bit, saving you some money.
MikeC
Great build. One suggestion. Use a pipe cutter to cut the pipe. Makes it a lot easier. Just finished mine. Came out great thanks to your video.
Awesome video Brad. I really appreciate you showing the learning process. It makes a huge difference during a build. Those little tips and tricks are so helpful.
those make all the difference in the world!
The little magnets are just what it needs, more concentration on the flip, instead of trying to grab for the lock downs. Too Cool! Thanks for sharing :)
I bought these plans and glad I did. I’m not great at coming up with things and measurements in my head. I do better when I have instructions I can follow along with. My first attempt at building this was a success. So thank you.
You're welcome! 👍
Brad, really like your plans. Just finished the ultimate cordless drill deal but didn't need all the battery storage on a top shelf so I made 3" removable grooves and 1/4" ply inserts to keep my pneumatic nail guns corralled as well. It has been a terrific add to my shop. Looking forward to getting this one underway starting tomorrow!
Subscribed and saved this video...I'm just getting back into wood working after about 30+ years and my work space is small so this will be very handy.
It was a fun build! I was a hair off on the distance from the drawer to the side which has the drawer slides in a bit of a bind. I will need to install a shim to correct, You may want to final cut the drawer parts after the carcass is assembled to get the exact dimensions. Only thing that came up at the last moment is with the Rigid sander. I looked at it and thought "what is going to happen with all of these items stored in the base?" Good thing the drawer is deep enough to store the sanding belt attachment. Thanks again, my do the drill press stand next.
Sir good work super video
I have a *very* tight space to build a garage workshop that can still fit both cars when using it for its secondary usage as a place to park cars. My plan is to put a stationary bench with a miter saw on one end, a drawer/storage section in the middle and and a router table on the other end. This bench would be against the back wall. And then I plan on having two mobile stands, one for my thickness planer and the other for my jobsite table saw that would be rolled against the back wall when not being used, one on each side of the stationary bench. The table saw top would then also serve as material support for either the miter saw or the router table.
But I was having trouble seeing how to make a stand for the planer that could also serve as an extension of the workcenter when the planer stand was not being used and the stand was stored on the other side of the workcenter. My first thought was to make the top of the planer stand flush with the workcenter top. The planer would then store inside the stand on a platform that slides out on heavy duty draw slides. When I need to use the planer, I roll it out into the middle of the garage floor, slide the platform out and simply pick up the planer and put it on the top surface of the stand.
And then I saw your video and I think I have my solution. Instead of putting two tools on the platform, my thinking is that I could put the planer on one side and then extend the surface of the pivoting platform so that when the planer is facing downwards, the surface of the platform on the other side is flush with the sides of the stand. I understand that the pipe is held in place by the two cross pieces and the top and bottom surface of the platform and that I would have to put a cap piece of wood spanning the two cross pieces to provide the fourth surface need to hold the pipe in place. Is there anything that I am missing that would make this not work?
congratulations on your safe and efficient saw setup - exemplary! TH-cam should give blue-ribbon awards for safe shop operations (and warnings for a lot of these tool-heads.)
Nice clear instructions and great video. Thank you !
I channeled my eighth grade self....best line I heard in long time...Great Build also!!
Will this work for a Table Saw? Specifically for Dewalt DW745...
Awesome build. a sash lock on oppisite corners ( and a top stop) would work and if there's a bearing the table could rotate with little effort.
Hi Brad : Love your work! I've completed the flip top stand , but am worried that the lag bolts to mount the planer won't hold that heavy weight when it's upside down. It seems that's all you use on yours - but did you put the lag screws into anchors, or just straight into the plywood top and spacers. Appreciate your guidance here.
I'd like to know also. I have a Dewalt that is over 80 lbs.
Hi Brad I bought your plans for the flip top cart, and I was wondering what you used to secure the Jet thicknesser to the cart, as you don't mention it? Thanks
Great channel and I really love your stuff. I’m putting together a shop right now.
Thanks Brad! Been looking for a nice flip-top plan, you hit a home run. Quick question, if I wanted to make the flip-top the same height as the side walls of the cart, that wouldn't be a problem, would it? I would just have to drill the holes for the pipe a little higher on the sidewalls.
Only concern would be that slot that holds the eye bolts would be very close to top and that top portion could break easier. But it doesn't take any weight so should be fine
@@Fixthisbuildthat I was thinking of using some simple gate latches instead of the eye bolts to secure the top
Brad,
Locked up in my garage workshop for a few weeks, I will be building a flip top stand for my Dewalt planer and Ridgid spindle sander. While preparing to purchase plans I stumbled upon the video you did in 2016. It calls for 5/16-18 eyebolt knobs. Your video done in August 2019 uses 1/4-20 knobs. I am assuming either will support the cart. May be dumb question, but I'm a simple man and confuse easily. I just want to get it right.
Thanks,
Jim
Great idea with those little magnets!
Nice build. I am currently starting with a rework of my 92 sqft shop and plan to buil 3 flip tops to mount all my bench top tools on them. I am planning on putting height adjustable wings on at least one of them to add support for the one my miter saw will be on.
that sounds awesome!
Your build plans for this cart are excellent! Great detail and with the video nothing is left to guesswork. I wish all the plans I purchased were this good.
Are they perfectly level? Seems like using the hooks levels a few degrees, not sure if that effects the planers effectiveness or not since the infeed and outfeed tables are always stressed about being level.
Very nice innovation Brad.
Excellent video and build! Only problem is that if I buy the materials and tools to build this, it might be cheaper to buy the cheaper to buy the JET Universal Benchtop Machine Stand.
How important is it to 'balance' the load out, as in how close to the same weight do the tools have to be. I can see if one is way heavier when flipping the heavier tool down it getting away from you.
Good morning, I'm in the process of building this now. Its my 4th project from you for my garage shop and all have been great and I expect this to be as well. I just have one quick question. What do you use to secure the tools too the bench? I will be securing my Kreg pocket hole jig and my planer on the flip side. Are they just nuts with no bolts to secure them? I know its a total rookie question but I am what I am. Thank you in advance.
Brad and Sue Congratulations on your one million subscribers! I found your channel one night as I began looking for ideas to begin my 3 car garage workshop. I am a mobile base tool believer! This flip top design was a real space saver!
can you tell me how big of a tool I can install in this? or what are the inside dimensions of the lower area, before I buy your plans? love your videos, I have been wanting to build this for a while and I am ready, just need a few details.
Hey man great job and very explanatory. Is there any chance to have the plans in metric?
This is the best looking/functioning example I’ve seen so far. Had been considering a flip top just to have a home for my scroll saw, but haven’t decided what to put on other side since I really don’t think it would fit my needs for the miter saw because of outfeed needs. Considered putting my 1” x 30”/5” sander on the opposite, but that’s a relatively tall tool.... only other idea is to build a router station while making it exactly workbench height so outfeed isn’t an issue when need it can be rolled over to the bench. Thoughts?
i built an original recipe version and it's been awesome in my shop. the upgrades are a great idea! this is the project that brought me to be a FTBT subscriber, and the content has just been getting better ever since.
if you don't have one of these carts, build at least one!
Thanks, Mike!!
Thanks for the vid! Do you see any problems with making the tabletop flush with the top of the sides rather than being a couple inches below?
Great project and video. I made a minor error on my build. The 3/4" baltic birch ply was a little shy of 3/4" thick, so my drawer width was a tad short. No problem, cut a new front and back to width and drill new pocket holes. The other recommendation I have is that the flip top should be cut 1/8" or so narrower than the bottom shelf to allow a small gap between the top and the sides so it can rotate freely. Again, its a relatively easy fix. Next up, the miter station!
Awesome! Have fun with the miter station 👍
Gotta have one...after chopsaw station
Best flip top I’ve seen. Great video too. 👍🏽
thank you!
I'm interested in your no-mar countersink bit. In your comment you state that it's the Amana 55227, but that one seems sized for #6 screws. Do you use #6 or #8 screws? Curious because the Amana 55229 appears to be better suited for #8 screws based on Amazon comments.
Brad this upgrade is awesome. Having build your original I agree 100% with your upgrades as they address some of the issues you pointed out. Now I just need those two new tools and I'll build myself a new one ;) Thanks for being such a great member of the woodworking community.
Thanks, brother! 💪
Hey mate, new to your channel, was looking for "cabinet how to" for my reno's. Your explanations, helpful tips and the length of your content is on on point. Will come come in very handy in the near future. And my shop is small so these space savers will be great. Thanks mate.
You're welcome!
Any ideas to cut the slots for the hooks? I don’t have a table saw and am making most of this with my track saw
Hi. I purchased the plans. How should I alter the plans for a dewalt 735 planer, and ridgid EB4424 belt/spindle sander? In my head I just alter some measurements, but do you recommend I build it as the plan states? Or use different dimensions.
Thanks! I’m a beginner woodworker with a tiny shop so this helps a lot
Plans will work as-is for those two 👍
I love your humor, great video, thanks.
How do you know/measure how tall/large of gap you need, for each tool to rotate without bumping? I have a Ridgid R4331 bench top planer and a Delta Cruzer 10" miter saw that I would like to build this flip top cart for. Thanks!
Thanks Brad. I purchased the plans, but did not see the hardware list in the supplies, but might have missed it. Specifically looking for bolt sizes (eye bolts, thru bolts, etc..) that you used. Can you point me in the right direction?
Love the new improvements Brad....and the Macgyver references!! I will definitely have to implement those whenever the heck I get started on mine. I keep telling myself I need to work on it but I've given myself a deadline and it has to be finished before the holidays get here.
Get on it, Travis! :)
@@Fixthisbuildthat I would love to Brad! Anytime you wanna come on up to KC and babysit the twins, I can start working on it. lol
+1 for spelling MacGyver correctly!
What are the dimensions of the open space within the cabinet for a tool? I want to put my planer and desktop joiner in this unit but need to know how I might need to add inches if the space as now designed to large enough for either tool. Love this unit and am eager to build..I'll see if from your pictures and build list if I can calculate it.
I actually just built this about a week ago. It is very useful so far. I did the same as you for the knobs and washers. I will definitely incorporate the magnet though.
Only took you a week to figure out what took me years :)
As always.... very nice build... What do you use for your waterborne poly finish?
A great explanation how you did it all. My compliments. But, on the Pinterest video ('fast forward', 3:27 time), what is the name of the tune you used? I really like it, great to work with). Thank you in advance, very much. Simon, Rohel (province of Friesland, The Netherlands).
With hair like that that you can build anything. 👍👍
Great job Brad.
Yeah, that was something 😂😂
Thank you for the plans. Came out nice!
Would this build work with a jointer and planer? Ive seen so many variations of this build but none with a jointer. Is there a reason why or is it just that nobody has made a video on it?
Wondered the same.
do you ever get rocking from side to side when moving it a round? thanks
For the top, you mention a 3/4" wide gap for the steel pipe. Where do you find pipe that is 3/4" OD, or am I misunderstanding what you are doing? The 3/4" pipe I'm familiar with is about 1.05" OD. Thanks.
Hi Brad! Great project and design. I have all parts cut to size now, but I will add a power cord sandwiched in the top. I have one question only. Is there a reason why you haven't used glue in the frame? Thank you very much for sharing the assembly.
Hi Brad, I've got a Dewalt 735 planer and a Rikon belt/disc sander that I need on stands. The planer is 92#, the sander is 32#. Any concern about imbalance of weight? More of a worry for me is a 92# planer hanging upside down. Do I need to beef up the plans for the planer? Thanks so much for this great video. Just bought the plans!
I love this flip cart - I'd add my spindle sander and Planer - my spindle sander is 24" high - I see the plans are only for 21" high tools. . . do you recommend building the cart 3" taller or removing the drawer or something else? If I do either am I compromising the tipsy-ness of the cart? Thank you!
I need to build one for my planer and ridgid spindle sender
That's a great combo
Great idea! So two years later...any additional improvements you would make to this?
I bought your plans for this on Thursday, starting cutting out the pieces on Friday, built it on Saturday and was using it all day Sunday. Great, simple design and easy-to-read plans. Thanks a bunch!
(I've got a Dewalt 735X on one side, my 20-year-old Ridgid oscillating sander on the other.)
Did you have to change why measurements?
@@ericawilliams18 I don't recall changing anything.
@@DavidGunter okay thanks I have same planner and it. Needs a home asap it’s so heavy
I really do like this design & idea. So far, IMO the best use of space for a smaller shop (like mine!).
I have this "portable" drill press that you add your cordless drill on the top and push it down to drill straight. Im going to use it to do that part @ 1:10.
What size screw did you use on the casters? I know the 5/8 length but didn't hear the size. Thanks
Just a #8
@@Fixthisbuildthat ..Thank you. I'm in the middle of the build. Very good plans.
haha.. 1997.. yep, I built that same flip top. Had my Sander on one side, and my grinder on the other. I'm 64 btw
When doing the drawer how high was the spacer you put the slides on?
I love your design! I only wish I could afford plywood like used in the video!😎 Nowadays the plywood costs more than the tools! Very nice work!!
Thank a democrat for that
great video, perfect for our small garage in our condo complex.
In the plan page 3, upper left your instructions says: "Drill a 3/4 hole in de center of each side 2" down from the top of the edge..."
I was wondering if you meant 3/8" hole since the locking slots are 3/8"wide?
Thanks
Nope, 3/4" center hole is for the steel tube 👍. 3/8" slots are on the edges
Can you use a router straight bit for those slots instead of a table saw?
1:36 "Don't double-stack your sides, because it's just gonna double any error that you have."
This is so true, yet so often missed! I've seen experienced woodworkers stack, in a failed attempt to make perfectly-aligned holes through multiple layers (besides, of course, ahem, here....). 🙄🤣
The best way I've found (if the drill press is not possible) instead of drilling double thickness, is to drill half thickness, starting from marks on each surface, having the holes meet in the middle. A template is a good way to get the opposing marks on each surface aligned, but remember to flip it for the reverse surface of the workpiece, or you'll multiply any error in your template (i.e., if the mark is closer to one side than the other).
Love your channel. Do you have a link/ brand name for the counter sink bit you use in this video?
One of my favorite tools. Bit.ly/ftbtcountersink