Love your videos. I had an old rotten deck that I took down which was a death trap waiting to happen. Watching a bunch of you videos I've replaced the entire deck. Inspector said he thinks the house would fall down before the deck does and was shocked to see all the new stuff I used. Ledgerlok, Simpson strong tie accents, g-tape etc. Thanks for all you do.
Best educational stair Jack/stringer video I’ve seen yet. Thank you for making it so easy to understand. I do wish you would have touched on what me last thing at the very end. What if you had concrete sloping down away and it increased the projected height from concrete to decking, and how to refigure your calculations. Thanks you for the video
When building decks for customers, I skip the stairs and build a slide going down, and a mini-tramp to bounce back up. They have fun once they get the hang of it, and it keeps me from having to do math. It's a win-win!
To compinsate for the sloping ground id put a lazer line at the top of the deck boards and measure out along the ground the total number of treads and measure from here to the lazer line as this is where the stair case will actually sit
Thank you for the info. But in my case I'm replacing some existing stairs .I my build are exterior steps which are going down a hillside and running just along the ground level ( if I build the same thing as the original set, which is what the homeowner requested. Also, the steps were attached inside the stringers ( which are not traditional cut stringers but just uncut 2x10's ( not 2x12's and the steps( treads) are 2x12s or real measurement 11.25 in depth. So I need to determine the over all rise from the to of the deck to the bottom of the hill where my steps need to end up. I could have simply duplicated what was there inch for inch , no prob. Except , where the original treads were two 2x12's. In depth and they only want me to use the one 2x12 for each step( tread) . So I have the unknown number. ( Total rise) I have a survey optic I could set up on a tripod and the create a 2x2 long pole and mark in off in half " increments and plumb it up at the bottom of the hill and level my optic and find my number on the stick and then subtract the height of my tripod and optic to the deck from the total and that should give me my over all rise . As it stands , the have materials already in site and the bought 1x6 " lumber thinking that would be my rise pieces ( facia board) to box the steps with a . 25 over hang on each tread. So true rise would only be 5,50 because the want the tread flush against the riser which I lose the thickness ofy 2x12 but gain it back because the previous tread rest on top of the riser.. so 5.5" is the riser height. And I know thats not going to work on this existing pitch of the original steps which is 20°. My tread with continue to walk down my string before I ever get to the bottom. Which incidentally is 32' if I measure along the the stringer atvthe current 20,° pitch. Now that your prob totally confused... What do you suggest. Besides letting someone else have this headache.. lol I know that isn't going to
Good video, but if you want some insight into the 17% subscription rate, just consider some people may storehouse this particular video, but not want constant updates when you post.
What if the ground that the bottom of my steps will sit on is significantly lower than the ground closer to the deck I’m dealing with very un level ground
I like that you always drop top tread instead of making it level with deck! Doesn't make sense to have stairs run another 11 1/2" into the yard needlessly. In my case, this also helps keep all treads > 36" below adjacent non-tempered window. Would love to hear your advice on attaching stringers at that top dropped tread - what method/materials do you like to use to extend below joist? Thanks - wish you were in my area :-)
I just built my deck and i love that put the top tread even with the top. The entire stair sits on the front of the deck i also was able to use a 2 by 8 Teco (seen it on you tube) just put a 2 inch cut in the back of the stringer and slid the Tico on then nailed it feels much more solid than only a couple of inches on
Thank you for NOT putting your top rise even with he deck. To be honest that shouldn't even be an option. As a finish carpenter of 35 plus yrs, I know from experience that it not only looks bad, but causes problems with the handrail layout and can be a trip hazard for some people (like elderly ones trying to negotiate their way down the stairs). I hate when I see that done. It just screams cheap to me and looks very unprofessional.
Aha moment on compensating for the tread height on the bottom riser. My first set is coming up in a couple of weeks and I would have been scratching my head.
I have still been waiting for a video on how to prepare a deck for stairs. are you planning on having one soon. i love your videos and are part of the 17%. i am running out of time as it is almost framed up. thanks for your help.
The height measurement should be from finished floor to finished floor so with a deck you should include the deckboard thickness in the 120 inches measurement when calculating the rises. Then your stringers always attach down rise + tread thickness - deck board thickness from the top of framing.
I have a question. I am asked to build a 23'x12' deck off second floor of building. The plans show a straight staircase coming off the deck 23' 3" with 4' x 5' landing in the middle with another set of stairs off of that. Materials are pre purchased they just need labor cost to build it including concrete piers. Based off square footage how do I factor the stairs to come up with a price. I'm in Missouri east of Kansas City. Any advice would be appreciated.
What is always left out in these, which is really important, is how much space do you have from the top of the stairs diagonally to the bottom of the stairs (total run). This is vitally important in calculating the treads (depth and how many) and the rise. Any advice on that?
If i'm reading this right, your asking about the Hypotenuse essentially, well you should able to find that out pretty easily by having height and base of triangle. pythagorean theorem.
The run is either fixed, for ex. inside of a house thats pre planned, or like for most decks you build the landing where you want it to go. Most people, for decks, want a certain tread depth like 2 deck boards etc. So the total run is figured out by just adding all the tread depths, for however many treads it takes for your rise height. If you're working with a fixed run, like you have to land at a particular place then you just have to play with it or use a calculator like a construction master pro, which is way easier, but your tread depth may not be as deep as you want. For decks and stuff it looks way better to use full pieces whether its 2 or 3 or whatever.
Hi. My steep staircase is 103 from top to bottom. The steps are 8.5 x 9 inches in height. They are horrible! How can I fix them? My dog had back surgery and he can't walk up them. My arm is killing me! Lol. Please help
Hi Jason! How do you correctly calculate the top run of your stringer/jack? If you're mounting your stringers to the board (which will then be attached to the rim joist), the width of that board needs to be added, also the thickness of the fascia... any chance you could do another video to cover those details? I need to re-cut my stringers (the steps are too short now - two boards don't fit side by side) and I'm hesitant because I'm sure how to account for all the nuances and don't want to waste more expensive wood... Thanks!
Step off one less stair, this lowers the stringers down the rim joist creating the last step with the deck. It also move the stairs in a tread so if that effects your total rise watch that. I have never cut stairs not using 10" treads, works with 2x12 leaves 1.25" nose and 2 2x6 with a .25" gap same nose. Cut the thickness of the treads off the bottom step, with your total rise going from finish height, top of decking to finish of landing, ground concrete etc. Boom
Not bad overall, but you sometimes said "Stair" when you meant riser. I don't think you ever said "tread" referring to the step. You did bounce back and forth a bit which can be a bit confusing for new people. Its like using 1000 words when 200 will do. You could have addressed using the FINISHED height of the top landing and trimming the bottom riser depending on the thickness of the treads. You asked.
It’s kind of concerning how many contractors are asking questions about how to build stairs n these comments 😂. I guess it’s good they are trying to learn though.
@@drdecks I was asking because I just built a set of stringers that are 10” on the tread and 7” on the riser. I had mimicked the stairs in our house so it would be a natural transition up the deck and into our bi-level. I’ve only recently subscribed to your channel and I must say your deck designs look very cool !
Deck board width has nothing to do with tread depth. 11 1/2" treads are much too wide for 7 1/2" risers. Codes allow it, however the optimum riser to tread ratio is 2r + t = 25. A 7 1/2" riser should ideally have 10" treads. Risers typically should not exceed 7 1/2 " because 10 inches is about the minimum tread you want. It's a misconception that longer treads are more comfortable, they are not. Safe stairs are made to be safe and comfortable for a range of people of different heights. He should also point out that long deck stairs over a 147" run are not to code and should have an intermediate platform. I'd ignore everything he says in this video.
Love your videos. I had an old rotten deck that I took down which was a death trap waiting to happen. Watching a bunch of you videos I've replaced the entire deck. Inspector said he thinks the house would fall down before the deck does and was shocked to see all the new stuff I used. Ledgerlok, Simpson strong tie accents, g-tape etc.
Thanks for all you do.
Best educational stair Jack/stringer video I’ve seen yet. Thank you for making it so easy to understand. I do wish you would have touched on what me last thing at the very end. What if you had concrete sloping down away and it increased the projected height from concrete to decking, and how to refigure your calculations.
Thanks you for the video
NICELY EXPLAINED AND CLEARLY PUT.
Thanks for the info. Is a 2x12 16ft good enough to build the stringer.
When you cut the thickness of the tread off the bottom of the stringer, won't that put the whole stringer out of level across the run?
When building decks for customers, I skip the stairs and build a slide going down, and a mini-tramp to bounce back up. They have fun once they get the hang of it, and it keeps me from having to do math.
It's a win-win!
Thankyou extremely helpful
So how long a board do you need??
To compinsate for the sloping ground id put a lazer line at the top of the deck boards and measure out along the ground the total number of treads and measure from here to the lazer line as this is where the stair case will actually sit
Thank you for the info. But in my case I'm replacing some existing stairs .I my build are exterior steps which are going down a hillside and running just along the ground level ( if I build the same thing as the original set, which is what the homeowner requested. Also, the steps were attached inside the stringers ( which are not traditional cut stringers but just uncut 2x10's ( not 2x12's and the steps( treads) are 2x12s or real measurement 11.25 in depth. So I need to determine the over all rise from the to of the deck to the bottom of the hill where my steps need to end up.
I could have simply duplicated what was there inch for inch , no prob. Except , where the original treads were two 2x12's. In depth and they only want me to use the one 2x12 for each step( tread) . So I have the unknown number. ( Total rise)
I have a survey optic I could set up on a tripod and the create a 2x2 long pole and mark in off in half " increments and plumb it up at the bottom of the hill and level my optic and find my number on the stick and then subtract the height of my tripod and optic to the deck from the total and that should give me my over all rise . As it stands , the have materials already in site and the bought 1x6 " lumber thinking that would be my rise pieces ( facia board) to box the steps with a . 25 over hang on each tread.
So true rise would only be 5,50 because the want the tread flush against the riser which I lose the thickness ofy 2x12 but gain it back because the previous tread rest on top of the riser.. so 5.5" is the
riser height. And I know thats not going to work on this existing pitch of the original steps which is 20°. My tread with continue to walk down my string before I ever get to the bottom. Which incidentally is 32' if I measure along the the stringer atvthe current 20,° pitch.
Now that your prob totally confused... What do you suggest. Besides letting someone else have this headache.. lol
I know that isn't going to
I need details of how the top of the stringer is cut. I always see pictures but the cut details never seem to be include.
Good video, but if you want some insight into the 17% subscription rate, just consider some people may storehouse this particular video, but not want constant updates when you post.
It actually helped me honestly and was surprised, so thank you for explaining it.
Another excellent presentation. Thank you.
Thanks for a. Clear explanation god bless
Thank you Dr Deck! You really cleared up the questions I had 🙏🏼
Very good video!! Thanks!
Dr. you inspired me to get the quick snap and this thing is way rad. I can feel my carpentry powers increasing. Good info here as well.
Thanks for this one. Good info to help beginners.
How to determine the over all lenght of the of board you would need to make the stringer
What if the ground that the bottom of my steps will sit on is significantly lower than the ground closer to the deck I’m dealing with very un level ground
I like that you always drop top tread instead of making it level with deck! Doesn't make sense to have stairs run another 11 1/2" into the yard needlessly. In my case, this also helps keep all treads > 36" below adjacent non-tempered window.
Would love to hear your advice on attaching stringers at that top dropped tread - what method/materials do you like to use to extend below joist? Thanks - wish you were in my area :-)
I just built my deck and i love that put the top tread even with the top. The entire stair sits on the front of the deck i also was able to use a 2 by 8 Teco (seen it on you tube) just put a 2 inch cut in the back of the stringer and slid the Tico on then nailed it feels much more solid than only a couple of inches on
Thanks, that helped a lot!
Thank you for NOT putting your top rise even with he deck. To be honest that shouldn't even be an option. As a finish carpenter of 35 plus yrs, I know from experience that it not only looks bad, but causes problems with the handrail layout and can be a trip hazard for some people (like elderly ones trying to negotiate their way down the stairs). I hate when I see that done. It just screams cheap to me and looks very unprofessional.
Yeah I always thought it looks really ugly.
Love it. Come down to Portland please
Aha moment on compensating for the tread height on the bottom riser. My first set is coming up in a couple of weeks and I would have been scratching my head.
Thanks for the help
I have still been waiting for a video on how to prepare a deck for stairs. are you planning on having one soon. i love your videos and are part of the 17%. i am running out of time as it is almost framed up. thanks for your help.
thanks, I just found your video "How To Attach Stairs To A Deck -| Dr Decks" that was a big help.
The height measurement should be from finished floor to finished floor so with a deck you should include the deckboard thickness in the 120 inches measurement when calculating the rises. Then your stringers always attach down rise + tread thickness - deck board thickness from the top of framing.
How do you add a platform to this calculation?
Thanks, Doc. It helped!
I love your idea brother
Interesting, do you have a video showing the fascia risers to the edge?
Very good brotha
You made a level line at the bottom but I don’t think you explained if the ground had a slope.
Thanks 🙏
Great video thanks
I have a question. I am asked to build a 23'x12' deck off second floor of building. The plans show a straight staircase coming off the deck 23' 3" with 4' x 5' landing in the middle with another set of stairs off of that. Materials are pre purchased they just need labor cost to build it including concrete piers. Based off square footage how do I factor the stairs to come up with a price. I'm in Missouri east of Kansas City. Any advice would be appreciated.
What's thebest way to connect the stringers to the side of the deck/deer blind?
There are many websites that you can use to do the math. I'm doing a box frame for extra strength.
Helpful
I thank you my teacher
Good info
What if you have a smaller area to work with? If I lay it out like this my stringers are too long. How yould you do that to fit?
This is fantastic, the explanation is very simple and easy to understand
What is always left out in these, which is really important, is how much space do you have from the top of the stairs diagonally to the bottom of the stairs (total run). This is vitally important in calculating the treads (depth and how many) and the rise.
Any advice on that?
If i'm reading this right, your asking about the Hypotenuse essentially, well you should able to find that out pretty easily by having height and base of triangle. pythagorean theorem.
The run is either fixed, for ex. inside of a house thats pre planned, or like for most decks you build the landing where you want it to go. Most people, for decks, want a certain tread depth like 2 deck boards etc. So the total run is figured out by just adding all the tread depths, for however many treads it takes for your rise height. If you're working with a fixed run, like you have to land at a particular place then you just have to play with it or use a calculator like a construction master pro, which is way easier, but your tread depth may not be as deep as you want. For decks and stuff it looks way better to use full pieces whether its 2 or 3 or whatever.
NICE!
Hi. My steep staircase is 103 from top to bottom. The steps are 8.5 x 9 inches in height. They are horrible! How can I fix them? My dog had back surgery and he can't walk up them. My arm is killing me! Lol. Please help
Hi Jason! How do you correctly calculate the top run of your stringer/jack? If you're mounting your stringers to the board (which will then be attached to the rim joist), the width of that board needs to be added, also the thickness of the fascia... any chance you could do another video to cover those details? I need to re-cut my stringers (the steps are too short now - two boards don't fit side by side) and I'm hesitant because I'm sure how to account for all the nuances and don't want to waste more expensive wood... Thanks!
Step off one less stair, this lowers the stringers down the rim joist creating the last step with the deck. It also move the stairs in a tread so if that effects your total rise watch that.
I have never cut stairs not using 10" treads, works with 2x12 leaves 1.25" nose and 2 2x6 with a .25" gap same nose.
Cut the thickness of the treads off the bottom step, with your total rise going from finish height, top of decking to finish of landing, ground concrete etc. Boom
How many stringers needed per inch?
Tip/trick for measuring total rise on a slope?
Try to find your finish height and level out to your finished landing spot.
Nice jod thank
Beuty brother 🔥🔥🔥🔥👍
The reason a small percentage of people subscribe to any channel is , and i can put it eloquently; People stay for the lesson, not the school year
Not bad overall, but you sometimes said "Stair" when you meant riser. I don't think you ever said "tread" referring to the step. You did bounce back and forth a bit which can be a bit confusing for new people. Its like using 1000 words when 200 will do. You could have addressed using the FINISHED height of the top landing and trimming the bottom riser depending on the thickness of the treads. You asked.
It’s kind of concerning how many contractors are asking questions about how to build stairs n these comments 😂. I guess it’s good they are trying to learn though.
I would like to see one when your yard slops away
I thought that rise and run added together couldn’t exceed 18”…? Or am I mistaken…?
I’ve always been told you need to keep 5” thickness of material in the jack cut or it may fail inspection
@@drdecks I was asking because I just built a set of stringers that are 10” on the tread and 7” on the riser. I had mimicked the stairs in our house so it would be a natural transition up the deck and into our bi-level. I’ve only recently subscribed to your channel and I must say your deck designs look very cool !
Deck board width has nothing to do with tread depth. 11 1/2" treads are much too wide for 7 1/2" risers. Codes allow it, however the optimum riser to tread ratio is 2r + t = 25. A 7 1/2" riser should ideally have 10" treads. Risers typically should not exceed 7 1/2 " because 10 inches is about the minimum tread you want. It's a misconception that longer treads are more comfortable, they are not. Safe stairs are made to be safe and comfortable for a range of people of different heights. He should also point out that long deck stairs over a 147" run are not to code and should have an intermediate platform. I'd ignore everything he says in this video.