Another Way To Layout Stair Stringers With Only A Level, Pencil And Tape Measure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- www.homebuildi... Click on link to learn more about stair building, home repairs and plenty of other construction projects around your house. In this video I will provide do it yourselfer's with another way to layout stair stringers. Sometimes it's difficult to learn how to use a framing square, even though it might be faster and more accurate, but it's good to have other options.
This video was SO HELPFUL to me! Your use of graphics and no nonsense discussion make it so clear. I am rebuilding our stairs this week. I have done a lot of framing, but never stairs. Now and I feel much better prepared. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful and thanks for the kind words.
My deck stringers needed to come down onto a slightly sloping downward concrete sidewalk. This method is the only way to cut the bottom of the stringer so that it conforms to that slight slope and, at the same time, keeps all the stairs at a 180-degree angle.
Once I had that, following all the steps presented here worked perfectly!!
Thank you so much for this approach.
Awesome and thanks for sharing.
It's not the only way. Not many things in building have just one way to do it. Off the top of my head you could measure to a lasered line where your stringers end at the concrete. Find the difference in height of the concrete relative to your centre line (if this is where you took your initial overall rise from) at the lowest point of where your stringers will end. Let's say that the difference is extreme, say 50mm. Now, prop in their position, all stringers 50mm higher than where they will finally rest and cut a 50mm thick block. Using that block and a pencil, scribe the bottom riser of all stringers around the entirety of it's perimeter. Cut and place all the stringers at their true heights. This way ensures you have a near perfect replication of the contours of the concrete in both directions. This, essentially, is the offset method, which a lot of finish carpenters and cabinet installers use.
I first played out with a level and tape when I first was building decks
It allowed me to lay the stringers on the lawn where I wanted to land often on a downward sloped lawn where rise and run took a bit of time- time my pricing didn't afford me.
Divide the hypotenuse length by a number that was close to 13 but less than 14
But first-
Draw a vertical- plumb line aligned with and above the landing riser, the height of that line is the ht of the bottom scribe
Level off of all the hypotenuse marks with the stringer in the air, deduct tread thickness from the bottom and your off
If you can make a triangle with a stop on the hypotenuse ot the triangle you can really fly
As and former ironworker. I am now learning carpentry. So you allow for the deduction of 3/4 in only on the first riser and run outside of that it's 7-1/2 in rise. Your a good teacher.
Thanks and good points on the riser measurement deduction from tread run.
Great video, thank you! One question: how about when there is a wall on top and I don't have to place the wood to make the marking cut out?
This is amazing stuff. I have no ideal what he talking about. But I get the gist of it. Got to replace step and foundation of stringers. Who ever built the deck used untreated redwood. And it has just rotted to all hell. Was hoping to use it the old one as a pattern. Only 5 steps from top deck to bottom deck. But your video gives me hope. And people wonder why they need to learn math.
Great video, thank you! It really simplifies the process for those challenged by geometry.
You're very welcome!
Thank you for your videos.
1. I am building a sunroom from my deck. The doorstep located at 9’4” from the ground. Should my first step tread be level with the doorstep or it could be below it as shown in your video?
2. In the building code: "Riser height shall not deviate from one another by more than 3/8””. In your video bottom riser deviated by ¾”?
Why did you need the first plumb line?
YOUR THE BEST! THANK YOU!
I appreciate it 👍
Wonderful, thanks
Thanks stair builders in your vlog about how to cut them off at the house stairs . thank you a lot I' ve learn how to do it with your vlog.
You are the Man!!! Thank you very much for this lesson!!!
You're very welcome!
So 7 1/2 will work every time using this method?
This is a very thought out explanation. But for me I would stick with the traditional method of figuring out the rise and run and using a framing square. Which I believe you have a video about that. Thanks again your videos are helpful God Bless
Good point!
@@stairbuildingGood point? What point did he make?
To use the most common method I have in my books.@@mnight207
@@mnight207lolololol
Great video, much more complicated
Glad you liked it
You Sir, are a genius. Thank you.
You're welcome and thanks for the kind words.
Love you sir good job done
Thanks, so much. helpful to understand 🇵🇬
This is a great video!
Thank you!
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thank's great videos
Glad you like them!
I was taught, and I find it easier to understand, that riser measurements are made by knowing the FINISH to Finish distance. That takes any potential finish-floor thickness difference out of the equation.
Also, from the illustration, you are decreasing the effective stringer width (looks like maybe 3/8") by measuring from the BOTTOM of the stock and not the Top of the stock. No?
Is there any reason this method won't work for solid stringers? I want to build mine with unnotched stringers and metal 90 degree angle brackets to support the treads. My rise is 94" and run 90". I'm going with 10 treads. The stairs terminate into a wall, so I'm stuck with these metrics, but I plan on building a metal set in the future, so the last steps will deviate to the right so I can get that 11th tread. Thanks, and thanks for making these videos; I wouldn't have attempted this project without this help.
No, it should work for solid stringers without notches.
Hi, how are you? I have a step to build. The height is 8 feet the length is 12 feet but I need to cut the rice 7 1/2 and the step 11 inches I need to cut the string can you help me please
There's more information at our website or I have books that can help.
Hallelujah 👏👏👏👏👏 Thank you!!!!
You are so welcome
Thank you so much. I have a project that I will be using this.
Wonderful!
Can I use 2x10x10 for the stringer. ? I won't be cutting the stringer, I will make the steps diagram you show in the video put 2x4 blocks for the steps. Using 3 boards 12" on center for th 10" wide boards. 3 times I have done this
All I can say is that I've seen it before. I don't provide lumber sizes, because it is different in some areas.
There shouldn’t be any kind of code issue preventing you from doing it that way, using 2x10.
Why install risers first? Seems more sound to do the treads first, get more bit on the stringer, then fasten the riser. Good video either way
I router my stringers and slot the treads in. Glue and screw never goes anywhere. Twelve inch treads which is really 11 1/4 inch x 7 inch rise there abouts
Thank so much
Without a doubt, miscalculating the bottom stringer riser height is the most common mistake everyone makes. Any time I see a backyard deck set of stairs, my eye always immediately goes to that point, to see if they got it right.
doesnt the riser sit in top of the tread
@ 5:18 in your lesson which line should I cut at? The top or the bottom measure at 7 ' 3 1/2 inches????
Wow laiying it out without a framing square,thats awesome.old school style i guess.
I can see that you’re trying to simplify it, but IMO that would overwhelm anyone attempting it for their first time.. There’s always another way to skin a cat, but they should understand how to use a framing square to layout..
🖐
Another thanks for watching and the thumbs up.
So, after this video if you have a question... framing is not your thing. (Joke 😆)
Maybe picture framing:)
This has completely screwed me up. Old school way much easier
Sorrrrrrrrrrrry!!!
@@stairbuilding lol I got it now. It just had to “click”
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Nope
Will this same technique work for ramp joists?
It seems like it would.