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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Hello,
This video shows how to diagnose and replace your EGR system components. This guide will help if you have OBD 1 codes 326-337 and OBD 2 codes p0400-p0402 egr system faults. The truck shown in this video is a 1990 Ford Bronco with the 5.8L engine. A failing or clogged EGR system can cause poor MPG, failing emissions, and engine stalling.
Links:
EGR Valve: amzn.to/41AwUdX
EVP Sensor: amzn.to/3MOq0O4
EVR Solenoid: amzn.to/43F4UaW
Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/3ULG4C8
Tool Kit: amzn.to/3MHF6EU
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Truck Specs:
1990 Ford Bronco
Eddie Bauer Trim package
Black with Tan exterior
Saddle color interior
5.8L 351 Windsor engine
E4OD 4 Speed overdrive Transmission
Manual on the Fly 4x4
3.55 Dana 44 Front Axle w/Manual hubs
3.55 Ford 8.8 Read end
15" Alcoa Aluminum wheels
31" BFG All terrain tires
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Bronco Videos Playlist:
th-cam.com/users/pl....
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Thank you.
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This guy seems like CHRISFIXIT’s dad who works on older vehicles… bless your soul for making these videos
Good work, that engine bay is so clean, the gloves are to keep your hands from smudging the hard work.
That engine bay is tight!
@@rentcda Super clean!
I own a 1991 ford bronco that I’m restoring and I have to say, your videos have helped me diagnose and fix issues more than any other videos on TH-cam! Really appreciate your understanding of this truck! Keep up the great videos!
Great to hear!
I would have to agree I’ve owned my 89 since I was 16 (I’m 28 now) and well not until now I’ve had reliable videos on how to diagnose or fix or even attempt at home projects for my baby 🐎 keep ‘em coming
same here, exact year and everything. i find that f-150s correlate pretty well to our broncos for diagnosing problems
"Remove the EGR valve nut" Challenge accepted
excellent walkthrough. One note from my manual “With the engine at idle and at operating temperature, remove the ported vacuum hose and check for vacuum. No vacuum should be indicated. If it is, check the vacuum hose routing, verify the hose is connected to carburetor (ported) vacuum, not manifold vacuum. Make repairs as required and retest.”
Its worth it to make sure your EGR system works as intended as it does save MPGs
Why can't I live next door to a dude like you. I do great cookouts and can build a house from bottom to top but can't find a decent honest mechanic to save my life.
There really are many incompetent mechanics out there. And as the customer you end up paying for crap work. I do everything myself that I can do. I may be slow but I know the work will be first class and correct. Over the last 50 years I have gradually built up a collection of tools so I can do most of the work. Even if you have to spend $100 for a tool to do something you are still money ahead.
You are a great resource for these 5.8 nobody around here will even look at mine. Someday I would like to talk to you I have a couple 5.8 questions.
Let me know if you need any help diagnosing and repairing.
@@TheFixTech
How can I message you privately?
Thank you for sharing very informative video.
Thanks
Happiest thing to happen to me is you buying this bronco cause now I have an exact play by play book how to fix mine!!
Solid, these trucks are fun to work on and show off with on the weekends. I drive mine daily.
Quite refreshing to watch an excellent tutorial video, thank you!!
You're very welcome!
Good video I do a lot of my own maintenance on my 94 5.0 videos like this are super well put together and make it fun to learn new repairs 👍
Excellent video and simple instructions! Thank you for helping me understand how to diagnose properly without having to resort to the parts cannon!
I have an 89 town car that might be needing this procedure, thanks for keeping it simple!
Been working on my 1989 Bronco 302 5.0, and man! You're videos are literally the best on TH-cam! Thank you for taking the time to make them. Also, thank you for explaining it the way you do.
My Bronco was stalling at idle and this video lead me to the same issue in your video. Thank you again!
Thanks 👍
great job explaining everything sir
Thanks and welcome
Wow dude! What awesome videos you create. I have an 89 bronco 5.0 and a 96 f150 5 liter also. Love my trucks
Excellent video. Pictures are very clear, your description is clear and precise.
You make the best quality videos I've ever seen.
Thanks, much appreciated.
Awesome video sir! No nonsense and great communication.
Very helpful I didn't know what this was in my 91 Bronco the 2 hoses are broken but the vehicle runs fine so I wasn't really concerned
You are born for this! Thanks very much!
Thank you for making everything easy for us, love the content! 🤙🏼
My pleasure!
Great video! Please more videos on the 95 F-150 w/5.8 motor. I just bought one that needs some TLC.
You got it!
Wished I put this video on first!!!
Excellent instruction video!!!! Thanks so much!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thank you so much for a video like this
Keep these videos coming! I love it
Great video. The EGR valve (I call it the POS EGR valve) has been a problem area on my 92 F150. Since replacing it, when I'm running the AC it stalls when I stop at a light sometimes. I think the valve isn't closing quickly enough. I've learned to circumvent the issue by not stepping on the clutch (it's a 5 speed manual) until I'm almost at a stop.
Check for vacuum leaks and all vacuum check valves, there is a small plastic vacuum line that routes towards the passenger side above the blower motor (fresh air selector) that line usually kinks and breaks.
Replace the Idle Air Control. An easy 15 minute job.
Cured mine.
Just disable it
@warrenwinslow4266 unfortunately I live in a place with emissions testing.
Thank you for this
Any time
I liked your video and hope it helps me identify my bronco 11 location of the egr thanks
super informative. thanks.
Great videos, you make thank you
Awesome explanation
Thank you
Excellent video
How is your engine bay that clean. Love your videos. Most of this transfers over to my brick nose F350 as well. Very helpful.
Well done with the clean, concise videos.
Your vac hose looked fresh; have any recommended sources for replacement pre-bent & colored hoses?
I haven’t found any, you will either have to buy colored vac lines in bulk and use a heat source to bend. Or purchase used online or salvage yards.
Nice video
Thanks
Im old, but brand new to engine work. I bought a 1987 F150 and want to trick it up a bit. Your videos are great. For the EGR replacement, what was the name of the valve pump? Thanks.
You the Fckin man. Thank you for the resources.
Love the videos man! Keep them coming! 1990 Bronco 5.8 here… I have a question, what is the AA battery look alike thing to the right of the coil? Mine is there but wire is broken.
That is a condenser capacitor, you will need to replace it as it protects the engine/battery wiring from voltage spikes.
@thefixtech Regarding the EVR, can you tell me what the 2 pieces with seperate plugs are behind the EVR? I have yet to find info on them
One is the tab the other is the tad, they control vacuum to various items such as the air pump diverted valve
Excellent video!!!
I have a relatively new EGR valve made by standard, I smoked the intake and this one leaks a little, enough to throw a code 33!
Do you know where I can get a motorcraft EGR besides eBay and other ford part sellers online?
I’m concerned that a new/old oe valve might not last long because it set on a shelf for 40 years…
Thanking you in advance for your input!!!
when you start the engine in the video (1:48 timecode) there is a noticeable rattling in the engine...sounds like marbles rolling around in the intake as best I can
describe it. I have the same on mine. Have you attempted to track the source of that noise down? I *THINK* it's the smog pump...loose parts inside, worn bearing perhaps...
Yes, completely remove the belt. Then start the engine, if rattle is gone then it is from the belt drive. Could be the tensioner, power steering pump, air pump, ect.. for me it is the power steering pump. With the belt off you can manually spin the pulleys to locate, be sure the water pump is good.
@@TheFixTech my noise is definitely just under the alternator (which I just replaced with a reman motorcraft one)...I'm going to take the smog pump off and see I can grease/lube it for some more years of use.
great done vid
My 89 F-150 has the checklight come on after about 30 minutes. The issue was bad vac lines. Old and cracked.
How has that 5.0 stayed so clean??
I try to detail the engine every other wash. A least a couple times a year
Great video, thanks for the links,how are the standard parts holding up?
Standard is a good parts company as they do supply manufactures. I’ve had good experience with them and parts are holding up.
I'm fixing to change the EGR on my 5.0 in my 1994 Ford f150 it only has 135,000 mi on it but it is Rusty and ugly looking but I plan on replacing a lot of these parts cuz they're cheap and it's just good maintenance
With proper maintenance these trucks will last another 20 years
Great Video! At 30 years you could Skip the testing...all 3 parts should be replaced. Your vehicle is the cleanest inside and out. What a pretty penny she would fetch!
Thank you!
That’s exactly why I’m changing mine. Age. 29yrs great.
The problem with that method is sometimes the new parts you buy are worse than the 30 year old ones you took off the truck.
Where do you find all of the proper voltages, and ohm resistance reading for these parts?
Incredible video. Will this be the same for my 1996 F150? Inline 6, 4.9 - Everything under your hood looks like a dream.. so clean and organized. I wish I had your knowledge or a Mechanic who does things like you do.
Yes, it will be very similar
What symptoms did the truck have before and after?
Random stalling coming to a stop, egr valve was sticking open.
Intake vacuum on the top port.
Do you have a link for the supply vacuum lines? Or all the colored vacuum lines?
I have not been able to find any pre bent colored vacuum lines. You can purchase the hard lines separately and try to bend them yourself (with heat)
So why Motorcraft boxes if none of the parts used were genuine Motorcraft?
All part used are either motorcraft or genuine ford.
Egr part number: E8TE-9H473
Sensor: E7TZ-9G428
Solenoid: ZZM22035
I try to source and use as much of the original ford/motorcraft parts as possible on my tucks. I believe so far only the fuel pump and fuel tanks are Delphi and Spectra branded. It is very hard to source these obsolete parts so I try to link the best Ford authorized aftermarket parts from brands such as standard motor and Bosch, ect..
I have a 1994 Bronco 5.8 with 255k miles and the check engine light came on and it lost a lot of power. Almost as if the transmission was bad. Then after a few hundred yards, I arrived at work and could smell the fuel coming from the exhaust. I shut it down. I tried to restart later but turned over like it was flooded. Could failure of these components cause it to not start when cold? I have a OBD 1 tester but havent run the test yet. Because of the age I may just replace these parts anyway...any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks for a great video.
The egr system should be tested and replaced if needed but your symptoms sound like there may be another issue. Runs a diagnostic obd scan, be sure to get the truck to operating temps before pulling codes.
@@TheFixTech thanks for the reply. I couldn't get codes so I replaced the ECU. A couple of the capacitors inside were burned out. I am keeping the old board and going to check to see if the goop out of the capacitor ruined the board. If not I will replace the capacitors and keep it as a back up. On to the next test after I can get it up to warm up. I will prob just replace all of the other components as all of mine are original.
Thanks for the video, trying to figure out a 332 code on my 93 f150. 300 six 5 speed, I would imagine the tests are the same? cheers.
Yes, very similar. Start by checking vacuum supply to the egr solenoid.
1990 f250 ford xlt lariat 7.5 460 engine. I keep trying to find the evr solenoid at all auto prts stores and nuthins coming up. Is there another name for the evr solenoid?
Yes, most places will call this an egr solenoid. I have added link in the description part number VS52
My 91 f series doest have this setup there showing on this 90, does have an egr but no electrical connection mine is obd1. I'm confused as to why this setup appears to be an obd2 before they used obd in this model line.
You should have a evp sensor on the top of your egr valve with an electric connection. If not then either the egr valve is the wrong one for your truck or someone installed a newer engine as the 96-97 engines had egr with vacuum only.
can you do one on vacuum lines?
Why not ring a large bell and close yourself in the trunk like Scotty Kilmer? jk great vid.
1995 ford f150 5.0. The EGR air check valve on back of engine that screws down to the center between the 2 tubes rusted off at top where it hooks to rubber hose. I tried to remove and it snapped the crossover tube between the cylinder heads! Damnit. Noisy. Truck runs crazy. I guess I need to do it right and replace the crossover tube?? Or delete? I need to drive it in the meantime. What can I do? Plug something or what? So sick of the issues. Just hit 100k miles the other day. Cream puff truck my old uncle bought new.
I have a 1994 Ford Bronco 5.8 and because of its age I am having difficulty finding a good mechanic in my area. So because I have the time and the tools I figure I would track down my OBD1 code 558 error on my own. It appears to be the EGR system. Quick question, what should the voltage be to the EVR Solenoid? With ignition on but not running, mine is sending 9.84 volts. I am just wondering if it should be higher? If yes, what could be the cause of some voltage but not full voltage? The EGR is getting 4.9 volts so thats seems fine and the ohms on the new components are fine. I will be checking the vacuum readings tomorrow. I cant seem to fix this 558 error even after a reset of the PCM/ECU on my truck. I am thinking now that a vacuum leak may be the culprit. Any advice would be a huge help.
Hey great stuff man. What do you think about the proper egr delete kits that come with the component to give the computer the signal that the egr is still functioning? Also I noticed that your engine shakes a little at idle.I own a1989 f150 5.0 and it does the same thing.I have had some ppl say its normal and some say its has a slight miss fire?. Thanks.
The egr delete kits just do not work correctly for street cars/trucks. These engines were designed with egr in mind down the the ecm air/fuel calibrations. A little engine shake at idle is normal for an older aged engine, it otherwise runs good and passes emissions.
Hey I’m hoping you can possibly give me some guidance, my bronco out of nowhere is having this weird surging effect happening. Almost sound like it has a different cam installed. I thought possibly fuel related, so I changed fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel rail regulator. And it seems like it didn’t fix the issue. What other direction can it possibly be?
That sounds like the iac valve. Remove the iac valve and check for carbon build up, clean and or replace the valve. Also while in the process clean the throttle body, be sure to use throttle body cleaner not carb cleaner.
in the video at the end where you are testing the egr valve operation, would seeing that plunger in a stuck position be enough evidence that the egr valve needs replacing? I have an 87 ford f150 with the 5.0L and it is horrible on fuel. just finished doing the stock tests on the EGR valve, sensor and control valve....all seem to be functioning correctly. when the engine is at temp and I rev the engine I can see the plunger activating in the EGR valve....guess I just had not warmed it up enough.
If fuel consumption is still an issue, look into your fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors.
I have a set of reman bosch 4 hole ones ready to go on. Using your video as the guide. also have a new FPR which I'll put on at the same time.
@@TheFixTech
I own an 86 f150 with a 302 5.0. I installed a new egr tube, valve, and sensor, but now when I turn my truck on, it's stuck on full open throttle. What can I do to fix this issue?
Check the throttle cable at the throttle body to make sure it isn’t stuck open, remove the intake boot for inspection. Make sure the new egr valve is bolted flush to the manifold with new gasket installed
Where are you located? I have a 1990 Thunderbird Super Coupe. My Thunderbird starts and runs well until it reaches normal operating temperature, and then starts to idle rough and ping on 93 octane.
Nice car, it this only experienced at idle? Check the iac valve and tps sensor, as well as a functional egr system. Egr should be closed at idle, if stuck open this will cause issues.
I have replaced the IAC. I am wondering if I have a vacuum leak or faulty O2 sensors..
only experience at idle...
I have a 95 F150 302 with 130k on it. I replaced the vacuum lines after finding a few broke, and the rest were pretty brittle. Then i got a 332 and 334 CEL code. I've retraced my lines and can't find any discrepancies. I've replaced the EGR valve, valve position solenoid, and the vacuum solenoid. I cannot get rid of the CEL. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
On my 91 Ford f350 7.5 how to tell if the sensor on top of the EGR valve is working? When I unplugged it, nothing happens. No change in engine. And when I put a test light on the harness connector, the light barely lights up. Not bright. The sensor is new.
You should be receiving 5v to the sensor. You can test the ohms between the terminals. Remove the sensor and make sure the plunger moves freely, test the ohm again while pushing in on the plunger, ohms should change smoothly.
@@TheFixTechI think the connector has a low voltage problem.So what does that mean?
is it worth it to delete the EGR system? Would you save MPGs?
Keeping a healthy EGR system will improve MPGs, in my experience deleting will only give you problems. These are EFI computer controlled engines, it will take a lot to properly delete the EGR, even then do not expect an increase in MPGs
I need to replace all 3 solenoids that control the air lines. I know 2 of the 3 parts, EGRV Solenoid, IMRCV Solenoid. What is the 3rd called?
One is called TAB solenoid, the other is called TAD solenoid. They sit next to each other behind the EVR solenoid.
I replace the solonoid and egr valve and it’s not oopening I get the code 33 and 133
Have you checked the evp sensor? Also check the vacuum supply to the EVR and check all vacuum lines for cracks or kinks
@@TheFixTech it sucks up the egr but doesn’t go all the way down is tht normal and yes the
Relief on top the egr solenoid?
Ive got a '91 302 and i have an issue i cant seem to remedy:
When i give the truck a small amount of throttle, it will stay anywhere between 1500-2000 rpm, and refuse to drop, it only drops to idle if i goose the throttle a bit. This is with the IAC plugged in, it doesn't do this with it unplugged.
It makes shifting REALLY obnoxious (manual) and i just dont know whats going on.
No KOEO codes (exept 31 + 34, egr stuff) new tps/iac (both motorcraft)
Any help appreciated
Did you calibrate the tps? Should be between .9-1.0 volts. Also does yours have the iac plate adjuster? It was installed by ford on older models for anti sludge throttle bodies. Those also can be adjusted, I prefer to remove them altogether and carefully clean the throttle body for proper airflow.
@@TheFixTech my new TPS voltage is way too low, so I'm replacing it again, hoping that helps, thanks.
IAC doesn't seem to have any sort of adjustment on mine
What do set the multimeter on to do the testing.
Thanks
Dc voltage
Where did you buy your Ford EVP sensor and EVR solenoid? I like to buy Ford parts when I can and I'm struggling to find those.
I did all of this and all of my components are working but the computer is still giving me two codes
31 Egr valve control sensor fault
33 Egr valve not closing properly
Any ideas?
I have a 1988 F150, I ran through this test exactly as you did it but I’m not getting vacuum at the egr valve from the evr solenoid. I tested my vacuum line between it for any leaks and it’s fine. Am I looking at a bad evr solenoid?
Edit: I replaced to EVR with no luck. I am getting a EVAP code now.
Check vacuum supply to the EVR, it should receive manifold vacuum about 14-20 inches. The evap purge solenoid is located hanging next to the throttle body/next to the egr. Check hoses and verify it is plugged into the electrical connector.
ever fix this?? I'm having the exact same issue on my 1990 f150
@@TheFixTech
My vacuum checks out, it is within that range. All my vacuum lines hold vacuum and are fine. My vacuum solenoid doesn’t seem to be sending vacuum to my egr valve. I keep getting a code 31 which states my position sensor is faulty or my EVAP control system is below voltage. My position sensor tests perfect in every way. I have no idea where to begin looking at the EVAP control system voltage though, any help there?
Bought all 3 and still have issues on my 88 LTD. I swear this is my last ford. I still get code 33.
Have you cleared the code after installation of the new parts? Also test the egr valve operation after the engine has warmed, it should open with throttle approx 2000 rpm. If it does not open you may have a defective part or wiring/ecm issue. If it does open but still get code 33 then possible defective ecm. Check the ecm capacitors
@@TheFixTech I'll check the ecm. Any advice on how to do this?
Question on my 93 Bronco. Complete AC change, clutch fan and thermostat changed then it ran very sluggish immediately after. Thought it was the throttle position sensor and not much better but now feels like a hard shift to second. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Did it run fine before the complete ac change? Remove the drive belt and test the ac compressor pully, it should spin freely without ac on. When driving do you hear the fan blowing hard? If so the fan clutch is defective as it should release fan at higher rpm’s. Any check engine light?, if not you can still pull codes as computer does store codes. Be sure to pull codes after engine is fully warm, then shut down engine and pull codes. Also check the rear drum brakes, they can lock up in position and drag….
@@TheFixTech thank you so much for the information. The truck did run fine before any of the changes
Also check your transmission fluid level, and test your torque converter. If your transmission is an E4od then you should have a 2000rpm stall converter.
Hey man i have a 96 5.0. F150 the harmonic balancer is a 4 ping tone so its discontinued but can i use a 95 5.0 or what can i do to fix it
I have a 1990 f150 5.0 and my truck shuts off as im slowing down or i make a stop i been to 2 drifrent shops and they cant figure it out i know its long shot you see this but would you have a idea new iac new tps and new egr but not solenoid yet idk im stuck i have been
Have you verified proper operation of the egr valve? Idle the engine until warm, give the engine some throttle (approx 2-3k rpm) and you should physically see the egr valve move up/down with throttle. Also check for vacuum leaks, engine vacuum should be between 14-20 inches. Another cause of engine shutdown can be fuel/ecm related. Check fuel pressure and replace the fuel pump and ecm relays as they do go bad. My truck would shut off at a stop and the fuel pump relay was to blame. Replaced both pump and ecm relays.
Replace the Solonoid and egr and it won’t do anything but if I blow in the vaccum line and it hold it works I need help!!!
fingers 50 t060 runs gtrat buy 40-45 it sometimes skips ot misses a few times but not always. can this cause that also
Hoping to get my MPG back to 12.5 from 8.
A properly functioning egr system will definitely help with fuel economy. Also be sure to check into cleaning/replacing the fuel injectors. If you have any stored diagnostic codes be sure to attend to them as well.
@@TheFixTech
It's a '90 5.8 with 100,000. I've seen videos where they say use injectors from a particular mustang for increased mileage and performance.
My 94 F150 4x4 5.8, So my engine Is violently shaking at idle, I've already replaced motor mounts, Idle air control valve, PCV valve, Harmonic balancer, EGR valve, EVP sensor, Tune up and ignition coil pack. And my engine is still shaking at idle, but it doesn't shake while driving just at stop. Can you all give me some suggestions, thanks all..
Any other symptoms? Check engine light/diagnostic codes? Make sure timing is set correctly. Check for compression, uneven compression will shake the engine.
@TheFixTech No other symptoms, No codes or check engine light, I will check timing and compression next, Thank you.
@TheFixTech Do you do customer 3ds repairs? if so I will pay you
so I replaced my ear,evp and my evr. also a new computer and I still have a code 31 that I cannot get to go away for the life of me. help!!
I’m still getting that same code 31, not sure what to do yet. Keep me updated if you find anything!
@@dylancates6656 hey so this weekend i decided to throw a different egr on my truck and boom codes gone. Going on day 3 no codes. I put a used original ford one on
@@edwardpersico2001
Just a new egr valve? Or the position sensor as well?
@@dylancates6656 position sensor too. Not new just a old one that was a Ford original. The sensor i had appears to have been slightly different and didn’t work right.
what's with everyone with the rubber gloves must be
afraid of getting hands dirty
Why on earth would you fix it and not delete it.
To properly delete the egr system on these trucks you would need a tune on the ecm as it will try to modify the air/fuel ration, not something I am willing to get into at this point.
@TheFixTech what?. The EGR simply feeds air from the exhaust to the plenum. Deleting it does nothing to your tune.
I'll just delete it
Yep that's what I did it's not needed if u don't have inspections