Thanks for the tip. I checked the vacuum canister on my 95 F150 and found holes. Patched them up with a layer of fiberglass. Works great now and the engine codes are gone!
Something that works very well for fixing hard vacuum lines is using glue lined heat shrink tubing to connect the lines. Trim the lines square to one another, clean lines with brake cleaner, slip the tubing on the lines, and shrink tubing using a heat gun. Be sure to secure line with zip ties or tape on either side of the repair to the wiring harness or other convenient spot to keep the line from stressed.
I have a 1990 F150 with a 4.9. I want to change all vacuum lines and I have 2 cans. Is there a picture of an actual engine with the lines marked so I know exactly what to change?
Hey man your the only person in TH-cam that I've found that even sounds like they know what there talking about and has dealt with stuff like this I have a 96 f150 I've replaced everything in it but the ecm noone can figure it out idk what to do man I bet you're not close to me I live in Ohio? I really need my truck fixed I've put so much time and money into it I'm lost it's 4.9 l also best ever made ilthe stuff it would do it just had a mind of its own it's weird now it starts and dies
I'd be surprised if low EGR flow was causing your hesitation. The low EGR flow code was caused by a vacuum leak which caused hesitation, not the other way around
Thank you! I'm having the same problem with a Mustang and my mechanic couldn't figure out. He did something with the distributor and the shuddering stopped, but I still have a backfire/misfire sometimes and still feel a loss of power, but no violent shuddering like before. Also, the check engine light disappeared. Thank god I have a decend OBD I scanner now and found out it's code 332. I was driving down the highway and suddenly the car shuddered VERY violently and started to backfire/misfire sometimes, scared the shit out of me. I honestly thought the powertrain was gone for good.
@@tnaccountability7455 Turns out it was a fuel injector, swaped the ECM too and it all got better. Thanks for the advice about the sensor, I'll keep that in mind.
If you're getting vacuum to the EGR, that says the solenoid is o.k. If you're getting vacuum to the EGR at idle, it's the purge valve on cars with a purge valve.
There are holes in the plastic fender liner right under the coffee can vacuum reservoir........ when you drive in wet conditions water gets thrown up off the wheels thru these holes and it causes rust in the coffee can and it's mount bracket. I plugged these holes up and replaced the coffee can. Should be good for many more years.
I appreciate the excellent video you made, my truck run 100 times better. I would of never guessed that the resivior would have been the issue. Thanks so much!
I have a very similar issue with my 94 E150. And have been trying to diagnose for years! Good video, thanks. But, I'm unclear as to whether it was the vacuum canister or the line to the valve that was problem. Also, you mention checking the vacuum pressure on the line to the EGR valve and that it wasn't enough. How did you determine what that number should be? I can't find that spec anywhere. I know this is 4+ years later, but I'm desperate at this point! Thanks!!
yeah i got a p0401 code that ive been having difficulties with, ive tried testing the dpfe sensor voltage, but then i watched a different diagnosis video on testing the egr flow, when i tried to manual energize the egr solenoid, the engine didn't bog down or anything, so im going to try cleaning it and checking that vacuum canister. but the thing is if i clear the code it usually takes a week or 2 to come back so thats why i kinda have a feeling the lines are a little clogged.
You're doing the right thing all you can do is just troubleshoot until you narrow it down. Or if you got extra money to burn you can just start replacing Parts until it stops popping codes
@@Foxboss9 yeah I actually think I narrowed it down to just 2 vaccum leaks as soon as I plugged them, I can now engage my egr, definitely pays off to diagnose stuff rather than just throwing parts at it. I just hope the light stays off now
Get a Snap-on scanner and cartridges and adapters and manuals. Get the 120 volt adapter and Battery Pak to check codes results away from the vehicle. Also get the 12 volt cable to hook up some adapters to the battery. Get the latest cartridges. A Snap-on scanner can check EGR flow and fuel trim, oil pressure, TPS readings, spark advance, IAC valves, MAF sensor, RPM's. It can do KOEO and KOER tests. It can do movies on some vehicles. It can check EGR flow in and out of the EGR! E-Bay has them rather affordable!
Foxboss9 E-Bay has them kinda cheap. I bought all that rather inexpensive. It has helped me diagnose my car. I got a code today about the TPS. My scanner gave me that code awhile back but it went away. Now it came back. It's worth GOLD! Some cars it can check lots of stuff like EGR flow and oxygen sensors while the engine is running. You can see if it's slow. It shows EGR temp. flowing in and out of the EGR which shows if the EGR isn't opening. You can adjust the RPM's at the thumbwheel to test charging voltage and do the set-up for certain tests. It tells you to run the engine at 2000 RPM's for 2 minutes. You can move the thumbwheel to do that. It'll check the tach for accuracy. It'll check oil pressure, fuel pressure, movies, and all kinds of stuff! It saves from having to go to a mechanic. If your oxygen sensor is bad, you may want to go to a muffler shop since it may be stuck in there from rust. They can use a torch to heat it up. I spent about $70.00 for 1 scanner alone! It was w/o the case. Another I bought came with the case and 7 cartridges for $130.00! It also included adapters! I bought 7 adapters for a bulk price. I just bought a 2000 cartridge to test a neighbors '99 Ford Explorer with a 4.0. It says it needed a MAF sensor. I dialed in the VIN using the battery Pak and it came back 4.6 and 4.2! I did finally got 4.0 from the set-up off the vehicle after doing a custom-set up. I got the OBDII adapter and a K12 personality key. Maybe the engine was changed. They are extremely useful! Older cartridges are cheaper. I just bought a Jeep adapter for $8.00! One before that was $15.00, then I saw the $8.00 one. Most adapters cost from 8.00- 20.00 depending on the seller. Get the Ford-1 adapter for EEC-IV and the 12 volt cable which hooks up to the battery. There are ABS cartridges. Also transmission cartridges. Set it for fast codes to erase old memory codes. It also does movies and snap-shot views to catch a part acting up while driving.
Marty Stevens The EEC IV system is pretty antiquated, Are you sure all that information can be gathered by a scanner? I know OBDII can do all those things but, I don't remember any of that information being available on an older system like mine, even by the Ford garage... But, then again I haven't taken a vehicle to the Ford dealership since 1991..
Thanks for the info Its had both new pumps on it just not at same time since old ones bench tested at same pressure as new I didn't keep em was supposed to do a trade on the truck once I figured it out and fixed it all the sudden his preacher had $3500 laying around to spend and I got the shaft but thanks man good videos
I have the 95 F150 with the 4.9 5 speed, I get that little shutter and random hesitation here and there! I’ve replaced every part of the EGR system including the solenoids and sensors! Still got the same issue! Idk if it’s a fuel or timing problem!
Foxboss9 it has brand new Coil, plugs, wires, distributor, fuel filter, pump/sending unit! “Doesn’t mean the pumps good tho” I’m gonna borrow a fuel pressure tester!
I have problems with mine. check engine light is on. when I disconnect the IAC valve sensor. truck idles normal. if I connect it. truck idles high. I replaced the IAC valve, and the EGR valve. and still nothing. I need to get it star smog by the end of the month. any suggestions??
Awesome post thank you, hey have you had problems with yur dual tank switch I would love to here how you chased and solve that issue. Very well explained post.
Could you please share where the 2 hoses connected to the vacuum canister go? I have one connected to my vacuum tree but the other one I'm not sure it's connected to the right place. I'd REALLY appreciate it!
@@Foxboss9 Unfortunately the decal is not there :( I think I have it figured out now (it goes to the TAB and TAD). You wouldn't believe how hard it's been to find that information. Thank you for replying!
I have a 1994 ford f150 5.0. I'm getting code 334 code 122 and code 998 I've replayed distributor, throttle position sensor, and Starter before I got code 33r and code 998 and ideas would help on why I get this now
i recently rebuilt the 302 in my 92 f150 can anyone tell me where i can find pictures or diargams to all of my vacuum lines ive found pictures on google but they are no help
Oh one more thing on the big Folgers Coffe vac storage canister just to let u know if u do any Custom work that requires Vac canister I did it to my big block bronco to make heat blend door close and open more crisp and quick without wastin what heat i manage to get in huge cabin area but on to the point on most any and should be all Jeep Grand Cherokee's Have the perfect fix for this problem they have Vac Storage Compartment. Cleverly hid in the bottom of the Battery Tray and works great even on old muscle car Battery hold down tray its as big as the Battery but only few inches thick of air space but is ABS plastic with Plastic nipple and return inlet with check valve on newer or older ones from Junkyard
I have 89 f150 4.9 did a tune up plugs wires an cap with rotor and replaced throttle body gasket an IAC gasket an cleaned everything up truck still misses an now backfires but all vac lines look good any ideas
I purchased a 1994 F-150 5.8 engine with headers. Mine’s missing the pipe that goes under the egr valve...where does yours connect now that it has headers?? Appreciate the reply...
all vacuum lines have constant vacuum applied. Except the EGR lines and the lines that come from the Thermactor/regulators..... Your hood should have a decal that shows all the vacuum line routing
On my 1992 ford 5.0 has a stutter at 35 to 85 unless I hard accelerate to the speed that is desired then cruise at that speed, it also has a rough/unstable idle, hesitstion, and pinging, My vacuum reservoir is missing and I was wondering if that could cause it
Thanks come to find out my distributor was bad Well I put one in it and now my fuel pump won't come back on any idea what would make it do that. I can trun the distributor and hear stuff Clickin
1990 f150 5.0. Would the egr affect my ability to start the truck? I've experienced some of the things you've described in addition to difficulty starting and holding a consistent idle. Once I get it started I have to hold the gas at a higher rpm for a bit until it warms up, then it idles very low and bobs up and down.
Everett Butler not likely, the EGR doesn't start affecting engine functions until its warm... It could be stuck open though, that would affect start up... I would look at the IAC valve if you have to push the accelerator pedal to aid in starting..
Thanks for the quick reply! I took the IAC off the other day and cleaned it, something I've done a few times in the past. I've replaced it once as well. I'm just gonna have to pull a few codes on it
I have 96 F- superduty 460 7.5 I am having similar issues but only when cold an only when I put into gear to accelerate, idles good, anyone have any tips to fix other than this?
Lots of component testing... And vacuum line checks... I got this book back in 1992 and pretty much memorized it from cover to cover. Of course back then I was modifying my then three year-old 89 Mustang notchback and not having a lot of money I had to really learn how that thing ticked. I suggest that you buy the same book as it has a really explicit component troubleshooting section that will tell you how to check pretty much everything underneath the hood with a basic multimeter and hand vacuum tester. It goes into the entire theory of how the computer algorithm works during cold startup and all the components that it looks at and get the information from and when it quits referring to those components after warm up. It's easy to read and easy to follow. I am not a reader and I could comprehend it just fine. I still have it to this day as I've always had the old eec computer systems on my Fords up until I sold my 96 F250 HD last year at this time and bought a brand new 2019 Super Duty. Anyways here's the link to the book. amzn.to/2LmwliU
I need some help I got an 1988 f150 Ford 302 I have put a lot of new parts on it and I still don't no what to do but my problem is when it's cold it run good but when it get warm it starts jumping and Hoppin like it has a big miss or like it ant getting gas the RPM needle in the truck jumps up-and-down but 0101 and above one I don't stay in a certain spot any idea what this could be
Keith Moore make sure your speed sensor (if equipped) is cleaned and wiring to it is good... the fact that it runs good whenever it is cold tells me that it's a electrical component that is not operating correctly like the EGR that is only in use once the vehicle reaches warm operating temperature.
Keith Moore I’m having exact issues with my 1994 F-150 5.8 engine...just wondering what was causing these issues on your vehicle?? Any advice would be helpful...thanks
I have the exact same issue, identical description, I have been looking for a while now to find a solution. I have changed the egr valve and position sensor, throttle position sensor and replace all the vacuum lines. I am at a loss. 95 f150 and it runs perfect except the issue you describe once I accelerate out of it it runs perfect. do you have any other suggestions?
Terry Murphy Not really.. You will need to find out if you're getting good vacuum at your EGR position sensor. and you have to make sure that your actuated valves that are on the driver side intake are both working correctly.. You may need to clean up the EGR ports in the intake..
motor and tranny swap 13000 miles ago cleaned out the intake. ran great until about the 10000 mile mark, been working on it ever since. kinda at a loss. I'll keep you posted when I find the fix.
Thanks alot, you are the only one I think has told me what the hell is wrong with my truck, I have throwed money at this and still have a problem. I relly appreciate it....Thanks alot.....
If you have a EGR insufficient flow code coming up First thing to do is look for vacuum leak and replace or repair.. If there is no leaks then check the vacuum at the EGR.. If there is vacuum there you need an EGR valve .
Look for a vacuum leak with a can of carb cleaner. Spray lightly in the direction of vacuum lines without getting it near the air intake. If the idle changes look were the carb cleaner may be getting sucked in at.
90 f250 5.0, slight shudder at idle, then I can hear a loud air flow through the breather which idles the engine up for a few minutes the it idles back down with the same studded, please any suggestions
Throaty,Air Bog sound usually means fuel isnt being delivered at a rate that is equal to the air that is being taken in through the throttle body.. Check fuel filter and fuel pressure.
When I makes the throaty sound, the engine idles up, it has a slight shake at idle, like its runs great then stumbles and picks itself back up, I've installed the following... New AIC, new TPS, new distributor, new coil, new EGR solenoid, new VSS, new cap , rotor and plugs, new o2 sensor, new timing chain and gears, runs better than before, but still has a slight shake at idle and almost kills at times
When I bought my 95 f150 4.9L, the egr was deleted before I got the truck, and only when the truck gets warm, it miss fires at idle, and when i drive at lower rpm it misfires alot, and if I cruise and give it some throttle, it misfires, if I'm at a stop and I give it full throttle, it just hesitates until higher rpm, any suggestions? I have done the basic tune up, spark plugs, new plug wires, new distributor, new coil, and the timing is dead on the spot, and it still does this.
Could this problem cause an intermittent stall if bad enough? Currently experiencing slight shuddering and stalling if I stop or slow down even a little bit too quickly
Have already tried that, I'm assuming it's a vacuum leak of some sort, because it runs pretty rough with the mass air flow plugged in, so I have to run it without the MAF, thanx for all your help!
Exactly. You should know by now that chewing gum while talking to someone, especially in a video is distracting and unprofessional. Maybe that's just me. Sorry to be so blunt, but I thought it should be addressed. The rest of the video (without gum chewing scenes) is informative and well-done.
Oh man, you need to lighten up. Who said I'm trying to be direct and professional. What on any level makes you think that any of my videos are professional.? LOL I got a kick out of this one. You have a good day😁🤣
![[UNCUT]"ทักษิณ" โชว์ฤทธิ์-ครอบครอง "อุ๊งอิ๊ง" ประเทศไทยมีนายกฯ 1แถม1 I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 23 ส.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Uyl4y59R-Sk/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the tip. I checked the vacuum canister on my 95 F150 and found holes. Patched them up with a layer of fiberglass. Works great now and the engine codes are gone!
Man your description hit the nail on the head. Hell yeah thank you. Those vacuum lines crumble over time
Very helpful, just replaced the coffee can, most of the vac lines and WOW, what a difference.. great video, sir. New subscriber here.
Something that works very well for fixing hard vacuum lines is using glue lined heat shrink tubing to connect the lines. Trim the lines square to one another, clean lines with brake cleaner, slip the tubing on the lines, and shrink tubing using a heat gun. Be sure to secure line with zip ties or tape on either side of the repair to the wiring harness or other convenient spot to keep the line from stressed.
Had the same problem . I have a 94 with a 4.9 . Just fixed a vacuum leak and cleaned the throttle body and it runs better than it ever has .
I have a 1990 F150 with a 4.9. I want to change all vacuum lines and I have 2 cans. Is there a picture of an actual engine with the lines marked so I know exactly what to change?
Fixed my cylinder 1&2 misfire by replacing that with tight vacuum lines... thanks for the advice!
Thanks your video helped me find the rusted coffee can on my 95 f 150 I made a replacement with 4"pvc and fixed it
Awesome..!
Video worthy there!
Glad this post came to me today it is some great stuff coming and going for the f150.
Hey man your the only person in TH-cam that I've found that even sounds like they know what there talking about and has dealt with stuff like this I have a 96 f150 I've replaced everything in it but the ecm noone can figure it out idk what to do man I bet you're not close to me I live in Ohio? I really need my truck fixed I've put so much time and money into it I'm lost it's 4.9 l also best ever made ilthe stuff it would do it just had a mind of its own it's weird now it starts and dies
I'd be surprised if low EGR flow was causing your hesitation. The low EGR flow code was caused by a vacuum leak which caused hesitation, not the other way around
Dude thanks a lot for the info gonna get my 95 f510 running like new thanks man 👍💪
Thank you! I'm having the same problem with a Mustang and my mechanic couldn't figure out. He did something with the distributor and the shuddering stopped, but I still have a backfire/misfire sometimes and still feel a loss of power, but no violent shuddering like before. Also, the check engine light disappeared.
Thank god I have a decend OBD I scanner now and found out it's code 332. I was driving down the highway and suddenly the car shuddered VERY violently and started to backfire/misfire sometimes, scared the shit out of me. I honestly thought the powertrain was gone for good.
Control module. Lil rectangle sensor. I've replaced my fair share of them. Typical
@@tnaccountability7455 Turns out it was a fuel injector, swaped the ECM too and it all got better. Thanks for the advice about the sensor, I'll keep that in mind.
If you're getting vacuum to the EGR, that says the solenoid is o.k. If you're getting vacuum to the EGR at idle, it's the purge valve on cars with a purge valve.
Thanks dude.
There are holes in the plastic fender liner right under the coffee can vacuum reservoir........ when you drive in wet conditions water gets thrown up off the wheels thru these holes and it causes rust in the coffee can and it's mount bracket. I plugged these holes up and replaced the coffee can. Should be good for many more years.
I appreciate the excellent video you made, my truck run 100 times better. I would of never guessed that the resivior would have been the issue. Thanks so much!
Thomas Knight 😀
I have a very similar issue with my 94 E150. And have been trying to diagnose for years! Good video, thanks. But, I'm unclear as to whether it was the vacuum canister or the line to the valve that was problem. Also, you mention checking the vacuum pressure on the line to the EGR valve and that it wasn't enough. How did you determine what that number should be? I can't find that spec anywhere. I know this is 4+ years later, but I'm desperate at this point! Thanks!!
I had that same green vac line broken on my truck. Noticed it when i was taking off the intake manifold.
Me too! In the same exact spot!
So I have a 1996 f150 5.0
I have no codes. But my truck studders what seems like while under a load.
Hello sir, thank you for you helpful video. By your green line, there is a red line. Mine is broken. Do you know where it goes to?
Sorry, I cannot remember. Just look at your hood there should be a vacuum line routing decal
Very informative, thanks for posting!
Good down to earth trouble tips. Thx
😀👍
yeah i got a p0401 code that ive been having difficulties with, ive tried testing the dpfe sensor voltage, but then i watched a different diagnosis video on testing the egr flow, when i tried to manual energize the egr solenoid, the engine didn't bog down or anything, so im going to try cleaning it and checking that vacuum canister. but the thing is if i clear the code it usually takes a week or 2 to come back so thats why i kinda have a feeling the lines are a little clogged.
You're doing the right thing all you can do is just troubleshoot until you narrow it down. Or if you got extra money to burn you can just start replacing Parts until it stops popping codes
@@Foxboss9 yeah I actually think I narrowed it down to just 2 vaccum leaks as soon as I plugged them, I can now engage my egr, definitely pays off to diagnose stuff rather than just throwing parts at it. I just hope the light stays off now
Get a Snap-on scanner and cartridges and adapters and manuals. Get the 120 volt adapter and Battery Pak to check codes results away from the vehicle. Also get the 12 volt cable to hook up some adapters to the battery. Get the latest cartridges. A Snap-on scanner can check EGR flow and fuel trim, oil pressure, TPS readings, spark advance, IAC valves, MAF sensor, RPM's. It can do KOEO and KOER tests. It can do movies on some vehicles. It can check EGR flow in and out of the EGR! E-Bay has them rather affordable!
Marty Stevens sounds like that cost more than I paid for the truck...
Foxboss9 E-Bay has them kinda cheap. I bought all that rather inexpensive. It has helped me diagnose my car. I got a code today about the TPS. My scanner gave me that code awhile back but it went away. Now it came back. It's worth GOLD! Some cars it can check lots of stuff like EGR flow and oxygen sensors while the engine is running. You can see if it's slow. It shows EGR temp. flowing in and out of the EGR which shows if the EGR isn't opening. You can adjust the RPM's at the thumbwheel to test charging voltage and do the set-up for certain tests. It tells you to run the engine at 2000 RPM's for 2 minutes. You can move the thumbwheel to do that. It'll check the tach for accuracy. It'll check oil pressure, fuel pressure, movies, and all kinds of stuff! It saves from having to go to a mechanic. If your oxygen sensor is bad, you may want to go to a muffler shop since it may be stuck in there from rust. They can use a torch to heat it up. I spent about $70.00 for 1 scanner alone! It was w/o the case. Another I bought came with the case and 7 cartridges for $130.00! It also included adapters! I bought 7 adapters for a bulk price. I just bought a 2000 cartridge to test a neighbors '99 Ford Explorer with a 4.0. It says it needed a MAF sensor. I dialed in the VIN using the battery Pak and it came back 4.6 and 4.2! I did finally got 4.0 from the set-up off the vehicle after doing a custom-set up. I got the OBDII adapter and a K12 personality key. Maybe the engine was changed. They are extremely useful! Older cartridges are cheaper. I just bought a Jeep adapter for $8.00! One before that was $15.00, then I saw the $8.00 one. Most adapters cost from 8.00- 20.00 depending on the seller. Get the Ford-1 adapter for EEC-IV and the 12 volt cable which hooks up to the battery. There are ABS cartridges. Also transmission cartridges. Set it for fast codes to erase old memory codes. It also does movies and snap-shot views to catch a part acting up while driving.
Marty Stevens The EEC IV system is pretty antiquated, Are you sure all that information can be gathered by a scanner? I know OBDII can do all those things but, I don't remember any of that information being available on an older system like mine, even by the Ford garage... But, then again I haven't taken a vehicle to the Ford dealership since 1991..
Marty Stevens What Foxboss9 asks, please!
Marla Gubanyi What?
I have 0 vacuum going to my egr solenoid and I have already replaced egr solenoid, vacuum canister. What could it be ?
Thanks for the info Its had both new pumps on it just not at same time since old ones bench tested at same pressure as new I didn't keep em was supposed to do a trade on the truck once I figured it out and fixed it all the sudden his preacher had $3500 laying around to spend and I got the shaft but thanks man good videos
I have the 95 F150 with the 4.9 5 speed, I get that little shutter and random hesitation here and there! I’ve replaced every part of the EGR system including the solenoids and sensors! Still got the same issue! Idk if it’s a fuel or timing problem!
Clean injectors, replace fuel filter, maybe fuel pump and pressure regulator test.. cap rotor plugs and wires obviously
Foxboss9 it has brand new Coil, plugs, wires, distributor, fuel filter, pump/sending unit! “Doesn’t mean the pumps good tho” I’m gonna borrow a fuel pressure tester!
Sounds dumb but took me awhile to fix mine,coolant temp sensor! 18$ fixed
I have problems with mine. check engine light is on. when I disconnect the IAC valve sensor. truck idles normal. if I connect it. truck idles high. I replaced the IAC valve, and the EGR valve. and still nothing. I need to get it star smog by the end of the month. any suggestions??
Awesome post thank you, hey have you had problems with yur dual tank switch I would love to here how you chased and solve that issue. Very well explained post.
Thanks.... No problems with switch
Hey the EVP that controls the EGR when does it open 95 f150 5.0 ruff idle
I have been on and off here all day trying to find out but I can not find any thing
Could you please share where the 2 hoses connected to the vacuum canister go? I have one connected to my vacuum tree but the other one I'm not sure it's connected to the right place. I'd REALLY appreciate it!
Sorry, I don't have access to the vacuum routing decal. Look on your hood there should be a vacuum routing decal that shows you where to connect to
@@Foxboss9 Unfortunately the decal is not there :( I think I have it figured out now (it goes to the TAB and TAD). You wouldn't believe how hard it's been to find that information. Thank you for replying!
Supper helpful. He sounded like he regretted that mustang.
Alexander Sumrall 👍😁
I have a 1994 ford f150 5.0. I'm getting code 334 code 122 and code 998 I've replayed distributor, throttle position sensor, and Starter before I got code 33r and code 998 and ideas would help on why I get this now
Best to buy a good manual and troubleshoot the codes... Here is the Bible for your truck here amzn.to/2DUh5I4
i recently rebuilt the 302 in my 92 f150 can anyone tell me where i can find pictures or diargams to all of my vacuum lines ive found pictures on google but they are no help
On the Hood..
+Foxboss9 thanks ill check that out
Oh one more thing on the big Folgers Coffe vac storage canister just to let u know if u do any Custom work that requires Vac canister I did it to my big block bronco to make heat blend door close and open more crisp and quick without wastin what heat i manage to get in huge cabin area but on to the point on most any and should be all Jeep Grand Cherokee's Have the perfect fix for this problem they have Vac Storage Compartment. Cleverly hid in the bottom of the Battery Tray and works great even on old muscle car Battery hold down tray its as big as the Battery but only few inches thick of air space but is ABS plastic with Plastic nipple and return inlet with check valve on newer or older ones from Junkyard
I have 89 f150 4.9 did a tune up plugs wires an cap with rotor and replaced throttle body gasket an IAC gasket an cleaned everything up truck still misses an now backfires but all vac lines look good any ideas
Make sure you get the firing order correct. Check your timing also if your firing order is accurate
@@Foxboss9 thanks I'm gonna check timing this weekend and fuel pressure. To see where I'm at
I purchased a 1994 F-150 5.8 engine with headers. Mine’s missing the pipe that goes under the egr valve...where does yours connect now that it has headers?? Appreciate the reply...
Check out my header videos
I was thinking about putting headers on my 94 f150 is it worth installing that upgrade? Are there any setback going that route.
Where can i find the tubing i want to fully replace all the vaccume lines there mostly brittle slightest pressure and they brake
I dont know if Advance Auto Parts carry the hard line just hose. Maybe the Ford dealer? not sure. never had to buy any before
Is vacuum going through the green line you showed constantly? Or only at certain times?
all vacuum lines have constant vacuum applied. Except the EGR lines and the lines that come from the Thermactor/regulators..... Your hood should have a decal that shows all the vacuum line routing
On my 1992 ford 5.0 has a stutter at 35 to 85 unless I hard accelerate to the speed that is desired then cruise at that speed, it also has a rough/unstable idle, hesitstion, and pinging, My vacuum reservoir is missing and I was wondering if that could cause it
harley kane yes.. Definitely need a reservoir..
Thanks come to find out my distributor was bad Well I put one in it and now my fuel pump won't come back on any idea what would make it do that. I can trun the distributor and hear stuff Clickin
Keith Moore Sorry, never had any fuel issues with the wife's civic.. Can Anyone else here help out?
Hi are you still around?...can I message you a few ?
1990 f150 5.0. Would the egr affect my ability to start the truck? I've experienced some of the things you've described in addition to difficulty starting and holding a consistent idle. Once I get it started I have to hold the gas at a higher rpm for a bit until it warms up, then it idles very low and bobs up and down.
Everett Butler not likely, the EGR doesn't start affecting engine functions until its warm... It could be stuck open though, that would affect start up... I would look at the IAC valve if you have to push the accelerator pedal to aid in starting..
Thanks for the quick reply! I took the IAC off the other day and cleaned it, something I've done a few times in the past. I've replaced it once as well. I'm just gonna have to pull a few codes on it
Everett Butler that's a good place to begin.. Good luck..
Could have leaking fuel injectors. Does the exhaust smell really rich at start-up?
Where can I get the connectors to the vacuum port? Thanks for great vids
Those connectors are Factory Ford, best place to get them wrecking yard
do you know what the name of the sensor on top of the egr is called
amzn.to/2lhQSVX
thanks for the quick responce
spent about 28 bucks half of what a new one would cost
+George Laputka good deal.. I know I got one at the junkyard for 10 bucks .. it was the newer style poly tank off a Bronco in this case..
I have 96 F- superduty 460 7.5 I am having similar issues but only when cold an only when I put into gear to accelerate, idles good, anyone have any tips to fix other than this?
Lots of component testing... And vacuum line checks... I got this book back in 1992 and pretty much memorized it from cover to cover. Of course back then I was modifying my then three year-old 89 Mustang notchback and not having a lot of money I had to really learn how that thing ticked. I suggest that you buy the same book as it has a really explicit component troubleshooting section that will tell you how to check pretty much everything underneath the hood with a basic multimeter and hand vacuum tester. It goes into the entire theory of how the computer algorithm works during cold startup and all the components that it looks at and get the information from and when it quits referring to those components after warm up. It's easy to read and easy to follow. I am not a reader and I could comprehend it just fine. I still have it to this day as I've always had the old eec computer systems on my Fords up until I sold my 96 F250 HD last year at this time and bought a brand new 2019 Super Duty. Anyways here's the link to the book. amzn.to/2LmwliU
@@Foxboss9 thank you for reply and the videos!, going through it now, think its time for that MSD that you put on yours, an check those lines!
Awesome video
Rsa Wrks 👍😁
I need some help I got an 1988 f150 Ford 302 I have put a lot of new parts on it and I still don't no what to do but my problem is when it's cold it run good but when it get warm it starts jumping and Hoppin like it has a big miss or like it ant getting gas the RPM needle in the truck jumps up-and-down but 0101 and above one I don't stay in a certain spot any idea what this could be
Keith Moore make sure your speed sensor (if equipped) is cleaned and wiring to it is good... the fact that it runs good whenever it is cold tells me that it's a electrical component that is not operating correctly like the EGR that is only in use once the vehicle reaches warm operating temperature.
Keith Moore I’m having exact issues with my 1994 F-150 5.8 engine...just wondering what was causing these issues on your vehicle?? Any advice would be helpful...thanks
I have the exact same issue, identical description, I have been looking for a while now to find a solution. I have changed the egr valve and position sensor, throttle position sensor and replace all the vacuum lines. I am at a loss. 95 f150 and it runs perfect except the issue you describe once I accelerate out of it it runs perfect. do you have any other suggestions?
Terry Murphy Not really.. You will need to find out if you're getting good vacuum at your EGR position sensor. and you have to make sure that your actuated valves that are on the driver side intake are both working correctly.. You may need to clean up the EGR ports in the intake..
motor and tranny swap 13000 miles ago cleaned out the intake. ran great until about the 10000 mile mark, been working on it ever since. kinda at a loss. I'll keep you posted when I find the fix.
Foxboss9 thank you for the reply, I did learn a lot from your video
Thanks alot, you are the only one I think has told me what the hell is wrong with my truck, I have throwed money at this and still have a problem. I relly appreciate it....Thanks alot.....
There could be other causes but it's easy to check this and even easier to fix. Good luck.
I made a new canister using 4" PVC from Home depot.I made some videos and will put them up in the next few days
Could you send me a link to the vides you made for the canister thank you
Josh
how do you fix this on a 1988 4.9 i6
If you have a EGR insufficient flow code coming up First thing to do is look for vacuum leak and replace or repair.. If there is no leaks then check the vacuum at the EGR.. If there is vacuum there you need an EGR valve .
+Foxboss9 ok and thank you
this sounds exactly like my problem its kinda slugish and bucks
Look for a vacuum leak with a can of carb cleaner. Spray lightly in the direction of vacuum lines without getting it near the air intake. If the idle changes look were the carb cleaner may be getting sucked in at.
got ya thanks
This guy has that Ford mechanic look.
90 f250 5.0, slight shudder at idle, then I can hear a loud air flow through the breather which idles the engine up for a few minutes the it idles back down with the same studded, please any suggestions
Throaty,Air Bog sound usually means fuel isnt being delivered at a rate that is equal to the air that is being taken in through the throttle body.. Check fuel filter and fuel pressure.
When I makes the throaty sound, the engine idles up, it has a slight shake at idle, like its runs great then stumbles and picks itself back up, I've installed the following... New AIC, new TPS, new distributor, new coil, new EGR solenoid, new VSS, new cap , rotor and plugs, new o2 sensor, new timing chain and gears, runs better than before, but still has a slight shake at idle and almost kills at times
I'll be adding new fuel filter today, and thank you very much ✌✌✌
I just epoxy the old can, mintz, thanks
Cool! 😁
When I bought my 95 f150 4.9L, the egr was deleted before I got the truck, and only when the truck gets warm, it miss fires at idle, and when i drive at lower rpm it misfires alot, and if I cruise and give it some throttle, it misfires, if I'm at a stop and I give it full throttle, it just hesitates until higher rpm, any suggestions?
I have done the basic tune up, spark plugs, new plug wires, new distributor, new coil, and the timing is dead on the spot, and it still does this.
Put the EGR back on....
@@Foxboss9 I also need to replace my exhaust manifold, the pipe that connects to it was crimped, I really don't know what these guys were thinking
Thank you so much, it worked...
Where did you get the coffee can replacement?
MIKE'S GARAGE A coffee can or pineapple can!
Chock full of Nuts.
Could this problem cause an intermittent stall if bad enough? Currently experiencing slight shuddering and stalling if I stop or slow down even a little bit too quickly
Dallas Suitt possible but that sounds more like a IAC valve to me..
Have already tried that, I'm assuming it's a vacuum leak of some sort, because it runs pretty rough with the mass air flow plugged in, so I have to run it without the MAF, thanx for all your help!
Junk that's good stuff! Lol
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Exactly. You should know by now that chewing gum while talking to someone, especially in a video is distracting and unprofessional. Maybe that's just me. Sorry to be so blunt, but I thought it should be addressed. The rest of the video (without gum chewing scenes) is informative and well-done.
Oh man, you need to lighten up. Who said I'm trying to be direct and professional. What on any level makes you think that any of my videos are professional.? LOL I got a kick out of this one. You have a good day😁🤣