Ford ECM Repair EEC IV | Fix Multiple Issues | 1980-1996 Ford Bronco F150 | Bronco Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Hello,
This video shows how to replace the failed capacitors in your 1980's 1990's Ford car or truck. These capacitors fail causing multiple issues on your electronic fuel injected machine. Replacing these capacitors will save you money as replacement/refurb ECM's can be very expensive.
Links:
Capacitors: amzn.to/3N3RJGX
Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3O2WF05
amzn.to/3zHEada
Tool Kit: amzn.to/3xA6ueW
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Truck Specs:
1990 Ford Bronco
Eddie Bauer Trim package
Black with Tan exterior
Saddle color interior
5.8L 351 Windsor engine
E4OD 4 Speed overdrive Transmission
Manual on the Fly 4x4
3.55 Dana 44 Front Axle w/Manual hubs
3.55 Ford 8.8 Read end
15" Alcoa Aluminum wheels
31" BFG All terrain tires
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Bronco Videos Playlist:
th-cam.com/users/pl....
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Thank you.
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Bro, I am literally crying. I have been trying to diagnose my 1992 f150 5.8 for almost two years. Have replaced basically every sensor, wires, hoses, etc. I've read hundreds of forums trying to fix this rough idle, intermittent dying, zero power, absolute BS running rig. You're my f**king hero, man. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Same here on a 92 150 starcraft conversion. Talk about a freaking nightmare. Replaced everything like that. Finally wised up pulled ecm and opened it up. All the capacitors were leaking on chipboard. I'm researching now how to get the right one.
Update put new ecm in and she runs like a top, Minus a small coolant somewhere but it completely took away the transmission shuddering and missing also.
89 ranger 2.9 sooo much time probing reading mm , cursing myself cuz this aint my 1st rodeo & finnally realized injector ground pulse intermittent, random, ruled out tfi
I feel this comment in an emotional way 😢😊
Same here dude! Daaaaamn!
That's the cleanest 1990 bronco I've ever seen.
Thanks
Right super clean
There is this kind of satisfaction to watching someone that knows what they are doing. Also working on clean components is fun to watch. Thank you for the video
Your welcome
You can save good money doing this repair. If you are new to soldering, I do recommend practicing beforehand
hey dude, ever come across a bouncing serpentine belt tensioner? mine was doing that so I replaced it with a new part and it still does it... recently I replaced my alternator with a 130A 3g alternator which has a slightly smaller pulley, I'm wondering if it is as simple as needing a slightly smaller belt.
God bless you for putting more Bronco content out there. Luckily I haven’t had to touch my computer but glad to have this if I do.
Flagship 1 charges $550 for a rebuilt (or what they call refurbished) ECM for a 93 Ford 7.5L which my Winnebago Brave has in it’s Ford F53 Chassis. It’s very slightly different but your fix is the same. Was running horribly, no idle and shut down intermittently. Engine is now jet smooth again including the shifts. Cost me $7.75 with 8 spare caps of each (same as yours) and a bit of time. Your video is superb.
Thank you.
When it comes to replacing electrolytic caps, you can use higher voltage caps.
As the original caps are 16 volts, and the car works at 13.8 volts, you are running close to the working voltage of the caps. I would use 25 to 35 volt replacements, as the new caps are actually smaller now with the higher voltage rating.
The capacity of the caps, 47 microfarad is more important to keep as close as possible, and 47 UF is more common than 50 UF caps were in the past, but if it was a 50 UF, you can use a 47 UF as a good substitute.
The one thing that takes a toll on caps is age! They have a liquid inside that can dry out, leak and corrode the board, or the unit may short and cause tracks to burn! Which is why there is a home industry repairing old electronics by replacing the caps known to fail due to age.
The temperature rating of the caps can also be increased without worrying about failure. I use 105 degree C caps as often as I can, there are higher ratings, but the cost is also a factor, so don't go overboard in increasing the temperature ratings too high!
One thing about soldering, be sure you use an iron that is grounded and does not cause static burnout of components. If you don't pay attention to this one fact, you can burn out semiconductors and cause more damage to the equipment.
We appreciate the quality of your videos with the clear instructions. Thank you for posting!
Hi … just wanted to say very well done. My truck (1995 F-150 XLT) started randomly stalling on the road. Mechanic did fuel pressure, changed fuel filter, added sea foam
Seemed to be running better but still rough at in the beginning and today driving a couple miles, it stalled again. Started reading forums and owners with the same problem mentioned the EEC. Your video really explains things and last, you have one clean looking engine.
Dude. I have been watching your videos for some time now--and others. You have the best (in my opinion), the most forward, knowledgable and comprehensive way of explaining and demonstrating how "fixing" our vehicles is not scary or really complicated. Thank you for your efforts in creating this content. Liked and subscribed!!
I appreciate that!
Great video. Spot on instructions. Thanks for taking the time to show the process start to finish.
Bro! I’ve been chasing some problems on my 91 f250 for ever. It hasn’t run in a few months but I just did new injectors and a new dizzy. Still not running right. I came across your video and said what the hell. Pulled my ecu and sure as shit, 2 of the caps were leaking and one leg was not making contact on 2 of the caps.I didn’t bother with doing it myself and just ordered a new one. To say the least I think your video saved my ass. Thank you for making the vid. New ecu comes in this wed and I’m pretty sure she will run great. If your ever in so oregon I owe you lunch😂
And?
Ppl tell me my 94 bronco is clean but this one is like brand new. Thats a clean bronco. Im actually having the idle issues and i have replaced the usually parts like the one you name and more. Great break down video
Just ordered the capacitors to do this job on my 96 F350. Thank you for also showing how to remove the computer from the inside of the truck.
well done ! To the point, easy to see, and well demonstrates process; with great tips on removing solder
Now that’s a clean ass Bronco right there! Doesn’t look molested either! That’s a keeper!
Thanks for the motivation and guide. Just did an ECM replacement with a remanufactured part on my 1993 Ford F-250. Similar but different on removal/installation. FYI for those about to do the same, the ECM is pulled out through the firewall from the engine bay, not the cab like in the video. No reason to take off any trim in the inside to figure that out. However, the ECM unit is too long to pull out without running into the wheel well so I removed the back half of the driver side wheel well screws to give it some flex to get it out. Thanks Ford engineers for that easter egg. Anyways, computer is in and the electrical gremlins appear to be gone. Good luck everyone on your projects!
Great information.
87 - 91 is removed from inside cab.
I would suggest going with electrolytic capacitors rated at either 25v.or 35 volts instead of the original 6.3v and 16 v. It's just added durability and the physical size is the same. Be sure to disconnect battery first before attempting this.
Your videos are excellent. Great photography and explantion. Keep up the good work.
Thank you
so glad I found you’re channel, just picked up a 90 bronco xlt🤝🤝
These are solid trucks, you’ll have fun restoring and using. I drive mine daily.
+1, had two shops in a row fail to diagnose and after replacing every single sensor myself I finally have it narrowed down to a main ECM problem
Thanks for the the well-informed video. That may be what the problem is with my grandpa's 91 Crown Victoria!
BTW, uF is the abbreviation or symbol for microfarad, a unit of capacitance.
I've saved this video for day that soon will approach with this possible issue. Thank you.
God bless you! That is one nice Bronco! Thanks for the knowledge, going to do mine while I'm down for maintenance. Your an excellent instructor, simple and well explained, especially the detailed capacitor notes! Now I can order before tearing into everything.
I gotta check mine. My f150 had lots of leaked capacitors but it didn't affect anything that I could tell wile running and driving. My bronco is the the mystery problem
Thanks for the video. I just did my 95 Bronco XLT E40D-4WD 5.8L; I got the Nichicon FG Capacitors and a Weller 60W Kit from Amazon, I got it in and had it running twice with no issues. It feels like it's running smoother as well.
Very nice!
Do you have a amazon link to which ones uou went with?
@@Untamed_bronco...What he used is in the video description with a Amazon link...
thanks for the vid. gonna check my 95' broncos capacitors!
What did you find out about your 95 Bronco capacitors ?
I think I am going to have to attempt this project on my 95.
It runs great but sometimes I shut it off to run into the store and come out and it just won't start again for a half hour or so. Thought I had it fixed by changing out the ignition control modular and it seemed to run great for about a month and then all of a sudden it did the exact same thing. Then after a while of trying to start it everything went completely dead even the dome light.
Came back the next day and disconnected the battery to reset the computer and it seemed to start right up like it never had a problem.
Yet another excellent how-to from The Fix. Thank you sir!
Use Solder Wick to suck up / extract the old solder ; Use a good quality Weller ( WE1010NA ) soldering iron ; that means no HARBOR FREIGHT JUNK ; Also its preferred that you use an anti static mat designed for electronics repair that is grounded ; other wise you could zap the electronics with a static discharge.
That sounds like good information.
Where would be the best place to get that soldering iron and any other good soldering supplies that you spoke of?
As well as the "Panasonic new production" capacitors?
It seems like nowadays you could buy new tools and parts and they're junk brand new and there's no way to know for sure.
Nice video, I got a super clean 1993 Glaval Universal E150 conversion van that’s having some awkward issues that apparently has cost a family friend hundreds of dollars to no avail and was given to me to solve it and since it’s mine if I do my motivation is high. They replaced the sensors form transmission to the cluster and nothing ever fixed the bouncing speedometer and rough shifts and I’m certain now I have a capacitor issue after this video. Great work and damn nice bronco
Be sure to check all speed sensors, your truck should have three, one on each front wheel (abs) and one on top of the rear diff. Does the overdrive light flash?
@@TheFixTech all three replaced and The od doesn’t flash but the air bag does, after replacing all three sensors it worked for about a day and then it was back to the bouncing speedometer and The no shifting into OD it down shifts and throws itself into limp mode. Speedometer works and shifts are smooth until 45, shifts are good until 55 but after 45mph is achieved it begins to bounce between 45-55 and every mph closer to 55 I get the wilder and more eradicating the bounce.
I have a 1994 bronco xlt and I’m having similar symptoms you were. This video might’ve saved my behind, I shall report back after I try this, thank you!
Did it work?
Dude this was super helpful! I have a 96 bronco now and used to have a 90 that I loved as well!
Nice bro hopefully this fixes my idle issue tried everything but nothing works pretty sure it’s this thank you 🤟🏽
Zow! Rub some of that smart off on me. Thanks super tech.
Well, sir, this video is just pure gold! Thank you very much!
You're very welcome!
Awesome video, super easy to follow and understand.
Damn bro, you have the best Bronco content there is out on the internet!! Had a question, how did you set the idle voltage on the throttle?? Do you have a video out there how you did it?
Man you got an absolutely mint Bronco.
Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for watching!
man that thing is so clean you can eat off it , Brand new like. most of these are worn out and in rough shape , especially the pickup trucks considering most people use them as workhorses.
Nice. I appreciate all the info
Awesome video I am going to check this out on my truck.
Hey there, noticed that brown line on your thumbnail. Did you injure it lately? If not, you'll want to have a dermatologist look at it. My wife is in medicine and noticed it and it's my duty to tell you! Hope all is well.
Thank you so much for the info...!!!!this video was superr useful!!!greetings from chihuhua mexico
Nice, thanks for the info man!
Your link for the capacitors shows parts "no longer available". Would you please link again with capacitors you recommend? Thank you so much! Also, could I send you my ECM for repair?
You deserve more subs.
You're the man! Thanks for sharing.
Your welcome
I bet Murphys Law messes with you in the way that every time you solder, no matter which way you sit or face that the smoke goes straight to your face. Oh and I love the wire tip for getting the old solder off.
All the time
Thanks for the great video, my ECU needs new capacitors but I am having a difficult time melting the old solder and removing the old capacitors' leads. I am afraid to keep the soldering iron for too long and damage the circuit board. You make it look so easy, what is the temperature of you soldering iron? Thanks
You can try to cut the capacitors off, then use a flux core solder and melt a little on top of the old solder to help soften the old solder. Use tweezers to pull out the leads. If you do not have flux core solder, use flux paste. I usually set my temp to 600 degrees, but it can vary from machine to machine.
Solder sucker works well for this, basically like a turkey baster but spring loaded so it pulls the liquified solder out instantly
Thanks very much!
thanks for the info I have the same bronco
Nice video, but at the 5:30 mark, you can usually get better results with a solder sucker ("desoldering pump") than a wick. I've re-capped a bunch of old jukebox tube amps, and wouldn't do it without one.
I do have one of those, bought from radio shack years back.
Thank you so much man i'v been struggling for 5 years to fix my truck it's been having transmission issues with shifting I found a shop last year that told me there is no signal going to ECM from Gauge Cluster all the trans shops around here have told me I need my transmission rebuilt when it has nothing to do with inside transmission it's been electrical I pulled out my ECM all 3 capacitors are leaking and I think it's like a fuse thing it's rusted bad
Depending on year of your truck, 92-96 will have a PSOM speedometer, these do go bad and will either need a replacement or rebuild usually around 80-100 dollars. If your overdrive light is flashing then this is likely the culprit. Try the capacitors first as they do need replacement, then look into the PSOM
@TheFixTech I put in a used one and my transmission was shifting fine for a day then started acting bad the next day
Excellent DIY Video..I think you did a great job making this video.
However; Don't know what year your Bronco was, but it didn't work for my 1994 Bronco XLT 5.8.
After removing the drivers side kick panel I could clearly see it didn't match your video and there was no-way the EEC-IV was coming out from the inside.
Mine had too removed from the engine compartment of the drivers side fire wall.
So for anyone doing this, double check to see if your EEC-IV is removed from the inside side of the fire wall or engine compartment side of the fire wall.
Nice looking Vehicle.. Don't know what year your Bronco is, but looking at the vehicle photo I'd guess it was a 1993 or earlier.
My god that truck is Beautiful
Thank you for great information.
Your welcome.
Great video. Not sure if I can do the repair but what the heck if I cant I will spend the 400$ for a new ECM.
Chris Fix got a new channel?
You should try to take better care of your bronco man. Lol absolutely beautiful truck!
Great info also. Very cool. I have a 1990 that is a dedicated off road rig with the same issues. I will be excited to give this a shot
Well worth the effort, I noticed smoother performance all around.
Thanks for the great tutorial on how to remove and replace the ECM (TCM for my 1993 7.3 IDI diesel). I've installed two OEM TPS's and when setting the WOT voltage when opening the throttle toward WOT at 4 volts I get a momentary spike to 6 volts throwing the voltage way above the required 4.5 volts WOT setting recommended by Ford. This of course throws an error code causing the truck to go into limp mode. I had the exact same error when both new TPS's were installed. I figure if the issue is not the TPS the problem has to be in the TCM. Because when I'm setting the TPS voltages the truck is only in a key on engine off state.
Mine is a bad cold start issue. And weird misses. Even when fully warmed it wants to stall if I rev it up a bit. Replaced every sensor and part except O2 sensor and ecm. Confirmed perfect fuel pressure.
Check the distributor pick up coil and ignition module
Thank you my 89 has that ruff idel and shifting problem i already replaced everything rebuild engine transmission and transfer case now its charging the capacitors
Excellent job
Thank you very much!
Hello, I have a 1995 f150 with 5.0 v8. I saw another video where the guy took out 2 bolts in the firewall above and below the pcm connector and pulled it out that way. Can mine also be removed from behind the kick panel like you did on this Bronco? Your way looks much easier. Thanks for the great video!
The 92-96 generations have bracing inside the kick panel that making the ecm from the inside difficult. For those models it is easier to remove from the engine bay.
See my new post above for my experience.
Thank you!
You bet!
Great video. I assume this applies to 5.0 as well? I have a 1990. I have seen other videos showing loosening of the wheel well cover as opossed to the kick plate.
Your way looks easier. Thanks, Steve
Yes this will work with the 5.0, the 1992 and up (obs style) require removal through the fender well, I have done it without complete removal of the fender lining, just pop out a couple screws and the lining will bend out of the way.
Great video thanks!
You bet!
Good video as always. I have problems with the parking brake, do you have any video of that?
Not yet, depending on the year the parking brake has an adjustment under the driver seat, under the vehicle. I have a video on the rear drum brakes showing how the parking brake cable routes inside the drums.
I'm having a no start on my 95 f250 5.8w abs light and check engine light are both on from one day to the next it stop turning on
Can anyone give me some pointers
Beautiful bronco you really maintain it, and it shows. I have an 87 f150 xlt lariat, do you know if the ecm pulls out from the inside as well. I'm just wondering if those capacitors has something to do with my idle up and down, up and down when I first start it. Then, it levels out to a decent idle. Right now, the truck won't start, I have spark, I think it's fuel related dropped off at shop. Hopefully, it's nothing much
Yes the 1987 ECM pulls out from the inside as shown. Check your IAC valve and TPS sensor for the idle issues first.
@TheFixTech thank you so much for getting back to me. Right now, the truck is in the shop for the no start issue. But I want to check that ECM Capacitors, once I get it back unless that's the problem that he discovers.
Can you do a video on how you keep your engine bay so clean?
Buddy so after doing that repair, was it idling better than it was before?
Yes, much smoother overall operation as well.
Interesting... I left a comment about the possibility of changing the caps to 47uF 25v rating, and how that might eliminate the need for any repeat replacement, and how the statement that "these are designed to only last about 15 years" that's made in this video at the 4:30 mark is false. There is no specific date of failure named in electrolytic capacitor design, and their lifespan is largely dictated by what they do in a design, and if the voltage rating is high enough for the stated purpose of the cap in the design...
I also said I would consult an electrical engineer relative of mine for confirmation of this theory.
I checked with my relative, and my suspicions were confirmed that an ECM running at 12-14v that had electrolytics rated for 16v in it would indeed have it's electrolytics be prone to early failure. He also shared with me that doubling the value of the circuits operating voltage to get the recommended cap voltage rating was standard practice, to avoid failure like this video is showing... He worked for 40+ years designing high sensitivity medical testing equipment, and had a very elaborate explanation of why the 25v cap rating upgrade would be a good idea, and that also, a low ESR rating would be a good upgrade to the selection process for the new caps as well.
I came back a few hours later, and that comment is now deleted... I'm wondering why. Guess we'll see what happens to this one!
Very wel!! Now, let me ask a dumb or stupid question. By the way, I have a 1991 F150. This is the system before the OBD2, meaning no electronic devices available to read codes or produce any type of diagnostics. (I think this is the system where diagnostics are done based on how many times the check engine light flashes and there's your code). Now that I see the ECM inside. Here's the please don't shoot me question. 😅 Could this ECM be converted to OBD2? i.e., pulling the right wires to the OBD2 connector. Then again, the software might not be friendly. But, if possible, then able to reflash it with a new program. I've worked with the Oshkosh and built a complete harness swap on a 2012 SRT-8 for a 1970 Charger, and here's where I see you have the on hands experience.
The ecm itself cannot be converted to obd 2. You will need the obd 2 ecm (from the 1996 model) as well as the complete engine harness and sensors, along with the transmission/controller. It can be done but unless you have a donor vehicle, it will be expensive. The obd on these trucks are quite good, you can still buy and obd 1 scanner but the on board flashing light works well enough. Just be sure to bring the engine to operating temperature before attempting to pull codes.
@TheFixTech Thanks for getting back to me. I'm in agreement, and it was my fear or suspicion.
Is there something else I could plug into that connector? Like and aftermarket engine management system that won't break.down like this?
I am not aware of any aftermarket ecm for these models. You can purchase a refurbished ecm from Rock Auto, be sure to match yours exactly as there were several different models. There will be numbers on the ecm itself that should match one of the Rock Auto listings.
when reinstalling with the gasket on, it helps to pull some of it threw the other side. in case anyone was wanting to know lol..
Did you add that high beam floor button? My '72 Mercury Montego had one, I want to put one in my '95 F150.
Outstanding video
How do you know if you're getting new quality capacitors ?
Where do you recommend getting those Panasonics from ?
A good reputable seller will provide new capacitors. I choose the Panasonics from a local eBay seller.
I have a 1990 F-150, 300 6 cylinder, with 5 speed trans. I have replaced the Alternator, the Starter, Tension pulley and belt, and new Battery. When I start it, it shows charge on the dash. It idles about 800rpm. When I drive it some distance where it warms up, a lot of times at idles, the red engine light comes on and the charge needle goes to zero. It still runs, and I can get the charge showing at about 1200 rpm. However, I stopped at Oriley's, for an electrical check up. While the needles was on Zero, the red engine light was on, the Alternator showed output of 14.3 volts on the Battery.
They do not know why it reads like that on the dash while the alternator is putting out 14.3 volts charge to the battery. After it sets a while and everything cools down, it starts fine and no redlight, and the needle shows charge.
So, what could it be doing ?
My 1995 F250 7.5L has been stalling out at red lights or when slowing down. It runs perfectly when going down the highway and has no issues when cold, but once it warms up and I go to make a stop, it will 5 times out of 10 stall out and then fire right back up again. I just got a scan tool so I can work on testing it later today, but I'll add this to the list of things I should check.
Have you ever seen a bad ECU cause stalling like that? I'm also wondering about the IAC, MAP, and ICM, but I'm fairly new to these older trucks (I'm used to ODBII and having a scan tool to pull codes when something goes wrong).
Check your egr system, verify your egr valve is not stuck open as these are common symptoms of failing egr. Also replace both fuel pump and ecm relays.
i just pulled and opened eec in my 95 bronco and it doesn't have any of those capacitors?
I have 1995 F350 5.8L Powerstroke Diesel (Manual). It cranks very strong, no start. I suspect the EC. Is mine located in the same location as the one in your video?
Yes it should be located in the same place. If it is a Diesel engine check the crank position sensor, I’ve had that issue in the past and that was the problem.
thx for responding to my van problem. is it possible for the fuel pump to fail after warmup and then be good when it cools off? Also this van sits for months at a time in the Seattle area, I'm wondering if moisture is a problem. It trashed my distributor as it was corroded on the inside. I'm also curious about changing the fuel filter., and possibly the water temp sensor.
It’s very common for the fuel pump to be erratic. It is easy to diagnose, when the truck does not start, check for fuel at the engine rails. If no fuel then try to prime the pump manually, apply 12v to the fuel pump circuit (you can either at the fuel pump pigtail or at in engine bay) if no pump sound then it is a bad fuel pump. I do also recommend a new fuel filter and temp sensor as these trucks are old and require maintenance.
@@TheFixTech thankyou
I've also seen someone add a ground from the frame to the fuel pump holder.
So I'm sure it was a mistake but at the end of your video you pointed to capacitors while calling them resistors 😅
Hey buddy I’m getting ready on doing this and I’m a little confused on the resistors I’ve gotten vs the one I have on the ECM
The resistor numbers need to match. The positive/negative terminals also need to be soldered onto the correct side
How did you get the gauges to be so fresh looking?
I’ve taken them apart and cleaned.
I have a 96 ford F150 with 5.0L that sputters when you accelerate and hold a constant speed would this be my problem to.
That would be an obd 2 pcm and may not have these capacitors. For your situation check your ignition module, it should be black in color, not the gray one. Also check your tps sensor and speed sensor. Any check engine/abs lights? If so run a diagnostic check with an obd 2 scanner.
I got a 91 f150 4.9 4x4 with a high idle at 1.5 rpm while in park . Also dies whenever you put in any gear. Thoughts?
Check the throttle body and cable, clean if necessary. Also check the iac valve and tps sensor. Run diagnostic codes (be sure the engine is warm before pulling codes)
This may be my issue with a rough idle at temperature on my 1990 Thunderbird Super Coupe
Awesome video, just subscribed! I have 1985 F-150 with the 5.0L. Truck starts and idles fine, but when I put in gear it stalls after driving about 10ft. Changed IAC, MAP sensor, coolant temp sensor, new battery, new ignition coil, and checked timing. Any thoughts on what my issue could be?
Check the MLPS sensor on the drivers side of the transmission. This tells the ecm what gear the truck is in. If the computer senses the truck is still in park it will not be able to deliver proper fuel trim parameters.
My 1992 f150 is doing about the same thing it cuts in and out and I assume loses spark. Seems to do it randomly But sometimes when I switch to drive. Sometimes I can nurse it home other times it dies completely. The only way I can get it going is unplugging the distributor pick up and plugging it back in I hear a click like it resets something, but it's hard to restart because it floods out with gas. I don't know if it's normal for these old trucks to flood that easy just from cranking with no spark but anyways I changed a bunch of parts and finally took the computer out and the capacitors were leaking and 1 wasn't even attached, so hopefully that's the problem but I really don't know. It also looks like it has an old mouse nest under the fuse box so I need to check for chewed wires. Hopefully the new computer fixes it 🤞 otherwise I will probably just sell the truck. I might check out that transmission thing too.
great video and how-to. I have an 1989 Ford Bronco 58l with C6 4x4, do these 3 capacitors affect the fuel pump function? My Bronco won't turn my fuel pumps on- only if I remove the fuel pump relay and jumper wire the hot to the pump will it run them and then I can drive it.
The capacitors do not directly controls the fuel pump relay circuit. There are two relays that control the fuel pump, the eec relay and the fuel pump relay, they are located next to each other. If the eec replay is bad it will not power the fuel pump relay.
@@TheFixTech thanks- well there is power available to the fuel pump relay plug but the signaling side of the fuel pump relay plug doesn’t seem to be working so i figured it was a problem with the ecu
I had an issue recently similar to yours and replacing both relays solved the problem. If you are still having issues check the wiring, and open the ecm cover, if the capacitors are leaking replace them as they will only cause further problems.
@@TheFixTech excellent thank you
i’m one of leaths friend sup 👽
I have a 1988 e250 van. Do you know where my ecm may be located?
Any recommendations on specific brands for flux?
Can a bad ecm cause a no start? Also, my obd1 reader won't pair with my ecm ever since the no start happened.
Check all your fuses, inside cab and engine bay. Do you see the check engine light with key on engine off? If not then the ecm is bad.
l see the check engine light with "key on, engine off". Does that mean my computer is O.K? l cannot connect to the computer with a obd-1 scanner, or, by using the ole paperclip method. With either method, there is no responce from the computer. l have a 1995 f150, 4.9 in line 6 cly. and have changed almost all the sensors including distributor cap & rotor & plugs. l am really concerned about the computer not communicating with me.
Great video. Where is the best place to buy the capacitors?
I’ve found good quality on Amazon and local sellers on eBay. You can ask them if the capacitors are recently manufactured.
Amazon has the resisters look for the name brand for quality
You bet, i have a question i wonder my ecm has only one capaciter 1989 bronco ii i have the same symptoms with shifting first gear terrible acceleration and chopping mufler sounds, it idles a bit low and if you do a quick and sudden step on gas it kinda wants to stall at first then stutter and rev up! Any thoughts? Thank you also shakes after 3rd gear untill i adjust my step more or less on gas. Nothing is wrong with the exhaust system btw. Thank you
Sounds like a fuel issue, check/replace the ecm and fuel pump relays. Then check the TPS sensor and IAC sensors for proper function. Scan the computer for codes, even if there isn’t a check engine light there may still be codes in the memory. Be sure to get engine to normal operating temp before checking codes. Also check engine timing.
@The Fix i checked most of those changed tps and fuel filter air charge sensor, feul preassure regulator ignition module, spark plugs, map sensor and pcv valve in addition to cleaning things but due to the way it ckokes when and alost stalls when you quickly depress the gas not slowly and the faster you do that first press the bigger the impact if you press multiple times it catches up so now i think its a vacuum problem but i cant find any decent instructions, do you agree? Also, it would be of great value if you tackled the vaccum system in your future videos it will be the best on this subject period.
where did you get your air intake hoses?
Hi where do you buy your parts at, am looking for a 986t04 driver for my fuel pump.