Gary, I was unfamiliar with this unit until this video. When you were talking about the range selector, needing to be in low to remove valve body it reminded me of the 41TE and I didn’t know that these two units were related. Seems like a FWD transmission just adapted to RWD/4wd use. They have TINY clutches and parts compared to even a Chrysler 904 or 42RE. Glad you were able to save this unit!
I don't know which is worse: This, or, the 2007 4L65E on another channel, where a slow cooler leak destroyed the pump & gear train (purple gears). I'm surprised the pump & the UD & OD clutches looked so good, for the trash in it.
Hey Gary, I'm in the middle of my 6HP28X rebuild, and I ran into something weird with my ZF 1068.298.051overhaul kit. The kit has 2 identical seals for the C clutch piston, but the seals I removed were 2 different sizes. Cobra Transmission sells a C clutch seal kit with 2 seals that look identical, too. However, all the ZF documentation says there are two different seals, 75.040 and 75.050. Is this just a packaging error from ZF? If I stretch the seal, the piston still holds air, but just looking at them it seems obvious you'd need two different sizes. I can't find any way to purchase separate C clutch seals that have 2 different sizes.
@@GaryFerraro Yes, this is the ZF OEM overhaul kit marked for the 6HP26 and 6HP28. When I mean they are similar in size, I mean that they are identical. The seals that I removed are obviously different lengths, but the ones in the kit are identical, and the outer C piston seal requires a lot of stretching with the new seal, but no stretching with the old seal.
@@dariojohnavetisov1794 Correct, it has to be a packing error, i have never seen this with these seals. Was an OE kit correct, blue box the kit came in?
Seeking the answer for 2 years already and nobody seems to can diagnose my trans. I have Sienna 2008 AWD. 130K miles on it. Two things happening with my transmission, that kind of doesn't disturb much, but it doesn't allow me to sleep well. When car just rolls down the street accelerating, on 1st gear with no gas pedal pressed (important, no gas pedal. Car need to accelerate by itself from a little to nothing hill), sometimes shifting to 2nd hear sounds like a little bump. I don't hear it, but I can feel it. Another 2nd gear "problem". When car is decelerating, it doesn't shift to 2nd gear and ALWAYS doing 3->1. SO accelerating is 1,2,3,4,5 and decelerating is 5,4,3,1. Toyota is saying that nothing wrong and computer showing all good, but I know there is a problem. Is it a problem, or I'm overthinking?
@@GaryFerraro Glad to hear from you. It's 95% ok. Just in case of deceleration, it revs up the engine too much when I'm doing left/right turn. The case is. I'm driving home central street, 4th gear, here is my right turn, Im pressing break to slow down, it shifts to 3rd, then more slowdown, already done my turn, pressing gas pedal, and car does 3-1 and then instantly to 2, engine gets 2500rpm for a moment (because car had to either stay on 3rd or shift to 2nd. But not to 1st. As it's too much speed for the 1st). So, 3-1-2 instead of just 3-2. I was tired of that "engine RPM bump" and started to investigate. And car NEVER on any deceleration shift 3-2. Always 3-1-2. Speed doesn't matter, turn or just linear stop. Like it doesn't know how to do it.
@@GaryFerraro If to think that is only solenoids problem this 1->2 bump and 3->1 skip. SL1 and SL2 should be ideally both replaced. Especially SL1 under my logical suspicion. It should disengage doing 1->2 which I can sometimes hear the bump, and should disengage when 3 -> 2. Which is not happening. And maybe pressure SLT.
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Good afternoon Gary and thank you for the good video`s .
Good Afternoon, Thanks for watching as always.
Love your videos I was watching your 42RE videos. Gave me confidence to do my transmission on my 1998 Durango 5.2L 4x4.
Good video, enjoyed you sharing.
Thanks Gary
Such an excellent video, thank you!
Gary, I was unfamiliar with this unit until this video. When you were talking about the range selector, needing to be in low to remove valve body it reminded me of the 41TE and I didn’t know that these two units were related. Seems like a FWD transmission just adapted to RWD/4wd use. They have TINY clutches and parts compared to even a Chrysler 904 or 42RE. Glad you were able to save this unit!
yes, all in the same family
Hi, Gary good morning
Would a 4l60E bad/leaking forward drum cause no lockup or component slipping P0894? ....2006 Envoy. Thanks.
No, Thats could be worn bushings, valvebody problem, solenoid or converter itself
@@GaryFerraro Thanks.
I don't know which is worse: This, or, the 2007 4L65E on another channel, where a slow cooler leak destroyed the pump & gear train (purple gears).
I'm surprised the pump & the UD & OD clutches looked so good, for the trash in it.
Me to, rebuild went well, back in the car and worked real nice
I am shocked someone is rebuilding a 2005 Liberty
we do plenty of these lol
Hey Gary, I'm in the middle of my 6HP28X rebuild, and I ran into something weird with my ZF 1068.298.051overhaul kit. The kit has 2 identical seals for the C clutch piston, but the seals I removed were 2 different sizes. Cobra Transmission sells a C clutch seal kit with 2 seals that look identical, too. However, all the ZF documentation says there are two different seals, 75.040 and 75.050. Is this just a packaging error from ZF? If I stretch the seal, the piston still holds air, but just looking at them it seems obvious you'd need two different sizes. I can't find any way to purchase separate C clutch seals that have 2 different sizes.
The seals are very close in size, I have not come across that, is this an OEM kit?
@@GaryFerraro Yes, this is the ZF OEM overhaul kit marked for the 6HP26 and 6HP28. When I mean they are similar in size, I mean that they are identical. The seals that I removed are obviously different lengths, but the ones in the kit are identical, and the outer C piston seal requires a lot of stretching with the new seal, but no stretching with the old seal.
Had to call ZF directly but they think it was a packaging error. The seals should be different.
@@dariojohnavetisov1794 Correct, it has to be a packing error, i have never seen this with these seals. Was an OE kit correct, blue box the kit came in?
@@GaryFerraroyup. Blue ZF overhaul kit. It's okay though, ZF was very kind and opened up another box and shipped me the seal for free.
Seeking the answer for 2 years already and nobody seems to can diagnose my trans. I have Sienna 2008 AWD. 130K miles on it.
Two things happening with my transmission, that kind of doesn't disturb much, but it doesn't allow me to sleep well.
When car just rolls down the street accelerating, on 1st gear with no gas pedal pressed (important, no gas pedal. Car need to accelerate by itself from a little to nothing hill), sometimes shifting to 2nd hear sounds like a little bump. I don't hear it, but I can feel it.
Another 2nd gear "problem". When car is decelerating, it doesn't shift to 2nd gear and ALWAYS doing 3->1. SO accelerating is 1,2,3,4,5 and decelerating is 5,4,3,1. Toyota is saying that nothing wrong and computer showing all good, but I know there is a problem.
Is it a problem, or I'm overthinking?
so if you get into the car and just drive it, its ok?
@@GaryFerraro Glad to hear from you. It's 95% ok. Just in case of deceleration, it revs up the engine too much when I'm doing left/right turn. The case is. I'm driving home central street, 4th gear, here is my right turn, Im pressing break to slow down, it shifts to 3rd, then more slowdown, already done my turn, pressing gas pedal, and car does 3-1 and then instantly to 2, engine gets 2500rpm for a moment (because car had to either stay on 3rd or shift to 2nd. But not to 1st. As it's too much speed for the 1st). So, 3-1-2 instead of just 3-2. I was tired of that "engine RPM bump" and started to investigate. And car NEVER on any deceleration shift 3-2. Always 3-1-2. Speed doesn't matter, turn or just linear stop. Like it doesn't know how to do it.
@@GaryFerraro If to think that is only solenoids problem this 1->2 bump and 3->1 skip. SL1 and SL2 should be ideally both replaced. Especially SL1 under my logical suspicion.
It should disengage doing 1->2 which I can sometimes hear the bump, and should disengage when 3 -> 2. Which is not happening. And maybe pressure SLT.
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