I've come back to tell of my amateur roofing experience, and to reinforce the warning given in this video series. To preface, I'm a 36 year old capable Carpenter in good shape. I'm also generally handy and a good problem solver. I decided to help my neighbor out after she was unable to afford the high roofing quotes she had received. The roof is a little over 1000sqft (10 square) and is from 1927. I did everything on my own and it took me 53 hours over 6 days, which does not include shopping trips. When you're not working on a new structure, there are many issues you can run into. There were rotten boards and rafters to deal with; issues with transitioning between additions; oversized roof protrusions that needed expensive flashing; a lot of nails to pound from previous cedar shake shingles; sunken roof (which is hard to snap a line on); uneven line along the gutter edge, which makes it difficult getting your 1/4"-3/4" reveal consistent. There's also the issue of tools. I borrowed some tools, and bought a bigger used compressor. The compressor broke, but thankfully I was able to borrow one. The stapler broke as well. I dropped the borrowed nailer off the roof once, but thankfully it was fine. There were power lines and trees that didn't allow materials to be delivered to the roof, so a ladder hoist might be necessary. I was able to make a simple one out of plywood and rope with a spare ladder. I say this because these are potential costs incurred. Of course I ran short on materials. Renting a dumpster makes sense, as you probably won't save much money driving several loads to the landfill. Another important topic to mention is your health. I'm currently icing my right arm, as my fingers are numb from all the nailing and cutting shingles. That little button on the hook knife has destroyed my thumb. Walking on a steeper pitch was hard on my back, legs, and feet. I didn't fall, but I thought about jumping at some points 😆 In summary, I will never do a roof again and this is now on the top of the list of shitty jobs I've done. The good: No rain meant I didn't have to tarp; the weather was unseasonably nice; I got fed; I learned a valuable lesson; and I respect roofers even more.
Thank you very much for that comment! I'm sorry you had such a rough time but I appreciate you explaining to others that the warning in the beginning is no joke. I'm all about people saving money with my videos but they're not really meant for DIYers. Funny thing is I absolutely would've said you qualify to diy a roof IF it was your own but recommended against doing it for someone else, especially if there's cedar shake involved. You're a good man though. Thank you again for the comment.
I'm doing one by myself right now and it sucks but it's a 800 sqft house. I really wish I had a couple guys to help out. I bet with two more capable hands and cutting that job time in half you would have found it less taxing on your body. I know my back is gonna hurt tomorrow but I have to get started on the shingles 😬
The one thing I have learned from working on an old house is that EVERYTHING takes at least twice as long as you expect. Even if you allow twice as long, it going to take twice as long as that. If you are living in the house at the time of work, it's going to take even longer than that.
20 year roofer hear. I don't like bashing others who are trying to be helpful, and for the most part, you are spot on. Those corners though, man. I know you can do better than that. Always wrap the bottom around the corner, and run flush on your rakes. Roof on brother!
Thank you for the best applications and examples. I had roofed with carpenters at 8, then at a friends parents at eighteen. I knew i could roof again and with your expertise forged ahead with some roofers and finished just took 3 inches of rain and no leaks. Knock on wood. Super T^hanks again for your professionalism and encouragement.
Today I did my first shingle job. This video was what I base my process on and had very little scap. I am sore and glad it's done. Thanks for sharing. Semper Fidelis
I wanted to let you know I appreciate the videos you've made. Last summer, after watching *a ton* of your clips, I took the plunge and completely rebuilt a Florida room's roof at my house (replaced water damaged sub-roofing, repaired rotten truss elements, etc). The roofing work turned out beautifully, due in very large part to your channel. I'm positive it took me 5x longer to do than a professional would have taken, but I don't care. It doesn't leak, even in the heaviest rains, and I admire the perfection of the architectural shingle placement from the second floor almost every morning. Thank you for sharing the basic and finer points of your craft with us.
@@NWIVeteranConstruction LOL I did chalk off every other shingle line, because I was terrified of losing control of the layout and it looking like shit. I admire people who can use roofing-fu gained from long experience and just get it right.
May I make a suggestion? I'm not a roofer, but I AM very handy and can a lot re home repair and maintenance. When applying the rain/ice barrier sheets, I noticed that you recommend rolling it and bending it over the edge of the plywood to make the cut mark/guide. To make it even easier---for those who have anxiety about heights and are worried about not being able to see the cut guide clearly---color the plywood edge with white chalk before you roll and push the ice barrier over it. The chalk will transfer from the plywood to the barrier sheet when you press it over the edge. When you gather it back towards yourself, you'll see a white line---thus a more clear, defined line as a cut guide. ;)
I loved the way you explained it all. At the beginning of your video, you said that this video was important to you and I would say that you delivered it and did a very good job. You were calm, confident, knowledgeable and having good attitude. I wish you the best. Cheers from Manitoba, Canada.
This is a fantastic explanation ! I'm guessing many people haven't heard of gutter apron yet. Love finding videos in which contractors are using newer, better designed and properly updated products. Don't be stubborn people - start using gutter apron. I'm about to do a roof for the first time myself - picking up gutter apron today !
@@Chris-uv4jw It's bc he's not using drip edge at the lower eave of the roof. You've never heard of gutter apron bc it's fairly new. There is a big difference between drip edge and gutter apron. Just bc you haven't seen or heard of it - doesn't make it a unicorn.
@@turnsufficient4971 It’s also because it’s commonly called eave flashing, not gutter apron. It’s not some new thing, it’s drip edge with a different profile.
Fantastic! I learned almost everything I know from watching your videos up to now and did my 4th (and finally close to perfect) roof this Summer, with a glass porch coming off the eave and a discontinuity (large roof tied into a small bedroom) at the rake. I have lived with leaks between the eave and the glass porch for 22 years and finally I fixed as part of the new roof job. Thanks for doing this ground up video series!
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I was going to mention that the roofing detail where a small roof ties in at the rake (Think continuous roof on one side but the small roof peaks halfway up the gable of the larger roof). That detail is almost impossible to find anywhere on line. I figured it out (cut a slot in the sheathing at the peak of the small roof, back to the wall and run the ridge cap into the slot). If you could demonstrate that at some point it might help some folks out.
I am currently doing my 3rd roofing job that I have done during my lifetime. I want to thank you for doing this video. I like the part about how to cut shingles .
Great video. I'm getting estimates now for my new roof. This is so helpful that even as an older woman with zero carpentry skills I almost feel like I could do it myself. Except that I can barely watch when you walk near the edge of that roof. With your back to the edge! Be careful!
Don't know much about roofing, but was thinking about doing a repair on our house . I came across ur video. Thank you for taking the time to help us to try n do it ourselves. My dad passed and he was the one who maintenance the house. Its hard to find someone who won't take advantage of 3 women. I think u did a great job 😉 I hope your arm is doing good nu recovered.... Sandra
Thanks X3 for sharing your video with us.... the world is already better with people like you, and I, and with great wise comments from all the great intelligent people commenting here .... I did quite a few roofs, learning from each to better profit while producing a line of satisfied customers that resulted in a long chain of free advertising that fortunately ended to better profit on my own properties .... your video and comments gave me pleasure remembering all the good times growing up in business
I just finished reroofing my 1600sqft house with a 4/12 pitch. About as typical as it gets. Took a month and a half working half days (that's all my body can take) and I had to tarp it three times for light rain. Had to remove Hardishake (PITA) and add OSB decking and asphalt shingles so it was a complete job. Turned out awesome and the inspector was very impressed with the work. I watched a lot of videos to figure out what was good and bad and took my time. If I can do it most anyone can. 8-)
I really appreciate your videos. Nice to get a great updated way of how to roof. I watched your vids and then went and roofed my building. It went so smooth and hardly any waste. Thanks bro
I feel like I should have paid for this video. Very helpful!! it's been 15 years since I've done a roof and I needed a refresher plus you are using some new materials I didn't know about. Thank you!!
I wish you well! Welcome to my world lol enjoy and don't do any guess work! Know you're right AND WHY before installing to avoid complications with the roof
@@NWIVeteranConstruction we we’re stressing about having to pay for a new roof after all the costs were incurring until coming across your video series. It gave me the confidence to learn snd do it myself. Spent 3hrs last night taking notes and soaking up as much knowledge from you as I can
Great videos. I really like how you do it step by step and don't rush it. Learning a lot from your videos. I retired and live in Serbia. Have 2 houses so lots to do.
Thanks.. my second roof is ready to go.. I did a shed years ago.. Now doing a screen room.. I got the ice water shield and drip edge ready to go in the garage, starter strips and the synthetic.. Shingle order I still have to pick up at the store so I got a pretty big job this weekend.. Thanks for posting this my friend!
I roofed at 14 in 1996. We big plastic headed tac nails. The guys doing houses across from us used staples. High winds came through 3 summers later. My step dad called me and asked "guess whose rooftops stayed together?" Ours did. If you do it. Spend the extra time and don't use staples ever.
Cap nails won't keep shingles from blowing off a roof. They probably used only 3 nails in the shingles or used nails that were too short, or both. Good job on that roof though. Definitely no place to cut corners.
If you are talking about using cap nails to attach underlayment, that has nothing to do with shingle strength. Roofers have been using a hammer tacker since roofing started.
I'm gearing up to redo some shingles on my house and I have been so afraid to do it.. but you give really clear instruction and I feel confident that it might not be as pretty as your work but I am atleast confident it will keep my house warm and dry with no leaks you really are cool dude.
right on just make sure you watch my next videos that will help on the shingling, have plenty of help, good weather, and a good game plan for tear off/ dry in
Thanks a lot, I have 3 questions because I am doing my own roof once spring arrives and April showers clear out: 1. nail CAPS (vs. using staples or nails) won't let water thru ? 2. Doing a section at a time of my hipped roof. My first section looks like your neighbor's house at 5:47, do i need to roll out my Feltbuster the entire 60 feet or can I roll out 35-40, get it straight then overlap by a foot or two and continue to the end ??? 3. Does 30lb asphalt paper keep rain out better than Feltbuster ? It may take me 5 or 6 days to get this 1st large section entirely finished. Also I have wood slats, not plywood as house was built in 1960. thanks for any info....
Thank you, for these 3 parts of real man/world knowledge. My roof is very similar to this. so awesome reference material for me to fall back on if needed, and to show my helper when confusion may start to set in. Have a great day, rom Miracle Beach BC Canada.
As a 3rd generation roofer with 20 years experience this man is bang on. If I could add anything is that in many states and for me provinces the manufacture of your shingles asks you use their ice and water and paper. The importance of this even tho it often costs more is that if something ever did go wrong you have done everything to manufacturers specs and they are then responsible. Always do 2 rows of ice and water underlay and some low pitch roofs ask for the entire roof to be ice and watered (3/12 and below) if you have followed these specs also make sure to have sufficient ventilation which I almost always suggest ridge vent and make sure your soffits are open to your attic and not blocked by insulation.
Do you ever use the peel and stick stuff that goes around the perimeter of the roof? .. I think it goes down directly onto the plywood and is about 8” wide. Seems like once that is down and your starter row goes on top that would be pretty thick
Hey boss! I have watched all your videos man and it has helped me so much with my business and just doing a beautiful job for people. Do you have any videos of doing presidential Shake?
Good job man. Your explanation throughout was very thorough and informative. Everytime you got near the edge I was on pins and needles. One mishap and No more roofing. Definitely shows your expertise and how comfortable you are on the roof. Learned a lot from this short video. Keep up the good work. 👍
Great video. Love your philosophy of making everything look good even if it will be tucked behind a gutter or something. Too many guys don't give a shit. I think it spills into the rest of their work.
Guy seems to really know his stuff, impressive and much better detailed instruction and easy to listen to then other videos. I’m just a homeowner that wanted to learn more. My 24x72 garage has one side that is in horrible shape. Breaking and folding shingles, faded & weak. However the back side or slope is perfect, no issues. Listening to him, I’m thinking the front has severely had degranulated. My front gutter is full of shingle material. When installed, they put two twirling roof vents on back sloop, but the front sloop has none? Now wondering if the front should have had better venting? It is possible that the back doesn’t get as much sun because it’s closest to tree line? But all the more reason they should have maybe put the vents on front sloop instead? Interesting and every homeowner should watch this! The roof is about 20 years old, but I never understood why one side looks brand new, while the other is faded and breaking apart. I was thinking that side gets more sun, rain, weather etc. Now I’m wondering if the venting wasn’t right or ideal from the start!
ventilation is tricky. usually vents go on the back though. garages don't need a ton of ventilation but to each their own there i believe. intake and outake is very important if you end up looking into at all be sure to check into that. baffles and ridge vent are a good way to go but if the garage isn't insulated you just need to make sure your soffit is vented
Good to see you're on your way to learning! If the full length gutter apron piece were toward the house, the cut seam of the rear piece gets hidden under the factory end of the full length piece. This would be visible if no gutter is planned. You basically did that part of the install backwards compared to best practice.
Thanks for your incredible videos. I am roofing a cottage in MI and your videos are my "go to". The cottage was built in the early 1960's and has no roof vent, but instead gable vents. Not sure how many times it has been reroofed, but no one has ever cut a ridge vent, so I am guessing the gable vents are adequate?
awesome video I would add if you don't mind when installing your ice barrier you put it under your gutter apron and 1 inch onto the fascia so ice dams don't go under your edge detail at the gutter
Actually you put the ice and water on After putting your drip edge (gutter apron as you call it) .. And the reason why, is because if any water were to get onto your ice and water, it would roll down the ice and water, hit the lip of your drip edge, and then fall into your gutter.. That's the correct way
@@timbibin1301 CertainTeed requires ice an water under for ice damned areas even if water goes under the self sealing product seals the nails and cannot get to your decking. If it's on top of your edge detail anytime the gutter backs up the water goes under your edge detail and onto your decking.
This brings up a lot of questions about my roof that blew off a week ago in a storm. It was 10 years old and was supposed to be rated at 120 mph with six nails per square I think that’s what one shingle is called. But anyway insurance is paying for it it’s just a pain in the butt to deal with the contractors
Great videos, I will be doing my garage this summer....not doing the house, just too high and it takes me too much ti.e to figure out how to gback on the ladder to get down...
7:30 What is "starter?" What is "rich cap?" at 8:00 did you say "blow offs?" Wind blowing shingles off? Did you say it's caused by "high nails?" What are high nails?
Nice zak! Neat and tidy 👌 Great tutorial. Appreciate u taking the time to teach and pass on some tricks of the trade. Keep on keeping on, from South Oz ✌
Thanks for this video. Lots of good explanations and reasons why things need to be done the way they are done. It helps with the theory of it all so when faced with a situation that doesn't exactly fit the example, we can still figure it out by applying the principle. Well done!
Thanks for your video I'm attempting to do a roof job of my own and I had a question for you. What size dumpster would you get for about a 28 square roof single tab shingled tear-off. Thanks again for your videos
Awesome video guys, I always wondered why I seen so many videos of roofing and they didn't cover the whole roof with tarpaper like the old days. But it makes sense for no need to. I also learned about the bottom edge and not using a regular drip edge. God bless
Great videos. Very informative with attention to detail. 1 clarification on overlap of drip edge, though it's not a big issue because I've seen everything from a 12 " lap to butting ends with no lap lol. From the 2021 International Residential Code-- "A drip edge shall be provided at eaves and rake edges of shingle roofs. Adjacent segments of drip edge shall be overlapped not less than 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edges shall extend not less than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) below the roof sheathing and extend up back onto the roof deck not less than 2 inches (51 mm)."
Love the video, and a lot of your stuff I’ve watched is great advice. I believe one I really liked was the new dormer build for a bathroom I believe it was? But in this k jjst want to comment, the ice shield should go first, and then the drip edge. I see how some people would want to think the water from the ice shield ahold run off the drip edge to not get behind the gutters. But the drip edge being above the ice shield would divert all rainwater and melting snow etc into the gutter as drip edge is meant to do. If there is ice damming and some water gets behind the drip edge, it will not enter the home it will still go between the fascia and eaves trough, which generally isn’t ideal year round, but in the one off circumstance of ice damming it won’t make a difference if water drips behind the eaves. The issue with drip edge metal first is that the end of the plywood isn’t sealed, and ice dams at the eaves will let water creep up behind the drip edge, where it can then attack the few inches of exposed plywood but also then drain behind the fascia metal at attack the fascia boards. And in some worst case scenarios I’ve seen the water that enters the aluminum fascia then get into the soffit. If the soffit was originally installed before the siding, so there isn’t siding behind the soffit j trim on the exterior wall then water gets from the aluminum fascia, into the soffit, and can run behind the siding, and possibly tyvek depending how the build was done. Edit to clarify I meant when the drip edge is above the ice shield as I believe to be best, is that all the rainwater and melting snow etc will drain off the shingles and over the drip edge still, which is it’s primary function.
Question about valleys - What keeps water that's flowing down the valleys from from getting underneath the edges of the shingles that line both sides of the valley?
Love the channel. Again, thank you for sharing. I have a dilemma, and I am hoping you could give me some advice. I built a 16 x 20 pavilion. My initial plan was to install a metal roof. I installed TG 1 x 6 and roof felt. I wanted a good look from the inside. I then installed battens for the metal roof. I ended up installing a couple pieces of the metal roof. Was not happy with the look. My only option now is to shingle the roof. My question is- should I sheet over the battens? Or remove everything and start from scratch? Thanks- I appreciate your help.
Oh that's a rough one. I'm not sure to be honest. If you're going to sheet it though, I would make sure the gap between the plywood and and 1x6 decking won't cause any issues. I'm not sure if it does but I would assume it would. So it might be worth removing the Perlins you installed on top of you plan to shingle it. There isn't another metal roof color that would look better you can swap them out for?
Oh and it sounded like the 1x6 you put on are going to be visible from the bottom? You might want to go with a shorter roofing nail. (¾ - 1 in) to ensure the nail won't poke through the wood on the bottom. 1 inch nails might be too long. If you use a shorter nail like that. Use 6 nails per shingle and make sure you use a better brand with nice tar on them.
Thanks much for the reply. I appreciate your advice. Perhaps remove and start from scratch - As you said, “do it the right way.” My hats off to you. Your a great instructor. I’ve been in Law Enforcement for 22 years and teach firearms training. I’d hire you in a minute brother. Lol. Thanks again and be safe. Keep you posted with updates.
So question? I see that your sheeting goes right to the edge of your gable ends sub facia boards. Is this because you are putting flashing as your facia over your gable end sub facia? What if you are finishing it off with 1/2 pine? Would you have to put your pine facia on first then bring your sheeting right to the edge of your facia board then drip edge over the facia?
Another video recco’d putting the underlayment over the ice and water barrier also. Allows the I & W shield to stay in place if shingles are removed at a later date. Any thoughts?
That's not necessary, but I've heard of it before and it makes a lot of sense! It's essentially a waste of time and money, and would definitely add up to thousands per year, but it would make the next guys tear off job so much easier. I honestly wish it was code so everyone has to do it and we can charge accordingly... but like I said it's more money and with all the price increases in the industry the homeowners have really been getting hit hard.
I've come back to tell of my amateur roofing experience, and to reinforce the warning given in this video series.
To preface, I'm a 36 year old capable Carpenter in good shape. I'm also generally handy and a good problem solver.
I decided to help my neighbor out after she was unable to afford the high roofing quotes she had received.
The roof is a little over 1000sqft (10 square) and is from 1927.
I did everything on my own and it took me 53 hours over 6 days, which does not include shopping trips.
When you're not working on a new structure, there are many issues you can run into.
There were rotten boards and rafters to deal with; issues with transitioning between additions; oversized roof protrusions that needed expensive flashing; a lot of nails to pound from previous cedar shake shingles; sunken roof (which is hard to snap a line on); uneven line along the gutter edge, which makes it difficult getting your 1/4"-3/4" reveal consistent.
There's also the issue of tools.
I borrowed some tools, and bought a bigger used compressor.
The compressor broke, but thankfully I was able to borrow one.
The stapler broke as well.
I dropped the borrowed nailer off the roof once, but thankfully it was fine.
There were power lines and trees that didn't allow materials to be delivered to the roof, so a ladder hoist might be necessary. I was able to make a simple one out of plywood and rope with a spare ladder.
I say this because these are potential costs incurred.
Of course I ran short on materials.
Renting a dumpster makes sense, as you probably won't save much money driving several loads to the landfill.
Another important topic to mention is your health.
I'm currently icing my right arm, as my fingers are numb from all the nailing and cutting shingles.
That little button on the hook knife has destroyed my thumb.
Walking on a steeper pitch was hard on my back, legs, and feet.
I didn't fall, but I thought about jumping at some points 😆
In summary, I will never do a roof again and this is now on the top of the list of shitty jobs I've done.
The good: No rain meant I didn't have to tarp; the weather was unseasonably nice; I got fed; I learned a valuable lesson; and I respect roofers even more.
Thank you very much for that comment! I'm sorry you had such a rough time but I appreciate you explaining to others that the warning in the beginning is no joke. I'm all about people saving money with my videos but they're not really meant for DIYers. Funny thing is I absolutely would've said you qualify to diy a roof IF it was your own but recommended against doing it for someone else, especially if there's cedar shake involved. You're a good man though. Thank you again for the comment.
@@NWIVeteranConstruction do we need ice and water shield if it doesn't freeze where I live?
I'm doing one by myself right now and it sucks but it's a 800 sqft house. I really wish I had a couple guys to help out. I bet with two more capable hands and cutting that job time in half you would have found it less taxing on your body. I know my back is gonna hurt tomorrow but I have to get started on the shingles 😬
The one thing I have learned from working on an old house is that EVERYTHING takes at least twice as long as you expect. Even if you allow twice as long, it going to take twice as long as that. If you are living in the house at the time of work, it's going to take even longer than that.
@@MAGAMAN yup, its never easy and simple
I roof so much I enjoy watching other people do roofing RIGHT
thank you
What's right? Opinions?
@@randythayer8440 there’s 1000 different ways to skin a goldfish
20 year roofer hear. I don't like bashing others who are trying to be helpful, and for the most part, you are spot on.
Those corners though, man. I know you can do better than that. Always wrap the bottom around the corner, and run flush on your rakes.
Roof on brother!
The bird box will do all that. Watch my bird box video
Thank you for the best applications and examples. I had roofed with carpenters at 8, then at a friends parents at eighteen. I knew i could roof again and with your expertise forged ahead with some roofers and finished just took 3 inches of rain and no leaks. Knock on wood. Super T^hanks again for your professionalism and encouragement.
Today I did my first shingle job. This video was what I base my process on and had very little scap. I am sore and glad it's done. Thanks for sharing. Semper Fidelis
God bless your soul sir. Helping a first time homebuyer take care of his own place.
Yessir just don't bite off more than you can chew! This stuff is more detailed than a beginner would think
I wanted to let you know I appreciate the videos you've made. Last summer, after watching *a ton* of your clips, I took the plunge and completely rebuilt a Florida room's roof at my house (replaced water damaged sub-roofing, repaired rotten truss elements, etc). The roofing work turned out beautifully, due in very large part to your channel. I'm positive it took me 5x longer to do than a professional would have taken, but I don't care. It doesn't leak, even in the heaviest rains, and I admire the perfection of the architectural shingle placement from the second floor almost every morning. Thank you for sharing the basic and finer points of your craft with us.
That's awesome man I'm Happy to help
@@NWIVeteranConstruction LOL I did chalk off every other shingle line, because I was terrified of losing control of the layout and it looking like shit. I admire people who can use roofing-fu gained from long experience and just get it right.
May I make a suggestion? I'm not a roofer, but I AM very handy and can a lot re home repair and maintenance. When applying the rain/ice barrier sheets, I noticed that you recommend rolling it and bending it over the edge of the plywood to make the cut mark/guide. To make it even easier---for those who have anxiety about heights and are worried about not being able to see the cut guide clearly---color the plywood edge with white chalk before you roll and push the ice barrier over it. The chalk will transfer from the plywood to the barrier sheet when you press it over the edge. When you gather it back towards yourself, you'll see a white line---thus a more clear, defined line as a cut guide. ;)
great suggestion
Its DIY. DO IT YOUNG
Exactly why your maintenance bruh
Anyone with anxiety about heights should not be on a roof to begin with.
Or even easier! Fold and crease it at edge!
this is nice. getting back into the game after 6 yrs off the roof. gotta get my knowledge back up. thank you.
I loved the way you explained it all. At the beginning of your video, you said that this video was important to you and I would say that you delivered it and did a very good job. You were calm, confident, knowledgeable and having good attitude. I wish you the best. Cheers from Manitoba, Canada.
Thank you! I appreciate that
I'm 20 years in and I watch a lot of your videos. Always good work. Thanks
Glad you enjoy them
This is a fantastic explanation ! I'm guessing many people haven't heard of gutter apron yet. Love finding videos in which contractors are using newer, better designed and properly updated products. Don't be stubborn people - start using gutter apron. I'm about to do a roof for the first time myself - picking up gutter apron today !
Yessir!
Never heard of a gutter apron because no one uses that term. I've been roofing for over 10 years an never I have I seen anyone call drip gutter apron
@@Chris-uv4jw It's bc he's not using drip edge at the lower eave of the roof. You've never heard of gutter apron bc it's fairly new. There is a big difference between drip edge and gutter apron. Just bc you haven't seen or heard of it - doesn't make it a unicorn.
@@Chris-uv4jw Watch the video next time before you comment.
@@turnsufficient4971 It’s also because it’s commonly called eave flashing, not gutter apron. It’s not some new thing, it’s drip edge with a different profile.
Thanks for the tips…. Watched all 3 roofing videos before roofing my workshop…. And I smashed the like button 👍
I appreciate it bud. Hope the videos helped
Hot Danm a TH-camr that actually gets DIY'ers. Thanks Brother
Fantastic! I learned almost everything I know from watching your videos up to now and did my 4th (and finally close to perfect) roof this Summer, with a glass porch coming off the eave and a discontinuity (large roof tied into a small bedroom) at the rake. I have lived with leaks between the eave and the glass porch for 22 years and finally I fixed as part of the new roof job. Thanks for doing this ground up video series!
Great job!
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I was going to mention that the roofing detail where a small roof ties in at the rake (Think continuous roof on one side but the small roof peaks halfway up the gable of the larger roof). That detail is almost impossible to find anywhere on line. I figured it out (cut a slot in the sheathing at the peak of the small roof, back to the wall and run the ridge cap into the slot). If you could demonstrate that at some point it might help some folks out.
I appreciate you putting out these videos for persons who need help. Advice. I appreciate you helping others.
thank you
I am currently doing my 3rd roofing job that I have done during my lifetime. I want to thank you for doing this video. I like the part about how to cut shingles .
Wow thanks for the starter course! Appreciate you taking the time to explain some of the details that get easily skipped over.
Great video. I'm getting estimates now for my new roof. This is so helpful that even as an older woman with zero carpentry skills I almost feel like I could do it myself. Except that I can barely watch when you walk near the edge of that roof. With your back to the edge! Be careful!
Don't know much about roofing, but was thinking about doing a repair on our house . I came across ur video. Thank you for taking the time to help us to try n do it ourselves. My dad passed and he was the one who maintenance the house. Its hard to find someone who won't take advantage of 3 women. I think u did a great job 😉 I hope your arm is doing good nu recovered....
Sandra
Thanks X3 for sharing your video with us.... the world is already better with people like you, and I, and with great wise comments from all the great intelligent people commenting here .... I did quite a few roofs, learning from each to better profit while producing a line of satisfied customers that resulted in a long chain of free advertising that fortunately ended to better profit on my own properties .... your video and comments gave me pleasure remembering all the good times growing up in business
I appreciate that thank you
Really appreciate the way you lay everything out. Very clear, very respectful. Nicely done
Thanks for all the tip and trick I really appreciate how you show how all the little things
What would northwest Indiana do without you. Great work, great people.
lol ahh stop it. i ain't nobody
I just finished reroofing my 1600sqft house with a 4/12 pitch. About as typical as it gets. Took a month and a half working half days (that's all my body can take) and I had to tarp it three times for light rain. Had to remove Hardishake (PITA) and add OSB decking and asphalt shingles so it was a complete job. Turned out awesome and the inspector was very impressed with the work. I watched a lot of videos to figure out what was good and bad and took my time. If I can do it most anyone can. 8-)
glad it worked out!
noice
Finally a true roofer ,I’ve been installing for 35 years and seen so many wrong videos 😞😞😞stand tall son be proud and raise your price 🤗🤗
Thank you sir!
Zach, anymore roofing videos coming? Of all the roofing videos out there , yours is the most informative and best overall.
I really appreciate your videos. Nice to get a great updated way of how to roof. I watched your vids and then went and roofed my building. It went so smooth and hardly any waste. Thanks bro
Very good video. Glad I kept scrolling till I found it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Man don’t stop making videos. Thanks for this.
Coming back strong don't you worry about that!
I feel like I should have paid for this video. Very helpful!! it's been 15 years since I've done a roof and I needed a refresher plus you are using some new materials I didn't know about. Thank you!!
So how did it go?
Thank you for ABSOLUTELY ALL THE INFORMATION you guys provided in these three videos...
No problem! Happy to help
You're a Godsend sir. Just bought my first house and doing the roof with some family members.
I wish you well! Welcome to my world lol enjoy and don't do any guess work! Know you're right AND WHY before installing to avoid complications with the roof
@@NWIVeteranConstruction we we’re stressing about having to pay for a new roof after all the costs were incurring until coming across your video series. It gave me the confidence to learn snd do it myself.
Spent 3hrs last night taking notes and soaking up as much knowledge from you as I can
Great videos. I really like how you do it step by step and don't rush it. Learning a lot from your videos. I retired and live in Serbia. Have 2 houses so lots to do.
Great video! Anyone else notice the shed needing a serious re-roof done ASAP?!
You're a good teacher my brother 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I appreciate that
Thanks.. my second roof is ready to go.. I did a shed years ago.. Now doing a screen room.. I got the ice water shield and drip edge ready to go in the garage, starter strips and the synthetic.. Shingle order I still have to pick up at the store so I got a pretty big job this weekend.. Thanks for posting this my friend!
No problem! Be sure to check out part 3 if you haven't done so already! It might help you out tremendously
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I did watch them all.. Great stuff my friend! Thank you
I roofed at 14 in 1996. We big plastic headed tac nails. The guys doing houses across from us used staples. High winds came through 3 summers later. My step dad called me and asked "guess whose rooftops stayed together?" Ours did. If you do it. Spend the extra time and don't use staples ever.
Cap nails won't keep shingles from blowing off a roof. They probably used only 3 nails in the shingles or used nails that were too short, or both. Good job on that roof though. Definitely no place to cut corners.
If you are talking about using cap nails to attach underlayment, that has nothing to do with shingle strength. Roofers have been using a hammer tacker since roofing started.
Planning a new covered deck build for a new home. Thank you, very much, for this.
These videos are quite well done and so so helpful. Thank you for making them!
I'm gearing up to redo some shingles on my house and I have been so afraid to do it.. but you give really clear instruction and I feel confident that it might not be as pretty as your work but I am atleast confident it will keep my house warm and dry with no leaks you really are cool dude.
right on just make sure you watch my next videos that will help on the shingling, have plenty of help, good weather, and a good game plan for tear off/ dry in
Thank you for all your helpful videos please keep them coming 👍
I did tin and shingle roofs. I remember shingle roofing a 12 x 12 pitch on an early 1900s house in Kansas. Great times.
Not everyone does this on TH-cam good job man !
Thanks a lot, I have 3 questions because I am doing my own roof once spring arrives and April showers clear out:
1. nail CAPS (vs. using staples or nails) won't let water thru ?
2. Doing a section at a time of my hipped roof. My first section looks like your neighbor's house at 5:47, do i need to roll out my Feltbuster the entire 60 feet or can I roll out 35-40, get it straight then overlap by a foot or two and continue to the end ???
3. Does 30lb asphalt paper keep rain out better than Feltbuster ? It may take me 5 or 6 days to get this 1st large section entirely finished. Also I have wood slats, not plywood as house was built in 1960. thanks for any info....
Been loving my pitch hopper. Going to use it when I clean my chimney
it is a great product!
I’m watching this on the Marine Corps’ founding anniversary. Thanks 😊
Great tip on how to gauge the roof pitch cut line on drip edge:)
Thank you, for these 3 parts of real man/world knowledge.
My roof is very similar to this. so awesome reference material for me to fall back on if needed, and to show my helper when confusion may start to set in.
Have a great day, rom Miracle Beach BC Canada.
Great video. Thank you for the thorough content. It know it’s a lot of work
As a 3rd generation roofer with 20 years experience this man is bang on. If I could add anything is that in many states and for me provinces the manufacture of your shingles asks you use their ice and water and paper. The importance of this even tho it often costs more is that if something ever did go wrong you have done everything to manufacturers specs and they are then responsible. Always do 2 rows of ice and water underlay and some low pitch roofs ask for the entire roof to be ice and watered (3/12 and below) if you have followed these specs also make sure to have sufficient ventilation which I almost always suggest ridge vent and make sure your soffits are open to your attic and not blocked by insulation.
I appreciate it brotha!
Thanks! Good video! Question: why did you cover the ridge vent opening with the underlayment?
Do you ever use the peel and stick stuff that goes around the perimeter of the roof? .. I think it goes down directly onto the plywood and is about 8” wide. Seems like once that is down and your starter row goes on top that would be pretty thick
that rollout was swagged out
Hey boss! I have watched all your videos man and it has helped me so much with my business and just doing a beautiful job for people. Do you have any videos of doing presidential Shake?
Very educational. It helps to know what to expect from contractors who ask premium prices.
Thank you for the instruction - you are a great teacher!
I found this very helpful, thank you!
Good job man. Your explanation throughout was very thorough and informative. Everytime you got near the edge I was on pins and needles. One mishap and No more roofing. Definitely shows your expertise and how comfortable you are on the roof. Learned a lot from this short video. Keep up the good work. 👍
Thank you for very informative video. Great job...
Anytime. Thanks
Great video. Love your philosophy of making everything look good even if it will be tucked behind a gutter or something. Too many guys don't give a shit. I think it spills into the rest of their work.
very true! thank you for taking notice
Thanks for the helpful videos... Do you have any on hip style roofs? I have to reroof my garage before winter.... Thank you!
Guy seems to really know his stuff, impressive and much better detailed instruction and easy to listen to then other videos. I’m just a homeowner that wanted to learn more. My 24x72 garage has one side that is in horrible shape. Breaking and folding shingles, faded & weak. However the back side or slope is perfect, no issues. Listening to him, I’m thinking the front has severely had degranulated. My front gutter is full of shingle material. When installed, they put two twirling roof vents on back sloop, but the front sloop has none? Now wondering if the front should have had better venting? It is possible that the back doesn’t get as much sun because it’s closest to tree line? But all the more reason they should have maybe put the vents on front sloop instead? Interesting and every homeowner should watch this!
The roof is about 20 years old, but I never understood why one side looks brand new, while the other is faded and breaking apart. I was thinking that side gets more sun, rain, weather etc. Now I’m wondering if the venting wasn’t right or ideal from the start!
ventilation is tricky. usually vents go on the back though. garages don't need a ton of ventilation but to each their own there i believe. intake and outake is very important if you end up looking into at all be sure to check into that. baffles and ridge vent are a good way to go but if the garage isn't insulated you just need to make sure your soffit is vented
Good to see you're on your way to learning! If the full length gutter apron piece were toward the house, the cut seam of the rear piece gets hidden under the factory end of the full length piece. This would be visible if no gutter is planned. You basically did that part of the install backwards compared to best practice.
Wrong
Thanks for your incredible videos. I am roofing a cottage in MI and your videos are my "go to". The cottage was built in the early 1960's and has no roof vent, but instead gable vents. Not sure how many times it has been reroofed, but no one has ever cut a ridge vent, so I am guessing the gable vents are adequate?
Ouwou. Gable vents are tricky. I cannot give any advice on that subject without seeing everything lol
awesome video I would add if you don't mind when installing your ice barrier you put it under your gutter apron and 1 inch onto the fascia so ice dams don't go under your edge detail at the gutter
yea i've heard of people doing that. not a bad idea but i still sleep plenty good with this order of operation lol thanks for the comment bud
Actually you put the ice and water on After putting your drip edge (gutter apron as you call it) .. And the reason why, is because if any water were to get onto your ice and water, it would roll down the ice and water, hit the lip of your drip edge, and then fall into your gutter.. That's the correct way
@@timbibin1301 CertainTeed requires ice an water under for ice damned areas even if water goes under the self sealing product seals the nails and cannot get to your decking. If it's on top of your edge detail anytime the gutter backs up the water goes under your edge detail and onto your decking.
Wonderful video really appreciated it
This brings up a lot of questions about my roof that blew off a week ago in a storm. It was 10 years old and was supposed to be rated at 120 mph with six nails per square I think that’s what one shingle is called. But anyway insurance is paying for it it’s just a pain in the butt to deal with the contractors
Hi, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your video's and the time you take to teach us how to do something right and beautiful 😊
Glad you enjoy thanks
Great videos, I will be doing my garage this summer....not doing the house, just too high and it takes me too much ti.e to figure out how to gback on the ladder to get down...
Haha be careful and only do what you're sure of. No guessing no messing
Looking forward to your next video. You rock brotha
7:30 What is "starter?" What is "rich cap?" at 8:00 did you say "blow offs?" Wind blowing shingles off? Did you say it's caused by "high nails?" What are high nails?
Thanks for this. Perfect timing for me, about to start framing my garage and plan on roofing myself. Been watching your vids for a while now
make sure you stay tuned to see the shingling parts of this video series
Thank you so much… I am a handyman and can do I lot of things, but roofing..😂😂😂. Your video help a lot thank you Sir.
Nice zak!
Neat and tidy 👌
Great tutorial. Appreciate u taking the time to teach and pass on some tricks of the trade. Keep on keeping on, from South Oz ✌
Yessir thank you!
Thanks for this video. Lots of good explanations and reasons why things need to be done the way they are done. It helps with the theory of it all so when faced with a situation that doesn't exactly fit the example, we can still figure it out by applying the principle. Well done!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your video I'm attempting to do a roof job of my own and I had a question for you. What size dumpster would you get for about a 28 square roof single tab shingled tear-off. Thanks again for your videos
Thank you much for sharing man. 💪🏼🙏🏼
Excellent !
Thank you so much for your videos! I just subscribed 👏🏻👏🏻
Keep them coming! Odd I like to watch this, as I have a fear of heights, however I can use this information with other tasks.
Will do!
@@NWIVeteranConstruction It's We'll do
Awesome video guys, I always wondered why I seen so many videos of roofing and they didn't cover the whole roof with tarpaper like the old days. But it makes sense for no need to. I also learned about the bottom edge and not using a regular drip edge. God bless
Great videos. Very informative with attention to detail. 1 clarification on overlap of drip edge, though it's not a big issue because I've seen everything from a 12 " lap to butting ends with no lap lol. From the 2021 International Residential Code-- "A drip edge shall be provided at eaves and rake edges of shingle roofs. Adjacent segments of drip edge shall be overlapped not less than 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edges shall extend not less than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) below the roof sheathing and extend up back onto the roof deck not less than 2 inches (51 mm)."
You have a talent my man. Thks for a great video
I appreciate that thank you
GREAT VIDEO!! it's awesome to learn from a veteran 🇺🇸💪! Do you have any videos on how to roof around chimneys, pipes and roof vents?
plenty!
Zach when are you going to do another video? Have a great 4th of July and love your roofing videos.
Filming one today on flooring
When I saw his dip can I really started listening, this mans a real roofer
lmao true that brotha thanks for watching!
Love the video, and a lot of your stuff I’ve watched is great advice. I believe one I really liked was the new dormer build for a bathroom I believe it was?
But in this k jjst want to comment, the ice shield should go first, and then the drip edge.
I see how some people would want to think the water from the ice shield ahold run off the drip edge to not get behind the gutters.
But the drip edge being above the ice shield would divert all rainwater and melting snow etc into the gutter as drip edge is meant to do.
If there is ice damming and some water gets behind the drip edge, it will not enter the home it will still go between the fascia and eaves trough, which generally isn’t ideal year round, but in the one off circumstance of ice damming it won’t make a difference if water drips behind the eaves.
The issue with drip edge metal first is that the end of the plywood isn’t sealed, and ice dams at the eaves will let water creep up behind the drip edge, where it can then attack the few inches of exposed plywood but also then drain behind the fascia metal at attack the fascia boards.
And in some worst case scenarios I’ve seen the water that enters the aluminum fascia then get into the soffit.
If the soffit was originally installed before the siding, so there isn’t siding behind the soffit j trim on the exterior wall then water gets from the aluminum fascia, into the soffit, and can run behind the siding, and possibly tyvek depending how the build was done.
Edit to clarify I meant when the drip edge is above the ice shield as I believe to be best, is that all the rainwater and melting snow etc will drain off the shingles and over the drip edge still, which is it’s primary function.
Excellent videos by the way!! Thank you for doing this!
Great video thanks sharing
Great video. Going to be doing a similar detached unheated garage. Do I need roof vents since it’s unheated?
Question about valleys - What keeps water that's flowing down the valleys from from getting underneath the edges of the shingles that line both sides of the valley?
Ok, with the felt paper. What if your running ridge vents and it overlaps like at around 21:12. Tuck it under and nail it? Trim it?
i;ve got a video on ridge vent you can check out. just felt over it, and cut it open before you put the vent on
Way to step up the video content and quality! Very detailed and informative and lots of know how, great stuff.
Thanks for taking notice!
Love the channel. Again, thank you for sharing. I have a dilemma, and I am hoping you could give me some advice. I built a 16 x 20 pavilion. My initial plan was to install a metal roof.
I installed TG 1 x 6 and roof felt. I wanted a good look from the inside. I then installed battens for the metal roof.
I ended up installing a couple pieces of the metal roof. Was not happy with the look.
My only option now is to shingle the roof. My question is- should I sheet over the battens? Or remove everything and start from scratch? Thanks- I appreciate your help.
Oh that's a rough one. I'm not sure to be honest. If you're going to sheet it though, I would make sure the gap between the plywood and and 1x6 decking won't cause any issues. I'm not sure if it does but I would assume it would. So it might be worth removing the Perlins you installed on top of you plan to shingle it. There isn't another metal roof color that would look better you can swap them out for?
Oh and it sounded like the 1x6 you put on are going to be visible from the bottom? You might want to go with a shorter roofing nail. (¾ - 1 in) to ensure the nail won't poke through the wood on the bottom. 1 inch nails might be too long. If you use a shorter nail like that. Use 6 nails per shingle and make sure you use a better brand with nice tar on them.
Thanks much for the reply. I appreciate your advice. Perhaps remove and start from scratch - As you said, “do it the right way.” My hats off to you. Your a great instructor. I’ve been in Law Enforcement for 22 years and teach firearms training. I’d hire you in a minute brother. Lol. Thanks again and be safe. Keep you posted with updates.
Ty sir for helping others to do job right 💪
So question? I see that your sheeting goes right to the edge of your gable ends sub facia boards. Is this because you are putting flashing as your facia over your gable end sub facia? What if you are finishing it off with 1/2 pine? Would you have to put your pine facia on first then bring your sheeting right to the edge of your facia board then drip edge over the facia?
Does redoing a roof also replace the OSB or only when needed?
Awesome videos. Thank You
Another video recco’d putting the underlayment over the ice and water barrier also. Allows the I & W shield to stay in place if shingles are removed at a later date. Any thoughts?
That's not necessary, but I've heard of it before and it makes a lot of sense! It's essentially a waste of time and money, and would definitely add up to thousands per year, but it would make the next guys tear off job so much easier. I honestly wish it was code so everyone has to do it and we can charge accordingly... but like I said it's more money and with all the price increases in the industry the homeowners have really been getting hit hard.