6 years later and your video is still helping people. Thanks for sharing! This saved me big time. Every place I looked online says the control board is discontinued.
Bruh... AWESOME work! Tested all my parts and came to the control panel. Saw your video and when I pulled mine... same thing, same spot, but mine is way worse. Looks like something exploded under there. Will repair and I'm sure it will work. Mine is completely disconnected from the board.
Bought a control board online and verified the control board was causing the issue, lo and behold I popped the board out and I had the same burn mark. Thank You!
Thanks so much! I had ordered a new board on Amazon for $200. 20 minutes later saw your video, and tried the fix. Works like a charm and was able to cancel the order before it shipped. You rock!
I was getting an F04 E04 error code on my duet WED94HEX dryer after doing the diagnostic. (with machine on standby press any 3 buttons consecutively 3 times within 8 seconds) F4E4 means L2 LINE VOLTAGE ERROR. check the relay connection on the ccu board. check power, etc. I never suspected relay connection on solder board. after watching this video I saved $300 and the dryer is working fine. Thank you so much...
🙌🏻 God bless you. I watched countless TH-cam videos and spent several hours trying to figure out what’s wrong with my dryer. After watching this video I checked my control board and wouldn’t you know it… a burnt circuit and black spot on the housing identical to yours. Thank you for making this video. I was about to throw in the towel and just buy a new dryer.
Two paid repairs have been saved for this video. Don't forget checking the burnt points and make the right bridge. Its simple and saved money. "New" board is $500 value and it had the same problem. And then, it was fixed using the same technique for all PCBA boards. Enjoy the repair despite the downtime for your wife.
Dude, you just saved me over $200 bucks -- and the headache of waiting for the part to come in! I never would've thought to just re-solder the burnt-out connections on the back, but it worked like a charm. Very little cussing, too! I'm with you, though. Who knows how long before it burns out again? You Rock, Marin!
Marin, Thank you so much for a great video. Your simple fix saved me $350 for a new board and my wife was able to dry her clothes the same night. Just like you said in your video, there was a burn mark on the plastic case and the soldered joint had disintegrated. I resoldered it and voila, it ran like new. Thanks again for your helpful video. You rock.
You rock this video and another helped out. Saved me from buying a board as soldering was the trick. Tested with a multi-meter that there was a bad connection on the trace to the post that was burnt. crapped the trace to make sure there was a connection. I almost added a new wire to replace the trace (maybe I should have). But it seemed to work. Had this not worked I would have order that control board.
Awesome video. Just did that myself to whirlpool duet gew9250pw0. Circuit board was little different as expected. Everything else spot on. Same burn mark. Easy solder. Your information made it so simple and saved me money. Thank you sir.
Add me to the list of people that saved money with this repair. I had never soldered before, so put on way too heavy. After a couple tries and a quick search on soldering, realized more isn't necessarily better when soldering. Finally got it right on third try. Thanks!
Great Video Marin !!! After searching numerous sites on the internet I was able to narrow the problem down to the control board. I was just about to buy a new one when I decided to google the net one last time and found your video. It took me 3 times to get the soldering right but on the 3rd try it worked like a charm. As so many others noted below, you also saved me several hundred dollars. This isn't the first time I've gone to the internet to find a 'fix' but this was definitely the most rewarding one. I especially thank you for taking the time to make this video and to share it with others.
timmy d that’s great!!! Ours worked until the drum failed. I should have pulled the circuit board and sold it on eBay. Haha!! You’re welcome! Thanks for the props!!
I am totally not handy when it comes to fixing things, but things were just as you described. I soldered it and so far it has been working like a charm. Thanks a lot.
Thanks you very much, I have the same issue, going to solder it in a few. Question its been 8 years, how long did it last (that you know of [assuming you replaced the dryer after 8 years])
You’re welcome. I hope it works. It lasted until til I removed it and sent it to where washers and dryers go to die. Haha. Crazy that it lasted so long. Good luck bud!
Thanks for the tip. My duet washer and dryer i picked up off the side of the road for free. No Joke! The washer smelled a little funky, but was able to clean it up. The dryer didn't work. I tested all the sensors and fuses but everything tested fine. I checked the top of the circuit board for bulging caps for burned parts/traces. I searched youtube for my model number and found your video. I fixed it in 10 min. It came to life. Thanks a ton!
It got hot because of the amount of current, and possibly a poor solder joint with high resistance. I sugest that in addition to what you did, Run a short little jumper wire that follows the trace to the other two through hole solder joints. The current will now be able to flow through the trace and the jumper wire with less resistance and less heat generated. You should do the same for the other side of the relay.
Thank you very much Marin!!! Like so many others, I just saved about $350 (parts & labor)! Never did this before, but for about $25 dollars I bought the soldering iron and solder at my local Ace Hardware (they're great!) and within the hour it was done! Again, thanks Marin!!!!
It’s a bandaid repair. Inside the relay the points started arcing and pitting causing the heat to unsolder the connection. The relay will need to be changed soon.
Well done Mr. Hero. You allow us ordinary men to be just as heroic in our own little worlds. Hoping this fix lasts for at least a week while I find something cheaper than $305.49!!!
chilly willy I was actually able to find something cheaper - $250. Not exactly piece of cake, but the fact that I'm not paying what every electronic store around town says it's worth, is satisfaction enough
That was exactly my problem - soldering the relay connection worked great - dryer is now working again. Thanks Marin for posting this video and saving me and others expensive repair bills!
Just happened across this while troubleshooting the control board issue my dryer is having. Makes perfect sense. Glad to see someone else had the same idea and it worked for them. Also good for narrowing down the issue lol
I thought it was the fuse a first but thanks to this video and the George Vassallo video got this done in like 30 min, with the same soldering problem, thank you very much
Just had the same thing happen to my son's dryer and found the same burned connection as you did before finding this video. However, the overheating had not only melted the solder joint but sparking had burned away some of the copper foil. Knowing that the heat was probably caused by worn contacts in the relay which caused excessive heat which then overheated and melted out the solder, I ordered another relay for $10 on eBay (Amazon also had them). Replacement of the relay was uneventful but I had to solder a short wire from the relay contact to the burned copper circuit trace. Reinstalled the board and the dryer works fine once again. A little more expensive fix but I'm sure it'll last longer.
Hello and thank you for the video. I had exactly the same issue and burn on the same location on the board but was able to source a replacement board locally for a low price. I and am now considering replacing the relay assembly because what I noticed is that the interior light went out about a month or before the board ultimately failed. One the new board was installed however the interior light started to function again..I really have to shake my head because a light switch is what is taking down an entire dryer and most people are buying new on the idea the main board failed....
Mine had the control dark, display showed no signs of life, but the light came on inside the dryer when the door was opened. I found another video that said to hold the end of cycle button for 3 seconds. This turned on the locked light. I was amazed, I held the same button for 3 seconds and it came back to life and started. So try this first.
Happened to our Sunday morning. Bummed. Went to TH-cam and found your video. Our blown in the sam spot. fixed in 15 minutes, save me $300+. Keep up the good work.
I have a GEW9250PW1 that doesn't light up at all, nothing. Not sure which board would be at fault. The thermo fuse is shot and one is on the way. Any ideas?
@@SteveV2023 I don’t recall exactly. I used the internet and diagnostic tools from different forums. I think it had power just no operation. Wish I could remember. Sorry bud.
Worked for me! My explosion was on the neighboring circuit but works the same, many many thanks! So happy to not have to call the appliance repair guy.
Just watched the video. I had the same problem on our Kenmore Oasis Elite gas dryer. Same burn spot. Spent $20 on soldering iron and solder. Never soldered before but just dapped some on and put it all back together. Dryer is working. Hope it last. Thanks for posting.
My control board has a burn spot in the exact same place as yours. I put a good bubble of solder where the burn was and unfortunately it didn't fix the problem. When I hit the start button there's still a clicking sound coming the part of the control board where the burn mark is on the other side. Any advice or is it just time for a new control board?
I’m sorry. I am really unsure of what you would do at this point. I believe that I (as well as a lot of other folks) got lucky. I wish I had some good advice.
Before i saw your video, i tried it last night, in my case, i din't do it that cleanly, the solder didn't stick correctly to the board, and when i turned it on and pushed the button, the board sparked and popped. So i am waiting for the replacement. Next time, i would do a better job. Thanks. Be careful all.
I would love to see that OEM card before the blow out because literally thousands of people had this exact same problem. They should get a class action if they have not already.
Same Dryer and same exact pin burned on ours after 5 years of great use. I just went through all the sensors and tested everything.. No problems.. Checked the board and BAM there it was burned just like in this video and for NO reason. Was running the thing and it worked fine last night... Then go to dry clothes in the morning.. Nothing happened. Turned on but heard only a relay click. The control board was working fine. So I soldered it back together and seems to work fine now. If happens again.. I'm installing an inline breaker.
I see this problem in many electronics that use 220v, hot tubs, stoves and dryers. I like to scrape the circuit board and run a jumper wire from the newly soldered relay contact, to make sure it will not happen again.
After installing the control board, I got L1 error . So the machine was running but no heat was coming . Please advice Dryer model number YWED9300VU0 Actual control board number :w10182366 As the web , this is the new number that replace the old number : WPW10174745
Thanks ! Great find! Funny thing about mass manufacturing, if one machine has an issue so do all the rest! If people are having problems soldering the connection, try scraping off the coating (like a varnish) that they put on the board to protect it. I went one step further and cleaned off the coating on the other end of the PC trace that the pin connected to and connected all 3 points with a small piece of wire, however if yours is like mine the PC trace isn't damaged and should work fine with a hot soldering iron and a little solder. Thanks again for the inspiration :)
I am going to add my name to the list. Re-soldered the pin and it works. I am not sure how long the fix will last. It at least made it through one dry cycle.
It lasted about a year. But only because we replaced the units. It was still working when we removed the unit from our laundry room. I didn’t know the guy that came and picked up the washer and dryer personally. Or I would be able to tell you exactly. Sorry. Wish I was more help.
I unsoldered the relay used my torch to heat my Razer blade and removed the relay housing to see why it shorted out. it's like a cars points system that actuates on a copper piece this is the what I found. the contact points wear down and causes the copper arm it's on to short against the lil metal housing around the small coil. lil bit of adjustment to get the gap set so it won't throw is easy . just bend the copper arm at the contact point a little bit and seems to clear up. it's definitely build to fail.
If you want a stronger connection, scrape the green coating off the trace. Then use a piece of small gauge copper wire to wrap around relay terminal. Run the wire down the scraped trace and solder the whole thing down. That will distribute the heat and amperage over a larger area.
I flipped my circuit board over, and it fried just like yours. My Whirlpool Duet Steam looks a little different, but the board is very simlar. How has this fix held up? I'm just concerned about its electrical safety, since this occured in the first place.
Ha! That's bad ass! I have a feeling I'm gonna have to do it right one day. Seadooman gave me some good info on replacement parts. Glad it helped you fix it!
Elijah Lucian I’m sorry. I’m not too familiar with the unit. I pretty much researched it for my specific problem. It was only by chance that I found the burned circuit. I’m sure if you do some searches eg: trouble codes and such. That could help. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
very good diagnose, but replace the relay thats why it got hot and melted solder contacts are burnt or dirty, new ones on ebay are 5$ if you can resolder, fix it right this way
Marin, This is a very common problem. You indeed fixed the problem! The problem was not the relay but the design engineering of the board. The real problem was the (2) dissimilar metals/materials of the relay (male) pin and the circuit board (female) printed run which was not heavy enough to handle the current flow through it over a prolonged usage. Congratulations Marin!
I got a f01 code but mine is a bravos.. same exact control board except my issue is the dryer works and all, but it has this steam function.. and the valve seems to be held open by the ctrl board that controls the water. Is the same kind of solenoid as an icemaker fridge.. my board is perfectly fine looking.. all relays check out fine and switch closed then back to n.o. Otherwise… but the damn thing just doesnt dry clothes because it keeps putting water on em.. now dont ask me why they make a dryer that has a water inlet… i mean a steam dryer , doesnt a dryer do that anyway with the wey clothes inside ?? Friggn women im telling ya.. spends 950$ on a dryer that wets your clothes.. fuck sake..
Im a 32 year Whirlpool Tech. Encouraging people to take their life in their hands is really irresponsible. Wonder how many forgot to unplug before they grabbed the board ? You never hear back from them. Guys, call your local multi year trained professional. You give the general public too much responsibility. Most cant tell you what one item on the board is. Some of the crowd are just plain stupid too. Take all that into account. Next time you recommend millions of people to touch an appliance that has a 30 or 40 amp cord plugged. YOU NEVER MENTIONED, hey UNPLUG FIRST. You opened yourself to multiple lawsuits by posting this. Your an idiot.
@@chuckthompson4224 An idiot would be someone with mechanical skills to pay an ass hole like you a couple hundred to fix something they can do themselves.
@@chuckthompson4224 Hey Chuck. Why does Whirlpool sell this Chinese crap circuit? And what exactly is causing this? Cold soldier joints from the factory?
@@neemer32 I took mine apart like you showed putting it back together, and I didn't have a burned one like yours did. I'm not a computer wiz by far, but I could have done what you showed. Any other ideas that, would have caused the red light to come on? I'm pretty great at DIY stuff, but no clue on what made my dryer do this considering it doesnt have a blow out like yours. Rewatching your video, I noticed that, you have a lot of big bubbles on the reverse side of your mother board where mine does not. I have more little ones, and ones bent. Could that be something? Should I go and solder each one to make them have bigger bubbles on them? Please and thanks. Also. Thanks for the first reply back as well. Most don't.
Nrfa I’m sorry. I don’t know. As cool as it is that I stumbled upon this fix. Sadly, I’m not an electrical guy. I would guess that you have a hard part on the board that is burned out. Rather than a circuit. Wish I was more help.
Thanks Jammin! Well, I believe this video was made around 1 September. It hasn't missed a beat since.... I guess it's safe to say it's going to last a while.
6 years later and your video is still helping people. Thanks for sharing! This saved me big time. Every place I looked online says the control board is discontinued.
Glad I could help!
Nice video--same burn, same repair--board is $350 new (approx) so this was very, very helpful. Thank you sir
Bruh... AWESOME work! Tested all my parts and came to the control panel. Saw your video and when I pulled mine... same thing, same spot, but mine is way worse. Looks like something exploded under there. Will repair and I'm sure it will work. Mine is completely disconnected from the board.
Thank you very much for this. I was about to thraw my dryer when I came across your video. I had the exact same issue. My dryer is back on...
Yep, mine looked exactly like that. Soldering now. Thanks so much
Bought a control board online and verified the control board was causing the issue, lo and behold I popped the board out and I had the same burn mark. Thank You!
Thanks so much! I had ordered a new board on Amazon for $200. 20 minutes later saw your video, and tried the fix. Works like a charm and was able to cancel the order before it shipped. You rock!
I was getting an F04 E04 error code on my duet WED94HEX dryer after doing the diagnostic. (with machine on standby press any 3 buttons consecutively 3 times within 8 seconds) F4E4 means L2 LINE VOLTAGE ERROR. check the relay connection on the ccu board. check power, etc. I never suspected relay connection on solder board. after watching this video I saved $300 and the dryer is working fine. Thank you so much...
Hey, you just helped me save $200 on a new board. Only spent $7 on flux and a little brush. We are both heros now
Thank you SO SO much!! My husband just got our dryer working again thanks to you!!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
🙌🏻 God bless you. I watched countless TH-cam videos and spent several hours trying to figure out what’s wrong with my dryer. After watching this video I checked my control board and wouldn’t you know it… a burnt circuit and black spot on the housing identical to yours. Thank you for making this video. I was about to throw in the towel and just buy a new dryer.
Thank you, worked for me! Hope it holds up.
Nice video Mr man thank you just what i needed be blessed
I don’t know if you will see this but I did the same to my whirlpool duet 5 years ago. Still working 😅
Saved me also! Thanks for posting this.
Two paid repairs have been saved for this video. Don't forget checking the burnt points and make the right bridge. Its simple and saved money. "New" board is $500 value and it had the same problem. And then, it was fixed using the same technique for all PCBA boards. Enjoy the repair despite the downtime for your wife.
Dude, you just saved me over $200 bucks -- and the headache of waiting for the part to come in! I never would've thought to just re-solder the burnt-out connections on the back, but it worked like a charm. Very little cussing, too! I'm with you, though. Who knows how long before it burns out again?
You Rock, Marin!
@Sam Abbott you are the man!! You fixed it! I just passed on what I found. You are welcome! Thanks for the bad ass comment!
Worked great on my 2014 Maytag Model MED3000BW0 - exact place and issue, used your fix and now back in business - Thanks :)
Thank you for being unselfish and sharing this fix with us. You are awesome! And you saved me over $300...I feel like I owe you. Thanks so much!
Perfect!! Happy to help! Congratulations on completing the fix!
Marin, Thank you so much for a great video. Your simple fix saved me $350 for a new board and my wife was able to dry her clothes the same night. Just like you said in your video, there was a burn mark on the plastic case and the soldered joint had disintegrated. I resoldered it and voila, it ran like new. Thanks again for your helpful video. You rock.
You rock this video and another helped out. Saved me from buying a board as soldering was the trick. Tested with a multi-meter that there was a bad connection on the trace to the post that was burnt. crapped the trace to make sure there was a connection. I almost added a new wire to replace the trace (maybe I should have). But it seemed to work. Had this not worked I would have order that control board.
Awesome! You sound like the kinda guy that would’ve found the problem without me. Haha. Glad it worked out for you!
Awesome video. Just did that myself to whirlpool duet gew9250pw0. Circuit board was little different as expected. Everything else spot on. Same burn mark. Easy solder. Your information made it so simple and saved me money. Thank you sir.
Add me to the list of people that saved money with this repair. I had never soldered before, so put on way too heavy. After a couple tries and a quick search on soldering, realized more isn't necessarily better when soldering. Finally got it right on third try. Thanks!
Great Video Marin !!! After searching numerous sites on the internet I was able to narrow the problem down to the control board. I was just about to buy a new one when I decided to google the net one last time and found your video. It took me 3 times to get the soldering right but on the 3rd try it worked like a charm. As so many others noted below, you also saved me several hundred dollars. This isn't the first time I've gone to the internet to find a 'fix' but this was definitely the most rewarding one. I especially thank you for taking the time to make this video and to share it with others.
timmy d that’s great!!! Ours worked until the drum failed. I should have pulled the circuit board and sold it on eBay. Haha!! You’re welcome! Thanks for the props!!
I fixed mine and lasted 5 years and now I have to do it again
I am totally not handy when it comes to fixing things, but things were just as you described. I soldered it and so far it has been working like a charm. Thanks a lot.
Thanks you very much, I have the same issue, going to solder it in a few. Question its been 8 years, how long did it last (that you know of [assuming you replaced the dryer after 8 years])
You’re welcome. I hope it works. It lasted until til I removed it and sent it to where washers and dryers go to die. Haha. Crazy that it lasted so long. Good luck bud!
Marin Parra--yo da man. Saved me 250 on a new board. Cheers fella!!
Thanks for the tip. My duet washer and dryer i picked up off the side of the road for free. No Joke! The washer smelled a little funky, but was able to clean it up. The dryer didn't work. I tested all the sensors and fuses but everything tested fine. I checked the top of the circuit board for bulging caps for burned parts/traces. I searched youtube for my model number and found your video. I fixed it in 10 min. It came to life. Thanks a ton!
vetsen ha! That's awesome! Thanks for the love!
It got hot because of the amount of current, and possibly a poor solder joint with high resistance.
I sugest that in addition to what you did, Run a short little jumper wire that follows the trace to the other two through hole solder joints. The current will now be able to flow through the trace and the jumper wire with less resistance and less heat generated. You should do the same for the other side of the relay.
I thank you.. You just saved me $250
very welcome!!
Thank you very much Marin!!! Like so many others, I just saved about $350 (parts & labor)! Never did this before, but for about $25 dollars I bought the soldering iron and solder at my local Ace Hardware (they're great!) and within the hour it was done! Again, thanks Marin!!!!
Replaced it the relay, it worked , then unplugged it to move ot and the code came back 🙃
praise the Lord for this video. My board was burnt awfully bad and I did what you said and now I have a dryer. thank you so much!
It’s a bandaid repair. Inside the relay the points started arcing and pitting causing the heat to unsolder the connection. The relay will need to be changed soon.
Used this fix a couple years back and now I think the relay has finally crapped out. Heat stays on even in air cycle.
Well done Mr. Hero. You allow us ordinary men to be just as heroic in our own little worlds.
Hoping this fix lasts for at least a week while I find something cheaper than $305.49!!!
Vetse Bojs cheaper than A new control board would involve wind and a close line. Just replace the damn board.
chilly willy I was actually able to find something cheaper - $250. Not exactly piece of cake, but the fact that I'm not paying what every electronic store around town says it's worth, is satisfaction enough
Vetse Bojs Well done!
I just did this and it is running again. worst soldering job ever. I did not have a way to sand off the old flux easily. Thanks!
That was exactly my problem - soldering the relay connection worked great - dryer is now working again. Thanks Marin for posting this video and saving me and others expensive repair bills!
Just happened across this while troubleshooting the control board issue my dryer is having. Makes perfect sense. Glad to see someone else had the same idea and it worked for them. Also good for narrowing down the issue lol
worked for me!!! sweet. thx.
I thought it was the fuse a first but thanks to this video and the George Vassallo video got this done in like 30 min, with the same soldering problem, thank you very much
You just saved me $150-230 bucks. Thank you!
Just had the same thing happen to my son's dryer and found the same burned connection as you did before finding this video. However, the overheating had not only melted the solder joint but sparking had burned away some of the copper foil. Knowing that the heat was probably caused by worn contacts in the relay which caused excessive heat which then overheated and melted out the solder, I ordered another relay for $10 on eBay (Amazon also had them). Replacement of the relay was uneventful but I had to solder a short wire from the relay contact to the burned copper circuit trace. Reinstalled the board and the dryer works fine once again. A little more expensive fix but I'm sure it'll last longer.
Hey thanks from Caracas , Venezuela. Just repair my dryer and save lots of money and time.
Hello and thank you for the video. I had exactly the same issue and burn on the same location on the board but was able to source a replacement board locally for a low price. I and am now considering replacing the relay assembly because what I noticed is that the interior light went out about a month or before the board ultimately failed. One the new board was installed however the interior light started to function again..I really have to shake my head because a light switch is what is taking down an entire dryer and most people are buying new on the idea the main board failed....
Mine had the control dark, display showed no signs of life, but the light came on inside the dryer when the door was opened. I found another video that said to hold the end of cycle button for 3 seconds. This turned on the locked light. I was amazed, I held the same button for 3 seconds and it came back to life and started. So try this first.
Happened to our Sunday morning. Bummed. Went to TH-cam and found your video. Our blown in the sam spot. fixed in 15 minutes, save me $300+. Keep up the good work.
thanks, saved me a grip of money. great video!!!
Nice! Mission accomplished. Thanks for the props!
Almost dropped 170 on a new board........I will take this fix all day, temporary or not lol......THANKS !!
I have a GEW9250PW1 that doesn't light up at all, nothing. Not sure which board would be at fault. The thermo fuse is shot and one is on the way. Any ideas?
I’m sorry bud. I am far from a technician. I don’t even have the unit anymore. Hopefully you can figure something out. Good luck
@@neemer32 what symptoms did you have prior to your repair? Was it 100% dead or did it light up?
@@SteveV2023 I don’t recall exactly. I used the internet and diagnostic tools from different forums. I think it had power just no operation. Wish I could remember. Sorry bud.
Bought a soldering kit, and fixed our Whirlpool Duet dryer!!! Yay!!! Thank you 🙏🏼 😁
Worked for me! My explosion was on the neighboring circuit but works the same, many many thanks! So happy to not have to call the appliance repair guy.
You the man! I had the exact same circuit burn on mine. Quick Fix! Thanks
J3205F you’re welcome J! I’m just an average man with an average life. ☺️
Followed steps and the dryer started. Now to try a load. Thanks!
Just watched the video. I had the same problem on our Kenmore Oasis Elite gas dryer. Same burn spot. Spent $20 on soldering iron and solder. Never soldered before but just dapped some on and put it all back together. Dryer is working. Hope it last. Thanks for posting.
My control board has a burn spot in the exact same place as yours. I put a good bubble of solder where the burn was and unfortunately it didn't fix the problem. When I hit the start button there's still a clicking sound coming the part of the control board where the burn mark is on the other side. Any advice or is it just time for a new control board?
I’m sorry. I am really unsure of what you would do at this point. I believe that I (as well as a lot of other folks) got lucky. I wish I had some good advice.
@@neemer32 Thanks for getting back to me. I've ordered a new control board. Fingers crossed it solves the problem.
@@brennanlynch12 you are welcome! Definitely want to know if it fixes it.
Thanks for posting this! $10 and one blister but saved me a couple hundred bucks!
Dude you're the man, I went through everything in this dryer and this was the last thing I checked one circuit not complete. Thanks bro
Just did this and my dryer is up and running!! THANK YOU!!
Before i saw your video, i tried it last night, in my case, i din't do it that cleanly, the solder didn't stick correctly to the board, and when i turned it on and pushed the button, the board sparked and popped. So i am waiting for the replacement. Next time, i would do a better job. Thanks. Be careful all.
I would love to see that OEM card before the blow out because literally thousands of people had this exact same problem. They should get a class action if they have not already.
Mine just did the same. Cheap chinese board. P/N W10249825 REV B
Same Dryer and same exact pin burned on ours after 5 years of great use. I just went through all the sensors and tested everything.. No problems.. Checked the board and BAM there it was burned just like in this video and for NO reason. Was running the thing and it worked fine last night... Then go to dry clothes in the morning.. Nothing happened. Turned on but heard only a relay click. The control board was working fine. So I soldered it back together and seems to work fine now. If happens again.. I'm installing an inline breaker.
I see this problem in many electronics that use 220v, hot tubs, stoves and dryers. I like to scrape the circuit board and run a jumper wire from the newly soldered relay contact, to make sure it will not happen again.
How long did it last?
After installing the control board, I got L1 error . So the machine was running but no heat was coming . Please advice
Dryer model number YWED9300VU0
Actual control board number :w10182366
As the web , this is the new number that replace the old number : WPW10174745
Yep same issue on the one I had. Thanks!
Mucho thanks, "Try and Fix It Guy". You made me the "Hero for the Day'.
Thanks ! Great find! Funny thing about mass manufacturing, if one machine has an issue so do all the rest! If people are having problems soldering the connection, try scraping off the coating (like a varnish) that they put on the board to protect it. I went one step further and cleaned off the coating on the other end of the PC trace that the pin connected to and connected all 3 points with a small piece of wire, however if yours is like mine the PC trace isn't damaged and should work fine with a hot soldering iron and a little solder. Thanks again for the inspiration :)
I am going to add my name to the list. Re-soldered the pin and it works. I am not sure how long the fix will last. It at least made it through one dry cycle.
I'm curious, how long did this fix last for you?
It lasted about a year. But only because we replaced the units. It was still working when we removed the unit from our laundry room. I didn’t know the guy that came and picked up the washer and dryer personally. Or I would be able to tell you exactly. Sorry. Wish I was more help.
I unsoldered the relay used my torch to heat my Razer blade and removed the relay housing to see why it shorted out. it's like a cars points system that actuates on a copper piece this is the what I found. the contact points wear down and causes the copper arm it's on to short against the lil metal housing around the small coil. lil bit of adjustment to get the gap set so it won't throw is easy . just bend the copper arm at the contact point a little bit and seems to clear up. it's definitely build to fail.
Josh harlan Can you make a video to show us how
Bend the arms which way?
Great fix! worked for me too. Back in business in less than half an hour. Thank you for posting this.
Our whirlpool did the exact same thing just soldered the the resistor & put it back together it fired right up thanks hope it holds for awhile
E95 error on my Kenmore dryer totally fixed by this method- thanks for the great video!
Mine looked exactly like that. Did some soldering and back and business! Thank you very much!
If you want a stronger connection, scrape the green coating off the trace. Then use a piece of small gauge copper wire to wrap around relay terminal. Run the wire down the scraped trace and solder the whole thing down. That will distribute the heat and amperage over a larger area.
Thanks for the video! Saved me some money. Quick fix. Appreciate your time.
Thanks so much for this video! It was exactly what was wrong with our dryer! Saved us a ton of money!!
Worked like a charm. Incredible. I hope it lasts. Thanks for the video.
I flipped my circuit board over, and it fried just like yours. My Whirlpool Duet Steam looks a little different, but the board is very simlar. How has this fix held up? I'm just concerned about its electrical safety, since this occured in the first place.
PJ Jackson It worked for a solid 18 months and then I sold the unit along with the washing machine. Zero complaints after the fix
@@neemer32 Wonderful. I'll warm the iron! My lady will wake to a working dryer tomorrow. Appreciate your help brother.
It worked on my Maytag Epic Z! Thanks for posting this!
took mine apart and same problem, soldered her up and you would never know she was broke. I hope it lasts cuz I don't want to buy a board... thanx
Worked for me, as well. Hopefully it holds up, but will buy the relay if it doesn't. Thanks!
Pretty common deal here... I resoldered mine and replaced the thermal fuse and voila!... it works.
Just did the same fix to my Kenmore Dryer Model 110.67032601! Thanks!
Ha! That's bad ass! I have a feeling I'm gonna have to do it right one day. Seadooman gave me some good info on replacement parts. Glad it helped you fix it!
Dano, is it still working for you? I have same dryer going to try this fix soon.
what about the front panel? My issue seems to be with the electronic control panel on the front. it's beeping at random
Elijah Lucian I’m sorry. I’m not too familiar with the unit. I pretty much researched it for my specific problem. It was only by chance that I found the burned circuit. I’m sure if you do some searches eg: trouble codes and such. That could help. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
So I did that as well as check the fuse down below. Still getting the F01 code. Any thoughts on what to do next?
I got nothing.....Replace the mother board? Prolly fried. Sorry man.
very good diagnose, but replace the relay thats why it got hot and melted solder contacts are burnt or dirty, new ones on ebay are 5$ if you can resolder, fix it right this way
Ahhh.... I see. Ok. Will do...thank you! We have been lucky. It hasn't missed a beat! I'll look on eBay.
Marin, This is a very common problem. You indeed fixed the problem! The problem was not the relay but the design engineering of the board. The real problem was the (2) dissimilar metals/materials of the relay (male) pin and the circuit board (female) printed run which was not heavy enough to handle the current flow through it over a prolonged usage. Congratulations Marin!
Thanks, you saved me 300 bucks. Good stuff!
You saved me $303 (cost of new board) .
I got a f01 code but mine is a bravos.. same exact control board except my issue is the dryer works and all, but it has this steam function.. and the valve seems to be held open by the ctrl board that controls the water. Is the same kind of solenoid as an icemaker fridge.. my board is perfectly fine looking.. all relays check out fine and switch closed then back to n.o. Otherwise… but the damn thing just doesnt dry clothes because it keeps putting water on em.. now dont ask me why they make a dryer that has a water inlet… i mean a steam dryer , doesnt a dryer do that anyway with the wey clothes inside ?? Friggn women im telling ya.. spends 950$ on a dryer that wets your clothes.. fuck sake..
The control sensor says sensing that’s it I don’t know if it’s the motor or the circuit board
And it’s not giving me a error code
Thank You. It fixed my dryer too!
I just did exactly what was described in the video. I soldered it and put it back together again, and now it doesn`t even start....
Sorry man. I wish it was a definite fix. We've been lucky. Ours is a year older and still working.
Im a 32 year Whirlpool Tech.
Encouraging people to take their life in their hands is really irresponsible. Wonder how many forgot to unplug before they grabbed the board ? You never hear back from them.
Guys, call your local multi year trained professional.
You give the general public too much responsibility. Most cant tell you what one item on the board is. Some of the crowd are just plain stupid too.
Take all that into account. Next time you recommend millions of people to touch an appliance that has a 30 or 40 amp cord plugged.
YOU NEVER MENTIONED, hey UNPLUG FIRST.
You opened yourself to multiple lawsuits by posting this.
Your an idiot.
@@chuckthompson4224 An idiot would be someone with mechanical skills to pay an ass hole like you a couple hundred to fix something they can do themselves.
@@chuckthompson4224 Hey Chuck. Why does Whirlpool sell this Chinese crap circuit? And what exactly is causing this? Cold soldier joints from the factory?
Did you use flux, when you did this? Thank you. Nice work. Lots of happy and positive feedbacks from others.
Nrfa I did! It was a pice if cake! Thanks for the comment!
@@neemer32 I took mine apart like you showed putting it back together, and I didn't have a burned one like yours did. I'm not a computer wiz by far, but I could have done what you showed. Any other ideas that, would have caused the red light to come on? I'm pretty great at DIY stuff, but no clue on what made my dryer do this considering it doesnt have a blow out like yours. Rewatching your video, I noticed that, you have a lot of big bubbles on the reverse side of your mother board where mine does not. I have more little ones, and ones bent. Could that be something? Should I go and solder each one to make them have bigger bubbles on them? Please and thanks. Also. Thanks for the first reply back as well. Most don't.
Nrfa I’m sorry. I don’t know. As cool as it is that I stumbled upon this fix. Sadly, I’m not an electrical guy. I would guess that you have a hard part on the board that is burned out. Rather than a circuit. Wish I was more help.
OMRON G8P-1A4P 12VDC SPST this is part I used in my control board on ebay I got two for 8$
Same part is fried on my board. How did your fix hold up?
seadooman o I have the same problem with my Maytag but have to. Order the whole control panel How’s the relay work
How long did the repair last? Great tip
How long did your repair work and have you replaced the entire board yet?
Neil Parker it lasted almost 22 months. Just replaced both units. It was time.
Thanks Jammin! Well, I believe this video was made around 1 September. It hasn't missed a beat since.... I guess it's safe to say it's going to last a while.
I got a dryer right now exactly the same thing burned spot. Time for a soldering tool