Easiest Way to Print With Clay
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มี.ค. 2019
- UPDATE (Printing with Peanut Butter & Nutella): • SUCCESS!! 3D Printing ...
I always wanted to print with clay because I love the look of those thick layers being laid down. This is my attempt at making a cheap and simple diy, open source clay/paste extruder for any 3D printer or CNC machine.
The files can be downloaded here:
www.thingiverse.com/der_coco/...
While you're already surfing the web, let me hit you up with another wave:
/ der_coco
/ cocrijnen - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The clay may have been sandy on purpose. Sand and crushed brick/fired ceramic (called grog) is often added to clay to reduce the risk of cracking during firing. I imagine it reduces cost as well.
Look up "coiling", it is an ancient pottery technique used before the potter's wheel and for ceramics too big for a potter's wheel. It is basically hand 3D printing, you take a 'rod' of clay, coil it on a table to form the base, then slowly put one on top of another to form the walls. Also look up 'slipcasting', it allows a gypsum plaster mold to make larger scale production possible. I'm not aware of anyone who 3D prints with gypsum plaster but you could print a plastic model, make a gypsum plaster mold from that, then cast something from the mold.
Thanks for the info! "The coarse particles open the green clay body to allow gases to escape."(Wikipedia). That makes a lot of sense
Great to see a DIY version of this for small scale printers. There are a few scara type setups that used a scaled up version of this so that you can maintain close to a regular clay consistency, hard to replicate that at this scale with the weight involved, but great to see someone proving it could get there!
This channel in general is some quality content! Wish I had found it earlier. Hope you get the viewer counts you deserve!
Thanks man! And I'm getting so many views and nice comments... Couldn't ask for more! I think those depressing 5 views/video with 0 comments times are finally over :)
Supernice dude! Looking forward to part 2.
Amazing idea. Can't wait to see where you go with this.
Honestly genius and very creative😄 seriously deserves a follow🙏🏽 hop you expand your ideas into the consumer market place and invent something amazing
Aw thanks a lot :)
I love the outcome!
Thanks man! Glad you commented. Otherwise I might not have found your channel for a long time!
The most successful clay extruder till date. You will get better control with a geared extruder system. It will increase torque and flow rate control.
I wonder if a stainless steel cookie press would work as a substitute for your plastic syringe. The tips on the cookie press would be interchangeable for different extrusion sizes. The main problem seems to be the low torque from your stepper motor resulting in a lack of extrusion force - you may have to add a gear ratio to the top of your extruder, whichever body you use. It is a very interesting video though, and I can't wait for part two. Good work!
This is superb!
I have to build my own paste extruder for my grad school thesis work. Here are a few notes that I have that may help others in the future. First of all there's a chemical called darvan 7 which increases the fluidity of the clay (deflocculation). If you keep adding water to the clay it will have cracking and strength issues due to shrinkage during water loss. Secondly as others have said, adding cellulose fibers (e.g. egg cartons in blender works well) will improve the working properties of the clay. Lastly as others have also said, is better to start from a dry mix of clay and then add all of the extra ingredients that you need and the exact amount of water that you need. Wedging it or running it through a pug mill is also important to remove air bubbles and to increase plasticity but do not over wedge the clay.
I was thinking about this
you are my hero
yeah handsup for you
really great video man
i want to make it but have no idea about how to built extruder
to use clay in as extrusion material
thanks again man
Good job! It is very interesting.
Awesome Constantijn
Better results are with the pushing auger, which is connected to the extruder servomotor. The auger can be printed, for example, from ABS, including a conical nozzle. The clay can be supplied continuously (the clay is pressurized only between the nozzle and the auger). It responds well to retractions, etc. It works like a filament, so nothing changes on both software and hardware. The print quality is excellent - the product can theoretically be fired immediately in the oven. ))
USE Vegetable OIL to soften! And strengthen with paper fibers .. Its how potters do it
Brilliant.
An interesting successful/failure. Did you have plans to cure the clay? I would think steel rods would be more suited, and easily changed, for this type of application. Keep up the great content!!
If you use a geared stepper, you might be able to go down to a finer nozzle size. I'm very curious to see how far you can push it
Good job bro
As a potter, if you wedge your clay it will soften up a bit. But I'd like to see you try printing with some slip. This way, you can buy powdered clay, mix with water with an immersion blender to the consistency you want. You can probably still print with some really really wet stuff.
Couple of ideas to look into: 1. Can you print onto a plaster bat (esentially a rectangular slab of plaster). This will help wick moisture away from the clay and perhaps help firm it up more quickly. and 2. Consider using what is known as paper clay. This has cellulose fibers mixed in, and has a few advantages - It doesn't shrink as much when it dries, and also you can add wet clay directly to dry clay. This may make it possible to print in stages. Just spitballin here.
Cool video though.
Thanks for sharing 💕 you are awesome 👏
What about using hot air to dry the lower layers before the upper layers are applied?
Bro we are from india..can you tell us what are the components you used to make this..we are currently doing a project it needs this complete setup..so kindly help us bro..thank you
Hello there! That's a very nice project. I'm creating my own Paste 3D printer and for that reason I don't have connected any heat elements like the bed and the thermistors. I'm using repetier host to send the commands and everything works fine for the X, Y and Z axis but the stepper motor for the extruder I have isn't working. Do you have to configure something in the code Marlin or wire something in the Ramps to get the extruder work? (I already tried connecting the stepper motor to the driver of the Z axis, which has a screw too, and it works so I know the extruder's stepper motor is okay) I'll be very grateful if you answer! It is for my graduation project.
Besides, I also have a question about the flow rate. Because you're saying that the amount of mass that will be displaced corresponds to the volume of the Syringe, but isn't it affected by the diameter of the tip of the syringe?
Hey, thanks for watching! Yes you will have to change something in marlin. Marlin is usually set up with "PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION" on. You'll have to turn that off. I forgot to mention it because I always disable it from the get go.
If you don't want to change the firmware, you can also disable it with Gcode: M302 P1, followed by M500 if you want to save it to eeprom.
more info here: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M302.html
@@pukgt7682 The flow rate is dependent on the diameter of the syringe itself, provided you're not changing the pitch of the lead screw or the speed of the motor. The speed and extrusion thickness is dependent on the diameter of the tip. Part of that can be explained by the venturi effect. Good luck!
Hey constantjin i am new to paste extrusion based printing. I have a modified version of your design and it works great. Thanks a ton for that. I am in Bio 3D printing research and i need your Cura print settings for this model because my models are discontinuous and there are some many options i have no idea what to tweak. So please can you help me out??
Hey Tanmay! This video is already quite a long time ago and I put the original extruder back, after which I changed quite some settings which I dont recall. My best bet would be to see if the motor is losing steps and if thats not the case, try increasing the flow rate.
Love your videos! I also like the music you play in the background. Where did you find it?
Thanks! I get the music from the paid subscription service called Epidemic Sound. Its quite expensive but its well worth it not having to deal with copyright claims ;)
Use air dry clay. It starts setting up as soon as it’s exposed to air. It to can be “watered” down to achieve ideal viscosity.
Great tutorial and really nice job! I'm trying to recreate the process and was wondering what the exact connections are between the Arduino, breadboard, and motor. It would be much appreciated!
Thank you :) The internet is totally saturated with that information. Just search for "connect stepper to Arduino".
Use hot air, to dry the clay faster while printing
Yes it helps.
Also, alcohol.
Or in a vacuum chamber! :D
Great video!
Super cool project. Maybe you can prevent the printed structure from sacking by applying hot/warm air all the time, drying the outside of model for additional strength.
Thanks! I'm pretty sure that that's not going to work because heat decreases the viscosity of water...
@@ConstantijnC Viscosity of water? I don't really get it. I mean you can try to dry the already printed model with warm air, so its not so soft anymore and can support the layers to come.
@@the_real_foamidable Water gets more "runny" when it is heated up. Therefore it's better to let it dry in a cooler environment. That's my untested opinion however.
www.engineersedge.com/physics/water__density_viscosity_specific_weight_13146.htm
@@ConstantijnC I didn't thought of that. But the clay with less water (due to vaporization) would be less viscous overall. Maybe there is a sweet spot. Since the print is very slow there is a lot of time to evaporate water. You could also slow down the printing to support it. I would like to see you print a vase or a cup. Some terrain relieves would be cool to, there are a lot of heightmap of countries available online. But I digress :-).
Very inspirational project that is.
Grüße aus Weimar.
@@the_real_foamidable You're right. I could print very slow and try to dry the clay while its printing. Somehow that idea just doesn't do it for me... I did some very promising prints with a smaller nozzle and a different medium. It's kind of funny and it worked great. Can't wait to share that with you guys :)
The idea of terrain relieves sounds really cool! That should work well because you don't have to build it up as high as a vase for example. The video is already 90% filmed but maybe I'll still add it ;)
Grüße aus dem Freiburger Umkreis!
Do you think I can install this extruder on a printer like alfawise u20 or ender 3 ?
Sure! You'll just need to design a new mount for it
Wouldn't a bowden type extruder with a higher torque motor be a better idee? You could use a bigger reservar and a hosepipe with a 3D printed nozle as a bowden tube. And letting the print dry after a certain hight could prevent it from deforming. But then you wold loose a lot of clay inside the tube an there are probably other issues I don't see. Did someone tryed something like this?
Yes I think a higher torque motor or higher reduction gearing is necessary. There are also clay printers with a "bowden-style" extruder. The issue with that is, that the resistance is even higher so you either need more torque or you need to pressurize the clay with compressed air. I didn't want to go that route, because I wanted to have the design challenge to make it mechanically very simple and to also only use cheap, easy to use parts that everyone in the 3d printing community is already familiar with. I guess I didn't fully reach my design goal but it was a fun project nonetheless 😊
I also later learned that there are certain stabilizers for clay which you can mix in to make it better for printing. That would probably also really help.
Which lead size did you select for the lead screw?
Heated enclosure? Would that work
Ich weiß nicht, wie stark man den Luftdruck senken müsste, damit Wasser Raumtemperatur verdunstet, aber es wäre eine Möglichkeit den Ton recht flüssig zu halten und im Druckraum für die Verdunstung des Wassers zu sorgen, damit die Festigkeit einigermaßen schnell hergestellt wird. Sicherlich nicht ganz einfach die Aufgabe, aber ein Versuch könnte es wert sein
aber ist sicher ein gutes Setup für Schokolade, braucht die Spritze halt ne Heizung.
Aber sehr schön gelöst
Is it used for sculpting ?
hey can you provide me the configuration.h file for this clay setting I am working on similar project
Hey, didn’t make any changes in the firmware. Assuming you’re modifying an already working printer, it’s all done via the slicer settings which I’ve shown how to figure out in the video. Good luck!
Interesting view. What was your layer thickness and speed in the end? Any other alterations beside the ratio and the nozzle diameter that requires changing in the software?
I don't remember exactly, but I went with a layer thickness of around 1/2 of the nozzle diameter. I also had to go way down with the speed and went with around 10mm/s, just to be safe. Mainly because setting everything up takes a lot of time and makes a huge mess, so I didn't want to risk the prints to fail.
Then I only had to turn off z homing and bed leveling. I just homed z by hand.
@@ConstantijnC thanks for the note. you didn't increase the power of the stepper motor to squeeze more clay out?
@@MJ-iw8hi I would have, but the stepper driver was already close to overheating :D
@@ConstantijnC I see. Do you happen to know the current Vref setting and the configuration of your stepper motor? Just out of interest to know the current power it has to squeeze clay out
@@MJ-iw8hi I'm sorry, I don't. I went by feel and I've since reverted the printer back to printing normal filament where I also decreased the current again...
trying to build the same kinda printer . where do i find the code . i find codes for scara printers . please help me with the code for this
Hey, it's just the normal marlin firmware for 3d printers. You can find it at marlinfw.org/
try it with plaster or drywall mud
Can clay be used for 3D printing houses to?
Sure!
Oh man! This video is like watching clay dry. Bah dum tsss! I'm kidding. Great video. I might just buy a 3d printer that actually prints clay instead of going through this pain. Thanks for all your hard work.
really nice project! do you plan on improving it?
Thanks! I already improved it a lot by creating a smaller nozzle. You'll see what I mean in the next video :) I currently can't think of anything else to make it better, besides using the compressed air/auger combination. Do you have any ideas to improve the current design?
@@ConstantijnC How does the clay dry? Do you need to treat it somehow? Maybe you can help it 'cure' the same way the fans help the plastic extrusion printer. That would allow you to make taller models
@@gcm4312 Raw clay dries without treatment, but it takes a long time. Those small prints took about two days to dry. I'm pretty sure that blowing air over it will basically do nothing :/
@@ConstantijnC do you think heat would help? Maybe a small infrared lamp/heat lamp
this is how all the ancient buildings were built
I pinched the thousandth like! :)
what is the thread dimension of the lead screw?
if I am not wrong is it T8?
18.20 - you mean Archimedes screw. Nice video!
Well indirectly I do, however not really. An Archimedes' screw is a certain type of auger screw. An Archimedes' screw might work, but I had those augers in mind that exert pressure into the substrate in order to drive out any trapped air. And thanks for watching!
Hi Constantin.... Hast du mal darüber nachgedacht den Ton mit anderen fluiden in der Viskosität zu steigern? Ich denke da gerade an Alkohol. In der Tube und mit Ton sollte das gut Flüssig sein. Wenn es dann in einem gut beheizten und belüfteten Bauraum gedruckt wird sollte der Alkohol schnell verdunsten und dem Ton festigkeit geben. wenn man dann noch langsam und flach druckt sollten sich doch einige Probleme die du beschreibst schnell lösen. So oder so ein mega gutes Video. Danke für die viele Arbeit. Abo ist raus.
Hey Christoph, danke! Und coole Idee. Da hab ich tatsächlich noch nicht dran gedacht. Kann ich mir aber sehr gut vorstellen dass das helfen würde. Es gibt so wie ich das verstanden habe auch additive, welche den Ton besser extrudierbar machen. Ich habe mich aber seitdem nicht mehr echt damit befasst. Vielleicht komme ich in Zukunft nochmal auf die Thematik zurück. Jetzt hab ich aber erstmal genug andere Projekte auf dem Teller 😊 Die Alkohol Idee behalte ich aber auf jeden Fall im Hinterkopf!
@@ConstantijnC Soo habe mal mit einer befreundeten Künstlerin gesprochen. Also die Idee zu nutzen was da ist ist eine gute. Heißt: Ton mit einer leicht verdunstenden Flüssigkeit vermischen bsp. Alkohol. Das beheizbare Druckbett. auf hitze bringen (60 Grad ) und tatsächlich mit Cold/Hotend drucken bei ca 77 Grad (Siedepunk 78,3) damit es beim verlassen enorm geneigt ist zu verdunsten statt zu verkochen. 1,5mm Düse und langsam drucken bzw. minimale Layertime entsprechend setzen das der Ton Zeit hat eine Primärstabilität zu entwickeln. Zudem wäre es sicher interesant den Slicer so zu konfigurieren das er dem Material entsprechend arbeitet. Wenn du wieder an das Thema ran willst meld dich gerne vielleicht hatte ich dann Zeit einiges davon zu testen oder weiß schon mehr. Mfg
This is the clay.
Idk but If my Anet Works I dont want do to this i think its destroying My Ultrabase and its to Big
It is kind of big, but if it's just because of the ultrabase, you can just put something over it. I used paper but I think parchment paper is better because it won't deform when it gets wet.
Just tip when you use clay and you want to make wet it better use dry clay
PLA OR ABS?
I printed in PLA but anything would work
I think you need some mechanical advantage to push the clay
there may be harmful metal in clay when you consume it. It is not a good idea when you don't know what material you are getting.
I licked it. I didn’t slather it on my sandwich 😉
Any one do for cr10 mount
Why not use the opportunity to learn how to design one? :)
@@ConstantijnC I have try to learn fusion and 1 online but I have no lucky on it
In the US, it's called "bleeding" your brakes, as in bleeding air from the brake system.
For some reason, only now have I realized that this expression is incredibly confusing and nearly nonsensical. It makes more (than zero) sense if you do not use a vacuum and only work the brake pedal and 'bleeder' screw.
ahh yes now I remember the expression! I flushed the entire system so the conventional way of pumping the brake lever didn't work as there was too much compressible air in the system. Huge mess. Wouldn't recommend.
@@ConstantijnC You can run a tube from the bleeder screw to a jar of brake fluid, so whenever it 'inhales' it only sucks up brake fluid. But I would recommend a vacuum anyway, because some brake designs trap air so well it just won't dislodge without disassembly.
@@superdupergrover9857 I tried that but the brake lines of my motorbike snake up and down on a nice detour all across the frame. Only after sucking the entire system half a dozen times over would the last bubble free itself. It was a massacre. Dot4 splashing everywhere, protective gloves tearing up, sun beaming down on my black tshirt. Glad I'm still here to tell the story ;)
Bigger motor and denser clay.
Yes. And a stronger syringe because the one that I used was already starting to bulge slightly under the pressure.
:D
dont be so arrogant lol, it should be one of the easiest, and you can use s larger siringe fixed to the frame just above a drill screw printer head. i have read clay printers use heating, and with a hair dryer you would have succesfuly printed complex clay forms as it dries. also one of the simplest way would be clay powder sintering with a solar lense heating the clay dust with jet binder at 1400 degrees, you can keep the motors outside the furnace enclosure with chain belts and zero plastic 3d printer
Do it then
@@ConstantijnC i wouldnt do it alone and this is a faulty approach that has made youtube worthless and so poor full of merchandise sellers and helpless doingitalone, as anything needs to be done by several people and have feedback from viewers, im already talking with pottery people in the area
Sprechen Sie deutsch?
14:50 ATHEIST CONFIRMED
😆
i would have really not tasted and swallowed that clay... in nature, at some site, in the forest... yes, no issues
but out of that bag? from a factory you have no clue what they are doing?
theres so much ewy chemistry added to modeling clay.... to be honest i feel like if you ate a teaspoon of every clay you could buy in the stores here, some would be no issue, and some would be a painway way to go