I have worked on a lot of cars in my time. Mechanical, Body Work and Paint. Maybe it wasn't perfect, but I did it all. ALL of the work I have done is just playing around - compared to what you have done so far. I own a 64 2dr. Biscayne. It has Rust - Front fenders, hood, and rear tail pan. That is all I have found to this time. I really hope that the rust I find - is only what I have found so far. My plans call for a Vortec 4.3, a Saginaw 4 speed plus overdrive, Air Conditioning, Body Work, Paint, Interior, and Tires and Wheels. I'm going to go for a retro street machine type of build. I think It'll take about 3 years to accomplish - I hope. What you have done in the videos of yours I have watched so far is incredible. I really mean it. Ask yourself - how many people will tackle a project of this magnitude without getting paid to do it? KUDOS to you friend, I hope to watch you drive it in a number of months. If it gets hard to go to the garage and work on the Impala - take a day or two - or a week off to do something completely different. What ever happened to the Van Halen Guitar? See what I mean?
+hmpopycok Wow I would like to see your 64 Biscayne, thank you for the kind words. My goal was 5 years but don't think I'm going to make it, thanks for watching.
Hey Sam did you get my email address? I posted it on one of your videos. I think I have a solution to the quarter panel issue. I think it all has to do with the way the tail light bezels are mounted in. I’ve already welded mine in so I’m gonna drill out the spot welds and reposition them both. If I’m right this will solve the gap between the taillights, the gap at each end of trunk and the slight curve that’s need on the top of each quarter.
No I did not get an email, which video did you post it on. I believe your on the right track. I was looking at it the other day and was thinking what if I would have adjusted the tail lights a little. When I welded the tail lights I just lined them up to the bottom of the tail panel and went from there. I don't have any experience doing this but now I know these aftermarket panels have to be adjusted, massaged into place, they just don't fit most of the time. I said it a few times on my videos that I should have kept my original quarters and just cut out the rusted sections and patched them. What I have learned from this is to keep as much of the original metal as you can.
@@ClassicCarOverhaul I agree. My quarts had rust in the typical areas. I should have just patched in too. I saw a video where a guy leaves the weatherstrip channel and patches in from there. I thought that was a good idea but at the time thought man that’s too much work but now after the fact that probably saved him the headache of where both of us arrived. I’m gonna drill out the taillight bezels and see if I can adjust. I’ll let you know if it works.
The easiest way to remove front coils is to get the frame up high enough...bust upper ball joint. Bust tie rods. Remove nuts and with a jack on the lower control arm let the arm down and with a little pry of crow bar the coils pops right out. Connect upper ball joint then bust the lower one lose. Nice work I hate those compressors
Always fun work! lol A trick if you aren't replacing ball joints and don't want to rip the rubber boot with the pickle fork is to loosen the ball joint nuts a few turns and give the a-frame a couple wacks with a hammer to pop the taper.
+ceedell Just my point. I have one of those pickle forks and i hate it and don't use it because it destroys the rubber. Normally some god wacks on the side. Perhaps with a kind of backstop, that helps a lot. Anyway thanks for the video, Sam.
i've used the sledgehammer to dislodge the upper ball joint, remove sway bar supports & thats it i leave the lower joint on. You can then compress spring & lower the supporting jack in some cases remove brake hose connection. I dislike using pickle forks a joint-popper would be a better choice
Great video on spring compression and removal. Not many good ones out there. But please. Make sure you never grab the end of a compressed spring. If the tool ever lets go, and they do this often due to the serious stress they put on the springs...the compressed spring would break whatever was in contact with that end! The proper way to handle these is keep your face away from either end. And any part of the anatomy you don't want crushed. Carry the spring sideways at all times. To be safe. First of all though. There is nothing safe about using one of these at home in your garage or shop. It is a risk. Beware! But good job on cutting out video when not showing things not so important. Very nice. At least you did not use an impact gun like many have done. I believe they ware the threaded rods very badly.
+Rusty “rustyglovebox” Glovebox Yes I'll be doing some upgrades, debating on going disc brakes all way around or just front and stay drums on back. Thanks Lloyd
You would have made your work easier if you broke BOTH ball joints loose BEFORE you compressed the spring any.That way the spring pressure helps in separating the 2 ball joints.Just be sure you only loosen the nuts on the ball joints enough to let them let go
Next time try loosening upper and lower ball joint nuts, and leave the nuts partialy on so you can use the force of the coil spring to brake the pre-load on the ball joints work for you... Just saying... Good job on the car..
You can get that fork at any auto parts store that sells tools, as for the drive shaft the last one I did I took it off the vehicle carrier bearing and all took it to al local drive shaft and had them replace it and balance it then installed back.
This....this has been the sad cloud for many a day. People dont often consider the time lapse you sometimes have when changing one part and another. Always have a safe place to stash bolts and whatnot.
I have worked on a lot of cars in my time. Mechanical, Body Work and Paint. Maybe it wasn't perfect, but I did it all. ALL of the work I have done is just playing around - compared to what you have done so far.
I own a 64 2dr. Biscayne. It has Rust - Front fenders, hood, and rear tail pan. That is all I have found to this time. I really hope that the rust I find - is only what I have found so far. My plans call for a Vortec 4.3, a Saginaw 4 speed plus overdrive, Air Conditioning, Body Work, Paint, Interior, and Tires and Wheels.
I'm going to go for a retro street machine type of build. I think It'll take about 3 years to accomplish - I hope.
What you have done in the videos of yours I have watched so far is incredible. I really mean it. Ask yourself - how many people will tackle a project of this magnitude without getting paid to do it? KUDOS to you friend, I hope to watch you drive it in a number of months.
If it gets hard to go to the garage and work on the Impala - take a day or two - or a week off to do something completely different. What ever happened to the Van Halen Guitar? See what I mean?
+hmpopycok Wow I would like to see your 64 Biscayne, thank you for the kind words. My goal was 5 years but don't think I'm going to make it, thanks for watching.
Hey Sam did you get my email address? I posted it on one of your videos. I think I have a solution to the quarter panel issue. I think it all has to do with the way the tail light bezels are mounted in. I’ve already welded mine in so I’m gonna drill out the spot welds and reposition them both. If I’m right this will solve the gap between the taillights, the gap at each end of trunk and the slight curve that’s need on the top of each quarter.
No I did not get an email, which video did you post it on. I believe your on the right track. I was looking at it the other day and was thinking what if I would have adjusted the tail lights a little. When I welded the tail lights I just lined them up to the bottom of the tail panel and went from there. I don't have any experience doing this but now I know these aftermarket panels have to be adjusted, massaged into place, they just don't fit most of the time. I said it a few times on my videos that I should have kept my original quarters and just cut out the rusted sections and patched them. What I have learned from this is to keep as much of the original metal as you can.
@@ClassicCarOverhaul I agree. My quarts had rust in the typical areas. I should have just patched in too. I saw a video where a guy leaves the weatherstrip channel and patches in from there. I thought that was a good idea but at the time thought man that’s too much work but now after the fact that probably saved him the headache of where both of us arrived. I’m gonna drill out the taillight bezels and see if I can adjust. I’ll let you know if it works.
Don't stop homie keep on truckin.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks, a great video.
Thanks for watching
The easiest way to remove front coils is to get the frame up high enough...bust upper ball joint. Bust tie rods. Remove nuts and with a jack on the lower control arm let the arm down and with a little pry of crow bar the coils pops right out. Connect upper ball joint then bust the lower one lose. Nice work I hate those compressors
Nice work Sam
+huck01955 Thank you
Wow you do more then work on cars great music! I'm your new sub! thank you so much for coming by my channel Annie!
Annie Farmer thank you very much Annie!
Lots of hard work. Looks like you are mastering it though.
+The Shade Tree Fix-it Man Thanks George
Nice work Sam. I don't like messing with those coil springs.
+Double R Restorations Me either, thanks Russ
Always fun work! lol A trick if you aren't replacing ball joints and don't want to rip the rubber boot with the pickle fork is to loosen the ball joint nuts a few turns and give the a-frame a couple wacks with a hammer to pop the taper.
+ceedell I'll have to try that next time, thanks Wendell
+ceedell Just my point. I have one of those pickle forks and i hate it and don't use it because it destroys the rubber.
Normally some god wacks on the side. Perhaps with a kind of backstop, that helps a lot.
Anyway thanks for the video, Sam.
+Ulrik Kaul I will have to try that, thanks
i've used the sledgehammer to dislodge the upper ball joint, remove sway bar supports & thats it i leave the lower joint on. You can then compress spring & lower the supporting jack in some cases remove brake hose connection. I dislike using pickle forks a joint-popper would be a better choice
Great video on spring compression and removal. Not many good ones out there. But please. Make sure you never grab the end of a compressed spring. If the tool ever lets go, and they do this often due to the serious stress they put on the springs...the compressed spring would break whatever was in contact with that end! The proper way to handle these is keep your face away from either end. And any part of the anatomy you don't want crushed. Carry the spring sideways at all times. To be safe. First of all though. There is nothing safe about using one of these at home in your garage or shop. It is a risk. Beware! But good job on cutting out video when not showing things not so important. Very nice. At least you did not use an impact gun like many have done. I believe they ware the threaded rods very badly.
Cool. New Subbed here.
Analyn Shaw Thank you
Are You going to stay stock Sam? Any brake updates planned while you have it off? Good progress
+Rusty “rustyglovebox” Glovebox Yes I'll be doing some upgrades, debating on going disc brakes all way around or just front and stay drums on back. Thanks Lloyd
Cool. Will you be doing a disc brake conversion?
+cheftush Yes the front for sure, don't know if it would be worth it going disc all way around.
You would have made your work easier if you broke BOTH ball joints loose BEFORE you compressed the spring any.That way the spring pressure helps in separating the 2 ball joints.Just be sure you only loosen the nuts on the ball joints enough to let them let go
Surely right. But that comes with experience. Next time.
Next time try loosening upper and lower ball joint nuts, and leave the nuts partialy on so you can use the force of the coil spring to brake the pre-load on the ball joints work for you... Just saying... Good job on the car..
Andy Pettit what is the torque specs for those upper & lower ball joints? I installing new one. I don’t want to over tighten. Aloha
@@702solidink castle nut on the ball joint, or install to the control arm's?
hey quick question what style of 64 are you building a rod a stock resto or a lowride?
+Gary Swartz Stock restoration, thanks for watching
Hi Sam, in one video you said something about your weather center, can you tell me where to get one and the cost ? Thanks Bill.
bill scott on Amazon if you search for Acurite weather station they have several I think I paid around $40
Where does one get that fork? And any idea how to replace the carrier support bearing? Trying to separate the yoke from the drive shaft.
You can get that fork at any auto parts store that sells tools, as for the drive shaft the last one I did I took it off the vehicle carrier bearing and all took it to al local drive shaft and had them replace it and balance it then installed back.
+Classic Car Overhaul That's probably the way to go with it. I'll have to track down the fork. I have a chassis I need to break down as well.
where do you get a spring compressor like the one you are using. Is there a manufacturer's name on the box or something?
I have had this for a long time and don't have the box. I don't see a manufactures name on it but I think I bought it at an Napa auto parts store.
We have Napa here too so I will go and see if they carry it. Thank you
جميل
nice progress.. now you just have to keep from misplacing all the parts
Running out of places to stash parts lol, going to be fun to find them when I need them that's for sure. Thanks for watching.
This....this has been the sad cloud for many a day. People dont often consider the time lapse you sometimes have when changing one part and another. Always have a safe place to stash bolts and whatnot.
I just love doing front end work - not really.
+Tom Noble I know what your talking about lol
Sir is are those stock springs?
Yes they are