Spring compressor FAIL! No more Death Wander!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2022
- Part 1 Intro & Disassembly: • Huge SUV all over the ...
This is Part 2 Oil Pan Reseal: • Oil Leak! Common Issue...
This is Part 3 Spring Compressor fail and Reassembly
This is Part 4 In-depth Suspension Alignment: • Suspension is Severely...
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Gotta give the owner of this vehicle credit for putting 💵💵 into it and keeping an older vehicle safe and on the road. Going to feel like new I’m sure. Great video Ray
if it was in Canada it would probably be rusted bad and not worth it, but this truck is clean underneath well worth the money for sure
Ah, the beauty of Florida, no rust. I did pretty much the same thing on my 07 Santa Fe that has over 200K miles on it. Feels like new. Having a lift would have made my life so much easier. 🙂
I love my older cars but in the north it is a constant battle against crusties.
These are great trucks, I bought an 08, new and it rides great. The problem is in the rust belt, it the little plastic and electric stuff that kills the fun of owning a truck like this. If I lived in the south, I would keep my truck forever. By rust belt I meant Canada. It’s very discouraging cause my 08 gm is a great truck, but the corrosion is,,,fack.
As a kid on a farm I never had time to run into town and buy cotter pins, so I used a nail. As an aircraft mechanic in the Air Force, I didn't have time to run into town and buy nails, so I had to use the cotter pins supplien to me. They both worked fine as long as you bent them over. LOL
@Tommy Ealey Thanks Tommy. Nice to know I made you laugh.
@Tommy Ealey It was a pleasure, and priviledge I will always be grateful to the American citizens who financed, and supported us.
Bet you didn't tell the pilot his aircraft was held up with nails. Unless of course he/she was a doofus.
@@chrisardern4594 I did meet a couple of pilots that would meet those requirements, but since the Air Force was rich enough to buy cotter pins, I used them. LOL
Which Airlines? Alot of nails rust😬
In the UK a cotter pin retains an old fashioned king pin in place. And is a round pin with a taper on one side, which is drawn in with a nut on a thread on one end. which locks the king pin with a small flat on one side. In this country we call those split pins. But we also have a bonnet (hood), boot(trunk), silencer(muffler),sill(rocker panel),wing(fender), and many more differences.
Spot on, in the UK they were always known as “split pins”. I also remember “cotter pins” were used to secure pedal cranks on bicycles and kick-start levers on motor bikes before electric starters!
Do you guys use spanner for this thing ----> 🔧?
@@dans_Learning_Curve Yes the pin has a thread on one end with a nut . this draws the pin into the hole which is tangential to the main king pin hole. as the pin draws in the side with the flat taper binds on and locks the king pin in place
@@geoffbuck6890 Yes on old bicycle pedals and kick starters on motorbikes and many other applications. If you know this you must be as old as me!
Cotter pins are made of mild steel and are used for locking nuts at the place. ... Whereas Split pins are made up of harder grade steel. It is once inserted into the hole to lock the nut.
An old guy taught me to use vehicle's weight, jack under control arm, and compress said spring. After compression, he tied a chunk of tow strap and that held the spring compressed, suspension was replaced, spring back in control arm, and installation was very easy. I've done it a few times, especially on anything with struts. Nice work man, I'm learning from you.
When you pulled out that spring compressor I said "oh no" Out loud, lol. I've had that type of compressor break on me 2 different times. The rush you get when a heavy duty '64 Impala spring goes flying by your head is quite the attention getter. So glad that you finally dropped the axle.
When you pulled out those spring compressors I thought, wow, wish mine had those extra pins for safety. Do remember one apprentice once trying to compress a spring on the floor of the workshop. It slipped, nearly took his head off, went thru’ the roof and was found about 200yds away in a field on the other side of a busy road!
I find watching your videos very cathartic. Your pile of parts takes me back to being a kid. A man across the road asked us kids if we wanted to take his engine apart. He told us to just toss all the bits into a box. We did this over a couple of weeks, and he just rebuilt it from a box of bits. Genius level engineer just like you. Another brilliant video, thank you.
Always add the correct lubricant to urethane bushings prior to assembling otherwise you may have unwanted noise.
Yep, all contact surfaces should get a light coating of silly cone grease to prevent squeaks and grunches.
What if grease collects dust and that creates a noise 😅 I would use dry graphite but in fact I don't even have PU bushings lol
TRUE...URETHANE IS A HARD DURABLE SUBSTANCE...YES IT WILL SQUEEK...
ALWAYS love to see new parts go on. Thankyou Ray
i think if i was going to redo the whole front end, why not go ahead and change the shocks?
And the bump stops too...
Yes Definitely do new shocks at that mileage and seeing the amount of front end wear, especially when highway handling was the complaint. The owner may have declined.
I was wondering if the bushes were all Polyurethane or did that only apply to the ant-iroll bar mountings; if it is a mix of poly and rubber how would this effect the handling?
@@jongodsell88 Poly is stiffer but the bar only rotates the rubber would give a little more sound dampening that's all you would struggle to feel the difference in response time during normal road use.
Yeah really.
I love these long 🔧 nuts n bolts videos , keep them coming Ray .... Greeeaatt job buddy 👌👌
The failure was in the choice of spring compressor. As you read, the case states that it's for a McPherson strut spring. Those rear springs are standard coil springs. There is a difference. I'm glad you stopped before getting hurt because I look forward to your next video.
I don't know why but working on cars is oddly satisfying, it's like your putting together a puzzle or making something functional again piece by piece. It's just you constantly scrape yourself, have rusted ass stuck bolts to break, take off 10 million parts just to get to the one part your trying to replace, all the tools you need, tight spaces, trying to find exact specifications (torque, specific part, how stuff is put together exactly) etc.. But after your done it's satisfying that you did it yourself, and now you know the ins and outs of it.
Great vid as always Ray! Its important to align the spring ends back in their home position.
14:39 Cotter pins and split pins are the same thing in the US. In the UK, a cotter pin is a pin used to hold a crank on a shaft of some sort, like a bicycle pedal to the main sprocket shaft.
Technically speaking, there are 8 different types of cotter pins: Split Cotter Pins, R-pins or R-clips, Standard Cotter Pin, Spring Cotter Pin, Barrel Cotter Pin, Dipped Cotter Pin, Straight Cotter Pins, Cotter Pin with a Key
Nobody cares.
Nice relaxing, without getting tired
Pleasure to watch you work Ray. Thank You !
I’ve already said that you are a very good technician, excellent diagnostic skills. It’s your personality and mannerisms that I can really relate with. I know it’s a small thing, but the phone thing is something I’ve caught myself doing. Thank you for the videos, they are awesome!!
Wow Ray, this reminded me of the day I changed the rear springs (one was broken) on my Vauxhall 2L Cavalier. Both springs are retained by a hinged metal plate that is secured by two bolts. Trouble was, when the bolts were removed, the metal plate had insufficient room to hinge back to allow the springs to fall out. My mate and I had no choice but to slowly, with the aid of wooden blocks, to keep alternating side jacks to the point where the car was almost vertical. It WAS very scary and as we were by the roadside (Oh yes were were) I had to keep slowing traffic else the gusts of wind might push the car over to one side. It was the scariest thing ever attempted and at the time I envied you guys with your car lifts. Crazy also to think that my cars rear suspension relied on just two bolts.
These 3 videos were so satisfying to watch 🇩🇰
love the addition of the classical music to the warp speed bits
Looks like a good repair but a shame you didn't replace the missing bump stops on the front suspension. Good to see a customer who actually looks after the vehicle and spends money when its needed.
I was thinking the same
He is half a hack
Been watching daily. Great mechanics stay busy.
Have you ever suggested a headlamp to replace your handheld lights?
Delphi headlamps are the most comfortable and a ton of light! Look them up. 👍🏼
Keep up the good work!
New suspension is so awesome♥
Love your videos. Great job on the front end replacement and on the rear springs. Very creative solution.
I am a fan of Ray's use of Beethoven in the light-speed-super-fast-motion segments. Indeed, Ray seems to be a learned individual of significant intellect 🧐
So much more pleasant than the scramble your brain raunchy stuff on so many other video sites (that make me not subscribe).
I was replacing struts on our '03 Forester. Didn't use quick struts. When I compressed the spring, the compressor slid on the spring to one side. My solution was to take a bit of emery paper, fold it in half length wise. This gave the tool a grip on the spring. No slipping after that. Oh, KYB struts are a bit stiffer that I like.
Totally admire your knowledge, competence and easy going determination mixed with humor
Love the new music on the interludes!
That spring install was extremely intelligent. Your way actually looks safer than those stupid spring compressors. Nice job, Ray
was no better or worse. Car springs are just scary all round, and ray had just as much chance of squashing a hand if that bar had slipped while he was maneuvering the spring onto the boot with his hand, not to mention the danger to the brake lines he acknowledged. It was good work in the circumstances, but just as risky if not riskier than those "stupid compressors".
Yeah pretty sure the way he did it is the proper procedure by the book. It's been a while but I do believe so.
@@chiefpoopydick
Yep, he just needed to disconnect the sway bar links (maybe one at a time) to drop it far enough to do the job without using the pry bar
Nice job mate 👍
@@ralfie8801 Agreed, it was literally impossible for him to do what we just saw him do.
Put a lug nut on rotor to hold in place until brakes completely assembled
I live vicariously through your sketchiness. Rock on!
Nice to see all the new suspension components came with grease Zerks @Rainman Ray's Repairs
i think we could have endless discussion on names, fender well / wheel arch, split pins / cotter pins, c-clamp / g-clamp, spanner / wrench,
fender / wing, anti roll bar / sway bar, etc. Does it matter :) love the vids and thats all that matters....
Also known as split cotters by some here in UK
I agree with you. But it is always interesting to hear the various names that thing are called in another country.
@@davesmewing2534 I recently found out in the USA, what we call wire nuts are called Marretts in Canada.
Nomenclatures are geographic in nature. Since we enjoy the luxury of Ray's excellent videos we can see what he is referring to even if we call them something different in our neck of the woods. I have noticed here in the US that Soda Pop in some regions is Soda, in others it's Pop and if you travel you might get a quizzical look by calling your drink the wrong one. A soda? Do you mean a pop? Well yeah "Soda Pop" Soda or pop for short right? How about just give me a cola :P.
@@darkdelta And are illegal through the UK and Europe !
Great Videos! I noticed those rear shocks look like the Nivomat shocks that come with the ZW7 Premium Smooth Ride option. They are not electronic nor do they use air. They interanlly self-level. If they are the Nivomats, then the springs that come with them are specific for those shocks. They are made to work specifically as a pair. If the springs are replaced with the Z71 springs, then the Z71 shocks should also go on. Just my 2 cents.
Yeah them shocks are going to want to over extend too often. They won't last long.
Exactly how I did them. @ $500-600 pr , Nivomat's not justifed.
Removed those nivomats from my Hoe and put in moog springs with KYB shocks all around. The tech installed them the exact same way. did make the Hoe ride higher but have some fatter wheels on there for more stability. The springs were not those tall ones though So the tech adjusted the torsion bars. It worked. No issues thus far and stable on the highway
A 2 for video this Sunday morning! Awesome!
I really like the music during high speed. Thank you.
It’s impressive how you can take things apart and put them back together. I always miss a screw when I’m fixing computers (laptops) or appliances than have to undo everything and redo it. Or I have to map out where everything goes. I just don’t have the memory capacity otherwise. Good job!
There's a difference with automotive applications. Every item has a distinct role and a good mechanic knows what attaches to what following basic mechanical principles just by looking at them and understanding how they interact. With computers it's nowhere near as obvious.
@@johnrussell5245 true. For example when I work on my car. I work on the simple and obvious things. Things that I could easily figure out. But if I had to change a timing belt that would be a hell no from, I’m leaving that to a pro because of correlations and timing and things that require special knowledge to not nuke the engine. Change wipers, change filters, change a fuse (using the legend), etc… things I could do. Change oil I could probably manage but with higher change of failure. Changing parts that require to tear part of the car down I won’t even try. I know my limits is what I’m saying. Anything else I’d take to a pro like Ray and pay him money to get it completed. 👍
You seem to have a problem with gravity. Maybe there's too much gravity at the stall you're using. Perhaps there's less gravity at one of the other stalls. Good luck with it!
Gravity is strong with this one.
@@oz1141 So what did we ue use before gravity was invented?
@@jostouw4366 You missed my Star Wars reference and gravity was not invented. 🙂
@@jostouw4366 Ether and phlogiston.
Have your hands magnetized! If that doesn't work, take some #6 guage solid core wire and wrap it around each individual finger, then your hand. Hook the ends to any fully charged 12 volt battery. That will help!
i am from the UK and love watching you video's, they are so informative
Love your music, no loud yelling or banging just plain soft great music.
Over here in the UK a Cotter pin is a solid pin or wedge, often with a small hole in the protruding end for a split pin to secure the Cotter. I believe in the US they call our split pins Cotter pins.
Correct, Same here in Australia
Someone has read dictionary 😁
In the UK they are definitely split pins and we/I used a different method for securing them. I would bend one side over top of stud and other gets trimmed and bent opposite way, looks nice and neat.
That's the way I do it also. It's the method I learned working on aircraft. Always considered that if it is good enough for aircraft it is good enough for my car.
When I served my apprenticeship,all splits were fitted that way. And some were huge (on marine diesels etc ) to open the split pin,you pushed it through,then smacked the head with a hammer which opens the legs of the pin,making them easy to set. To get them out,we used a pin puller,a long punch sharpened at one end and that end is bent 90 degrees,the sharp end goes into the pins head,and you whack the other end with a hammer and the pin comes out,even rusty ones.
@@Mercmad Or grip with side cutter and tap with hammer?
The "TIE FIGHTER" Piston Compressor! Love it! Cheers, Ray..
Another great video.
Thanks Ray
From what I have seen on engineering programs a split pin is a Hollow pin with a cut down one side so when you hammer it in it grips, cotter pins are what you use.
@Roland Braithwaite, you are referring to what is known as a "Roll Pin" or "Sellock Pin" or "Sellock Roll Pin".
"Split pin" is what Ray is using, which he is calling "Cotter Pin". Not the correct term to use, but if you're in the trade, you understand what he means.
@@albertogomes6262 it says cotter pin on the box.
@@matts3658 And it says "condenser" on the box when you buy a capacitor fir an old-school Kettering ("points and condenser") ignition...
@@LDuncanKelly I am no expert, but from a google search..."Condenser is a term used for a capacitor in the past. In time the term ceased to be used, with capacitor turning into the most commonly used term from 1926. Condenser and capacitor are one and the same viewed from electrical perspective." So looks like Cotter Pin is acceptable just the same you would be right to call the capacitor a condenser on yer old school Kettering Ignition. Seems all are acceptable scenarios.. is my point.
@Matt S, my personal take is that generic definitions have emerged over the years, the supposed idea is to simplify the vocabulary. However, depending on which side of the pond you're, some will stick and some won't.
Perhaps I'm giving away my age here 😁, but during my apprenticeship in the very early 70's, if I called a split pin a cotter pin, I'd be deemed to not be listening in class.
Cotter pins and split pins serve to separate purposes entirely, how they're now known as one and the same is beyond me.
I guess it's like calling a ball pein hammer and a claw hammer just hammers. Like cotter pin and split pin. They're from the same family, but they are designed for different applications. Their forenames distinguish the application. I hope it makes sense.
Glad to see you're waiting to tighten the control arms down until they're in the loaded position. Rubber bushings will last a lot longer if they're not sheared the first time the tires hit the ground.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos, I find them relaxing. Great work Ray. Gday from Australia.
Nice to see some solid steel parts and no only stamped sheet steel
Hello Ray love watching your vids from here in England, I am amazed at the underside condition of the majority of the cars that you work on as here in the UK rocksalt is used on the roads in winter.
Can I ask ( I'm an old cart now at 60 I am a mechanical engineer disabled due to a work related accident) do you ever use coppaslip or copper grease on your threads ?....cotter pins or split pins UK also (hood) bonnet (trunk) boot (fender) wing....(rotor) disc,,...love the content Ray and your commentary is magic thank you for a great channel regards David Caster
Indeed, I've never lost a car to mechanical failure in the UK, it just gets to the point where so many parts are corroded that it's simply not worth replacing any of them knowing that the rest will soon rot out as well.
Only real gripe I have with your work is that you do not even attempt to lube up rusty bolts. Especially in situations where they where hard to remove in the first place. Bit of grease works wonders. That completes my REEEEEE for today. :)
I MUST say that I like your taste in music as much as I like watching your videos. Splendid work Master Mechanic!
Thank you I am enjoying all videos
A cotter is a pin or wedge passing through a hole to fix parts tightly together. In British usage cotter pin has the same meaning, but in the U.S. it means a split pin. Typical applications are in fixing a crank to its crankshaft, as in a bicycle, and a piston rod to a crosshead, as in a steam engine.
your thinking of a roll pin.
@@davidmiller9485 It seems that R pins, Beta pins, cotter pins, roll pins etc are now collectively called Cotter pins.
Thanks we get this comment everytime there's a ball joint in rays videos 👍
@@davidmiller9485 a roll pin is a thin walled, hollow, spring steel pin with a split down one side, it is driven into shafts etc to often lock drive flanges in place.
@@marksmallman4572 My understanding too. 😉
Multi-part videos are great! This was a fun one to watch because I have a similar vehicle that may need service soon. The undercarriage and parts thereof, looks really good for the it's age, 2001 Tahoe 5.3 91.345), but before it needs that type of service, my hope is to sell this vehicle within the year and get a new vehicle with 6 cylinders and heated seats and steering wheel. I'm getting old and the warm seats and wheel in Michigan will be a nice comfort to have, not to mention the fuel savings.
I'd be interested in purchasing that vehicle, got cash in hand, let me know....
Didn't know about heated steering wheels.
@@darkdeltalike heated seats they're an absolute game changer
Fantastic job, Ray. You are the man!
Thanks again Ray
When installing polyurethane bushings anywhere-
always lightly coat all metal contact surfaces, to avoid comeback
complaints of squeaks, which will happen, guaranteed.
what do you coat them with silicone grease?
@@ranger178 That's my question too.
@@ranger178 Silicone paste, or Dielectric grease. No petroleum. Just a light smear film.
I always used moly paste. Any known issues with that?
@@pughconsulting Would be better to use a silicone paste like 3M 08946 or similar.
When I started my apprenticeship with the Victorian Railways ( Melbourne, Australia) we were still machining parts for steam locomotives.
My old apprentice master would have kicked my backside for calling a split pin a cotter pin (many times for other infractions)
Time before, I'm loving your dedication, diligence and the quality of your work and your videos.
Remind to tell you the story one day of how he sent me to the tool store for a glass hammer to tap out a bolt I'd snapped off.
My neck hurts just watching your video!! The music during the high-speed segments was great!
Rear spring refitment went well. Congrats I didn't think you were going to make it. Love from the UK.
The spring job was way safer and less ree-able, because you relieved the tension and just compressed them a little bit to get them out/in, as compared to compressing an already compressed spring.
Cotter pin, split pin, same thing, like boot or trunk; hood or bonnet; fender or wing; bar-b-cue or pulled pork. Just depends on where you're from and what you learned to call it.
"bar-b-cue or pulled pork" Someone in Texas is angry and they don't know why. :)
Except for dampers/shock absorbers. We got that one completely wrogn.
Springs absorb shock. Dampers damp (duh) the oscillation of the springs.
The piano calms me down, I think that it works really well with the sped-up footage. Have a good day Rainman!
I love the midnight sonata
Cotter pins are most commonly used to lock castle and slotted nuts or secure a clevis pins as well as wheel or machine components on an axle. ... A split pin has two long tines that are bent to hold it in place.
Types
A cotter pin is a wedge or pin that passes via a hole. Cotter or split pin works on the locking mechanism
The cotter pin has the following major types: Split cotter pins, R-pins or R-clips, Standard Cotter Pin, Spring Cotter Pin, Barrel Cotter Pin, Dipped Cotter Pin, Straight Cotter Pins, Cotter Pin with a Key.
Love the choices of music!!!!
Great series really enjoyed it. Nice choice of music as well. Sooo relaxing.
Wikipedia: A cotter is a pin or wedge passing through a hole to fix parts tightly together. In British usage cotter pin has the same meaning,[1] but in the U.S. it means a split pin. Everyone is right, result!
They can also be called "Cotter Keys"
Cotter pin... Split pin... "same dog, different leg action" (Local Australianism for we all know what it means, don't sweat the little things)
@@iffracem Not the same dog, in the UK a cotter pin is a solid pin usually hardened with a tapered flat on one side or the whole pin tapered, often with a screw thread for a nut at the small end for example to fix the pedal crank arm to the shaft on a bicycle. A split pin is a bifurcated soft metal locking pin, not even a dog.
@@690Lighthouse Correct.
Second question, more for the vehicle and not for the repairs you did, it seems those bump stops for the front suspension are always missing on these GMT800 pickups and SUVs. Later in the video it shows there are giant yellow ones out back, but none up front, it could probably use those. Dorman 905-208 should be correct.
I thought the same thing. He is not very observent.
Came in to say that.
Nice sway bar bushings. My favorite color, Moog blue!
Hi. Looking at your videos is funnier than Netflix, and more intuitive as well. Thanks.
Front bump stops are missing
My father was a mechanic for years and he always told me he liked to put bolt heads toward the front of the vehicle. Said it was like they were suspended in air and the car just rolled forward into them... I think it was his OCD
Sometimes it is specified, and sometimes there is an "industry best practice."
In army aircraft, all bolts were installed downward unless the manufacturer or practical concerns said otherwise. (The reasoning that I heard was that, at least for shear bolts, if they came unfastened, they weren't likely to fall out, and whatever they were securing would still work. Obviously, that isn't the case for tension bolts - but at least you won't lose them, or have them fall out and possibly jam a flight control.)
I'm not sure how the ground vehicle mechanics do their thing.
At any rate, I've always applied the practices to civilian jobs, and none of the inspectors has ever complained that I'm not doing it right.
My own OCD is reeeeeee-ing over all the wrenching from the bolt-head. There were very few cases where a bolt-head had to be turned - otherwise, you always wrench from the nut. Usually because most aircraft bolts have corrosion resistant coatings, (many are cadmium plated,) and turning the bolt wears it off of the shank inside the hole.
And those cotter pins....
@@eclectichoosier5474 ok...
@@eclectichoosier5474 You would be surprised how strong cotter pins really are. When I was an alignment tech you would get the occasional do it yourselfer come in to diagnose their suspension issues, they would fix it themselves and bring it back for the alignment. There have been several times I've seen castle nuts for tie rods installed finger tight, the nut unscrewed all the way down to the cotter pin and that was the only thing holding the tie rod in the knuckle. In one such case I know the person drove 30 miles like that at speeds up to 80mph. Unbelievably wreckless to do something so stupid but it really puts in perspective how good of a redundancy cotter pins are
Back in the days when there was room to choose.
I do need to get one of those caliper spreaders.
“Identicalish”. Love the fascinating new words you come up with!
I feel like the spring compressors would have worked (reeeee?). The threaded part shouldn't have impacted the undercarriage since as the spring compressed that would have provided the space needed. Great vids Ray - keep them coming!
Probably Tru, but most straight rear axels drop enuf for kwiker spring replacement anyway, I found.
If the shocks are unbolted. They should be replaced on anything over 50k miles or so, Especially this self level type.
Anyone else notice the front has no bump stops. Feel sorry for the person if they bottom out the front suspention.
I mentioned that in the previous video.
Good video Ray. You make it look so simple. But I don’t have a lift so I’m crawling under the truck on jack stands. Sucks. Thanks for the informative video
Love your back ground music.
@29:34 your company hires just anyone off the street? Your mechanic ability is really questionable I'm an airplane mechanic on the weekends and I can see by you prying the spring out is totally wrong! If you were to take the nut/bolt off the sway bar links the axle would come down enough to slid the spring out.
Ive been watching only a short while and beginning to wonder if it's worth my time watching you!! I do know if I live there in Sarasota I would definitely NOT have you work on my vehicles!!
Doing a suspension refresh on my gto this spring and I learned alot of important tips from this series ray. Thank you for doing what you do, great entertainment and information in these videos man. Still not looking forward to working with the springs tho! Have a great day man
Ray you are inspiring for sure, do fantastic work. Spent many years in a shop with dad fixing on cars myself. Do most of the repairs to my own cars. Thought about getting the ASE certification and all. Could be fun change of careers from the current 12am shift 😂.
I like the tork spec 3 grunts and a click.
Brake caliper tool, one of the best tools I bought other than my battery ratchet
Yes perfect way to explain it , "just because"
Like Sububan's and your videos. I learned to crack caliper bleed screws when compressing the pistons back in for new pads so the bad fluid down at the wheel doesn't get pushed back toward the ABS stuff.
This was a great series Ray. I especially enjoyed the "Moonlight Sonata" during your speeded up section...
YOU ARE THE MAAAAAN! Great job, Ray! 😄
I always used one of those blue bushing puter oners to not pinch a fingy
Thanks for lubricating the slide pins for the brakes, so many people fell to do so and then after a while you get a big major problem of the getting seized up and pain to get free.
You sir appear to be one of nature's rarest creatures, an honest mechanic. In my experience, here in England, they are as rare as hen's teeth. Thank you Ray.
That's right...right cheer and right chair !!
I like the blue color...it matches your gloves.
Love the moonlight sonata! Best music on the video!
Nice job on the rear springs. Keep up the vids.
love the classic music
I used those same spring compressors to replace new front struts on my trailblazer, worked perfect using an impact wrench to turn them gradually on each side.
In the UK a cotter pin is a tapered pin with a nut and thread on one end. The nut is used to pull the pin in place. They were used a lot on bicycles - not any more.
Moog parts!! Love the points