it is better to remove those white stuff and uncover the holes, then go inside the door space and cover outer metal sheets with vibration dampening material that you used on other parts of the doors. Those wide metal sheets are the one that vibrates the most and produce much of the noise. After that you can cover those holes with the same vibration dampening stuff. Trust me - this will not only help with the noise, this will also help indoors speakers to improve bass response
Thank you! I went back today and removed the white plastic covers and there is tons of space under there to soundproof. Made a huge difference. Thank you! I'm going to pin this comment so more people see it.
The white covers are supposed to be single use. However, I have successfully removed many over the years with a hairdryer to heat the glue and carefully peel. The inner door skin has lots of shapes which means it won't transfer noise well. The outer door skin is just like a big drum skin so concentrate there.
Solid recommendation, Kieran. You and many others have said as much, so I went back today and added sound deadening material there and you are right. Makes a world of difference. Thank you!
If you are concerned that the plastic will not stick back on you can buy butyl tape for that, although when you apply sound mat on it you can make it overlap and hold it in place anyway.
The idea to turn a budget city car into something as comfortable is my kind of jam. Had 2003 Polo 1.2 petrol 64 HP and thought about doing so. Shy of doing it, made a trip around my county where it drank massive amounts. 23 MPG US? Hard no, traded in for something (ironically) more feasible and affordable
@@jamieaygo 2006 Opel Combo, which is based on the comparable car to Polo but with cargo unit. Diesel, decent power, utility in mind. Love it! How about you?
When you took the rear door panel off you mentioned that some stayed on the door card.. that’s good, they should all be on the door card and then clip into the metal of the door when putting back. Also on doors the maximum soundproof benefit is from putting the material on the inside of the outer door skin, the door panel acts like a drum skin and makes all the noise, the parts you covered don’t do much. Same with the front doors. You need to remove that white plastic membrane and apply a square about 6x6 inch in the centre of the door skin panel, obviously ensure the window is up or you won’t be able to get to it.
Thank you, Andrew. Solid recommendations. I have actually gone back and removed the white plastic panels and soundproofed the outer door panels and it makes a huge difference, so thank you!
Hi Jamie, with the doors you should do the insides of the outer skins. Alot of wind and road noise comes through. Also another tip on your sound deadening trip - BMW door trim clips. They have foam isolating rings. You can also add closed cell foam to the back of the door cards for extra help with noise/creaks/vibrations through the plastic 😊 Overall you're doing great as a beginner for sure 🙂
Thank you, Paul. You are aptly named as I certainly feel wiser as a result of your comment. I actually went back and did those sections as per your advice and that of others and it's made a huge difference, so thank you. I am currently Googling "BMW door trim clips"😂 I did think about adding foam too, but wanted to keep the car on the lighter end, so opted not to do that. That might change depending on how I feel about the result. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. We don’t have the Aygo here in Australia, only the Yaris, but I’m shocked at how there’s exposed metal on the tops of the doors like an 80s car! And not a single shred of fabric, vinyl or soft plastic. I can imagine soundproofing would make a larger difference here since there’s very little soft material to absorb sound from the factory. I’m currently trying to soundproof my BM Mazda 3, fantastic car but infamous for road noise. So far I’ve done the bonnet for engine noise and bootlid so it shuts with a nice thud - straightforward. Now I dread trim removal for the doors but that’s what’s effective I guess. I know most people advise to remove the vapour barrier and put the soundproofing on the outer door panel. Were you able to get good results from just doing the inner door like in this video, or do I need to go further here?
I'd advise going further. Many kind people commented on my video suggesting to remove the vapour barrier and sound proof the outer panel. Makes a huge difference and seen as though you've done most of the work to get there, it's only a small extra step, but totally worth it. Difference is huge. Once you've removed two door cards, you'll be a pro and have a good understanding of how to put them back together!
I'd be interested to know how much you end up using in total, or how much covers certain areas (bonnet, boot, doors, etc). Have you noticed the increased weight? I can feel the difference with each additional passenger, so I'm a bit hesitant to add sound deadening to my car.
I've used about 90% of one box across the driver's side door card, one rear passenger door card, the bonnet and boot and have another box on order. The weight question is a great one, and yes, you do feel it. The most noticeable is when you actually open a door that is soundproofed versus one that isn't. I'm curious about fuel consumption also, so I'll keep an eye on that, too!
Hey Jamie, just started my “sound deadening” project on my Aygo too and atm i have placed Kilmat sheets on the boot, rear wheel arches and under the carpets as much as I could toward the engine and front wheel arches, and tomorrow I will try the car with the product installed for the first time, so I’m excited! I had a few questions for you: do you think putting it on the doors has a good chance of dramatically improving the situation, considering the risk of misalignment when i put everything back on, or i got most of the results just with what I’ve done? And in case I wanted to do the doors, you pointed out in the comments how you took that plasticky parts off and putted the sheets under there. In that case, how did you detached it without damaging it and how did you put it back in place? Did doing so actually improved audio quality in the Aygo? Thanks for the time you’ll take in case you wanted to answer, and greetings from Italy!
Hey, Matteo. Thanks for the comment! With soundproofing, you really want to use three layers to get any difference you can actually hear. Kilmat is the first part of that journey, but then you want to apply a cell-based foam on top of that. I've done a video with the one I used (it's by a company called Silless and it's super easy to install, hence why I bought it). After that, you want to use mass-loaded vinyl, which is basically like a thin sheet of rubber that works well at blocking air noise. All these materials work in combination with each other to soundproof your car. Using Kilmat on its own, you will see differences when you measure the sound with something like a microphone that doesn't auto adjust for gain like the ones in smartphones do and you might hear a slight difference, but you want to be using all three materials in combination with each other for maximum gains. For the door card, in my experience, it's tough to misalign the doors as clips and screws are keeping it in place, so it's quite hard to get it wrong. I do think it is absolutely worth doing the doors as a lot of noise comes through there, especially the outer panel, so I'd focus on that rather than the panel on the inside of the door. if you end up breaking anything, parts can be found on eBay that are super cheap. I picked up (search for this term on eBay) "50X plastic door trim panel bumper retainer clips rivet fasteners 9mm hole" for 8.47 GBP that seems to do the trick, but do shop around. Many people have also commented that you don't need to fully cover the surface with Kilmat. You can get away with 30-50% coverage, so save yourself some material 👍 I am actually working on a huge video that will cover the whole project and it's frustrating that I can't get the video out sooner to help you, but do stick around and ask questions! Folks in the comments are really helpful.
Hey, Sayan. I have actually gone back to the doors and removed the white plastic covers and covered the outer panels in sound proofing material and it makes a huge difference. Between the boot, bonnet, one rear door card and one front door card, I've used about 90% of one box, so I've got another on order that will come tomorrow. I haven't actually done the offside doors yet, so I'll see how far the next box gets me. I'm guessing two boxes will be enough for the Aygo, but time will tell. Tine wise, you are probably looking at 2 hours for the bonnet, 2 for the boot and about 3-4 hours for per door card.
I sticked these mats on all doors on the left side. My plan was to hear the difference between the dampened left and raw right side, but I couldn’t hear a difference. I ordered some PU foam (not the spray version) to stuff the voids. Does anyone has experience with filling the voids? Am I on the right track to success?
you won't really hear much difference audibly speaking, but you'd likely find a difference if you measure it with sound equipment. To get the full effect, what you need to do is use sound proofing material like the Kilmat ones as a base with foam on top and then something like mass loaded vinyl on top of that, so you'd essentially have like a three layered cake of sound. The reason for this is that they combat different things. The Kilmat sound deadening mats combat mostly vibrations, the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) combats air/wind noise and the foam acts as a layer in between to capture everything else. I don't have experience with PU foam, but I'd imagine that will act like the Siless foam stick on layers that I've used. If that's the case, using something like MLV on top of that will give you the best of all worlds.
Good review however its false to claim zero road noise. I had the Aygo Mk1. Problem if you put too much sound dampner. It will put more weight on the car and slowl you down. You actually need closed cell foam on top of the sound dampening to reduce noise.
✅ Free advice - subscribepage.io/8SqMmc
it is better to remove those white stuff and uncover the holes, then go inside the door space and cover outer metal sheets with vibration dampening material that you used on other parts of the doors. Those wide metal sheets are the one that vibrates the most and produce much of the noise. After that you can cover those holes with the same vibration dampening stuff. Trust me - this will not only help with the noise, this will also help indoors speakers to improve bass response
Thank you! I went back today and removed the white plastic covers and there is tons of space under there to soundproof. Made a huge difference. Thank you! I'm going to pin this comment so more people see it.
The white covers are supposed to be single use. However, I have successfully removed many over the years with a hairdryer to heat the glue and carefully peel. The inner door skin has lots of shapes which means it won't transfer noise well. The outer door skin is just like a big drum skin so concentrate there.
Solid recommendation, Kieran. You and many others have said as much, so I went back today and added sound deadening material there and you are right. Makes a world of difference. Thank you!
If you are concerned that the plastic will not stick back on you can buy butyl tape for that, although when you apply sound mat on it you can make it overlap and hold it in place anyway.
The idea to turn a budget city car into something as comfortable is my kind of jam. Had 2003 Polo 1.2 petrol 64 HP and thought about doing so. Shy of doing it, made a trip around my county where it drank massive amounts. 23 MPG US? Hard no, traded in for something (ironically) more feasible and affordable
Thank you! Mine too, ha! A good old Polo. Solid start. What did you end up getting to replace it?
Damn only 23mpg must have been a fault with that car or you was revving the nuts off it 😂
@@jamieaygo 2006 Opel Combo, which is based on the comparable car to Polo but with cargo unit. Diesel, decent power, utility in mind. Love it! How about you?
When you took the rear door panel off you mentioned that some stayed on the door card.. that’s good, they should all be on the door card and then clip into the metal of the door when putting back. Also on doors the maximum soundproof benefit is from putting the material on the inside of the outer door skin, the door panel acts like a drum skin and makes all the noise, the parts you covered don’t do much. Same with the front doors. You need to remove that white plastic membrane and apply a square about 6x6 inch in the centre of the door skin panel, obviously ensure the window is up or you won’t be able to get to it.
Thank you, Andrew. Solid recommendations. I have actually gone back and removed the white plastic panels and soundproofed the outer door panels and it makes a huge difference, so thank you!
Hi Jamie, with the doors you should do the insides of the outer skins. Alot of wind and road noise comes through. Also another tip on your sound deadening trip - BMW door trim clips. They have foam isolating rings. You can also add closed cell foam to the back of the door cards for extra help with noise/creaks/vibrations through the plastic 😊
Overall you're doing great as a beginner for sure 🙂
Thank you, Paul. You are aptly named as I certainly feel wiser as a result of your comment. I actually went back and did those sections as per your advice and that of others and it's made a huge difference, so thank you. I am currently Googling "BMW door trim clips"😂 I did think about adding foam too, but wanted to keep the car on the lighter end, so opted not to do that. That might change depending on how I feel about the result. Thanks again!
Cool project! Waiting for part 3 :)
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. We don’t have the Aygo here in Australia, only the Yaris, but I’m shocked at how there’s exposed metal on the tops of the doors like an 80s car! And not a single shred of fabric, vinyl or soft plastic. I can imagine soundproofing would make a larger difference here since there’s very little soft material to absorb sound from the factory.
I’m currently trying to soundproof my BM Mazda 3, fantastic car but infamous for road noise. So far I’ve done the bonnet for engine noise and bootlid so it shuts with a nice thud - straightforward.
Now I dread trim removal for the doors but that’s what’s effective I guess. I know most people advise to remove the vapour barrier and put the soundproofing on the outer door panel. Were you able to get good results from just doing the inner door like in this video, or do I need to go further here?
I'd advise going further. Many kind people commented on my video suggesting to remove the vapour barrier and sound proof the outer panel. Makes a huge difference and seen as though you've done most of the work to get there, it's only a small extra step, but totally worth it. Difference is huge. Once you've removed two door cards, you'll be a pro and have a good understanding of how to put them back together!
I'd be interested to know how much you end up using in total, or how much covers certain areas (bonnet, boot, doors, etc).
Have you noticed the increased weight? I can feel the difference with each additional passenger, so I'm a bit hesitant to add sound deadening to my car.
I've used about 90% of one box across the driver's side door card, one rear passenger door card, the bonnet and boot and have another box on order. The weight question is a great one, and yes, you do feel it. The most noticeable is when you actually open a door that is soundproofed versus one that isn't. I'm curious about fuel consumption also, so I'll keep an eye on that, too!
Hey Jamie, just started my “sound deadening” project on my Aygo too and atm i have placed Kilmat sheets on the boot, rear wheel arches and under the carpets as much as I could toward the engine and front wheel arches, and tomorrow I will try the car with the product installed for the first time, so I’m excited! I had a few questions for you: do you think putting it on the doors has a good chance of dramatically improving the situation, considering the risk of misalignment when i put everything back on, or i got most of the results just with what I’ve done? And in case I wanted to do the doors, you pointed out in the comments how you took that plasticky parts off and putted the sheets under there. In that case, how did you detached it without damaging it and how did you put it back in place? Did doing so actually improved audio quality in the Aygo? Thanks for the time you’ll take in case you wanted to answer, and greetings from Italy!
Hey, Matteo. Thanks for the comment! With soundproofing, you really want to use three layers to get any difference you can actually hear. Kilmat is the first part of that journey, but then you want to apply a cell-based foam on top of that. I've done a video with the one I used (it's by a company called Silless and it's super easy to install, hence why I bought it). After that, you want to use mass-loaded vinyl, which is basically like a thin sheet of rubber that works well at blocking air noise. All these materials work in combination with each other to soundproof your car.
Using Kilmat on its own, you will see differences when you measure the sound with something like a microphone that doesn't auto adjust for gain like the ones in smartphones do and you might hear a slight difference, but you want to be using all three materials in combination with each other for maximum gains.
For the door card, in my experience, it's tough to misalign the doors as clips and screws are keeping it in place, so it's quite hard to get it wrong. I do think it is absolutely worth doing the doors as a lot of noise comes through there, especially the outer panel, so I'd focus on that rather than the panel on the inside of the door.
if you end up breaking anything, parts can be found on eBay that are super cheap. I picked up (search for this term on eBay) "50X plastic door trim panel bumper retainer clips rivet fasteners 9mm hole" for 8.47 GBP that seems to do the trick, but do shop around.
Many people have also commented that you don't need to fully cover the surface with Kilmat. You can get away with 30-50% coverage, so save yourself some material 👍
I am actually working on a huge video that will cover the whole project and it's frustrating that I can't get the video out sooner to help you, but do stick around and ask questions! Folks in the comments are really helpful.
Do you think the results worth it ?
How much material you needed for the boot, bonnet and the doors ? And how much time ?
Hey, Sayan. I have actually gone back to the doors and removed the white plastic covers and covered the outer panels in sound proofing material and it makes a huge difference. Between the boot, bonnet, one rear door card and one front door card, I've used about 90% of one box, so I've got another on order that will come tomorrow. I haven't actually done the offside doors yet, so I'll see how far the next box gets me. I'm guessing two boxes will be enough for the Aygo, but time will tell. Tine wise, you are probably looking at 2 hours for the bonnet, 2 for the boot and about 3-4 hours for per door card.
Is the roller not damaging the material? id imagine it was designed to be most efficient with that pill-like texture
No, it's actually designed that way so you know that its adhered properly.
Putting the doors back is a pain and you should have extra clips in case some break.
That's great advice! You can never have too many clips!
I sticked these mats on all doors on the left side. My plan was to hear the difference between the dampened left and raw right side, but I couldn’t hear a difference. I ordered some PU foam (not the spray version) to stuff the voids.
Does anyone has experience with filling the voids? Am I on the right track to success?
you won't really hear much difference audibly speaking, but you'd likely find a difference if you measure it with sound equipment. To get the full effect, what you need to do is use sound proofing material like the Kilmat ones as a base with foam on top and then something like mass loaded vinyl on top of that, so you'd essentially have like a three layered cake of sound. The reason for this is that they combat different things. The Kilmat sound deadening mats combat mostly vibrations, the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) combats air/wind noise and the foam acts as a layer in between to capture everything else. I don't have experience with PU foam, but I'd imagine that will act like the Siless foam stick on layers that I've used. If that's the case, using something like MLV on top of that will give you the best of all worlds.
Vibra should go to external part of door...
Thank you. Solid recommendation. Went back today and did just that.
My kind of project
Thank you! Mine too, ha!
Good review however its false to claim zero road noise. I had the Aygo Mk1. Problem if you put too much sound dampner. It will put more weight on the car and slowl you down. You actually need closed cell foam on top of the sound dampening to reduce noise.
Thank you, Scotman. I'll review my thumbnail. I'll certainly have a look at adding some closed cell foam if the difference isn't significant.
so does aa full tank of fuel , never worry about a few kg in weight , enjoy a quieter car.