I applaud you trying this however you have really missed the basics. You don't need to absolutely slather the car in mass load vinyl / bitumen. Small pieces in strategic places to reduce resonance, with the overall panel covered with closed cell foam is far better (not to mention much cheaper and easier) to install. For the closed cell foam, use self-adhesive foam underlayer. It's usually found in fireproof varieties and you generally get enough for 4-5 cars at half the price. Then on the internal plastic trim, heavy insulation doesn't work much, you are best off using 3M Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation, for any transmitted frequencies to be absorbed (it's what is used in Rolls Royces). Or just buy a quieter car. I am in a £2k Peugeot in which everything is already sound insulated.. and even has acoustic double glazed windows to make everything whisper quiet inside.
@@jamieaygo The biggest area for sound is from the roof as well. Especially if you don't have a sunroof. (Formed ribs into the sheet metal and attachments dampen down vibrations) but the roof doesn't have ribs, as it's a single skin! On that, use small A5 pieces of bitumen and cover in close cell foam completely. It also insulates against the sun, so cooler in the summer! Sadly you can't, my point is, that features like double glazed glass was only available on certain high end cars, RR, Bentley and some S-class, 7 series BMW and Audi A8's... but PSA have included it into some of their normal cars, which are affordable and cost less than your Aygo to buy, such as their 308 (old+new), 407, 508, and Citroen C4 / C5 etc.
Indeed. I've been using mass-loaded vinyl (MLV) on the floor where it's easier to work with, but I don't particularly have the patience for hanging it on the doors 😂
I think that audibly the ear can only hear 3 dB differences. So it may be a problem in measuring. The butyl damper can be applied across large spaces like door panels by applying small areas of it at distances designed to cancel harmonics. So place them at 1/3, 1/5, 1/7 distances across an area. Try and avoid the even numbers as they can still vibrate on the even distances ie 1/2, 1/4 etc A nice video explaining what you did to insulate the car.
At first I thought my new Pioneer speakers were rubbish. The sound was very resonant at first, the bass reproduction was very thin and ugly. After I flattened the doors inside with this stuff I couldn't believe my ears! The bass now sounds so incredibly full and deep! My bass setting was first set to +7 after everything was done, it is at -1 😃
I see you haven't posted in a while I was worried I had been unsubbed or something, Good to have you back! Unfortunately I don't have my Aygo anymore I traded it in for a 2019 Mini Cooper Sport and its a great little upgrade from the Aygo! I will probably apply some sound deadning to it as the road noise is noticable at speed or on uneven roads
Glad you stuck around. Thank you! Awesome that you got a new car and by the sounds of it, you're enjoying it as a nice little upgrade. In honesty, I won't stay Aygo forever and more broadly I'm a lover of cars, so I hope to get quite a few on the channel going forward! Thanks for sticking around!
Hey Jamie, I hope you do make these audio level displays by using both footages in the same file. If you open the before and after recordings separately, your 0 reference point will change, reducing the difference in decibels (meaning you have better effect irl than we see on these displays) edit: if you use any cheapo external mic in a laptop and manually set sensitivity in windows advanced sound settings, your gain won't change by itself
Hey, Roman. I’ve covered it in more depth in my newest video, so I’d encourage you to watch that. In essence, Kilmat (a brand of butyl mat) kills vibrations that travel through car panels. It’s the first layer you need to use when soundproofing your car. The second to put on top of that is closed cell foam and then you can put mass loaded vinyl on top of that where possible. The latter material is heavy and unless you have a decent adhesive, it will be hard to hang. It’s perfect for putting on the floor of the car, though.
It does make a decent difference, but ideally you want to be lining it together with something like mass loaded vinyl or a cell-based sound dampening mat to make a real difference. Kilmat makes more of a difference at lower speeds and gets rid of panel vibration where as the mass loaded vinyl/sound-deadening mats will deal with wind noise at higher speeds, so that's why it's worth using both.
@@jamieaygo Thank you for the reply. I take Kilmat would be more suitable for larger panels to reduce vibration but "thickening" them - whereas mass loaded vinyl more suited to wheel arches?
Mass loaded vinyl is tough to bend, so doesn't really lend well to wheel arches. It's worth using a lighter cell-based mat for the wheel arches. I've put mass loaded vinyl on the inside of the car on flat surfaces where it doesn't need much bending or contorting like the boot and footwells. I know some people may use it on wheel arches, but you'd need to use something like No More Nails to stick it down, which is a real faff.
You need more than just killmat, personally I'd just change to a quieter car or if you're due a tire change buy some really quiet tires as that's going to make a huge difference, if your car has a lot of resonance you should stick down some butyl pads on large open surfaces to change the resonant frequency, which is what it's meant to do, it doesn't dampen sound, it dampens vibrations which in turn reduce the amount of sound created. There are FAR better vids than this about the topic with actual proper a/b testing, methodology and reasoning but the gist of it is that you can't change a noisy car into a quiet one, there's a lot more than just some dampening material that goes into it.
it's worth doing the whole car for the full affect, which is what I am doing but it takes a long time. Even if you end up only knocking a few decibels off, it is still worth it because with sound being measured logarithmically, you ear will hear a 50% drop with just a few decibels shaved off.
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I applaud you trying this however you have really missed the basics. You don't need to absolutely slather the car in mass load vinyl / bitumen. Small pieces in strategic places to reduce resonance, with the overall panel covered with closed cell foam is far better (not to mention much cheaper and easier) to install. For the closed cell foam, use self-adhesive foam underlayer. It's usually found in fireproof varieties and you generally get enough for 4-5 cars at half the price. Then on the internal plastic trim, heavy insulation doesn't work much, you are best off using 3M Thinsulate Acoustic Insulation, for any transmitted frequencies to be absorbed (it's what is used in Rolls Royces). Or just buy a quieter car. I am in a £2k Peugeot in which everything is already sound insulated.. and even has acoustic double glazed windows to make everything whisper quiet inside.
Thanks for the tips. Appreciate it! How did you go about adding double glazing to your car?
@@jamieaygo The biggest area for sound is from the roof as well. Especially if you don't have a sunroof. (Formed ribs into the sheet metal and attachments dampen down vibrations) but the roof doesn't have ribs, as it's a single skin! On that, use small A5 pieces of bitumen and cover in close cell foam completely. It also insulates against the sun, so cooler in the summer!
Sadly you can't, my point is, that features like double glazed glass was only available on certain high end cars, RR, Bentley and some S-class, 7 series BMW and Audi A8's... but PSA have included it into some of their normal cars, which are affordable and cost less than your Aygo to buy, such as their 308 (old+new), 407, 508, and Citroen C4 / C5 etc.
The Siless foam normally acts as a vibration damping layer between the butyl+foil anti-vibration material and the mass-loaded vinyl.
Indeed. I've been using mass-loaded vinyl (MLV) on the floor where it's easier to work with, but I don't particularly have the patience for hanging it on the doors 😂
@@jamieaygo where did you get the MLV from (in the UK)? Does it have any smell to it??? Thanks!
I think that audibly the ear can only hear 3 dB differences. So it may be a problem in measuring. The butyl damper can be applied across large spaces like door panels by applying small areas of it at distances designed to cancel harmonics. So place them at 1/3, 1/5, 1/7 distances across an area. Try and avoid the even numbers as they can still vibrate on the even distances ie 1/2, 1/4 etc
A nice video explaining what you did to insulate the car.
Thanks for adding to this is such a thoughtful way. Appreciate it!
Change the tires and get alloy rims. That will make alot of difference!
Yes, this is on my to-do list! I want some nice black Aygo ones you see on the higher-end models. Thanks for the suggestion!
At first I thought my new Pioneer speakers were rubbish. The sound was very resonant at first, the bass reproduction was very thin and ugly. After I flattened the doors inside with this stuff I couldn't believe my ears! The bass now sounds so incredibly full and deep! My bass setting was first set to +7 after everything was done, it is at -1 😃
Nice! Love this.
I see you haven't posted in a while I was worried I had been unsubbed or something, Good to have you back! Unfortunately I don't have my Aygo anymore I traded it in for a 2019 Mini Cooper Sport and its a great little upgrade from the Aygo! I will probably apply some sound deadning to it as the road noise is noticable at speed or on uneven roads
Glad you stuck around. Thank you! Awesome that you got a new car and by the sounds of it, you're enjoying it as a nice little upgrade. In honesty, I won't stay Aygo forever and more broadly I'm a lover of cars, so I hope to get quite a few on the channel going forward! Thanks for sticking around!
Hey Jamie, I hope you do make these audio level displays by using both footages in the same file. If you open the before and after recordings separately, your 0 reference point will change, reducing the difference in decibels (meaning you have better effect irl than we see on these displays)
edit: if you use any cheapo external mic in a laptop and manually set sensitivity in windows advanced sound settings, your gain won't change by itself
Hey! Yes, the audio is recorded using an external mic on an iPhone so gain is the same across all tests to make it a fair comparison.
Great video again! I’ve missed your great video’s!😢 Good that you are back!😃
Thank you so much! It's good to be back. I will be taking a slower, more measured approach initially, but will hope to ramp up videos again soon!
Jusr fit a amp with bigger speakers 😊
I just might do that too, ha!
Confused - What does the kill mat do?
Hey, Roman. I’ve covered it in more depth in my newest video, so I’d encourage you to watch that. In essence, Kilmat (a brand of butyl mat) kills vibrations that travel through car panels. It’s the first layer you need to use when soundproofing your car. The second to put on top of that is closed cell foam and then you can put mass loaded vinyl on top of that where possible. The latter material is heavy and unless you have a decent adhesive, it will be hard to hang. It’s perfect for putting on the floor of the car, though.
I was looking at lining my car with killmat - but seeing yours already had it I now have doubts. Did killmat not make enough difference?
It does make a decent difference, but ideally you want to be lining it together with something like mass loaded vinyl or a cell-based sound dampening mat to make a real difference. Kilmat makes more of a difference at lower speeds and gets rid of panel vibration where as the mass loaded vinyl/sound-deadening mats will deal with wind noise at higher speeds, so that's why it's worth using both.
@@jamieaygo Thank you for the reply. I take Kilmat would be more suitable for larger panels to reduce vibration but "thickening" them - whereas mass loaded vinyl more suited to wheel arches?
Mass loaded vinyl is tough to bend, so doesn't really lend well to wheel arches. It's worth using a lighter cell-based mat for the wheel arches. I've put mass loaded vinyl on the inside of the car on flat surfaces where it doesn't need much bending or contorting like the boot and footwells. I know some people may use it on wheel arches, but you'd need to use something like No More Nails to stick it down, which is a real faff.
To add, I'd worry that the stuff would peel off and get caught in the wheels while driving.
You need more than just killmat, personally I'd just change to a quieter car or if you're due a tire change buy some really quiet tires as that's going to make a huge difference, if your car has a lot of resonance you should stick down some butyl pads on large open surfaces to change the resonant frequency, which is what it's meant to do, it doesn't dampen sound, it dampens vibrations which in turn reduce the amount of sound created.
There are FAR better vids than this about the topic with actual proper a/b testing, methodology and reasoning but the gist of it is that you can't change a noisy car into a quiet one, there's a lot more than just some dampening material that goes into it.
just put on Michelin tires
Yes, very much on the list!
All that money and faff for one decibel, seriously?... Not worth it at all. And that vinyl stuff is quite heavy in larger amounts too.
it's worth doing the whole car for the full affect, which is what I am doing but it takes a long time. Even if you end up only knocking a few decibels off, it is still worth it because with sound being measured logarithmically, you ear will hear a 50% drop with just a few decibels shaved off.