Thanks for the video, we now have to replace the motor in my lad's XG ute for this exact reason, as the auxiliary drive shaft ended up chewing into the block. It's a shame they dont have a bearing to house them.
Holly shit that's a bummer. I did even consider changing over to the EF coil pack system to avoid all this, but if you can get a dizzy in there with OEM drive gear you should be ok? Good luck with your repair 👍
I brought a xh 96 series one xr6 Ute about five years ago it had the el model red cover engine with the dizzy in underneath the bbm intake manifold the Ute is a manual with the xr 3.45.1 lsd diff quite fun to drive I done a huge Summernats style burn out in the Ute and pretty much cooked the engine got it really hot blew the head off it basically blew both back tyres anyway after that I got on fb marketplace and found a series one intech AU xr6 engine with low ks on it and put it the Ute and yes I had to cut and modify the alloy sump for it to fit into the xh k frame I dropped in the other blown engines dizzy and worked how to time it by bridging two pins in the diagnosis plug so I could get the ecu in limp mode otherwise I had one minute to get my base timing correct I found being a xr6 Ute in the workshop manual told me that the position of the dizzy is in a different position to the base model gli el or log manifold Longreach Ute so after removing the dizzy three times and moving it around a few teeth at a time I eventually, got the timing correct I found driving it in between pulling the dizzy out three times the engine lacked power and would run lots hotter until I found the correct tooth and dizzy position after that she has balls again no getting hot 🔥.. but what I’m trying to say here is I never had a issue with the cog ⚙️ playing up in the AU engine three years running.. I’m lucky!! By rights I should of put the AU synchroniser cog on my el Xh dizzy but the engine didn’t come with that bit the other thing I’ve done was brought a whole Ef engine harness and dash loom to get rid of the el xh dizzy and pulled out my whole dash to do so but seems a little hard for me to do and I’ve put it back to the original XH wiring loom gave up on the idea of trying to run no dizzy in my xh Ute
I considered changing to the EF type setup at one stage just to eliminate the dizzy issues. The after market ones seem to die way too soon. Got my setup sorted so shelved the plan.
Excellent video. I have to take my dizzy out today, car playing up, but nobody knows what is causing it. I have heard about changing the drive gear over on new dizzies also. Will look for your re-assembly video. Have never touched a dizzy before.
These are good engines ive heard of this before but when i was told about this it could also be caused by low engine oil a common fault but glad you sussed it out and got it fixed also i didnt know about the striped gear from the cheap disy good info .
G'day Mark, excellent job on the old EL. Very helpful. I am in the exact same predicament, and just wondering if you have uploaded the reassembly video, if so what is the title. I can't find it. Thanks again.
Hey Paul, thanks for the positive comment, glad you enjoyed the video. Hmm...the reassembly video was the one that got away. I did video most of it but between having a hard time getting the job done and making the video as I went, just never came together. I ended up putting a new timing chain kit in while it was apart, recommend doing that. Had to drop the sump down best I could to make it easier to put the timing cover back on. Got the chain 1 tooth out so had to redo it again. Yeh it snowballed a bit and videoing became not as important as getting it right...so only got limited footage. Have considered uploading what I did get a few times but it fell short of what I like to put out there. If you have any questions please ask and will see if I can help. Cheers, Mark
Did mine ten years ago bloke at auto shop argued they never strip I said mine has and he looked at me like I was a dick head any way all fixed and still going to this day great cars last for ever.
G'day again Mark, Thank you for your prompt reply to my enquiry about the reassembly videos of the EL aux. shaft job you did. Just one question though, how much trouble was it to loosen the sump off and lowering it ? Can the sump be removed completely with the engine in the vehicle ? Thanks again Mark.
Hey Paul, the sump can be dropped easily but only an inch or two then it hits the cross member. Thats enough to do the job but make sure you wipe the sealing face down best you can and drop a bit of RTV on it to ensure the sump doesnt leak after. Yeh its a tight squeeze getting your finger between the sump and block to do that but its worth it....so is going the extra mile to put in a timing chain kit. My EL is now running the best it has run in years. BTW I had to replace the damper at the front because it had spun the outer pulley on the inner hub almost a complete half turn. I couldnt nut out the timing until I realized this had shat itself. I watched the footage of my reassembly video and might try cobbling it together to make a complete vid. Stay tuned :-) Cheers, Mark
hey mate mine has broken the bolt off the auxiliary gear and sheared the dowl, having a hard time getting the auxiliary shaft out. Also how do you go about getting everything back timed right. Cheers in advance
Hey Billy, man you ask tough questions, gonna be hard to explain in a reply comment...but here goes. 2nd question 1st, google "el falcon timing chain marks" and check out some of the diagrams. Basically with #1 on top dead centre you line up the dots on the aux shaft and the crank. Then the dot on the cam is 3deg off parallel to the flat on the top of the head/rocker cover face. The diagrams will help explain. How to get there, well without the tensioner installed, loop you NEW chain over all 3 cogs. Using you finger as the tensioner, push the chain until the slack is out of it. If there is still slack between any of the cogs, take the pressure off and move the chain a link until it's not slack. It doesn't matter if there is still some in the long bit where the tensioner goes cos that gets taken up. The trick is to push the chain tight as described, have no slack between any of the other cogs...and have those 3 dots lined up correctly. Yep not easy but do-able if you keep your cool and keep at it.
Ok getting the shaft out. It's really hard to know what you have there but broken off bolt and sheared dowl isn't that big a deal cos your putting another aux shaft in anyway. Love to know how the hell they both snapped off though??. Anyway what's done is done it's a matter of getting the rest of it out. So, distributer out, timing chain tensioner out, including the plunger further inside after the cap is removed. Front engine pulley off, timing chain cover off, might need to drop the sump down a bit and take rocker cover off. Bolt comes out using an impact drill and socket. Cog comes off with a light tap. Shaft retainer plate has 2 Allen head bolts, they are soft so make sure you tap the driver bit in firmly before swinging off it to loosen them. If you can't pull the aux shaft out by hand, might be able to get some vice grips or channel locks around it. Maybe a long screwdriver down the dizzy hole and lever on the drive gear? If you do that don't chew up the edges of the hole because the dizzy has an O ring that has to seal. Not sure what else to tell you...if you can get a bolt in the front you can put a slide hammer on it perhaps. Good luck with it, hope I have helped. Cheers. Mark
I think this is the issue with my EL, was driving and it just stopped, someone had fitted the after market distributor. Pulled the dizzy and the gear is chewed out. So I guess I will have to do this.
It's a bit of a shitty situation and a big job just because of a seemingly small issue. Good luck with getting your car back on the road and I am glad you got some value for the video 👍
@@markxtinkering I am going to change everything while I am doing it. Have bought a new water pump, ordered new pulleys, new belt, new leads, new spark plugs, new distributor, new coil etc etc , car has been in the family since new, just converted it to manual. We have two EL's (my son has one) so keeping all the other parts for spares. Even thinking of dropping a stage three cam and crow valve springs into it. I will be making a video about it as well.
@@markxtinkering put an aftetmarket disi in, but had to wait for engine builder and done interior instead. Thanks for vid, oem from now on, definitely for electrics.
Agreed, a bit cheap and nasty. The thing is I got my replacement item from a local parts store, but I guess they are all made in the same place (country) anyway.
In my opinion Ford got it right with EF and AU with no dizzy why ford went back to dizzy i don’t know why silly in my opinion when crank angle sensor and coil pack is way better than the stupid, dizzy
Agreed, I think ford had reliability issues with the coils packs at one stage? so may have influenced the decision?? I have a BF now so problem sorted 😁
Thanks for the video, we now have to replace the motor in my lad's XG ute for this exact reason, as the auxiliary drive shaft ended up chewing into the block. It's a shame they dont have a bearing to house them.
Holly shit that's a bummer. I did even consider changing over to the EF coil pack system to avoid all this, but if you can get a dizzy in there with OEM drive gear you should be ok?
Good luck with your repair 👍
Your a gentleman to give the money back. These a lot of low lives that wouldn't... great video...! 🍻
Thanks Leigh and glad you liked the video 👍👍
Cool video love your work
Thanks man, appreciate your feedback 👍👍
I brought a xh 96 series one xr6 Ute about five years ago it had the el model red cover engine with the dizzy in underneath the bbm intake manifold the Ute is a manual with the xr 3.45.1 lsd diff quite fun to drive I done a huge Summernats style burn out in the Ute and pretty much cooked the engine got it really hot blew the head off it basically blew both back tyres anyway after that I got on fb marketplace and found a series one intech AU xr6 engine with low ks on it and put it the Ute and yes I had to cut and modify the alloy sump for it to fit into the xh k frame I dropped in the other blown engines dizzy and worked how to time it by bridging two pins in the diagnosis plug so I could get the ecu in limp mode otherwise I had one minute to get my base timing correct I found being a xr6 Ute in the workshop manual told me that the position of the dizzy is in a different position to the base model gli el or log manifold Longreach Ute so after removing the dizzy three times and moving it around a few teeth at a time I eventually, got the timing correct I found driving it in between pulling the dizzy out three times the engine lacked power and would run lots hotter until I found the correct tooth and dizzy position after that she has balls again no getting hot 🔥.. but what I’m trying to say here is I never had a issue with the cog ⚙️ playing up in the AU engine three years running.. I’m lucky!! By rights I should of put the AU synchroniser cog on my el Xh dizzy but the engine didn’t come with that bit the other thing I’ve done was brought a whole Ef engine harness and dash loom to get rid of the el xh dizzy and pulled out my whole dash to do so but seems a little hard for me to do and I’ve put it back to the original XH wiring loom gave up on the idea of trying to run no dizzy in my xh Ute
I considered changing to the EF type setup at one stage just to eliminate the dizzy issues. The after market ones seem to die way too soon. Got my setup sorted so shelved the plan.
Excellent video. I have to take my dizzy out today, car playing up, but nobody knows what is causing it. I have heard about changing the drive gear over on new dizzies also. Will look for your re-assembly video. Have never touched a dizzy before.
Glad you enjoyed the video geof, reassembly video is my most recent upload. Hope it's helpful. Cheers, Mark
Thanks Mark. I'm having seeing the teeth on mine, eyes are the greatest. What is the specific name of the piece you replaced?
To my understanding it is called the Auxiliary drive shaft...or just Auxiliary shaft?
Legend mate thanks heaps
Alex glad you got some value from the vid'
These are good engines ive heard of this before but when i was told about this it could also be caused by low engine oil a common fault but glad you sussed it out and got it fixed also i didnt know about the striped gear from the cheap disy good info .
Cheers mr cactus, thanks for the comment and glad you liked the video 👍👍
G'day Mark, excellent job on the old EL. Very helpful. I am in the exact same predicament, and just wondering if you have uploaded the reassembly video, if so what is the title. I can't find it. Thanks again.
Hey Paul, thanks for the positive comment, glad you enjoyed the video. Hmm...the reassembly video was the one that got away. I did video most of it but between having a hard time getting the job done and making the video as I went, just never came together. I ended up putting a new timing chain kit in while it was apart, recommend doing that. Had to drop the sump down best I could to make it easier to put the timing cover back on. Got the chain 1 tooth out so had to redo it again. Yeh it snowballed a bit and videoing became not as important as getting it right...so only got limited footage. Have considered uploading what I did get a few times but it fell short of what I like to put out there.
If you have any questions please ask and will see if I can help.
Cheers, Mark
Did mine ten years ago bloke at auto shop argued they never strip I said mine has and he looked at me like I was a dick head any way all fixed and still going to this day great cars last for ever.
Nice work Slipryeel, I guess seeing is believing because I sure didn't until mine shat itself. Glad you enjoyed the vid, long live the Falcon 👍👍😁
DID my time on taxis i did thousands of these they are very easy to do always fit new chain an guides since ur doing this drive shaft replacement
Check out pt2 reassembly 👍👍
G'day again Mark,
Thank you for your prompt reply to my enquiry about the reassembly videos of the EL aux. shaft job you did. Just one question though, how much trouble was it to loosen the sump off and lowering it ? Can the sump be removed completely with the engine in the vehicle ?
Thanks again Mark.
Hey Paul, the sump can be dropped easily but only an inch or two then it hits the cross member. Thats enough to do the job but make sure you wipe the sealing face down best you can and drop a bit of RTV on it to ensure the sump doesnt leak after. Yeh its a tight squeeze getting your finger between the sump and block to do that but its worth it....so is going the extra mile to put in a timing chain kit. My EL is now running the best it has run in years. BTW I had to replace the damper at the front because it had spun the outer pulley on the inner hub almost a complete half turn. I couldnt nut out the timing until I realized this had shat itself.
I watched the footage of my reassembly video and might try cobbling it together to make a complete vid. Stay tuned :-)
Cheers, Mark
@@markxtinkering
Thanks again Mark for your reply, you have been a fantastic help, looking forward to seeing the video.
Cheers Paul
Thankyou
Glad the video helped 👍👍
hey mate mine has broken the bolt off the auxiliary gear and sheared the dowl, having a hard time getting the auxiliary shaft out. Also how do you go about getting everything back timed right. Cheers in advance
Hey Billy, man you ask tough questions, gonna be hard to explain in a reply comment...but here goes. 2nd question 1st, google "el falcon timing chain marks" and check out some of the diagrams. Basically with #1 on top dead centre you line up the dots on the aux shaft and the crank. Then the dot on the cam is 3deg off parallel to the flat on the top of the head/rocker cover face. The diagrams will help explain. How to get there, well without the tensioner installed, loop you NEW chain over all 3 cogs. Using you finger as the tensioner, push the chain until the slack is out of it. If there is still slack between any of the cogs, take the pressure off and move the chain a link until it's not slack. It doesn't matter if there is still some in the long bit where the tensioner goes cos that gets taken up. The trick is to push the chain tight as described, have no slack between any of the other cogs...and have those 3 dots lined up correctly. Yep not easy but do-able if you keep your cool and keep at it.
Ok getting the shaft out. It's really hard to know what you have there but broken off bolt and sheared dowl isn't that big a deal cos your putting another aux shaft in anyway. Love to know how the hell they both snapped off though??. Anyway what's done is done it's a matter of getting the rest of it out. So, distributer out, timing chain tensioner out, including the plunger further inside after the cap is removed. Front engine pulley off, timing chain cover off, might need to drop the sump down a bit and take rocker cover off. Bolt comes out using an impact drill and socket. Cog comes off with a light tap. Shaft retainer plate has 2 Allen head bolts, they are soft so make sure you tap the driver bit in firmly before swinging off it to loosen them. If you can't pull the aux shaft out by hand, might be able to get some vice grips or channel locks around it. Maybe a long screwdriver down the dizzy hole and lever on the drive gear? If you do that don't chew up the edges of the hole because the dizzy has an O ring that has to seal. Not sure what else to tell you...if you can get a bolt in the front you can put a slide hammer on it perhaps.
Good luck with it, hope I have helped.
Cheers. Mark
I think this is the issue with my EL, was driving and it just stopped, someone had fitted the after market distributor. Pulled the dizzy and the gear is chewed out. So I guess I will have to do this.
It's a bit of a shitty situation and a big job just because of a seemingly small issue. Good luck with getting your car back on the road and I am glad you got some value for the video 👍
@@markxtinkering I am going to change everything while I am doing it. Have bought a new water pump, ordered new pulleys, new belt, new leads, new spark plugs, new distributor, new coil etc etc , car has been in the family since new, just converted it to manual. We have two EL's (my son has one) so keeping all the other parts for spares. Even thinking of dropping a stage three cam and crow valve springs into it. I will be making a video about it as well.
Awesome, look forward to seeing the vid 👍👍
Thank you very much, i was about to make a huge mistake i see. 👍👍
What were you about to do?
@@markxtinkering put an aftetmarket disi in, but had to wait for engine builder and done interior instead. Thanks for vid, oem from now on, definitely for electrics.
Good luck with your build David,
cheers, Mark
Ebay dizzys will chew your aux gear unless you use the old gear
Agreed, a bit cheap and nasty. The thing is I got my replacement item from a local parts store, but I guess they are all made in the same place (country) anyway.
@@markxtinkering As trump said...its comes from chinnna
In my opinion Ford got it right with EF and AU with no dizzy why ford went back to dizzy i don’t know why silly in my opinion when crank angle sensor and coil pack is way better than the stupid, dizzy
Agreed, I think ford had reliability issues with the coils packs at one stage? so may have influenced the decision?? I have a BF now so problem sorted 😁
@@markxtinkering bf is one of my favourite newer models in falcons
I've got a few vids fixing it up 👍
@@markxtinkering I like watching your videos you’re a down to earth good fella and you explain everything in normal manner
Cheers mate 👍👍