Thank you Mark, I am watching your videos very closely with your fantastic skill set and knowledge as I have gone back to a 2004 BA Fairmont with Dual Fuel IMPCO Vapor Injection and only 175000 kms for my 17 year old son. We bought it from an older gentleman and in doing so we have learnt the hard way to sort out all the servicing needed to get this car right. I like this car so much and I also found a 2003 BA Fairmont Ghia for myself. Together with my son we are leaning all sorts of fixers to our cars thanks to your videos we eagerly like to watch. Thank you so much for your great teachings. 👍 👌 👏
Hey Ray, thanks so much for you comments, I appreciate your great feedback and kind words. Good luck with your father/son projects, that must be very special for bonding with each other. I enjoy fixing and restoring but also the value others get from my videos...so it's my pleasure to make them for people like yourself. Cheers, Mark
Thanks very much for putting up this video and the many others you've done. Really well explained and filmed. You do a great job and it's much appreciated. Not easy to film, talk and work. I've had a BA egas ute for the last ten years or so, it's been the best car I've ever owned. Your videos have been an amazing resource for giving it some much needed tlc. Thanks again. Matt
Hey Matt, thanks so much for your amazing compliments and words of support . Great to hear that you have been able to give some love to your ute. Thanks again for watching, Cheers, Mark
Great job.I have replaced stearing bush,sway bar nolathane bushes,low control arm ball joins, and also important inner uper control arm nolathane bushes,ball joins too and my stearing is more stable and better then before.I think uper inner control arm was efecting my camber and I have got tyers warn more even.On all nuts and bolts I'm more specific with torque spec.and blue theed lock.You have written on stering rack spec. lock nuts should be 80Nm,botom ball join and uper control arm 90Nm,caliper bracket bolts 115 Nm.I think when I lock everything with specification I fell more happy and saved everything is done by spec.
Hey Stevan, thanks for your positive feedback. I agree with the piece of mind with the torque spec. I actually work in an area where EVERYTHING has to be torqued, so why don't I do that on my own car? Good question. I guess you get a feel for how tight stuff should be after a while and use you calibrated elbow 👍🤣
Hi Markx, Thanks for complete front suspension job video. Me, I tried to figure it out how to remove inner/rear bolts from the front lower control arm (same as you did), as they're blocked by tie rod rubber boot , as well as the tie rod ball joint itself inside there. Trying to push the tie rod away but not enough space to get the bolts out. I think I have to remove the tie rod , but that's harder. Any recommendations?
Hey VAY, thanks for your positive feedback, much appreciated. As far as that bolt goes, it's a bit of a shity one, but guess I'm not telling you anything new 💩 From memory I turned the steering wheel all the way in one direction?? I did have the tie rod disconnected from the outer mount at the time so that might have helped? It's been a while so hard to remember exactly but did have a little trouble with that one. Make sure you turn the bolt so that aligning tab is not interfering as you try to get it past the tie rod arm. Hope some of that helps? I'm guessing you might have it sorted anyway by the time you read this. Good luck with your project. Regards Mark
Hi Mark, Thanks for being around, advising me on getting suspension done. Well, I gave up I just put bolts of the front lower arms back on. Just replacing all ball joints and upper control arm bushes. That's it. Regards Vay
Hey VAY, that's ok about the advise, it's not the easiest of jobs and someone else always makes it look easy. At least you gave it a go...the ball joints are usually the main problem anyway. Cheers, Mark
It did take me a bit of giggling to get that bolt out from memory. Perhaps try un-bolting the power steering rack and move it back a bit. You just need a little bit more room and the bolt will edge past it. Might have to come out on a slight angle so make sure you have the weight supported on the cross member not the suspension arms. Good luck. Hope you get it sorted. Cheers, Mark
Gday mate good job im in the same boat about to do mine except the shockers, ur vid is very helpful, detailed & explained unlike some other vids on this topic that just rush thru, just wondering with the washer u used on the rack bush was that something u had lying around. Cheers
Hey Ken, glad you got some value from the video, and thanks for your positive feedback, much appreciated. Yes that washer was from my stash of bits and pieces. Not standard but seemed a good idea. I try to tell the story so that it helps the next guy out and feels they know enough to have a go themselves. Good luck with your project. Cheers, Mark
@@markxtinkering Thanks Mark that washer is a good idea hope I can find something that big but as thin, alot at that size are thick cheers again.....Ken
Thank you Mark, I am watching your videos very closely with your fantastic skill set and knowledge as I have gone back to a 2004 BA Fairmont with Dual Fuel IMPCO Vapor Injection and only 175000 kms for my 17 year old son. We bought it from an older gentleman and in doing so we have learnt the hard way to sort out all the servicing needed to get this car right. I like this car so much and I also found a 2003 BA Fairmont Ghia for myself. Together with my son we are leaning all sorts of fixers to our cars thanks to your videos we eagerly like to watch. Thank you so much for your great teachings. 👍 👌 👏
Hey Ray, thanks so much for you comments, I appreciate your great feedback and kind words. Good luck with your father/son projects, that must be very special for bonding with each other.
I enjoy fixing and restoring but also the value others get from my videos...so it's my pleasure to make them for people like yourself.
Cheers,
Mark
Another great job well done. You did well with that doner wagon 👍
Cheers Andrew, it was a mates car from work, so i was in the right place at the right time.
Glad you enjoyed the vid 👍👍
Thanks very much for putting up this video and the many others you've done. Really well explained and filmed. You do a great job and it's much appreciated. Not easy to film, talk and work. I've had a BA egas ute for the last ten years or so, it's been the best car I've ever owned. Your videos have been an amazing resource for giving it some much needed tlc. Thanks again. Matt
Hey Matt, thanks so much for your amazing compliments and words of support . Great to hear that you have been able to give some love to your ute.
Thanks again for watching,
Cheers, Mark
I wish I bought my bf wagon from someone like you, would have nothing to do, Great! I like your work very thorough like I am.
Cheers, thanks again Simon. Your positive comments are much appreciated.
Great job mate.
Looking forward to watching the rest of your videos.👍
Thanks Paul, glad you enjoyed and appreciate the comment.
Perfect video, im gonna be changing my control arms later with the help of my uncle and this is an awesome example! cheers mate
Glad you got some value Riley, good luck with your repair.
Cheers, Mark
excellent content. very helpfull as I'm about to do all the balljoints on my BA.
Glad it helped
Awesome!
great job with car and video !
Thanks panfon, glad you enjoyed the video, appreciate your positive feedback.
Cheers, Mark
Great job.I have replaced stearing bush,sway bar nolathane bushes,low control arm ball joins, and also important inner uper control arm nolathane bushes,ball joins too and my stearing is more stable and better then before.I think uper inner control arm was efecting my camber and I have got tyers warn more even.On all nuts and bolts I'm more specific with torque spec.and blue theed lock.You have written on stering rack spec. lock nuts should be 80Nm,botom ball join and uper control arm 90Nm,caliper bracket bolts 115 Nm.I think when I lock everything with specification I fell more happy and saved everything is done by spec.
Hey Stevan, thanks for your positive feedback. I agree with the piece of mind with the torque spec. I actually work in an area where EVERYTHING has to be torqued, so why don't I do that on my own car? Good question. I guess you get a feel for how tight stuff should be after a while and use you calibrated elbow 👍🤣
Nice one mate. Good content and you definitely deserve more subscribers!
Cheers Tony, thanks for the positive comment, I'm sure the subscribers will come in time, until then glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Mark
Nice one mate. Got to do the same job on my BF MkII soon. Apparently 400000km's is all you get out of a front end these days ;-)
Especially if you buy an ex-taxi :-)
@@markxtinkering mine went at 200,000km 💀
Thanks for watching Matt, good luck with your front end project 👍👍
really good thanks
Awesome video cheers 👍
Thanks for your positive feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Mark
Hey mate how does it drive with the ba front shocks ? Im trying to find shocks for my bf wagon 2010 no one seems to have it
Drives fine, I've had no issues with anything hitting or knocking and wheel aligned fine.
Hi Markx,
Thanks for complete front suspension job video. Me, I tried to figure it out how to remove inner/rear bolts from the front lower control arm (same as you did), as they're blocked by tie rod rubber boot , as well as the tie rod ball joint itself inside there. Trying to push the tie rod away but not enough space to get the bolts out. I think I have to remove the tie rod , but that's harder. Any recommendations?
Hey VAY, thanks for your positive feedback, much appreciated. As far as that bolt goes, it's a bit of a shity one, but guess I'm not telling you anything new 💩
From memory I turned the steering wheel all the way in one direction?? I did have the tie rod disconnected from the outer mount at the time so that might have helped? It's been a while so hard to remember exactly but did have a little trouble with that one. Make sure you turn the bolt so that aligning tab is not interfering as you try to get it past the tie rod arm.
Hope some of that helps? I'm guessing you might have it sorted anyway by the time you read this.
Good luck with your project.
Regards Mark
Hi Mark,
Thanks for being around, advising me on getting suspension done. Well, I gave up I just put bolts of the front lower arms back on. Just replacing all ball joints and upper control arm bushes. That's it.
Regards
Vay
Hey VAY, that's ok about the advise, it's not the easiest of jobs and someone else always makes it look easy. At least you gave it a go...the ball joints are usually the main problem anyway.
Cheers, Mark
I was unable to remove the lower control arm bolt due to the fact the power steering was in the way hard up against the rubber boot any ideas.
It did take me a bit of giggling to get that bolt out from memory. Perhaps try un-bolting the power steering rack and move it back a bit. You just need a little bit more room and the bolt will edge past it. Might have to come out on a slight angle so make sure you have the weight supported on the cross member not the suspension arms.
Good luck. Hope you get it sorted.
Cheers, Mark
Gday mate good job im in the same boat about to do mine except the shockers, ur vid is very helpful, detailed & explained unlike some other vids on this topic that just rush thru, just wondering with the washer u used on the rack bush was that something u had lying around. Cheers
Hey Ken, glad you got some value from the video, and thanks for your positive feedback, much appreciated. Yes that washer was from my stash of bits and pieces. Not standard but seemed a good idea. I try to tell the story so that it helps the next guy out and feels they know enough to have a go themselves. Good luck with your project. Cheers, Mark
@@markxtinkering Thanks Mark that washer is a good idea hope I can find something that big but as thin, alot at that size are thick cheers again.....Ken
Do the back end!
Done...check out the last video in the series.