you found a very smart way of removeing and installing the oil pan,,i wish your video would show more of how you lifted the engine from the bottom and the top...thanks for sharing....
That was my question to how did you lift the engine? See you had a jack underneath on the differential? Please help me my fiance's Jeep oil pan is rotted so bad I'm afraid of her drive in it I don't want her to get in an accident because of it
Thank you for this video. I did it your way and it worked great. The only thing i had to do was remove the driveshaft yoke to clear the pan. I did not have as much room as you did.Thank you again for sharing.
It has been a few years since I did mine but you mainly get the front diff down and out of the way for space. It is tight but it will come out. On my 06 Renegade the skid plates had to go too.
I started this method, but didn't want to remove the transmission lines. If you remove the back two engine cradle bolts, you have a ton more room and trans lines can stay put. It's a lot easier to get the pan in/out too.
Great video really helped, but mine is a 03 4wd and had the catalytic converter in the way. so i use this method to change pickup tube and oil pan gasket without removing the entire pan from the vehicle. little ruff but do-able easier than pulling motor or taking out front axel. Thanks!
My '08 Liberty 4X4 has a bracket welded to the subframe. It has two bolts that hold the front differential. That bracket prevents me from sliding the oil pan out this way. Unless I jack up the engine really high and clear the bell housing. Any advice or ideas?
My exhaust was not the same on my 02. I had to remove my y pipe and Jack up the engine to all hell. I also had to cut my old one out because it's bigger then the aftermarket
@@karapayne07 I sent it to a shop and let them deal with it.. Also had them do the heater core as well which the entire dash had to come out.. So oil pan and heater core and a ball joint cost me $1700 parts and labor and I am happy not to have to do either of them myself.
I used a floor jack with a support I made from 2"x6" material. The support was an inverted "T" that sat on the floor jack and it fit right behind the crank pulley. You can see the floor jack with the support in the video. It worked great.
Bilxx..how did you access the driver side lower motor mount to loosen it? On my 2003 Liberty Renegade 4x4,the front differential is totally blocking the motor mount? Tks!
I had clear access to loosen the center bolt, you can see it at around 3:09 mark in the video. It is right above the front diff case, like you say but once I removed the front drive shaft there was room to get at the mount center bolt. I was using a very long extension with a universal joint. I actually had a harder time with the mount on the passenger side. Overall, though, it wasn't bad, when my arms got tired or I got frustrated I just stopped and took a coffee break.
I jacked up the engine in the very front, right behind the front crank pulley. I made a support. that looked like an inverted "T" that sat on the floor jack and I made it so it wouldn't interfere with the front of the oil pan and I supported the engine up top with a support I bought from Harbor Freight. I loosened the center bolt of the engine mounts, didn't unbolt the mount halves.
Hi Bill! I need to do the same thing to my Jeep. Any pointers on lifting the engine? Where did you attach the chain? Looking at the AllData sheets, it looks like this might take a custom lift plate and removal of the intake manifold to bolt it on. Any thoughts on an easier way?
Hi Joe. I raised the engine from below using a support I made sitting on top of a floor jack and I used an engine support bar (I bought from Harbor Freight) on top. This gave me two points of support. I only loosened the center engine mount bolt nuts enough to allow separation of the engine mount halves.I used a 2x6 to make an inverted "T" to sit on the floor jack. On the top end of the support I nailed a 2x2 and then I nailed a 1x 7/8 wide on top the 2x2. The support fits right behind the crank pulley and doesn't interfere with the front pan lip. I used steel tee plates (from Home Depot) to secure the 2x6 pieces in a perpendicular position squared up.I raised the engine to a point where I felt it stop, I didn't go any further.Note: Before beginning, I blocked the rear wheels and had the trans in Park with the park brake engaged and the front was held up with a total of 4 jack stands, 2 ea. side.I removed both front wheels for max space in the front.I hope this is helpful and feel free to ask for any further info, however, please understand I'm only telling you what I did and this isn't meant to be instructional. I can't be held responsible or liable for others actions or results from doing this.
Note: I attached the support bar chains to a stud in the middle front of the engine. A video by Buena Vibra at the 9 minute mark shows how he did this. While Buena Vibra used an engine hoist to raise the engine I raised engine from below and only used the support on top to support the engine.Buena Vibra video: th-cam.com/video/NmOuAhISWGE/w-d-xo.html
Matthew, it came out great, not much to see except the oil pan in place and no leak and it's still going great with the new oil pan I installed. Thanks for the nice comment.
well my front drive shaft is out...can't get pass my hub...no possible way..I guess are vehicle years are so far apart this doesn't a apply for me...how did separate the gaskets from the pan on the hub side.. how did you to the gasket bolt on the hub side..did you use a large end wrench...If someone already had it out..you would you need a video how to put back it in...
This does NOT work on a 2002 Liberty. There is not near enough room. Cant get to engine motor mounts and If you could they would need to be completely unbolted in order to move engine any. The cross member under engine is much thicker on a 2002. No room. I am now in the process of removing the front axle in order to get to oil pan.
@@billxx1948 I ended up calling tow truck and took it nearest auto shop. They removed the whole front end/drive system to complete the job. It was expensive..
On my 2003. I accessed the motor mount bolts this fine, with my impact gun, to boot. Passenger side was simple. Drivers side you have to take the drain channel for the oil filter off to get to the bolt for the motor mount. But at the end of the day you still have to drop the front axle to acquire enough room to get the pan out.
@@5153flash if a shop told me it would be $500 to replace the pan- I would have gladly paid it after doing this job in my garage with the Jeep on jack stands.
Yes yes let's be very by very vague about the most important part which is picking up the engine..o hey how did you do that? Nah nevermind we don't need to know.. hey thanks for nothing
Working on an 06 and this did not work at all, I even removed the yoke off the end of the differential for extra room and lifted the engine pretty high but I still did not have enough clearance to make the turn. Had to pull the differential, wish I had just attacked it first as it wasn't that bad to drop it down. No hate just wanted to say this did not work for me
thank you for your feedback, I am planning to do this with my 2006. Can you provide me with any information on how is best to drop the differential down. Thank you!
@@curtisbaugher4904 there's 2 bolts on each side that are the diff mounts, and I removed the 3 bolts from the bracket on the front and let it swing down as you cannot remove that bracket because the direction they put the bolt in. Same thing on bracket on passenger side, I took out the 2 bolts on top and loosened the bracket bolt to let it swing down. On drivers side I had to remove the knuckle so that the axle would come out and I let the axle hang there... for passenger side I was able to leave the axle in the car, but with help I diagonally lowered the diff while letting the passenger axle slide out of the diff tube. I also pulled off the yoke which gave me a little more room
I did my 2006 too. I raised the engine, measured rise at 1.5" on passenger side (measured from bottom of bolt to bottom of channel on rear side of motor mount), and about 1 3/8 on left side. Put short length of 2x4 under bottom engine pulley to support engine, with jack as second safety support. Had to remove the plastic oil drain channel for the filter, (one nut+ one bolt) to get access to the driver side motor mount bolt. Did not remove the trans cooler lines, did not remove the differential yoke. Removed the 3 bolts and 3 nut/bolt combinations holding the differential, and then removed the one large bolt mounting axle on right side, so it could pivot down. The axle was like wiggly noodle. I had the car about 50% supported by stands on the frame and 50% by 4x4+2x4 under front wheels, so that the wheels could droop down. The droop allows the axle to drop a bit further, which I believe is very important.. Rotated the pan, removed the pan gasket and just pulled the pan out relatively easily. Incredible idea rotating the pan, my compliments to Billxx
Did you have to replace your seal and use a new pinion nut when putting it back together? I just replaced the oil pan on my '06. This did not really work for me either. After raising engine, removing driveshaft and moving transmission lines out of the way, I still did not have anywhere close to the space he had on the video- must be variances in different years. Dropped the differential down and still not enough room- had to remove the differential yoke which puked out the fluid, so I must need a new seal...and in my haste forgot to count the threads on the spline before removing pinion nut. My oil pan gasket was seized & rusted to the pan really bad, so I had to chisel around it to break that free. I was able to reach in there and disconnect the gasket and pull that out from the frontside to get it out of the way (already ordered new gasket anyways) and then I just carefully cut out the old pan with a small battery sawzall. Raised the engine a little bit more, and after many attempts to get the new pan in I was about ready to give up and pull axles and drop differential right down, but I wiped down the outside of the new pan with a coating of oil...and finally got it to slide in there. Never ever want to do that job again...
If you discovered this method yourself, my hat is off to you. If not I truly thank you for sharing this. It sure saved a world of work.
you found a very smart way of removeing and installing the oil pan,,i wish your video would show more of how you lifted the engine from the bottom and the top...thanks for sharing....
That was my question to how did you lift the engine? See you had a jack underneath on the differential? Please help me my fiance's Jeep oil pan is rotted so bad I'm afraid of her drive in it I don't want her to get in an accident because of it
Excellent, you saved me a boat load of time and work. And, I'm working off a lift, I see you're on the ground. Great job.
you're a master! save a me a headache. I was gonna drop the transfer case or lose the motor mounts
Thank you for the video. Helped me a ton with changing an oil pan on a Liberty.
Thank you for this video. I did it your way and it worked great. The only thing i had to do was remove the driveshaft yoke to clear the pan. I did not have as much room as you did.Thank you again for sharing.
Hey man, which one did you remove ? (Drive shaft ) passenger or driver ?
I suggest you wash the engine really good underneath this way when you install the new oil pan in no dirt Falls in.
It has been a few years since I did mine but you mainly get the front diff down and out of the way for space. It is tight but it will come out. On my 06 Renegade the skid plates had to go too.
I started this method, but didn't want to remove the transmission lines. If you remove the back two engine cradle bolts, you have a ton more room and trans lines can stay put. It's a lot easier to get the pan in/out too.
Anyway you can help me with locating these two bolts?
Great video really helped, but mine is a 03 4wd and had the catalytic converter in the way. so i use this method to change pickup tube and oil pan gasket without removing the entire pan from the vehicle. little ruff but do-able easier than pulling motor or taking out front axel. Thanks!
Omg thank you soo much this i
Was a life saver of a video
My '08 Liberty 4X4 has a bracket welded to the subframe. It has two bolts that hold the front differential. That bracket prevents me from sliding the oil pan out this way. Unless I jack up the engine really high and clear the bell housing. Any advice or ideas?
Same here I have a 08 4x4 Liberty same problem. Did you get it fixed and how did u go about it thanks!
I keep finding kjs... no kks... I have to do my oil pan in my 09 liberty
My exhaust was not the same on my 02. I had to remove my y pipe and Jack up the engine to all hell. I also had to cut my old one out because it's bigger then the aftermarket
I need to do this but I think I will trade it in instead.
is this the same thing with a dodge nitro 2007 ?
just wandering if it was the same or not? ...getting ready to do an 07 nitro
@@edsnyder9393 me too!!!!
@@edsnyder9393 how did you make out with your dodge nitro oil pan
@@karapayne07 I sent it to a shop and let them deal with it.. Also had them do the heater core as well which the entire dash had to come out.. So oil pan and heater core and a ball joint cost me $1700 parts and labor and I am happy not to have to do either of them myself.
How much would it cost if I was to go to a mechanic
1k
What did you do to raise the engine
I used a floor jack with a support I made from 2"x6" material. The support was an inverted "T" that sat on the floor jack and it fit right behind the crank pulley. You can see the floor jack with the support in the video. It worked great.
@@billxx1948 sorry I just meant what bolts, if any did you have to remove or maybe loosen to allow the motor to lift.
@@shevinsacrey5862 - I loosened the center motor mount bolt on each side of the engine.
Bilxx..how did you access the driver side lower motor mount to loosen it? On my 2003 Liberty Renegade 4x4,the front differential is totally blocking the motor mount? Tks!
I had clear access to loosen the center bolt, you can see it at around 3:09 mark in the video. It is right above the front diff case, like you say but once I removed the front drive shaft there was room to get at the mount center bolt. I was using a very long extension with a universal joint. I actually had a harder time with the mount on the passenger side. Overall, though, it wasn't bad, when my arms got tired or I got frustrated I just stopped and took a coffee break.
Do you raise up the motor ? Since you have chains on top
Yes, I raised the engine using a floor jack and a support. The chains were bolted to the engine on top and connected to the engine support on top.
Did you have to raise the engine or just the driveshaft and lines
Tim, I had to raise the engine. Dropping the front drive shaft and trans cooler lines opened it up a lot and made the job a whole lot easier.
Where did you jack up the engine from? and did you have to unbolt the engine mounts? or was the decompression enough?
I jacked up the engine in the very front, right behind the front crank pulley. I made a support. that looked like an inverted "T" that sat on the floor jack and I made it so it wouldn't interfere with the front of the oil pan and I supported the engine up top with a support I bought from Harbor Freight. I loosened the center bolt of the engine mounts, didn't unbolt the mount halves.
Hi Bill! I need to do the same thing to my Jeep. Any pointers on lifting the engine? Where did you attach the chain?
Looking at the AllData sheets, it looks like this might take a custom lift plate and removal of the intake manifold to bolt it on. Any thoughts on an easier way?
Hi Joe. I raised the engine from below using a support I made sitting on top of a floor jack and I used an engine support bar (I bought from Harbor Freight) on top. This gave me two points of support. I only loosened the center engine mount bolt nuts enough to allow separation of the engine mount halves.I used a 2x6 to make an inverted "T" to sit on the floor jack. On the top end of the support I nailed a 2x2 and then I nailed a 1x 7/8 wide on top the 2x2. The support fits right behind the crank pulley and doesn't interfere with the front pan lip. I used steel tee plates (from Home Depot) to secure the 2x6 pieces in a perpendicular position squared up.I raised the engine to a point where I felt it stop, I didn't go any further.Note: Before beginning, I blocked the rear wheels and had the trans in Park with the park brake engaged and the front was held up with a total of 4 jack stands, 2 ea. side.I removed both front wheels for max space in the front.I hope this is helpful and feel free to ask for any further info, however, please understand I'm only telling you what I did and this isn't meant to be instructional. I can't be held responsible or liable for others actions or results from doing this.
Note: I attached the support bar chains to a stud in the middle front of the engine. A video by Buena Vibra at the 9 minute mark shows how he did this. While Buena Vibra used an engine hoist to raise the engine I raised engine from below and only used the support on top to support the engine.Buena Vibra video: th-cam.com/video/NmOuAhISWGE/w-d-xo.html
in order to remove the oil pan on a jeep libirty,, you have to lift the engine out of the jeep.....
LMAO. No you don't.
Nope. It has been a few years since I did mine but you mainly get the front diff down and out of the way for space. It is tight but it will come out.
Did you not watch this exact video you're commenting on?
Just pulled my pan. Lifted engine with jack. Left the trans lines in place and removed the rear cradle bolts. Front diff is 100% bolted in place.
this woukld be a great video if you actually showed us how it came out...
Matthew, it came out great, not much to see except the oil pan in place and no leak and it's still going great with the new oil pan I installed. Thanks for the nice comment.
well my front drive shaft is out...can't get pass my hub...no possible way..I guess are vehicle years are so far apart this doesn't a apply for me...how did separate the gaskets from the pan on the hub side.. how did you to the gasket bolt on the hub side..did you use a large end wrench...If someone already had it out..you would you need a video how to put back it in...
Jeep made some cheap shit when the made these Libertys. Seems replacing the oil pan is very common!!!
fino
Why would such an intelligent man buy a jeep liberty? Puzzling
This does NOT work on a 2002 Liberty. There is not near enough room. Cant get to engine motor mounts and If you could they would need to be completely unbolted in order to move engine any. The cross member under engine is much thicker on a 2002. No room.
I am now in the process of removing the front axle in order to get to oil pan.
5153flash, this is good info and would be even better to understand any differences if you could post a video or even pictures.
@@billxx1948 I ended up calling tow truck and took it nearest auto shop. They removed the whole front end/drive system to complete the job. It was expensive..
On my 2003. I accessed the motor mount bolts this fine, with my impact gun, to boot. Passenger side was simple. Drivers side you have to take the drain channel for the oil filter off to get to the bolt for the motor mount. But at the end of the day you still have to drop the front axle to acquire enough room to get the pan out.
See my reply to Brandon A to see how to get access to left motor mount and droop wheels to make more space, I think it would work on the 02 too.
@@5153flash if a shop told me it would be $500 to replace the pan- I would have gladly paid it after doing this job in my garage with the Jeep on jack stands.
Yes yes let's be very by very vague about the most important part which is picking up the engine..o hey how did you do that? Nah nevermind we don't need to know.. hey thanks for nothing
Working on an 06 and this did not work at all, I even removed the yoke off the end of the differential for extra room and lifted the engine pretty high but I still did not have enough clearance to make the turn. Had to pull the differential, wish I had just attacked it first as it wasn't that bad to drop it down. No hate just wanted to say this did not work for me
thank you for your feedback, I am planning to do this with my 2006. Can you provide me with any information on how is best to drop the differential down. Thank you!
@@curtisbaugher4904 there's 2 bolts on each side that are the diff mounts, and I removed the 3 bolts from the bracket on the front and let it swing down as you cannot remove that bracket because the direction they put the bolt in. Same thing on bracket on passenger side, I took out the 2 bolts on top and loosened the bracket bolt to let it swing down. On drivers side I had to remove the knuckle so that the axle would come out and I let the axle hang there... for passenger side I was able to leave the axle in the car, but with help I diagonally lowered the diff while letting the passenger axle slide out of the diff tube. I also pulled off the yoke which gave me a little more room
I did my 2006 too. I raised the engine, measured rise at 1.5" on passenger side (measured from bottom of bolt to bottom of channel on rear side of motor mount), and about 1 3/8 on left side. Put short length of 2x4 under bottom engine pulley to support engine, with jack as second safety support. Had to remove the plastic oil drain channel for the filter, (one nut+ one bolt) to get access to the driver side motor mount bolt. Did not remove the trans cooler lines, did not remove the differential yoke. Removed the 3 bolts and 3 nut/bolt combinations holding the differential, and then removed the one large bolt mounting axle on right side, so it could pivot down. The axle was like wiggly noodle. I had the car about 50% supported by stands on the frame and 50% by 4x4+2x4 under front wheels, so that the wheels could droop down. The droop allows the axle to drop a bit further, which I believe is very important.. Rotated the pan, removed the pan gasket and just pulled the pan out relatively easily. Incredible idea rotating the pan, my compliments to Billxx
Did you have to replace your seal and use a new pinion nut when putting it back together?
I just replaced the oil pan on my '06. This did not really work for me either. After raising engine, removing driveshaft and moving transmission lines out of the way, I still did not have anywhere close to the space he had on the video- must be variances in different years. Dropped the differential down and still not enough room- had to remove the differential yoke which puked out the fluid, so I must need a new seal...and in my haste forgot to count the threads on the spline before removing pinion nut. My oil pan gasket was seized & rusted to the pan really bad, so I had to chisel around it to break that free. I was able to reach in there and disconnect the gasket and pull that out from the frontside to get it out of the way (already ordered new gasket anyways) and then I just carefully cut out the old pan with a small battery sawzall. Raised the engine a little bit more, and after many attempts to get the new pan in I was about ready to give up and pull axles and drop differential right down, but I wiped down the outside of the new pan with a coating of oil...and finally got it to slide in there. Never ever want to do that job again...