What happens when you wire the ground and neutral from the generator to the sub-panel. Would the neutral and ground connect to the corresponding busbars in the sub-panel? Even though the bonding is in the main disconnect? The generator has a floating neutral. Thanks
Maybe you can shed some light for me on setting up the ground connect from the meter can to the cutoff switch? The power company wired the meter with the usual two hots and neutral. Then they wired the meter can to ground and on their installed ground rod. I have to install the disconnect. They require ground bushing to do that. My presumption is that the bushing should be inside the cutoff box on the service side of the switch. Where to I connect the grounding wires to? At a guess, I should attach the ground inside the meter can and then open a section of insulation for the ground bushing to clamp on then, from the bushing continue the ground wire to bus inside of the disconnect switch. Is the disconnect now the main panel? Do I need to continue ground from the disconnect into the conduit and the circuit panel which is now a sub-panel? I still have to install a separate ground rod for the sub-panel so I am not understanding why I would need a ground between the main and sub-panel. It's only a 24' run, underground, from the disconnect to the sub-panel so the cost not such a big deal compare the cost of the cutoff switch. Any links or recommendations you may have to offer? Thanks, enjoyed the video.
Grounding in the meter can depends on the local power company codes and rules. Some require it, where I work they do not want any new work to have grounding in the meter, or uninsulated wires. The single point ground connection where everything bonds together is either at a disconnect if there is one or the electrical panel if there is no disconnect. If you have metal conduit to the meter can then you do use bond bushing to ground to the meter can ground terminal.
i have 6 volts AC from Neutral to Ground ( ALL electrical outlets have this ) . the ground wires in the breaker panel are all tied to the breaker box via the ground bus, however the breaker box is NOT tied to the ground rod , while the Neutral is tied to the ground rod . thus neutral and ground wires are NOT tied( bonded ) together, however , the breaker panel appears to have been wired correctly . Neutral to Ground bonding is missing update june 28 , 2024 i tightened the Green Bonding Screw . return neutral bus bar now fully connects to the metal breaker box. 0 volts on ground now , perfect.
I have a question. At 9:20 into the video I see that in you have connected one of the hot wires coming from the bottom of the meter to the neutral block in addition to the neutral wire coming from the meter. Shouldn’t it be connected to the empty terminal feeding the main breaker? I can’t see how you could have 240 in the breaker panel.
@jruggle @jruggle Sir, if you don't understand the basics of Alternating Current set up, then it's probably best to leave it to a professional. Anybody who just knows the basics knows that's the neutral terminal. The wire just wasn't properly marked white by the previous installer. The hot wire is still hanging out, you just can't see it in the video.
So, all ground rods terminate at the first disconnecting means right, so the external disconnect after the meter is where they would land, and you do not need any wires coming off the ground rods going into the main panel inside the house? Or do both the disconnect and the panel need grounding electrodes ran into them?
I have a manufactured home that service is supplied from the grid via a 200 amp disconnect pedestal panel. It feeds our manufactured homes’ panel inside the house. I am running an off grid 60amp service disconnect from my shop where the solar generated split phase 240 is coming from to a sub panel I will Mount on my house where that sub panel will coexist between grid and solar power. I will be pulling my well circuit to that new sub panel from the main pedestal disconnect as well as taking my 60 amp HVAC breaker inside the house panel that serviced my HVAC in the house sub panel so I may switch between the grid and solar in the new sub panel. The HVAC will have a new 60 amp breaker in the new solar/grid sub panel. I will be installing a soft start system on the HVAC. My question is, the ground I am pulling from the shops 100 amp panel to the new solar/grid sub panel going to be bonded or separate ground and natural as you showed in this video? I look forward to your response. Your video was great and I liked how you referenced to NEC Book.
Sounds like a nice set up. To answer your question. Yes, pull a equipment grounding conductor out there with it and don't bond with the neutrals at that panel. Keep it separate. It's a sub panel. That A/C return current can properly travel back to main panel single point bond.
A minimum of 1 electrode is required. If it has a resistance to earth of 25ohms or less then you do not need a supplemental electrode. If you do need 2nd electrode it must be 6ft or more apart from 1st electrode. So its about the ohms to meet the code, not how many. Good question
@@Doomm3x Also, something else to note is that if a permit is required in your jurisdiction and the service may get an inspection by AHJ, that inspector may make you install 2 ground rods no matter what. It can depend on the inspector as well since they have the authority, so when I do some service installs I just put 2 either way.
I noticed that as well, also, he's got L1 missing on the breaker. So only half the sub-panel is energized. The "hot wire" attaching to the ground bus is his neutral but it should have had white tape to distinguish it from the other conductors.
Great video, we had this same situation on a project! Thank you for posting
This is a great video and needs to be sent to all the leads starting out. I've seen this so many times.
I agree. Very common, but the code does specify it covers single point grounding systems. Many dont understand it.
Very helpful thank you. Was unsure what did and did not need bonding.
Glad it worked out for you. Stay safe.
What happens when you wire the ground and neutral from the generator to the sub-panel. Would the neutral and ground connect to the corresponding busbars in the sub-panel? Even though the bonding is in the main disconnect? The generator has a floating neutral. Thanks
Yes, If its a sub panel they would still be separate.
Excellent video.
Maybe you can shed some light for me on setting up the ground connect from the meter can to the cutoff switch? The power company wired the meter with the usual two hots and neutral. Then they wired the meter can to ground and on their installed ground rod. I have to install the disconnect. They require ground bushing to do that. My presumption is that the bushing should be inside the cutoff box on the service side of the switch.
Where to I connect the grounding wires to? At a guess, I should attach the ground inside the meter can and then open a section of insulation for the ground bushing to clamp on then, from the bushing continue the ground wire to bus inside of the disconnect switch.
Is the disconnect now the main panel? Do I need to continue ground from the disconnect into the conduit and the circuit panel which is now a sub-panel? I still have to install a separate ground rod for the sub-panel so I am not understanding why I would need a ground between the main and sub-panel. It's only a 24' run, underground, from the disconnect to the sub-panel so the cost not such a big deal compare the cost of the cutoff switch.
Any links or recommendations you may have to offer?
Thanks, enjoyed the video.
Grounding in the meter can depends on the local power company codes and rules. Some require it, where I work they do not want any new work to have grounding in the meter, or uninsulated wires. The single point ground connection where everything bonds together is either at a disconnect if there is one or the electrical panel if there is no disconnect.
If you have metal conduit to the meter can then you do use bond bushing to ground to the meter can ground terminal.
Why is there a phillips head screw in Ckt # 1 and Ckt #3 breaker?
i have 6 volts AC from Neutral to Ground
( ALL electrical outlets have this ) .
the ground wires in the breaker panel are all
tied to the breaker box via the ground bus,
however
the breaker box is NOT tied to the ground rod ,
while the Neutral is tied to the ground rod .
thus
neutral and ground wires are NOT tied( bonded ) together,
however ,
the breaker panel appears to have been wired correctly .
Neutral to Ground bonding is missing
update june 28 , 2024
i tightened the
Green Bonding Screw .
return neutral bus bar now fully
connects to the metal breaker box.
0 volts on ground now , perfect.
I have a question. At 9:20 into the video I see that in you have connected one of the hot wires coming from the bottom of the meter to the neutral block in addition to the neutral wire coming from the meter. Shouldn’t it be connected to the empty terminal feeding the main breaker? I can’t see how you could have 240 in the breaker panel.
@jruggle @jruggle Sir, if you don't understand the basics of Alternating Current set up, then it's probably best to leave it to a professional. Anybody who just knows the basics knows that's the neutral terminal. The wire just wasn't properly marked white by the previous installer. The hot wire is still hanging out, you just can't see it in the video.
You stated before correctly before this point and elsewhere the minimum size grounding conductor, but at 2:51 and 8:00 you state "maximum" size.
So, all ground rods terminate at the first disconnecting means right, so the external disconnect after the meter is where they would land, and you do not need any wires coming off the ground rods going into the main panel inside the house? Or do both the disconnect and the panel need grounding electrodes ran into them?
@@AnonymousUser-kc9qp Just to the first disconnecting means you terminate grounding electrode conductor.
I have a manufactured home that service is supplied from the grid via a 200 amp disconnect pedestal panel. It feeds our manufactured homes’ panel inside the house. I am running an off grid 60amp service disconnect from my shop where the solar generated split phase 240 is coming from to a sub panel I will Mount on my house where that sub panel will coexist between grid and solar power. I will be pulling my well circuit to that new sub panel from the main pedestal disconnect as well as taking my 60 amp HVAC breaker inside the house panel that serviced my HVAC in the house sub panel so I may switch between the grid and solar in the new sub panel. The HVAC will have a new 60 amp breaker in the new solar/grid sub panel. I will be installing a soft start system on the HVAC. My question is, the ground I am pulling from the shops 100 amp panel to the new solar/grid sub panel going to be bonded or separate ground and natural as you showed in this video?
I look forward to your response. Your video was great and I liked how you referenced to NEC Book.
Sounds like a nice set up. To answer your question. Yes, pull a equipment grounding conductor out there with it and don't bond with the neutrals at that panel. Keep it separate. It's a sub panel. That A/C return current can properly travel back to main panel single point bond.
wow, you make it so plain. Thanks
That was part of the goal in making the video! LOL Glad it helped.
great video
It looked like there were mixed brands of breakers in that Eaton sub panel
@larrymazer Probably. I didnt install the panel. Just fixing inspection issues and safety issues on that one.
How many ground rods you need to install for 100 amp service?
A minimum of 1 electrode is required. If it has a resistance to earth of 25ohms or less then you do not need a supplemental electrode. If you do need 2nd electrode it must be 6ft or more apart from 1st electrode.
So its about the ohms to meet the code, not how many. Good question
Thank you.
@@Doomm3x Also, something else to note is that if a permit is required in your jurisdiction and the service may get an inspection by AHJ, that inspector may make you install 2 ground rods no matter what. It can depend on the inspector as well since they have the authority, so when I do some service installs I just put 2 either way.
@@33electric33 Agreed always 2 to be safe.
Love it👍
Something doesn't look right in that panel.The main panel . I noticed the main only has one leg
Those boxes are so tight I had to pull it out to show the neutrals. Installed the wire once I turned off the camera. ⚡
Thanks Sir
You have a hot wire off the load side of the meter going into the ground bar.
I noticed that as well, also, he's got L1 missing on the breaker. So only half the sub-panel is energized. The "hot wire" attaching to the ground bus is his neutral but it should have had white tape to distinguish it from the other conductors.
Not only turn off the service but lockout / tagout!
This is one they keep getting wrong in the field... Wall of shame for them this week.