I was talking with some electrician friends of mine recently and we all agree you are the man. Most of us have been watching you for years and we are still here Brother. Might not comment often but watch your channel religiously. Thank you for all that you share and we benefit hugely from!
I find him somewhat hard to follow. He knows his stuff, but his presentation is complicated by too much extra information. Like when he starts talking about a re-bar in a slab. Just stick with what you have drawn.
As a Hispanic man, and a dyslexic (a) and dyscalculic (a) learner, and as a future Electrician Helper. I appreciate this visual presentation. My brain can usually handle 5, 10, or 15 minutes of learning at a time. The graphics or visual aids really helps. Thank you brother Dustin.
Great video, Dustin! Grounding and bonding is SO IMPORTANT to understand yet so often misunderstood. I encourage anyone uncertain on this subject to read the definitions of these terms in article 100 before going through article 250. Believe me, once you understand grounding and bonding the money will come.
Awesome video. I love how this video explains the Neutral is a type of Grounded Conductor but gives clarity of how they are not every grounded conductor. This video explains what a grounding electrode conductor is and how it is different from the equipment grounding conductor. Moving on to Bonding, explaining how the Main Bonding Jumper vs the Supply side bonding jumper and how it connects to the grounding bus and the neutral bus in the panel vs the supply connecting to something metallic. All in all very good video explaing all of these terms.
The grounding electrode and grounding electrode conductor are part of one system with the main job of capping the the voltages produced from induced currents due to near by lightning (building wiring is a big inductor to emp) or inductive load switching. They also cap the voltages possible if the neutral from the transformer (really a combined neutral and grounding conductor) were to be broken. If an induced current hit an open switch, it will see that as infinite resistance and the voltage would rise until it arced over or the energy dissipated in the wire. (with electronics surge suppressors are used to open a circuit from hot to neutral at the cap limit voltage). With the grounding electrode, the size of the voltage spike on the neutral is capped by the resistive path from the building electrode and the electrode at the transformer/pole. It prevents arcing through the insulation of motor windings, but also at weaknesses in the wire insulation the could let an arc happen through something flammable and causing a fire. Then it was decided to do equipment grounding, which is another loop of wire that could develop induced current and besides bonding the neutral to the grounding electrode made the voltage potential essentially zero compared to the earth making it safe to use single pole switching on 120vac circuits.
Question: Suppose you have everything bonded together and a fault happens on your meter... Which is before your breakers. Is there a breaker on the supply side near the utility Transformer that will clear that fault?
Great video, jumped around but I was able to follow. Helped me affirm my solar bonding situation from my solar inveterate main panel to my house via a disconnect! Which was where my question lied, Thank you sir!!
Hey man. This is so helpful. Thank you. I am studying this topic right now and seeing your explanation of these terms really cleared up the things I’m reading about. I watch tons of your stuff and would definitely watch any expansion on grounding and bonding topics. Thanks for what you do.
i wish i worked with dustin in the field my jman gets an attitude whenever i ask something. I think literally everything i’ve learned has been watching videos on youtube thanks man
Probably has an attitude because he doesn't really understand things himself. So the attitude is a way to discourage you from asking. Find yourself someone better to learn from.
I feel u My jman didn’t “teach” me as much as just give me tasks I’ve spent hours on TH-cam to actually understand what the heck I’m actually doing and how to do it better He’s super old school so he sometimes even showed me the wrong way to do things Things that will work but potentially be dangerous
I think that’s sometimes a struggle even for Masters or JM who are really great teachers. The job site is not very conducive to learning at times. Glad you search for knowledge. I always wonder how some people never strive to learn more and get better at their job. Content just running conduit and tray forever never caring about theory.
You are excellent teacher! May I suggest you show pics of panels, meter pans, transformers, and other things that are either for intentional grounding or for lightning being forced to ground. I can see where there is a confusion between bonding jumpers (equipment, source bonding, etc.). I suggest this because visual learners may better electricians if you can show actual equipment rather than drawing lines or a board. I hope you do not mind me posing this to you. My name is Peter
My house uses a main panel and several sub panels. When I connect my generator, I isolate from the grid by throwing the main breaker at the main panel and then back feed through a sub panel in the garage. The generator indicates neutral bonded to frame. I use a 4 conductors going to the sub panel. Do I create a possible ground loop when running the generator? Everything runs back to the main panel and it all works fine - just wondering if I need to unbond the generator. Generator provides 240v 4 wire service. Thx
There is: *1)* grounding; *2)* circuit protective conductor (CPC); *3)* Equipotential bonding. These are all separate with different functions but all meet at the main grounding terminal of the system. These three use the same coloured wiring creating confusion. *Different coloured cable for each of the three functions would make matters easier.* *1). Grounding.* Connecting a system to the ground is for when there are lightning strikes and static electricity present. Lightning always wants to get to the ground, so if it hits electrical equipment it has a path to ground. *2). CPC.* is a parallel neutral (N) conductor with no current running through it in normal operation - It only protects the circuit it is in - an e.g. is a receptacle circuit. If the line (L) is in contact with the CPC for any reason, electricity runs back to the point where the CPC and N join which is before the protective device in the main panel. This will have high current, more than the rating of the circuits breaker, activating the breaker isolating the circuit. If conditions arise were, *i)* the L & N will be out of balance, or *ii)* the CPC will draw too much current, or *iii)* there is a fault condition - after the protective device, it will activate and trip isolating the circuit. *3). Equipotential bonding.* Is connecting all the extraneous metal parts of a house together, e.g., water and gas pipes - that do not carry electrical current - to the electrical ground point. This is to ensure if a metal part becomes live *all* metal parts become live to reduce/eliminate electrical potential between the metal parts. If you are holding one pipe with your right hand and another pipe with your left, both are at 0v. If one pipe become 240v and the other stays at 0v electricity will run through your body maybe killing you. If both pipes become 240v at the same time (zero potential between the two), you will not be killed.
But CPC isn’t an NEC term. I understand electricians exist outside USA but this was an NEC referencing video. I like the knowledge but feel the term adds to confusion.
@jasongillis4773 I do not see where the confusion is. *1)* grounding; *2)* circuit protective conductor (CPC); *3)* Equipotential bonding. All quite distinct. All three need clear naming - and ideally conductor colouring to visually differentiate and for understanding.
Secondary circuit very common in large warehouses. Had a situation 25 years ago, warehouse in Edison NJ, new site install, customer moves in and within a few days phone system, computer UPS, large printers started to randomly fry. XO bond jumper missing in the very large TA turned out to be the case.
So, when the equipment grounding conductor is bonded to the neutral bus bar at the service panel and there is a fault.. wouldn’t the current want to go to earth rather than back to the transformer through the neutral? Or is the resistance to earth [for that current] more than the pathway to neutral, so then it goes back to the substation through the neutral instead of back to earth?
I found this video very informative. (It clicked when you drew the multiple sub panels) I know this months old, so I hope you can see and hopefully respond. I have a new 150 amp main panel. Im getting ready to wire and after watching your video a question comes to mind. In my area we need to have a meter box with a disconnect. The one I have purchased has a 200 amp breaker/disconnect with slots for a few breakers I could use for instance for a 50 amp sub panel. So having said all that, is my main panel in the house now actually a 150 amp sub panel and the neutral bonding now would be done at 200 amp meter disconnect since it is actually a disconnect breaker box all in one?
Hi Dustin: Had to watch this video twice... um.... ok... three times... but the light bulb finally came on. Your ability to explain complex "nomenclature" and boil it down to a more digestible format (for my pea-brain) is rare. Thanks for putting all the work into making these videos.
@@darriuscole8544 yes sir..I understand that...but what if i didn't ground the nutral in transformer side and short the phase and earth in load side... Will it be a short circuit?
If the ground wire that's coming from the subpanel is connected to the neutral / ground bus bar in the service panel to complete the circuit and the fault current can get to the transformer then why does the bonding screw need to be put in.
I have service line coming in from the Meter Disconnect box with 3 conductors, Two Hots and a Neutral going into a Sub panel for the House. (I don’t know why they put the main disconnect meter box Way out at the road but nevertheless, that’s its set up.) I’m installing a Generac Transfer switch on to the sub panel feeding the house. I have been reading about separating the grounding wires from the neutral in the service panel. My question is since there isn’t a second ground going from the sub panel to the main disconnects meter should I install a grounding rod at the service panel connected straight to the grounding bus bar. Keep in mind the neutrals are bonded inside the Generac transfer switch. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
The heating elements on standard residential water heaters are 240Volt rated. The controls are 240 volt as well. No 120 volts needed, no neutral. Small 6-12 gallon water heaters like in RV or for one sink are 120 Volt elements and controls.
great vid could go on for hours about grounding bonding and neutrals, love it. Grounding electrodes and grounding electrode conductors video? primary electrode supplementary electrode.
Oh my gosh! I am having such a huge problem understanding my situation. With 1 meter and 1 panel, no problem, I get it. Here is my situation. 1 - 320 amp meter, 2 - 200 amp disconnects and 1 - 200 amp panel for metal building shop and 1 - 200 amp panel for house (yet to be built). I have photos, but I can't paste them here. I have the meter with a 200 amp disconnect on each side. These are mounted to my new shop which is a metal building. On the other side of the meter inside the shop, I have the 200 amp panel. My question is on bonding and grounding. How do I bond all the panels together and where does the GEC connect to. I know the panel inside will have a seperate grounding bus (on order), but the rest is driving me nuts and I can't find anyone with a setup like this and I don't know why because I would think it's pretty common. I have talked with the local building inspector, but he is young and I'm not sure if he really knows what he is talking about or if I'm just ignorant. Drawings of the wiring would be great if you could do that.
They're just for reducing noise on the EGC. Very sensitive electronics may sometimes benefit, but other solutions may also be needed such as proper shielding, isolation, and filtering within the equipment as well as eliminating ground loops
Since understanding the difference between all of these, I've thought that the EGC should have been called the "Equipment Fault Conductor" or something similar to make it clear that the intent of the conductor has nothing to do with grounding, but everything to do with clearing faults. Having the word "grounding" in the name just seems needlessly confusing. Code could then state that the EFC "shall be grounded".
EGCs do other things as well like clear any buildup of charges in the system or raceways. Like in some conditions like explosive areas the pipes must be grounded to prevent any static discharge which might ignite vapors. EGCs are also important when dealing with small control components and data junk because they’re all so sensitive to charges. The EGC I believe can also absorb some of the induced voltage from the other phases around it in raceways as well if I’m not mistaken.
You should do a video or two on 0-10 volt light dimming. I'm building my own home and want to use it on my LED lighting and there is VERY little on TH-cam. Just learned there are certain LED fixtures that are 0-10V controlled and also Romex with the control wires included.
QUESTION: What are your thoughts on using a bonding wire/clamps to a 10 foot ground rod or two separate 8 foot rods for a large boat and or aluminum trailer with four wheels? Would you make it worse?!?
This would essentially be equipotential bonding for the boat/trailer. You would prevent the boat/trailer from developing potential (voltage) with respect to the earth.
The system neutral is even more interesting in the distribution system… and even more critical for protection and safety. We routinely refer to the distribution system neutral as the multi-grounded neutral… it gets bonded to grounds throughout the distribution system at equipment locations. Confusion between the terms bonding and grounding also exists in distribution circles. Mitigating step and touch potential hazards is a big ordeal and bonding for the purpose of establishing an equal potential zone gets confused with grounding especially when the zone is on or under the ground… and in some situations it’s better to isolate than to bond depending on specifics. And then theres those pesky clauses in the code that demand that you bond to things in close proximity but then that just extends the hazard that also must be mitigated, so you try like hell to separate… but then sometimes there’s no room for that… and… and… and… Lots of hair pulling. Cheers!
Okay, it’s been a while since I read/heard this (so I may be wrong), but here goes anyway. It seems like somewhere, an electrician said that you should NOT bond neutral to your grounding conductor; this was because any normally functioning load, sending power back to the panel via the neutral, would also be energizing the grounding conductors through the whole system. And that would be a problem since all metallic boxes (outlet/switch boxes, junction boxes, etc) must be bonded to the grounding conductor to provide a path for fault current; if ground is bonded to neutral, and potentially energized by a running load, then that produces a shock hazard. Or am I remembering something incorrectly there?
The idea is that you shouldn't bond ground to neutral anywhere except the main bonding jumper. You need that single bond at the panel for the equipment ground to do its job. But you are correct that there should be no other ground-neutral bond, otherwise, yes, the grounding conductor that is in parallel with the neutral will carry some of the neutral current, and a hot to neutral fault can energize other grounded metal parts in affected portions of the system.
That is mostly nonsense. Sure there can be very small stray currents but no cases are energized unless the neutral breaks. Do not listen to random people. In the US system one must bond the ground and the neutral. It is not safe if you do not. There are countries where that is not done but they solve the problems with other methods, essentially house wide RCD protection.
So you have in your kitchen a GFCI receptacle, and a few feet down you have what looks like a regular receptacle, but it is connected to the GFCI. So essentially, the regular receptacle is bonded to the GFCI receptacle? It’s not that it is connected so much as it is bonded?
No, bonding refers to grounding wires. You bond metal conductors to the grounding system. Bonding is done to avoid potential differences between metal surfaces.
Many years ago, when we had a main frame computer installed at a bank , we were required to have an 'isolated ground'. Does that mean it was not bonded to the neutral and why did we need to have it?
It was bonded to the neutral at the panel, but not to any other metal parts such as boxes, enclosures, raceways, screws, the building, etc. The goal is to reduce some noise on the ground to protect sensitive equipment.
One example of when a grounded circuit conductor is not a neutral is on a 240v 3ph 3 wire delta corner grounded system. On this system only 240v is available, and there is no neutral wire. Using a multimeter you would find 240v between any pair of phases A-B, B-C, or C-A. But from each phase to ground you would have 240-0-240volts referenced to ground. But there is no neutral on a 3 wire system. This is very very rare, and even on old buildings downtown where I live, the few 240v 3ph systems there are mostly high leg open delta with 2 transformers, or in some cases with more 3 phase loads, a 3 transformer closed high leg delta.
@12:08 you cannot displace energy, you are expanding it gradience. Electricity is trying to return to its source. It will take all available pathways. Like you said the system would work just fine. I think grounding rods are silly and we are just following old ways. Love your channel
It's said that a neutral carries the in balanced load. Well, say you have a panel that has no equipment ground, only an isolated neutral bar. So you have a receptacle circuit, what if someone runs a green and white from neutral bar and a hot color from a cb to the receptacle? Lands the hot on hot screw, white on neutral screw and then bonds the ground screw with the green. Doesn't that cause a potential for arc? If worked live. Or even unplugging a cord?
grounding is for safety it connects the electrical system to the earth to protect against surges. Bonding makes sure all the metal parts in a system stay at the same voltage to prevent shocks. Neutral is part of the circuit and carries current back to the source. Grounding and bonding are more about safety, while neutral is about the circuit working properly.
Not an electrician, but a 15 amp circuit should have 80% max load, so that would be 12 amps. When a device starts up there is a current spike to power things up, then it levels off to it's rating. It can trip the breaker sometimes when starting. Look at the amperage rating on your compressor, and see if there are any other receptacles with plugged in appliances, etc. and remove them if possible to lower the total branch circuit amperage. All the amperage combined should ideally be below 12 A. You may need new higher gauge wiring (safety concern) run to the outlet and a new circuit breaker. There are other possibilities, more difficult to trouble shoot and beyond explaining on a YT comment, but the above is the most likely. Your electrician will let you know what needs to be done, it is not about you asking him what to do.
12:10 important to note that the grounding electrodes generally don't dissipate enough energy to fully protect from faults. For instance, if you ran an EGC directly to a ground rod, it would do almost nothing to clear a ground fault.
Correct. Mike Holt has discussed this at length. He even filmed an experiment where he drove a ground rod to NEC specs and then ran a fault current through it. The rod did not trip a standard 15 amp breaker. It won't because it was never intended to do so. NEC doesn't require ground rods for fault clearing. They require them more for quality of life things (like giving static buildup a place to go). This doesn't matter for most home uses, but it could in sensitive industrial systems.
v dope Can anyone weigh in on... say I'm doing low volt shit and my secondary bus bar eventually goes to the PBB. (The primary bus bar that I assume is connected to neutral as well as the grounding rod). I suppose that whatever energy (static or whatever) builds on my system just goes to the rod?
I was talking with some electrician friends of mine recently and we all agree you are the man. Most of us have been watching you for years and we are still here Brother. Might not comment often but watch your channel religiously. Thank you for all that you share and we benefit hugely from!
I find him somewhat hard to follow. He knows his stuff, but his presentation is complicated by too much extra information. Like when he starts talking about a re-bar in a slab. Just stick with what you have drawn.
As a Hispanic man, and a dyslexic (a) and dyscalculic (a) learner, and as a future Electrician Helper. I appreciate this visual presentation. My brain can usually handle 5, 10, or 15 minutes of learning at a time. The graphics or visual aids really helps. Thank you brother Dustin.
Great video, Dustin! Grounding and bonding is SO IMPORTANT to understand yet so often misunderstood. I encourage anyone uncertain on this subject to read the definitions of these terms in article 100 before going through article 250. Believe me, once you understand grounding and bonding the money will come.
glad my instructor shared this video, helped a great deal when i was confused about a number of things
so thankful my instructor shared this video, helped clear up a lot of my confusion
Glad we received this assignment. very informative video about grounding and bonding
Awesome video. I love how this video explains the Neutral is a type of Grounded Conductor but gives clarity of how they are not every grounded conductor. This video explains what a grounding electrode conductor is and how it is different from the equipment grounding conductor. Moving on to Bonding, explaining how the Main Bonding Jumper vs the Supply side bonding jumper and how it connects to the grounding bus and the neutral bus in the panel vs the supply connecting to something metallic. All in all very good video explaing all of these terms.
This video was very informative and instructive and definitely cleared up alot of my questions about bonding grounding and neutrals .
Great video! Definitely cleared up the separation of conductors and electrodes.
this was a very informative video. coming from someone who wants to better understand this topic, i appreciate these videos from you.
You are most definitely the best at explaining things so it is easy to understand
The grounding electrode and grounding electrode conductor are part of one system with the main job of capping the the voltages produced from induced currents due to near by lightning (building wiring is a big inductor to emp) or inductive load switching. They also cap the voltages possible if the neutral from the transformer (really a combined neutral and grounding conductor) were to be broken. If an induced current hit an open switch, it will see that as infinite resistance and the voltage would rise until it arced over or the energy dissipated in the wire. (with electronics surge suppressors are used to open a circuit from hot to neutral at the cap limit voltage). With the grounding electrode, the size of the voltage spike on the neutral is capped by the resistive path from the building electrode and the electrode at the transformer/pole. It prevents arcing through the insulation of motor windings, but also at weaknesses in the wire insulation the could let an arc happen through something flammable and causing a fire.
Then it was decided to do equipment grounding, which is another loop of wire that could develop induced current and besides bonding the neutral to the grounding electrode made the voltage potential essentially zero compared to the earth making it safe to use single pole switching on 120vac circuits.
Question: Suppose you have everything bonded together and a fault happens on your meter... Which is before your breakers. Is there a breaker on the supply side near the utility Transformer that will clear that fault?
Great video, jumped around but I was able to follow. Helped me affirm my solar bonding situation from my solar inveterate main panel to my house via a disconnect! Which was where my question lied, Thank you sir!!
Hey man. This is so helpful. Thank you. I am studying this topic right now and seeing your explanation of these terms really cleared up the things I’m reading about. I watch tons of your stuff and would definitely watch any expansion on grounding and bonding topics. Thanks for what you do.
Discord 😊
Discord
Yes!!! Great stuff! Love the channel and love the way you simplify stuff. Thanks man!
i wish i worked with dustin in the field my jman gets an attitude whenever i ask something. I think literally everything i’ve learned has been watching videos on youtube thanks man
Probably has an attitude because he doesn't really understand things himself. So the attitude is a way to discourage you from asking.
Find yourself someone better to learn from.
I feel u
My jman didn’t “teach” me as much as just give me tasks
I’ve spent hours on TH-cam to actually understand what the heck I’m actually doing and how to do it better
He’s super old school so he sometimes even showed me the wrong way to do things
Things that will work but potentially be dangerous
I think that’s sometimes a struggle even for Masters or JM who are really great teachers. The job site is not very conducive to learning at times. Glad you search for knowledge. I always wonder how some people never strive to learn more and get better at their job. Content just running conduit and tray forever never caring about theory.
Great vid, definitely a cleared up my questions about bonding and grounding. Student at Tulsa Welding School.
You are excellent teacher! May I suggest you show pics of panels, meter pans, transformers, and other things that are either for intentional grounding or for lightning being forced to ground. I can see where there is a confusion between bonding jumpers (equipment, source bonding, etc.). I suggest this because visual learners may better electricians if you can show actual equipment rather than drawing lines or a board. I hope you do not mind me posing this to you. My name is Peter
So if my kids misbehave, am i grounding or are they grounded? And what if my wife remains neutral in the situation?
My house uses a main panel and several sub panels. When I connect my generator, I isolate from the grid by throwing the main breaker at the main panel and then back feed through a sub panel in the garage. The generator indicates neutral bonded to frame. I use a 4 conductors going to the sub panel. Do I create a possible ground loop when running the generator? Everything runs back to the main panel and it all works fine - just wondering if I need to unbond the generator. Generator provides 240v 4 wire service. Thx
Thank you for the information , Very helpful!
who else has to leave a comment for a trade school assignment?
Thanks for a simple explanation
this was good information to know how to ground your grounded conducted to understand the process
Your explanations are brilliant , very grateful for the knowledge
Such a great teacher!! Love your videos! Thank you 🙏
Why don’t main bonding jumpers energize the ground bar via the neutral?
Should I be getting continuity between the neutral bus’s-bar and ground buss bar/ metal enclosure in a sub panel?
Yes
Thank you Dustin Brother
There is:
*1)* grounding;
*2)* circuit protective conductor (CPC);
*3)* Equipotential bonding.
These are all separate with different functions but all meet at the main grounding terminal of the system. These three use the same coloured wiring creating confusion. *Different coloured cable for each of the three functions would make matters easier.*
*1). Grounding.* Connecting a system to the ground is for when there are lightning strikes and static electricity present. Lightning always wants to get to the ground, so if it hits electrical equipment it has a path to ground.
*2). CPC.* is a parallel neutral (N) conductor with no current running through it in normal operation - It only protects the circuit it is in - an e.g. is a receptacle circuit. If the line (L) is in contact with the CPC for any reason, electricity runs back to the point where the CPC and N join which is before the protective device in the main panel. This will have high current, more than the rating of the circuits breaker, activating the breaker isolating the circuit. If conditions arise were, *i)* the L & N will be out of balance, or *ii)* the CPC will draw too much current, or *iii)* there is a fault condition - after the protective device, it will activate and trip isolating the circuit.
*3). Equipotential bonding.* Is connecting all the extraneous metal parts of a house together, e.g., water and gas pipes - that do not carry electrical current - to the electrical ground point. This is to ensure if a metal part becomes live *all* metal parts become live to reduce/eliminate electrical potential between the metal parts. If you are holding one pipe with your right hand and another pipe with your left, both are at 0v. If one pipe become 240v and the other stays at 0v electricity will run through your body maybe killing you. If both pipes become 240v at the same time (zero potential between the two), you will not be killed.
But CPC isn’t an NEC term. I understand electricians exist outside USA but this was an NEC referencing video. I like the knowledge but feel the term adds to confusion.
@jasongillis4773
I do not see where the confusion is.
*1)* grounding;
*2)* circuit protective conductor (CPC);
*3)* Equipotential bonding.
All quite distinct. All three need clear naming - and ideally conductor colouring to visually differentiate and for understanding.
Great job...and Yes, it gets very confusing when explaining it to someone...
Secondary circuit very common in large warehouses. Had a situation 25 years ago, warehouse in Edison NJ, new site install, customer moves in and within a few days phone system, computer UPS, large printers started to randomly fry. XO bond jumper missing in the very large TA turned out to be the case.
So, when the equipment grounding conductor is bonded to the neutral bus bar at the service panel and there is a fault.. wouldn’t the current want to go to earth rather than back to the transformer through the neutral? Or is the resistance to earth [for that current] more than the pathway to neutral, so then it goes back to the substation through the neutral instead of back to earth?
I found this video very informative. (It clicked when you drew the multiple sub panels)
I know this months old, so I hope you can see and hopefully respond. I have a new 150 amp main panel. Im getting ready to wire and after watching your video a question comes to mind. In my area we need to have a meter box with a disconnect. The one I have purchased has a 200 amp breaker/disconnect with slots for a few breakers I could use for instance for a 50 amp sub panel. So having said all that, is my main panel in the house now actually a 150 amp sub panel and the neutral bonding now would be done at 200 amp meter disconnect since it is actually a disconnect breaker box all in one?
Thank you for the video, this helped me.
Can you please tell me what whiteboard you are using
Hi Dustin: Had to watch this video twice... um.... ok... three times... but the light bulb finally came on. Your ability to explain complex "nomenclature" and boil it down to a more digestible format (for my pea-brain) is rare. Thanks for putting all the work into making these videos.
Great video very helpful
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Hope to keep seeing your content.
most misunderstood topic. your video is great🎉
The intro was super clean
Thanks a lot man you really help me with your explacations. GOOD JOB !!
Thank you for the simple explanations
Hi sir...just a doubt.. If the transformer side nutral is not grounded, will the earth work as return path in equipment side...
NO! The earth is never acceptable as a return path.
@@darriuscole8544 yes sir..I understand that...but what if i didn't ground the nutral in transformer side and short the phase and earth in load side... Will it be a short circuit?
What is the smallest wires can used in light fixture? In nyc
Good information
Are there different ways to bond ?
Excellent work. Thank you!
Great Video!
Do a video on last/first point of disconnect for secondary power sources.
If the ground wire that's coming from the subpanel is connected to the neutral / ground bus bar in the service panel to complete the circuit and the fault current can get to the transformer then why does the bonding screw need to be put in.
Excellent info ⚡
I have service line coming in from the Meter Disconnect box with 3 conductors, Two Hots and a Neutral going into a Sub panel for the House. (I don’t know why they put the main disconnect meter box Way out at the road but nevertheless, that’s its set up.) I’m installing a Generac Transfer switch on to the sub panel feeding the house. I have been reading about separating the grounding wires from the neutral in the service panel. My question is since there isn’t a second ground going from the sub panel to the main disconnects meter should I install a grounding rod at the service panel connected straight to the grounding bus bar. Keep in mind the neutrals are bonded inside the Generac transfer switch. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hey Justin. Why dont an electric water heater need a neutral? But needs 2 hot wires?
The heating elements on standard residential water heaters are 240Volt rated. The controls are 240 volt as well. No 120 volts needed, no neutral. Small 6-12 gallon water heaters like in RV or for one sink are 120 Volt elements and controls.
Great video clip. Thank you!
Love your content.Very knowledgeable
I appreciate your channel
Question for ya.
Would removing a section of copper piping and replacing it with pex eliminate the bonding/grounding of the house?
very nice explanation. thank you
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
great vid could go on for hours about grounding bonding and neutrals, love it. Grounding electrodes and grounding electrode conductors video? primary electrode supplementary electrode.
very good video
Oh my gosh! I am having such a huge problem understanding my situation. With 1 meter and 1 panel, no problem, I get it. Here is my situation. 1 - 320 amp meter, 2 - 200 amp disconnects and 1 - 200 amp panel for metal building shop and 1 - 200 amp panel for house (yet to be built). I have photos, but I can't paste them here. I have the meter with a 200 amp disconnect on each side. These are mounted to my new shop which is a metal building. On the other side of the meter inside the shop, I have the 200 amp panel. My question is on bonding and grounding. How do I bond all the panels together and where does the GEC connect to. I know the panel inside will have a seperate grounding bus (on order), but the rest is driving me nuts and I can't find anyone with a setup like this and I don't know why because I would think it's pretty common. I have talked with the local building inspector, but he is young and I'm not sure if he really knows what he is talking about or if I'm just ignorant. Drawings of the wiring would be great if you could do that.
Please do a video explaining the real need for IG outlets.
Isolated ground outlets / orange outlets
They're just for reducing noise on the EGC. Very sensitive electronics may sometimes benefit, but other solutions may also be needed such as proper shielding, isolation, and filtering within the equipment as well as eliminating ground loops
Hey, Electrician U, you should gives us tour of all your Electrical Books.
Extremely helpful video. Thanks!
Since understanding the difference between all of these, I've thought that the EGC should have been called the "Equipment Fault Conductor" or something similar to make it clear that the intent of the conductor has nothing to do with grounding, but everything to do with clearing faults. Having the word "grounding" in the name just seems needlessly confusing. Code could then state that the EFC "shall be grounded".
I think this is a great idea! 👍
Not a good idea.. there are other reasons for using the grounding conductor, such as to divert overvoltages in a surge protector.
The EGC is only helpful in clearing some faults. It does not protect against all faults, such as arc faults, high impedance junctions, and so on.
EGCs do other things as well like clear any buildup of charges in the system or raceways. Like in some conditions like explosive areas the pipes must be grounded to prevent any static discharge which might ignite vapors. EGCs are also important when dealing with small control components and data junk because they’re all so sensitive to charges. The EGC I believe can also absorb some of the induced voltage from the other phases around it in raceways as well if I’m not mistaken.
its like a redundancy. its like having an extra off button a hardware off button.
As always great job. (Except for the parallel Neutral from Meter)
Thank you again brother
What about running a separate ground rod for a sub panel in a detached garage?
Nothing wrong with that.
Lightning protection. It is required.
Watched it 3 times. Did you do it in one take? Or do you have an Oscar level video editor? Wow.
You should do a video or two on 0-10 volt light dimming. I'm building my own home and want to use it on my LED lighting and there is VERY little on TH-cam. Just learned there are certain LED fixtures that are 0-10V controlled and also Romex with the control wires included.
Good suggestion
Thanks for explaining. Love your videos.
Thank you, I have learned a lot.
Boy You made that clear! thanks....
Why is it no possible to have ground and neutral in same bar in subpanels?
QUESTION: What are your thoughts on using a bonding wire/clamps to a 10 foot ground rod or two separate 8 foot rods for a large boat and or aluminum trailer with four wheels? Would you make it worse?!?
This would essentially be equipotential bonding for the boat/trailer. You would prevent the boat/trailer from developing potential (voltage) with respect to the earth.
Well explained.
I learned more here than a $150 Grounding and Bonding Class. 🙃
So confused……do you have a vid where you start from the beginning, like Genesis? 😂
The system neutral is even more interesting in the distribution system… and even more critical for protection and safety.
We routinely refer to the distribution system neutral as the multi-grounded neutral… it gets bonded to grounds throughout the distribution system at equipment locations. Confusion between the terms bonding and grounding also exists in distribution circles. Mitigating step and touch potential hazards is a big ordeal and bonding for the purpose of establishing an equal potential zone gets confused with grounding especially when the zone is on or under the ground… and in some situations it’s better to isolate than to bond depending on specifics. And then theres those pesky clauses in the code that demand that you bond to things in close proximity but then that just extends the hazard that also must be mitigated, so you try like hell to separate… but then sometimes there’s no room for that… and… and… and…
Lots of hair pulling.
Cheers!
Okay, it’s been a while since I read/heard this (so I may be wrong), but here goes anyway. It seems like somewhere, an electrician said that you should NOT bond neutral to your grounding conductor; this was because any normally functioning load, sending power back to the panel via the neutral, would also be energizing the grounding conductors through the whole system. And that would be a problem since all metallic boxes (outlet/switch boxes, junction boxes, etc) must be bonded to the grounding conductor to provide a path for fault current; if ground is bonded to neutral, and potentially energized by a running load, then that produces a shock hazard. Or am I remembering something incorrectly there?
The idea is that you shouldn't bond ground to neutral anywhere except the main bonding jumper. You need that single bond at the panel for the equipment ground to do its job.
But you are correct that there should be no other ground-neutral bond, otherwise, yes, the grounding conductor that is in parallel with the neutral will carry some of the neutral current, and a hot to neutral fault can energize other grounded metal parts in affected portions of the system.
That is mostly nonsense. Sure there can be very small stray currents but no cases are energized unless the neutral breaks. Do not listen to random people. In the US system one must bond the ground and the neutral. It is not safe if you do not.
There are countries where that is not done but they solve the problems with other methods, essentially house wide RCD protection.
So you have in your kitchen a GFCI receptacle, and a few feet down you have what looks like a regular receptacle, but it is connected to the GFCI. So essentially, the regular receptacle is bonded to the GFCI receptacle? It’s not that it is connected so much as it is bonded?
No, bonding refers to grounding wires. You bond metal conductors to the grounding system. Bonding is done to avoid potential differences between metal surfaces.
Many years ago, when we had a main frame computer installed at a bank , we were required to have an 'isolated ground'. Does that mean it was not bonded to the neutral and why did we need to have it?
It was bonded to the neutral at the panel, but not to any other metal parts such as boxes, enclosures, raceways, screws, the building, etc. The goal is to reduce some noise on the ground to protect sensitive equipment.
@@benchociej2435 Thank you as I always wanted to know.
Good information well done 👍🏻
One example of when a grounded circuit conductor is not a neutral is on a 240v 3ph 3 wire delta corner grounded system. On this system only 240v is available, and there is no neutral wire. Using a multimeter you would find 240v between any pair of phases A-B, B-C, or C-A. But from each phase to ground you would have 240-0-240volts referenced to ground. But there is no neutral on a 3 wire system. This is very very rare, and even on old buildings downtown where I live, the few 240v 3ph systems there are mostly high leg open delta with 2 transformers, or in some cases with more 3 phase loads, a 3 transformer closed high leg delta.
This guys command of the codebook is impressive
@12:08 you cannot displace energy, you are expanding it gradience. Electricity is trying to return to its source. It will take all available pathways. Like you said the system would work just fine. I think grounding rods are silly and we are just following old ways. Love your channel
It's said that a neutral carries the in balanced load. Well, say you have a panel that has no equipment ground, only an isolated neutral bar. So you have a receptacle circuit, what if someone runs a green and white from neutral bar and a hot color from a cb to the receptacle? Lands the hot on hot screw, white on neutral screw and then bonds the ground screw with the green. Doesn't that cause a potential for arc? If worked live. Or even unplugging a cord?
grounding is for safety it connects the electrical system to the earth to protect against surges. Bonding makes sure all the metal parts in a system stay at the same voltage to prevent shocks. Neutral is part of the circuit and carries current back to the source. Grounding and bonding are more about safety, while neutral is about the circuit working properly.
I have a commercial air compressor, trips my 15 amp circuit outlets. What should I ask an electrician to do?
Not an electrician, but a 15 amp circuit should have 80% max load, so that would be 12 amps. When a device starts up there is a current spike to power things up, then it levels off to it's rating. It can trip the breaker sometimes when starting. Look at the amperage rating on your compressor, and see if there are any other receptacles with plugged in appliances, etc. and remove them if possible to lower the total branch circuit amperage. All the amperage combined should ideally be below 12 A. You may need new higher gauge wiring (safety concern) run to the outlet and a new circuit breaker. There are other possibilities, more difficult to trouble shoot and beyond explaining on a YT comment, but the above is the most likely.
Your electrician will let you know what needs to be done, it is not about you asking him what to do.
Can you make a video about smoke detector requirement in residential please?
12:10 important to note that the grounding electrodes generally don't dissipate enough energy to fully protect from faults. For instance, if you ran an EGC directly to a ground rod, it would do almost nothing to clear a ground fault.
Correct. Mike Holt has discussed this at length. He even filmed an experiment where he drove a ground rod to NEC specs and then ran a fault current through it. The rod did not trip a standard 15 amp breaker. It won't because it was never intended to do so. NEC doesn't require ground rods for fault clearing. They require them more for quality of life things (like giving static buildup a place to go). This doesn't matter for most home uses, but it could in sensitive industrial systems.
How goes a ground identify itself?
so helpful!
Now I understand the purpose of jumpers
I wish you were my mentor. I need you in my life right now.
v dope
Can anyone weigh in on... say I'm doing low volt shit and my secondary bus bar eventually goes to the PBB. (The primary bus bar that I assume is connected to neutral as well as the grounding rod).
I suppose that whatever energy (static or whatever) builds on my system just goes to the rod?
Why do we have grounding rods, "intentionally ground the system"?