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I'm thinking about making a company with my brother. We're both electricians and it seems like there's a pretty hard cap or ceiling on how much you'll make. My brother's been promoted to a foreman, running his own site and he's only making a couple more dollars an hour than everyone else but the responsibility is all on him for the site to run well. Why not just run your own company at that point and make all the profit and run it how you like? At least that's what I'm thinking. I'm pretty conscientious, hard working, and ambitious, but it seems these traits aren't really rewarded well by working for someone else.

Wasn't that a split plug? Possibly switched? Did you end up just pig tailing the wires?

I have a manufactured home that service is supplied from the grid via a 200 amp disconnect pedestal panel. It feeds our manufactured homes’ panel inside the house. I am running an off grid 60amp service disconnect from my shop where the solar generated split phase 240 is coming from to a sub panel I will Mount on my house where that sub panel will coexist between grid and solar power. I will be pulling my well circuit to that new sub panel from the main pedestal disconnect as well as taking my 60 amp HVAC breaker inside the house panel that serviced my HVAC in the house sub panel so I may switch between the grid and solar in the new sub panel. The HVAC will have a new 60 amp breaker in the new solar/grid sub panel. I will be installing a soft start system on the HVAC. My question is, the ground I am pulling from the shops 100 amp panel to the new solar/grid sub panel going to be bonded or separate ground and natural as you showed in this video? I look forward to your response. Your video was great and I liked how you referenced to NEC Book.

Range needs gfci protection buddy

My xc90 goes on limb mode..

Great video man! I'm currently a senior in college in my last semester but recently have been looking into being a self-employed electrician instead of using my degree. This video confirmed my intuition. Thank you!

Not to be a nag or anything, but I came here because the description says installing an outlet box "IN" a block wall, not "ON" one.

Great video… do you have any advice to new contractors on getting customers, getting your name out, etc?

Not only turn off the service but lockout / tagout!

Love it👍

Great video race plays a part also

Can you check the amperage when you clamp on the cable that is plugged in to a household electrical receptacle? Thanks.

Why is there a phillips head screw in Ckt # 1 and Ckt #3 breaker?

The AC wiring needs to be in a j box but the transformer itself shouldn’t be enclosed. It generates heat and needs air circulation.

Your video says “IN a concrete wall” not “On”

Thanks Sir

That’s great. But my problem is bringing the wires into the chime box from the wires outlet hole in the wall. How do I bring the wires from behind the chime into the box? Everything I’ve tried, once I put the cover back on in position then one or more of the wires end up lying against one or the other chime mechanisms and mutes it.

You have a hot wire off the load side of the meter going into the ground bar.

So, all ground rods terminate at the first disconnecting means right, so the external disconnect after the meter is where they would land, and you do not need any wires coming off the ground rods going into the main panel inside the house? Or do both the disconnect and the panel need grounding electrodes ran into them?

Smart! (Thanks!)

Based off the amperage of each leg you measured 1 120v leg 22 amps 2nd 120v leg 27.5 amps your house was drawing 5,940 watts

Something doesn't look right in that panel.The main panel . I noticed the main only has one leg

What happens when you wire the ground and neutral from the generator to the sub-panel. Would the neutral and ground connect to the corresponding busbars in the sub-panel? Even though the bonding is in the main disconnect? The generator has a floating neutral. Thanks

I have a question. At 9:20 into the video I see that in you have connected one of the hot wires coming from the bottom of the meter to the neutral block in addition to the neutral wire coming from the meter. Shouldn’t it be connected to the empty terminal feeding the main breaker? I can’t see how you could have 240 in the breaker panel.

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Bro you over complicated two wires

I know its an old post, but pencil and paper would make things look easer. (Kinder garden level schematic) Thanks for the video

It looked like there were mixed brands of breakers in that Eaton sub panel

Nice vid & interesting finder.

This is a great video and needs to be sent to all the leads starting out. I've seen this so many times.

This is one they keep getting wrong in the field... Wall of shame for them this week.

what do you do for health insurance?

Do you add both of the hots together after you check the amp draw with your amp clamp?

This would be infinitely more useful without a second doorbell in the circuit.

How many ground rods you need to install for 100 amp service?

I thought it was simple.

You stated before correctly before this point and elsewhere the minimum size grounding conductor, but at 2:51 and 8:00 you state "maximum" size.

I've driven nothing but Volvos for decades. They all have the same problem...overheating electrical components, mainly relays and computers. I learned how to take relays out, check out the solder joins for cracks, retouch them, take the covers off carefully and drill them full of holes, and put them back. This way the trapped heat can escape. I don't buy new ones unless I have to. I also pull out fuses and sand them off, they can be full of corrosion. If you are running A/C, you are making engine run harder and making it overheat since it has to turn compressor as well. I usually lower the windows and let the outside air in. You would think that by now Volvo would fix this, but they won't.

great video

This was pretty good, but you're really not twisting those wire nuts on firmly enough. You're supposed to keep twisting until it causes the wires to twist around each other for an inch or two outside of the wire nut (most manufactuerers' instructions will say this). That's how you know it's on firmly enough, is making good contact with the wires, so it won't loosen or come off over time. (Or just use WAGOs (or the newer similar connectors from IDEAL).. they work just as well and are much harder to screw up, in general, plus they're easier to work with if somebody needs to open it up and change something later.) Also, per code, you need to fasten those wires down (using appropriate wire staples/clips) within 6 inches of that box (12 inches if you're using a box with actual clamps, but that one doesn't have any).

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i have 6 volts AC from Neutral to Ground ( ALL electrical outlets have this ) . the ground wires in the breaker panel are all tied to the breaker box via the ground bus, however the breaker box is NOT tied to the ground rod , while the Neutral is tied to the ground rod . thus neutral and ground wires are NOT tied( bonded ) together, however , the breaker panel appears to have been wired correctly . Neutral to Ground bonding is missing update june 28 , 2024 i tightened the Green Bonding Screw . return neutral bus bar now fully connects to the metal breaker box. 0 volts on ground now , perfect.

How much is income to you after overhead?

Easy money. Where are you located?

Maybe you can shed some light for me on setting up the ground connect from the meter can to the cutoff switch? The power company wired the meter with the usual two hots and neutral. Then they wired the meter can to ground and on their installed ground rod. I have to install the disconnect. They require ground bushing to do that. My presumption is that the bushing should be inside the cutoff box on the service side of the switch. Where to I connect the grounding wires to? At a guess, I should attach the ground inside the meter can and then open a section of insulation for the ground bushing to clamp on then, from the bushing continue the ground wire to bus inside of the disconnect switch. Is the disconnect now the main panel? Do I need to continue ground from the disconnect into the conduit and the circuit panel which is now a sub-panel? I still have to install a separate ground rod for the sub-panel so I am not understanding why I would need a ground between the main and sub-panel. It's only a 24' run, underground, from the disconnect to the sub-panel so the cost not such a big deal compare the cost of the cutoff switch. Any links or recommendations you may have to offer? Thanks, enjoyed the video.

Great video. Real world stuff. I'm just about to start my own one man electrical contracting business and of course my biggest worry is pricing. So if you have any advice I'd love to hear it. Even if you could break down how you priced these jobs. Thanks again.

wow, you make it so plain. Thanks

I’m fucking lost

This guy sounds like he’s confused himself

Is there a transformer that is for a house that has six doorbell chimes