ENGIN BUILD DIY 345 IH (part 1 of 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.พ. 2018
- Part 1 of 2Complete step by step start to finish rebuilding and transplanting a 1970 345 Load Star V8 into a 1976 196 4cyl Scout!
Everything you need to know, head rebuilding at home, valve lapping, flex hones, tappets, oil pumps, cam bearings...
Even for other brand engine builds, just check your manual for the different numbers... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I have a 392 on the stand, what i would do different, well i thought i was going to tear the truck down by now and get a 3 angle valve job and shave the heads like i said in the video, when i lapped the valves i was at the limit on 2 of them. Their still fine, but what did fail and i failed to show in video,
is after about a year and half of daily driver i started to get the puff of smoke on hot start, i should have replaced the valve guides.
You can check them easily by putting some oil and putting your over the hole and the valve should should slowly fall out while feeling suction on your finger.
So other than that, the only thing i didnt do that you can, is a cam, balance the crank and rods, install a pcv catch can, and the baha scout oil drain back lines tapped into the heads, but honestly after polishing the drain holes and the valley casting, i dont have an issue, i rev higher for longer now b4 the oil starve issue with these engines being on an angle and the front holes not realky draining much...
Also, i would go with the dual point distributor, ( thats because im a nut, and the dual points give a dual spark, now its not a high rev power plant so why? and why tell you when sss has only a couple left lol,
Well you can put a switch on the points so you have a choice. You set it so you have the first second spark points timed for regular gas. Then you can have a second tank of race gas, when you switch to race gas, you flip the switch and turn the retarded first set of points back on for dual spark. This effectively advances/retards ignition with the flio if a switch.
See the higher test fuel, the slower and yet more powerful explosion. Si the higher octane the more you need to retard the spark.
Low test makes a quick pop, high test makes a slow powerful woooomph. And it smells great and makes a cool willie wonka gurgling sound in the exhaust lol,
At first i was against the non vac advance, because on a regular engine your gonna have it over advanced under 3k rpm. Well we can only safely rev to 4400 depending on model.... so we have full hp at about 1100. We can set a mechaniczl distrubutor to cover the whole powerband.....
But my dreams are bigger than my wallet lol
Honestly, i can put it in 4 high, spin the tires and the clutch in any gear just from what i did, and i have the wrong throttle linkage, i have never been able to give it more than 3/4 throttle, so its nit like im gonna enter it in a tractor pull it has morr power than it csn handle, it will jump and skip all over with an off road suspension.....
Just rebuilt my 1977 Traveler 345 V8 with auto transmission following your videos. Thank you. You saved me a lot of time and helped me not make too many mistakes. This was the first engine I have ever completely rebuilt and was a necessity as my head gasket was blown and one piston had chipped. Fortunately I caught it early before it seized. I used oven cleaner, brakleen and dawn soap to clean the parts. I invested on a good set of grinding bits and bore brushes. I replaced the pistons and rings - pressing on the pins myself using a jig to make sure they were centered, honed the cylinders, polished and lapped the valves, replaced the valve springs, new cam , lifters and bearings. All gaskets and seals replaced. I even ground and polished the intake and exhaust ports following your advice. Everything was done using normal tools except for a borrowed cam bearing installation tool and cylinder hone. I opted to depart from the classic IH red for a gloss black paint job with stainless screws. I painted the fan IH red and will eventually go for billet aluminum pulleys and a shiny chrome alternator. Black looks great! I did the entire rebuild on my back porch as I live in an apartment. I carted it in through my living room on a gorilla wagon yard cart. My neighbors did not know what to think as I hauled it in through the front door. Apparently, not everyone has a V8 powered yard cart! I used an engine stand for the rebuild and when it was back together I built an engine run stand out of 4x4s and angle iron which allowed me to run the engine outside of the truck. My run stand had a small gas tank, gauges and a stand for the radiator. It was pretty simple to build but next time I would use 4x6s instead of 4x4s. The 4x4 was the perfect width between the front engine mount and the bell housing holes for the rear engine mount. The hard part was drilling the holes in the angle iron. The fully dressed 345 is a heavy beast and the 4x6s would give more strength to the stand. I would also put wheels on the run stand to make it easy to move. With the run stand I was able to run the engine, set the timing and check for leaks before I installed the engine. Good thing as my rear seal leaked. I replaced it with a different brand and the leak was solved. That would have been frustrating to have installed the engine and have had to remove it again. Also I had steam coming out of my exhaust. I went back to your videos and saw that I had installed the manifold metal gasket dry (like the manufacturer recommended). Following your video, I added gasket material around the exhaust and coolant ports and the leak was sealed - no more steam. My neighbors appreciated the thunderous sound of a big block V8 without exhaust and came around to see what was shaking the paint off the walls! Amazingly enough it started right away and was easy to tune. I loaded the fully dressed V8 back on the wagon and carted it through my living room again. I installed in the truck and have finally put it all together. The mufflers quiet the engine considerably. I will eventually put headers on it and a resonator (Cherry Bomb) to get some of the sound back. I should start my test drive and 500 mile break in tomorrow but it runs great sitting in the driveway. Thanks again for your videos! Your work lives on in my truck.
gonna wanna keep checking the tuning the carb and advance with the vacuum gauge, once the rings finally seat themselves on that high nickel big block, your gonna your gonna tune it, and its gonna light em up on accident when you touch the pedal like your used to lmao...... and then when I got the break in oil out it ran way smoother..... I worked that bitch hard for about 4 years, not an issue. Guy hit and ran me off the highway last year, barrel flip off the edge of the road..... the entire truck was destroyed, crushed around the bucket seats, the SSS terra bar, a push bumper, and the IHPA font frame "x brace" I won at the Ohio NATS.... I just installed all of it. saved my life. the engine would have come through the firewall with out the x brace and big bumper, with out the terra bar my head would have been crushed. lap belt did its job. its like the hitchhikers guide, DONT PANIC lol or you'll break all your bones lol..... , once the suspension's torn off your just upside down again like slow motion, wondering if you get to see your family tonight lol. you could break her loose in any gear.... was hard to not chirp the tires between shifts when cops where around lol
My dad was an IH enthusiast, in the late 60s early 70s he got a 42' KB1 half ton pickup, and over the course of 10 years he restored it (we still have it). We went to antique truck shows all summer long, and as a kid growing up in the 70s I fell in love with trucks, eventually becoming a diesel mechanic in 1982, I was still in high school. We also had that same red IH pickup (67 I think). Also in 1972 we bought a brand new IH Travelall 2 wheel drive with a 345 engine, which is what I want to talk about. Because of the emissions laws then IH retarded the cam timing on the 345 and you could reset it by offsetting the cam timing mark by one tooth and have the engine run better. He also removed all the pollution components (air pump and belts) from the engine. This only applies to 72 and later models. I've done this myself for customers later when I started working as a mechanic, but to this day, I have never known anyone else that has done this.
that would be 16degrees, so if we subtract the fact that the emissions cam sprockets where 4degrees less, thats still 12 degrees advance, pushing it, but with the emissions sprocket, guess its a few degress off either way lol
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER the 345 had gear to gear timing, no sprockets or chain. I don't know what the degrees would actually be, but I think they would be less than that. I'm not sure, I haven't seen a 345 in 25 years or more. But thanks for responding, I've asked other IH enthusiast if they have ever heard of this being done but I'm still waiting. Good luck!
am a farmer w/ 73 loadstar w/ 304. am overhauling engine w/ pertronix upgrade. your videos are extremely helpful. please keep them coming
Thats awesome! I took old ones down to make them more professional, and I also have so many more waiting to find time to edit them, A lot of IH and a lot of Trans am, I got stuck with a trans am a customer walked away from, and I Filmed all the body work, panel forming, and even lead!
Ain't got a dime to toss at my Scout until I sell the TA :), but still more to upload....
Great video. Easy to understand and friendly advice. I've never had an International engine apart, but been there with other v-8s. Same protocols, and you can never use too much assembly lube. Keep up the good work
Thanks for taking the time to make this detailed video ! I wish I would have watched it BEFORE it tore down my 392. I did'nt keep things in order as I should have. Pistons were bad rusted in because there was no hood on the truck for a few years. I tore it down but made some mistakes and ruined 2 pistons. I will reference your video on the rebuild . ThankYou
yeah, I have to watch it again myself, I have a 392 on the stand now and We dont get the chance to rebuild them much anymore
Thanks, easy to follow, great video, used this video to guide me thru a 67' ih 266 v8.
awesome! I have a 304 and 392 waiting to do soon, couple things I left out like back facing the valves and shimming the rockers to compensate for any decking to avoid valve float....
Looking good. Your video came in right at nighty noodle time..
Thanks for the video!
Pontiacs have the evil port, too. Fill it with melted piston aluminum, and port the bowls of the center exhausts.
yeah yhe Uncle Tony's Garage had a video on filling them too, i was way overthinking it that i would need to bake the whole casting to temp to weld it but its not structural booger it up real slow lol The aluminum sounds like a neat trick too! giess the block off gaskets rot out in a couple years
Erik what do you suggest to clean an engine block and degrease it? Or what is your process? Thanks greatly appreciate your videos I'm doing the same thing and they are very helpful
dollar store oven cleaner , brush, and a hose, then gas works good too, final clean with lacquer thinner on anything that will be painted, also white vinegar works great to dissolve rust and neutralize the steel if needed.
I have a couple of question I have and Hough 50H payloader with and IH gas 6 cylinder. I can not find an engine number. I was wondering if you know if the 6 cylinder C-264 and and the 345 V 8 have the same bolt pattern to bolt to the bell housing. Great videos. Not allot of IH people out here.
I dont know if a tractor engine bolts to the truck bell... I can check measurements if you have yours, count the holes, distance between each, clock wise, and ill check mine...
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER Thanks for responding. I will measure them out when it dries out here. LIked the videos about the secrets of the baja engines. After 30 years my Dads 1967 1500B showed up at and auction so I bought it we got the engine running. They said the engine lost power it had collapses lifters and a couple of bent push rods. Its running!!!! Keep the content coming!!!! Thanks again!
I also rushed in and took the heads off of my 345 without keeping the pushrods and tappets organized. Can I recover from this? I’m guessing since those are the only rookie mistakes I made before finding your video that with a good cleaning/inspection of the tappets and pushrods I should be able to reinstall them with no adverse effects. Hopefully?
John b, yes the lifters do wear to the cam lobes, and the lifters actually turn in their slots so they wear evenly and not in one spot. They are slightly off center from lobe and the lifter bottoms are ground convex. You can have a machine shop resurface them and they will mate back to the lobe and spin properly.
So the issue can be if one lifter was worn into a slightly off lobe, on a different lobe, it may not spin, and will wearing out early... I’m not a gambler so I would have them resurfaced, their at a 40 inch radius if your a machinist.
Interesting. I wasn’t even thinking lifter bottom to cam lobe but that makes absolute sense. Thank you! I should be able to recover from that with a minimum out of pocket expenditure. Hmm, spinning tappets. That might be a good name for a rock band 🥴
Hey Erik, have you ever put a flywheel on a 345 that originally came with a flex plate? I’m going to do that and will be curious if I’m going to have vibration issues.
your good, same balancer is used auto or manual!
Can these engines be made to handle a Turbo? If so what mods need to be made?
the same as any turbo kit, its a blower box that bolts in line with the carb, driven by a tube coming off the exhaust, if you go on my website, www.ironhammer.info/ih there is info on it, if you really need power, they rev low, your better off with a Paxton supercharger. it bolts on the carb, cable driven blower, mount a fully on the belt, no giant blower sticking out the hood, or mechanical injection lol, and thats that, it will drink what in needs.....
Erik, how do I get in contact with you? I have a 345 that I may be looking for someone to rebuild.
th-cam.com/users/add_contact?c=iPnS_Fuu66cZ6wzYJSH6l6Kgh6v-QA friend me on youtube or facebook, I dont want to put my phone number on here lol
Try me at, two one eight - 349 - 9111
Are these IH V8s heavy engines?
biggest big block, out weighs a 454, china freight engine stands are a no go here lol
Where's your shop?
for now I am In Berwyn Ill.
I'm in Madison, WI.Could deliver the motor(s). 218 349 9111Thanks
Please set your camera down so we can follow what you are doing. With the camera moving around it’s hard to follow.
next one, to me it was more important to actually see what you will be seeing because there are some things that you just have to have a feel for thats hard to convey through a video...
next one i guess i can set one camera on a tripod and one on me...